I don't know if it's the same on these cans... But on most cans, once you are finished.. Hold it upside down and spray, and you'll see that paint comes out for like 2 seconds and then it turns into a clear air........... That means the nozzle and straw are now clean.
Instead of burlap, but for the same effect, drywall tape works really well cause you can actually tape off an area and still get the mesh look...Also, the orange net bags from the super market that oranges and clementines come in works well also.
I lay down a base coat/color. Then i spray multiple colors of rustoleum onto a paper plate, mix with a sponge and dab the paint on. Resembles a form of the "Atacs camo" . i go light shades on areas that dip in and dark on areas that bump out.
Not sure about the makeup of Aluma-Hyde per say, but clear coat is typically used for UV sunlight protection from breaking down the actual base coat and more or less physical protection from bumps, scrapes, gouges, etc.
Alumahide has talc for finish purposes, so alumahide needs mixed/shaken for long length of time. When you're thinking you shook it enough, do it again. When taking breaks, turn the can upside down, then spray until just air comes out. This will keep the nozzle clean.
Always flip the can and blow out the paint in the nozzle if you're going to store the can. Also a Bamboo disposable Chopstick with painters take wrapped around and shoved in the Barrel makes a decent handle for when your painting the Barrel
I think he should blow across the hole in the can nozzle like those old Hollywood cowboys would blow the smoke out of the barrel of their six shooter after they had deep six'd a bad guy.
Degrease and prep the crap out of whatever you're coating. I've used AH on probably a half dozen guns. The prep goes A LONG way. I've found that bundling the can up in a towel and tying it, then running it in the dryer for about 10 minutes will warm up the paint and it seems to apply better, plus it shakes it up for you.
Just coated some of the accessories on my ar in parkerized aluma-hyde and I love it! Turned out very handsome and he is 100% right, all the time is in the prep work
Back in my Bondo, spray paint days, with my cars, I learned the trick to turn the spray cans upside down. With the can inverted you can spray just gas to blow out the paint.
Years ago when I was still a whipper snapper and my body wasn't all worn out and busted down I got into camo painting my longbows and a Marlin model 60 rifle I used for squirrel hunting. Something that really worked well after a good job a prepping is to wrap the strand of fake Ivy around the weapon for it's entire length. Be sure to leave plenty of open spaces along the Ivy wrap so that paint will have enough room to get by the vine and leaves and onto the weapon. Sometimes you may find it beneficial to remove some of the leaves from the fake Ivy so that the coverage it makes on the weapon won't be so dense that paint can't reach the surface you wish to paint. I also reversed the direction of the way I wrapped the vine each time I changed paint colors. There are two ways to use the texture paints that I am going to describe shortly. Number one: go ahead and spray every color you intend to use except black. Then on areas that I wasn't going to be touching very often I sprayed texture paint. There are two types of texture paint that I know of. One has a texture that resembles very coarse sand or ittsy bittsy pebbles; the other sprays on shiny black then after it dries over-night it will be flat black and very wrinkled. It looks cool. Two things though, if I remember correctly, both only come in black, must be used on metal that is no cooler than 70° F, and it must dry for no less than 24 hours in a place that gets no lower than 70°F. Number two: use the type of texture paint or even use each in a different area but this time use texture paint on areas that you won't be touching often or ever and then use regular flat black as your base coat. Then just use the instructions I wrote in the other way to use texture paint. Two more things: A. It's a good idea to practice on a plank of metal or wood, anything but your rifle, before permanently committing upon your rifle. Remember, this is like getting a tattoo. Once you start it's permanent and there's no going back. B. It is far better to use many layers, each color done in a light mist rather that a wet, thick coat. It is also much better for paint adhesion if you allow each light misted coat to dry a full day before spraying the next coat. I know, I know, it will take a lifetime if you do it that way. So what! Get a hobby to occupy your time while the paint dries. Heck, grow a beard. That's a fun and exciting way to spend your free time. Always wear a painters mask and eye protection. My camo jobs were so like our woods here in Dixie that I could easily loose a bow or rifle if I leaned it against a tree and walked away from it some distance. Keep that in mind.
I just used Aluma Hyde 2 in matte black to redo a ithaca model 37 featherlight. It turned out great, way better than expected! Extensive prep, and a $14 harbor freight heat gun are your greatest allies.
My brother spray painted one of his AR-15s and it took him 2 days because of Cold weather so my dad suggested that he should use the hair dryer to help him dry it up. That really works.
Brownells sells a bag of 25 nozzles (black) for like 5.00. They also sell clean out nozzles (green) so it will keep the tube in the can free of any build up. (which cause that splotchy spatter) That AK looks good!
You know what would be really fun to see ? I was thinking about painting a rifle by shooting the sprays next to it. You can line them up for a crazy cool effect or shoot them one by one from different angles all around the gun !! Trust me it's gonna be a lot of fun ! You might want to be careful with your angles and caliber choice if you don't want shrapnel or bullet fragments hitting the firearm but that's basically the only thing you have to worry about
@@JW...-oj5iw if only .... On the 25th the government pulled our right to hunt 16 animals on the pest list because a hippie TV presenter wrote a posh letter to the government saying animals such as pigeons r being killed for no reason ! So now all I can legally hunt with my guns is rabbits and squirrel and brown rats and they just aren't as tasty as pigeons and doves 😫
@@bryanbiltoft8141 very true Iv just come back from a session on the targets but IV been hunting for close on 20 years it's a kick in the teeth that it's been pulled out from under me
@@stagz1358 You have got to stand up for yourself man. They aren't just taking your right to hunt, they're taking your freedom. They'll keep taking it in baby steps until you have nothing left unless you and your fellow countrymen do something about it.
I have a Khyber parts kit that I had built but not finished u just influenced me to go out to garden and paint this thing, I might add more greens though, I'm in Kentucky so the greens are green here lol
All Alumahide coats need applied within one half of an hour, or after its completely cured, which is one to two weeks, or 300-350 degrees for 3.5 hours.
I have a Polish Tantal and I think that handguard is badass........I would love to get me one of those! great paint job Eric! .....KEEP ON ROCKIN IT!............Iraqveteran8888..........................
Eric I enjoy your videos , so if you're going to use the aerosol can to spray things ? remember a can of starting fluid with the straw will blow out the airsoft tip so it does not clog up ,? 😎
The nozzles were clogging because you weren't tipping the can upside down and spraying the can 'til it stopped spraying paint. You have to clear the tip of paint when you're done using the can.
Bob Ross: "There is a happy little bunny right under this tree.." 😊 South Park Uncle Jimbo: "And he is coming right for us!" 😮 (massive shooting) South Park Ned: "mmm get er done!" 😂
the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hydrographic spray on hardener...dont over do it on the hardener just go back can's instructions and that hardens over time too even more which is the same hardeners they use when they hydro dip guns at a lot of the factories
Omg! This video is Awesome! Never thought about painting a gun, but good to know there is an alternative to my wife's nail polish. I cant convince her to get camo colors...😒
Go to your grocery store and buy by the gallon, canning vinegar, 9% instead of 6% acidity, take all the metal parts and place fully submerged in a tub, check every 12 hours, remove old vinegar and rusty water until clear. Also at each flush use a brass cleaning brush on the parts. Sometimes it takes 24-72 hours. Just check on to make sure after all of the rust is gone that it is not attacking the metal.... if you are not going to finish immediately then coat with mineral oil. Find plugs or other for barrel prior to starting. Sometimes earplugs will work.
Whenever I order Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II paint I always order an extra pack of nozzles too. Another thing when using Aluma-Hyde II is to use a pin that is used to inflate football/basketball/soccer balls to clean the nozzles out when they get plugged or when done using the can for a while.
don't follow this guy's advice is what i can tell people lol...if for some reason it starts clogging you put the can upside down spray until it comes out clear ,shake it a few seconds and you are good to go without buying any nozzles...never use anything like a needle or pin inside the nozzle it will mess it up more then help it, just wanted people to be informed not told something wrong
I might go this route instead of cerakote. I would love to get some m81 camo stencils and coat my cadex chassis. And the rifle came out so badass Chuck Norris would love it! Awesome job!
I like the low quality hobby lobby craft copper wire to suspend my projects. Works awesome and I can bend it to allow paint to get more places where string would cover.
Dont forget the part about where you need to either bake it or let it sit for a long time to fully cure. I just got a big cardboard box and shot in hot air from a blow dryer for several hours. You can use the oven but risk pissing off the wife. Temps were pretty high and the coating has held up.
I painted my LR-308 with Rust-oleum camo paint. I used (I don't remember what) solvent to clean the gun first. Anyways, I like how the paint turned out, and I also like how it's wearing after about 14 months, which is quite a bit on the major touch points. I like the worn look though, and that's kind of what I was looking for.
Due to the talk that gives matte paints the matte appearance, the pickup tube in the can may become clogged as well. We offer a clean-out nozzle to that will clear out the pickup tube in the can. Item number 084-179-004.
Aluma Hyde won’t effect the function of the rifle when assembled? Was thinking about using it on my AK but was worried I had to disassemble everything before coating!
Used it on my first AR build. Naturally I had it disassembled. Sprayed parts off with non-chlorine engine degreaser, painted, and baked it in an oven. Finish has held up perfectly minus the shell deflector, actually better than my Duracoat jobs. No problems with clearance/fitment issues. Worth it for an easy, durable paint job
If it's possible I would love to see a full review of the B&T Suppressed VP9 WELROD 9mm. They call it the “veterinary pistol” This is NOT a H&K VP9 it's a handgun made just for dispatching large animals.
You can get 3 guns out of one can. Its best to use the can all at once. If you try to store it chances are it will not spray again. Aftermarket spray tips some times work some times do not. After use store your left over cans upside down and you will need to replace the nozzle. For thick coats use a heat gun behind light coats over and over again seems to work best. Its says to use above a temp of 70 Deg. I will not spray till mid 80s. Oven cure at 190 to 220 for 3 hours and done. Avoid spraying small moving parts, " Bolt, Trigger, Front Trunnion, Springs. " Very thick and heavy duty coat. If you mess up the only thing that will take this stuff off is airplane paint stripper. Again I say do not spray critical moving parts.
I've always had really good results with just some krylon camo color paints. I paint all of my guns! I even have a bright caution orange AR which looks fucking ridiculous but people seem to love it every time I take it to the range!
I coulda used Chad’s extra pair of hands last night actually sprayed my ks47. I just did an urban gray camo pattern over the black. But my Grendel that I hunt with I did the full on camo and used a crab net to brake it up came out really nice I used it for about a year and wore the paint off in all the high spots then I sprayed it with the flat clear coat to keep that battle worn look. I couldn’t be happier. It’s funny though cuz the first time I painted it I hated it and thought I ruined my rifle lol. I stripped the paint off did it again still didn’t like it but didn’t Wana strip it again so I just painted it back black and did the final camo paint job over that. So for anyone hesitant on painting their rifle just go for it, it can always be undone.
You guys are so great with me 22s I need to see the bergara bxr 22 in action. This looks like it’s going to really hurt the volquartsens of the world .
thanks for doing this Eric, can you maybe do a basic level intro on all of the available finishing options and the time/difficulty/prep required? I want to do my AK as well but am somewhat lost in the various options. I think it would be cool to coat the friction areas (bolt carrier rails, trigger, etc) with some sort of high lubricity finish after giving them a good polish but not sure if something like that exists.
If you are based in California could you please tell me what I have to do with my Colt Government .45ACP Stainless Steel pistol now that the state of California bans their sale or possession?
@Grwmkegthr LAstname LMAO.....NAH MAN, your not living right if you have not had the clap at least once. You gotta get out and enjoy what this world has to offer us! 😜👅
eric turn your can upside down and push the nozzle fir just a second it clears it so you don't get that dried paint clog (works 99% of the time).
I'm about to rattlecan my first gun tomorrow, thanks for the advice friend!
@@kyotra cool beans, 😊hope it turns out the way you like.
remember less is more🖒
The Bob Ross of gun painting in the land of happy little trees...
Fucking love it! LOL!!!!🤣🤣🤣
With a happy little rattle can and a happy little AK. 😀
Where is the Fro...
@@unclemikessouthernoutdoors3783 Chad is growing it
Dang it. You beat me to the Bob Ross comment
its your gun. theirs no mistakes. just happy little trees. put them where ever you want
I wonder why you dont use clear paint to camo it. Wouldnt a invisble AK be much better than a black/tan one?
Very underrated comment.
Invizdabulz
He really should splurge for we subs and buy some Ninja brand spray paint.
Yes but you only lose it once
I don't know if it's the same on these cans... But on most cans, once you are finished.. Hold it upside down and spray, and you'll see that paint comes out for like 2 seconds and then it turns into a clear air........... That means the nozzle and straw are now clean.
"Quick video."
*3 1 M I N U T E S*
And 10 seconds😁
These videos encourage me to step up and move ahead with the vision I have for a shotgun and one of my rifles.
Instead of burlap, but for the same effect, drywall tape works really well cause you can actually tape off an area and still get the mesh look...Also, the orange net bags from the super market that oranges and clementines come in works well also.
One think I really like about this channel is that you don't have a meaningless and boring intro ! Keep up the good work !
I lay down a base coat/color. Then i spray multiple colors of rustoleum onto a paper plate, mix with a sponge and dab the paint on. Resembles a form of the "Atacs camo" . i go light shades on areas that dip in and dark on areas that bump out.
Good idea!
Same here dude I have s bid on my channel of that technique it works the best
Yup i mix the colors to suit my "area of operations" when im operating operator style. Like minds think the same. A round on me fellas🍻
A8vscRrabbit dilly dilly
Not sure about the makeup of Aluma-Hyde per say, but clear coat is typically used for UV sunlight protection from breaking down the actual base coat and more or less physical protection from bumps, scrapes, gouges, etc.
As exciting as watching paint dry! Next time, on Iraqveteran8888: Watching Paint Dry On My Rifle!
You're the Bob Ross of gun painting, lol!
Alumahide has talc for finish purposes, so alumahide needs mixed/shaken for long length of time. When you're thinking you shook it enough, do it again.
When taking breaks, turn the can upside down, then spray until just air comes out. This will keep the nozzle clean.
Speeding up the video 1.75x helps to see the process faster. Great vid Eric. The finished product looked like a boss. Thank you sir.
Nobody:
Brownells: we make spray paint now
Always flip the can and blow out the paint in the nozzle if you're going to store the can. Also a Bamboo disposable Chopstick with painters take wrapped around and shoved in the Barrel makes a decent handle for when your painting the Barrel
I think he should blow across the hole in the can nozzle like those old Hollywood cowboys would blow the smoke out of the barrel of their six shooter after they had deep six'd a bad guy.
Degrease and prep the crap out of whatever you're coating. I've used AH on probably a half dozen guns. The prep goes A LONG way. I've found that bundling the can up in a towel and tying it, then running it in the dryer for about 10 minutes will warm up the paint and it seems to apply better, plus it shakes it up for you.
Just coated some of the accessories on my ar in parkerized aluma-hyde and I love it! Turned out very handsome and he is 100% right, all the time is in the prep work
Dont ever look down the barrel of a loaded spray can eric......
Good point. Ive gotten paint in my eyes before and its not fun! 😅
The bob Ross of gun painting 🎨
Back in my Bondo, spray paint days, with my cars, I learned the trick to turn the spray cans upside down. With the can inverted you can spray just gas to blow out the paint.
I've used that product many times
.love it!!!
Love this style of content!
Years ago when I was still a whipper snapper and my body wasn't all worn out and busted down I got into camo painting my longbows and a Marlin model 60 rifle I used for squirrel hunting.
Something that really worked well after a good job a prepping is to wrap the strand of fake Ivy around the weapon for it's entire length. Be sure to leave plenty of open spaces along the Ivy wrap so that paint will have enough room to get by the vine and leaves and onto the weapon. Sometimes you may find it beneficial to remove some of the leaves from the fake Ivy so that the coverage it makes on the weapon won't be so dense that paint can't reach the surface you wish to paint. I also reversed the direction of the way I wrapped the vine each time I changed paint colors. There are two ways to use the texture paints that I am going to describe shortly.
Number one: go ahead and spray every color you intend to use except black. Then on areas that I wasn't going to be touching very often I sprayed texture paint. There are two types of texture paint that I know of. One has a texture that resembles very coarse sand or ittsy bittsy pebbles; the other sprays on shiny black then after it dries over-night it will be flat black and very wrinkled. It looks cool. Two things though, if I remember correctly, both only come in black, must be used on metal that is no cooler than 70° F, and it must dry for no less than 24 hours in a place that gets no lower than 70°F.
Number two: use the type of texture paint or even use each in a different area but this time use texture paint on areas that you won't be touching often or ever and then use regular flat black as your base coat. Then just use the instructions I wrote in the other way to use texture paint.
Two more things:
A. It's a good idea to practice on a plank of metal or wood, anything but your rifle, before permanently committing upon your rifle. Remember, this is like getting a tattoo. Once you start it's permanent and there's no going back.
B. It is far better to use many layers, each color done in a light mist rather that a wet, thick coat. It is also much better for paint adhesion if you allow each light misted coat to dry a full day before spraying the next coat. I know, I know, it will take a lifetime if you do it that way. So what! Get a hobby to occupy your time while the paint dries. Heck, grow a beard. That's a fun and exciting way to spend your free time.
Always wear a painters mask and eye protection.
My camo jobs were so like our woods here in Dixie that I could easily loose a bow or rifle if I leaned it against a tree and walked away from it some distance. Keep that in mind.
Very cool
“I want chaos in this finish, I don’t want it to look like something I want it to look like nothing”
I just used Aluma Hyde 2 in matte black to redo a ithaca model 37 featherlight. It turned out great, way better than expected! Extensive prep, and a $14 harbor freight heat gun are your greatest allies.
I did the whole gun with half a can, 4 coats total.
Awesome episode Eric an thanks for the knowledge about this product Sir. Very interesting process !!!!!!!!!
My brother spray painted one of his AR-15s and it took him 2 days because of Cold weather so my dad suggested that he should use the hair dryer to help him dry it up. That really works.
A quick video....? From you guys!? I about fell out of my chair!!
Used this as well as Cerakote and like this much more than any other coating!!
Brownells sells a bag of 25 nozzles (black) for like 5.00. They also sell clean out nozzles (green) so it will keep the tube in the can free of any build up. (which cause that splotchy spatter)
That AK looks good!
Omit the black! Black stands out and is one of the easiest colors to spot.
You know what would be really fun to see ?
I was thinking about painting a rifle by shooting the sprays next to it. You can line them up for a crazy cool effect or shoot them one by one from different angles all around the gun !!
Trust me it's gonna be a lot of fun !
You might want to be careful with your angles and caliber choice if you don't want shrapnel or bullet fragments hitting the firearm but that's basically the only thing you have to worry about
Real nice job you did Eric. The rifle looks really good.
That slotted rail is sweeeeeet.
About a minute in I said to myself "Don't paint the Saiga!!"
Love your channel guys , wish we had your view on guns here in the UK
stagz 1 ... Time for your own revolution.
@@JW...-oj5iw if only .... On the 25th the government pulled our right to hunt 16 animals on the pest list because a hippie TV presenter wrote a posh letter to the government saying animals such as pigeons r being killed for no reason ! So now all I can legally hunt with my guns is rabbits and squirrel and brown rats and they just aren't as tasty as pigeons and doves 😫
@@stagz1358 Guns aren't just for hunting.
@@bryanbiltoft8141 very true Iv just come back from a session on the targets but IV been hunting for close on 20 years it's a kick in the teeth that it's been pulled out from under me
@@stagz1358 You have got to stand up for yourself man. They aren't just taking your right to hunt, they're taking your freedom. They'll keep taking it in baby steps until you have nothing left unless you and your fellow countrymen do something about it.
Well done video. Very helpful. Will be using your techniques. Thank you very much. 👍
" I don't want it to look like something. I want it to look like nothing" .......Master!
Arrr.....Teeeest! You did a great Job!
I have a Khyber parts kit that I had built but not finished u just influenced me to go out to garden and paint this thing, I might add more greens though, I'm in Kentucky so the greens are green here lol
America is the best country in the world! Thumbs up 👍 if you agree!
Geographically - yes. Politically - depends. Economically - hell no.
Get gone then
All Alumahide coats need applied within one half of an hour, or after its completely cured, which is one to two weeks, or 300-350 degrees for 3.5 hours.
Tip Use Navy Jelly for rust then Steel wool 00 then more navy jelly try that before you rebuke it then do your paint over that.
I have a Polish Tantal and I think that handguard is badass........I would love to get me one of those! great paint job Eric! .....KEEP ON ROCKIN IT!............Iraqveteran8888..........................
Great video. If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.
Eric I enjoy your videos , so if you're going to use the aerosol can to spray things ?
remember a can of starting fluid with the straw will blow out the airsoft tip so it does not clog up ,? 😎
The nozzles were clogging because you weren't tipping the can upside down and spraying the can 'til it stopped spraying paint. You have to clear the tip of paint when you're done using the can.
That's the 1st time I've ever enjoyed watching paint dry .
Bob Ross: "There is a happy little bunny right under this tree.." 😊
South Park Uncle Jimbo: "And he is coming right for us!" 😮
(massive shooting)
South Park Ned: "mmm get er done!" 😂
That’s art man, good job
I'm thinking we need a GoFundMe to get Eric some more t-shirts. He can wear Jurassic Park only so many days in a row...
They probably filmed several videos on the same day hence the same shirt in several videos.
That is better than most "modern art".
This never showed up on my feed.☹️
"Today we are going to be doing a quick video" 30 mins later "well guess that wasnt so quick"
the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hydrographic spray on hardener...dont over do it on the hardener just go back can's instructions and that hardens over time too even more which is the same hardeners they use when they hydro dip guns at a lot of the factories
Forget real tree! That thing turned out great and it looks fun. I never thought about painting my fire arms....this is going on the hi-points .🤩
Omg! This video is Awesome! Never thought about painting a gun, but good to know there is an alternative to my wife's nail polish. I cant convince her to get camo colors...😒
Go to your grocery store and buy by the gallon, canning vinegar, 9% instead of 6% acidity, take all the metal parts and place fully submerged in a tub, check every 12 hours, remove old vinegar and rusty water until clear. Also at each flush use a brass cleaning brush on the parts. Sometimes it takes 24-72 hours. Just check on to make sure after all of the rust is gone that it is not attacking the metal.... if you are not going to finish immediately then coat with mineral oil. Find plugs or other for barrel prior to starting. Sometimes earplugs will work.
Whenever I order Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II paint I always order an extra pack of nozzles too. Another thing when using Aluma-Hyde II is to use a pin that is used to inflate football/basketball/soccer balls to clean the nozzles out when they get plugged or when done using the can for a while.
don't follow this guy's advice is what i can tell people lol...if for some reason it starts clogging you put the can upside down spray until it comes out clear ,shake it a few seconds and you are good to go without buying any nozzles...never use anything like a needle or pin inside the nozzle it will mess it up more then help it, just wanted people to be informed not told something wrong
I might go this route instead of cerakote. I would love to get some m81 camo stencils and coat my cadex chassis. And the rifle came out so badass Chuck Norris would love it! Awesome job!
I like the low quality hobby lobby craft copper wire to suspend my projects. Works awesome and I can bend it to allow paint to get more places where string would cover.
You have my hat on! Good vid!
Its still a black and grey gun.. sticks out at @29:20 ...
That clear coat made a world of distance!
Dont forget the part about where you need to either bake it or let it sit for a long time to fully cure. I just got a big cardboard box and shot in hot air from a blow dryer for several hours. You can use the oven but risk pissing off the wife.
Temps were pretty high and the coating has held up.
I painted my LR-308 with Rust-oleum camo paint. I used (I don't remember what) solvent to clean the gun first. Anyways, I like how the paint turned out, and I also like how it's wearing after about 14 months, which is quite a bit on the major touch points. I like the worn look though, and that's kind of what I was looking for.
Might want to tape up those sights beforehand. Want to be able to see those sights clearly. I had a problem with that when I did my AR
To keep the nozzles from clogging hold can upside down from time to time and spray until spray is clear.
Due to the talk that gives matte paints the matte appearance, the pickup tube in the can may become clogged as well. We offer a clean-out nozzle to that will clear out the pickup tube in the can. Item number 084-179-004.
Flipping the can upside and spraying til its clear helps.
Aluma Hyde won’t effect the function of the rifle when assembled? Was thinking about using it on my AK but was worried I had to disassemble everything before coating!
Also clearances won't be affected. If it were and an AR or something tighter you'd wanna take up those entry ports.
Used it on my first AR build. Naturally I had it disassembled. Sprayed parts off with non-chlorine engine degreaser, painted, and baked it in an oven. Finish has held up perfectly minus the shell deflector, actually better than my Duracoat jobs. No problems with clearance/fitment issues.
Worth it for an easy, durable paint job
I say do not spray critical moving parts.
Ah the classic jurassic park t-shirt!
I couldn't really pay attention to what Eric was saying, I kept looking for movement back there in the woods....
If it's possible I would love to see a full review of the B&T Suppressed VP9 WELROD 9mm. They call it the “veterinary pistol” This is NOT a H&K VP9 it's a handgun made just for dispatching large animals.
Let's just have fun with it.. say it one. More. Time!!!
Tiny shapes or splattered bits of rust red primer. Sounds strange but works great. I cut a cardboard gun sometimes to "test" my color ideas.
Good idea. :)
You can get 3 guns out of one can. Its best to use the can all at once. If you try to store it chances are it will not spray again. Aftermarket spray tips some times work some times do not. After use store your left over cans upside down and you will need to replace the nozzle. For thick coats use a heat gun behind light coats over and over again seems to work best. Its says to use above a temp of 70 Deg. I will not spray till mid 80s. Oven cure at 190 to 220 for 3 hours and done. Avoid spraying small moving parts, " Bolt, Trigger, Front Trunnion, Springs. " Very thick and heavy duty coat. If you mess up the only thing that will take this stuff off is airplane paint stripper. Again I say do not spray critical moving parts.
I've always had really good results with just some krylon camo color paints. I paint all of my guns! I even have a bright caution orange AR which looks fucking ridiculous but people seem to love it every time I take it to the range!
I coulda used Chad’s extra pair of hands last night actually sprayed my ks47. I just did an urban gray camo pattern over the black. But my Grendel that I hunt with I did the full on camo and used a crab net to brake it up came out really nice I used it for about a year and wore the paint off in all the high spots then I sprayed it with the flat clear coat to keep that battle worn look. I couldn’t be happier. It’s funny though cuz the first time I painted it I hated it and thought I ruined my rifle lol. I stripped the paint off did it again still didn’t like it but didn’t Wana strip it again so I just painted it back black and did the final camo paint job over that. So for anyone hesitant on painting their rifle just go for it, it can always be undone.
Cool paint job!
Looks like a good camo for your boogaloo yeetstick.
Lol
You guys are so great with me 22s I need to see the bergara bxr 22 in action. This looks like it’s going to really hurt the volquartsens of the world .
yeah chad from the butt my nozzles clogged lmao seriously you guys keep it up always great vids
How well does this hold up on plastics like the grip? Does it get gummy after a while?
I've had very good luck using hi-temp Rustoleum spray paint.
I wonder how high temp engine paint would hold up on firearms , provided you can get the desired colors ? Anybody got any input - feedback ?
Also anyone else reminded of Bob Ross lol?
Great, now I gotta make a meme of Chad with a Bob Ross afro. Beat the devil out of it 😈
Davey.j.bowski This is Eric, no?
Looks great
thanks for doing this Eric, can you maybe do a basic level intro on all of the available finishing options and the time/difficulty/prep required? I want to do my AK as well but am somewhat lost in the various options. I think it would be cool to coat the friction areas (bolt carrier rails, trigger, etc) with some sort of high lubricity finish after giving them a good polish but not sure if something like that exists.
Eric, now do one with Duracoat.
BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE II and the original BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE. Have different application and cure methods.
I really like that stock! Where can I get one?
Dad always told me to turn the can upside down to spray out the nozzle so it wouldnt clog. wonder if it would work with aluma hyde
isaacg4
It does
If you are based in California could you please tell me what I have to do with my Colt Government .45ACP Stainless Steel pistol now that the state of California bans their sale or possession?
Diggin' that shirt.
It's like watching paint dry😁
Lol
24:01 Me: waking up after a night of drinking next to a random woman, going to the bathroom a pissing red speckled FIRE SYRUP!
@Grwmkegthr LAstname LMAO.....NAH MAN, your not living right if you have not had the clap at least once. You gotta get out and enjoy what this world has to offer us! 😜👅
Speaking of brownell’s when re you guys going to do a brn 180 video?