This is probably kind of weird, but after spending a year in the auto industry I find it incredibly satisfying to thoroughly clean every new part I get with alcohol or acetone, because I was so used to dealing with truck parts that came to me caked with grease and grime. Good video.
@@zacsdiygunsI agree, once you do it there’s no going back, I had a guy bring me a gun recently asking if I could get the spray paint off and I mean he had sprayed it all over in multiple layers and I was like yeah I probably can but the gun might not be the same lol 😂, he even admitted he wish he wouldn’t have done it.
There are companies that make high temperature rattle can paints in different colors for barbeque grills. I've got one can in dark brown and one in a very light tan that seem to work well on the barrels I've tried them on.
Can i just say that calab has helped me with understanding guns, working on guns and he showed me a lot of stuff i wouldn't know otherwise. Thank you calab. Very cool
This is a really detailed and fairly complex breakdown on how to paint a rifle. The results will probably be really durable and sharp, and if that's what you're going for then fine. But as someone who's painted a lot of rifles in the past (in the military and civilian world) just wipe it down till it's dry and tape it off, then spray the damned thing... I tape off all the lenses (obviously) and any buttons on the optics, as well as any small labels which will help you remember what kind of battery the optic takes without you having to open the battery compartment. Especially any labels which remind you which way to turn your turrets or turn a power setting wheel. Then tape off any rubberized grips, butt pads, or rail covers. (maybe even remove your rail covers) Also, remember to tape off any mating surfaces. Those are precisely machined flat metal areas meant to mate perfectly with another mating surface, such as a mounting footprint for a red dot or scope. Odds are those are already mounted, and it won't be an issue for you. But if you're disassembling the rifle as seen in this video, it may be an issue. Metal to metal mating surfaces should be totally clean of any paint. Don't spray too close and don't do too thick of a coat. You're better off doing 4 or 5 light coats than you are doing 1 or 2 thick coats. Even a matte finish paint will look shiny if you spray it on too thick. A thin coat will also dry a lot faster, and then you can follow it up with another coat sooner. Versus doing a thick coat and having to wait longer for it to dry, and potentially ending up with poor results. For ideas on what colors to use, I suggest you walk outside or take a stroll in your environment of choice. What colors do you see? What colors would remain in the winter when the leaves are dead and trees are bare?... The colors that remain all year long are the ones that should be your primary colors, and primary colors are often (not always) applied last. For instance, if you're in the Midwest then the colors which remain all year long would be brown, tan, and a small amount of green because we have a lot of evergreens. Brown and tan would be the most common colors in both summer and winter, so those are the ones you'd want to focus on. Make sure you get the right color to match, and Brownell's Alumihide is awesome. But so is basic Rustoleum camo colors, and a few others. Which paint would be more durable?... Who cares! If you're serious about blending your weapon into the environment then you're probably going to do this a few times over the life of your weapon, and the paint job will look better as it wears out over time. This is a paint job, not a Cerakote finish. You're trying to blend your rifle into reality, so it shouldn't look like a weapon skin from COD multiplayer. My current go-to rifle had an evergreen paintjob, and now it's so worn out that it looks like I carried it through three tours in Afghanistan. That's a good thing. If I was going to use it with serious intent in a slightly different environment, I'd paint it again. ALSO: Tape off the muzzle device if it's expected to have additional mounting items like a suppressor. If you're running a SureFire Warcomp muzzle device, it's not going to mount properly to your suppressor if it's painted. Even if it does, it'll overheat and cook the paint inside the suppressor against the mounting surface. I also recommend not painting over your selector lever. You can, but you don't want to alter the frictional traits of an important surface like that. If you have (or plan to have) grip tape on any surface of your weapon, I recommend placing the grip take BEFORE you paint. Then you should probably tape over the grip tape before you paint, unless you want to make it a different color. But then do a very light coat only.
SAFETY 1st, and then cleanliness during and after prep allows the coating to perform its best. Many people look at high quality coatings and say "well they're all paint and paint is crap" Not true. Properly prepped items which have the coating applied as per their directions will perform very well.
Brake cleaner will blast oil off quicker, then finish with acetone. Scotch brite red pads from auto stores if you don’t have access to a sand blasting system
We have successfully used old wire coat hangers to form painting hooks. Once bent with pliets into shape, they stay that shape! I have never heard of Iron Wire. I need to check into that stuff! You could always form a double, J hook, to insert into the throat of your foward rail, to hang it. Then no wire is in the way of your sprayed paint. I also up-cycled and old outdoor chair swing, frame. And converted it into my spray paint, parts hanger! Its big, but works!
I just finished spraying a 9mm AR that has Magpul furniture. I'm not sure if it was necessary but I sprayed all the plastic parts with Bulldog adhesion promoter. Haven't put it through much use yet to see how it holds up long term but I don't think it hurt anything.
If s🅱️ec ops 🅱️ainted wieners like this you would all copy it. But since they use mesh bags and take the easy way due to not wanting to look like grill masters you all copy along. The 90% here will just do the lazy crap mesh or stri🅱️es, neither of which look like grill marks. Many have done cookout camo but most are afraid to show here due to fear of being picked on and that’s flavorless. And where piggies?
I was planning on doing a 870 Remington 12ga, just receiver, it’s the camo one from the factory. Is there anything I need to do special? Or just acetone and go?
What about using fine stainless steel wool to scruff the surface prior to painting? I dont have access to a blaster. Or should I just use acetone and spray?
You mentioned all kinds of steel and poly finishes but totally ignored PARKERIZED wps i have a 1911 parkerized is that a no go candidate for aluma hyde????
Don’t sweat the details people, when the paint wears a little it looks better, like a well used, battle worn firearm. Just have fun with it, or leave it alone
Not trying to be a turd but man I haven’t seen someone go into such detail about putting a part on wire, but I’m sure there is someone out there that needs it lol😂.
Maybe if I had a handle like yours I would not have learned anything either. But I did learn (1) black iron wire is the stuff because (2) it lets you make wide loops to expose the part better and (3) it holds its shape to support stuff internally and also (4) degrease that wire too. Even though I use black iron wire for other things I would not have figured all that out on my own. But only you can decide whether or not you're a turd.
@@davidburns5498 I really wasn’t trying to come off as a butt head but I was like dang he’s going into that wire in super detail, but like I said I’m sure some people can use it.
When I spray, I go through the screw holes if you miss a bit the bolt covers it. Spray it, don't coat it. You're not rhino lining unless you are. I liked that look.. For the record, I like that old DPMS finish on their more high-end stuff. Where are you DP? Some of us miss you . More of your larger arm retailers need to follow the PSA model if you don't,t hey will take over the industry in a decade. Calab, you're not Steve, but you're growing on me.
If s🅱️ec ops 🅱️ainted wieners like this you would all copy it. But since they use mesh bags and take the easy way due to not wanting to look like grill masters you all copy along. The 90% here will just do the lazy crap mesh or stri🅱️es, neither of which look like grill marks. Many have done cookout camo but most are afraid to show here due to fear of being picked on and that’s flavorless.
Check out the rest of the series here- th-cam.com/play/PLRNgjwKiAAECuJ9cYcTeaXLg-lvCTgIXq.html&si=BjPo60ykIeu-fLb-
This is probably kind of weird, but after spending a year in the auto industry I find it incredibly satisfying to thoroughly clean every new part I get with alcohol or acetone, because I was so used to dealing with truck parts that came to me caked with grease and grime. Good video.
As a shop owner watching people krylon their guns makes me cringe
@@zacsdiygunsI agree, once you do it there’s no going back, I had a guy bring me a gun recently asking if I could get the spray paint off and I mean he had sprayed it all over in multiple layers and I was like yeah I probably can but the gun might not be the same lol 😂, he even admitted he wish he wouldn’t have done it.
@@renegadearms I did a short on a spray painted glock. Some guys say "battleworn looks good, just spray it again" lol
@@renegadearmsWhy did he want it off? Peeling, chipping?
@@5jjt yeah it was worn down and looked crappy and I think he also changed his mind and just wanted it back to stock again.
Yes! More content like this please! TH-cam needs as much gunsmithing stuff as possible.
These videos need 100x times the views that they have atm
There are companies that make high temperature rattle can paints in different colors for barbeque grills. I've got one can in dark brown and one in a very light tan that seem to work well on the barrels I've tried them on.
I learned to cut up an old wire coat hanger & use pliers to make custom hooks when I was painting guns.
Can i just say that calab has helped me with understanding guns, working on guns and he showed me a lot of stuff i wouldn't know otherwise. Thank you calab. Very cool
Thanks! Happy to help!
This is a really detailed and fairly complex breakdown on how to paint a rifle. The results will probably be really durable and sharp, and if that's what you're going for then fine. But as someone who's painted a lot of rifles in the past (in the military and civilian world) just wipe it down till it's dry and tape it off, then spray the damned thing...
I tape off all the lenses (obviously) and any buttons on the optics, as well as any small labels which will help you remember what kind of battery the optic takes without you having to open the battery compartment. Especially any labels which remind you which way to turn your turrets or turn a power setting wheel. Then tape off any rubberized grips, butt pads, or rail covers. (maybe even remove your rail covers) Also, remember to tape off any mating surfaces. Those are precisely machined flat metal areas meant to mate perfectly with another mating surface, such as a mounting footprint for a red dot or scope. Odds are those are already mounted, and it won't be an issue for you. But if you're disassembling the rifle as seen in this video, it may be an issue. Metal to metal mating surfaces should be totally clean of any paint.
Don't spray too close and don't do too thick of a coat. You're better off doing 4 or 5 light coats than you are doing 1 or 2 thick coats. Even a matte finish paint will look shiny if you spray it on too thick. A thin coat will also dry a lot faster, and then you can follow it up with another coat sooner. Versus doing a thick coat and having to wait longer for it to dry, and potentially ending up with poor results.
For ideas on what colors to use, I suggest you walk outside or take a stroll in your environment of choice. What colors do you see? What colors would remain in the winter when the leaves are dead and trees are bare?... The colors that remain all year long are the ones that should be your primary colors, and primary colors are often (not always) applied last. For instance, if you're in the Midwest then the colors which remain all year long would be brown, tan, and a small amount of green because we have a lot of evergreens. Brown and tan would be the most common colors in both summer and winter, so those are the ones you'd want to focus on. Make sure you get the right color to match, and Brownell's Alumihide is awesome. But so is basic Rustoleum camo colors, and a few others.
Which paint would be more durable?... Who cares! If you're serious about blending your weapon into the environment then you're probably going to do this a few times over the life of your weapon, and the paint job will look better as it wears out over time. This is a paint job, not a Cerakote finish. You're trying to blend your rifle into reality, so it shouldn't look like a weapon skin from COD multiplayer. My current go-to rifle had an evergreen paintjob, and now it's so worn out that it looks like I carried it through three tours in Afghanistan. That's a good thing. If I was going to use it with serious intent in a slightly different environment, I'd paint it again.
ALSO: Tape off the muzzle device if it's expected to have additional mounting items like a suppressor. If you're running a SureFire Warcomp muzzle device, it's not going to mount properly to your suppressor if it's painted. Even if it does, it'll overheat and cook the paint inside the suppressor against the mounting surface. I also recommend not painting over your selector lever. You can, but you don't want to alter the frictional traits of an important surface like that. If you have (or plan to have) grip tape on any surface of your weapon, I recommend placing the grip take BEFORE you paint. Then you should probably tape over the grip tape before you paint, unless you want to make it a different color. But then do a very light coat only.
Great video. The facts on heat tolerance are good info. Thanks
Gun painting with Caleb Ross only happy accidents happen.
SAFETY 1st, and then cleanliness during and after prep allows the coating to perform its best. Many people look at high quality coatings and say "well they're all paint and paint is crap" Not true. Properly prepped items which have the coating applied as per their directions will perform very well.
Brake cleaner will blast oil off quicker, then finish with acetone. Scotch brite red pads from auto stores if you don’t have access to a sand blasting system
We have successfully used old wire coat hangers to form painting hooks. Once bent with pliets into shape, they stay that shape! I have never heard of Iron Wire. I need to check into that stuff!
You could always form a double, J hook, to insert into the throat of your foward rail, to hang it. Then no wire is in the way of your sprayed paint.
I also up-cycled and old outdoor chair swing, frame. And converted it into my spray paint, parts hanger! Its big, but works!
"Iron Wire" is just "re-bar" wire or "tie" wire. Available at any hardware store
I have used old, soft bristle, tooth brushes, to clean crevises on parts. Gets in tight spots, real good.
ME ALSO!
I use cardboard for firearm parts, but also for vehicle engines or really anything I need to keep track of different size parts /bolts.
I just finished spraying a 9mm AR that has Magpul furniture. I'm not sure if it was necessary but I sprayed all the plastic parts with Bulldog adhesion promoter. Haven't put it through much use yet to see how it holds up long term but I don't think it hurt anything.
Horrible adhesion promoter. Ove seen mirrors, door handles, bumpers flake with that stuff.
@@zacsdiyguns I've used it on countless plastic automotive parts over the last 16 years in body shops, never had an issue.
@@mattfreimark5248 yep ive seen comebacks at 2 shops
"Words are hard" 😆😆😆😆had me rolling
Do you have any opinions on duracoat? I've used it once before and was alright. Only annoying thing is it takes about a month to fully cure
Good stuff
7 days
Bet
Phonecalls from a well
Start the drums
Lmao
If s🅱️ec ops 🅱️ainted wieners like this you would all copy it. But since they use mesh bags and take the easy way due to not wanting to look like grill masters you all copy along. The 90% here will just do the lazy crap mesh or stri🅱️es, neither of which look like grill marks. Many have done cookout camo but most are afraid to show here due to fear of being picked on and that’s flavorless.
And where piggies?
excellent video on
how to make painting your firearm
really, really, complicated!
I've been using Cerakote C, the air dry version. Which one is the more durable, this or the Cerakote C?
I put some c on my door handles, it's held up well.
I was planning on doing a 870 Remington 12ga, just receiver, it’s the camo one from the factory. Is there anything I need to do special? Or just acetone and go?
Whats the next best way to prep my SS etc, without having a sand blaster?
Teck question. Can you soda blasting? It is similar to sand just a lot finer.
Thanks
What about using fine stainless steel wool to scruff the surface prior to painting? I dont have access to a blaster. Or should I just use acetone and spray?
I've got a polymer stock that I want to spray with Alumahyde, would you still recommend using Acetone for preparation?
You mentioned all kinds of steel and poly finishes but totally ignored PARKERIZED wps i have a 1911 parkerized is that a no go candidate for aluma hyde????
Would this work for Glock pins and withstand takedown with the Glock tool?
If parts are anodized, maybe cleaning in a sink with water and dish soap first would really help minimize the acetone needed.
What no canvas or oil paints?
Don’t sweat the details people, when the paint wears a little it looks better, like a well used, battle worn firearm. Just have fun with it, or leave it alone
Will it bond to that Hogue rubber material?
I honestly don’t think any p
Paint will stick to the rubber
@@dancarter7009was thinking the same. I love their grips so I'll probably just go with plain green when available
💯 love green 🤙🏻
Hello..... Is there anyway other than grit blasting!??
I use crayons 🖍️
Crayola RULZ
Would 220-320 grit sandpaper work well for prepping the surface?
That's what I'm wondering...or what would work best if no blaster
I just taped over the glass and rattle canned mine.
Great Video💯💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
Damn.... now I have to alumahide my ugly guns! 😊
Caleb's hair is sponsored by Sex wax. Also brought to you in part from the makers of Sole Glow!
It's actually a custom line - loxandcompany.com/custom-line/baron-balm/
It's Dapper Dan!... we've had this discussion before. Lol
Not trying to be a turd but man I haven’t seen someone go into such detail about putting a part on wire, but I’m sure there is someone out there that needs it lol😂.
Maybe if I had a handle like yours I would not have learned anything either. But I did learn (1) black iron wire is the stuff because (2) it lets you make wide loops to expose the part better and (3) it holds its shape to support stuff internally and also (4) degrease that wire too. Even though I use black iron wire for other things I would not have figured all that out on my own. But only you can decide whether or not you're a turd.
@@davidburns5498 I really wasn’t trying to come off as a butt head but I was like dang he’s going into that wire in super detail, but like I said I’m sure some people can use it.
Where the toes at?
When I spray, I go through the screw holes if you miss a bit the bolt covers it. Spray it, don't coat it. You're not rhino lining unless you are. I liked that look.. For the record, I like that old DPMS finish on their more high-end stuff. Where are you DP? Some of us miss you . More of your larger arm retailers need to follow the PSA model if you don't,t hey will take over the industry in a decade. Calab, you're not Steve, but you're growing on me.
Stranglehold Outdoors 🇺🇸
I didn't think acetone was a decreaser.
Shit, if i have to wear an apron, i aint paintin it.
You could reuse the acetone if you have a solvent trap. 😂
If I leave my rifle leaning up against a wall, will it bend my barrel? 😉 😜
Yes, your gun will instantly turn into a 25 Moa gun
Prep prep prep. If you dont prep right coatings are 💩
Smyth busters…WTH…😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
A wise person once said "Cleanliness is next to Godliness!"
Thanks for reacting to my facebook post nerd
Thanks, but not disassembling first lol
If s🅱️ec ops 🅱️ainted wieners like this you would all copy it. But since they use mesh bags and take the easy way due to not wanting to look like grill masters you all copy along. The 90% here will just do the lazy crap mesh or stri🅱️es, neither of which look like grill marks. Many have done cookout camo but most are afraid to show here due to fear of being picked on and that’s flavorless.
It's funny because we get the reference 😆
What's the best thing to use if you don't have a sand blaster?
That's cool, now spray paint it.
A bit long winded with explanations.. Can we get to it please.