I'll pass on my knowledge of these idi's. The power difference you feel and may hear in the engine running, is due to the electric fuel pump providing higher fuel pressure (also providing a more constant flow), which in turn actually 'slightly' advances the timing, these engines love it though (just don't go too far on timing) you'll know it when you do. The advanced timing also of course helps with power as you were stating, you're not trippin. Haha, good video though.😎
A PowerMaster 9050 will help hard starting immensely, even with air intrusion issues. I'm planning on installing this pump (why I'm here, duh) but a modern high-torque, high-revving starter is an amazing improvement as well. The old ones just don't turn fast enough, especially when you compare the cranking sound to, say, a 6.0 PowerStroke. The 9050 cranks at about that speed, and can fire off the most worn-out of IDIs in less than a second from cold.
Your leak is at your main fuel hard line that comes from your water separator. The rubber seal at the engine side shrinks up and your fuel drains back over time. The seal can be replaced using a like sized piece of fuel line, or replace the whole part. Like $26.
The lift Pump being mounted lower by the tank will help all air to exit and help the pump not to work as hard. It will also be a more reliable setup. Thanks for the video brother. Not too many people post about this issue. Keep up the great work 🤙
The electric fuel pump is just masking other issues with your system. You definitely have air intrusion and other fueling issues. You should put that pump closer to your tank so it doesn't have to work so hard. It will burn up sooner from being overworked.
You should add a inline fuse on the main feed to the relay, should there be a short or a failed pump, you don't want it to start a fire. Guessing around a 15 amp, depending on what the pump draws.
Love the shifter for the C6 . On all of these old 30+ year old trucks every piece of rubber hose o-ring olives caps need to be replaced going back to the tank . The fuel heater should be eliminated and hole plugged . The shower head in the tank should be replaced or eliminated with a straight piece of tubing .
Here's a couple more upgrades for your truck from and a 86 f250 4x4 6.9idi owner. 1. Get the K&N filter for that truck from Oriellys, it will allow you to turn the injection pump up a couple of (flats) and get a few more HP with out smoking everybody out. Basically keep turning it up until you notice a slight haze out of the tail pipe under hard exeleration. You will need to make a new top cover as the K&N is taller then the stock one, I made mine just big enough to seal the filter down and the stock bottom section became basically a splash gaurd. 2. Get some type of over drive for the c6 (gear vendors) granted i don't know what gearing you have in the axle. But in direct comparison b/w 2 86 f250 4x4 6.9idi with 4.10 gearing. Mine with a swapped ZF5 (bw 4spd to ZF5) stick shift to my buddies c6 auto. I was getting 14mpg to there 8 to 9mpg.
Thats the one i got in my IDI . Thermoking units use those, very good pumps but, i got my pump right after the fuel tank in the chassis cause is better pushing fuel ,not pulling. I got my pump for over 3 years and remove the canister to clean and put back on..
I added one of these on the passenger fender, mine is turbo charged and have noticed that between the water separator and fuel filter it drains the bowl and leaves some air, to remedy this I plan to add a second pump on the frame rail to boost the pressure through the water seperator, seems to not have enough suction and maintain at least 5 psi pressure
I watched this the other night. Very simplified. You made it look easy. I have a 93 idi that I’m heavily considering this. You should package up one complete kit and sell it as a kit with all the pieces, I’d totally buy one! I know you mentioned all the pieces and part numbers, wouldn’t be too hard to go online and get all the supplies but I was kinda meaning the fabricated bracket as well. There are several options for the fuel pump you used, what one specifically did you use?
Alternator upgrade 92 e350 130 amp 2 groove pulley Plug off the 1/4 inch return line from return rail to filter housing Check your glow plugs and while you're replacing them check your compression
see on my 90 idit i put a like 00-03 psd rail pump on it and that made a huge difference. then a year later i pulled the idit out and stuck in a 12v cummins. still using the psd rail pump tho.
Yeah. Great stuff, getting ready to R&R it's heart (HG) Then address the fuel (93 4x4 7.3 full sidewinder kit, also seen another on these re Duralift and him switching to a 40222) good lookin y'all 🤘🏼
so far I been running some kind of diesel fuel pump on mine the oem is still there and the 12 volt pump just runs after I wasn't the one who did it someone else did before i got it. It doesn't leak any fuel or have any hard start it literally just fires right up. I got a second cheapy fuel pump as my backup laying around incase it goes bad but I drive it quite a bit this year it's a 5-9 psi pump.
Awesome video. Yeah there our no good videos covering this topic so great job. Mane you have to upgrade your alternator to a 3g look it up I promise you’ll want to do it. You obviously go for the best so you’ll figure it out good luck and nice truck.
Have you done a compression check on the truck? When you showed the video of it starting after the fuel leak back you could hear the starter speed up in a area. This could be indicative of a loss of compression in a cylinder.
So, why did you put your remote reservoirs which are used to help cool the shock oil over the engine where they will get heat soaked? I like the lift pump setup. I might use this similarly for my 7.3 PSD, with the addition of a higher pressure pump in line to get to the ~60 psi I need for the fuel rail.
Hold that thing down the whole time when u are trying to bleed it to the filter. Then u can Crack the lines at the injectors. But that b pump you probably don't need too.
So I did this to my 91 almost exactly like you did, I did it a couple of years ago after reading about it in a idi group I googled, my problem is that I dont really get enough fuel, it's fine for first, second and third gear but fourth is a little iffy and fifth is a no go I can step to the floor and not get enough fuel, can you maybe think of a reason why?
Fuel pump needs to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible and as low so to ensure good fuel priming. There is a reason that fuel pumps are located on the frame rail or in the tank. Also only run a paper air filter element on a diesel. Oil soaked rag filters work only on a gas unit, if on a diesel, there is a bad risk of dusting(polishing) the cylinder bores and then you will have a poor starter and oil burning.
What year is your truck? I’ve got a 92 7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel. Will this whole kit work with my truck? Also, what did you use to seal all the fittings? Thanks man!
Would it be possible to have both the mechanical and the electric pump both in with the mechanical there as a backup? Reason I ask is because I had the alternator belt shred on me in the middle of nowhere and when I shutdown to refuel I was able to crank it back up and drive it back home (albeit in 1st and 2nd gear on the C6 transmission).
there is a starter off of a year of a power stroke I can't remember what year that fits these engines that spins it over a lot faster and helps it to crank
If lines are disconnected - what is harm in leaving pump in place - just curios - it was an absolute bitch to remove and replace already and dont want to do it again if not needed - especially if electric pump does not solve the air in the fuel problem and truck shutting off when driving - but running fine when idling.
Hey man , I know this video is old but I have this same truck and have a few questions about yours . What shock mounts are those and where can I get them?
I tested several non-turbo before I bought my 94 7.3 IDI turbo. There is a huge difference in power. Go for the turbo. Both engines will run forever if you take care of them.
The duralift pumps are great for starting the truck because it supply’s fuel as soon as you turn the key but under a heavy load it does not supply enough fuel like the mechanical fuel pump does
Don’t you have to install a fuel pressure pump cutoff switch in this case? You may burn the fuel pump if you have to leave the ignition switch ON for some reasons. Otherwise great video though
![My Go To Mods For IDI Diesel Fords [Turbos, ZF5 Trans Swap]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Gcr2-WiCmdA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll pass on my knowledge of these idi's. The power difference you feel and may hear in the engine running, is due to the electric fuel pump providing higher fuel pressure (also providing a more constant flow), which in turn actually 'slightly' advances the timing, these engines love it though (just don't go too far on timing) you'll know it when you do. The advanced timing also of course helps with power as you were stating, you're not trippin. Haha, good video though.😎
Will the advance in timing mess anything up or Will the truck be fine?
I couldn’t agree more, coming from another idi owner and lover.
A PowerMaster 9050 will help hard starting immensely, even with air intrusion issues.
I'm planning on installing this pump (why I'm here, duh) but a modern high-torque, high-revving starter is an amazing improvement as well. The old ones just don't turn fast enough, especially when you compare the cranking sound to, say, a 6.0 PowerStroke. The 9050 cranks at about that speed, and can fire off the most worn-out of IDIs in less than a second from cold.
Your leak is at your main fuel hard line that comes from your water separator. The rubber seal at the engine side shrinks up and your fuel drains back over time. The seal can be replaced using a like sized piece of fuel line, or replace the whole part. Like $26.
The lift Pump being mounted lower by the tank will help all air to exit and help the pump not to work as hard. It will also be a more reliable setup. Thanks for the video brother. Not too many people post about this issue. Keep up the great work 🤙
That’s true pumps like to push not pull
@@noka55that’s not always true. These are called DuraLIFT pumps. These are pulling pumps.
The electric fuel pump is just masking other issues with your system. You definitely have air intrusion and other fueling issues. You should put that pump closer to your tank so it doesn't have to work so hard. It will burn up sooner from being overworked.
Glad to see more content on this truck :) Still want that front suspension set up for my F-350. Just love it!
Bro I really enjoy your videos. Shout out to you Dad for teaching and encouraging them skills. So cool that you guys share common intrest.
You should add a inline fuse on the main feed to the relay, should there be a short or a failed pump, you don't want it to start a fire. Guessing around a 15 amp, depending on what the pump draws.
15 amp is to much I have a facet dura lift 40222 9-11 psi so pretty the same pump and I used a 4 amp fuse because it recommended a 3-5 amp fuse.
You and your brother are alway making the most helpful videos. Appreciate it
Love the shifter for the C6 .
On all of these old 30+ year old trucks every piece of rubber hose o-ring olives caps need to be replaced going back to the tank .
The fuel heater should be eliminated and hole plugged .
The shower head in the tank should be replaced or eliminated with a straight piece of tubing .
Idi for the win
Sick. Kibbe, Terra, AND Wingsworld. A day of new prerunner videos.
Nice install! Time for a 3g alternator swap
I’ll have to look this up 🤘🏼
Here's a couple more upgrades for your truck from and a 86 f250 4x4 6.9idi owner. 1. Get the K&N filter for that truck from Oriellys, it will allow you to turn the injection pump up a couple of (flats) and get a few more HP with out smoking everybody out. Basically keep turning it up until you notice a slight haze out of the tail pipe under hard exeleration. You will need to make a new top cover as the K&N is taller then the stock one, I made mine just big enough to seal the filter down and the stock bottom section became basically a splash gaurd. 2. Get some type of over drive for the c6 (gear vendors) granted i don't know what gearing you have in the axle. But in direct comparison b/w 2 86 f250 4x4 6.9idi with 4.10 gearing. Mine with a swapped ZF5 (bw 4spd to ZF5) stick shift to my buddies c6 auto. I was getting 14mpg to there 8 to 9mpg.
Thats the one i got in my IDI . Thermoking units use those, very good pumps but, i got my pump right after the fuel tank in the chassis cause is better pushing fuel ,not pulling. I got my pump for over 3 years and remove the canister to clean and put back on..
I added one of these on the passenger fender, mine is turbo charged and have noticed that between the water separator and fuel filter it drains the bowl and leaves some air, to remedy this I plan to add a second pump on the frame rail to boost the pressure through the water seperator, seems to not have enough suction and maintain at least 5 psi pressure
I watched this the other night. Very simplified. You made it look easy. I have a 93 idi that I’m heavily considering this. You should package up one complete kit and sell it as a kit with all the pieces, I’d totally buy one! I know you mentioned all the pieces and part numbers, wouldn’t be too hard to go online and get all the supplies but I was kinda meaning the fabricated bracket as well. There are several options for the fuel pump you used, what one specifically did you use?
Thanks for the video. For sure answered all my questions before hand.. I have turbo idi crew cab that needs to get on the road.
Alternator upgrade 92 e350 130 amp 2 groove pulley
Plug off the 1/4 inch return line from return rail to filter housing
Check your glow plugs and while you're replacing them check your compression
Check your return lines from the injectors. Any little leak will cause air to get in and cause you grief.
agreed, also a lot of people have issues with air getting in the fuel filter base. oring goes bad on the line or the heater.
this is a bandaid for that. a really good one.
see on my 90 idit i put a like 00-03 psd rail pump on it and that made a huge difference. then a year later i pulled the idit out and stuck in a 12v cummins. still using the psd rail pump tho.
Yeah. Great stuff, getting ready to R&R it's heart (HG) Then address the fuel (93 4x4 7.3 full sidewinder kit, also seen another on these re Duralift and him switching to a 40222) good lookin y'all 🤘🏼
Love the diesel build series. Can’t wait for more videos.
Well done I need to do this to my 89 F250!
Great truck👍maybe try checking the glow plugs for that hard starting but that new pump will do a big difference👍
Thanks for this video very informative
Unless I missed it I would advise an in-line fuse to power the pump. If that pump short circuits and draws 50amps your wires could burn and catch.
Glad I found you, just got an 88 f250 7.3 idi, same color as yours.
Same lol
so far I been running some kind of diesel fuel pump on mine the oem is still there and the 12 volt pump just runs after I wasn't the one who did it someone else did before i got it. It doesn't leak any fuel or have any hard start it literally just fires right up. I got a second cheapy fuel pump as my backup laying around incase it goes bad but I drive it quite a bit this year it's a 5-9 psi pump.
Drainback.
Park facing downhill or replace your return line spring check ball
Thanks for this helped me a lot
Awesome video. Yeah there our no good videos covering this topic so great job. Mane you have to upgrade your alternator to a 3g look it up I promise you’ll want to do it. You obviously go for the best so you’ll figure it out good luck and nice truck.
Badass truck!
Have you done a compression check on the truck? When you showed the video of it starting after the fuel leak back you could hear the starter speed up in a area. This could be indicative of a loss of compression in a cylinder.
So, why did you put your remote reservoirs which are used to help cool the shock oil over the engine where they will get heat soaked? I like the lift pump setup. I might use this similarly for my 7.3 PSD, with the addition of a higher pressure pump in line to get to the ~60 psi I need for the fuel rail.
Have you cleaned the filter on the facet yet? Having issues taking my clear fuel bowl off
Hold that thing down the whole time when u are trying to bleed it to the filter. Then u can Crack the lines at the injectors. But that b pump you probably don't need too.
Let your glow plugs cycle all the way if your glow plug relay starts clicking on and off you know you have a bad glow plug or glow plug wires.
How would an electronic fuel pump be better? A mechanical pump allows you to run the truck after an emp blast.....just saying.
Need to do the 1g to 3g alternator conversion. And get rid of the battery light and the shit 1g alternator. Love the build though.
whats that connector called?
So I did this to my 91 almost exactly like you did, I did it a couple of years ago after reading about it in a idi group I googled, my problem is that I dont really get enough fuel, it's fine for first, second and third gear but fourth is a little iffy and fifth is a no go I can step to the floor and not get enough fuel, can you maybe think of a reason why?
Have you tried the "Ford Truck Enthusiast" website.....I know they sure helped me with my 6.0 liter.
Fuel pump needs to be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible and as low so to ensure good fuel priming. There is a reason that fuel pumps are located on the frame rail or in the tank. Also only run a paper air filter element on a diesel. Oil soaked rag filters work only on a gas unit, if on a diesel, there is a bad risk of dusting(polishing) the cylinder bores and then you will have a poor starter and oil burning.
The Facet Duralift pump is capable of 120 inches of vertical lift; it's designed to pull and is perfect for this installation.
People need to go do their damn homework 😒
7:58 looks like a gnarly crimp in that hard line. Might be your air leak...
I have an extra turbo kit with a rebuilt turbo for sale if you guys want it, I’d like to see this truck back on the channel
Hard starting???? Try Gear reduction started from Power Master. Turns it over quicker making cylinders heat up faster equalling faster start.
Thanks for this! What did you use to cut the fuel rail??
What year is your truck? I’ve got a 92 7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel. Will this whole kit work with my truck? Also, what did you use to seal all the fittings? Thanks man!
Sick video bradah! 🤘😎
Do you need to remove and block off old pump?
Does it get better fuel miles?
Have a idi with a air dog 110 pump from a 12v dodge with a rnd idi 110 injection pump
Would it be possible to have both the mechanical and the electric pump both in with the mechanical there as a backup? Reason I ask is because I had the alternator belt shred on me in the middle of nowhere and when I shutdown to refuel I was able to crank it back up and drive it back home (albeit in 1st and 2nd gear on the C6 transmission).
there is a starter off of a year of a power stroke I can't remember what year that fits these engines that spins it over a lot faster and helps it to crank
If lines are disconnected - what is harm in leaving pump in place - just curios - it was an absolute bitch to remove and replace already and dont want to do it again if not needed - especially if electric pump does not solve the air in the fuel problem and truck shutting off when driving - but running fine when idling.
I have to keep hitting that valve to get air out any idea why its doing that each time on cold start
Thanks for the idi content!
Awesome idea, one question, how many psi is the electric pump to compare to existing mechanical pump.
By the way I have the twin to that truck in Kansas it's getting a power stroke this spring
I heard you actually supposed to change glow plugs like spark plugs
Thanks for the video. What is the part number for the male side of the pumps electrical and where did you find it. Thanks
Curious as to in warm climates (Im in FL)you can omit one battery as you can with the 12 valve. Anyone know?
What is the advantage of upgrading your fuel pump?
Will this work on a powerstroke
Did y'all get the slow starting issue figured out. How well has the faucet been doing on it so far
What's the part number for the plug on the pump? Having trouble finding it
👍💯
I wonder if it has the same rules as like a holley, like holley would say it mounted to high above fuel levels. 🤔
Hey man , I know this video is old but I have this same truck and have a few questions about yours . What shock mounts are those and where can I get them?
About time
Did you bypass the mechanical fuel pump?
Get a Powermaster starter. I promise you won't be unhappy.
Is the 7.3 idi a good first diesel I’m 16 and there’s one for sale
Always good.
For a 6.9l with aftermarket turbo, Is there any reason to get the 9-11PSI vs the 4-7psi pump you are using?
It will advance the timing and it will screw up the injection pump somehow. 7psi max lift pump pressure.
@wildrosegarage4208 the IP has a internal regulator. 9-11 psi will NOT hurt the IP at all buddy. Do your homework kid.
How many mpg do you get and did it change with that manual shifter
Can you send the relay diagram ?
What’s the size fuel line ? I seen different people do different things
Is she still running good? Did the pump work out?
About to do this duralift mod on my 7.3 idi that the mechanical lift died on
Love the idi content. You still planning on putting a turbo on it?
How’d you install the new shifter?
winter shifter I hve seen this in another video but didn't know what the deal was, still don't.
You replaced the high pressure diesel pump? How you resolve the timing?
He replaced the lift pump, not the injection pump.
How do u put a manual shifter on a C6
🤙
When are you guys going to turbo it
How is it after 2 years
I'm looking at buying a 7.3 idi non turbo, would you recommend it?
I tested several non-turbo before I bought my 94 7.3 IDI turbo. There is a huge difference in power. Go for the turbo. Both engines will run forever if you take care of them.
👍
The duralift pumps are great for starting the truck because it supply’s fuel as soon as you turn the key but under a heavy load it does not supply enough fuel like the mechanical fuel pump does
if you had good batteries it will start easier those sound dead af. it needs speed to start
Are you still using both tanks for this electric fuel pump
I am and I did mine the same way
How much is that bumper
Turbo coming?
Don’t you have to install a fuel pressure pump cutoff switch in this case? You may burn the fuel pump if you have to leave the ignition switch ON for some reasons. Otherwise great video though
Why didn’t you install the same fuel pump as 99 or newer diesel which might be easier because it’s in line pump?
@@user-ry4mv4no2e the PSD pumps create too much pressure for the IDI’s. We only need 10psi while the PSD needs roughly 60psi.
It cuts power from the IP and the pump because their wired in together. Do your damn research kid.
Sounds like you need a battery.
Get a high torque starter
Yeaaaaa cummins swap that donkey
lol dt360 or go home
@@pilgrim666butters junk
Not with an idi eff that. that thing is a tank. cummins are cool but so are idis.
obviously you say obviously alot