How To Fix GE Microwave Oven (Phillips Vision: Episode - 30)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- Andrew Phillips shows how to fix a GE Microwave Oven with a blown Thermal Fuse. GE Model: #JVM3160RF3SS. Thermal Fuse: KSD201 70
* The video did not clearly show this, but in order to properly test the continuity of a thermal
fuse, you must heat it up to approx. 150 degrees. Using a hair dryer will usually do the job. This
fuse WILL NOT show continuity until it is hot.
DISCLAIMER:
The individual featured on the Phillips Vision TH-cam Channel identified as Andrew Phillips, also known as Andy Phillips is not a professional mechanic, contractor or certified repairman. He does not have any formal training in the automotive field, or any other trade. He is strictly a Do It Yourself handyman.
Phillips Vision, or the individuals featured on this channel, assume no liability for anything you choose to do to your vehicles, appliances, games or any other items featured in the videos before, or after watching one of the videos or utilizing the content from this channel.
All Do it Yourself (DIY) repairs or modifications you perform are at your own risk. Proper safety precautions are always needed, and are the responsibility of the viewer to follow. In some cases, even if you perform everything properly, you can destroy or damage one or more things you are working on resulting is costly repairs.
In addition, if for some reason, the instructions on this channel are incorrect, resulting it something becoming damaged, Phillips Vision and those featured on this channel WILL NOT reimburse or pay in any way the costs that may be incurred due to following wrong instructions.
PLEASE DO NOT PERFORM ANYTHING SHOWN ON THIS CHANNEL (PHILLIPS VISION) UNLESS YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE AND CONFIDENT TO DO SO. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Thanks, bro! To the point, very clear, no wasted time and no stupid music. Appreciated!
You are a freakin' genius! I was in the process of selling my home and as soon as I put it up for sale my microweave stopped working. I was infuriated at the costs of shelling out over $800 for a new microwave that the new owner would enjoy. Instead I searched online and found your video on YT. Thank you so much! The switch cost me $6.65 on Amazon, I had it overnighted through my Primiae account and installed it in less than 15 minutes. I was microwaving popcorn a moment after that. I cannot than you enough!!!! God Bless You Sir!
Awesome, glad it helped
I'm nearing 86 years old, so I got my handyman neighbor over to follow your video instruction. He quickly found the little tube fuse blown. I went to Lowe's and got a package of two for less than $3.00. He put it in and everything worked. HOWEVER, when we turned it on to heat a bottle for a grandchild, the unit went dead again. I noticed a comment in here about clicking a stuck door switch being a fix, so I tackled the fix myself. Replaced fuse. Clicked door switch. Proceeded to heat water for 3 minutes. Fixed (for now). Next breakdown I know what to do to get it going again! Thanks, young feller!
Ferrell Asbell you’re welcome, glad it helped👍
Great video. Thanks. The comment about how to test the thermal fuse was of great help. In my case the use was blown when opening the door while the microwave oven was in operation. changed it and it is working like a charm. keep up the good work sir.
Sergio Botero thanks 👍
Wonderful video with closeup shots. Great explanation. I learned a lot from your video as well as from viewers' comments. Thanks again.
Excellent! This helped me. My thermal fuse was burned and didn't realize I needed to check the micro-switches too. Thanks for the help.
This was a great video...I'm glad I saw the part in the description that you added stating to heat up the thermal fuse. Looks like mine is just dead in the water. Thanks for posting this video!
Thanks, man! This was very helpful. I was able to diagnose which thermal fuse and microswitch was bad with your help.
Great Video Andrew, I was able to disassemble and remove the upper of three Micro NC switches that was not working. I flooded interior of micro switch with Denatured alcohol, lightly air blew and returned it to working order. reassembled after degreasing everything. Works great, Thanks.
This was a HUGE help! Thank you!!! You saved me $400! I made a hasty decision and ran right out and purchased a new microwave. I was frustrated as the microwave was only 4.5 yrs old. I came home, watched the video, found the bad thermo fuse, ordered it and put it in. Easy. THANK YOU!
William Burns glad it helped
Where did you order if from please?
Mine is about the same model as this one. Was tripping breaker at startup. Turns out the middle switch button was stuck, now it’s working fine for zero cost. Initially we called a repair company that couldn’t be out for a week and charge would be $110 just to come out, not including repair cost. Nice feeling to save $$$$, especially these days! Thank you for the video!
Brilliant. Helped me diagnose a blown fuse and working switches. Thanks for your diligence to post this.
You saved me prob $400 of repairs. I went to Home Depot and got a multimeter and then ordered the thermal fuse. It’s the EXACT same issue and the exact same fuse! Thank you so much for this tutorial!
Hi -- Where did you order the thermal fuse from please? Any model / part #?... thank you so much.
This video is the best. Other videos don't mention the screwdrivers, but you do! Thank you sir!
Very informative video, I'm a maintenance tech at an apartment complex and all the units have microwaves, i have a couple of pending tickets that concern microwaves and this vid really helps
Hi, Phil, thank you very much for your video. I fixed my GE Microwave Oven following your steps. Truly appreciate it.
Awesome, glad it helped
Thank You!!!! It worked! I told my husband to watch your video and it worked! Didn't have to buy a new microwave! Happy wife, happy life!🥰
Awesome, glad it helped
Phillips Vision, Thank you ! My JVM3160 stopped abruptly when I opened the door to stop a heat up. And, the 20 amp main fuse shattered... broken glass! The door opening event was a clue to replace all three door interlock micro switches. They're so cheap I didn't bother to figure which one faulted. All that cost about $21 Amazon... much cheaper had I the patience to go to a hardware store for parts. Your video taught me how to easily open up the unit... BIG HELP.
so you opened the door rather than pressing the stop button? and then opening the door?
@@caelidhg6261 Yes. I’ve always just opened the door to stop microwaves. I guess I’m using the interlock as a stop button. I did replace all three door switches. But the problem recurred. I really believe that the root cause is that the microwave door deformed over time and that one of the switches would not make (or, unmake) when the door opened. That is… a bit of door sag or melt over time. I eventually replaced the unit with a similar model. I noticed the new model had a stronger door and lower temperature setting on the fan switch. Kinda’ the manufacturer admitting the problem. Sorry for long-winded answer, Carlidh!
that is what happened with us. I opened the microwave in the middle of the heating ... without turning it off first (how many of us do that????) lOL
@@negocios0rsk yeah, we had it serviced last year for that problem. Sigh.. seems to be a bad model.
Thank you, great video. The way you explained it makes it so much easier 👍
elbis aquino glad it helped, thanks for the feedback
6/24 21 Thanks so much for carefully visble features on the video. Finally our GE microwave is working again. Praise the Lord! He helped me too.
You saved my bacon. My family will think I’m a hero. Thank you so much for this clear-cut and easy to follow video.
Glad it helped 👍
Dude!!! This was a Microwave Master Class. Thank You!!!
Bryant DORSEY thanks, I’m glad it helped 👍
Thanks for a video that was really thorough in diagnosing and repairing this microwave. Two things were different in my DIY was that the fuse was blown and there was another screw at the bottom of the control panel that I had to remove so I could slide the control panel up and off. I really liked that you showed us how to test the thermal fuses and the door switches. I replaced the fuse and the middle door switch. The hardest time I had was to swing out panel with the microswitches because I have catchers mitts for hands.
After watching your video I checked it out and the middle door switch button was stuck, causing the breaker to trip at startup. Thanks for your video, figure I saved at least $200 for repair service!
Never as easy as it looks but absolutely worked and saved me $hundreds. It was a failed micro switch that cost under $3.00 to replace (and I never heard of a micro switch before this video). Nicely done Mr. Phillips.
Jim Myers thanks for the feedback, glad it helped👍
Thanks for the video. I have the JVM3160RF8SS (so newer rev of the same microwave). I only had it one year and one month and the second from the right display digit flickers lightly. I figure at some point I will have to replace the panel board so seeing how to get the panel off was very helpful. P.S. to everyone. My last GE last over 20 years. This POS already has this issue so I would stay away from GE. Thanks again.
Great video! Totally boosted my confidence for fixing my own microwave. Thanks a lot👍
Where did you get thermal fuse? having a hard time finding it.
Great video on this most common problem. In my case, the switch holder was slightly moving and making one switch break contact if you gently pulled on the door, blowing the fuse since the other two switches were still made. If you notice on the switch holder piece, there is a place for a third screw by the lower switch. I added a screw here and it took out the excess play and now works as intended. It sure looks like it was made for a third screw as the case has the hole also, GE just cut corners and left it out.
I think I am having the same problem. What do you mean by "place for a third screw"?. I don't see any screws. Help appreciated thank you
In the video, the left thermal fuse beeped when tested at room temp, indicating that it is a NC (normally closed) thermal fuse, and is ‘Good’. The right thermal fuse did not beep at room temp during continuity test. The video is a great one and very useful one.
Sweet Memories the fuse MUST be heated to 150 in order to read continuity. I failed to show that in the vid but mention it in my notes. Hope this helps
Are you saying the one you changed should be NO at room temp?
A quick follow-up to my comment about four months ago. So, I had a micro switch that was sticking and I was able to buy some time by simply pressing it through the lower door latch to release it. But, eventually it started tripping the circuit breaker so often that I decided to replace it. I found a pack of three switches on Amazon for $9.90 (KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc(Normally Open & Normally Close) (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Close)) and replaced all three of them today. Now, I have a working microwave again! Oh, and I tested the thermal fuse by heating it up with a hair dryer for about 20 seconds and it worked too. Thanks for the video and the tips! I probably would've bought a new microwave instead repairing it for under ten bucks.
Is your microwave a GE JVM 3160? I would like to buy that three pack of switches on Amazon, Thank you
@@craighatten7373 Yes, that's the one...and I wish I never bought it. But, you can buy the switches at smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZFNPZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mikescott66 yes unit is way too young to be having so many problems, thank you for your quick response to confirm model! I will order these switches tonight!
Replacing the fuse worked for me. Thank you so much for this video, this saved me from buying a new microwave!
Was the panel working but not the actual microwave?????
Thank you for your help. It save me time and money. Great video
Thanks so much!! I have a different model of GE oven but the layout is the same. Thanks for helping me find the"hidden screw" holding in the panel. Bad switch and bad thermostat.
Glad it helped 👍
I'm definitely going to try this over the weekend I'll be back. Thanks for the information❤
thanks, your that fixed my microwave! your video was straight to the point.
Larry Cobb glad it helped👍
Dude thank you. Clear and informative yet short. Bravo. I'mma go fix my microwave now.
great job explaining how to take the unit apart.
My display worked but didn't cook. It was the safety switches, but a misalignment, not a switch failure. I figured it out by pulling slightly on the door and it started working. I just added a small pad used in the bottom of a chair leg to slightly prop the door out when closed and that fixed it. Thanks for your overview and look-see inside to prompt me to look at the safety interlock switched first.
You rock. Helped me for Xmas. Thank you.
Thank you for making this video!
Great video..saved me some $$$. My model is a GE JVM3160DF4WW. My microwave was tripping my breaker the moment you started to cook something. Same thermal fuse on mine was faulty.
Always nice to have a Pro show ya the ropes. Fellow Creator from Cali joined your Channel and gave it a like, watched Ad’s and whole video. Thank you for your advise👍
Gary's Sprinkler Repair thanks for the support👍
Very well done video. Short and to the point.
Team Zud Thanks
Great video. We now know how to take our microwave apart and how the door switches work.
Thanks for making this helpful video.
Nice job on the video. Concise and to the point. Thanks..
69 Indian thx, I appreciate the feedback
Great video. I have the exact same microwave and that thermal fuse should test open. It brings on the blower fan when it senses extreme heat.
It's really a 70 v thermostat and not a thermal fuse. It is normally open until the temperature gets above 150 degrees. F.
Andrew - Thanks for the really great upload....I just repaired my JVM3160RF2SS....just one number off. On my oven the top microswitch is a closed switch(in other words has continuity)....perhaps yours is different. In testing my thermal switches.....the far right as you face the oven tested open. Investigating, I found that it needed to be heated to 150 degrees to close the circuit. You were a life-saver and money saver for us. Many thanks and God Bless, Tom
Tom Nekuda thanks for the comment👍
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
You’re welcome, glad it helped
This was very helpful for me. I tested the switches on the door and continuity was there so tested the only thermal fuse I saw and it also had continui. ty. Now after looking at the schematic, I see another thermal fuse and a 20 Amp fuse. Now I have to figure out the location for them. The oven comes on and runs including the turntable, lights,clock, etc. It just doesn't heat even though power level on the display shows 10 which is the highest setting. I think the other Tcu and slo blo my be on top with the capacitor.
great video, spend a fortune in fuses for almost a year, sometimes had to install new fuses 5 times a day , finally found this video, thermal fuse in my oven was bad ,switches were good, thanks
Thanks for the video. Without it, I would not know how to disassemble the control panel. My issue was the glass fuse located under the grate behind the control panel, which was obviously blown and cracked. It's easy to replace, just like an older auto fuse but it's 20Amp 125Volts and the common ones in hardware stores apparently are 250 Volts. They might work fine but to get an original OEM fuse I had to order from Amazon who had them in stock.
Hi. I am having similar issues. The microwave is located in a rental property which is quite a drive for me. Any chance you might have the link from where you got your blown fuse? This would be great help. Thanks in advance.
Awesome video, thanks so much.
Outstanding work brother!!!
Thank you 👍
Thank you so much for this video.. you make me fix my Microwave.
Very nice work 👍
This video literally saved me hundreds of dollars. Thanks so much!!!
Pete McClelland glad it helped
Finally my microwave is working as expected. This video is very helpful to understand how to open the microwave and disassemble the parts and where and what to test. Thanks @PhilipVision for that info.
However @OGThinkster guided me how to test correctly especially the Thermalfuse(which initially I thought was bad) and the microswitches. One should understand how these microswitches work. And finally the fuse part which is blown due to the bad parts.
It is a great when you fix something in just $11 and save a $145 on buying a new microwave but the feeling to fix on your own is irreplaceable .. Thx all the community for your comments and inputs.
Hi Again, unfortunately I have the same issue again i.e no power. All Micro-switches are working fine I.e. reading the right continuity when door is closed vs Open but the main fuse keep blowing after using microwave for 3-4 times. Initially I thought it was incorrect fuse type so I ordered the same as mentioned by GE which is 20A 125V.
But that fuse also gone bad after a day or two. Can someone please guide what should I check now? Why the fuse is keep blowing?
Pls note The left thermal fuse has continuity and right does not which I assume is correct based on comments by other folks. Any help is appreciated.
🎉 👍Thank you a TON Phillips Vision! !…….✨ 🌟 ⭐️ ✨ 🌟 ….. Saved me having to buy a new microwave 😃 Had a bad door switch. 🙏 THANK YOU! 🙏
Awesome, glad it helped 👍
Thank you, this helped a lot 😊
Thanks for the help. Funny, I had the same thermal fuse go bad as in your video.
Excellent video mate. Very elaborative and helpful. I have a bad thermal fuse as well. Was a quick and easy fix owing to your video. Thanks for the upload.
Abhi B thanks for the comment, glad it helped👍
My same model was flipping the breaker every now and then when opening the door. Then it would open and close without the breaker flipping but would flip the breaker when turned on. I followed the direction in the video. The lower door latch has two switches on a pivot latch. one closes the circuit when the door is closed and the other closes the circuit when the door is opened. It a redundancy but it prevents the microwave from running if for some reason the upper and lower switches malfunction. That secondary open door switch was causing a short and the problem. The thermal fuses were OK and the upper/ lower door closed switches were OK. Back in business. Thanks
Great instructions
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the help making a simple repair saving me $$$$$
Thanks for the great video. I also have the GE #JVM3160RF3SS. Mine was less than three years old. It turned out to be a failure of the middle switch. I was a bit confused as to whether my top switch was broken or not, so i did replace that one also. I did take the right Thermal fuse out and heat it up with a hair dryer and then it showed continuity. So thanks to the comments from others here, I knew the thermal fuse was okay. I called GE and asked if they would send me these two switch parts free because the MV is not very old. They put me on hold for a bit and then said they would. The price would have been $40 and $26 respectively. I suppose these parts cost GE about $5 each. Anyway, it was a nice gesture of them to do. I received the parts a few days later and installed the two parts and now my microwave is working! : ) Thanks for the nice video... very helpful.
JBrowninKC thanks for the feedback, glad it helped👍
What was your microwave doing exactly before the repair?
This is a much better video than those creeps at the repair clinic puts out and then attempt to get you to put malware onto your computer.
Thank you, it was a great help!!!!
👍
Thanks, you are right, works now
Just wanted to drop a thanks, helpful video.
Thanks for the comment, glad it helped
@@PhillipsVision turned out the thermo fuse was bad! Thanks again!!!
BWAHAHA! I FINALLY took out one of the leads on the cursed beeper/speaker! NO MORE BEEPING! Especially every minute after it finishes warming my food! Oh man, I suffered for years, and it only took 20 minutes, including looking at videos on TH-cam. THANK YOU! (I just needed this video to see how to get to the control panel).
Glad it helped👍
Nice video. Very descriptive. When I start my microwave 1 second after I start it. I have a bad smell of burning rubber. I don't use it because of this issue. I have the GE spacemaker. Thanks. Bill
Slow Cooker Bill yes, do not use it. That may be caused by bad electrical components. Have a repair center look at it before using it.
Thank You Sir
It work.Thanks alot
thanks for video
thao le you’re welcome
Also just to add that I have the exact GE model JVM3160RF3SS looking for that KSD201 70 thermal fuse.
4:45 The thermal fuse on the right is supposed to be normally open circuit at room temperature. It controls the vent fan. So when you measured it and got no “beep” on your multimeter, that actually means it’s good. It’s designed to close the circuit for the vent fan (turn on the fan) if it senses high temperature. I learned this the hard way: I watched this video and replaced it… with a normally closed circuit thermal cut off, and then the vent fan ran constantly. It was only when I put the old one back it did I realize the mistake. The other thermal sensor is supposed to be a normally closed circuit, only breaking the circuit when it gets too hot (meaning it should keep power flowing to the microwave generator, but safely cutting power if it overheats.)
I explained this in the description of the video since the video did not show it
You’re right, it doesn’t show it… instead it shows you measuring the room temp sensor in place and saying it definitely needs to be replaced followed by your measurement of a new sensor (the wrong one) showing a closed circuit condition at room temp. In retrospect I should have been suspicious when you didn’t show the microwave working after the repair, probably because you didn’t want to explain why the fan is running constantly. I’m not trying to be a jerk, but this is all very misleading. To be fair though, showing how to check the door switches was very informative as that, along with the blown supply fuse, was the only actual problem with my microwave.
Saved my butt1. Thanks it was thermal #KSD201 and learned a lot here.
good video
I happen to have the exact same microwave as the one shown in this video. After using it for the past couple years, it suddenly started tripping the circuit breaker in our outside breaker box upon pressing start. After watching many videos, including this one, I found out that there was an easy fix that didn't involve replacing any switches. It was merely that the switch on the lower door catch had become stuck, probably due to heat, moisture, grease, etc. After simply pressing on it with a screwdriver while the door was open (no need to remove the control panel at all), it became free (started clicking) and the microwave worked again! Hope this might help someone. ;)
Mike Scott thanks for the input, greatly appreciated 👍
The comment from Mike was my exact findings as well, stuck lower micro switch.
Tom Robertson thx for the input👍
Thanks. That was the problem with my microwave.
Mike Scott, thanks for your idea. It helped me a lot. I was almost about to order the thermal fuse (thermostat). I also saw the same info about it not showing continuity out of the box. Then I started reading comments and found your input. It saved my time and money. Thank you.
I have the same microwave oven and learned from the documentation that came with the oven that the right hand “thermal fuse” is actually a thermostat whose contacts close at 158 F. The contact is supposed to be open.
So does this mean that you shouldn’t get a continuity beep if it’s working correctly? His new one beeps so I’m confused
@@burrowsforge3538 Maybe I am not understanding what should be happening here either, but I heated the thermostat to 170F and it still doesn't work. I am not fully confident in the video in part because the microwave is not powered up and working at the end. I see that others are getting units to work based on the video when they have door switch problems so I'll try that too.
Searched for that thermostat online, and I have found people in comments on Amazon who say that this video is wrong about the thermostat (or what he calls a "thermal fuse") and they bought that part for $30 plus dollars and waited months for delivery only to have that not be the problem. I have pulled out the door switches and will order a new set on Amazon for cheap. Also, I have little confidence that this video is right about which door switches should be open and which should be closed when the switches are removed, so I will double check that somewhere else as well. To be clear, I have the same model as in the video and when everything is working, the display on the control panel is lit up (and it is not at the end of the video). If you have this same model or another GE model, there is a small glass 20 amp fuse behind the metal grate on the upper right hand side of the unit (you can see it through the grate). The first thing I changed was that fuse (it was obviously blown--and the video doesn't mention it), which got my microwave working again, but when I opened the door before the unit stopped running, that fuse blew again. I felt that that probably meant one or more of the door switches are bad, but I started testing the two thermostats as shown in the video first (and before I saw the negative comments regarding this video on Amazon). The thermostat on the left in the video is called the "bottom thermostat" in the ge documentation and the one that he changed in the video on the right is called the "hood thermostat". The bottom thermostat (the one on the left) opens at 248F so getting a hot reading from the makes sense. Doug Larson is right that the hood thermostat on the right closes at 158F (which means there shouldn't be a reading from it at room temp), so I am taking for granted that either I don't understand what fan should be kicking on at 158F (I heard all of the usual fan noise when I changed the fused) or I need to change that thermostat too sometime down the road. I'll wait on that and work on the door switches first.
@@brianburns9287 I think you are exactly correct. I was confused by these things in this video as well. The fuse that he replaces is a "thermo-switch" and is the Hood Thermal Cut-off Device. It is normally open and closes at high temps to give power to the fan, or hood. He mistakenly interprets the open reading as the problem. Then his replacement part confusingly reads closed at room temp, which it should not. Not sure what is going on here but thank you for thoroughly writing this out so I know I'm not the only one who sees a problem with this video.
Yes - the fuse on the right is the 'FAN' thermostat. I replaced it as per this video only to discover that the replacement I was given was a problem as it had continuity. With electricity going through it the fan stayed on night and day. So - the video is wrong. That fan fuse should NOT have continuity unless the heat of the stove under it bends whatever is in there and creates contact, so turning the fan on automatically as a safety thing. FYI, inside that front panel you will also find a technical specification sheet folded tight and tucked inside a channel. It described this one thermostat under the fan notes, and gives the degrees of temperature at which it should close and make contact to activate the fan.
Thank you
Thanks this helped,but the switches were not engaging,sounds hokey,but put toothpicks behind the switches to tighten them up and it worked.
Mark Ramos cool, thx for the input
hi great video helpful will use it to repair my ge. i would have liked to see the meter reading on each switch check. your arm covered it. tnx agn.
Correct that thermocouple on the right closes at temp increase, so if you test for continuity there will be none until the temp heats up turning on the fan 😉
Mine was turning on the fan every time I opened the door and then today it died after a power outage. Going to change the 20 amp fuse first tomorrow and then change that if it doesn't fix it.
I highly recommend need to Wear a this Robber gloves 🧤🧤 b.c. the electronic board might be short from statics discharged.
I just Subscribed 👍
This is a very helpful video. I have difficulty to disconnect the micro switch. It is too tight. I just can not get it off.
Can’t remove the electrical harness from the switch, or can’t remove the switch from the microwave?
Thanks....
Good video no extra BS
I have the exactly same microwave second one I bought in 4 years i reloaded the first one without trying to fix it but since it happened again I see this is common - I’m surprised it wasn’t your switch and was the thermal fuse I don’t have a meter and need one to test it
Video helped greatly but the KSD201 70 thermostat fuse was a NO, normally open fuse. I'm guessing the fuse in the video was good because of no reading. By heating up to 158 deg ? should close. If I'm not misstaking KSD201 120 is NC , but this one in video on the JVM3160RF3SS was good. I took mine out to replace of a NO reading to find out it was correct. Other than that great video.
Instead of removing the panel with all the micro switches, just leave them in and then physically close the microwave door. Then test your switches. Then open the door. Test the switches again. You can easily access the terminals without removing the switches. Of course if one of them is bad, you'll need to remove the panel.
I did the same thing. A heck of a lot easier! Great video though!
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I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.
@Owen Walter Instablaster =)
@Adrien Rudy Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Adrien Rudy It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
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This helps a lot. Thank you , seems like I have same problem with same part. Where did you get your parts from?
Neerav Patel you can get the part on Amazon
Neerav Patel My thermal fuse tested fine. Turned out to be the middle micro switch on the door.
@@PhillipsVision Links please! I can't navigate the waters of fuses. Can you send me a link to the GE JVM3160RF2SS fuse (not OEM, but a cheaper alternative)?
@@aimiloo the fuse is very hard to find. I found one on Amazon but it’s not available anymore. You may want to reach out to GE.
This is a great video, thanks for the clear description. I changed the door switch and also the thermal fuse. But, when I put the microwave back after replacing them, the fan won’t turn off. What could cause that?
Ramesh R the exhaust fan thermostat may need to be replaced
I found that the thermal switch I purchased was of a wrong part number. The correct one, KSD201 70 fixed the problem. Thanks Phillips Vision for helping me!
Ramesh R
I have the same issue. I purchased the thermal switch from repairclinic.com and the fan stays on .., can you please advise, from where did you order the KSD01 70 ???
Rohit Yeolekar, here is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/GE-Microwave-Thermostat-WB27X11213-/274463916314
I’ll check the part number at the bottom. It should match the one that you currently have.
Rohit Yeolekar sounds like your exhaust fan thermostat has failed. I bought mine from Amazon
Well did it work
Good video and very helpful but.... I'm surprised you didn't show the main mother board fuse. It's easy to get to and
a very common reason for no power to a GE microwave.
We have watched your video which is very concise on instructions but we are still having issues. Our microwave has blown 4 fuses in the last month. We have checked the thermal fuses and the door locks. None the parts needed to be replaced so we put it back together and it heated up once but now although the light and the turntable are working it is not heating. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video - very helpful. Are there any other fuses besides the 2 thermal fuses?
John Burkhart you may also have a line fuse
Yes, the main fuse is behind the silver grate above the switches. I think it gets blown from bad door switches or bad thermal fuses.
Your Video was of great help to me. But what if the glass fuse is blown?
Is this for a microwave that's not heating things up, or is it for no power to the unit? Mine has no power at all. Checked the breaker and plug and all is fine. Could it be these issues? Btw, great video. Very informative either way. Thank you.
The problem with mine was that the "ramp" the door locks ride up on were
worn out enough to not compress the middle switch. This caused the fuse
to blow when the unit was turned on. A new Latch Board [WB06X10610]
fixed it.