quick tip, the first ring you installed the "spring dude" lol is an oil scraper ring and its job is to help wring oil up and down the cylinder wall. You are absolutely correct in that the ends of this ring do not overlap. You should also make sure to orient the ring so that the ends that do butt up against each other come down and make a valley like a V and not meet facing up like an A. With the oil control rings it should not matter. The compression rings ( top 2 ) are usually marked on the side that face up with a dot or another marker. If theres no mark then its tapered sides up. You have the best channel man, just trying to help. Get u some tapered ring compressors! wiseco makes some good cheap ones but they are only for 1 size per app. I literally push my pistons in with my pinky haha 1 last recommendation, wear gloves when handeling the bearings. The oils on your skin can contaminate the bearing saddles and the back half of the bearings. Some non chlorinated brake cleaner on the bearing saddle and backhalf of the bearings until "squeaky" dry is what I look for. Loving the attitude that if the crank hasnt been damaged before run standard bearings and fucking send it. boy if u dont get u some proper assembly lube. good thing for u is u dont let them engines sit on the stand long enough for that oil to drip out from between the bearings n crank. Something thicker like Torco assembly lube will hang between the bearings and crank for a long time if ur like me and move like a turtle because pay determines pace in my case haha n get some hondabond to be an OG honda engine assembly tech 😂
took me back to rebuilding my k20a2…first time I ever field down piston rings installed new pistons. Motor ran great. I have a full b18c1 swap just sitting and this video may have gave me the hype to get going on something with it. thanks man!
Man I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. You are very informative and explain in my mind of language. You keep up the good work. Ppl out here will send you free stuff and support you to keep going. Ace Mechanic work bud!
This guy with the gallager mallet. I could make a comment about how sick the video is and how informative you're being but that mallet must have a name right?
a bit late, but a tip if you're reading this. when torquing the mains/rods, make sure the torque wrench is perpendicular to the crank, dont torque it with the wrench parallel to the crank
Great video bro. Very in depth and informative! I seen you were from Wisconsin and I’m from Minnesota it would be sick to see you at rockfalls raceway or something some time ! Maybe you could help me with tuning my hondata at the track 🤣 keep it up man !
im building my GSR this summer and im totally lost so im trying to look up as much as possible even went to my local honda dealer they have the first honda sitting on display. They gave me some books to learn from, this will get messy.
Awesome video bro. Building me a poor mans Type R here in New Zealand. I'd advise anyone undertaking a B-Series build/rebuild to also have the B-Series re-build step by step book (which he mentioned) by Jason Siu to go off as well. Keep up the good work dude!!!!!!!!!!!!
Subbed! Awesome vid man. You know your stuff! Thanks for sharing the knowledge! 👍😁 will be watching more of your vids and taking notes. Lol...great job!
The bearing and the rod has a trust side so the rod must be turned correctly. The trust side goes to the exhaust side. You turn them wrong and it will eventually spin the bearings. Cant believe you said it doesn't matter. At 500 hp it will spin the bearing real quick.
Can you use factory rod bearings on eagle rods or any other brands,I know there color coded for each cylinder,green brown or whatever or are the specs gonna be different because you are putting after market rods.
With it being a stock bore build and pistons, did you end up having the machine shop hone to fit the pistons or were able to just do a ball hone and drop the pistons in?
Question, tried looking on forums but couldnt find it maybe you would know... How come on the obd1 gsr it comes with oil cooler but on obd2 gsr it doesnt did they take it off for a good reason?
hunter, I built a d16 turbo, stock internals, snapped a rod on 15psi haha, I'm having my local machine shop build me a block, I supplied all the parts, this guy is going to bore, hone, set up my block with my speed factory rods and Vitara pistons, he's supplying the block and the crank, what do you think he will charge me?
JakeChevy Suzuki I would have done it for free. The speed factory rods really do take the hardwork entirely out of the equation. No notching of the cylinder sleeves or girdle is requiered. We'd have that d16 machined and assembled in about 3 hours max. Good luck.
JakeChevy Suzuki I'll give you my prices and specs for reference. $20 per cylinder to bore from 75mm to 75.5mm so .020" over. piston to wall spec of .025" thats what SpeedFactory ran on their whp record holding vitara build. .018" ring end gap clearence for compression ring #1 .020" ring end gap for compression ring #2 oil control rings untouched. Spend the money and get a Honda factory d16z6 oil pump or buy a badguysworldwide ported z6 oil pump 😁 oh yea and $18 a cylinder for the hone, should feel coarse if u run ur finger up on the sleeve and smooth when u run ur finger down the sleeve. A slow rpm with the hone will achieve acceptable cross hatching.
Stefano Johnson I’m going to build my b18b1 too but my car smokes a lot in idle (white/blueish) but once I take off and even when I’m at 7.5k I see no smoke only at idle
I hate to criticize but put the crank in first so that u can tighten the caps 1 at a time and spin the crank one bearing at a time so if something seems tight u will know what one to check just my own way
Joshua Zickler ALWAYS install and torque the main cap / girdle BEFORE doing anything to do with the rods. If you torque your rods before the mains you run a good chance of warping / snapping your crankshaft when you do button down you main cap / girdle.
J Kay ok. Kinda doubt it and honestly if you think I’m some fancy engine builder your wrong. I just do backyard shit I have experience with and what works. I stem from sloppy mechanics. He inspired me to make a TH-cam channel. Thanks for the advice though
HunterTuned its cool, if it works it works. I just know what Honda does from the factory and why, no harm in bringing it up. The work you do is GOLDEN compared to a lot of shit I see so perfecting will only make you better.
I’m building a Gsr and trying to shoot for big power . I see that you said something about not sleeving the block I would love to stay with stock because that saves money lol so I guess my question is can I build high hp with stock sleeves and what about a block guard what u think of them . I also see you can do a boost by gear in other of you videos I love that what do u recommend dude thank u so much bro
You are not supposed to use a mallet to beat the piston in. That is how you chip rings. You are supposed to wiggle the piston in and give a light tap when needed - not beat it in. You don't see issues with your engines because you probably do not run them over 100k miles being built, they probably blow up from a tuning wear issue/ or are sold off before then. Thanks for the video but some stuff you are skipping around on I believe to be important.
quick tip, the first ring you installed the "spring dude" lol is an oil scraper ring and its job is to help wring oil up and down the cylinder wall. You are absolutely correct in that the ends of this ring do not overlap. You should also make sure to orient the ring so that the ends that do butt up against each other come down and make a valley like a V and not meet facing up like an A. With the oil control rings it should not matter. The compression rings ( top 2 ) are usually marked on the side that face up with a dot or another marker. If theres no mark then its tapered sides up.
You have the best channel man, just trying to help.
Get u some tapered ring compressors! wiseco makes some good cheap ones but they are only for 1 size per app. I literally push my pistons in with my pinky haha
1 last recommendation, wear gloves when handeling the bearings. The oils on your skin can contaminate the bearing saddles and the back half of the bearings. Some non chlorinated brake cleaner on the bearing saddle and backhalf of the bearings until "squeaky" dry is what I look for.
Loving the attitude that if the crank hasnt been damaged before run standard bearings and fucking send it.
boy if u dont get u some proper assembly lube. good thing for u is u dont let them engines sit on the stand long enough for that oil to drip out from between the bearings n crank. Something thicker like Torco assembly lube will hang between the bearings and crank for a long time if ur like me and move like a turtle because pay determines pace in my case haha
n get some hondabond to be an OG honda engine assembly tech 😂
My favorite Honda channel on TH-cam. I like how you explain & kick knowledge. You're Bad ass bro!
B Series thank you brother!
took me back to rebuilding my k20a2…first time I ever field down piston rings installed new pistons. Motor ran great. I have a full b18c1 swap just sitting and this video may have gave me the hype to get going on something with it. thanks man!
Not a boring videos. These video's are the best
Man I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. You are very informative and explain in my mind of language. You keep up the good work. Ppl out here will send you free stuff and support you to keep going. Ace Mechanic work bud!
“The spring dude” I love it!!!❤️
My new favorite TH-cam channel. Keep up the good work man!
Ryan L thank you!
Sweet bro....can't wait to see the turn out .... part 2 here we come
Doing my first build this year! Thank you for this video helped out a lot
ModernLifeStyle glad to help brother
This guy with the gallager mallet. I could make a comment about how sick the video is and how informative you're being but that mallet must have a name right?
I said the same thing 🤣 this is my dude tho his videos help me out alot
a bit late, but a tip if you're reading this. when torquing the mains/rods, make sure the torque wrench is perpendicular to the crank, dont torque it with the wrench parallel to the crank
"the book" lol. Getting fast progress on this build. Coming together nicely.
Never heard that saying. “It’s a horse a piece”. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks so much for taking the time and filming th steps
Great video bro. Very in depth and informative! I seen you were from Wisconsin and I’m from Minnesota it would be sick to see you at rockfalls raceway or something some time ! Maybe you could help me with tuning my hondata at the track 🤣 keep it up man !
I collect old race junk, Got Grumpy Jenkins piston from his 427 build, You have to see the tricks they did back then on there pistons..
Good work. I learned a lot here!
That chair! Must rev to the moon! Run it bro lol nice vid I miss the b-series world
G23 guy
good work man, excited to see the timing belt water pump ect. go on!
Great work keep the videos coming
im building my GSR this summer and im totally lost so im trying to look up as much as possible even went to my local honda dealer they have the first honda sitting on display. They gave me some books to learn from, this will get messy.
got a freezer? put the surclips in the like over night then install. Makes it way easier on the cp b18 Pistons IMO.
Love the build! Do you have a parts list? Or did I miss it in a different video?
Awesome video bro. Building me a poor mans Type R here in New Zealand. I'd advise anyone undertaking a B-Series build/rebuild to also have the B-Series re-build step by step book (which he mentioned) by Jason Siu to go off as well. Keep up the good work dude!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just put together a block and i was worried about my shit not spining correctly but now i know
Subbed! Awesome vid man. You know your stuff! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
👍😁 will be watching more of your vids and taking notes. Lol...great job!
Nicely Done, thanks and keep up the good work 👍🏾🤙🏾
Very helpful! thank you!
Love your videos bro💪🏼
YOU DA MAN!!
Thanks for the video brother...
Awesome video very helpful
Good video again Hunter!
I know about the blocks but take it slow when timing this motor. I need to understand timing in entirely.
jevvy boss thank you! I will try to show what I’m doing in next video!
The bearing and the rod has a trust side so the rod must be turned correctly. The trust side goes to the exhaust side. You turn them wrong and it will eventually spin the bearings. Cant believe you said it doesn't matter. At 500 hp it will spin the bearing real quick.
Welll spoken that’s for the build tips 💪
So do we gap the rings or no.. thank u for ur help
Can you use factory rod bearings on eagle rods or any other brands,I know there color coded for each cylinder,green brown or whatever or are the specs gonna be different because you are putting after market rods.
nice video man and I'm a new subscriber looking forward to more videos! plus I'm buying a eg hatch shell if I need help on something ill ask you lol
Thanks for checking out the channel!
Great info I have a stock gsr what was the hp on the setup?
With it being a stock bore build and pistons, did you end up having the machine shop hone to fit the pistons or were able to just do a ball hone and drop the pistons in?
I had a quick question as well. I'm having trouble finding bolts to put my block on the engine stand and was wondering which bolts you used. Thanks!
Do u have to notch the block n girdle or no with aftermarket connecting rod
Those rods are thicc af
What do you think about over sized bearings, on a machined crank? Is it that big of a deal?
Heads Up yes. Once the coating is burned off the crank there pretty much garbage. Find a good crank with no spun bearings
Hey man where can I order these pistons ! I need your help !
Shouldn't you put assembly lube on the mains before you put the bearings in I've seen everyone do it before just asking
What kind of power are you expecting to make?
Good video
Question, tried looking on forums but couldnt find it maybe you would know...
How come on the obd1 gsr it comes with oil cooler but on obd2 gsr it doesnt did they take it off for a good reason?
Quick question, do GSR blocks take oil pans with the sump at cylinder 1? It looks lile your pan is place incorrectly.
What ring gap specs did u go with?
So how did the engine last was it reliable?
hunter, I built a d16 turbo, stock internals, snapped a rod on 15psi haha, I'm having my local machine shop build me a block, I supplied all the parts, this guy is going to bore, hone, set up my block with my speed factory rods and Vitara pistons, he's supplying the block and the crank, what do you think he will charge me?
JakeChevy Suzuki I would have done it for free. The speed factory rods really do take the hardwork entirely out of the equation. No notching of the cylinder sleeves or girdle is requiered.
We'd have that d16 machined and assembled in about 3 hours max. Good luck.
J Kay yeah he told me like 400-500$ to check my head, bore and hone and assemble
JakeChevy Suzuki I'll give you my prices and specs for reference.
$20 per cylinder to bore from 75mm to 75.5mm so .020" over.
piston to wall spec of .025"
thats what SpeedFactory ran on their whp record holding vitara build.
.018" ring end gap clearence for compression ring #1
.020" ring end gap for compression ring #2
oil control rings untouched.
Spend the money and get a Honda factory d16z6 oil pump or buy a badguysworldwide ported z6 oil pump 😁
oh yea and $18 a cylinder for the hone, should feel coarse if u run ur finger up on the sleeve and smooth when u run ur finger down the sleeve. A slow rpm with the hone will achieve acceptable cross hatching.
can this flat top turbo piston run pump gas...here we only have ron97/100
what ring gap are you running on 1st and 2nd ring?
Whats the name of the blue? Looks awesome!
Electron pearl blue. Thanks!
Is that a H beam or i beam?
Great video I'm doing a b18b1 build I wouldn't mind your opinion how can I contact yiu?
Stefano Johnson I’m going to build my b18b1 too but my car smokes a lot in idle (white/blueish) but once I take off and even when I’m at 7.5k I see no smoke only at idle
Where’s the top end build for this couldn’t find it
I hate to criticize but put the crank in first so that u can tighten the caps 1 at a time and spin the crank one bearing at a time so if something seems tight u will know what one to check just my own way
Joshua Zickler yep I agree. I just hate installing rod/ piston with crank in sometimes rod can hit crank ect. Just my way
Joshua Zickler ALWAYS install and torque the main cap / girdle BEFORE doing anything to do with the rods. If you torque your rods before the mains you run a good chance of warping / snapping your crankshaft when you do button down you main cap / girdle.
J Kay ok. Kinda doubt it and honestly if you think I’m some fancy engine builder your wrong. I just do backyard shit I have experience with and what works. I stem from sloppy mechanics. He inspired me to make a TH-cam channel.
Thanks for the advice though
HunterTuned its cool, if it works it works.
I just know what Honda does from the factory and why, no harm in bringing it up.
The work you do is GOLDEN compared to a lot of shit I see so perfecting will only make you better.
J Kay thank you
Great info
I’m building a Gsr and trying to shoot for big power . I see that you said something about not sleeving the block I would love to stay with stock because that saves money lol so I guess my question is can I build high hp with stock sleeves and what about a block guard what u think of them . I also see you can do a boost by gear in other of you videos I love that what do u recommend dude thank u so much bro
Head assemble up next
Are those rods no notch? I want to get some no notch rods for my b18b1 block
dont have to notch with a b series only single cams
HunterTuned thanks man, once I start building my engine I’ll send you pics
wow dude young ass man lol
You are not supposed to use a mallet to beat the piston in. That is how you chip rings. You are supposed to wiggle the piston in and give a light tap when needed - not beat it in. You don't see issues with your engines because you probably do not run them over 100k miles being built, they probably blow up from a tuning wear issue/ or are sold off before then. Thanks for the video but some stuff you are skipping around on I believe to be important.
When the cam fell so did i🤣
hey man his your dad doing that you moved out hope he doing good
You didn’t install the oil pick up/pump
Where r u from ?
You worked the camera til it passed out lmao poor 📷
Everytime i put on gloves 14:23
screw the book! slam that shit together I wanna hear turbo noises!!!
IM GOING TO CHANGE TO FLAT TOP WISECO PISTON....
Cam drops lol. Like a stripper running away when you have Dave Shapeil nickels to tip with. Lol
Hope you're not turbo this engine ! Must have sleves for turbos
😂 I you have no clue what your talking about.
That engine bay looks like you could eat off of it!