Sorry my friend - your clip did not convince me after all. Here some Thoughts that came up when viewing it. 1. a cheap airbrush has several disadvantages compared to a high end airbrush. I used cheap ones on first hand but for 5 years i have been usng the H&S Evolution and this ist the best you can get. it is easy to operate, to clean, you get spareparts and finally the work makes more fun. 2. the compressor is another issue. the Fengda or Sparmax is (for me) too noisy and i sold it buying a silent compressor type Sil Air 20A - 30dbA is half of 40 dbA and you do not hear it when it runs. 3. Vallejo PU primer is not suitable if you using masking tape after the priming layer. The primer sticks to the masking tape thus ruining the result. I got rid of vallejo PU for my personal use and switched to Mr.Primer 1000 and 1500 with great results! 4. Vallejo colors must never be used in combination with others like Tamiya, AK Gunze or Mig as the Isopropanol thinner of the mentioned brands are leading to clogging when using vallejo afterwards. I abandoned vallejo from my color stash in between 5. cleaning the airbrush is much easier than your way if you hold the airbrush in a pot of water. i saw that you used 3 or 4 times the (expensive) airbrush cleaner which is wasted liquid! 6. NEVER EVER pull the needle backwards out of the brush at it will destroy the back seal in due time! 7. when using a duble action airbrush always operati it in the correct sequence: 1. air on 2. color on 3. color off 4. air off. If you have no air flow the needle has to be in the close position. this avaoids the collection of color droplets on the needle and gives a better spay result. 8. if you clean the airbrush you also have to clean the nozzle inside! just have some cleaner spraying will not clean the nozzle inside.
@@michepouliot6664 I apply it with the cheapest airbrush at 20 psi/1,5 bar with a 0,3 mm nozzle. The tearing you experienced happens because the primer isn't dry yet. It does dry to the touch very quickly. However it's based on a polyurethane and needs 48 hrs drying time. Also shake the bottle really well before use as you never know how long it was sitting in a warehose or shop. For hard to reach areas I lower the pressure to 15 psi not to flood them and obscure the detail. This way I end up with a very resistant layer of primer and can apply any sort of paint over it.
@@rafaelvoncina6036 I disagree about the tearing. I recently tried to gently sand Vallejo grey primer which I sprayed 5 years ago. It tore just the same as if were only a couple of days old. If you won't need to sand it, Vallejo's primer is excellent but it will tear.
Thx this helped me i Join in the art of sir brushing
I tried the white one and it was really rough (spraying at 1.5 with 0.4mm nozzle )
This primmer need thinner of only use primmer..?
Sorry my friend - your clip did not convince me after all. Here some Thoughts that came up when viewing it.
1. a cheap airbrush has several disadvantages compared to a high end airbrush. I used cheap ones on first hand but for 5 years i have been usng the H&S Evolution and this ist the best you can get. it is easy to operate, to clean, you get spareparts and finally the work makes more fun.
2. the compressor is another issue. the Fengda or Sparmax is (for me) too noisy and i sold it buying a silent compressor type Sil Air 20A - 30dbA is half of 40 dbA and you do not hear it when it runs.
3. Vallejo PU primer is not suitable if you using masking tape after the priming layer. The primer sticks to the masking tape thus ruining the result. I got rid of vallejo PU for my personal use and switched to Mr.Primer 1000 and 1500 with great results!
4. Vallejo colors must never be used in combination with others like Tamiya, AK Gunze or Mig as the Isopropanol thinner of the mentioned brands are leading to clogging when using vallejo afterwards. I abandoned vallejo from my color stash in between
5. cleaning the airbrush is much easier than your way if you hold the airbrush in a pot of water. i saw that you used 3 or 4 times the (expensive) airbrush cleaner which is wasted liquid!
6. NEVER EVER pull the needle backwards out of the brush at it will destroy the back seal in due time!
7. when using a duble action airbrush always operati it in the correct sequence: 1. air on 2. color on 3. color off 4. air off. If you have no air flow the needle has to be in the close position. this avaoids the collection of color droplets on the needle and gives a better spay result.
8. if you clean the airbrush you also have to clean the nozzle inside! just have some cleaner spraying will not clean the nozzle inside.
Can you sand back imperfections or does it tear? Needle size?
Ian Smith. No. It tears, which is why I never use it. Stynylrez sands out well though.
@@michepouliot6664 I apply it with the cheapest airbrush at 20 psi/1,5 bar with a 0,3 mm nozzle. The tearing you experienced happens because the primer isn't dry yet. It does dry to the touch very quickly. However it's based on a polyurethane and needs 48 hrs drying time. Also shake the bottle really well before use as you never know how long it was sitting in a warehose or shop.
For hard to reach areas I lower the pressure to 15 psi not to flood them and obscure the detail.
This way I end up with a very resistant layer of primer and can apply any sort of paint over it.
@@rafaelvoncina6036 I disagree about the tearing. I recently tried to gently sand Vallejo grey primer which I sprayed 5 years ago. It tore just the same as if were only a couple of days old.
If you won't need to sand it, Vallejo's primer is excellent but it will tear.
@@66PHILB Oh well, differing experiences then...
@@rafaelvoncina6036 Old post, but do you thin Vallejo primer before airbrushing?