had 2 Delta Pro 3 ( DP3 ) units running in parallel with their 50 AMP hub bridge. One of the units was defective and caused a tremendous power surge which fried my HVAC thermostat and ECU, coffee maker, Air Purifier, GFCI outlets, and over a dozen outlet surge protectors and damaged 2, 200 AMP breaker panels. The damages have run into the thousands. One electrician who inspected my system told me that one of his customers had a similar problem with his EF Ultra except that he didn't have the unit hooked up to the home. I like the EF Delta 2 Max batteries, but the EF DP3 and the bridge is not good. $12,000 of damage was done.
I have a question. So I can leave my rv agm battery in place and tap the Anderson port to the battery. There is no issue with the agm back feeding the EcoFlow? What if I have solar charging the agm while it’s hooked up to the EcoFlow Anderson ports?
AGM and lithium batteries generally don't play well together. I'm not sure if they have any special protection underneath the hood of the Echoflow so I wouldn't do it personally.
The DP3 is going to be putting out a constant 13.6 or whatever DC voltage (I'm guessing on the exact amount). Your "house battery" is expecting to be connected to the converter of your RV which handles the necessary charging voltages for float, charge, maybe even a desulfate cycle if it has that feature. Basically you'd be swapping out the smart(er) charging of your converter for what amounts to a dumb battery charger that knows nothing about your battery chemistry, and you could end up damaging the longevity of it. You might be able to find a dc-dc converter that handles the appropriate charging and you could put in between the house batteries and whatever DC voltage you're pumping into the system, but apart from that I'd just install a battery cutoff so you could isolate the batteries from whatever else, and switch back and forth as needed so only one at a time is connected to the RV. It's kind of the same situation if you're hooking up your tow vehicle via the 7-way... there's 12V coming from your truck to the trailer's battery but usually we're talking about lead-acid on the truck and lead-acid (either flooded or AGM) on the trailer so it's not a big deal. It's also probably not a big deal short term to have an AGM hooked up to a constant 13.6-13.8 but long term it'll cause issues. You want the float voltage lower or you're just cooking the poor thing. Addendum: I checked, and the DC output on mine is 12.69V so it's not as high as I thought it might be, more of a nominal 12V. So it may actually be fine since a float voltage for SLA/AGM is higher than that. Don't expect this to charge your batteries, but at least it shouldn't harm them. You have a situation where the house batteries are at a higher potential than what the DP3 would put out though, and I assume the DP3 has reverse current protection but you might get other interesting side effects where the DP3 isn't actually providing any of the actual current, it'll all come from the batteries. Something to consider.
Ya. Were you able to watch the segment in the video where I connected the solar panels up? I would pick up some solar panels similar to those if I were you. If you buy similar solar panels, You should be able to connect to 9 solar panels to that unit... if you want to have the maximum solar input.
Send that thing over to me to test out after you get done evaluating it😝 It seems to me though that by including 2 different charge controllers in the unit that it will end up with some users getting the 2 different ports confused and plugging solar power into the wrong one and damaging the unit.. I think of it like military hardware.. you have to make it grunt proof.. or maybe wife proof.. either way, I'm pretty sure that there will be some units being damaged because of this. It's just easier when both charge controllers are identical so that you can't confuse them in my opinion.
Interesting that Ecoflow added more battery capacity but still left the input (solar) to 150V like the Delta Pro. not sure why they would do that -- especially if you have extra batteries connected and such. Weird.
They are losing sales and money on their over priced equipment. I like their products don't get me wrong. I just can't see these mass adopted for the price. Best way to get into these are open box and refurbished. Then you see true prices thanks Ray
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay ebay has a bunch of them and now that they have the oh so powerful delta 3, I'm sure you'll see the prices going down significantly
You want to look at the back of the solar panel to see the voltage. When you connect them in series the voltage will double but you don't want to go over the allowed voltage on power system specs. Hope that makes sense
This was very informative, thank you. I am thinking of buying this unit, but I have added the wattage of what I will need to run certain electronics at home, and came up with 3500 watts. My question is, solar aside, because I can recharge it with a small generator, how long will the unit alone keep me with power under 3500 watts continuous usage? Thank you in advance
It has a 4096Wh battery... So basically it will run 4096 watts for 1 hours... The invert running will also pull from the battery so I'd guess you can run 3500 watts for 1 hours. But I doubt you'd be running everything at the once. Good luck :)
I use my Pro 3 to charge my Tesla once a week. I charge up the power station from the Sun. Every weekend I dump it into my model Y. Good for 15 miles driving easy.
How much can you overpanel by? Let’s say on the low voltage side I have 3 panels in parallel, 30amps, so over paneled by 10 amps. If I have a 4th panel lying around, should I throw it in parallel as well? I’d be at 40amps, but since it’d clip it to 20 I’d be fine? This would allow me better cloudy/low light production?
It might work, but there is a control loop inside the Ecoflow that adjusts the effective resistance the solar panels see in order to extract the maximum power from the current panel configuration (a Maximum Power Point Tracker or MPPT algorithm). If it makes a small adjustment and gets a much bigger change than it expected due to excessive over-panelling, then the control loop may go unstable and break your unit.
I had an argument with my friend on which transfer outlet to use. He is stuck on 240v. I said 120v. 😂 240v is preferred if you have the large gas or power stations that come with a 240v outlet. For me, 120v is more versatile. You can plug in any size gas or power stations. My friend just bought a Delta Pro. I asked him, how are you going to power the house with that. 😂 Yes! He could buy another with the hub but he is too cheap.
@@JeepBigE That wasn't the argument. I asked my friend. How are you going to use the new Ecoflow Delta 2 Max. It doesn't have 240v outlet. He has no choice but to use extension cords.
All five of my EcoFlow put out only 50 3 AM on both legs of the RV plug which is incorrect should be 120 V on one leg a neutral and a gram. This is a huge problem. No one is reporting. Burning up all kinds of things in my RV the last two years.
I'm not sure I'm following. Measure across each leg to neutral and you should have two legs of 120 volts on each leg. Why is it burning things up in a RV? Thanks.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay - a lot of typos from voice texting that I didn’t correct before hitting send. What you just described is 240 V wiring. EcoFlow Delta Pro 30 amp plug for RV should have a ground neutral and hot with 120 V. it has a ground and 2 hots that are putting out 53 Volts each. this is not correct and a huge problem. My small toy hauler RV is only getting 53 V because of the poor wiring. The customer service is horrible and told me my multimeter doesn’t work correctly and my RV tech doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
@@Leaderorsheep TT30 should definitely only have a hot, neutral, and ground. I'll have to check my DP3 and see what it's showing (might as well check the L14-30 while I'm at it). I haven't connected it to my trailer yet but that is the plan for this unit. If you're getting the results you mentioned, that sounds like a defect that should be corrected. Are you saying you measure from neutral to ground and you're getting 53V? That would be terrible if so. Okay, I checked, and my TT-30 works as expected. 121V to neutral, 121V to ground, 0 between neutral and ground. The L14-30 is also fine, 121V on each leg to neutral and ground, about 242V between the hot legs, and 0 between neutral and ground. While I was at it, the DC output (30A output) was reading 12.69V DC.
@@ytmadpoo - the 5 Dp’s are not the new DP 3. They are the last generation. I do have a DP3 running my well. It is broken and getting fixed under warranty in Texas.
had 2 Delta Pro 3 ( DP3 ) units running in parallel with their 50 AMP hub bridge. One of the units was defective and caused a tremendous power surge which fried my HVAC thermostat and ECU, coffee maker, Air Purifier, GFCI outlets, and over a dozen outlet surge protectors and damaged 2, 200 AMP breaker panels. The damages have run into the thousands. One electrician who inspected my system told me that one of his customers had a similar problem with his EF Ultra except that he didn't have the unit hooked up to the home. I like the EF Delta 2 Max batteries, but the EF DP3 and the bridge is not good. $12,000 of damage was done.
Is there any danger involved in overpaneling or clipping amps off the top on the EcoFlow Delta Pro 3?
Great Eco flow delta pro 3 system and Eco flow delta pro 3 extra 2 battery 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have a question. So I can leave my rv agm battery in place and tap the Anderson port to the battery. There is no issue with the agm back feeding the EcoFlow?
What if I have solar charging the agm while it’s hooked up to the EcoFlow Anderson ports?
AGM and lithium batteries generally don't play well together. I'm not sure if they have any special protection underneath the hood of the Echoflow so I wouldn't do it personally.
The DP3 is going to be putting out a constant 13.6 or whatever DC voltage (I'm guessing on the exact amount). Your "house battery" is expecting to be connected to the converter of your RV which handles the necessary charging voltages for float, charge, maybe even a desulfate cycle if it has that feature.
Basically you'd be swapping out the smart(er) charging of your converter for what amounts to a dumb battery charger that knows nothing about your battery chemistry, and you could end up damaging the longevity of it. You might be able to find a dc-dc converter that handles the appropriate charging and you could put in between the house batteries and whatever DC voltage you're pumping into the system, but apart from that I'd just install a battery cutoff so you could isolate the batteries from whatever else, and switch back and forth as needed so only one at a time is connected to the RV.
It's kind of the same situation if you're hooking up your tow vehicle via the 7-way... there's 12V coming from your truck to the trailer's battery but usually we're talking about lead-acid on the truck and lead-acid (either flooded or AGM) on the trailer so it's not a big deal.
It's also probably not a big deal short term to have an AGM hooked up to a constant 13.6-13.8 but long term it'll cause issues. You want the float voltage lower or you're just cooking the poor thing.
Addendum: I checked, and the DC output on mine is 12.69V so it's not as high as I thought it might be, more of a nominal 12V. So it may actually be fine since a float voltage for SLA/AGM is higher than that. Don't expect this to charge your batteries, but at least it shouldn't harm them. You have a situation where the house batteries are at a higher potential than what the DP3 would put out though, and I assume the DP3 has reverse current protection but you might get other interesting side effects where the DP3 isn't actually providing any of the actual current, it'll all come from the batteries. Something to consider.
Hey, I just bought a delta 3 pro. I want to have solar panel charging my unit. Can you help me do that? Thank you
Ya. Were you able to watch the segment in the video where I connected the solar panels up? I would pick up some solar panels similar to those if I were you. If you buy similar solar panels, You should be able to connect to 9 solar panels to that unit... if you want to have the maximum solar input.
Send that thing over to me to test out after you get done evaluating it😝
It seems to me though that by including 2 different charge controllers in the unit that it will end up with some users getting the 2 different ports confused and plugging solar power into the wrong one and damaging the unit.. I think of it like military hardware.. you have to make it grunt proof.. or maybe wife proof.. either way, I'm pretty sure that there will be some units being damaged because of this.
It's just easier when both charge controllers are identical so that you can't confuse them in my opinion.
Interesting that Ecoflow added more battery capacity but still left the input (solar) to 150V like the Delta Pro. not sure why they would do that -- especially if you have extra batteries connected and such. Weird.
They are losing sales and money on their over priced equipment. I like their products don't get me wrong. I just can't see these mass adopted for the price. Best way to get into these are open box and refurbished. Then you see true prices thanks Ray
Where are you purchasing refurbished units?
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay ebay has a bunch of them and now that they have the oh so powerful delta 3, I'm sure you'll see the prices going down significantly
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay ebay, Facebook marketplace and the manufacturer.
Thanks, I'll have to check those out!
Hi, great video
Having two 400 watt solar panels how would you set up on a delta pro 3 looks like I should not do series, thank you again.
You want to look at the back of the solar panel to see the voltage. When you connect them in series the voltage will double but you don't want to go over the allowed voltage on power system specs. Hope that makes sense
I imagine you'd be fine if you connected them in series to the yellow Anderson solar port.
Thankyou they are eco Solar panels they get full sun here in New Mexico , wanting to do it right, like your channel
Glad I watched this video now I know how to hook up the 6 panels
My friend and I ordered 10 together
Nice! It's a nice unit! I love the wheels
This was very informative, thank you. I am thinking of buying this unit, but I have added the wattage of what I will need to run certain electronics at home, and came up with 3500 watts. My question is, solar aside, because I can recharge it with a small generator, how long will the unit alone keep me with power under 3500 watts continuous usage? Thank you in advance
It has a 4096Wh battery... So basically it will run 4096 watts for 1 hours... The invert running will also pull from the battery so I'd guess you can run 3500 watts for 1 hours. But I doubt you'd be running everything at the once. Good luck :)
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Thank you
I use my Pro 3 to charge my Tesla once a week.
I charge up the power station from the Sun. Every weekend I dump it into my model Y. Good for 15 miles driving easy.
If you have solar panels. you can connect 9 large panels to this unit. This unit would be awesome for charging your car during the day
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay
No, I'm robbing about 100 to 200 watts from the house batteries. It takes 3-5 days to fully charge the Delta Pro 3.
@wt9653 yeah, I was able to connect nine 300 watt solar panels to this unit. It did awesome
Very nice!
Why did he say cover your solar panels at night
He didn't saythat
yup...I don't recall saying that.
I think he is asking about what you said about covering at 5:44
How much can you overpanel by? Let’s say on the low voltage side I have 3 panels in parallel, 30amps, so over paneled by 10 amps. If I have a 4th panel lying around, should I throw it in parallel as well?
I’d be at 40amps, but since it’d clip it to 20 I’d be fine? This would allow me better cloudy/low light production?
It might work, but there is a control loop inside the Ecoflow that adjusts the effective resistance the solar panels see in order to extract the maximum power from the current panel configuration (a Maximum Power Point Tracker or MPPT algorithm). If it makes a small adjustment and gets a much bigger change than it expected due to excessive over-panelling, then the control loop may go unstable and break your unit.
The "Everyday Solar" channel did a similar solar setup for what I suggested for this unit and it worked great for him.
I had an argument with my friend on which transfer outlet to use.
He is stuck on 240v.
I said 120v. 😂
240v is preferred if you have the large gas or power stations that come with a 240v outlet.
For me, 120v is more versatile. You can plug in any size gas or power stations.
My friend just bought a Delta Pro.
I asked him, how are you going to power the house with that. 😂
Yes! He could buy another with the hub but he is too cheap.
Yes, this unit will not be able to power many large 240-volt appliances. Small 240 volt appliances, yes but most 240 volt appliances are larger loads
For a transfer outlet, I would go 240 volt. At least you could run something like a well pump, small appliances and also 120 outlets.
@@JeepBigE
That wasn't the argument.
I asked my friend. How are you going to use the new Ecoflow Delta 2 Max. It doesn't have 240v outlet.
He has no choice but to use extension cords.
All five of my EcoFlow put out only 50 3 AM on both legs of the RV plug which is incorrect should be 120 V on one leg a neutral and a gram. This is a huge problem. No one is reporting. Burning up all kinds of things in my RV the last two years.
53 amp
I'm not sure I'm following. Measure across each leg to neutral and you should have two legs of 120 volts on each leg. Why is it burning things up in a RV? Thanks.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay - a lot of typos from voice texting that I didn’t correct before hitting send. What you just described is 240 V wiring. EcoFlow Delta Pro 30 amp plug for RV should have a ground neutral and hot with 120 V. it has a ground and 2 hots that are putting out 53 Volts each. this is not correct and a huge problem. My small toy hauler RV is only getting 53 V because of the poor wiring. The customer service is horrible and told me my multimeter doesn’t work correctly and my RV tech doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
@@Leaderorsheep TT30 should definitely only have a hot, neutral, and ground. I'll have to check my DP3 and see what it's showing (might as well check the L14-30 while I'm at it). I haven't connected it to my trailer yet but that is the plan for this unit. If you're getting the results you mentioned, that sounds like a defect that should be corrected. Are you saying you measure from neutral to ground and you're getting 53V? That would be terrible if so.
Okay, I checked, and my TT-30 works as expected. 121V to neutral, 121V to ground, 0 between neutral and ground. The L14-30 is also fine, 121V on each leg to neutral and ground, about 242V between the hot legs, and 0 between neutral and ground. While I was at it, the DC output (30A output) was reading 12.69V DC.
@@ytmadpoo - the 5 Dp’s are not the new DP 3. They are the last generation. I do have a DP3 running my well. It is broken and getting fixed under warranty in Texas.
+1 for puppies
You say EcoFlow, but your title says EchoFlow lol.
Fixed. Lol. Oh my gosh. Thanks. No wonder it wasn't coming up in search results :).