From an old fart...I always use spring tension clamps on coolant lines. Rubber expands and contracts greatly in that hot environment....eventually the rubber looses it's rebound under a stationary clamp and becomes compressed and loose. The spring type clamp is always squeezing inward, regardless of how much the rubber shrinks.
Agreed. Was surprised to see him replace a crimp with a crimp. Was expecting to see a constant tension spring type clamp as you mentioned. He hasn’t seen his leak yet but it’s the same methodology as the ford part so no brainer it will expand out all the same. Maybe the after market clamps are slightly better quality but not enough to matter.
I always use screw clamps if reusing the old crushed rubber hose. Unless there's enough hose to cut off the portion that 'took a set', the spring clamps don't usually put enough pressure on the rubber hose because it only has a defined amount of tension and squeeze travel. Once you put enough tension on a screw clamp, it will probably bond the hose to the nipple after a year or so and you'll have to use a hose pick to get them separated. Plus it's probably easier to tighten a screw clamp in a difficult area when on a trip with a screwdriver than trying to get pliers on it on the side of the road if it ever was was to leak.
Good strong spring clamps beat screw or worm drive clamps as they apply constant tension which will take up the slack of the compressed hose. They are self adjusting.
Watching your videos has made me appreciate the simplicity of my 95 5.0 F150. Lot’s of simple vacuum systems, not nearly as many electrical components, just a basic motor and all around easier to work on.
I’m with you. Although a lot of People criticize worm clamps, evidently they either over tighten them or don’t tighten them enough because I’ve been repairing cars since I was a young teen working with my dad in the 1970s. I’ve never had problems with worm clamps. If I have the access and need to replace a clamp, I usually use a worm clamp.
In Chicago the plastic t-fitting brakes and the heater hose nipple where that hose goes into usually snap off too, I never saw one lose like the 3 you have.
I was going to say, aftermarket companies should offer an aluminum replacement, so you can avoid shelling out big bucks for the whole shebang. I’ve used Dorman t-fittings many times on grand caravan heater hose t-fittings instead of ordering the entire spaghetti mess sold from the dealer, and it saves the customer lots of $$ in the end
I'm not familiar ŵith the plyers/cutters you used to tighten the clamp. However, looks like the c/v clamp tightening tool might do a better job. The tool for crimping the C/V boot straps that is. M
EXACTLY do NOT WASTE Your Money on a New P.O.S FORD TRUCK just go buy an old one and fix it up you'll be alot happier & won't have to pull the cab to check the oil
I have 160k on my 2017 King Ranch. I had to replace one coolant line in that time. One going to the turbo started leaking. What is causing so many to fail in your area? I watch both coolant system levels and mine do not fluctuate, so it isn't leaking!
Replacing the whole part when it juat needed clamps is a big problem when there is no other problem and it's not going to cost more in labor or something than it would have been to replace it that's not right
Just had to fix my nephews 2014 f150 5.0 coolant leaks. The plastic tee fitting and the hoses with an o-ring/ plastic bushing and metal wire clip setup are pretty shitty. Bad thing is, the hose is 100$ and the tee fitting is 100$. Ford dropped the ball on those crappy connections. Was an easy fix though
It seems like you're putting the same clamp on that you're taking off what about Worm Drive clamps they're made by Gates and they make a tool for that particular crip on clamp at Lowe's it's in the plumbing department
When I worked at ford for 3 months in a heavy truck shop I was astounded at the amount of inferior plastic components on a 6.7 powerstroke. Even removing coolant hoses to perform warranty repairs would sometimes lead to leaks after the fact. GM’s have some plastic pieces but Ford is the top when it comes to overpriced poor quality parts.
@Olds_Pwr I'll just say this when I was younger, my cousin launched his hard body off a hill, and the thing was fine he drove it, maybe another 10-15k miles untill it needed a clutch with no problems.
@@Ruckusism That does not change the fact that Toyota Motor Company agreed to pay approximately $3.4 billion to compensate owners of certain truck models with frames that are prone to rust corrosion and perforation in order to settle a proposed class action lawsuit in California federal court.
@@Ruckusism It is now clear that I am chatting with a person with a low IQ. Yes you are right, no Ford will make it to 100,000 miles and a rusted out frame is a much better and safer option to be driving around in. Who needs structural support.
Lmao get the screw tighten style clamps dont buy another set of thoe clamps if they went the first time...cause most of the parts on that ford were made in china and failed...you have guys with 95 and under ford trucks with stock clamps still holding😂😂😂😂
@@mattsbrute i don't have to pull the cab off my truck to work on it. I have an 11.5 rear end. Your garbage Dana 80 only has a 10.5 rear end. It's also not 25 years old. Every part of your truck is made in China and the parts are less available than mine. Mine also has an industrial engine. Yours is not even commercial grade. CP4 injection pumps are also junk. What would I know. Just been wrenching on vehicles that serve the northern Canadian oil patch. I know what last and it isn't power jokes.
@@mattsbrute hahahahah still a garbage 10.5. My duallies are 11.5. Many ford rear ends rebuilt simply because they were worked too hard in the patch. Only 11.5s I've ever played with is because the vent breather was neglected.
From an old fart...I always use spring tension clamps on coolant lines. Rubber expands and contracts greatly in that hot environment....eventually the rubber looses it's rebound under a stationary clamp and becomes compressed and loose. The spring type clamp is always squeezing inward, regardless of how much the rubber shrinks.
Agreed. Was surprised to see him replace a crimp with a crimp. Was expecting to see a constant tension spring type clamp as you mentioned. He hasn’t seen his leak yet but it’s the same methodology as the ford part so no brainer it will expand out all the same. Maybe the after market clamps are slightly better quality but not enough to matter.
I always use screw clamps if reusing the old crushed rubber hose. Unless there's enough hose to cut off the portion that 'took a set', the spring clamps don't usually put enough pressure on the rubber hose because it only has a defined amount of tension and squeeze travel. Once you put enough tension on a screw clamp, it will probably bond the hose to the nipple after a year or so and you'll have to use a hose pick to get them separated. Plus it's probably easier to tighten a screw clamp in a difficult area when on a trip with a screwdriver than trying to get pliers on it on the side of the road if it ever was was to leak.
I would just convert them to screw clamps.
Good strong spring clamps beat screw or worm drive clamps as they apply constant tension which will take up the slack of the compressed hose. They are self adjusting.
Another way of saying it, screw clamps are unequal pressure. They've been known to break water necks on radiators.
Watching your videos has made me appreciate the simplicity of my 95 5.0 F150. Lot’s of simple vacuum systems, not nearly as many electrical components, just a basic motor and all around easier to work on.
I got a 95 myself but with the mighty 4.9, I’ll be driving it till I die!
@@mariopineda2293 Love the 300! indestructible
Fellow SMT here...Ford dealer in TX. I just fixed one of those hoses today for this exact same issue lol. It is a thing.
On my 17 F350, had coolant boogees around thise fittings. Added worm gear hose clamps to each fitting = no more coolant boogers.
I’m with you. Although a lot of People criticize worm clamps, evidently they either over tighten them or don’t tighten them enough because I’ve been repairing cars since I was a young teen working with my dad in the 1970s. I’ve never had problems with worm clamps. If I have the access and need to replace a clamp, I usually use a worm clamp.
Have you ever used power grip shrink clamps? I use them on every 6.7 that come thru my shop. Plus they look really slick. I’ve never had one leak
Don’t interrupt the man when he’s on a roll! 😜
I usually replace those ts with metal ones, they get super brittle will break as soon as you touch or forget and lean on them
In Chicago the plastic t-fitting brakes and the heater hose nipple where that hose goes into usually snap off too, I never saw one lose like the 3 you have.
I was going to say, aftermarket companies should offer an aluminum replacement, so you can avoid shelling out big bucks for the whole shebang. I’ve used Dorman t-fittings many times on grand caravan heater hose t-fittings instead of ordering the entire spaghetti mess sold from the dealer, and it saves the customer lots of $$ in the end
I watch this young man regularly, and the reason i bought a Chevy! 💯 Fact
Chevy? Really?
Every auto company uses cheap hardware somewhere to save a few cents. Maybe it is on your brake hoses.
@@Olds_Pwr sabotage
Must be trolling because GM is even worse
@@Mike-jy6mf 💯😂😂😂 I actually own both!
I'm not familiar ŵith the plyers/cutters you used to tighten the clamp. However, looks like the c/v clamp tightening tool might do a better job. The tool for crimping the C/V boot straps that is. M
EXACTLY do NOT WASTE Your Money on a New P.O.S FORD TRUCK just go buy an old one and fix it up you'll be alot happier & won't have to pull the cab to check the oil
1999 F 350 7.3 For Life
Just had it leak of my '20. I removed the plastic tees and put some metal ones on and used worm clamps on it
I have 160k on my 2017 King Ranch. I had to replace one coolant line in that time. One going to the turbo started leaking. What is causing so many to fail in your area? I watch both coolant system levels and mine do not fluctuate, so it isn't leaking!
Dont see the link anywhere ???
Have you done a video on what year is best for the 6.7 powersteoke?
Great Report. Thank You
Why not use regular hose clamps, instead of putting the same junk back on?
Why replace the clamps with thesame style that F'ud
So in your opinion what’s is the best powerstroke
I got a 2011 f150 6.2 limited lariat doing manifolds replacement any tips?
Replacing the whole part when it juat needed clamps is a big problem when there is no other problem and it's not going to cost more in labor or something than it would have been to replace it that's not right
Why can't you just use regular hose clamps?
You make great videos the other guy is the most common form of hater 😂😂
Just had to fix my nephews 2014 f150 5.0 coolant leaks. The plastic tee fitting and the hoses with an o-ring/ plastic bushing and metal wire clip setup are pretty shitty. Bad thing is, the hose is 100$ and the tee fitting is 100$. Ford dropped the ball on those crappy connections. Was an easy fix though
It seems like you're putting the same clamp on that you're taking off what about Worm Drive clamps they're made by Gates and they make a tool for that particular crip on clamp at Lowe's it's in the plumbing department
Good job
Aren't these just regular PEX B cinch rings? They sure look the same. Ryobi makes an awesome power crimper for those, just sayin.
When I worked at ford for 3 months in a heavy truck shop I was astounded at the amount of inferior plastic components on a 6.7 powerstroke. Even removing coolant hoses to perform warranty repairs would sometimes lead to leaks after the fact. GM’s have some plastic pieces but Ford is the top when it comes to overpriced poor quality parts.
Takes even longer to get heat into the cabin...
When it's that complex, start over.
6.7.powerstroke biggest money pit of any Diesel of the modern era
Worse than 6.0?
You obviously didn’t have a 6.4
Hell, worst diesel ever to exist, from what it looks like....
@@ericwilson2585 I wouldn’t consider a spider wine that might leak enough to categorize it as the worse diesel ever
I made way more $$$ off the 6.0 and 6.4 in my career. You know nothing, sir.
“…everything can’t be the most common…”😂😂😂
Make sure we get the years when you say 6.7 please! You scare us all! 😅
For $200 ford must be awful proud of a piece of **** ; I also agree with the other guy. The most common thing you say….
Looks like the nipples are long enough to install the other clamps without removing the old ones?
Good find a definite plus for the customer 👍🏻
Ford don't care whether it needs to fixed or not.
Furd joonk
Just recrimp the existing clamp. Problem solved for zero dollars.
Toyota needs to sit ford down and show them how to make a reliable truck.
Like their frames?
@Olds_Pwr I'll just say this when I was younger, my cousin launched his hard body off a hill, and the thing was fine he drove it, maybe another 10-15k miles untill it needed a clutch with no problems.
@@Ruckusism That does not change the fact that Toyota Motor Company agreed to pay approximately $3.4 billion to compensate owners of certain truck models with frames that are prone to rust corrosion and perforation in order to settle a proposed class action lawsuit in California federal court.
@Olds_Pwr and those trucks will still be running well after 100k miles. If it was a Ford, it would be totaled.
@@Ruckusism It is now clear that I am chatting with a person with a low IQ. Yes you are right, no Ford will make it to 100,000 miles and a rusted out frame is a much better and safer option to be driving around in. Who needs structural support.
Lmao get the screw tighten style clamps dont buy another set of thoe clamps if they went the first time...cause most of the parts on that ford were made in china and failed...you have guys with 95 and under ford trucks with stock clamps still holding😂😂😂😂
Man, those fords are overpriced junk. Sure is job security for the mechanic. That is awesome. My next lifetime, I’ll be a Ford mechanic.
Ford 6.7 Powerjokes are heaps of shit. Disgustingly over complicated.
@@mattsbrute must not drive it. My 07 cummins has 800k on the odometer.
@@mattsbrute i don't have to pull the cab off my truck to work on it. I have an 11.5 rear end. Your garbage Dana 80 only has a 10.5 rear end. It's also not 25 years old. Every part of your truck is made in China and the parts are less available than mine. Mine also has an industrial engine. Yours is not even commercial grade. CP4 injection pumps are also junk. What would I know. Just been wrenching on vehicles that serve the northern Canadian oil patch. I know what last and it isn't power jokes.
@@mattsbrute hahahahah still a garbage 10.5. My duallies are 11.5. Many ford rear ends rebuilt simply because they were worked too hard in the patch. Only 11.5s I've ever played with is because the vent breather was neglected.