I think you really nailed WHY we designed Warpaints Air the way that we did: to make airbrushing as easy as possible for painters of all skill levels! Glad you enjoy them!
This was a really smart move on behalf of Army Painter. I’d much rather watch a channel I know and trust give an honest endorsement of a product they use with a couple of tips and some advice thrown in, than some random sponsor I’ll never use. Hopefully some other manufacturers reach out to Uncle A and both he as a content provider and we as enthusiasts can benefit from their sponsorship of his channel.
An excellent video! I have the Warpaints Air Complete Paint Set and it is an excellent tool for the hobbyist, as you have stated in this video. It quickly became my go to paint for my airbrush and non-airbrush painting as well. I've found that when using a physical brush, I don't have to add water before painting and that speeds up my process a little. Also, these paints come with the mixing balls already added in the bottles. That's a great feature they have added to their whole line of paint sets now. It makes it so much easier to shake the paint well before use. Now to increase my airbrush skills on a regular basis by painting models each week.
I love the spray from below then above in two striking colors technique. I like to paint ethereal things a deep purple from below and a light blue from above. I think it really stands out!
I just got an airbrush and the beginner airbrush paints kit from Army Painter. I'm so excited to try this "zenithal" shading technique on some World Eaters
I’m new to airbrushing. I picked one up recently and primed and zenethal painted a handful of minis to work on this winter. I am in Wisconsin and unable to paint outside in winter
Hey man just wanted to say how much of a help your videos have been. I have gotten into painting my 3d prints and just got a decent airbrush, and I've learned a ton from your videos. Keep up the great work man 👍
Glad to know someone else who uses and enjoys the army painter air set. I have the mega set and love it. Use it in my air brush and as normal paint so I don't have to worry about thinning it down.
I recently bought a set of 57 Meeden airbrush paints for $75 Australian (about $48 American). Not only were they nice quality wise but they're also 30 ml bottles. Meeden sell good quality artists paints and I was blown away by the quality of this set. I actually use a lot of Meeden's products and they're all fantastic. Their oil paints, miniature brushes and Airbrush & Compressor kits are absolutely great.
I have become a huge fan of The Army Painter stuff in last few months and can't wait to try these out once I get a new air brush to put them through! Video was nice and informative thank you !
I dont know why painting miniatures would be different, but as an illustrator I can say that usually changing a bit the hue for shadows and highlights looks a lot better.
Couldn’t agree more, the Army Painter Airbrush paints don’t get nearly enough love. I started off with the Badger Minitaire paints and have pretty much moved completely to AP because of the quality, the colours, and the triad system. Would be great to see more videos about how you use them.
Hey. I watched your twitch stream this weekend. Even though I have built many hundreds of models, I have only rattle can primed black and never painted them. The advice on trying on a plastic spoon to practice with my airbrush sounds useful. I'm giving my cheap airbrush and compressor a shot this weekend. Wish me luck
Hey, great video as always! Two questions: 1) do you ever have any problems with your Army Painter speed paints reactivating after you shoot them through yourairbrush, and if so, how do you work around that, and 2) What airbrush do you use? Once again, thanks for another great video.
I have found that using thin layers and giving them a little extra time to dry before applying the next layer works well to stop reactivation when airbrushing. I will then leave the model to fully dry from morning to evening or overnight before applying any paint (particularly speedpaint) directly on top of that base layer using a brush and when I'm heaping a lot of speedpaint on a model, and/or I just need to get it finished fast, a couple of quick blasts of matte varnish between layers has always worked for me.
@@chiefchurpa5739 I have not yet used an airbrush to varnish as the spray can I bought when I first started using speedpaints is thankfully still going strong but when it is finally used up I will be taking full advantage of the "How to Varnish with your Airbrush" tutorial from Vince Venturella. I hope that video is useful to you if you haven't seen it already.
To get effective chromatic greys to match your base color try adding a small amount of a coplimentary color. (Somewhere oposite on the color wheel) yellow with violet etc.
Hi Adam, I saw your t-shirt, H.P. Lovecraft rules!! Thanks for this video, I'm still very afraid to use an airbrush, it intimidates me, but these new colors could be a easy way to approach it. Thanks
Army Painter made a great product in the air paints - their consistent pigmentation and 'airbrush ready' thinnness means that they are almost 'glaze ready' out of the dropper - a bit of thinning and you are off to the races.
I love this method of laying down a base colour with a beautiful, smooth gradient. But what I'd like to know, is how can I 'build' triads from any paint range/colour?!
This is timely as I'm trying to work out the best way to do my zenithal for Skaven. Black-grey-white leaves the flesh washed out if I use contrast. My idea was to use brown to bone. I know you paint Skaven. What do you think?
Really enjoyed this video. I agree with other comments about the air range being overshadowed by the Speedpaint. I get that most mini painters are also wargamers so faster is better, but I think there must be a subset of the community who paint just for the zen-of-it-all, one model at a time. I bought a few of the triads and they are a perfect fit for those of us in the slow lane. And a real confidence builder for those new to the airbrush and the color wheel.
I have had an air brush sitting in my desk drawer for several years and I want to used it but it comes down to not having an appropriate area for it and being afraid to break it while thinking. It’s good to know about AP’s air line and I’ve always been a triad painter since a learned using citadel paints. Will have to give it a go soon
ah good to know, im kinda new to airbrushing tho ive done a tonne of base coating but not much else so i'll give these a try, One thing i am struggling with is finding a good matt varnish suitable for the air brush
Thank you for the info--I have a couple of new things to try later today. (The middle/circle gradient and the anti-zenith mainly.) I have only really used the AP Air paints with my airbrush--little to no thinner as you mentioned. I have found that with the Alien/Coven/Broodmother Purples and the metallics especially I have to thin them like crazy or they do clog up my brush. Otherwise, I have no complaints with them aside for the lack of being able to get them locally as no one really carries the AP paints, and the two that do don't carry the AP Air. Now for a bit of an odd idea: I have some clear gesso that I can think down for airbrush consistency, and I am curious if I can utilize it and the base colors of the triads as a primer. I may go ahead and try it when I'm doing those techniques later.
Purples are a bit tricky as are metallics. We thinned them as much as possible and refined the pigments however purple pigments and mica by volume are just heavier. So depending on what pressure you’re pushing, you may need to thin them more but most of the paints in the range are ready to use right from the bottle.
@@TheArmyPainter I didn't think about the pigments of purple being heavier. The metallics are understandable though. I just took an empty bottle and put about half of it as water/thinner and added the color I needed. Also, thanks for replying, it helps to understand the issues with it.
@@RvnKnight fun fact: most paint companies lose money selling purple paint! Because purple pigments are purchased by volume and purple pigments are heavier than most! Which is why many brands have a limited range of purple. ;)
I am lucky to live in one of the dryest green spaces in north america: the Canadian prairies! I can prime all year long outside 'cause the cold don't bother us Canuckleheads at all, eh?
I have been mixing my paints for airbrushing for a while and am about to start a new deathguard army. Maybe i will get a few triads of these to try out and see if i like them. Thanks for the video and pointers. Always love your content.
So taking the wizard with a red cloak as an example, should you mask off everything except the cloak before laying the base color? I ran into this exact problem and didn’t mask, now I’m trying to apply flesh tones speedpaint without masking and the red undercoat was shining through ruining the flesh tone. Or should you rebase the flesh in an opaque white and then add the speed paints? Or do you just add an opaque flesh tone? The same goes for any mini wearing clothing and lots of accessories. I mean, you don’t want the entire model based in a red triad do you?
Will I need to use the airbrush medium on the Army Painter Air paints when using them through mu Cordless NO-NAME Airbrush compressor? I want to say the NI-NAME cordless sprays at a max of 20-25 PSI, but some say its more towards 20.
Hello, Thank you for your amazing videos. I have a question and would appreciate your guidance. I have an airbrush kit and want to use it for painting action figures. However, I don't have access to professional paints. I am using a water-based acrylic paint, but when I pour it into the airbrush's reservoir, no paint comes out. Air is released from the airbrush, but not the paint. The needle is clean, the airbrush is clean, and there are no blockages in the output. The needle is secured properly, and the pressure button is functioning well. When I use the same paint with a brush, despite it being water-based, it doesn't easily wash off with just water. I have to use a cloth to clean my hands when washing them. Could you please help me with this issue? Thank you!
Your airbrush might be a two-stage airbrush - many of them are. You put down to make air come out, and then you also pull back on that same button to release paint. This gives you the ability to vary how much air and how much paint you use. Also, make sure to thin your paint when you put it on the airbrush - it needs to be like skim milk in its consistency. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions Thank you so much for your response. Yes, my airbrush is two-stage. I just have one question: my paints seem to have a pigmented structure, as when they dry, it feels like there are tiny particles in them.
I just so happened to have bought that yellow triad a couple weeks ago,but notices the orange base would not feed at all through my airgun, is this common with their oranges or did I just get a dud bottle?
I bought the army painter air paint set but i mainly use them with a regular brush because the air brush is too fiddley and the air paints are already thinned down to where they flow nicely off a brush
What PSI do you generally use with Army Painter Warpaint Air? I have a cheapo airbrush (problem the first), and I sometimes get a bit of clogging/drytip unless I thin a bit (~20psi)
I really don’t get zenithal priming. It always seems that every time it’s done, it just ends up getting painted over. I DO find it necessary when using Army Painters speed paints (which I love!). They are thing enough that the zenithal priming beneath, pops through…really giving you the shadows and highlights you’d expect, without much effort at all. But! If you’re just going to apply an opaque base color on top of the zenithal…what’s the point??
15 years painting warhammer, first time using an airbrush last week, i say i do prefer a very watery thin mix, makes it easier for me to toothbrush scrub off any mistake
It was sponsored, but I don’t feel like it was an “ad” - I certainly could have taught the same effects with any airbrush paints, but the triad feature of the TAP Air paints makes it easier. Thanks for watching!
Honestly, the thing that has been scaring me the most is the fact that I have to clean the airbrush so thoroughly after each usage. At least based on the videos that i've seen so far. Is there a way around this?
Airbrushing itself is not super difficult. Just takes some experimentation and getting used to for some neat results. Working around airbrushed surfaces though, I think that's often difficult. Picking out details with a brush after the initial airbrush job can be tricky - making a mistake and getting paint on a surface we've masterfully airbrushed earlier can be such a pain in the butt to fix. 😬 The obvious solution is "don't make mistakes" but we all know that ain't as easy as it sounds.
No, it's an "Innsmouth U - Fightin' Fishmen" shirt. I think it's based off the Fightin' Irish college team? I'm not a sports guy, so I'm not sure. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions i think its based off that, but innsmouth is actually a town from a game called mansions of madness. The game features a lot lovecraftian horror type creatures including all of the fish-eqsue horror things. edit: innsmouth is in a lot of lovecraftian stuff.
I don't fully understand the miniature hobby. Is there some market for these painted minis that warrants the expense involved? I'm an airbrush artist. The work I have done has been on marketable things like doing custom art on cars and bikes etc. Beside working in automotive paint shops and for a chopper fabrication shop. I've focused on things like guitars, computer cases, and even textiles. So is there money in this hobby, or is it just that? A hobby.
Making shades brighter and darker is not difficult. To make a color brighter, add the next hue closer to yellow. To darken, add the next hue closer to purple. Yes, it's easier to have preset color triads, but I prefer to have a bit more control. Just add in small amounts. That said, I don't know if this applies to airbrushing. There's a reason I'm watching this video, haha!
@@tabletopminions it is funny and since it's describing the shadow color opposite the zenithal highlight, anti-zenithal makes sense. I'd probably say nadiral if I were talking about a light source from below.
the issue with air brush paints is that you use TONS of it. At least with watered acrylics you use like 1/5th the volume of paint in the pot. Air paints are not cost effective.
@@RvnKnight No they don't I just asked them about it and got a reply they haven't gotten around to it. I mean the _colors_ might be there but the promised _documentation_ is still lacking.
@@maxxon99 I could have sworn it was. I admit that I was wrong, thank you for correcting me. There is a flyer that lists them for air (I think I got mine in a box of washes, but not sure). If you can find it, then it may be able to help you figure it out for brush too. I tend not to use brushes anymore as my hands are a bit messed up.
@@RvnKnight Yeah, they promised to provide one a couple years back but never did. That’s why I asked them I saw them requesting feedback a couple weeks back. I’ve been happy with my Foundry triad set, but it’s starting to run out and it’d be nice to have options I don’t have to order overseas.
I think you really nailed WHY we designed Warpaints Air the way that we did: to make airbrushing as easy as possible for painters of all skill levels! Glad you enjoy them!
What do you think about air brushing with speed paints
@@PheonixKnght You’d probably have to thin them a lot and use them like a filter.
@@PheonixKnght you'd be better off using inks and shades TBH...
@@CerealKiller979 shades like quick shades?
I picked up the starter set, excellent paints and I will absolutely be picking up more.
This was a really smart move on behalf of Army Painter. I’d much rather watch a channel I know and trust give an honest endorsement of a product they use with a couple of tips and some advice thrown in, than some random sponsor I’ll never use. Hopefully some other manufacturers reach out to Uncle A and both he as a content provider and we as enthusiasts can benefit from their sponsorship of his channel.
I really like the fact that @TheArmyPainter is now including agitator balls in every new paint. Makes life so much easier.
An excellent video!
I have the Warpaints Air Complete Paint Set and it is an excellent tool for the hobbyist, as you have stated in this video. It quickly became my go to paint for my airbrush and non-airbrush painting as well. I've found that when using a physical brush, I don't have to add water before painting and that speeds up my process a little.
Also, these paints come with the mixing balls already added in the bottles. That's a great feature they have added to their whole line of paint sets now. It makes it so much easier to shake the paint well before use.
Now to increase my airbrush skills on a regular basis by painting models each week.
I love the spray from below then above in two striking colors technique. I like to paint ethereal things a deep purple from below and a light blue from above. I think it really stands out!
I just got an airbrush and the beginner airbrush paints kit from Army Painter. I'm so excited to try this "zenithal" shading technique on some World Eaters
I’m new to airbrushing. I picked one up recently and primed and zenethal painted a handful of minis to work on this winter. I am in Wisconsin and unable to paint outside in winter
Hey man just wanted to say how much of a help your videos have been. I have gotten into painting my 3d prints and just got a decent airbrush, and I've learned a ton from your videos. Keep up the great work man 👍
Glad to know someone else who uses and enjoys the army painter air set. I have the mega set and love it. Use it in my air brush and as normal paint so I don't have to worry about thinning it down.
Great video, unc!
AP is killing it recently.
Been using this triad system since it came out, and loving it. Totally agree with you Uncle A.
Perfect timing! My firts airbrush is arriving tomorrow. 👍
I recently bought a set of 57 Meeden airbrush paints for $75 Australian (about $48 American). Not only were they nice quality wise but they're also 30 ml bottles. Meeden sell good quality artists paints and I was blown away by the quality of this set. I actually use a lot of Meeden's products and they're all fantastic. Their oil paints, miniature brushes and Airbrush & Compressor kits are absolutely great.
yay I love seeing my brand of choice get more and more love .
Great video. I wasn't aware of the AP airbrush paints. I will definitely try them out.
I've seen them and picked up one of the large primer bottles but haven't had a chance to use it.
Where is the robot figure from looks good
I have become a huge fan of The Army Painter stuff in last few months and can't wait to try these out once I get a new air brush to put them through! Video was nice and informative thank you !
I follow a bunch of mini guys, but you are by far my favorite. Thanks to you I started airbrushing!
I dont know why painting miniatures would be different, but as an illustrator I can say that usually changing a bit the hue for shadows and highlights looks a lot better.
It's how the paint we use interacts with each other
Couldn’t agree more, the Army Painter Airbrush paints don’t get nearly enough love. I started off with the Badger Minitaire paints and have pretty much moved completely to AP because of the quality, the colours, and the triad system. Would be great to see more videos about how you use them.
Hey. I watched your twitch stream this weekend. Even though I have built many hundreds of models, I have only rattle can primed black and never painted them. The advice on trying on a plastic spoon to practice with my airbrush sounds useful. I'm giving my cheap airbrush and compressor a shot this weekend. Wish me luck
Hey, great video as always! Two questions: 1) do you ever have any problems with your Army Painter speed paints reactivating after you shoot them through yourairbrush, and if so, how do you work around that, and 2) What airbrush do you use? Once again, thanks for another great video.
Never had that issue at all, and I mainly use an Iawata Eclipse. Thanks for watching!
I have found that using thin layers and giving them a little extra time to dry before applying the next layer works well to stop reactivation when airbrushing. I will then leave the model to fully dry from morning to evening or overnight before applying any paint (particularly speedpaint) directly on top of that base layer using a brush and when I'm heaping a lot of speedpaint on a model, and/or I just need to get it finished fast, a couple of quick blasts of matte varnish between layers has always worked for me.
@@mordecaitoth6703 sound advice, Do you use a varnish for the airbrush and is so what make of varnish is it?
@@chiefchurpa5739 I have not yet used an airbrush to varnish as the spray can I bought when I first started using speedpaints is thankfully still going strong but when it is finally used up I will be taking full advantage of the "How to Varnish with your Airbrush" tutorial from Vince Venturella. I hope that video is useful to you if you haven't seen it already.
To get effective chromatic greys to match your base color try adding a small amount of a coplimentary color. (Somewhere oposite on the color wheel) yellow with violet etc.
Hi Adam, I saw your t-shirt, H.P. Lovecraft rules!! Thanks for this video, I'm still very afraid to use an airbrush, it intimidates me, but these new colors could be a easy way to approach it. Thanks
thanks you. this was perfect timing. Air compressor for my air brush booth just came in today!!
I love triads! My eye for color sucks, so these triads make my life so much easier!
Army Painter made a great product in the air paints - their consistent pigmentation and 'airbrush ready' thinnness means that they are almost 'glaze ready' out of the dropper - a bit of thinning and you are off to the races.
I love this method of laying down a base colour with a beautiful, smooth gradient.
But what I'd like to know, is how can I 'build' triads from any paint range/colour?!
Thanks for this video. I was very curious about the Army Painter Air paints. Now I can't wait to get some.
I forgot about that Rampart terrain. Would love to see a video painting some of that up.
I’ll be starting on it soon, doing a lot of airbrush. Thanks for watching!
This is timely as I'm trying to work out the best way to do my zenithal for Skaven. Black-grey-white leaves the flesh washed out if I use contrast. My idea was to use brown to bone. I know you paint Skaven. What do you think?
I’d probably do that and then vary the skin tones on different models with washes. Thanks for watching!
Really enjoyed this video. I agree with other comments about the air range being overshadowed by the Speedpaint. I get that most mini painters are also wargamers so faster is better, but I think there must be a subset of the community who paint just for the zen-of-it-all, one model at a time. I bought a few of the triads and they are a perfect fit for those of us in the slow lane. And a real confidence builder for those new to the airbrush and the color wheel.
You come just right in time when I'm about to starting with airbrush, thanks buddy! Feel much safer to go forward on that, cheers!
Fantastic video. One thing I also like is dynamic lighting.
I have had an air brush sitting in my desk drawer for several years and I want to used it but it comes down to not having an appropriate area for it and being afraid to break it while thinking. It’s good to know about AP’s air line and I’ve always been a triad painter since a learned using citadel paints. Will have to give it a go soon
ah good to know, im kinda new to airbrushing tho ive done a tonne of base coating but not much else so i'll give these a try, One thing i am struggling with is finding a good matt varnish suitable for the air brush
Thank you for the info--I have a couple of new things to try later today. (The middle/circle gradient and the anti-zenith mainly.)
I have only really used the AP Air paints with my airbrush--little to no thinner as you mentioned. I have found that with the Alien/Coven/Broodmother Purples and the metallics especially I have to thin them like crazy or they do clog up my brush. Otherwise, I have no complaints with them aside for the lack of being able to get them locally as no one really carries the AP paints, and the two that do don't carry the AP Air.
Now for a bit of an odd idea: I have some clear gesso that I can think down for airbrush consistency, and I am curious if I can utilize it and the base colors of the triads as a primer. I may go ahead and try it when I'm doing those techniques later.
Purples are a bit tricky as are metallics. We thinned them as much as possible and refined the pigments however purple pigments and mica by volume are just heavier. So depending on what pressure you’re pushing, you may need to thin them more but most of the paints in the range are ready to use right from the bottle.
@@TheArmyPainter
I didn't think about the pigments of purple being heavier. The metallics are understandable though. I just took an empty bottle and put about half of it as water/thinner and added the color I needed. Also, thanks for replying, it helps to understand the issues with it.
@@RvnKnight fun fact: most paint companies lose money selling purple paint! Because purple pigments are purchased by volume and purple pigments are heavier than most! Which is why many brands have a limited range of purple. ;)
Great video. I’ve been back painting 40k for a couple of years now, and just got myself an airbrush at the Army Painter starter set
You are the master of gesticulation, also good advice thank you.
That yellow robot turned out amazing.
Very helpful and nice video. Keep up the good work.
Learning to use my airbrush is on my list for 2023.
Get after it! 🎉
Amazing video! Learned so much. I never know what to do with wash when I use the airbrush. Is it needed with a color triad? Thanks!
It depends on what you’re looking for. I usually put wash on everything. Thanks for watching!
Hey! Would you please make a video about varnishing? Just giving your opinions on it, whether you do it or not and why.
I am lucky to live in one of the dryest green spaces in north america: the Canadian prairies! I can prime all year long outside 'cause the cold don't bother us Canuckleheads at all, eh?
Love the fighting Innsmouth shirt
I have been mixing my paints for airbrushing for a while and am about to start a new deathguard army. Maybe i will get a few triads of these to try out and see if i like them. Thanks for the video and pointers. Always love your content.
This sort of tips and info on the channel is what I love to see. A bit of a rehash for the first part of the video though...
Well, the channel is aimed at getting new people into the hobby, so I’ll end up explaining some things again in certain videos. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions Makes sense!
What primer would you recommend if the model will be a lighting blue. Not as dark like the ultramarine going for an ice blue colour
So taking the wizard with a red cloak as an example, should you mask off everything except the cloak before laying the base color? I ran into this exact problem and didn’t mask, now I’m trying to apply flesh tones speedpaint without masking and the red undercoat was shining through ruining the flesh tone. Or should you rebase the flesh in an opaque white and then add the speed paints? Or do you just add an opaque flesh tone? The same goes for any mini wearing clothing and lots of accessories. I mean, you don’t want the entire model based in a red triad do you?
Will I need to use the airbrush medium on the Army Painter Air paints when using them through mu Cordless NO-NAME Airbrush compressor? I want to say the NI-NAME cordless sprays at a max of 20-25 PSI, but some say its more towards 20.
New to this hobby had to thumbs up and sub. Thank you for sharing.
Hello,
Thank you for your amazing videos. I have a question and would appreciate your guidance. I have an airbrush kit and want to use it for painting action figures. However, I don't have access to professional paints. I am using a water-based acrylic paint, but when I pour it into the airbrush's reservoir, no paint comes out. Air is released from the airbrush, but not the paint.
The needle is clean, the airbrush is clean, and there are no blockages in the output. The needle is secured properly, and the pressure button is functioning well. When I use the same paint with a brush, despite it being water-based, it doesn't easily wash off with just water. I have to use a cloth to clean my hands when washing them.
Could you please help me with this issue? Thank you!
Your airbrush might be a two-stage airbrush - many of them are. You put down to make air come out, and then you also pull back on that same button to release paint. This gives you the ability to vary how much air and how much paint you use. Also, make sure to thin your paint when you put it on the airbrush - it needs to be like skim milk in its consistency. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions Thank you so much for your response. Yes, my airbrush is two-stage. I just have one question: my paints seem to have a pigmented structure, as when they dry, it feels like there are tiny particles in them.
I just so happened to have bought that yellow triad a couple weeks ago,but notices the orange base would not feed at all through my airgun, is this common with their oranges or did I just get a dud bottle?
what kind of gray primer did you begin with 7:44?
All that weather, I too live in England!
I bought the army painter air paint set but i mainly use them with a regular brush because the air brush is too fiddley and the air paints are already thinned down to where they flow nicely off a brush
What brown base/primer do you use?
What PSI do you generally use with Army Painter Warpaint Air? I have a cheapo airbrush (problem the first), and I sometimes get a bit of clogging/drytip unless I thin a bit (~20psi)
I really don’t get zenithal priming. It always seems that every time it’s done, it just ends up getting painted over. I DO find it necessary when using Army Painters speed paints (which I love!). They are thing enough that the zenithal priming beneath, pops through…really giving you the shadows and highlights you’d expect, without much effort at all.
But! If you’re just going to apply an opaque base color on top of the zenithal…what’s the point??
I don’t usually do it if I’m only planning on doing opaque paints. Thanks for watching!
What brand of air brush do you use or recommend?
I’m thinking of picking some of these up, based on your video. Is there a sponsored link that would give you some kickback for doing so?
Really amazing tips and a great video as usual 😊👍👍
May I ask where you got those walls from?
They were from an Archon Studios Kickstarter earlier this year. I'm not sure if they'll be selling it on their website, sadly. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions thanks for your fast response and I'll keep my eyes open in hopes to find them 😊
15 years painting warhammer, first time using an airbrush last week, i say i do prefer a very watery thin mix, makes it easier for me to toothbrush scrub off any mistake
Nice shirt! Were you on the swim team?
I love that shirt ♥
I know this was an ad but that was an excellent video.
It was sponsored, but I don’t feel like it was an “ad” - I certainly could have taught the same effects with any airbrush paints, but the triad feature of the TAP Air paints makes it easier. Thanks for watching!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you for making this informative video!!
Hi Uncle Atom, what airbrush compressor do you use with your Iwata eclipse? A brand or model will help me. I am having issues with my paasche one
It’s called a Sparmaxx TC-2000 I’m pretty sure. Thanks for watching!
What size needle are you using?
For me it’s the smoothness by far. I’ve gotten good over time.
LOL. I have to ask, is that a innsmouth t-shirt? If so we’re did it come from?
3:27 is table ready for my monsters. Handpaint numbers on bases.
Honestly, the thing that has been scaring me the most is the fact that I have to clean the airbrush so thoroughly after each usage. At least based on the videos that i've seen so far. Is there a way around this?
how did you base that bladeguard?
Superglue and some kitty litter and some texture paint, mostly. Thanks for watching!
Airbrushing itself is not super difficult. Just takes some experimentation and getting used to for some neat results.
Working around airbrushed surfaces though, I think that's often difficult. Picking out details with a brush after the initial airbrush job can be tricky - making a mistake and getting paint on a surface we've masterfully airbrushed earlier can be such a pain in the butt to fix. 😬
The obvious solution is "don't make mistakes" but we all know that ain't as easy as it sounds.
I'd recommend putting on varnish then. Then you can use water to 'rub off' your mistake without ruining the airbrushed gradient under it :)
@@DevilizerHimself True.
That requires spotting the error immediately though. :)
I'm from UK. Airbrush is easier to do. Things with models with more flat surfaces, dry brush isn't a good idea, airbrush works much better.
Is that a mansions of madness innsmouth shirt?
No, it's an "Innsmouth U - Fightin' Fishmen" shirt. I think it's based off the Fightin' Irish college team? I'm not a sports guy, so I'm not sure. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions i think its based off that, but innsmouth is actually a town from a game called mansions of madness. The game features a lot lovecraftian horror type creatures including all of the fish-eqsue horror things.
edit: innsmouth is in a lot of lovecraftian stuff.
thank you!
i cANt zenithal I cant figure out I just spray everything because I think have to. help .
I don't fully understand the miniature hobby. Is there some market for these painted minis that warrants the expense involved? I'm an airbrush artist. The work I have done has been on marketable things like doing custom art on cars and bikes etc. Beside working in automotive paint shops and for a chopper fabrication shop. I've focused on things like guitars, computer cases, and even textiles. So is there money in this hobby, or is it just that? A hobby.
Hey, it's Uncle Atom.
Making shades brighter and darker is not difficult. To make a color brighter, add the next hue closer to yellow. To darken, add the next hue closer to purple. Yes, it's easier to have preset color triads, but I prefer to have a bit more control. Just add in small amounts.
That said, I don't know if this applies to airbrushing. There's a reason I'm watching this video, haha!
If you didnt want buy nee range of colors. Just buy color wheel. Learn about it and you can stay wirh your regular colors you are actualy using.
Wouldn't the antonym of zenithal be nadiral? 🤔
Yes, precisely this. The zenith is the top the nadir is the bottom.
I think anti-zenithal is funnier, I guess. It goes back to a video I made with Sam years ago. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminions it is funny and since it's describing the shadow color opposite the zenithal highlight, anti-zenithal makes sense. I'd probably say nadiral if I were talking about a light source from below.
Nadiral sounds like a nasal spray for allergies.
You play shootas blood n teef yet ?
Nope, haven’t had the time. Thanks for watching!
Wow, this is your first sponsored video, isn’t it?
No, it’s just been awhile. Thanks for watching!
I really need to learn to airbrush.
I wish I had a good place to use my airbrush. Want to do a video on portable airbrush stations?
the issue with air brush paints is that you use TONS of it. At least with watered acrylics you use like 1/5th the volume of paint in the pot. Air paints are not cost effective.
👍👍👍
Now waiting for them to do the same thing for the regular paints...
Do you mean the triad system? They already have it for the regular paints, as well different sized boxes sets.
@@RvnKnight No they don't I just asked them about it and got a reply they haven't gotten around to it.
I mean the _colors_ might be there but the promised _documentation_ is still lacking.
@@maxxon99
I could have sworn it was. I admit that I was wrong, thank you for correcting me. There is a flyer that lists them for air (I think I got mine in a box of washes, but not sure). If you can find it, then it may be able to help you figure it out for brush too. I tend not to use brushes anymore as my hands are a bit messed up.
@@RvnKnight Yeah, they promised to provide one a couple years back but never did. That’s why I asked them I saw them requesting feedback a couple weeks back.
I’ve been happy with my Foundry triad set, but it’s starting to run out and it’d be nice to have options I don’t have to order overseas.
Dudes location sounds like canada
The tri state area
For the algorithm
Am I the only one with OCD about desynced picture and sound?
Why is my airbrush spitting paint?
What!?! No "pachow"!?
98897
Demonic yellow, huh. I know a guy who works on the motorway who could have gotten you a few tins of that. Don’t paint your kitchen with it though.