Just a thought that may help when working with rubber O-rings. Rubber does not compress. Rubber will flow. So you need to leave enough room in your O-ring groove that when you squeeze the rubber it has some place to go.
Yes, I’m aware, but thanks for the tip. The tools I ground are a touch wider than the o-ring cross section. To be honest I got a little narrower than I wanted to on the one I ground in the video but the tool is nearly square so the o-ring can squish into the corners a bit and flow out into the file chamfer if necessary. Anyways since filming I’ve tested the fit and all is well.
@@RussellMakes so how did you come up with the cut size and O-Ring size. This is something that always gives me issues when engineering a part or tool I tent to cut many times and sand/file the fire out of them to get them 'to work'.
@@fryreartechnology7611 When I made the first 15 and 20mm collars I cut a groove, put in an o-ring, and slid the collar over the rod to feel the resistance. It was too much resistance at first so I cut a deeper groove until I was happy with the feel. In this video you see me do the one on the rod. I just eyeballed the fit since I didn't have a 12mm thru axle hub to test with but I tested it later and it worked out. For my use I'm not trying to make a perfect seal that holds XXpsi, I just want some resistance so everything doesn't slide apart, but not so much resistance that it's hard to put together. Also as Dennis commented, the o-ring needs a place to squish into, so the grooves I cut are slightly wider than the o-ring cross section. This way they can squish and expand sideways.
It’s so the 15mm and 20mm collars engage with the bearings in the hub, not just the endcaps. I could make one stepped collar that’s twice as long, but when truing a 15mm wheel, the amount of collar sticking out past the hub would be a little unwieldy in my opinion.
Thanks for the reply, I guess you have been asked the same question many times before. Could a simple sleeve be used over the 15mm bush to bring up the diameter to 20. A standard 15x20 oilite bush for example. Or maybe used over a standard 12x15 headed oilite for the smaller bushing.@@RussellMakes
Sure, but such a sleeve wouldn’t have an o-ring groove inside. The o-rings nicely keep the assembly together when the tool is in use/installed in a hub. Perhaps I could add a groove and an o-ring but in that case the advantage of using an off-the-shelf part is dwindling since it needs modification. The way I’m doing it now allows me to engrave 15mm and 20mm on the appropriate collars and anodize them different colors which makes the tool more attractive, durable, and easy to understand for the user.
I lol'ed at how relatable "I'm gonna roll the dice and do the whole batch" is, sometimes you have all that momentum and you just gotta say "ship it".
Just a thought that may help when working with rubber O-rings. Rubber does not compress. Rubber will flow. So you need to leave enough room in your O-ring groove that when you squeeze the rubber it has some place to go.
Yes, I’m aware, but thanks for the tip. The tools I ground are a touch wider than the o-ring cross section. To be honest I got a little narrower than I wanted to on the one I ground in the video but the tool is nearly square so the o-ring can squish into the corners a bit and flow out into the file chamfer if necessary.
Anyways since filming I’ve tested the fit and all is well.
Nice intro and that's a great tool!
Thanks!
@@RussellMakes so how did you come up with the cut size and O-Ring size. This is something that always gives me issues when engineering a part or tool I tent to cut many times and sand/file the fire out of them to get them 'to work'.
@@fryreartechnology7611 When I made the first 15 and 20mm collars I cut a groove, put in an o-ring, and slid the collar over the rod to feel the resistance. It was too much resistance at first so I cut a deeper groove until I was happy with the feel. In this video you see me do the one on the rod. I just eyeballed the fit since I didn't have a 12mm thru axle hub to test with but I tested it later and it worked out. For my use I'm not trying to make a perfect seal that holds XXpsi, I just want some resistance so everything doesn't slide apart, but not so much resistance that it's hard to put together. Also as Dennis commented, the o-ring needs a place to squish into, so the grooves I cut are slightly wider than the o-ring cross section. This way they can squish and expand sideways.
Is there any reason why the 20mm bush can't have a small 15mm step for both sizes?
It’s so the 15mm and 20mm collars engage with the bearings in the hub, not just the endcaps.
I could make one stepped collar that’s twice as long, but when truing a 15mm wheel, the amount of collar sticking out past the hub would be a little unwieldy in my opinion.
Thanks for the reply, I guess you have been asked the same question many times before.
Could a simple sleeve be used over the 15mm bush to bring up the diameter to 20. A standard 15x20 oilite bush for example. Or maybe used over a standard 12x15 headed oilite for the smaller bushing.@@RussellMakes
Sure, but such a sleeve wouldn’t have an o-ring groove inside. The o-rings nicely keep the assembly together when the tool is in use/installed in a hub. Perhaps I could add a groove and an o-ring but in that case the advantage of using an off-the-shelf part is dwindling since it needs modification.
The way I’m doing it now allows me to engrave 15mm and 20mm on the appropriate collars and anodize them different colors which makes the tool more attractive, durable, and easy to understand for the user.
I want to go from 15mm to 20mm thru axle I have a 15x100 front hub is there a way to adapt the hub to fit 20mm thru axle?
You’ll have to ask the hub manufacturer.