Use stainless steel internal cam skewers. Campy, Shimano, and Bontrager make good ones. They're heavy, and not very aero, but your wheel will stay on and they can take abuse. I've seen skewers fail because some bike shop dude cranked on Ti skewers. Steel won't fail if you over tighten them. How many of you out there own an aero jersey or even a speed suit? Aero helmet? That's where to get major watts, not with stuff that ends you up in the ER. Marginal gains include hospital visits. Campy, Shimano, and Bontrager use strong skewers because they don't want to be sued. If I had a watt for every watt someone promised me in aero, I wouldn't need to pedal.
As a MTB rider and commuter, aero is not on my mind, but the safety aspect you mention is crucial for me. And I do worry about several of the security skewers, from what I have read, sometimes their keys do not allow enough clamping or in the case of the Abus you seemingly can easily apply too much.
just in case you need to quickly change the wheels, you can rely on our 55€ skewers with ultra low friction coating form ceramic speed. save up to 0.2 sec when changing a wheel!
What about the carbon fiber weave over ceramic coated titanium shaft skewers? The end caps are made of adamantium, the springs are made of vibranium, and the levers are made of Nepalese yak’s nose hair woven into a perfect aerodynamic shape! They only cost me $1500 because they’re 3 grams lighter than the closest competitor and they’re 20% stronger! Worth every Ben Franklin!
@@someguy9520 What about the carbon fiber weave over ceramic coated titanium shaft skewers? The end caps are made of adamantium, the springs are made of vibranium, and the levers are made of Nepalese yak’s nose hair woven into a perfect aerodynamic shape! They only cost me $1500 because they’re 3 grams lighter than the closest competitor and they’re 20% stronger! Worth every Ben Franklin!
Recently I saw a video where a dude compared some Extralite skewers against Dura Ace ones. He pushed down the wheel while inclined to simulate the lateral forces that happens while taking a turn; and the result was that the after market skewers didn't hold the wheel as well as Shimano did. I think that is worthy of mention too, although, for 10 or 20 bucks, anyone can try some of them without breaking a bank.
That was on Darklinstall's channel. Great example, how for saving maybe 1 watt (really are you cycling at average 40 kmph?!) or couple of grams people are willing to spend extra money for extralight stuff, that doesn't work properly. Not even mentioning durability. People can save more just by putting their handelbars 3mm lower.
Just watched it; very interesting video (th-cam.com/video/aoQq7Wb3EP8/w-d-xo.html). The problem is, we need to know the clamping force was the same (and very firm) in order to interpret the results.
Truth. My brother has lost his front wheel while riding resulting in a concussion. We suspect his lightweight external cam skewer in combination with a very rough road was to blame. We've also had a Salsa skewer on a hardtail loosen over the course of a ride which nearly caused another front wheel issue. I have torqued a rear external cam skewer sideways on a hard acceleration from a stop on a road bike. Neither of us are flyweights who cannot tighten a skewer. We've both got many tens of thousands of miles under our belts. I've /never/ had an issue with a Shimano skewer. My life is worth too much to trust it to a cheap external cam skewer. My garage houses 15 bikes, and they all sport Shimano skewers.
Er. No. The modulus of elasticity of the skewer 'axle' is all that matters, assuming they're the same diameter. Titanium has lower modulus than steel so will stretch more for a particular applied force, i.e. the wheel will flex more.
@@starvin-marvin-the-martian I have titanium skewers, but they’re made by Mavic with steel levers and they work great! They’re a little lighter but they’re still very strong. If you ever do go titanium, they’re a good choice. I may buy some security skewers for riding around Oakland though.
I think you missed a consideration, often low cost or lightweight skewers don't deliver enough clamping force to hold the wheel tightly. This can lead to tyre or brake rub under power in a sprint or hill effort.
True - but clamping force is also related to the cam design of the skewer. Traditional ones can deliver far higher clamping force by design. Something which is particularly important if you have chromed dropouts which have particularly hard surfaces.
I agree with Daniel & James. Most vintage steel bikes that have been upgraded with modern 11 spd. cassette/hubs need super strong skewers. The new Dura Ace skewers are great vs., finding an older, used, strong skewer.
Should I be worried about using crappy soft low modulus titanium for my skewers? When I upgraded my skewers I went for Enve steel ones, as they were the lightest steel skewers, about 70g, so giving away 30g to titanium versions. I want a decent clamping force without worrying about stretching the shaft.
hi +107074011576225662681 The clamping force in a skewer is relatively low (in terms of newtons) and this will not trouble the titanium shaft....thus the problem (if any) is not in the shaft it is in the clamp mechanism. This is inherent in *some* of the external cam mechanisms of modern skewers due to soft metal (eg aluminium) in the serrated edges or more likely an inferior (eg hard plastic) curved plastic washer. Most commonly this plastic washer gets worn down very easily and after this the skewer generates low clamping force. The rider doesn't realize the result is usually rear tyre rub on the inner chainstay. If you have this regularly after a ride time to change your skewer. All that said, many manufacturers now recognize these problems and avoid plastic washers.....eg that Vcycle skewer in the vid (tune clone) has a metal washer.
What about FrankenSkewers. What do I mean? I mean over the years I have many skewers but none did exactly what I wanted then with them all sitting in front of me I starting mixing and matching parts. I ended up with Ti axle, Ti springs, aluminum grip washers, and carbon fiber caps. It took 5 different skewers to make them up. And they are stupid light and not easy to get off.
I agree with Daniel below. Most vintage steel bikes that have been upgraded with modern 11 spd. cassette/hubs need super strong skewers. The new Dura Ace skewers are great vs., finding an older, used, strong skewer.
I wouldn't recommend checp titanuim skewers. Titanium stretches and your wheels will wobble from left to right when goin uphill. The more you put force into the pedala. The more it flexes. You'll end up scratches on your inner chainstays.
I have been using bolt on skewers of over 10 years ( first thing I change on every bike ) Not looking for any aero gain but never liked the look of the lever and the inconsistency of the clamping force. When tightening a bolt I can get the same clamping force every time..
what do you think about light (less than 60g?) QR/skewers (for Specialized SL6 rim brakes). From testes, looks like light (external cam most of the time) skewers have 30-40% less clamping force, does it affect handling/frame stiffness ?
Interesting video, but ... I have been riding for years on the skewers that came with my aero trainer, but I just got new Fulcrum wheels, which came with skewers. If the wheel manufacturer cares enough to provide skewers, I guess they are somehow "matched" to the wheel, so wouldn't I be taking some risk to use different skewers?
I am looking at Halo for my TT bike. It looks like they would scratch up your fork and rear dropout when doing up. Do you use a washer to prevent this? Thanks
I'm trying to look into a boost QR skewer that may offer similar or at least best effort strength to a thru-axle. If it will allow me to have less worries while on my hard tail.
I use allen key skewers on my track bike front wheel. It allows me to use my road wheels on my track bike. I might look into more aero versions like you suggest. THANKS
StacZero Trainer comes with this massive skewer you showed at beginning of the video. And I guess you forgot to mention the stability/stiffness factor of this Skyline Tune Skewers, I´m not used them by myself, but heard a lot about loss of stiffness (perhaps sprinter opinion). And now - who wants ENVE Titanium Skewers?===))))
Except that you can’t change them out for lever skewers when you do need them; like in a race where you need to change your tube quickly or otherwise work on your bike. It’s still good to have the option. And solid axles are heavy and people can remove them with a small crescent wrench.
Got a 3min19sec road bolt on skewer set for like 9€. They are installed with a 5mm allen key. The 5mm slot is stainless steel, so no soft aluminium is gonna round off. The weigh 85g for the pair, so decent, nothing to write home about. But the ends are very smooth and seem to integrate well with my fork dropouts(Specialized Shiv)
I have trouble finding not rusting skewers for my gravel grinder. Got a road wheelset for it, but it's hard to find a long enough rear skewer to fit the wider "rear end" with reinforced dropouts. Have to swap the original when switching the wheelsets. Please let us, adventure cyclists, know what brands have **really** long rear skewers and are worth to consider.
Do the lever-less skewers scratch and damage your fork and rear dropout when doing up by spinning and grinding on their surfaces? It doesn't look like they have washers built in to prevent this :(
@@Fastfitnesstips Thanks! Hey Alex, at min 5'34 in the video you reference one of your spreadsheets "Top 32 Most Marginal Gains Calculator". I can't seem to find it on Patreon... Does it still exist?! Cheers
@@VicCampbell1 this is a really old one, its been updated a few times since then but here is the original: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZKXGJgziIiS79Q0P_HNwMOQevSu2lhch9M0fUa54lrY/edit#gid=1392735316
I heard Ws can be found in farmers’ fields; but only at midnight on a full moon. You gotta use a flashlight to catch them; kinda like catching earthworms. Gotta be quick though! Ws are elusive!
Are there skewer compatability issues we need to be aware of? I am wondering if Shimano Dura Ace 9100 skewers would fit a DT Swiss 240 road hub (front and rear)
All QR skewers should have 9mm shafts. The only variation is the length: old 126mm (rare now), 130mm (road and occasionally mtb), 135mm (mtb and occasionally road). Fronts are all 100mm. The newer, longer Boost width hubs all use through axles instead of skewers and they’re all longer than those axles mentioned above, front and rear. Yours should work as long as they’re both 130mm hubs (or both 135mm, which is extremely unlikely).
I own a mountain bike and I have the pinhead skewers. The special key is a bit annoying to use but besides that, I like them. I just bought them to protect the wheels.
unogazzy84 my road bike came with pinheads, I lost the key however and I had to fix a flat. So I used my gator grip socket to remove the skewer... worked like a charm. I now question the “protection” they provide.
@@23Khameo My fork has recesses for a quick release skewer. It so happens that the pinhead skewers fit perfectly in those recesses. I wouldn't be able to use any sort of plier to get them off.
hi we already did it in the ceremicspeed video and we even made a calculator of the differences goo.gl/RYxnwq (built into a calculation of rear pulley losses)
Old school steel skewers have a GREAT advantage when you clamp them down. The cams are much more eccentric and the skewers tighten MORE when you clamp them. This makes them much easier to use, with less clamping force. Newer skewers are made to be light, they are not made to WORK, and are somewhat dangerous, because you have to be far more precise in setting the tightness BEFORE you clamp them down, because there they move so little from open to close.
Wouldn’t those wider hubs use through axles? P.S., if they are QR skewer, a standard 135mm rear skewer would work in the front. But for the rear, you might have to contact the hub manufacturer.
Most of these things (like Tune Skyline) are easily opened with vise-grips clamped down to spin the nut. Be warned. Unless the head is low-profile and domed or unless it's a collar that spins freely around an internal circular nut, driven by an allen or torx (security) wrench from the outside, it's trivial to defeat.
the tune skyline are aluminum, so they must be very fragile I'm afraid that the clamping force is insufficient for some wheels ... What do you think about ? :)
Thanks :) I have choosen the Zipp Titanium Quick Release Set, very light (55 gr), very strong force, but not really aero like you said. I was interested by the pinhead set you have shown in this video but they are heavy... :/ PS : I love your videos, must go on !!
Skewers? Marginal gains? Take a look at this video from the 1974 Giro, Ole Ritter's time trial at 32:47 is the most electric part of this legendary film 'Stars and water carriers' by Jordan Leth. He rode the TT stage of 37km in 46m 46sec, that's 29.8 mph. No aero, no carbon, no speed suit, not even any titanium except possibly the pedal spindles (Campag Super Record pedals introduced titanium spindles from 1972) and also pre EPO btw. But Ole's bike definitely had the CRAPPY HEAVY AND OLD STEEL SKEWERS Fastfitnesstips think are only good enough for the turbo trainer. And if any of you can ride 37k at that speed regardless of skewers, get in touch and I'll personally pay for your pro team license for next season and that's a promise! th-cam.com/video/vQ0pUiTXV40/w-d-xo.html
Martin Casson now you might have put up the question how fast he would have been, had he had modern equipment. But you didn't. And you might have asked, given his equipment, how many other riders would do that time today. But you didn't. And one might suspect you didn't because you either didn't think it through or because these questions would make your point look a bit.. eeh.. simple minded.
First, is the clamping safe in terms of securing wheels? Many skewers either use questionable materials, or odd, ineffective leverages to effect the clamping force which is really about holding the axle into the dropout proper, not about directly bearing the forces the axle must deal with. Most of these 'security/aero' variants use exotic end caps but simple leverage of a wrench to tighten, whereas the most reliable QRs actually impart considerable clamping force via the internals. Many of these look theft-resistant, but unless domed or rounded, could be easily grabbed by good old visegrips tight enough to unscrew. Shimano and some Campy work exceedingly well at securing wheels; locks are for securing bicycles. If worried about theft, ride the ugliest, heaviest, oldest bike that will get you to and from work or errands. If you get paid to ride bikes fast, make your sponsor pay for aero/weight saving components; otherwise, I guarantee every amateur has been passed by another on a heavier, less aero machine. Too much fixation on all of this is like fantasy football - a waste of time better spent on the bike.
That's all I need. Let me worry about having my special key to undo my front/rear wheel. I could see these on a commuter only, but on a bike I constantly ride, race, and transport? No thank you.
I'm still using old school skewers on both my bikes and never encountered any problems. I know I could shave some grams from my bike if I went aluminum or titanium, but I think I'll stick with these trusty ones.
“Airskewers!” For the discriminating rider who wants to save grams! Disclaimer: Airskewers Inc. is not responsible for any accident or injury that may result from the use of this product. Only for use by expert riders who can manual for miles and who have personal health insurance. Use at your own risk!
What SFB Put together that aero list? They left off Clothing (up to ~15W) as #1, and Aero Helmet? I can make up one Watt by Eating the right breakfast or taking a sh!t before the ride! Pay for good (yes heavy) stainless skewers like Dura Ace, if they come off you're going to spend $2500 for new teeth and 3 months off the bike in recovery, assuming you do. And you can get more Watts with good tires! Ti skewers are light, but you don't know the alloy in most cases and Ti can crack, the aluminum ends can fail, and its hard to get the right tension without over-tightening and damaging them. Most are made god-knows-where and god-knows-how and god-knows from what. Its one reason people pay big bucks for skewers. Also, watch for rider weight limits when you get to stuff like Tune. It's wayyyy light andf may also be counterfeit.
Don't waste your money, marginal gains is just Team Sky bullshit to cover up doping. Just concentrate on your own engine and your psychological approach. These are all free. None of this matters, this is 25 years of experience talking. Dura Ace is a pro groupset, you do not need it, learn to set up and adjust and maintain your bike properly. 105 all the way, wear it out and not worry about the high end trick. FUN is all its about.
I know it doesn't make me faster, but I like my Bling! I think I'll pass on the Ti skewers though. I am pretty happy with the looks of my Dura-Ace skewers.
+james butler You take a common but flawed argument stance. Nobody is saying change your skewers and you don't have to work/train as hard. The point in many of FastFitness videos is to show relative but often "stackable" gains. Yes, do all that you said AND on top of that gain another 10s over 40Km by spending $8. On the fun point, I have fun trying to "optimize" my bike, be it for performance, weight, friction, bling, or whatever my goal is on that month.
I like winning races and train as hard as I can to do so. If spending a bit of cash will make me even faster then I'm definitely going to go for it. Especially if it's only a tenner to do so! If you're a casual sunday rider then this kind of stuff is not so important but this channel is pretty much devoted to racing and getting as fast as possible so doubt that's the main audience.
great video, as mech eng i also wonder why dat hack all the pros are still using quick release....such useless thing since they usually just change the whole bike instead of wheels anyway and such a burden in terms of weight and aero. For normal people, if i dont have a tool to change my wheel, most likely i dont have a spare tube or pump with me at that time either.
"Skewer technology has come a long way in the last 20 or 30 years". Ackchually, Campagnolo's original design in the 1930's is by far the most superior design, and no improvements have been made since except some weight savings by Shimano in the 1990's. All these boutique CNC/Cabon/Titanium skewers are as effective as dried spaghetti, and the clamping forces they provide are never suitable for safe fastening of any wheel into any frame. Don't try and save weight in your quick release skewers, you're just asking for trouble, especially with the rise of disc brakes among all bikes. If you want aerodynamics, ride a recumbent.
What's the skewer even used for because the hub of the wheel w/ it's spokes are the wheel's strength. I think because their so damn skinny, what really are their purpose... every one I ever owned gets bent.. every stinkin one. So, if they're so needed, why not make them buffer so to not easily bend.
hi Shainexxxse Scrimshaw, as we are not currently marketing any skewers "marketing hype" seems unlikely. However if I might rephrase your comment, to "aero quick release: only a small effect" I am inclined to agree.
I'll take a stiffer 9mm/15mm Thru Axle over your skimpy 5mm skewers anytime, anyplace. This is the kind of talk that gives roadies a bad name... 0.5 watts? Really?
Hey guys please sign up to the FFT newsletter/list: bit.ly/fftnewsletter; and contribute to our bikefit dataset: bit.ly/bikefitdata
Use stainless steel internal cam skewers. Campy, Shimano, and Bontrager make good ones. They're heavy, and not very aero, but your wheel will stay on and they can take abuse. I've seen skewers fail because some bike shop dude cranked on Ti skewers. Steel won't fail if you over tighten them. How many of you out there own an aero jersey or even a speed suit? Aero helmet? That's where to get major watts, not with stuff that ends you up in the ER. Marginal gains include hospital visits. Campy, Shimano, and Bontrager use strong skewers because they don't want to be sued. If I had a watt for every watt someone promised me in aero, I wouldn't need to pedal.
If you're a man of class,take Tullio Campagnolo's invention and run with it.
Ultra light skewers tend to fail with time and you can't take chances when it's about you safety and life just because of 1 watt or grams savings.
As a MTB rider and commuter, aero is not on my mind, but the safety aspect you mention is crucial for me. And I do worry about several of the security skewers, from what I have read, sometimes their keys do not allow enough clamping or in the case of the Abus you seemingly can easily apply too much.
As a true weight weenie, id sacrifice safetey, break a leg, and get the bone replaced with titanium.
Thank god there are no ceramic skewers on the market.
just in case you need to quickly change the wheels, you can rely on our 55€ skewers with ultra low friction coating form ceramic speed. save up to 0.2 sec when changing a wheel!
What about the carbon fiber weave over ceramic coated titanium shaft skewers? The end caps are made of adamantium, the springs are made of vibranium, and the levers are made of Nepalese yak’s nose hair woven into a perfect aerodynamic shape! They only cost me $1500 because they’re 3 grams lighter than the closest competitor and they’re 20% stronger! Worth every Ben Franklin!
@@someguy9520
What about the carbon fiber weave over ceramic coated titanium shaft skewers? The end caps are made of adamantium, the springs are made of vibranium, and the levers are made of Nepalese yak’s nose hair woven into a perfect aerodynamic shape! They only cost me $1500 because they’re 3 grams lighter than the closest competitor and they’re 20% stronger! Worth every Ben Franklin!
Recently I saw a video where a dude compared some Extralite skewers against Dura Ace ones. He pushed down the wheel while inclined to simulate the lateral forces that happens while taking a turn; and the result was that the after market skewers didn't hold the wheel as well as Shimano did. I think that is worthy of mention too, although, for 10 or 20 bucks, anyone can try some of them without breaking a bank.
That was on Darklinstall's channel. Great example, how for saving maybe 1 watt (really are you cycling at average 40 kmph?!) or couple of grams people are willing to spend extra money for extralight stuff, that doesn't work properly. Not even mentioning durability. People can save more just by putting their handelbars 3mm lower.
Just watched it; very interesting video (th-cam.com/video/aoQq7Wb3EP8/w-d-xo.html). The problem is, we need to know the clamping force was the same (and very firm) in order to interpret the results.
Truth. My brother has lost his front wheel while riding resulting in a concussion. We suspect his lightweight external cam skewer in combination with a very rough road was to blame. We've also had a Salsa skewer on a hardtail loosen over the course of a ride which nearly caused another front wheel issue. I have torqued a rear external cam skewer sideways on a hard acceleration from a stop on a road bike.
Neither of us are flyweights who cannot tighten a skewer. We've both got many tens of thousands of miles under our belts. I've /never/ had an issue with a Shimano skewer.
My life is worth too much to trust it to a cheap external cam skewer. My garage houses 15 bikes, and they all sport Shimano skewers.
Er. No. The modulus of elasticity of the skewer 'axle' is all that matters, assuming they're the same diameter. Titanium has lower modulus than steel so will stretch more for a particular applied force, i.e. the wheel will flex more.
@@starvin-marvin-the-martian
I have titanium skewers, but they’re made by Mavic with steel levers and they work great! They’re a little lighter but they’re still very strong. If you ever do go titanium, they’re a good choice. I may buy some security skewers for riding around Oakland though.
I think you missed a consideration, often low cost or lightweight skewers don't deliver enough clamping force to hold the wheel tightly. This can lead to tyre or brake rub under power in a sprint or hill effort.
True - but clamping force is also related to the cam design of the skewer. Traditional ones can deliver far higher clamping force by design. Something which is particularly important if you have chromed dropouts which have particularly hard surfaces.
I agree with Daniel & James. Most vintage steel bikes that have been upgraded with modern 11 spd. cassette/hubs need super strong skewers. The new Dura Ace skewers are great vs., finding an older, used, strong skewer.
Absolutely true.
@@superstrada6847
My Mavic Ti skewers have worked great for years; they’re lighter than steel but still very strong.
Thumbs up for opening with the ob-skewer pun
What a great video Very interesting and entertaining. Thank you for making it and put it in the in the effort.
7:14 & 8:03-Vise-Grips defeat most.
8:45-A system that is not defeated by vise-grips.
Please please please minimize the sound effects!
Stefanos infinityphoto WHAT??? I CANT HEAR YOUR MY EARS ARE BLEEDING
Yeah, that “emphasis” sound was REALLY annoying!
Should I be worried about using crappy soft low modulus titanium for my skewers? When I upgraded my skewers I went for Enve steel ones, as they were the lightest steel skewers, about 70g, so giving away 30g to titanium versions. I want a decent clamping force without worrying about stretching the shaft.
hi +107074011576225662681 The clamping force in a skewer is relatively low (in terms of newtons) and this will not trouble the titanium shaft....thus the problem (if any) is not in the shaft it is in the clamp mechanism. This is inherent in *some* of the external cam mechanisms of modern skewers due to soft metal (eg aluminium) in the serrated edges or more likely an inferior (eg hard plastic) curved plastic washer. Most commonly this plastic washer gets worn down very easily and after this the skewer generates low clamping force. The rider doesn't realize the result is usually rear tyre rub on the inner chainstay. If you have this regularly after a ride time to change your skewer. All that said, many manufacturers now recognize these problems and avoid plastic washers.....eg that Vcycle skewer in the vid (tune clone) has a metal washer.
What about FrankenSkewers. What do I mean? I mean over the years I have many skewers but none did exactly what I wanted then with them all sitting in front of me I starting mixing and matching parts. I ended up with Ti axle, Ti springs, aluminum grip washers, and carbon fiber caps. It took 5 different skewers to make them up. And they are stupid light and not easy to get off.
:D you really give me an idea to upgrades my bike! never thought about this before.
What is the weight of the keys that you have to carry along too?
I agree with Daniel below. Most vintage steel bikes that have been upgraded with modern 11 spd. cassette/hubs need super strong skewers. The new Dura Ace skewers are great vs., finding an older, used, strong skewer.
I wouldn't recommend checp titanuim skewers. Titanium stretches and your wheels will wobble from left to right when goin uphill. The more you put force into the pedala. The more it flexes. You'll end up scratches on your inner chainstays.
I have been using bolt on skewers of over 10 years ( first thing I change on every bike ) Not looking for any aero gain but never liked the look of the lever and the inconsistency of the clamping force. When tightening a bolt I can get the same clamping force every time..
I use KCNC. But the tune spline skewers are very nice!
what do you think about light (less than 60g?) QR/skewers (for Specialized SL6 rim brakes). From testes, looks like light (external cam most of the time) skewers have 30-40% less clamping force, does it affect handling/frame stiffness ?
Interesting video, but ... I have been riding for years on the skewers that came with my aero trainer, but I just got new Fulcrum wheels, which came with skewers.
If the wheel manufacturer cares enough to provide skewers, I guess they are somehow "matched" to the wheel, so wouldn't I be taking some risk to use different skewers?
David Robinson no
Have been using the halo's for 3years now on my tt bike👍
I am looking at Halo for my TT bike. It looks like they would scratch up your fork and rear dropout when doing up. Do you use a washer to prevent this?
Thanks
do you have a similar video about thru axles?
I tried a pair of Halos based on your recommend and they look aero, work great and are bling! Thanks. Worked on my 110/135 e-bike.
awesome!
I'm trying to look into a boost QR skewer that may offer similar or at least best effort strength to a thru-axle. If it will allow me to have less worries while on my hard tail.
I use allen key skewers on my track bike front wheel. It allows me to use my road wheels on my track bike. I might look into more aero versions like you suggest. THANKS
That's what I use. They hold better than the QR and make it harder too steal the wheel.
StacZero Trainer comes with this massive skewer you showed at beginning of the video. And I guess you forgot to mention the stability/stiffness factor of this Skyline Tune Skewers, I´m not used them by myself, but heard a lot about loss of stiffness (perhaps sprinter opinion).
And now - who wants ENVE Titanium Skewers?===))))
Or convert the hubs to threaded solid axils. As soon as you ask me to use a tool to remove the wheel there is no advantage over solid axils.
Except that you can’t change them out for lever skewers when you do need them; like in a race where you need to change your tube quickly or otherwise work on your bike. It’s still good to have the option. And solid axles are heavy and people can remove them with a small crescent wrench.
Got a 3min19sec road bolt on skewer set for like 9€. They are installed with a 5mm allen key. The 5mm slot is stainless steel, so no soft aluminium is gonna round off. The weigh 85g for the pair, so decent, nothing to write home about.
But the ends are very smooth and seem to integrate well with my fork dropouts(Specialized Shiv)
aero be damned I wear a bat cape while riding.
I have some Spin Stix. Best ones ever made. Wish they still made em!
I have trouble finding not rusting skewers for my gravel grinder. Got a road wheelset for it, but it's hard to find a long enough rear skewer to fit the wider "rear end" with reinforced dropouts. Have to swap the original when switching the wheelsets. Please let us, adventure cyclists, know what brands have **really** long rear skewers and are worth to consider.
Hello, i have 100kg will shese light weight skewers be ok for my weight? Or i have to use some that are heavier?
Do the lever-less skewers scratch and damage your fork and rear dropout when doing up by spinning and grinding on their surfaces? It doesn't look like they have washers built in to prevent this :(
you bought the bike to ride it, not look at it
They do have an inner washer type part that the bolt shaft turns against.
Thanks for the effort man
Great video! You've convinced me to get aero skewers and save 1W! Now I just need to find 23W more to beat a mate in a local TT! 👍😁
23w would be same as a long sleeve skin suit ;)
@@Fastfitnesstips Thanks! Hey Alex, at min 5'34 in the video you reference one of your spreadsheets "Top 32 Most Marginal Gains Calculator". I can't seem to find it on Patreon... Does it still exist?! Cheers
@@VicCampbell1 this is a really old one, its been updated a few times since then but here is the original: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZKXGJgziIiS79Q0P_HNwMOQevSu2lhch9M0fUa54lrY/edit#gid=1392735316
I heard Ws can be found in farmers’ fields; but only at midnight on a full moon. You gotta use a flashlight to catch them; kinda like catching earthworms. Gotta be quick though! Ws are elusive!
Are there skewer compatability issues we need to be aware of? I am wondering if Shimano Dura Ace 9100 skewers would fit a DT Swiss 240 road hub (front and rear)
All QR skewers should have 9mm shafts. The only variation is the length: old 126mm (rare now), 130mm (road and occasionally mtb), 135mm (mtb and occasionally road). Fronts are all 100mm. The newer, longer Boost width hubs all use through axles instead of skewers and they’re all longer than those axles mentioned above, front and rear. Yours should work as long as they’re both 130mm hubs (or both 135mm, which is extremely unlikely).
I own a mountain bike and I have the pinhead skewers. The special key is a bit annoying to use but besides that, I like them. I just bought them to protect the wheels.
unogazzy84 my road bike came with pinheads, I lost the key however and I had to fix a flat. So I used my gator grip socket to remove the skewer... worked like a charm. I now question the “protection” they provide.
@@23Khameo My fork has recesses for a quick release skewer. It so happens that the pinhead skewers fit perfectly in those recesses. I wouldn't be able to use any sort of plier to get them off.
Any chance you could review ceramic bearings to standard steel?
hi we already did it in the ceremicspeed video and we even made a calculator of the differences goo.gl/RYxnwq (built into a calculation of rear pulley losses)
Nice one will check it out ... keep up the great work 👍👍👍
Can't wait for the plasticspeed bearing video review. They are light and cheap! :-)
@@loopie007
I prefer bearings made of specially hardened air. Very low rolling resistance! Although they don’t actually roll very well. 😆
Old school steel skewers have a GREAT advantage when you clamp them down. The cams are much more eccentric and the skewers tighten MORE when you clamp them. This makes them much easier to use, with less clamping force. Newer skewers are made to be light, they are not made to WORK, and are somewhat dangerous, because you have to be far more precise in setting the tightness BEFORE you clamp them down, because there they move so little from open to close.
Anyone know of security skewers for fatbikes, in the 135mm front hub and 170mm rear hub flavour?
Wouldn’t those wider hubs use through axles?
P.S., if they are QR skewer, a standard 135mm rear skewer would work in the front. But for the rear, you might have to contact the hub manufacturer.
"back in the day?" 70s 80s? Bikes have been around a little longer! Great video.
My first bike was a penny farthing, you young whippersnappers!
Most of these things (like Tune Skyline) are easily opened with vise-grips clamped down to spin the nut. Be warned. Unless the head is low-profile and domed or unless it's a collar that spins freely around an internal circular nut, driven by an allen or torx (security) wrench from the outside, it's trivial to defeat.
Great and valuable info. Thanks
Are those ultra light weight skewers safe with disk brakes?
the tune skyline are aluminum, so they must be very fragile I'm afraid that the clamping force is insufficient for some wheels ... What do you think about ? :)
I agree if there is any safety risk for the sake of a few grams then it's not worth it esp if they are aluminium like you say
Thanks :) I have choosen the Zipp Titanium Quick Release Set, very light (55 gr), very strong force, but not really aero like you said. I was interested by the pinhead set you have shown in this video but they are heavy... :/ PS : I love your videos, must go on !!
Thanks! Great video!
Wheel always came lose or wobbled when I used QR skewers.
i love my Halo skewers. .. and yes they make for road bikes
Skewers? Marginal gains? Take a look at this video from the 1974 Giro, Ole Ritter's time trial at 32:47 is the most electric part of this legendary film 'Stars and water carriers' by Jordan Leth. He rode the TT stage of 37km in 46m 46sec, that's 29.8 mph. No aero, no carbon, no speed suit, not even any titanium except possibly the pedal spindles (Campag Super Record pedals introduced titanium spindles from 1972) and also pre EPO btw. But Ole's bike definitely had the CRAPPY HEAVY AND OLD STEEL SKEWERS Fastfitnesstips think are only good enough for the turbo trainer. And if any of you can ride 37k at that speed regardless of skewers, get in touch and I'll personally pay for your pro team license for next season and that's a promise!
th-cam.com/video/vQ0pUiTXV40/w-d-xo.html
Martin Casson now you might have put up the question how fast he would have been, had he had modern equipment. But you didn't.
And you might have asked, given his equipment, how many other riders would do that time today. But you didn't.
And one might suspect you didn't because you either didn't think it through or because these questions would make your point look a bit.. eeh.. simple minded.
BTW, Ole came in second in the time trial that day...have to agree tho, those were hard men back in 74. Beautiful bikes too
How about clix quick release
First, is the clamping safe in terms of securing wheels? Many skewers either use questionable materials, or odd, ineffective leverages to effect the clamping force which is really about holding the axle into the dropout proper, not about directly bearing the forces the axle must deal with. Most of these 'security/aero' variants use exotic end caps but simple leverage of a wrench to tighten, whereas the most reliable QRs actually impart considerable clamping force via the internals. Many of these look theft-resistant, but unless domed or rounded, could be easily grabbed by good old visegrips tight enough to unscrew. Shimano and some Campy work exceedingly well at securing wheels; locks are for securing bicycles. If worried about theft, ride the ugliest, heaviest, oldest bike that will get you to and from work or errands. If you get paid to ride bikes fast, make your sponsor pay for aero/weight saving components; otherwise, I guarantee every amateur has been passed by another on a heavier, less aero machine. Too much fixation on all of this is like fantasy football - a waste of time better spent on the bike.
That's all I need. Let me worry about having my special key to undo my front/rear wheel. I could see these on a commuter only, but on a bike I constantly ride, race, and transport? No thank you.
I feel you, I recently lost the key!
Novatec makes those allen key skewers and they are very cheap.
I'm still using old school skewers on both my bikes and never encountered any problems. I know I could shave some grams from my bike if I went aluminum or titanium, but I think I'll stick with these trusty ones.
Great as always, thank you!
simpletons, you only get max aero gains by removing the skewers all together
That's one part of the reason thru axles exist.
“Airskewers!” For the discriminating rider who wants to save grams!
Disclaimer: Airskewers Inc. is not responsible for any accident or injury that may result from the use of this product. Only for use by expert riders who can manual for miles and who have personal health insurance. Use at your own risk!
Wheels get stolen because people dont "attach" them. Clamp mechanism is there for a reason. The ones without are just not practical.
I haven't owned Excel for nearly 10 years :(
What SFB Put together that aero list? They left off Clothing (up to ~15W) as #1, and Aero Helmet? I can make up one Watt by Eating the right breakfast or taking a sh!t before the ride! Pay for good (yes heavy) stainless skewers like Dura Ace, if they come off you're going to spend $2500 for new teeth and 3 months off the bike in recovery, assuming you do. And you can get more Watts with good tires! Ti skewers are light, but you don't know the alloy in most cases and Ti can crack, the aluminum ends can fail, and its hard to get the right tension without over-tightening and damaging them. Most are made god-knows-where and god-knows-how and god-knows from what. Its one reason people pay big bucks for skewers. Also, watch for rider weight limits when you get to stuff like Tune. It's wayyyy light andf may also be counterfeit.
Don't road bikes use thru axles these days?
After the video CRC raised the price now about $$12.49 or £9.49 LOL
Dam them!
Don't waste your money, marginal gains is just Team Sky bullshit to cover up doping. Just concentrate on your own engine and your psychological approach. These are all free. None of this matters, this is 25 years of experience talking.
Dura Ace is a pro groupset, you do not need it, learn to set up and adjust and maintain your bike properly. 105 all the way, wear it out and not worry about the high end trick. FUN is all its about.
^^THIS is gospel.
I know it doesn't make me faster, but I like my Bling! I think I'll pass on the Ti skewers though. I am pretty happy with the looks of my Dura-Ace skewers.
james butler Over a few years you can save a load of money on food having the lightest bike possible!
+james butler You take a common but flawed argument stance. Nobody is saying change your skewers and you don't have to work/train as hard.
The point in many of FastFitness videos is to show relative but often "stackable" gains. Yes, do all that you said AND on top of that gain another 10s over 40Km by spending $8.
On the fun point, I have fun trying to "optimize" my bike, be it for performance, weight, friction, bling, or whatever my goal is on that month.
I like winning races and train as hard as I can to do so. If spending a bit of cash will make me even faster then I'm definitely going to go for it. Especially if it's only a tenner to do so!
If you're a casual sunday rider then this kind of stuff is not so important but this channel is pretty much devoted to racing and getting as fast as possible so doubt that's the main audience.
i literally bought them because i thought they were aero as well
I was going to watch this, but then I realized I don't have the money if you convince me to change something anyways.
we can change!
So where’s the secrets part ?
....that's a secret ;)
Thanks so much!
great video, as mech eng i also wonder why dat hack all the pros are still using quick release....such useless thing since they usually just change the whole bike instead of wheels anyway and such a burden in terms of weight and aero. For normal people, if i dont have a tool to change my wheel, most likely i dont have a spare tube or pump with me at that time either.
Why use skewers why not bolt through as we have on MTB better power transfer
True, if your frame has bolt thru design
GOT a NEW SALSA FLIP OFFS FOR FAT BIKE too long .need to shorten them
0:07-pun intended...
ob-skewer topic lol!
"Skewer technology has come a long way in the last 20 or 30 years".
Ackchually, Campagnolo's original design in the 1930's is by far the most superior design, and no improvements have been made since except some weight savings by Shimano in the 1990's. All these boutique CNC/Cabon/Titanium skewers are as effective as dried spaghetti, and the clamping forces they provide are never suitable for safe fastening of any wheel into any frame. Don't try and save weight in your quick release skewers, you're just asking for trouble, especially with the rise of disc brakes among all bikes.
If you want aerodynamics, ride a recumbent.
9000skewers!
What's the skewer even used for because the hub of the wheel w/ it's spokes are the wheel's strength. I think because their so damn skinny, what really are their purpose... every one I ever owned gets bent.. every stinkin one. So, if they're so needed, why not make them buffer so to not easily bend.
Aero quick release,I've heard it all now,typical marketing hype
hi Shainexxxse Scrimshaw, as we are not currently marketing any skewers "marketing hype" seems unlikely. However if I might rephrase your comment, to "aero quick release: only a small effect" I am inclined to agree.
I'll take a stiffer 9mm/15mm Thru Axle over your skimpy 5mm skewers anytime, anyplace. This is the kind of talk that gives roadies a bad name... 0.5 watts? Really?
I agree thru axle is better (and often more aero) but that requires changing your bike frame and forks.
An ob skewer topic
T.U.L.A. Spinstix!!! U10
55g
U are god.
trivial and useless stuff as always.
I wonder why you watch
"a fairly ob-skewer topic" hahaha...
Shame on you .Get a real job.
I'd love to know what on earth you are referring to?