Shout out from Seneca SC. I've been watching you guys for awhile, and I want to tell you that you take me back to another place and time. I'm currently 56 yrs old. When I was in high school back in the early 80's I woorked on a local dairy farm here, just up the road. It was a herringbone parlor, with 4 on each side. Numbers varied but in the 65 to 80 or so. I didn't have much cow contact, mostly worked the ag side since they had a dedicated dairyman. We did the usual hay and different silage types, some shell corn mixed in also. Cows also had pellet feed in the parlor. There were 2 concrete silos used for corn, and 1 Harveststore for mixed stuff like beans and milo. Most all tractors were old even then. Super 88 Oliver diesel, 2 different type 530 Cases, 656 International Hydro, loved that one. 8600 Ford for plowing. Even had a small Versatile that was mostly used to pull a large wet manure spreader. Had Hesston mower and baler, and Field Queen chopper with corn and windrow heads. Two men could do most of the farming, with exception of a added truck driver for silage since we used a dump cart behind the Queen instead of chopper wagons. Not much left of that place now. The family has passed away. Nothing remains there now but the land and memories of life 40 years ago.
5,451 hours! Heck, that baby is just getting broken in! Our 686 hour meter quit working at 9,500 hours years ago, and I’m pretty sure it’s got over 12,000 hours on the D312 engine. It’s definitely a little tired, and has some blow by, but it still does most of the work on our small farm. I’ve got a little fund going in a shoebox to have the engine rebuilt before too much longer, and then I anticipate many more years of good work out of it. Simply outstanding tractors. Oh, and since you guys were talking about those brake assemblies on different equipment, I can confirm a John Deere 4400 combine has the same basic setup with some added hydraulic components, but same friction disk assembly. Great video guys!
On our farm our 🚜s got used alot.Many many hours of hard hard work.We kept them up but many hours and hard work made them break. For sure parts are way out of site!! We never had time to do much work on tractors so had to take to our John Deere dealer.We had one the best around.If they fixed something it was done right and at a fair price.Having good dealers is priceless now days. Thanks 😊.
I love that you keep your equipment under cover .I hate it when I see a 100k baler sitting in the field where the last bale was made when the farm has multiple sheds around the farm empty all winter . and their equipment outside covered with mud dirt manure etc,etc and probably never had a grease gun on it since it was bought . One of my pet leaves !!
Had a super m back in the day, would get stuck in 5th gear and reverse if you were on a incline. Shift rails were worn bad, but the brakes always held.
I remember when I was in FFA our chapter had two tractors to work on sadly I didn't get to work on the two tractors much. We had one Ford Tractor and One Minneapolis Moline. They were both gas tractors. I got to help put the grease Zerks in one of them.
Expanding disk brakes are a love and hate system. Love them when they worked, hated them otherwise. You can probably put something behind the adjusting nut to take up more slack.
It's just become stupid how expensive some things have gotten and how poor the quality has become. It's a good thing you all are resourceful and skilled. I remember my grandpa always fixing and making things. It's an important part of farming. Thank you for sharing the video. Stay safe and God bless.
On the 7405, when you pull it apart, check the main housing, where the steel sealing rings go on the shaft they wear in to the housing and lets oil bypass, hopefully it’s just a o ring or teflon seal, if you would like to talk leave contact info in your comment, im just a farmer mechanic, but have done a couple of them, thanks for the videos, You guys do a great job
At least there in separate housing AC had the similar system but on the end of the final drives😢nice job. Had a 200 AC now it was in the same area as your 686 way simpler. Thanks Men !!
Hey the part that broke inside the brake housing. If you cut that part of flat. Drilled it out the same side bolt and Tap the hole threaded that part and put a bolt in with the thread you need and tack weld it then your outside adj. Will move like new. But you guys are good you will get it. Just think what you could do with a machine lathe. Just think of the thing that could be fixed and you would not have to be good with the lathe. Great videos
The MFWD clutch housing on your 7405 should be spring applied and hydraulically released. You will need a press to get the assembly all apart. Once you get it put back together, use something to put power to that solenoid on the back and used compressed air to act as your oil to test it and see if it releases.
I think when John Deere came out with the 3010 and 4010 the brake system was very advanced over everything else on the market and from personal experience gave thousands of hours of service, but when they need service it's a big project and while you're there you might as well change all the axle bearings which get expensive. The two cylinder tractors, Farmalls and Oliver tractors were not a big deal to fix.
Something I've learned on the farm all disc brake system. Once you have everything cleaned and back together. Do not tighten your drum tight just run it up snug. Make your adjustments to you push the pedal out as far as it can go. Then tighten your drum your brakes should release and not stick
Well those hours that tractor isn't even broken in yet lol I love the old internationals on the farm where I worked we had a 966 that had over 9,000 hours on it and I still have my super in I'm still trying to figure out how to be buried on it. You guys do a wonderful job and I enjoy your videos very much it does my heart good to see a family that is working together in farming. And God bless your family ❤️
Thanks for the video. Get a puffer bottle of graphite powder and puff the powder under the rubber cover at the front of the brake housing several times a year. This works on Massey Ferguson and Fordson with the same style of brakes.Loows those balls to climb the ramps better.
Had to replace the brake disks on our 656...sooo the parts looked very similar. Bought 4 new shims to go along with extras that I had removed. Went to Stollers in Smithville, OH and got some extra salvage shims. Cleaned up the older corroded ones and put them between the better ones. One helpful item is putting Never Sieze on the threaded adjusters. Helps make future dissasembly easier.
Cool Video..& Tractor..But 5,000 Hours on a Tractor Made When That One Was Is Just Now Getting Broke in Good...Buy a new one today an it is Wore slap out & redy for the scrap bin at 5,000 Hours ! Very Glad to see you all doing the same things we do here in Eastern Ky in the foot hills of the Appalachian Mountain's !
Daughter-in-law was watching over my shoulder, saw 2 brake pedals and was alarmed. She thinks there's already too many pedals. Not everyone knows. :) Good luck with the JD!
I've done a couple of those John Deere mechanical four-wheel-drive solenoids, and O-ring replacement. If your 7405 is like the other small frame 7000 tractors, there is a port that you can put in a gauge and actually check the oil pressure. If the oil is leaking by the O-ring, you will see it. Kind of gives you an opportunity to check it when you put it back together to before you really put everything back together. I usually put high quality grease on the O-rings, so when it slides together there's less of a chance of cutting them.
That’s a nice tractor. I have a 656 gas with a loader that does all the chores. It’s been a great dependable tractor. Thanks for another great video! God Bless
Finding old airbrake trailer, and the clevis that goes, slack adjuster to the break-chamber ,should be half inch rod, and I believe a very similar clevis
You fixed those brakes exactly as I did on my 656. Weld er up at put it back in service. You should get in touch with Larsen lights and get your tractors lit up good to make chores after dark more enjoyable. While it’s not always ideal to work after dark it’s much more enjoyable with good lights!
This system is very similar to a case 580C backhoe brake system except the 580C also has brake shoes which is what expands the discs. Its a Bendix brake system. They work pretty good until the shaft seals leak which happened on my 580C which then required seal replacement and more. Good video.
Got six of them tractors running around the farm here and used to break alot of them. I started using never seize on that ball nut and down in that cavity where it kinda pivots. Very rare to break one since then. I think it was getting too dry and not able pull straight trying to bend thread rod slightly. Oil or grease in there probably work also.
There ought to be a threaded yoke of some kind available that is the right length to get the job done,and as you said you could take the threads out of the ball end nut and then double nut it.
Hi Guys. I love your channel so much. I’m a city girl and I learn a lot through your videos😊😊😊😊do you have merchandise for sale, i.e., sweatshirts, etc….. And have you considered having tours of your farm? That would be awesome to see👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
We used to go to Wisconsin tractor parts (now all states ag parts). The website says $115 for that brake adjustment rod but it might be cheaper for a used one. Their salvage yard was a few miles from where I lived but it's a good hike for you across the state
I know about brake adjustments! do you have a lathe? weld it up, turn it down! We were side hill farmers! Good job!! I operated an old JD B, with no brakes, until the wife found out!!
Paul from N.E. Iowa, I am not a huge international fan, but that's a nice tractor. I believe it also might be kind of rare, you don't see many. Perfect for picking Corn. Enjoy your videos, Have a Great Day!!!
I have a Case 930CK with that type of brake, only it has 3 friction disks. They work great after you stop. The dealer told me they were next to useless even when they were new. I only have a small Ford bailer and even that will push me down a hill with me standing on the pedal. The price of parts have gotten insane.
Only thing I would've done differently is bevel the rod so you can grind weld to original diameter. That would allow your adjuster to thread on better. If your other brakes were fine splined discs they were probably Lambert aftermarket discs. Those are pricy to replace.
Your shop needs a TIG welder added to the lineup! Someone welded about half the adjusting rods on my little JD950. It’s rough finding parts for as JD discontinued most replacements for the 850, 950 &1050…
Could you put a washer in first before the round nut, or did I not understand the issue? A machinist taught me years go to file something round rock the file.
In My opinion the band brakes were better than the disc until they put hydraulic behind them. My 656 has pretty good brakes going forward, but backwards almost the same as none. The discs get glazed over and don.t work too good.
Old 686? I remember when these came out. The overall design was similar through 3 series '56, '66, '86. When the '88 series was introduced with a radical new design, I dreamed of getting one of the last '86 series with the beautiful 'old' style. Now, you are calling the '86 series 'old'? Guess that makes me, uh, ancient????
I see you have a miller wire feed welder. What size is it and are you happy with it? Do you think it's the right size for your needs? I'm shopping around for one on my farm.
On your brake, would it work to buy a threaded yoke along with a length of threaded rod, then tack weld the rod to the yoke to stop it from turning,I think you can buy yokes on Amazon for about $10
Do you come across many narrow 686’s for sale out your way? Have had an eye out here in southern Ontario but haven’t come across any atall You’ve got a beauty there, awfully envious
George you need to pull some shims, worked on a 656 that wasn't alot of fun, but I had to get shims form cih that wasn't cheap but I got it fixed for the guy. You guys deal with Downing? They are pretty good with IH stuff 👌
One thing I like about our JD two-cylinder tractors vs the neighbors Farmall's, was the brakes were separated by the operators platform. This meant it was not necessary to operate both brakes with one foot.
The main tractor company's still have the old parts, but they price them out of reach so you will look at (Newer) equipment and tractors so they can sell you newer stuff! The (Young) Mechanics in the Dealerships don't have a clue about the older tractor and equipment, they've been trained on computers for the new stuff. I believe they don't even know about the repair manuals on the old stuff.
Shout out from Seneca SC. I've been watching you guys for awhile, and I want to tell you that you take me back to another place and time. I'm currently 56 yrs old. When I was in high school back in the early 80's I woorked on a local dairy farm here, just up the road. It was a herringbone parlor, with 4 on each side. Numbers varied but in the 65 to 80 or so. I didn't have much cow contact, mostly worked the ag side since they had a dedicated dairyman. We did the usual hay and different silage types, some shell corn mixed in also. Cows also had pellet feed in the parlor. There were 2 concrete silos used for corn, and 1 Harveststore for mixed stuff like beans and milo. Most all tractors were old even then. Super 88 Oliver diesel, 2 different type 530 Cases, 656 International Hydro, loved that one. 8600 Ford for plowing. Even had a small Versatile that was mostly used to pull a large wet manure spreader. Had Hesston mower and baler, and Field Queen chopper with corn and windrow heads.
Two men could do most of the farming, with exception of a added truck driver for silage since we used a dump cart behind the Queen instead of chopper wagons. Not much left of that place now. The family has passed away. Nothing remains there now but the land and memories of life 40 years ago.
Your 686 is a sharp looking tractor.
Necessity creates the best learning environment.
5,451 hours! Heck, that baby is just getting broken in! Our 686 hour meter quit working at 9,500 hours years ago, and I’m pretty sure it’s got over 12,000 hours on the D312 engine.
It’s definitely a little tired, and has some blow by, but it still does most of the work on our small farm. I’ve got a little fund going in a shoebox to have the engine rebuilt before too much longer, and then I anticipate many more years of good work out of it.
Simply outstanding tractors.
Oh, and since you guys were talking about those brake assemblies on different equipment, I can confirm a John Deere 4400 combine has the same basic setup with some added hydraulic components, but same friction disk assembly.
Great video guys!
Great video Gierok Farms
Pete at Just a Few Acres works on these red tractors. He has a ton of knowledge and resources. Great guy. He just went through his Super C.
My late Uncle Bill, Aunt Shirley and Cousin Dale have three McCormick Farmall Tractors. They used two of the Farmalls to pull and run a feed Grinder.
On our farm our 🚜s got used alot.Many many hours of hard hard work.We kept them up but many hours and hard work made them break. For sure parts are way out of site!! We never had time to do much work on tractors so had to take to our John Deere dealer.We had one the best around.If they fixed something it was done right and at a fair price.Having good dealers is priceless now days. Thanks 😊.
Yeppers fellas. The IH brake or clutch adjustment shackle.
The best advice I can give you is a saying from my old grandmother "Watch the pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves"
I love that you keep your equipment under cover .I hate it when I see a 100k baler sitting in the field where the last bale was made when the farm has multiple sheds around the farm empty all winter . and their equipment outside covered with mud dirt manure etc,etc and probably never had a grease gun on it since it was bought . One of my pet leaves !!
Had a super m back in the day, would get stuck in 5th gear and reverse if you were on a incline. Shift rails were worn bad, but the brakes always held.
686 was a good tractor The one you got is nice
Gotta be a "jack of all trades" mechanic on the farm.
I remember when I was in FFA our chapter had two tractors to work on sadly I didn't get to work on the two tractors much. We had one Ford Tractor and One Minneapolis Moline. They were both gas tractors. I got to help put the grease Zerks in one of them.
Expanding disk brakes are a love and hate system. Love them when they worked, hated them otherwise. You can probably put something behind the adjusting nut to take up more slack.
I have a 460 that had the same problem. They should’ve kept the heavy coil spring on that, like an M disk brake.
It's just become stupid how expensive some things have gotten and how poor the quality has become. It's a good thing you all are resourceful and skilled. I remember my grandpa always fixing and making things. It's an important part of farming. Thank you for sharing the video. Stay safe and God bless.
On the 7405, when you pull it apart, check the main housing, where the steel sealing rings go on the shaft they wear in to the housing and lets oil bypass, hopefully it’s just a o ring or teflon seal, if you would like to talk leave contact info in your comment, im just a farmer mechanic, but have done a couple of them, thanks for the videos, You guys do a great job
At least there in separate housing AC had the similar system but on the end of the final drives😢nice job. Had a 200 AC now it was in the same area as your 686 way simpler. Thanks Men !!
Hey the part that broke inside the brake housing. If you cut that part of flat. Drilled it out the same side bolt and Tap the hole threaded that part and put a bolt in with the thread you need and tack weld it then your outside adj. Will move like new. But you guys are good you will get it. Just think what you could do with a machine lathe. Just think of the thing that could be fixed and you would not have to be good with the lathe. Great videos
Awesome video good farmers want their equipment in top working condition safety first!
The MFWD clutch housing on your 7405 should be spring applied and hydraulically released. You will need a press to get the assembly all apart. Once you get it put back together, use something to put power to that solenoid on the back and used compressed air to act as your oil to test it and see if it releases.
Nice always a pleasure to watch
For fixing John Deeres I would recommend Farming, Fixing and Fabricating videos.
I think when John Deere came out with the 3010 and 4010 the brake system was very advanced over everything else on the market and from personal experience gave thousands of hours of service, but when they need service it's a big project and while you're there you might as well change all the axle bearings which get expensive. The two cylinder tractors, Farmalls and Oliver tractors were not a big deal to fix.
LMOA.
Something I've learned on the farm all disc brake system. Once you have everything cleaned and back together. Do not tighten your drum tight just run it up snug. Make your adjustments to you push the pedal out as far as it can go. Then tighten your drum your brakes should release and not stick
Where I live it's flat, I would of welded it. Where you live and breaking is highly important, I would of bought new. John T. Thank you for sharing.
your dad has the heart of a teacher.
I love the IH666 and 686 tractors. I want one of those tractors so bad.
Well those hours that tractor isn't even broken in yet lol
I love the old internationals on the farm where I worked we had a 966 that had over 9,000 hours on it and I still have my super in I'm still trying to figure out how to be buried on it. You guys do a wonderful job and I enjoy your videos very much it does my heart good to see a family that is working together in farming. And God bless your family ❤️
Thanks for the video. Get a puffer bottle of graphite powder and puff the powder under the rubber cover at the front of the brake housing several times a year. This works on Massey Ferguson and Fordson with the same style of brakes.Loows those balls to climb the ramps better.
Excellent advice Gerald
My 656 had the exact same thing happen. Cheapest I could find was 130 a piece. I found a part out in Nebraska and got a pair for 40 bucks
I believe those front wheel solienoids need power to kick it out of 4wd, if no power it would be in constant 4wd. Thanks for the videos.
Had to replace the brake disks on our 656...sooo the parts looked very similar. Bought 4 new shims to go along with extras that I had removed. Went to Stollers in Smithville, OH and got some extra salvage shims. Cleaned up the older corroded ones and put them between the better ones. One helpful item is putting Never Sieze on the threaded adjusters. Helps make future dissasembly easier.
That 686 in is very nice shape for 5000 hours
Lately when I am fixing some minor thing and I get aggravated I think of you guys and your methodical patience and the job goes better.
Calm assertive
Another great video! Thanks!
Thats a cool building your working in !!!
Cool Video..& Tractor..But 5,000 Hours on a Tractor Made When That One Was Is Just Now Getting Broke in Good...Buy a new one today an it is Wore slap out & redy for the scrap bin at 5,000 Hours ! Very Glad to see you all doing the same things we do here in Eastern Ky in the foot hills of the Appalachian Mountain's !
Daughter-in-law was watching over my shoulder, saw 2 brake pedals and was alarmed. She thinks there's already too many pedals. Not everyone knows. :) Good luck with the JD!
The case 4890 uses one bigger one right on the back of the transmission but same style and our Case 580 backhoe uses the same style.
Mark your calendar, dad is using the wirefeed welder. :)
Thank you for “dumbing” it down, mine brain was exploding trying to figure it all out
I've done a couple of those John Deere mechanical four-wheel-drive solenoids, and O-ring replacement. If your 7405 is like the other small frame 7000 tractors, there is a port that you can put in a gauge and actually check the oil pressure. If the oil is leaking by the O-ring, you will see it. Kind of gives you an opportunity to check it when you put it back together to before you really put everything back together. I usually put high quality grease on the O-rings, so when it slides together there's less of a chance of cutting them.
That’s a nice tractor. I have a 656 gas with a loader that does all the chores. It’s been a great dependable tractor. Thanks for another great video! God Bless
It's nice that when ya need to fix something on ya tractors ya can....
Nice work
It's good to know you can handle some of your maintenance need, sure will keep your operation profitable
Interesting stuff guys👍👍👍
I always like your repair videos right now I just started a restoration on a 1931 Farmall regular
Nice repair I think I would have replaced pads save time taking apart again. Have a great day.
Finding old airbrake trailer, and the clevis that goes, slack adjuster to the break-chamber ,should be half inch rod, and I believe a very similar clevis
You fixed those brakes exactly as I did on my 656. Weld er up at put it back in service. You should get in touch with Larsen lights and get your tractors lit up good to make chores after dark more enjoyable. While it’s not always ideal to work after dark it’s much more enjoyable with good lights!
This system is very similar to a case 580C backhoe brake system except the 580C also has brake shoes which is what expands the discs. Its a Bendix brake system. They work pretty good until the shaft seals leak which happened on my 580C which then required seal replacement and more. Good video.
Got six of them tractors running around the farm here and used to break alot of them. I started using never seize on that ball nut and down in that cavity where it kinda pivots. Very rare to break one since then. I think it was getting too dry and not able pull straight trying to bend thread rod slightly. Oil or grease in there probably work also.
Thanks for the video. Hope everything works out fine. I always enjoy watching repair work.
i love watching / old school buck ND
I have the same break set up on my 504 and 544. The 686 is a bigger and heavier tractor and you would think that the break set up would be bigger.
thank you
You need to get the center bolt out of a brake chamber on any semi trailer or truck as long as it is an air brake system
Great information THANKS
When braking independently with the right or left brake. Should they brake at the same distance down?
There ought to be a threaded yoke of some kind available that is the right length to get the job done,and as you said you could take the threads out of the ball end nut and then double nut it.
I did that same repair many times on a 300, 340, and my old M. That treaded rod could have been bigger. It would have saved a lot of extra work.
My John Deere 440 had the same type of brakes, and that was their weak link also.
Hi Guys. I love your channel so much. I’m a city girl and I learn a lot through your videos😊😊😊😊do you have merchandise for sale, i.e., sweatshirts, etc….. And have you considered having tours of your farm? That would be awesome to see👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
We used to go to Wisconsin tractor parts (now all states ag parts). The website says $115 for that brake adjustment rod but it might be cheaper for a used one. Their salvage yard was a few miles from where I lived but it's a good hike for you across the state
I know about brake adjustments! do you have a lathe? weld it up, turn it down! We were side hill farmers! Good job!! I operated an old JD B, with no brakes, until the wife found out!!
That looks similar to the brakes inside the transfer case on 200 series timberjack skidders.
On the ball part you can conclave some washers to get off the weld
Paul from N.E. Iowa, I am not a huge international fan, but that's a nice tractor. I believe it also might be kind of rare, you don't see many. Perfect for picking Corn. Enjoy your videos, Have a Great Day!!!
What part of N.E. Iowa are you located? I'm just north of Dubuque.
I have a Case 930CK with that type of brake, only it has 3 friction disks. They work great after you stop. The dealer told me they were next to useless even when they were new. I only have a small Ford bailer and even that will push me down a hill with me standing on the pedal. The price of parts have gotten insane.
Pull piece to adjust and activate disc brakes
Only thing I would've done differently is bevel the rod so you can grind weld to original diameter. That would allow your adjuster to thread on better. If your other brakes were fine splined discs they were probably Lambert aftermarket discs. Those are pricy to replace.
Thoughts on gas tractors? Like the bigger ones
Your shop needs a TIG welder added to the lineup! Someone welded about half the adjusting rods on my little JD950. It’s rough finding parts for as JD discontinued most replacements for the 850, 950 &1050…
Could you put a washer in first before the round nut, or did I not understand the issue?
A machinist taught me years go to file something round rock the file.
In My opinion the band brakes were better than the disc until they put hydraulic behind them. My 656 has pretty good brakes going forward, but backwards almost the same as none. The discs get glazed over and don.t work too good.
Old 686? I remember when these came out. The overall design was similar through 3 series '56, '66, '86. When the '88 series was introduced with a radical new design, I dreamed of getting one of the last '86 series with the beautiful 'old' style. Now, you are calling the '86 series 'old'? Guess that makes me, uh, ancient????
Solid 👊
You really have to be a “jack of all trades” on a farm huh.
My dad was really good at making things work. I think he could have made a functional carburetor out of an aluminum pop can.
My Dad was like that also 😎
Next time your in the brakes put a grease film on the splined shaft so the brake disk slid when you release the brakes
I see you have a miller wire feed welder. What size is it and are you happy with it? Do you think it's the right size for your needs? I'm shopping around for one on my farm.
How deep did you sink the pipe on your vice stand ? 2 x 2 foot area ? Exc
On your brake, would it work to buy a threaded yoke along with a length of threaded rod, then tack weld the rod to the yoke to stop it from turning,I think you can buy yokes on Amazon for about $10
Interesting
I had one on my 504 that was totally rusted away. So I built new ones from scratch.
How do you like the 504 ?? mine is a diesel row crop,,,kinda hard to start cold or not ,,,,,
The 504 is okay but the gearing could be better too slow in most gears which is good some times.@@bustersmith5569
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Do you come across many narrow 686’s for sale out your way? Have had an eye out here in southern Ontario but haven’t come across any atall
You’ve got a beauty there, awfully envious
cool
George you need to pull some shims, worked on a 656 that wasn't alot of fun, but I had to get shims form cih that wasn't cheap but I got it fixed for the guy. You guys deal with Downing? They are pretty good with IH stuff 👌
Red Power!
One thing I like about our JD two-cylinder tractors vs the neighbors Farmall's, was the brakes were separated by the operators platform. This meant it was not necessary to operate both brakes with one foot.
The rod more than likely broke is because the adjusting ball was seized in the breakpedal arm
Where you farm at in trempealeau county? We’re in southern trempealeau county
I put a comment on here about looking for parts for your older tractors from Steiner tractor, and it's gone. Google sucks!!
You will comply and not speak out of line or Google will punish you haha... sad but true
I got to tell you it was a shock to see dad without a hat on. I mean to see his head as bald as it is. Now I think a bald head is very sexy.
And here I thought I was the only guy that was bald like him.
The main tractor company's still have the old parts, but they price them out of reach so you will look at (Newer) equipment and tractors so they can sell you newer stuff! The (Young) Mechanics in the Dealerships don't have a clue about the older tractor and equipment, they've been trained on computers for the new stuff. I believe they don't even know about the repair manuals on the old stuff.