What I did is unstick the bottom rubbers, put the dampening feet on the printer and stick the rubbers back on the feet. The printer makes probably half the noise it used to do, and probably 90% less vibration. Also putting the rubbers back on makes it grip better. The plastic dampening feet make it really slippery.
Thanks for the time it takes to put this together. I seem to be reading and viewing all this before I even get the Ender 3 but I certainly will be prepared.
hi michael! .. got mine today and have to say, that mechanically this is really well done - extremely accurate & stable. everything fitting perfectly, no wobble of the base and posts are 100% rectangluar; looks like they have improved since the first versions, only mechanical flaws remaining are the filament feed close to the z-spindle and the z-stepper. did print this little spacer, but still was not thick enough; had to extend it quite a bit to really solve the issue to tighten the thread-plate on the extruder trolley. screws - of course - too short afterwards, but i had some m3x25 - so all good. .. nice to see, that the alu plate is without any warping. bed now comes unglued and with clips instead, which is not a bad idea because i wanna use glass anyway. but .. the problem is, that it is warped up in the center, so proper levelling is impossible; no way to get rid of that. furthermore it is way too sticky - i think. btw .. any nice idea, how i can remove extremely thin plastic (pla) layer from this rough and sticky surface without completely scratching it to death?
thx! .. meanwhile - funny enough - put the plate in the freezer, but could get rid of a small part of the crap only; but .. my several testprints step by step removed the residue anyway. some small white particles sticking to the black bottoms, but not a big deal - during testing. now finally, printerbed is nearly clean. ;-) (btw. surface seems to be the same, it´s just not glued on to the alu plate.)
I would recommend the EZABL. The BLtouch is *not as reliable and accurate and the reading deviates too much.* It does work and gives you a near perfect first layer, but be wary and tune it in as close as you physically can. The EZABL is a drop-in addon. It does not require any modifications to your printer apart from the obvious mount and replacing the Z endstop. You have a choice of how to power it: either by wiring it into the Ender 3's motherboard or plug it into the wall with a power adaptor. Then just flash the firmware and you're done. If you want the BLtouch, get one with a metal pin. *The plastic pin on the V3 is known to snap off* if you breath on it. In addition, the V3 smart model does not work with the regular BLtouch firmware. You need the regular BLtouch version. You *can get the V3 to work, and there is a tutorial from Teaching Tech to achieve this, but be prepared to edit your firmware code.* Keep a clean copy on hand in case you accidentally edited something you shouldn't have and your firmware fails to compile or it makes your printer do weird stuff!
I had my local glass shop cut two plates for me at exactly 235mm x 235mm x 3mm, then sand the edges to prevent cuts. I never have to apply hairspray or anything, it just sticks beautifully. I keep the plates clean with isopropyl alcohol and heat though. Never touch the exposed plate with your bare hands, or you'll need to clean it again, so I use nitrile gloves if I need to handle them. Cost me $4 per plate, and I couldn't ask for better guys to do the work.
A better solution than the “feet”, which amplify any shaking: a concrete 2x2 block sitting on rubber foam. I got this idea from a video on TH-cam: the best $2 upgrade for your printer. It’s awesome!
Same here, my mom and I bought one together to cover the costs. My mom still has to learn drawing stuff, that was not the problem for me and I've been printing A LOT since getting it in July 2020.
Neoprene foam materials would work better as a dampener underneath the 3D printer. Plus, it's more stable and won't risk the legs breaking or the printer imbalance. Neoprene is super cheap too.
If you cut a couple of slots down the threads of an extra M5 bolt, you can use that as a thread tap instead of drilling all the meat and grabbing at only 10% of threaded surface.
The dampers would be great for speaker stands as well! Might need to 3x3 or 6x6 depending on the weight of your boxes. Or sprinkle them like bows in rows. Cheaper than hockey pucks. I loved the parts with the inanimate carbon tube.
Nice video, great work. I've been doing some work on my Ender 3 too: I've installed Marlin 1.1.9 and bed autoleveling with it. I used a 8mm induction probe (like the Pinda in size, very cheap) and made a holder for it. It puts the probe on same Y and to the left on X. Had to change several things, like some wires on Z and inverting it (I kept the z endstop as safety), and mixed both with a diode. I wanted to activate advanced filament change and filament runout but the board has not enough memory so I've ordered a board from a CR-10S and I'll try to configure Marlin to work with it. It has an Atmega2560 on it and a bunch more pins available to add nicieties, hehehehe... If memory allows me probably it will end having controlled fans to cut noise when not printing. I'm going to try the noise dampeners too, but I think that the stepper whine may be fixed just when I replace the steppers with powerfuller ones.
Great post! I have a spare MK3 pinda probe, they are cheap. Planning to experiment with it as a DIT ABL solution. Also found a mainboard I'd like to test for printers with limitations like this. Good luck finishing your mods!
If you have purchased a Ender 3 in the past 6 months the Extruder wheel no longer seems to work as they use a different motor or something and there is no axle to attach it to because it is flat.
Actually, those damper feet aren't the best idea. If you watch the printer closely during printing, they can allow the printer to sway and resonate as the axes move back and forth rapidly, and introduce ghosting into your prints. A much better solution are one of the "squash ball" feet designs which provides vibration isolation while keeping the machine stable and sway-free. I paired the squash ball feet with a slab of concrete paver stone to create a super quiet and stable platform for my printer.
Nathan Rollins Agree these feets are quieten the printer but make prints bad...checkout th-cam.com/video/Ws1JfHl3Y0o/w-d-xo.html i got a 50x50cm playground rubber pavor under my printers quiet and no strange artifacts on the print. Even MK3 rubber feet are bad.
3D Gussner I've not seen any negative side effects from the feet. No ghosting or similar artifacts. The linked video shows that those feet can indeed lower resonant frequencies of the printer and increase amplitudes of vibrations. Now I feel a bit bad because I sent Michael a message requesting a review of them - mostly because I wanted to see a measurement of how much noise they actually reduce. I felt they were a huge factor in quieting down my printer. I hope other persons' prints don't suffer from this.
I have the larger versions of these feet on my cr-10s, and they do indeed quieten the printer a bit, but they do have a negative impact on print quality.
RedHotBagel Don't feel bad as I tried also different feets/solutions to get my printer quieter and with some prints the quality was good but some got quite bad. My final solution is the rubber playground pavor.
It's an easy mod to remove if you don't like it. RedHotBagel sorry I didn't test it more thoroughly for noise. I would have had to remove all of my dampers to get a reliable before and after.
Great videos. BUT, black printed parts on a black printer don't really show up. So ideally could be done in a brighter colour so we can see how they fit a bit easier.
It's nitpicking I know but don't drill out and force a M5 screw in these. It's really easy to screw up and wallow out the hole bigger than the M5. It might not matter for this particular thing, but just spend a few bucks on an M5 tap and just do it right the first time.
I took some of the packing foam that it came with, cut it to the width of the extrusion, and doubled it over. It works amazingly as an insulator from my desk. So much quieter.
Just got my Ender 3 and it seems they have made some improvements. It now comes with better tube fittings (or so it seems as they dont let go of the tube very easy) and also e few of those clips to secure them, no need to print any.
Better cable management will eliminate the need for the piece preventing cable snags on the frame. I don't understand why people are so quick to print a solution to an easily rectified problem. I'm pretty OCD about keeping my cable organization clean and tidy. This aside, great content! Keep up the good work!
I agree. I will say I wish manufacturers would. Put emphasis on cable management rather than leaving it to individuals to work it out. Put together another mk3 this week and remembered how well it is done on that.
There is a much better cable management clip for the rear www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858 that you attach to the top of the stepper motor and you don't see cable catch to the frame on the rear left with it.
Good tips, interesting approach to the cable snag problem. Want to pull the trigger on the printer, but... I couldn't really find out where to drop that code on the Banggood web site. Normally I don't ask for help shopping. But there is a code.....
Where you put the SD adapter is so much better than where I keep seeing people put it (next to the LCD, especially if you want to print a tray for that space). I feel like there's a better solution for the LCD cable than just "stick it underneath". It looks messy. Maybe there's a tray file that has room for the cable?
This is what I like about open source! Community always makes a project wonderful and nails all the problems! Is there a place I can buy this printer in South Africa? Great video!
Hello, I received my Ender 3 yesterday and things are going well, yay. Had some issues with the z-axis bar since I didn't push it deep enough and a noob needs about 20 minutes to notice the whole Z thing wasn't going up. Anyhows, I have a question about that tray. Which one shall take from thingieverse? The updated one for my ender 3 since it's recent? Or the first edition there? Thanks alot, a totally over the top excited newbie! o//
Lots of nice mods, The RPI case will definitely work for my Ender 3 I have been struggling with the settings for OctoLapse, your doing exactly what I want for my timelapse. Any way you can replay your settings for the Ender 3 in regards to Octolapse. Thank You
I have a video coming up on how to get the Octolapses pretty close to perfect. It will explain everything. Just need to finishing designing a movable arm for the cheap web cam I am recommending.
Thanks for all the advise and tips for this printer. I was wondering though, do you also plan on installing a filament runout sensor that stops the prints? Is this possible with the ender 3? I'm using mine at work (a high school) and the ability to automatically stop prints until the next morning if the filament runs out overnight would be invaluable. I can't seem to find much info with the EZOut and this printer. Thanks again!
hello got my ender to day :) thank you for all the tips:), they have upgaded some stuff on mine. the logo thing is not glue`d to the bed and you can take it off easy. and it looks like they have changed the tube. and the cabel thing has been redone :) but down loded all the upgades to have some thing to print :D so far evrything has been the dream :D and for all your good tips of the ender 3 content :D
@@TeachingTech tnx :D btw one thing to add to the ender 3.. first layer shoud be heated to 75 and after go down to 60 for the rest. it looks like i printed on glass :) relly happy i whent inn to this hobby :D keep up the god videos :D and agen tnx for all the tips :)
everyone should have a carbon tube at home =D good one. but over all, good video. i had the clips for bovden tube already in package, but that's at the end of 2022.
Michael, This video was excellent. I was on the fence about getting this printer, but after watching your videos this printer is fantastic with just a few minor modifications. I will be ordering this printer sometime next week, I will be sure to include the upgrades that you have suggested in other videos. Upgrades like the Marlin 1.1.9 firmware, thermal runaway protection, EZABL bed leveling sensor and the stepper motor dampers for the x-axis and y-axis. Keep the content coming!! P.S. my name's Michael too! LOL!
Hi Michael, I started a Michael Club at school as a joke. Only me and two students. At one stage we had a logo, hand sign and even a meeting :D Glad to be of service, enjoy your new printer.
No need to juggle SD cards, ability to monitor printer from anywhere the house or indeed the world, and most importatly for me, the ability to make Octolapses like you saw in this video.
Iv upgraded mine with metal slot wheels on the Y axis. Something is wrong with the 20x40, it was cutting into the origernal wheels, the hardened plastic ones but these full steel ones are cutting back :D. The paint is too thick making the edge pointy.
I'd recommend the creality version of the ultrabase for the ender 3, just put 3 clips and you finally have a flat print surface, no need for ABL. Have you found a way to get rid of zits and hide the Z seam on the prints?
Teaching Tech thanks, I am really looking forward for the calibration video as many info I found on the ender 3 don't address the advanced features (like coasting, combing, linear advance). I like the ironing feature of cura, but I hate how it draws lines across the layers while traveling
Is the BLTouch installation video still in the works? Been looking forward to that one. Gonna wait till I see you do it on the Ender 3 before attempting it on my CR-10 Mini which uses the same board.
Sure is. I have had the BLtouch here for a whilebut decided to install with pin27 board. Ordered weks ago but Australia post is being stupily slow. Definitely not the sender's fault. Surely it has to come any day now!
The tray never seemed to fit into the slots for me. Do newer Ender 3’s have less clearance between the bar that holds the control panel and the Y axis?
BTW, Where did you get that tri-pod stand and what camera do you use? Also, do you have the Anet A8? What about the CR-10? I'm using stock software on the machine, and using Cura to slice things I found on Thingiverse. I don't know how to cad yet. That will be later. Thank You Tom
This one was filmed with a Logitech c930 on a $5 eBay cheapy tripod. Don't have an anet or cr-10, do have a tevo Tornado which is mostly a clone. I don't use Cura but it's quite popular so I guess it must be ok.
those waves are most likely caused by printer than material itself - those are way too regular. Does they appear on flat horizontal surfaces of your prints? For me it looks like issue described in here: www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7d1pqe/vertical_surface_ripples_banding_waves_solved/ I love your video - don't get me wrong - but I'm facing the same issue and wonder what's the cause ;)
They're are pretty close. I have a Logitech webcam that works great but I want to provide a cheaper option, so I have some cheaper webcams on the way to test before I make my follow up octolapse video.
Teaching Tech yeah I'm using a raspberry pi v2 webcam and the picture is nowhere near as clean as yours. Looks like I'll have to check out your upcoming vid!
excellent channel. I just bought an ender 3 and I have problems with printing on the Z axis the printing starts well but after about 10 minutes El Paso starts to get smaller and smaller. to the point that the print of the cube of 2 x2x2 is 2x2x 0.7. will you have any reference to this ... ???
watching this video made me realize that my feet i made for my ender 3 pro aren't on all the way and that's why I've been having bed leveling issues. not relevant to the video but thanks to the TH-cam algorithm for making my brain function XD
Hi, bud just finished assembling my new Ender 3 printer, however, the LCD display is showing blank. I am sure I have assembled everything correctly. any suggestions as to why this could be happening could it be faulty. any help will be much appreciated.
Hey, I remember you mention doing a video on upgrading a printer with .9 degree steppers? Do you know where I could find that? Do they really work to make better prints or does microstepping make it a wash?
This is done using Octopi with the Octolapse plugin. It is run off of a Raspberry Pi. I do the same thing, and can tell Octolapse that on a layer change, move to these coordinates, wait a second, take a picture, then go back to printing
It was my Frankendoodle video. Next part of that is coming after the Micro Swiss metal hot end arrives. I haven't done any back to back testing on the stepers, but it would make an interesting video.
Hi great vid I have a question my extruder make a lot of noise it sounds like an old dot matrix printer do you get this sound? And if so is there a way to spot it or at least reduce how loud it is? Thanks
Mine is only loud on fast retractions. If yours is like this then that is normal. 3D printers are unfortunately not very quiet. There are some way to quieten them such as this: th-cam.com/video/vu80vctXaxQ/w-d-xo.html
Just getting into 3d printing, and by chance had a Ender 3 gifted to me this past Christmas. Love your videos, so informative.
The original packaging top can also be used as sound insulation, just put the printer on it :)
The dampers are an automatic mod for me now.
You mean the big black material?
I've done that. The foam ends up flattening down under the weight, loosing much of its effectiveness.
What I did is unstick the bottom rubbers, put the dampening feet on the printer and stick the rubbers back on the feet. The printer makes probably half the noise it used to do, and probably 90% less vibration.
Also putting the rubbers back on makes it grip better. The plastic dampening feet make it really slippery.
wtf at 12:08 why did you hold it but pretend to pull it off the desk next to you?
Lol busted. I can't remember why I did that.
Must have rolled a 1 on the skill check. Love the vids, keep it up. Work on sleight of hand.
😂😂😂😂 that's hilarious, I didn't notice that at all.
12.08 penn an teller stuff
Lmao! That got me pretty good hahaha. Nice catch @Jon Culbert
If you have a dremel you can cut a couple lengthwise slits in the threads of a bolt and turn it into a makeshift tap. Works surprisingly well.
Nice tip! I have a tap and die set but din't use it on this video to make it more accessible.
That top pocket is crying out for a pocket pen protector and a set of Bic ballpoints to complete the ensemble.
Thanks for the time it takes to put this together. I seem to be reading and viewing all this before I even get the Ender 3 but I certainly will be prepared.
Thanks Jeff. 3d printing can be challenging but is ultimately rewarding.
hi michael!
.. got mine today and have to say, that mechanically this is really well done - extremely accurate & stable. everything fitting perfectly, no wobble of the base and posts are 100% rectangluar; looks like they have improved since the first versions, only mechanical flaws remaining are the filament feed close to the z-spindle and the z-stepper. did print this little spacer, but still was not thick enough; had to extend it quite a bit to really solve the issue to tighten the thread-plate on the extruder trolley. screws - of course - too short afterwards, but i had some m3x25 - so all good.
.. nice to see, that the alu plate is without any warping. bed now comes unglued and with clips instead, which is not a bad idea because i wanna use glass anyway. but .. the problem is, that it is warped up in the center, so proper levelling is impossible; no way to get rid of that. furthermore it is way too sticky - i think.
btw .. any nice idea, how i can remove extremely thin plastic (pla) layer from this rough and sticky surface without completely scratching it to death?
My glue pulled off almost too easily, although we have different models. On other printers I've had good results with acetone and a scraper.
thx! .. meanwhile - funny enough - put the plate in the freezer, but could get rid of a small part of the crap only; but .. my several testprints step by step removed the residue anyway. some small white particles sticking to the black bottoms, but not a big deal - during testing. now finally, printerbed is nearly clean. ;-) (btw. surface seems to be the same, it´s just not glued on to the alu plate.)
I would recommend the EZABL. The BLtouch is *not as reliable and accurate and the reading deviates too much.* It does work and gives you a near perfect first layer, but be wary and tune it in as close as you physically can. The EZABL is a drop-in addon. It does not require any modifications to your printer apart from the obvious mount and replacing the Z endstop. You have a choice of how to power it: either by wiring it into the Ender 3's motherboard or plug it into the wall with a power adaptor. Then just flash the firmware and you're done. If you want the BLtouch, get one with a metal pin. *The plastic pin on the V3 is known to snap off* if you breath on it. In addition, the V3 smart model does not work with the regular BLtouch firmware. You need the regular BLtouch version. You *can get the V3 to work, and there is a tutorial from Teaching Tech to achieve this, but be prepared to edit your firmware code.* Keep a clean copy on hand in case you accidentally edited something you shouldn't have and your firmware fails to compile or it makes your printer do weird stuff!
The glass bed is fantastic, i recommend that upgrade without any doubt. I suggest you order one from creality or amazon.
I had my local glass shop cut two plates for me at exactly 235mm x 235mm x 3mm, then sand the edges to prevent cuts. I never have to apply hairspray or anything, it just sticks beautifully. I keep the plates clean with isopropyl alcohol and heat though. Never touch the exposed plate with your bare hands, or you'll need to clean it again, so I use nitrile gloves if I need to handle them. Cost me $4 per plate, and I couldn't ask for better guys to do the work.
A better solution than the “feet”, which amplify any shaking: a concrete 2x2 block sitting on rubber foam. I got this idea from a video on TH-cam: the best $2 upgrade for your printer. It’s awesome!
I have the Enter 3 Pro coming in the mail in a couple of days. I can't wait for getting stuff printed, especially since the world is shutting down.
Nice, I did the same exact thing. Happy Lock-down Printing!
Same here, my mom and I bought one together to cover the costs. My mom still has to learn drawing stuff, that was not the problem for me and I've been printing A LOT since getting it in July 2020.
Neoprene foam materials would work better as a dampener underneath the 3D printer. Plus, it's more stable and won't risk the legs breaking or the printer imbalance. Neoprene is super cheap too.
Made me laugh with the carbon fiber tube lol
I couldnt tell if he was being serious or not XD
Wait so y'all don't have a carbon fiber tube just randomly lying around?
If you cut a couple of slots down the threads of an extra M5 bolt, you can use that as a thread tap instead of drilling all the meat and grabbing at only 10% of threaded surface.
Man, you are my Ender 3 guru. Your tutorials are the best. Please do keep on
Thanks buddy, appreciate it.
The dampers would be great for speaker stands as well! Might need to 3x3 or 6x6 depending on the weight of your boxes. Or sprinkle them like bows in rows. Cheaper than hockey pucks.
I loved the parts with the inanimate carbon tube.
That Micro SD to SD card extender is available today on Amazon with a black ribbon cable so it is less obvious on my EP3!
Nice video, great work. I've been doing some work on my Ender 3 too: I've installed Marlin 1.1.9 and bed autoleveling with it. I used a 8mm induction probe (like the Pinda in size, very cheap) and made a holder for it. It puts the probe on same Y and to the left on X. Had to change several things, like some wires on Z and inverting it (I kept the z endstop as safety), and mixed both with a diode. I wanted to activate advanced filament change and filament runout but the board has not enough memory so I've ordered a board from a CR-10S and I'll try to configure Marlin to work with it. It has an Atmega2560 on it and a bunch more pins available to add nicieties, hehehehe... If memory allows me probably it will end having controlled fans to cut noise when not printing. I'm going to try the noise dampeners too, but I think that the stepper whine may be fixed just when I replace the steppers with powerfuller ones.
Great post! I have a spare MK3 pinda probe, they are cheap. Planning to experiment with it as a DIT ABL solution. Also found a mainboard I'd like to test for printers with limitations like this. Good luck finishing your mods!
If you have purchased a Ender 3 in the past 6 months the Extruder wheel no longer seems to work as they use a different motor or something and there is no axle to attach it to because it is flat.
Thank you for your vids on Ender3, being new to 3D printing and the Ender 3 ... all the help I can get is appreciated
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Love that you're able to use Octolapse in your videos! Thanks!
Still planning to contact you to discuss the workings before I make my follow up video. Getting pretty well on top of it now.
Actually, those damper feet aren't the best idea. If you watch the printer closely during printing, they can allow the printer to sway and resonate as the axes move back and forth rapidly, and introduce ghosting into your prints. A much better solution are one of the "squash ball" feet designs which provides vibration isolation while keeping the machine stable and sway-free. I paired the squash ball feet with a slab of concrete paver stone to create a super quiet and stable platform for my printer.
Nathan Rollins Agree these feets are quieten the printer but make prints bad...checkout th-cam.com/video/Ws1JfHl3Y0o/w-d-xo.html i got a 50x50cm playground rubber pavor under my printers quiet and no strange artifacts on the print. Even MK3 rubber feet are bad.
3D Gussner I've not seen any negative side effects from the feet. No ghosting or similar artifacts.
The linked video shows that those feet can indeed lower resonant frequencies of the printer and increase amplitudes of vibrations.
Now I feel a bit bad because I sent Michael a message requesting a review of them - mostly because I wanted to see a measurement of how much noise they actually reduce. I felt they were a huge factor in quieting down my printer.
I hope other persons' prints don't suffer from this.
I have the larger versions of these feet on my cr-10s, and they do indeed quieten the printer a bit, but they do have a negative impact on print quality.
RedHotBagel Don't feel bad as I tried also different feets/solutions to get my printer quieter and with some prints the quality was good but some got quite bad. My final solution is the rubber playground pavor.
It's an easy mod to remove if you don't like it. RedHotBagel sorry I didn't test it more thoroughly for noise. I would have had to remove all of my dampers to get a reliable before and after.
Others say that it may be easier to put a track over the wire coupling. Little links to keep it smooth together.
That's cool I was gonna look up an enclosure for a raspberry pi to tidy up an octopi install it's good to see that's pretty readily available.
Great videos. BUT, black printed parts on a black printer don't really show up. So ideally could be done in a brighter colour so we can see how they fit a bit easier.
My filament guides didn't work out that well because similar materials(PLA) rubbing caused a hum when the filament was dragged through.
FYI I read elswhere about using plumbers teflon tape to stop that so the filament slides over ery well....
It's nitpicking I know but don't drill out and force a M5 screw in these. It's really easy to screw up and wallow out the hole bigger than the M5. It might not matter for this particular thing, but just spend a few bucks on an M5 tap and just do it right the first time.
I don't have an Ender 3 but I like the way you presented all these! Featured on my nightly show Today in 3D
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
I took some of the packing foam that it came with, cut it to the width of the extrusion, and doubled it over. It works amazingly as an insulator from my desk. So much quieter.
Great tip.
Love these videos. Would love to see some newer 3d parts to upgrade ender 3.
Or you can buy a tap for the size you want or cut relief grooves in the bolt you used to would be a lot easier to do that
I have a tap and die set but thought it better to cover a solution using more common tools.
Just got my Ender 3 and it seems they have made some improvements. It now comes with better tube fittings (or so it seems as they dont let go of the tube very easy) and also e few of those clips to secure them, no need to print any.
Better cable management will eliminate the need for the piece preventing cable snags on the frame. I don't understand why people are so quick to print a solution to an easily rectified problem. I'm pretty OCD about keeping my cable organization clean and tidy. This aside, great content! Keep up the good work!
I agree. I will say I wish manufacturers would. Put emphasis on cable management rather than leaving it to individuals to work it out. Put together another mk3 this week and remembered how well it is done on that.
There is a much better cable management clip for the rear www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858 that you attach to the top of the stepper motor and you don't see cable catch to the frame on the rear left with it.
These videos are going to come in very handy. I am ordering an Ender 3 in two weeks as my first printer. Subbed.
Welcome aboard.
Good tips, interesting approach to the cable snag problem. Want to pull the trigger on the printer, but... I couldn't really find out where to drop that code on the Banggood web site. Normally I don't ask for help shopping. But there is a code.....
I just checked and the printer is on sale for even cheaper than the coupon allows. Probably why it's not working.
Teaching Tech thanks for checking, ordered yesterday anyway.
I like going back and watching these old videos of you; you look so young!!
Where you put the SD adapter is so much better than where I keep seeing people put it (next to the LCD, especially if you want to print a tray for that space). I feel like there's a better solution for the LCD cable than just "stick it underneath". It looks messy. Maybe there's a tray file that has room for the cable?
This is what I like about open source! Community always makes a project wonderful and nails all the problems! Is there a place I can buy this printer in South Africa? Great video!
Thank you for continuing to add mods the ender 3
Hello, I received my Ender 3 yesterday and things are going well, yay. Had some issues with the z-axis bar since I didn't push it deep enough and a noob needs about 20 minutes to notice the whole Z thing wasn't going up. Anyhows, I have a question about that tray. Which one shall take from thingieverse? The updated one for my ender 3 since it's recent? Or the first edition there? Thanks alot, a totally over the top excited newbie! o//
Excellent video and I really love the time lapses. I did want to mention that the link to the raspberry pi case is borked.
Thanks for pointing that out, should be fixed now.
Looks good now. Thanks again for all the hard work putting together these videos!
Thanks again, ill add a few of these mods to my own upgrade list :) keep these Ender3 vids coming :)
The GOOD news in Cura, my printer was not listed, so I added Ender-3 Neo now working in the center.
Hey Michael great video and ideas, as always enjoyed the tech and tips.
Never use dampener feet. They can cause distortions in your print. A foam or rubber pad under the printer would be a better solution.
As I said in the video I wasn't going to be using the feet. Very easy to remove if you are noticing artefacts.
Great work TT keep it up. I have not ordered my Ender 3 yet awesome video
Nice video!! Like the series. How about installing some TMC2130 stepper motor drivers, they seem to work magic on quieting a printer.
Can't do it on this one as the drivers are integrated into the main board.
My Ender 3 Pro came with the Bowdin tube clips.
Mine too
Looks like you have the newer belt tensioner. Mine is single sided.
If you follow the link he has a single sided version too.
Lots of nice mods, The RPI case will definitely work for my Ender 3 I have been struggling with the settings for OctoLapse, your doing exactly what I want for my timelapse. Any way you can replay your settings for the Ender 3 in regards to Octolapse. Thank You
I have a video coming up on how to get the Octolapses pretty close to perfect. It will explain everything. Just need to finishing designing a movable arm for the cheap web cam I am recommending.
Instead of printing the anti-snag endcap I printed cable chains. They work really well.
Thanks for all the advise and tips for this printer. I was wondering though, do you also plan on installing a filament runout sensor that stops the prints? Is this possible with the ender 3? I'm using mine at work (a high school) and the ability to automatically stop prints until the next morning if the filament runs out overnight would be invaluable. I can't seem to find much info with the EZOut and this printer. Thanks again!
hello got my ender to day :) thank you for all the tips:), they have upgaded some stuff on mine. the logo thing is not glue`d to the bed and you can take it off easy. and it looks like they have changed the tube. and the cabel thing has been redone :) but down loded all the upgades to have some thing to print :D so far evrything has been the dream :D and for all your good tips of the ender 3 content :D
Hi Javier, thanks for the nice feedback. Glad to hear they are updating the printer. I'm excited for your new hobby, may it bring you much joy.
@@TeachingTech tnx :D btw one thing to add to the ender 3.. first layer shoud be heated to 75 and after go down to 60 for the rest. it looks like i printed on glass :) relly happy i whent inn to this hobby :D keep up the god videos :D and agen tnx for all the tips :)
everyone should have a carbon tube at home =D good one. but over all, good video. i had the clips for bovden tube already in package, but that's at the end of 2022.
Michael, This video was excellent. I was on the fence about getting this printer, but after watching your videos this printer is fantastic with just a few minor modifications. I will be ordering this printer sometime next week, I will be sure to include the upgrades that you have suggested in other videos. Upgrades like the Marlin 1.1.9 firmware, thermal runaway protection, EZABL bed leveling sensor and the stepper motor dampers for the x-axis and y-axis. Keep the content coming!! P.S. my name's Michael too! LOL!
Hi Michael, I started a Michael Club at school as a joke. Only me and two students. At one stage we had a logo, hand sign and even a meeting :D Glad to be of service, enjoy your new printer.
Whats the upsides to converting to OctoPrint with the RasPi? Why not keep the original controller?
No need to juggle SD cards, ability to monitor printer from anywhere the house or indeed the world, and most importatly for me, the ability to make Octolapses like you saw in this video.
Teaching Tech cool, I've just ordered an Ender 3 yesterday so I'm gonna optimize it with some of the parts you're showing. Thanks for the reply. 😊
Iv upgraded mine with metal slot wheels on the Y axis. Something is wrong with the 20x40, it was cutting into the origernal wheels, the hardened plastic ones but these full steel ones are cutting back :D. The paint is too thick making the edge pointy.
Thanks for sharing, interesting mod.
Bought an Ender 3 over Christmas for 160€. Best buy ever
I'd recommend the creality version of the ultrabase for the ender 3, just put 3 clips and you finally have a flat print surface, no need for ABL. Have you found a way to get rid of zits and hide the Z seam on the prints?
Sounds like a good tip. Planning a slicer calibration video to address what you're talking about.
Teaching Tech thanks, I am really looking forward for the calibration video as many info I found on the ender 3 don't address the advanced features (like coasting, combing, linear advance). I like the ironing feature of cura, but I hate how it draws lines across the layers while traveling
Z-lift/hop would fix that.
Teaching Tech S3D does a much better job without Z hop, and I'm not big fan of zhopping as it tends to leave marks on top surfaces
I printed your recommended Br. Boos tray and it’s really tight fit. It also covers the vent on the electronics box. Doesn’t it need to breathe?
I think if it sealed it completely it would be a problem but there are plenty of bits for it to draw air.
Is the BLTouch installation video still in the works? Been looking forward to that one. Gonna wait till I see you do it on the Ender 3 before attempting it on my CR-10 Mini which uses the same board.
Sure is. I have had the BLtouch here for a whilebut decided to install with pin27 board. Ordered weks ago but Australia post is being stupily slow. Definitely not the sender's fault. Surely it has to come any day now!
What do you think of the printed cable chain wire guides?
Thank you so much for the vid. Which camera are you using for your recordings? They look great!
Just upgraded but all of my videos to date were shot with GoPros, the main being a session 4.
Teaching Tech ah nice! But you do even the time-lapse videos with a Go Pro? Do you use Octolapse with that?
The tray never seemed to fit into the slots for me. Do newer Ender 3’s have less clearance between the bar that holds the control panel and the Y axis?
BTW, Where did you get that tri-pod stand and what camera do you use?
Also, do you have the Anet A8? What about the CR-10?
I'm using stock software on the machine, and using Cura to slice things I found on Thingiverse. I don't know how to cad yet. That will be later.
Thank You
Tom
This one was filmed with a Logitech c930 on a $5 eBay cheapy tripod. Don't have an anet or cr-10, do have a tevo Tornado which is mostly a clone. I don't use Cura but it's quite popular so I guess it must be ok.
Why not use a tap and die set to cut the treads in the extrusion?
when i clicked on dis video i literally got a heart attack because of how loud it was
Would PLA be ok for these mods?
7:34 why is your tray so wavy? I can spot a plenty of ripples in here.
Everything in this video was printed in old ABS rather than PLA. The quality definitely isn't as good as my other prints.
those waves are most likely caused by printer than material itself - those are way too regular. Does they appear on flat horizontal surfaces of your prints? For me it looks like issue described in here: www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7d1pqe/vertical_surface_ripples_banding_waves_solved/
I love your video - don't get me wrong - but I'm facing the same issue and wonder what's the cause ;)
That's a great link. I will investigate this further when my Ender 3 Pro arrives. Thanks!
Good job mate!!!
Why would they recommend it if you already managed to find 14 pr9blems, on my printer i only found 1 and that was the spoolholder
The printer worked quite well as stock. These videos make minor improvements but above all most people find it fun to print free mods.
What do you suggest I print the dampening feet out of?
hey super thanks man !!! haha i was on the first 7 part video still trying to tweak the problems etc... ( so far none of useable quality.)
Join some Ender 3 facebook groups and you'll get on top of your problems in no time.
Your octolapse settings are lookin dailed!
They're are pretty close. I have a Logitech webcam that works great but I want to provide a cheaper option, so I have some cheaper webcams on the way to test before I make my follow up octolapse video.
Teaching Tech yeah I'm using a raspberry pi v2 webcam and the picture is nowhere near as clean as yours. Looks like I'll have to check out your upcoming vid!
Good Job. Very helpful
How tall is the Ender 3 if you use a freestanding filament spool holder? I'm tryna figure out if it will fit in my shelf.
excellent channel. I just bought an ender 3 and I have problems with printing on the Z axis the printing starts well but after about 10 minutes El Paso starts to get smaller and smaller. to the point that the print of the cube of 2 x2x2 is 2x2x 0.7. will you have any reference to this ... ???
Very strange. Haven't come across this before.
The Micro SD to SD card extender also exists in 25cm . Will this one work fine ?
Should do.
What material have you used to print the vibration dampening feet?
You put in the honerable mention of the Pi case. Any video or recommendation on how to convert it over to using a pi?
122/5000
Greetings. What do you consider is a better option specifically in the print quality: ender 3 or jgaurora a5? Thank you
I haven't tested the jgaurora so I can't give any advice on it sorry. Maker's Muse has review.
hi ..can you help me, i have a small prob with my ender 3.. it doesnt print circle things right..its a bit oval
Tension both belts. I had the same issue at one stage, my y was loose. I think I covered this on the cap tube video.
watching this video made me realize that my feet i made for my ender 3 pro aren't on all the way and that's why I've been having bed leveling issues. not relevant to the video but thanks to the TH-cam algorithm for making my brain function XD
oh bruh! DONT EVER USE DAMPER FEET! the problem is,that its possible your screws get loose.. i use a concrete slab works perfect!
As i said in the video I wasn't going to use them.
2 vertical extrusions in the kit and I managed to f..k up their installation 5 times :D
>Easy upgrades
>step 1: drill a hole
>me: o_0
Were you printing within an enclosure to use the ABS?
Nope. For these small prints there is negligible warping.
Hi, bud just finished assembling my new Ender 3 printer, however, the LCD display is showing blank. I am sure I have assembled everything correctly. any suggestions as to why this could be happening could it be faulty. any help will be much appreciated.
Open up the panel above the electronics and check the ribbon cable is plugged in properly. Also check the other end of this cable behind the LCD.
Teaching Tech, thank you for replying much appreciated. the ribbon has a small break along one wire found the issue :)
Hey, I remember you mention doing a video on upgrading a printer with .9 degree steppers? Do you know where I could find that? Do they really work to make better prints or does microstepping make it a wash?
This is done using Octopi with the Octolapse plugin. It is run off of a Raspberry Pi. I do the same thing, and can tell Octolapse that on a layer change, move to these coordinates, wait a second, take a picture, then go back to printing
It was my Frankendoodle video. Next part of that is coming after the Micro Swiss metal hot end arrives. I haven't done any back to back testing on the stepers, but it would make an interesting video.
You can in theory get better resolution but I didn't notice any difference when I tried them, they're a tad quieter though.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
what filament material are you using for the mods?
Do you have that link for that mini SD to SD card adapter
when your printing these parts, what filament are you using?
I though i heard abs
do you have an ender-3 profile which we can download an import in Cura please? c:
Don't use Cura sorry.
Hi great vid I have a question my extruder make a lot of noise it sounds like an old dot matrix printer do you get this sound? And if so is there a way to spot it or at least reduce how loud it is? Thanks
Mine is only loud on fast retractions. If yours is like this then that is normal. 3D printers are unfortunately not very quiet. There are some way to quieten them such as this: th-cam.com/video/vu80vctXaxQ/w-d-xo.html
Do you still use the SD card adapter?
Enjoy your videos btw..Laurie
Thanks for watching :)
I would like to see something like this on the wanhao d9
i am a noob to 3 d printing I know the ender 3 prints pla no problemm but can it use abs and other filimants with the stock configuration?