An unusually clear, pedagogical, and actually useful instructional video. It might be worth noting the stacking the rope on the ledge, or across one’s feet, are other options worth considering.
I get rid of the "bermuda triangle" before flaking. Just a bite of rope passed through the belay loop holds it out of the way just fine. I also pull up double the length of flake needed and flip it over. It's easier when maintaining the brake hand at all times.
Stacking the rope with shorter loops if the follower is going to lead the next pitch. Stacking the rope longer the belayer needs to flip the rope to the follower if that belayer is going to lead the next pitch.
Problem with this technique: is is harder to escape. In Addition in multipitch you have to switch leading, it is hard to "give" the rope to the climbing partner. I usually use my legs to do the loops, partner can step in, and i'm free. If you are using your legs, the rope is at a lower point and doesn't obstruct your anchor setup.
Jan Hoersch if swapping leads the rope is all flaked and ready for the next person to lead. If it's one person doing all the leading than you can just flop the rope over onto the belayers tether and it's all set. It's the accepted system and works well.
Maybe the ropes get tangled, maybe you need to flip flop the whole pile so you can be in the lead end again, maybe you're belaying with two ropes, maybe you can't see your belayer, maybe there's a ton of drag, ya never know
some articles might argue that you should not be clipped into the shelf when the master point is immediately available.... why create such awkward angles from the force of the climbers weight when you can bare all the weight in one immediate downward direction on the central point.
Good point/question. When belaying someone up, I've found that having the personal tether/clove and the belay device both on the masterpoint can create some frustrations. I've found that the grigri feeds smoother when it's alone on the masterpoint.
Interessting video, short with the information needed. I just go a question: I'm from Switzerland and (trad) climbing myself. So I'm familiar with building anchors and so on. A thing wich I don't get in all these american videos (sorry for generalysing) is whats up with that shelf thing? We always learn to put everything into the Main Loop! Because if you don't you have not full redundancy on your personal lifeline. I'm Looking forward to your opinion. Regards Sam
Clipping into shelf can be done redundantly as well. But you must clip both legs of the anchor! The reason for the shelf is to separate the leaders anchor tie in from the seconds. This reduces confusion and keeps the ropes a little more organized. That is my understanding!
Best to use the shelf as a place to clip a reverso style device. Clip into the master point (main loop) for tie in / tether. You never want to be clipped into the shelf with nothing clipped into the master point because there is the possibility of the knot slipping and opening from a large force in the shelf (this is especially an issue for slippery dynemma slings). That’s not to say you can’t get away with just using the shelf without anything in the master point but it makes me feel uneasy.
You could use a pas if you want, but your rope can act as a built in Pas and save bulk and weight. Plus your rope is far more dynamic then a typical Pas. Also, its not like you're hanging on a single piece. You're rope may not be redundant but your anchor is. Plus, you're rope is never redundant in the first place, unless you're climbing with double ropes.
I don't carry a pas. I just use the rope I'm already tied into. It's safer, and more adjustable. I only use a pas (tether, cowtail, sling, etc) when rappelling.
It seems your really trust that anchor to be laying all the way back like that, just wondering on a real steep pitch would you still do that. Looks pretty bad ass, but I guess that confidence would depend on how secure you felt in anchor, looks bad ass
he is connected to a central point which is connected to several anchors... and if you got well set modern bolts, a single one should be usually hold you well, a real risk of pulling them out of the wall is rather created when someone falls and creates a sudden, strong force on the bolt
Good on you for giving instructional videos a go! Your style is too casual and vague for me when learning about technical climbing skills, some of which are life-critical. If this was the first time trying to learn these skills, I would feel like I need to go and find another video to fill in the vague details. Hopefully this is taken as constructive feedback rather than criticism! 😅
I only uploaded it for part of a college class where we looked at teaching styles. It was only a snippet of the whole lesson. For some reason it went viral 🤷♂️
An unusually clear, pedagogical, and actually useful instructional video. It might be worth noting the stacking the rope on the ledge, or across one’s feet, are other options worth considering.
I get rid of the "bermuda triangle" before flaking. Just a bite of rope passed through the belay loop holds it out of the way just fine. I also pull up double the length of flake needed and flip it over. It's easier when maintaining the brake hand at all times.
Stacking the rope with shorter loops if the follower is going to lead the next pitch. Stacking the rope longer the belayer needs to flip the rope to the follower if that belayer is going to lead the next pitch.
thanks for the clarification!
Problem with this technique: is is harder to escape. In Addition in multipitch you have to switch leading, it is hard to "give" the rope to the climbing partner. I usually use my legs to do the loops, partner can step in, and i'm free. If you are using your legs, the rope is at a lower point and doesn't obstruct your anchor setup.
Jan Hoersch if swapping leads the rope is all flaked and ready for the next person to lead. If it's one person doing all the leading than you can just flop the rope over onto the belayers tether and it's all set. It's the accepted system and works well.
At 3:24 "There are always a few more things that come into play and complications..." What are they?
Maybe the ropes get tangled, maybe you need to flip flop the whole pile so you can be in the lead end again, maybe you're belaying with two ropes, maybe you can't see your belayer, maybe there's a ton of drag, ya never know
some articles might argue that you should not be clipped into the shelf when the master point is immediately available.... why create such awkward angles from the force of the climbers weight when you can bare all the weight in one immediate downward direction on the central point.
shelves are for water bottles
Good point/question. When belaying someone up, I've found that having the personal tether/clove and the belay device both on the masterpoint can create some frustrations. I've found that the grigri feeds smoother when it's alone on the masterpoint.
Interessting video, short with the information needed. I just go a question:
I'm from Switzerland and (trad) climbing myself. So I'm familiar with building anchors and so on. A thing wich I don't get in all these american videos (sorry for generalysing) is whats up with that shelf thing? We always learn to put everything into the Main Loop! Because if you don't you have not full redundancy on your personal lifeline.
I'm Looking forward to your opinion.
Regards Sam
The shelf is totally redundant if you clip through the loop created by the cord or sling of every leg of the anchor.
Clipping into shelf can be done redundantly as well. But you must clip both legs of the anchor! The reason for the shelf is to separate the leaders anchor tie in from the seconds. This reduces confusion and keeps the ropes a little more organized. That is my understanding!
Best to use the shelf as a place to clip a reverso style device. Clip into the master point (main loop) for tie in / tether. You never want to be clipped into the shelf with nothing clipped into the master point because there is the possibility of the knot slipping and opening from a large force in the shelf (this is especially an issue for slippery dynemma slings). That’s not to say you can’t get away with just using the shelf without anything in the master point but it makes me feel uneasy.
Showing them how its done!
Is it ok to call off belay if you're only on the rope and not even using a PaS? Shouldn't your system be redundant?
You could use a pas if you want, but your rope can act as a built in Pas and save bulk and weight. Plus your rope is far more dynamic then a typical Pas.
Also, its not like you're hanging on a single piece. You're rope may not be redundant but your anchor is. Plus, you're rope is never redundant in the first place, unless you're climbing with double ropes.
Why did you unclip your PAS (personal anchor system)?
I don't carry a pas. I just use the rope I'm already tied into. It's safer, and more adjustable. I only use a pas (tether, cowtail, sling, etc) when rappelling.
@@Nev4 Why not SERENE?
Serene is an acronym for anchors, not person tethering systems
It seems your really trust that anchor to be laying all the way back like that, just wondering on a real steep pitch would you still do that. Looks pretty bad ass, but I guess that confidence would depend on how secure you felt in anchor, looks bad ass
he is connected to a central point which is connected to several anchors... and if you got well set modern bolts, a single one should be usually hold you well, a real risk of pulling them out of the wall is rather created when someone falls and creates a sudden, strong force on the bolt
If he would not dare to weigh the anchors, why would he dare belay from it? That anchor is built to withstand much greater loads.
Good on you for giving instructional videos a go! Your style is too casual and vague for me when learning about technical climbing skills, some of which are life-critical. If this was the first time trying to learn these skills, I would feel like I need to go and find another video to fill in the vague details. Hopefully this is taken as constructive feedback rather than criticism! 😅
I only uploaded it for part of a college class where we looked at teaching styles. It was only a snippet of the whole lesson. For some reason it went viral 🤷♂️
@@Nev4 Funny how videos are random like that. It came up in my recommended videos! 🤣
You look like you're in a haunted forest or something.
dear oh dear, I would not climb with you, we would be there all day, climb fast climb safe
Dear oh dear, I wouldn't climb with you, Richard - you're a jackass.
Why not SERENE?!
The video is about stacking the rope. SERENE is about building the anchor.