It doesnt show the overlapping or lines because the area your painting is only about the width of the roll. I would like to see the end result on a panel at least a foot wide
35 years painting and a velour roller with a paint extender like M-1 and it will look sprayed don’t waste your time on foam rollers once the paint builds up in the roller you get a different look than when you started
@@LRO1986 they are marketed wrong They are great for metal / extremely flat surfaces anything else AGREE they are terrible! They market them like they are a All in 1 solution so many diy eat it up and buy them’
Don’t use foam rollers for cabinets use a velour roller available at Sherwin Williams and add Flotrol to your paint it will lay down like glass, PRO TIP
Does this stuff help from drying so quickly? TX is still hot and the other day with gel and stain it was like flash drying. No brush on and wipe off. Table top painting the foam roller only puts and spreads out soicj and that was drying really quick..Add more paint then you get those areas of roller marks and wetter area bs dryer dried area. I may just spray it, at least the paint is wetter, thicker and gives time to level before it dries.
Hi Shannon. My experience with the Valspar Cabinet paint is that even with a brush I got a smooth finish. So I think this experiment would be more revealing if you used a chalk paint or a water based paint that is notorious for showing brush strokes. I am a huge fan of your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and techniques with the world. I have benefited immensely!
@@cleoburrows sorry! I just saw your question. If you scroll thru her older videos you’ll find it. Basically 1 part each paint, Primer and top coat. You can add some chalk powder if you want but i didn’t. I did add a small amount of chalk paint to get the color right but it was les than a tablespoon.
I primed and still the inside edge of doors on a cabinet I painted with valspar chipped badly just a week later. I'm going to SAND the edges off the doors and try again. I did leave them out to dry for 4 days before putting them back on the cabinet, so disappointing in this highly expensive paint.
Hello Shannon, Many years ago I was a painter for my city. When tasked with painting metal doors, I used both roller and brush, after prepping the surface I would mix an oil based enamel paint with a little thinner and roll it on thin and wait a minute or two and then go in with the brush making one stroke from end to end continuing the width of the door and when I was done, it looked like I sprayed the door. Maybe this will be of help.
The video helps tremendously. I especially like your point about switching out to a new foam roller after completing the first coat . That makes sense since the roller and brush for that matter holds so much paint… they all can be washed out in the end ❤ thank you Shannon
Great vid, here in the uk trade we call the intermediate sanding de nibbing. I use the concave end sleeves, well that is at the moment, iam like you always trying new products and procedures, you would think being a painter and decorator for the past 47 years i would be set in my ways, but no still looking for the ultimate paint, brush, roller, masking tape, and the list goes on. Anyway enough of my rambling, keep up the good work.
I just found you on TH-cam today and I want to let you know I used the paint that you used and the system you use with the brush and roll that paint is absolutely fabulous. I am so glad I found you on TH-cam.
Thank you for doing this. It is one of most well made comparison videos I have yet to see. The results of the paint job look all about the same to me and now choice comes down to price.
I always add FLOETROL to my water based/Latex paint that is semi-gloss to gloss finish. It will give you better leveling in the finish product. If you are using a solvent based paint, use Penetrol. It will not only level the paint better, it also gives you extra drying/set up time of the paint. Floetrol does that also, since many of the new high hiding paints have a problem with drying too quickly which has your paint dragging in a short period of time. This happens quite often when painting wide base boards, door trim, chair rails, etc. etc.
I think the true winner would be your viewers. You have a wealth of info. I am delighted you are so willing to share your hard-earned experiences. Since the results were so similar it makes sense to me to purchase the larger pro-pack. Thank you for being so candid and entertaining.
Excellent job showing the close up shots! I don't flip furniture, but have trialed all kinds of small rollers for bath vanities, wood trim and other home projects. This black one is the one I mostly use (usually with Ben Moore Advance). Love the ends for small areas and the finish looks good. Thanks for taking time to compare them!
Hello, how expensive is the Benjamin Moore advance ? The valspar cabinet paint is very pricey N I loved it on my bath cabinets, but not on the office cabinets, don't know why except the colors are different.
Excellent information here. I used this on a motorcycle fender and topped it with rattle can gloss clear coat. I had the paint matched and bought the $7 latex 8oz sample from ACE. I followed your steps, and it turned out great. Thank you for posting.
i painted a 90 year old wardrobe with one of these superfine foam rollers and it looks brand new now. the finish is beautifully smooth. wholeheartedly recommend. i used a water based paint btw.
Thank you so much for doing the comparisons! I bought the contractor Whizz rollers after watching your first comparison test and love them! Blessings from Oregon.
Wizz in England is called rota I'm sure. Really good finish with them I find it works best with the paint thinned slightly for better flow. I really work in the paint on the roller to before u start.
I can’t really tell the difference in any of these products, they all look fantastic. I will certainly get the Whizz rollers from Lowe’s and give them a shot. Thanks for all the experimenting so we don’t have to do it.
As these rollers give such a good finish, i'm considering rolling out the trim and end panels in a kitchen to save on masking prep.... And spraying the doors offsite.... Wondering if there's a downside to doing this?..
I've painted several sets of cabinets for customers. I always spray doors offsite. This is really what people focus on. I have masked off kitchen and box openings and sprayed them, but it's a HUGE amount of labor for not much better finish. I still offer that as an upsell option but I prefer brush and roll on the boxes. With a good water-based alkyd like SW Emerald Urethane it self levels and cures hard like oil based paint. BM Advance is good too but double the time to 2nd coat and cure. BTW I also use a brush to apply and roller to smooth, but I use 3/16 velour as I have issues with foam plowing the paint.
I just painted my bedroom doors using velour or microfiber roller and the result is almost the same as spray painted. My paint is Dulux (Opononi Quarter) Water Based semi-gloss. Thumbs Up.
I use a method described by Paul Ricalde on his youtube channel. 1. apply cabinet waterbased paint like SW with a brush 2. roll with a wool or microfiber roller 3. go over with 0000 steel wool. Repeat the process three times. This is done after the prep work of removing grease, sanding and applying primer. Any roller that is sponge will have a tendency to either slide if too much pressure is put and will leave an orange peel effect. Watch Paul's demonstration. My uncle has been a professional painter for over 30 years and gave Paul's method two thumbs up. It is the closest to a spray finish he has seen. The microfiber rollers are not expensive, about $12 for a pack of 12 allgala on Amazon. Unless you have been working with sponge rollers for a really long time and know how much pressure to apply, they are not for the amateur. PAul's method may take a bit longer, but the results are spray paint quality.
Thanks. But it might've been a more revealing test if you did a larger area with overlaps. up close they all have a bit of orange peel texture, but all are pretty good. Also a non-oil based product might be tougher.
Firstly you are going backwards in your approach to acquiring a smooth finish. The orange peel effect you showed on the door paint comes from the roller. ANY roller cover you use with texture your finish. Secondly you are starving and scrubbing with you first roller coat. DO NOT SCRUB paint on a surface. Both roller and brush are made to deliver the paint to the surface. Deliver an adequate amount of paint then SMOOTH the paint with a brush. A roller creates suction on the surface and you will never get as smooth a finish as a brush. Deliver plenty of paint to the surface with the roller then spread smooth with the brush. You can also add an extender like Aquatrol or Floetrol by Flood Company to the paint to allow for a smoother and more liquid quality to the paint.
Hi! I'm late to the party but wow yr great. I watched one of yr videos and decided to try some others. This one was perfect for a project I'm taking on. It's a huge desk. I want it all to look the same. I don't spray anything bc of the mess but love the consistency of the spray technique. So, I liked, commented and sub'd. I'm all yr's. Can't wait to binge. Have a day full of grins and giggles. I have to go do some painting.
Awesome supporting case,you have an excellent channel. This video will continue to help a lot of people to make the right and necessary decision when selecting the appropriate tool for the job at hand...this video is beneficial in many ways, I personally like the approach of using the brush then laying off with the proper roller pad of choice. This finish product looks like it was sprayed on. Best wishes for the holidays
Great video! I notice that after you brush and you start rolling, you get lots of bubbles, but then they seem to be gone by the time you move on to the next paint swatch and new roller. What are you doing, if anything, to get those tiny little bubbles to go away? Or do they just disappear on their own? Thanks!
I’m just wondering complete beginner… so these are one time use rollers? They’re good for one project or piece of furniture unless it’s a big dresser, you’d use a new one the next day? Thanks!!!
@@blacksheephouse oh good!!! I was hoping I was understanding that wrong. Thanks so much replying! I love your channel!!!! I just can’t across it this month and it’s by far my favorite.
Dear Shannon thanks for all you give us, love your work. I have a doubt with your personal mix paint, can I use it mixing with rust oleum chalcked paint and bin primer? Thanks a lot. I follow you
Hey, thanks for the support!! I haven’t tried that combo but I did mix chalk paint and clear coat together one time and it took 3x as long to dry so I haven’t done it since
They do all look very close to me. My question is do they all roll well? I have used some dense foam rollers from Walmart and after awhile they don't roll smoothly all the time. They start to drag on the paint so I stopped using them. Thank you for this video
Thank you for the comparison. The issue I've experienced with any foam roller (or any roller, for that matter), is that when you roll a long surface, like a table top or dresser top, the roller starts to "bounce" and leaves skip marks along the surface. I've tried rolling with a dry foam roller, and rolling with a wet microfiber roller, and over a long distance I always get the bumpy ride and can see the skipped areas. Do you use a specific roller frame that helps with that?
I’ve definitely encountered that problem before but never could say exactly why… hopefully I’ll learn that one day for sure but I did switch to doing the smaller sections first and then doing the sides and top last so my “dry” roller is the most damp with paint and I frequently switch the direction I’m holding the cage as I go in hopes that I’m not bending it and if I have a new foam roller acting weird to me I will toss it out as soon as I notice
hello I follow you a day ago youtube I recommend you I don't speak much English but I understand a little I want to paint an old hutch but it is in very good condition I would like to ask you for an idea or recommendation I want to paint it beige but chalk paint is very expensive Could I get some regular paint at HOMEDEPOT that looks like chalk but is cheaper? many blessings I follow you from indiana a hug
That's not a good paint to use for testing purposes and by not good, I mean too good. It levels so well you could apply it with a fork and it will look good.
I think you need more specific requirements to your test. That's why you couldn't tell much difference. You needed all your boards you used to roll the paint on to be exactly the same. Use specific criteria like number of times you rolled with each roller. Which roller got into the same crevices or edges better. What was the price difference in each roller. What was the difference in the handles their pros and cons. I love your videos and you are so talented. I just think the test didn't quit work out because your just kept rolling and rolling until the were smooth. Not noting any difference between rollers. Didn't really cover the specifics and difference for each. Loved the video anyways. Just a few suggestions for the next one.
IMO, this technique is not the best to achieve the smoothest results. Modern paint dries much too quickly to use two different brushes. On all these examples, there is way too much orange peel texture to compete with a spray result. You captured the correct light/door angle to show actual texture, but all the samples failed. Furthermore, Whizz claims their Flock roller is for Ultra-Smooth, gloss effect, and you didn't include that roller in this test.
Looks to me like they ALL leave bubbles. That’s what you’re sanding. Common sense. Look at foam. It has holes. They leave bubbles. Sometimes I have to use this technique- mostly with water borne alkyds. I find that foam rollers are just inconsistent, Especially with this technique. You’re actually removing paint and removing more by lightly sanding. Sometimes those tiny bubbles lead me to three tedious coats WHEN I CANNOT USE A SPRAYER. UGH. AND a clear coat is required, since you’re basically rolling away and buffing away the sheen. I have also wet sanded the finished product ( I prefer the clear sand paper that’s for Sheetrock )and used car detailing products to get a high shine. UGH HATE IT . yet, there are instances where I can’t spray. Every time I use foam I use whizzer. Then I say NEVER AGAIN.. MOHAIR DOESNT LEAVE BUBBLES. just saying.
Paint really matters to what you're applying it with like @ritagold1034 noted - some are awful and lack a lot of self levelers, and enamel is its own beast. Also using microfiber I've had it rip up wood fibers and cause the finish to be horrible so I would suggest using a lint free cloth or paper towel instead.
It doesnt show the overlapping or lines because the area your painting is only about the width of the roll. I would like to see the end result on a panel at least a foot wide
35 years painting and a velour roller with a paint extender like M-1 and it will look sprayed don’t waste your time on foam rollers once the paint builds up in the roller you get a different look than when you started
Foam rollers are TRASH.
Would Floetrol work?
@@FourJaysFour yes it’s basically the same thing it’s actually been around much longer than M-1
@@LRO1986 they are marketed wrong
They are great for metal / extremely flat surfaces anything else AGREE they are terrible!
They market them like they are a All in 1 solution so many diy eat it up and buy them’
I just looked up velour rollers and it has worst reviews than foam
Don’t use foam rollers for cabinets use a velour roller available at Sherwin Williams and add Flotrol to your paint it will lay down like glass, PRO TIP
Does this stuff help from drying so quickly? TX is still hot and the other day with gel and stain it was like flash drying. No brush on and wipe off. Table top painting the foam roller only puts and spreads out soicj and that was drying really quick..Add more paint then you get those areas of roller marks and wetter area bs dryer dried area. I may just spray it, at least the paint is wetter, thicker and gives time to level before it dries.
Hi Shannon. My experience with the Valspar Cabinet paint is that even with a brush I got a smooth finish. So I think this experiment would be more revealing if you used a chalk paint or a water based paint that is notorious for showing brush strokes. I am a huge fan of your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and techniques with the world. I have benefited immensely!
Totally agree. Not a fair experiment
Ive had such great results with Shannon’s paint mix without the additional chalk that I didn’t even need to roll it.
@@lollygee172 What paint mix is that?
@@cleoburrows sorry! I just saw your question. If you scroll thru her older videos you’ll find it. Basically 1 part each paint, Primer and top coat. You can add some chalk powder if you want but i didn’t. I did add a small amount of chalk paint to get the color right but it was les than a tablespoon.
I primed and still the inside edge of doors on a cabinet I painted with valspar chipped badly just a week later. I'm going to SAND the edges off the doors and try again. I did leave them out to dry for 4 days before putting them back on the cabinet, so disappointing in this highly expensive paint.
Hello Shannon, Many years ago I was a painter for my city. When tasked with painting metal doors, I used both roller and brush, after prepping the surface I would mix an oil based enamel paint with a little thinner and roll it on thin and wait a minute or two and then go in with the brush making one stroke from end to end continuing the width of the door and when I was done, it looked like I sprayed the door. Maybe this will be of help.
The video helps tremendously. I especially like your point about switching out to a new foam roller after completing the first coat . That makes sense since the roller and brush for that matter holds so much paint… they all can be washed out in the end ❤ thank you Shannon
Great vid, here in the uk trade we call the intermediate sanding de nibbing. I use the concave end sleeves, well that is at the moment, iam like you always trying new products and procedures, you would think being a painter and decorator for the past 47 years i would be set in my ways, but no still looking for the ultimate paint, brush, roller, masking tape, and the list goes on.
Anyway enough of my rambling, keep up the good work.
I just found you on TH-cam today and I want to let you know I used the paint that you used and the system you use with the brush and roll that paint is absolutely fabulous. I am so glad I found you on TH-cam.
🥳
Thank you so much for a well detailed video and for showing a very close look at the finished paint.
Thank you for doing this. It is one of most well made comparison videos I have yet to see. The results of the paint job look all about the same to me and now choice comes down to price.
Loved seeing your beautiful family involved in the test! Thank you for sharing it. Many blessings!
I always add FLOETROL to my water based/Latex paint that is semi-gloss to gloss finish. It will give you better leveling in the finish product. If you are using a solvent based paint, use Penetrol. It will not only level the paint better, it also gives you extra drying/set up time of the paint. Floetrol does that also, since many of the new high hiding paints have a problem with drying too quickly which has your paint dragging in a short period of time. This happens quite often when painting wide base boards, door trim, chair rails, etc. etc.
I'm impressed with all of them. I never knew that you could get this finish with a roller.
I think the true winner would be your viewers. You have a wealth of info. I am delighted you are so willing to share your hard-earned experiences. Since the results were so similar it makes sense to me to purchase the larger pro-pack. Thank you for being so candid and entertaining.
Excellent job showing the close up shots! I don't flip furniture, but have trialed all kinds of small rollers for bath vanities, wood trim and other home projects. This black one is the one I mostly use (usually with Ben Moore Advance). Love the ends for small areas and the finish looks good. Thanks for taking time to compare them!
Hello, how expensive is the Benjamin Moore advance ? The valspar cabinet paint is very pricey N I loved it on my bath cabinets, but not on the office cabinets, don't know why except the colors are different.
@@lauratruthseekingWarrior A gallon runs $70 at our local Ace hardware
Thank you for testing the rollers!! With the supply issues now we have a greater chance of finding a roller that'll work!!!
Excellent information here. I used this on a motorcycle fender and topped it with rattle can gloss clear coat. I had the paint matched and bought the $7 latex 8oz sample from ACE. I followed your steps, and it turned out great. Thank you for posting.
Hi Shannon, on camera they all look the same to me. But I love your technique of "brush on, roll off" it's a true winner for getting a great finish.
i painted a 90 year old wardrobe with one of these superfine foam rollers and it looks brand new now. the finish is beautifully smooth. wholeheartedly recommend. i used a water based paint btw.
Thank you so much for doing the comparisons! I bought the contractor Whizz rollers after watching your first comparison test and love them! Blessings from Oregon.
Wizz in England is called rota I'm sure. Really good finish with them I find it works best with the paint thinned slightly for better flow. I really work in the paint on the roller to before u start.
I love this technique, it has been a game changer.
I can’t really tell the difference in any of these products, they all look fantastic. I will certainly get the Whizz rollers from Lowe’s and give them a shot. Thanks for all the experimenting so we don’t have to do it.
I think I’m liking the whizz because of its ability to paint up close to the edges. Will definitely try them!
I tried to pain slab doors. the paint is benjamin more advance. how do I fix the streaks? please advise.
As these rollers give such a good finish, i'm considering rolling out the trim and end panels in a kitchen to save on masking prep.... And spraying the doors offsite.... Wondering if there's a downside to doing this?..
I've painted several sets of cabinets for customers. I always spray doors offsite. This is really what people focus on. I have masked off kitchen and box openings and sprayed them, but it's a HUGE amount of labor for not much better finish. I still offer that as an upsell option but I prefer brush and roll on the boxes. With a good water-based alkyd like SW Emerald Urethane it self levels and cures hard like oil based paint. BM Advance is good too but double the time to 2nd coat and cure.
BTW I also use a brush to apply and roller to smooth, but I use 3/16 velour as I have issues with foam plowing the paint.
Omg that is such a great technique! My mind is already blown🎉 Thank you!
Awesome that your family assisted in making it.
Like the pro foam roller, big-time...thank you for your time and experience
Love to see how they perform on hollow core doors
It ultimately boils down to what tool are you doing the finishing stroke with brush or roll or blend
If you are suggesting smooth finish SW emerald or Benjamins advanced is going to smooth out so paint does matter.
I just painted my bedroom doors using velour or microfiber roller and the result is almost the same as spray painted. My paint is Dulux (Opononi Quarter) Water Based semi-gloss. Thumbs Up.
I use a method described by Paul Ricalde on his youtube channel. 1. apply cabinet waterbased paint like SW with a brush 2. roll with a wool or microfiber roller 3. go over with 0000 steel wool. Repeat the process three times. This is done after the prep work of removing grease, sanding and applying primer. Any roller that is sponge will have a tendency to either slide if too much pressure is put and will leave an orange peel effect. Watch Paul's demonstration. My uncle has been a professional painter for over 30 years and gave Paul's method two thumbs up. It is the closest to a spray finish he has seen. The microfiber rollers are not expensive, about $12 for a pack of 12 allgala on Amazon. Unless you have been working with sponge rollers for a really long time and know how much pressure to apply, they are not for the amateur. PAul's method may take a bit longer, but the results are spray paint quality.
For cabinets I prefer a short microfiber roller...purdy...for paint I like Behr Dynasty
Thank goodness it’s so similar because of you I just bought a bunch of the PO FROAM ROLLER 🥰😄
Your technique is 99.9 but remember to get your roller foam damp before use paint lays perfect
I’m with you and can’t tell that much difference. They all look great. Thanks for the comparison.
I love woman who can paint stuff and are creative ☺️
Looks like I will go for the least expensive of these when I finally try your method!
Wow! Thank you for doing a comparison!!!!! Honestly, they all turned out so well, I'm impressed!!! I like having the options. 👏👏👏😁😁😁
Been painting 20 yrs and use whizz or foam pro. Depending on how much density of foam i need and what type of paints. Both quality .
What type of roller would you use for chalk paint?
Thanks. But it might've been a more revealing test if you did a larger area with overlaps. up close they all have a bit of orange peel texture, but all are pretty good. Also a non-oil based product might be tougher.
Brush then roll with a dry cover? Just pulling the paint right off
The foam pro looked to me to have a slightly finer texture. Thx for the review!
Lay it on with a roller and tip off with a clean damp high quality brush, easy, fast and looks fantastic, use Floetrol or just get BJM Advance
Firstly you are going backwards in your approach to acquiring a smooth finish. The orange peel effect you showed on the door paint comes from the roller. ANY roller cover you use with texture your finish. Secondly you are starving and scrubbing with you first roller coat. DO NOT SCRUB paint on a surface. Both roller and brush are made to deliver the paint to the surface. Deliver an adequate amount of paint then SMOOTH the paint with a brush. A roller creates suction on the surface and you will never get as smooth a finish as a brush. Deliver plenty of paint to the surface with the roller then spread smooth with the brush. You can also add an extender like Aquatrol or Floetrol by Flood Company to the paint to allow for a smoother and more liquid quality to the paint.
Thank you for your great tips yet again!! ❤
Wish we could have seen a strip done by brush alone for comparison.
Hi! I'm late to the party but wow yr great. I watched one of yr videos and decided to try some others. This one was perfect for a project I'm taking on. It's a huge desk. I want it all to look the same. I don't spray anything bc of the mess but love the consistency of the spray technique. So, I liked, commented and sub'd. I'm all yr's. Can't wait to binge. Have a day full of grins and giggles. I have to go do some painting.
Awesome supporting case,you have an excellent channel. This video will continue to help a lot of people to make the right and necessary decision when selecting the appropriate tool for the job at hand...this video is beneficial in many ways, I personally like the approach of using the brush then laying off with the proper roller pad of choice.
This finish product looks like it was sprayed on.
Best wishes for the holidays
Great video! I’m going to try one of these.
Great video! I notice that after you brush and you start rolling, you get lots of bubbles, but then they seem to be gone by the time you move on to the next paint swatch and new roller. What are you doing, if anything, to get those tiny little bubbles to go away? Or do they just disappear on their own? Thanks!
They either disappear, I wait to see if they do and if not after a few seconds I roll last one time super gentle to pop them
you didn't show painting using a tray? can you tell us why using a tray is not preferred?
I’m just wondering complete beginner… so these are one time use rollers? They’re good for one project or piece of furniture unless it’s a big dresser, you’d use a new one the next day? Thanks!!!
I reuse mine a ton!! I use water clean up paints usually so I just wash them with dishsoap
@@blacksheephouse oh good!!! I was hoping I was understanding that wrong. Thanks so much replying! I love your channel!!!! I just can’t across it this month and it’s by far my favorite.
Do you recommend the same method (brush and roll) for MDF cabinets?
This was so exciting!
Dear Shannon thanks for all you give us, love your work. I have a doubt with your personal mix paint, can I use it mixing with rust oleum chalcked paint and bin primer? Thanks a lot. I follow you
Hey, thanks for the support!! I haven’t tried that combo but I did mix chalk paint and clear coat together one time and it took 3x as long to dry so I haven’t done it since
They do all look very close to me. My question is do they all roll well? I have used some dense foam rollers from Walmart and after awhile they don't roll smoothly all the time. They start to drag on the paint so I stopped using them. Thank you for this video
Have you had that happen with the brush on roll off method too?
@@blacksheephouse yes I have . Maybe these rollers are just poor quality.
I'm painting a 24" x 24" wood panel. The problem is, once the I finish painting it with a brush, it's too dry to use a roller. Woah is me.
Thank you for the comparison. The issue I've experienced with any foam roller (or any roller, for that matter), is that when you roll a long surface, like a table top or dresser top, the roller starts to "bounce" and leaves skip marks along the surface. I've tried rolling with a dry foam roller, and rolling with a wet microfiber roller, and over a long distance I always get the bumpy ride and can see the skipped areas. Do you use a specific roller frame that helps with that?
I’ve definitely encountered that problem before but never could say exactly why… hopefully I’ll learn that one day for sure but I did switch to doing the smaller sections first and then doing the sides and top last so my “dry” roller is the most damp with paint and I frequently switch the direction I’m holding the cage as I go in hopes that I’m not bending it and if I have a new foam roller acting weird to me I will toss it out as soon as I notice
You really helped me!! thank you so much!!
I think Foam Pro is the smoothest in this video.
Can you share the soundtrack or music list?
Dang! Perfect opportunity for "HOLY SHEEP! YOU NEED THIS ROLLER!" 🐑
😂
Used " melamine " paint and a mohair roller oh wow litterly look sprayed
Does anyone know what type of roller is better for chalk paints, cant seem to find online
Thank you..I think number 1
I don't understand why you don't just use a tray and skip the brush.
Thanks Shannon!!
Two observations:
First roll then brush.. you are getting lots of air bubbles.
Cheap Equipment, suggest professional quality. Handle and rollers.
So which was your fav?
hello I follow you a day ago youtube I recommend you I don't speak much English but I understand a little I want to paint an old hutch but it is in very good condition I would like to ask you for an idea or recommendation I want to paint it beige but chalk paint is very expensive Could I get some regular paint at HOMEDEPOT that looks like chalk but is cheaper? many blessings I follow you from indiana a hug
Cute family! Thanks for doing this test so I don't have to do it.
That's not a good paint to use for testing purposes and by not good, I mean too good. It levels so well you could apply it with a fork and it will look good.
I use a roller primer
I think you need more specific requirements to your test. That's why you couldn't tell much difference. You needed all your boards you used to roll the paint on to be exactly the same. Use specific criteria like number of times you rolled with each roller. Which roller got into the same crevices or edges better. What was the price difference in each roller. What was the difference in the handles their pros and cons. I love your videos and you are so talented. I just think the test didn't quit work out because your just kept rolling and rolling until the were smooth. Not noting any difference between rollers. Didn't really cover the specifics and difference for each. Loved the video anyways. Just a few suggestions for the next one.
Thank you.
Which one is the cheapest? That’s the winner for me 😂
Someone take care of these damn leaves please! Do it now!
Can the drama music
You mean roller sleeves
Boogers and bugs. 😄
The sprayer
IMO, this technique is not the best to achieve the smoothest results. Modern paint dries much too quickly to use two different brushes. On all these examples, there is way too much orange peel texture to compete with a spray result. You captured the correct light/door angle to show actual texture, but all the samples failed. Furthermore, Whizz claims their Flock roller is for Ultra-Smooth, gloss effect, and you didn't include that roller in this test.
They all look the same to me
Great 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
they all have orange peel ????????????????????????????? none of them one
LOL You literally have $20-$25 in roller covers and a $25-$30 brush but you're using a freakin Tupperware bowl!! LOL
Spray it!
Looks to me like they ALL leave bubbles. That’s what you’re sanding. Common sense. Look at foam. It has holes. They leave bubbles. Sometimes I have to use this technique- mostly with water borne alkyds. I find that foam rollers are just inconsistent, Especially with this technique. You’re actually removing paint and removing more by lightly sanding. Sometimes those tiny bubbles lead me to three tedious coats WHEN I CANNOT USE A SPRAYER. UGH. AND a clear coat is required, since you’re basically rolling away and buffing away the sheen. I have also wet sanded the finished product ( I prefer the clear sand paper that’s for Sheetrock )and used car detailing products to get a high shine. UGH HATE IT . yet, there are instances where I can’t spray. Every time I use foam I use whizzer. Then I say NEVER AGAIN.. MOHAIR DOESNT LEAVE BUBBLES. just saying.
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Spraying is the future, get rid of rollers and brushes.
I cannot stand when people poor paint out of the can without something to plug the indent. Like do you enjoy cleaning messes?
i won😋
Bruh
Paint really matters to what you're applying it with like @ritagold1034 noted - some are awful and lack a lot of self levelers, and enamel is its own beast. Also using microfiber I've had it rip up wood fibers and cause the finish to be horrible so I would suggest using a lint free cloth or paper towel instead.
Always very informative your videos. I learn so much from it. But I must confess the 4 rollers are quite effective. Maybe the Whizz4 👍😎🐕🦺