Thanks for watching everybody! These are the photography grade LED strips: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575347517&toolid=10001&campid=5338215129&customid=&icep_item=182965299789&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg The rest of the parts are in the description.
Great video and project. But here's a thing: The shot with “bad” LED's has more detail and contrast. The other shot has more colour blending, so things ikke the wrinkels in your forehead disappears. Can you get the level of contrast and detail from the bad LEDs with the good LEDs?
rasmis to my eye the detail is there in both shots. The difference in wrinkles is more to do with the expression on his face. He doesn't have his eyebrows raised as much, so he doesn't have the same level of wrinkling. Also looking at the shadows suggest that the light wasn't in the same position, so there's a possibility of that effecting the visibility of wrinkles. In terms of contrast I can't see a marked difference either, at least nothing that I wouldn't put down to camera settings/exposure values.
Not gonna lie... When you first showed the finished product, I thought it was something you bought and then modified. It looks SO well done and professionally made. 10/10
MKBHD reviews products other people have given him, like a film critic. DIY Perks creates things from scratch. For me that creative step carries more importance.
I don't know if I even need to say this because I feel like everyone knows it already, but your diy videos are hands down one of the highest quality series on all of TH-cam! Really nice one, always excited for your videos!
Not to say you're wrong (because these are really well produced videos), but you should check out Clickspring. His videos are so incredibly produced, especially for an "amateur" as he puts it. For perspective, I'm subscribed to 150 channels, but I'm a patron for only a couple channels: this one and Clickspring's.
Normally i dont comment, but i want to say thank you. All this DIY LED solutions are so great for me as a filmmaker. Especially the LED Panel. Thank you.
I have modified my version. All dimming controls are external using a 5050 DMX controller and added RGB Amber and UV giving me full control over the entire colour spectrum. 8 channels each. (Controlled on the negative not positive.) and made 16 of them for mounting on 2metre F34 quad truss totems with moving head spots. Gives the stage a pop of colour effect and some other uses too. 128 channels of computer controlled lighting. Used a bit thicker Al sheet
How to make a DIY Perks video - Use alluminum sheets - Use good quality led's - Hack a bunch of circuit boards together for your needs - Have a nice soothing voice and good quality videos
I kinda miss the really interesting videos, the pc control hub, or the 100w flashlight etc. Now it's just as you said. Ledstrips, and various ways to use them. But still high quality.
Great low cost project that will help a lot of photographers/videographers. Very well done, great lighting, perfect narration and easy to follow. Love the fact that the background music wasn't super loud but used in a way to eliminate the 'dead-air" silence in most other videos. I look forward to seeing more of these on your channel. Just subscribed after only one video. Keep up the good work and thanks.
Thank you Matt. Your projects are superb and well thought out. The way you build and the materials you choose bring a new level of quality to DIY building that no one else on YT is doing.
Good looking project! I love the emphasis on neatness you put in your videos. You might enjoy using a brad point drill on your sheet metal rather than the standard twist drill as it usually leaves a neater hole.
This whole build is great but what really impressed me was the 3 power sockets for daisy chaining. It only made sense to me at the end and I face-palmed so hard. Genius!
Don't solder the grounding wire before crimping it! Solder flows under pressure, so that means that if you clam down a soldered wire, it'll work loose on its own. This is also why you never solder wires before crimping a crimp on there.
There all ways someone saying "don't solder the end of the wires when connecting to a terminal" I been soldering wires end and putting them in terminals for years and it's just fine for home use just make sure you torque it down right so it is pre smushed. Now the Europeans are very picky about this though and there's no sense going for their heads when it comes to cost and budget. I can't just show up and spend a dollar each time I want to make a connection like that. I love the guys but sometimes they are overprotective.
For hobbiest grade stuff that isn't critical or high power soldering a wire and then crimping or screwing in a terminal is just fine (I've done it myself many a time). But for anything where reliability and safety come before cost or ease of manufacture then it is a no go as it can cause loose wires over time (imagine medical/aerospace/military equipment scenarios where even a 1 in 1000 catastrophic failure is unacceptable).
Sir_wolf Art You'd actually save money soldering a wire instead of screwing it. And I can't see how not soldering the wire before connecting it into the terminal would make you spend 1 dollar. You can leave it unsoldered or solder it afterwards, and you don't lose a cent.
What a neat idea, and a very sleek design. I'm seriously considering making it... edit: So I calculated the price of it to be almost exactly 500 Norwegian kroner. Store bought studio lights are usually ten times that, at least! Some that are less versatile are maybe 5 or 6 times as expensive. Man, this thing is winning me over. XD
You should be aware that solder flows under pressure, like where you've put solder on the negative wire, then tightened the nut onto it. This can cause connection issues in the future. A crimped loop connector would be a great option here. Otherwise, this is an awesome video!
I have NEVER thought ice blue and daylight LED strips could achieve something this fantastic. Great job, definitely using this in the future for looks.
Amazing stuff, another great LED project... I made the 30x30cm flexible strip a while back and it works FANTASTIC, and that's seriously an under statement... So I'm pretty sure I'll be making a couple of these especially since I have a cnc router at hand ;) Big thanks for all the links to some good quality led's... Your channel is one of my top 5 favourites and always makes my day when I find one of your videos in my feed, keep doing what your doing ;)
I've never done any of this before, but you explained it so simply that I feel like I absolutely could! Thanks for this! Really awesome, well made video!
A proper power switch would be very high on my list of modifications to add. Doesn't even need to be on all of them. Might also consider a master/slave model design, where the master has 3 power ports and a switch, while the slaves have 2 power ports for daisy chaining. The other update that I would consider: Digital control on brightness levels, so that adjustments to one can be auto synced to the other units in the chain, unless an override switch is on.
@@chlendimounir2834 it really isn't that big of a jump. Replace the standard nobs with digipots, and a means to adjust them if you want full on slave mode only units. Toggling between options adds complexity, but it wouldn't be a massive and complex circuit. Might even be a little easier if you use printed boards and oven soldering really.
I think they are great for bathrooms too, right and left of a mirror. Btw: Is it possible to build a mirror with a touch screen? I saw a video years ago to build a smart mirror from a TV but the lack of touch input makes it quite boring.
@@sirsundays I don't think you want bluescreens on your mirror. I would pledge for a raspberry pie/linux in the background. This would consume way less power. A motion detector can be used to turn the display on. You just need a way to get the touch-part of the display on the front side of the mirror and the display at the back. :)
Problem with adding touch capabilities to a mirror is that you would get smudges all over it. I've seen some people using cameras and hand gestures for these kinds of mirrors which might work better, or even some simple voice commands. Another possibility would be to use an IR based solution where light is shone from the top and picked up at the bottom, this would mean that you don't actually have to touch the mirror to get a response.
@@peterme that's a good point. I think an IR based solution is better. Maybe even visible light, to get a feeling for being eliminated by the light beam. Volvo is using that kind of "touch" screen in their latest models and it's working flawlessly
Absolutely terrific tutorial. DIY is often presented in convoluted edits, or over-information. This was right to the point but provided enough insight as to what's going on and how to modify for personal needs (CNC, daisy chain, etc.).
There's always a cheaper and easier way to build something like this. If I really needed a cheap setup you could tape it to some wood cut down to your desired size at home depot and just wire it up. Tape the diffusion sheets to some cardboard cutouts and bam you're done. Doesn't need to look good if it's not in the frame.
Just a side note to point out how important good CRI is: my 4 year old recently complained about the picture shew drew now having different colours. Turned out at the kindergarten table she drew it on they had a rather bad CRI light. So its not just the pros measurement equipment that can see a difference...
Kids have way sharper eye sight and hearing when they are young. The older you get,the worse you see. Also her brain is actually curious about everything,and they notice a lot of details us adults just glaze over and ignore.
I made a setup with the 500W LED from Yuji and watercooled with a 2x140mm all-in-one radiator. It's bright as hell and amazingly good CRI. Love taking pictures under it even bounced off the ceiling!
Noo don't put hot glue on the LED strips! They heat up pretty good, melt the glue and eventually burn it. I personally recommend 5-min epoxy, possibly high temperature one. Great vid btw ;)
10:34 - 12v power adapter but the amperage can change depending the length.... He could say which one in this build but maybe it is in the project blueprint, which you need to support to gain access ;)
Get a generic 12 V adapter with enough current for all the LEDs. I'd say 5 A (60 W) per module is enough if you're planning to power all the strips at the same time. However, you only need to power at most 4 strips, so 3 A (36 W) per module should be enough.
As usual great video and awesome build, but I'm not gonna lie, your first lighting setup was so much better than the second one. I think having a bit of contrast in your lighting is more interesting than the flat look you called an improvement. Anyway, love your videos man, keep being awesome!
diy persk my *** this is conquering all the fields of material science in one go. Incredible depth in every little thing, it's like jumping to the most nieche best quality method on every domain - pc, sound, furniture, lights, circuts....I would trou a hat, congrats. Amaizing spirit.
I love watching these videos like "OH MAN I COULD DO THAT" and then by the end im like "wow i aint got time for that" Too bad he doesn't sell all the parts premade and i just have to put it together.
Great video! Plan to do a set of these. Regarding your statement about adjusting size and disregarding subsequent measurements, all someone would have to do is use those measurements and do a scale calculation. So they really SHOULD pay attention to your instructions.
Hey Matt! Love your videos. You never added the diagram for the Circuit dimmers. Also would you be able to add in some files or measurements you used for your holes on the Aluminium. And I know you provided the SVG for the Arches, but would there be a way you could provide the measurements and possible SVG for the PVC brackets used to hold the diffuser. Thank you Again!
your videos makes me both extremely sad and extremely happy at the same time. Happy because your content is simply, awesome! Sad because I'd never be able to put together something this all by myself. Congrats man.
Hey Matt, some parts are missing from the parts list. Can you give us the links to the nuts you used with the nutsert, the power sockets and the acetate. Thanks!!
I was able to complete the lights without the wiring diagram as he shows all of the wiring at various points throughout the video even if only for a split second.
Hey Matt! If it's not too much trouble, can you drop the file for your CnC so that we can use to either route our side panels OR print them? I think this could be easily 3D printed, yeah? Great video, thank you!
The hardest Item to get out of the whole project would be the acetate. I've been looking online at my local hardware shops and on eBay and I can't find it anywhere. Do you have a link to somewhere you got them from online or did you go to a hardware store to get yours?
I would recommend using aluminium rivnuts instead of steel ones if anyone is replicating this, easier to insert and no chance of them reacting with the aluminium and corroding.
I like watching yuor videos, because it has quality content, neat and clean orientation, narration, explanation and smooth background music...... everything a pro grade.
If you take the .svg file he gives in the description, scale the width and height of the half circle endcaps to a width of 14cm, and then take the difference between the arches and the endcaps you get a thickness of 12.5mm or about 1/2"
Nice lights! I've made comments to other youtubers before about using lighting on their dark videos. Shoot, any light is better than none! These look really nice.
Matt I love your videos for a few reasons: -Most of the materials are truly cheap or high end -Your speechcraft is at 100 so it's really understandable 😁👌🏼👌🏼 -The fact that you use the metric system (duh cause you're not American) helps a lot for me (a Hungarian) -A lot of the DIYs are small and compact which is perfect for my house cause I want to start making TH-cam videos but don't have much space and I need a small studio upgrade reaaaally bad. A little twist will be needed with some to make it transferable more easily cause I'm moving in with a friend soon. Thank you for being such a talented craftsman and sharing your tips and knowledge with us😁😁 Ps.: Thanks again for showing it metric 😂 I hate to use a converter online for most DIY videos
Added up the cost of doing this and it's really not cost-effective. $90 just for 3 LED strips! You can buy a decent photo light kit on Amazon for the cost of making these without all the hours of work. It's cool but going to end up costing you more than just buying lights.
What potatojet's light comparison video and you'll see how even very expensive lights have poor color quality. These lights are about as good as it gets color wise and cost 1/10th of the price in the end.
thank you and again what a great video... i remembered the old laptop led screen diy used as a windows light two years ago i build like that one and it helped me a lot in learning photography, back then studio strobes was very expensive where i was, and lot of those old broken laptop screens lying around on our local computer repair shop.
Thanks for watching everybody! These are the photography grade LED strips: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575347517&toolid=10001&campid=5338215129&customid=&icep_item=182965299789&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
The rest of the parts are in the description.
Great video and project. But here's a thing: The shot with “bad” LED's has more detail and contrast. The other shot has more colour blending, so things ikke the wrinkels in your forehead disappears. Can you get the level of contrast and detail from the bad LEDs with the good LEDs?
rasmis to my eye the detail is there in both shots. The difference in wrinkles is more to do with the expression on his face. He doesn't have his eyebrows raised as much, so he doesn't have the same level of wrinkling. Also looking at the shadows suggest that the light wasn't in the same position, so there's a possibility of that effecting the visibility of wrinkles. In terms of contrast I can't see a marked difference either, at least nothing that I wouldn't put down to camera settings/exposure values.
All the eBay links just redirect to a shitty contact page.
I am missing the mention of the power supply...
make something related to ebikes on a future project please.
Not gonna lie... When you first showed the finished product, I thought it was something you bought and then modified. It looks SO well done and professionally made. 10/10
the cnc helps a lot in making it look professional.
Honestly, so many of his projects are like that. I really like this channel.
I thought the same. He is an genius!
I was gonna move on to another video and then he started cutting the aluminium sheets.
yep, so clean! his stuff just gets cleaner and cleaner of a finish
Do you know what I like the most of your videos? The metric system.... F-ing Finally!!
I like how you showed the way to manually make the component despite having cnc!
I also like that he has basic tools like a cnc and rivet tool for threaded inserts but no complicated stuff like a jigsaw.
No thanks Darkseid.
Darkseid No.
Frank Ricard - I do have to agree on this ^^
Alex, alex, mate, shut up.
Your Video Quality is nearly as good as MKBHD and better than most filmmakers videos!😊Big shoutout
What a compliment! I'm still a way off what he achieves, but maybe one day :)
@@DIYPerks You just need a motion-controlled camera robot (like mia) ;-)
am sure he is making his new motion controlled robot ... cheers #DIYPerk
I mean he only uses at a minimum $100K in studio gear, and DIY Perks doesn't, but the light is just as good.
MKBHD reviews products other people have given him, like a film critic. DIY Perks creates things from scratch. For me that creative step carries more importance.
The kind of video you can like before watching because this channels content is just that good
That's what I'm saying!!
Totally agree!
This is normal procedure for many.
@Darkseid
I'm going to dislike all of your videos.
Ya.. I kinda do that too 😄
That looks so professional!
It does indeed !
I don't know if I even need to say this because I feel like everyone knows it already, but your diy videos are hands down one of the highest quality series on all of TH-cam!
Really nice one, always excited for your videos!
Not to say you're wrong (because these are really well produced videos), but you should check out Clickspring. His videos are so incredibly produced, especially for an "amateur" as he puts it. For perspective, I'm subscribed to 150 channels, but I'm a patron for only a couple channels: this one and Clickspring's.
@@Hexlattice I'll have a look at it :)
It's all in the quality lighting...
@@diskross o
I am so impressed how much effort you put in your craftsmanship to create clean and aesthetic products.
Normally i dont comment, but i want to say thank you. All this DIY LED solutions are so great for me as a filmmaker. Especially the LED Panel. Thank you.
As a photographer I feel the same way about the LED projects on this channel.
your channel is disrespect to those who believe in Buddha, disabling comments does nothing to anger people more.
I have modified my version. All dimming controls are external using a 5050 DMX controller and added RGB Amber and UV giving me full control over the entire colour spectrum. 8 channels each. (Controlled on the negative not positive.) and made 16 of them for mounting on 2metre F34 quad truss totems with moving head spots. Gives the stage a pop of colour effect and some other uses too. 128 channels of computer controlled lighting. Used a bit thicker Al sheet
This sounds like an awesome upgrade. Do you have plans or pictures for your version?
What a bright idea
What a nice pun :P
i see what you did there
Did you just
Aye 😏
Shame on you.
Feel the shame.
I love how this channel has so many projects focused on just improving its own and others video production quality.
Great lighting tutorial!
How to make a DIY Perks video
- Use alluminum sheets
- Use good quality led's
- Hack a bunch of circuit boards together for your needs
- Have a nice soothing voice and good quality videos
I kinda miss the really interesting videos, the pc control hub, or the 100w flashlight etc. Now it's just as you said. Ledstrips, and various ways to use them. But still high quality.
Aluminium* lol xd
hahaha i lost at soothing voice
I freaking love videos of people making different light sources... find it very interesting.
you missed: Drill holes in your wall
Aren't you just glad this guy exist? Needs more recognition to be honest.
Great low cost project that will help a lot of photographers/videographers. Very well done, great lighting, perfect narration and easy to follow. Love the fact that the background music wasn't super loud but used in a way to eliminate the 'dead-air" silence in most other videos. I look forward to seeing more of these on your channel. Just subscribed after only one video. Keep up the good work and thanks.
Matt, All the fun projects aside, I find you to a gifted storyteller. brilliant work as usual. Thank you.
This episode: Matt puts more holes in his wall.
Hahahahahahaha!!!
lmao
Savage 😂😂😂
This is the nicest guy I have ever seen without even seeing him in person😍
I wonder why TH-cam doesn't have a *Love Button*, a thumbs up won't express enough how your idea here is so good Matt.
Very well done, very well done!
Wow. Color production has never... turned me on like this before. 😁 How illuminating!
I love how you explain everything in a very simple and understandable manner. Great Content, thank you for sharing.
What color did you use for your gel diffusion sheet? thanks! great video as always ;)
there is no color
@@bobanppvc the ebay account sells white, light frost, heavy frost and clear.
@@HavokBWR this is light frost
Matt, very grateful to you because you are giving away industrial ideas at a fraction of the cost. Tk you.
i think he owns an aluminium company
LOL😂😂😂
Thank you Matt. Your projects are superb and well thought out.
The way you build and the materials you choose bring a new level of quality to DIY building that no one else on YT is doing.
Good looking project! I love the emphasis on neatness you put in your videos. You might enjoy using a brad point drill on your sheet metal rather than the standard twist drill as it usually leaves a neater hole.
This whole build is great but what really impressed me was the 3 power sockets for daisy chaining. It only made sense to me at the end and I face-palmed so hard. Genius!
Don't solder the grounding wire before crimping it! Solder flows under pressure, so that means that if you clam down a soldered wire, it'll work loose on its own. This is also why you never solder wires before crimping a crimp on there.
Can you elaborate? I'm not sure I understand what you mean, and I'm genuinely interested.
There all ways someone saying "don't solder the end of the wires when connecting to a terminal" I been soldering wires end and putting them in terminals for years and it's just fine for home use just make sure you torque it down right so it is pre smushed. Now the Europeans are very picky about this though and there's no sense going for their heads when it comes to cost and budget. I can't just show up and spend a dollar each time I want to make a connection like that. I love the guys but sometimes they are overprotective.
For hobbiest grade stuff that isn't critical or high power soldering a wire and then crimping or screwing in a terminal is just fine (I've done it myself many a time). But for anything where reliability and safety come before cost or ease of manufacture then it is a no go as it can cause loose wires over time (imagine medical/aerospace/military equipment scenarios where even a 1 in 1000 catastrophic failure is unacceptable).
Sir_wolf Art You'd actually save money soldering a wire instead of screwing it. And I can't see how not soldering the wire before connecting it into the terminal would make you spend 1 dollar. You can leave it unsoldered or solder it afterwards, and you don't lose a cent.
@@GRBtutorials true that can be done too and would be stronger.
I don't have most of equipments do you use (specifically 3d printer) but I'll always like and respect what you did in your videos. 👍
What a neat idea, and a very sleek design. I'm seriously considering making it...
edit:
So I calculated the price of it to be almost exactly 500 Norwegian kroner. Store bought studio lights are usually ten times that, at least! Some that are less versatile are maybe 5 or 6 times as expensive. Man, this thing is winning me over. XD
For once I'm grateful to TH-cam algorithms for suggesting this video! This is pure gold. Thank you for creating this tutorial
I just came from the invisible pc and monitor videos and i swear this guy has a lifetime supply of aluminium hidden somewhere.
You never cease to amaze me with your knowledge and creativity. I think I will try to make these lights. Thanks again Matt!!!
You should be aware that solder flows under pressure, like where you've put solder on the negative wire, then tightened the nut onto it. This can cause connection issues in the future. A crimped loop connector would be a great option here. Otherwise, this is an awesome video!
I have NEVER thought ice blue and daylight LED strips could achieve something this fantastic. Great job, definitely using this in the future for looks.
Amazing stuff, another great LED project...
I made the 30x30cm flexible strip a while back and it works FANTASTIC, and that's seriously an under statement...
So I'm pretty sure I'll be making a couple of these especially since I have a cnc router at hand ;)
Big thanks for all the links to some good quality led's...
Your channel is one of my top 5 favourites and always makes my day when I find one of your videos in my feed, keep doing what your doing ;)
What a great project!
Your DIY workmanship is second to none.
That sheet of acetate is also opaque to UV light that is produced by any LED.
3 turned into 5 in a flash at 1:17-1:19
and without further ado was a lie 1:25 lol
lol an even better observation!
HaloBalla What do you mean? I saw that part few times... what are you referring to ??
How the hell did you see that!? I watched it 4 times before I saw it!
@Darkseid go away
I've never done any of this before, but you explained it so simply that I feel like I absolutely could! Thanks for this! Really awesome, well made video!
A separate on/off switch is nice addition so you don't have to keep plugging and unplugging or turning the knobs
A proper power switch would be very high on my list of modifications to add. Doesn't even need to be on all of them. Might also consider a master/slave model design, where the master has 3 power ports and a switch, while the slaves have 2 power ports for daisy chaining.
The other update that I would consider: Digital control on brightness levels, so that adjustments to one can be auto synced to the other units in the chain, unless an override switch is on.
@@RealLuckless that would be great but it will be complicated
@@chlendimounir2834 it really isn't that big of a jump. Replace the standard nobs with digipots, and a means to adjust them if you want full on slave mode only units. Toggling between options adds complexity, but it wouldn't be a massive and complex circuit. Might even be a little easier if you use printed boards and oven soldering really.
Chlendi Mounir it also means you can set your desired white balance and then turn it off the light with a switch to save those settings for later
@@AdamPrestNZ yes exactly
Best concept, execution and quality of any DIY photo LEDs I've seen, and I've researched many.
You make very nice things. :-)
Possibly one of the most informativ DIY projects I have ever seen. Thank you for your effort Mat.
I think they are great for bathrooms too, right and left of a mirror.
Btw: Is it possible to build a mirror with a touch screen? I saw a video years ago to build a smart mirror from a TV but the lack of touch input makes it quite boring.
Yes, Matt! Please try to make this. I've been wanting to make one too, but I'm not sure how to go about it.
Arent there these bar you can put on a normal laptop and then it has touch screen capabilites? If you would run this with windows it should work
@@sirsundays I don't think you want bluescreens on your mirror. I would pledge for a raspberry pie/linux in the background. This would consume way less power. A motion detector can be used to turn the display on. You just need a way to get the touch-part of the display on the front side of the mirror and the display at the back. :)
Problem with adding touch capabilities to a mirror is that you would get smudges all over it. I've seen some people using cameras and hand gestures for these kinds of mirrors which might work better, or even some simple voice commands. Another possibility would be to use an IR based solution where light is shone from the top and picked up at the bottom, this would mean that you don't actually have to touch the mirror to get a response.
@@peterme that's a good point. I think an IR based solution is better. Maybe even visible light, to get a feeling for being eliminated by the light beam.
Volvo is using that kind of "touch" screen in their latest models and it's working flawlessly
Absolutely terrific tutorial. DIY is often presented in convoluted edits, or over-information. This was right to the point but provided enough insight as to what's going on and how to modify for personal needs (CNC, daisy chain, etc.).
I'm willing to bet almost no one actually built these. People just want to watch you build'em, lol.
There's always a cheaper and easier way to build something like this. If I really needed a cheap setup you could tape it to some wood cut down to your desired size at home depot and just wire it up. Tape the diffusion sheets to some cardboard cutouts and bam you're done. Doesn't need to look good if it's not in the frame.
You have a real talent for design. All of your projects look professionally made.
Just a side note to point out how important good CRI is: my 4 year old recently complained about the picture shew drew now having different colours. Turned out at the kindergarten table she drew it on they had a rather bad CRI light. So its not just the pros measurement equipment that can see a difference...
Kids have way sharper eye sight and hearing when they are young.
The older you get,the worse you see.
Also her brain is actually curious about everything,and they notice a lot of details us adults just glaze over and ignore.
The is the most PRO Diy I have ever seen. I have some ideas now for making lights to use in my cooking channel. Cheers!
Early morning video, so much so I started watching, nodded off and subsequently dropped my phone on my face... Great video though chap.
Lol
Matt, thank you for your ideas and your kindness. May GOD continue bless you!!!
You have some good prodooction value!
I made a setup with the 500W LED from Yuji and watercooled with a 2x140mm all-in-one radiator. It's bright as hell and amazingly good CRI. Love taking pictures under it even bounced off the ceiling!
Noo don't put hot glue on the LED strips! They heat up pretty good, melt the glue and eventually burn it. I personally recommend 5-min epoxy, possibly high temperature one.
Great vid btw ;)
Glad to see you back in action Matt. Supporting!
Maybe I missed it, but can you tell what powersupply you used?
Great Video anyway!!!
10:34 - 12v power adapter but the amperage can change depending the length.... He could say which one in this build but maybe it is in the project blueprint, which you need to support to gain access ;)
Get a generic 12 V adapter with enough current for all the LEDs. I'd say 5 A (60 W) per module is enough if you're planning to power all the strips at the same time. However, you only need to power at most 4 strips, so 3 A (36 W) per module should be enough.
Well that helps. I tend to order one of these DIY power supplies from china, so I can eventually daisy chain the modules.
As usual great video and awesome build, but I'm not gonna lie, your first lighting setup was so much better than the second one. I think having a bit of contrast in your lighting is more interesting than the flat look you called an improvement. Anyway, love your videos man, keep being awesome!
This video is 3-4 years old. Would you still go with the same LEDs? I think there have been better once released.
diy persk my *** this is conquering all the fields of material science in one go. Incredible depth in every little thing, it's like jumping to the most nieche best quality method on every domain - pc, sound, furniture, lights, circuts....I would trou a hat, congrats. Amaizing spirit.
I love watching these videos like "OH MAN I COULD DO THAT" and then by the end im like "wow i aint got time for that" Too bad he doesn't sell all the parts premade and i just have to put it together.
Selling it Ikea style?
Great video! Plan to do a set of these.
Regarding your statement about adjusting size and disregarding subsequent measurements, all someone would have to do is use those measurements and do a scale calculation. So they really SHOULD pay attention to your instructions.
Can you recommend any RGB LED strip so you can build bright colored lights?
Bro hands down the dopest lights ever
Hey Matt! Love your videos. You never added the diagram for the Circuit dimmers. Also would you be able to add in some files or measurements you used for your holes on the Aluminium. And I know you provided the SVG for the Arches, but would there be a way you could provide the measurements and possible SVG for the PVC brackets used to hold the diffuser. Thank you Again!
your videos makes me both extremely sad and extremely happy at the same time. Happy because your content is simply, awesome! Sad because I'd never be able to put together something this all by myself. Congrats man.
Hey Matt, some parts are missing from the parts list. Can you give us the links to the nuts you used with the nutsert, the power sockets and the acetate. Thanks!!
Never seen such fabulous DIY project, excellent presentation and explanation of things.
Where is the circuit diagram located?
I was able to complete the lights without the wiring diagram as he shows all of the wiring at various points throughout the video even if only for a split second.
th-cam.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Fopen%3Fid%3D1k8SzvalR8EIzHwoxpPt_Jt0wdUiNNZgU&v=DhbMnQt14_o&event=video_description&redir_token=4XSfBMXMvvLn_9FPuUL5lq9EH5t8MTU5Mjc1MzkwOEAxNTkyNjY3NTA4
Sir, I must admit you are a genius inventor and it is a very useful project! Thanks a lot for such comprehensive video!
Hey Matt! If it's not too much trouble, can you drop the file for your CnC so that we can use to either route our side panels OR print them? I think this could be easily 3D printed, yeah? Great video, thank you!
Good idea!
Matt, you continue to stir my inner maker with your videos... no no, don't stop.
The hardest Item to get out of the whole project would be the acetate. I've been looking online at my local hardware shops and on eBay and I can't find it anywhere. Do you have a link to somewhere you got them from online or did you go to a hardware store to get yours?
you can search for acrylic or plexiglas too.
They’re on ebay...
What thickness did you guys try to use? I couldn't find medium so I got .003" and it looks to be too thin, could use two layers though.
Nathan Slocum i havent tried it, but looked for it when planning the lights i want to make
Thanks for making these fantastic & educational videos! 👍👍, Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
I would recommend using aluminium rivnuts instead of steel ones if anyone is replicating this, easier to insert and no chance of them reacting with the aluminium and corroding.
You have the cleanest videos Matt. Everything about them I love.
Looks like the end caps could also be 3D printed very easily for those with access to one.
I was thinking you could make one and use it as a template to follow with a router.
I like watching yuor videos, because it has quality content, neat and clean orientation, narration, explanation and smooth background music...... everything a pro grade.
1:27 "So without further ado, let's get to it."
"BY THE WAY-"
Exactly. "Without further ado, here is some further ado!"
I gotta say you are a crazy ass dude honestly in a very good way. Good job and I like the video and the way it was recorded. Thanks bro
When will the circuit diagram be added? and How thick is the LD PVC plastic?
I believe the PVC plastic is supposed to be 6mm or .236 inches or whatever inches is.
If you take the .svg file he gives in the description, scale the width and height of the half circle endcaps to a width of 14cm, and then take the difference between the arches and the endcaps you get a thickness of 12.5mm or about 1/2"
Nice lights! I've made comments to other youtubers before about using lighting on their dark videos. Shoot, any light is better than none! These look really nice.
You're a smart one, that was amazing.
Nice video and really professional looking lights. Thanks for the video.
Nice
Look like you LED the way with all these BRIGHT ideas.
Is the diagram a patreon thing?
Matt I love your videos for a few reasons:
-Most of the materials are truly cheap or high end
-Your speechcraft is at 100 so it's really understandable 😁👌🏼👌🏼
-The fact that you use the metric system (duh cause you're not American) helps a lot for me (a Hungarian)
-A lot of the DIYs are small and compact which is perfect for my house cause I want to start making TH-cam videos but don't have much space and I need a small studio upgrade reaaaally bad. A little twist will be needed with some to make it transferable more easily cause I'm moving in with a friend soon.
Thank you for being such a talented craftsman and sharing your tips and knowledge with us😁😁
Ps.: Thanks again for showing it metric 😂 I hate to use a converter online for most DIY videos
Notification squad!!!!!
akhu me!!!!
This is a high-quality channel with high-quality content. Fantastic work Matt!
Fun fact: this is the episode where his profile picture originates from.
Never noticed that
I love how you DIY is very classy and not ghetto at all! thank you.
Interesting that the Aliexpress seller decided to steal my video for his advertisement...
which one?
1. I like your content. 2. Very Very creative ideas 3. I like the way you filmed your whole video. 3. Awesome !
*perfect lighting setup*
“....and turn it into this...”
*over exposed, blown out image*
Yeah. I really love most of these projects, but I found I preferred the initial lighting. I'm glad to see I wasn't alone.
Exactly.
loved your videos. really noob friendly and your outputs are astonishing!
2:50 You borrowed a jigsaw? I'm surprised. How can especially YOU live without your own jigsaw?
9:26 Always attach the hooked wire in the direction you are tightening it, this way it will be more secure as you tighten it.
noted
Added up the cost of doing this and it's really not cost-effective. $90 just for 3 LED strips! You can buy a decent photo light kit on Amazon for the cost of making these without all the hours of work. It's cool but going to end up costing you more than just buying lights.
yeah, all the materials aren't cheap. This thing are good for specific solutions, but not that good for general use!
yet, really nice video
What potatojet's light comparison video and you'll see how even very expensive lights have poor color quality. These lights are about as good as it gets color wise and cost 1/10th of the price in the end.
thank you and again what a great video... i remembered the old laptop led screen diy used as a windows light two years ago i build like that one and it helped me a lot in learning photography, back then studio strobes was very expensive where i was, and lot of those old broken laptop screens lying around on our local computer repair shop.