It never ceases to amaze me the number of folks that watch this wonderful content,but cannot be bothered to leave a "Like" in appreciation...Really??!! Thanks for sharing, Tony!! Memphis, Tn😊
@@markturner5996 apparently if you watch on a TV you can't (or it's harder?) to click the like button? Something like that, never tried it as I always watch on a tablet or occasionally a laptop.
When watching on tv,I use Roku,which does allow. Phone,tablet,laptop will also allow. These guys work hard to make this content- is is really nice if we make sure they get the credit they deserve!! THX😊
You're a good guy Mark 👍 Ppl will watch hours worth on the regular and not like or comment. When I realized that I started doing both. Why not help the ppl you enjoy watching. Ppl do strange strange things
I'm working on a 1970 Datsun Roadster and had the same problem working a quarter panel. Like you said the metal is so thin it it moves all over the place, got it fairly straight but had to put on more filler than I wanted but a magnet sticks to in so that is how it will be. Thanks for all the videos I have learned a lot from you.
Another great job Fitz. I was streching a door w/clamps & porto power,salesman showed me how as little .005 feeler gauge would warp a panel he was right I didn't want to believe it.Keep up the good work.Thomas Edison said "Our greatest weakness lies in giving up.The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time". Thats what I get watching you work Thank you. Again Enoch approved
Pretty sure you may have watched another Canadian fella ( Carter auto restyling) who gets good results with the inch at a time technique. He also uses “ nothing fancy “. Lots of great content out there coming out of Canada 👍🏻
I love that you tell us about problems you run into and how much time you spend fixing them. It helps me feel a bit better about the problems I run into and how much time I spend working them out. Your comment about spending a whole day on that one section was particularly enlightening.
Shrinking: I saw someone DIYing a shrinking disk from a stainless steel pot lid ... These should be available at your place ... ;-) ... And the tips were great ...
I understand your frustration with the warp-age on the door. I tried to put rear wheel arches on my 2003 Chev truck. I warped the bed from the front of the arch all the way to the tail light. There was no room to dolly the panel because of the truck fender and the box are only 4" space. I have spent my spare time this summer straightening the box. A lot of first on this project. I had never Mig welded sheet metal, I watched you make your own patch panels, so I made my own wheel arch replacement, and then I ran into the inner fender. The only metal I had to make patch panels from was a 55 gal. drum that I cut open and planished it on the floor. Turns out that metal was not quite as thick as the truck body. My weld turned out terrible. What a summer this has been. Thank you for posting such detailed videos on how to doo body work.
This is a tough project. These doors are very susceptible to the heat. You did a great job of not only completing it but describing all the issues and the solutions for solving them. Tremendous.
I think the problem with the drop in the center of the door after the first patch was due to shrinkage around the weld. Some time planishing the weld with a hammer and dolly would likely have relieved the stress. Thanks for sharing your progress.
Those small pieces to do the door skin corners is exactly what I did on my 64 Corvair truck a few years ago, rebuilding the entire bottom edge. I did similar for the inside and outside rocker, plus that lip where the door sill goes. (top of the rocker / inside floor) Little did I know, that's exactly what a professional would do. Glad I am in good company!
That was a learning experience on that door. My mom had a 72 Corolla and I remember pulling a dent out with a plunger on it. Great little car. I called it the flying shoe box, because it would have crumbled like it in an accident. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
You do great work Tony I once watched a Scottish master do body work he did cut and butt but used a torch with a small tip and oxygen acetylene set at 5 on ace and 15 on the oxygen used old school steel rod and he'd cut out the rust and make a piece to fit in the hole and weld it in and he'd use a damp sponge to cool down the area and after he hit it with his little air grinder you couldn't even tell there he fixed the area best autobody guy I ever met and I've met alot of good body men
As always another informative video. I really enjoy watching you work. I ordered the saw you previewed and it didn't take no tie to get here. I'm pleased with it so far. Thank you.
Well Tony, I've found that as soon as I think I have it figured out, wrong! It still amazes me how much shrinkage the welds cause. Sometimes I'll dolly it before I grind to get the warpage out. For me, it's better to dolly short lengths at a time. I've never done 24g and don't want to. Thanks for the knowledge!😊
Beautiful work, surprised you didn't start in the middle of the patch panel above the ridge, then finish the end welds. As you said, a priceless repair. Regardless, excellent work!
Amazing Tony!! I've got a couple rusty doors on my '66 Fairlane that have me intimidated. I found a couple of reproduction doors, but now you've inspired me to maybe try the fix the bottoms of the originals. Thanks for sharing!!
@@hughblack3456 if you can get reproduction doors you have nothing to loose by trying to fix the old ones. If you stuff it up, buy the replacements. It's when you can't get replacements that it gets awkward. You really don't want to ruin those irreplaceable doors then 😀
I have to say that the pride you put in your work really shows and the teaching you do really helps me be a better weekend warrior to do things I don’t know much about Thank you for doing your videos the way you do.
I always save those old bed rails for stuff! Like you said nothing too important or structural but I’ve used them for legs on homemade wood stoves and making brackets for things and all sorts of stuff 👍
Fitzee, I learn so much from you! I'm restoring a 1971 Super Beetle. I didn't know diddly before I took on the project other than what I learned on TH-cam. I'm just an elementary school teacher who loves to poke around with her car. I have watched 1000s of videos regarding all aspects of the restoration and your videos are by far the most helpful in the area of body repair! I have 702 subscribers, the last I checked and, whenever I do stuff I learned from you I'll give you credit! Also, I just love your cute cat cameos at the end of all your videos! Thank you from The Old Bat!
Once again thank you Tony! Even though I found a replacement door for my 71 Catalina project, I wanted to repair the existing one. Now I've got my dose of courage!
Another great video, I like them all. I vote to do the hood ,make the whole car look fantastic. Your videos tell the story of the car better than a rusty hood. Glad that inspector peanut approved 😊 you may want to look into propane torch ,or Mapp gas torch that hooks to the small bottles with a hose and you have a torch handle on the end that is adjustable. Some plumbers use them . I have one that will heat to 3600 max . The bottles are readily available, and disposable. I looked on Amazon there around 40.dollars us for the torch . Might come in handy for shinking .
I feel your pain and frustration on that panel, I fought with a lower panel on my 55 chev. It pulled in all along the weld and I tried everything, like you, and finally gave up and re-skined the whole door, but luckily for me there are tons of replacements for those. I can see you've done a ton of these doors by how great this one turned out.
Ahh fitzee, I had the exact same problem 2 weeks ago with a bloody Dastun 260z rear door, which done the same thing to me, it took me 2 afternoons to fix it, I have been panelbeating for 30 years now, so don't worry about it mate, we all make mistakes, bloody cars,, he he, keep up the good work mate, from NZ.
You have amazing patience with thin metal, im frustrated just watching,, lol,, beautiful work Tony and I love the way you piece that together, looking forward to the primer on the rest of it
The shrinking disc from everything I have seen, works. A 7" disc will build more heat than the smaller disc. Wray Schelin sells the best ones and they have a curve on the edge making them safer. He instructs everyone to use a magic marker for the area needing heat to make the disc glide a little better. I have purchased the smaller disc because I did not have a 7" grinder at the time. I now own one and may purchase the larger disc. I have 2 fenders to work on for my '56 Chevy and one of them is decent but the other needs the brace and has a rust hole at the rear bottom plus a bunch of small dents all over it. I believe a shrinking disc will benefit me to get it smoother after hammer and dolly and maybe even a bullseye pick. I will be doing my first cut and butt on the hole in the fender, it just seems line the perfect place to use this process. Check out Wray's videos on using the shrinking discs. Oil canning come out easily with one and no torch is needed. The disc will make the metal hot so you have to learn possibly a new technique if working with bare hands. I bet for the thin metal, if you have a propane torch, it would also be another method. If PhD's were awarded for rust repair, I think you would be one of the few to get one. Love how you tackle something that intimidates so much and just work your way through it. I much appreciate your videos.
Tony after watching you fight with this door I don’t feel so bad! I’ve been reworking a rear door of a 55 Chevy 4 door. It’s been a nightmare! I have now one high spot in the middle of the door. I’m thinking of splitting it and hammering, and dolling down! Then welding it back together! Thanks the tips were good! “Until next time “
Amazing work! I did some successful sheet metal shrinking recently with a mapp gas torch. You would just need to set the door upright because the mapp torch will not work well pointed down.
Hi Tony, Beautiful craftsmanship, as usual 😍😍😍😍... At 42:12 till 42:35 you just know that the door will end up being perfect!!! Why? Because even with all the holes, seals, lower skin and glass missing or not installed, the door actually keeps the noise levels low when it is closed!!! 😃 😄 😆 😅 😂 🤣 😜... "Check it out"... Congratulations on this new milestone.
We have a rusted out Toyota Corona that's used for storing "junk" at the moment. The four doors are pretty well had it, but interestingly, that door handle surround is good on all four doors. I hadn't even thought about it until after your last video when you made that new section for around the door handle.
I bet you've never made as many templates in your life as what you've made when working on Crusty. I remember you saying in the past that you don't make templates! Times have changed and now they are needed.
I always pick up those bed frames! The newer( last 35 years or so) are cheap steel with lots of garbage in them but older stuff from like 50 years ago or older are actually good steel. I like them for battery boxes and for bracing inside a cab or car when cutting the floor out or channeling the body. The best part is they are free!
Hi Tony. When you started on that door, it was more hole than door. It has had an amazing transformation! I don't see any reason why you would have to change the name from "Crusty", even if there wasn't a spot of rust left on it. The name reflects where the car started out at. It's up to you, of course, but I would leave the name. Good thing Peanut gave the job a final "cat scan"!
Such a brilliant build its nice to see something built with skills and brains instead of bought and bolted on 👌 this is almost to nice to race now Tony after all the work you’ve put it better put a carpet and a comfy seat in it daily it 😂😂 ( I was joking of course lol )
I don't know if you will see this because I'm watching this video a day late. I'm working on my 69 Dodge truck, I cut out the rusty door corners and have patch panels welded in. The back side of the door metal was rusty, and it was a pain trying to weld. I blew a bunch of holes, some parts welded well but some were a pain. I solved the issue by using coat hanger in the holes, I placed the arc on the hanger, and it melted into the door, Wala ... Success. I can't do any hammer and dolly work, because the inside is not accessible, no cut and but for the same reason. I do have body filler, so I'm good to go.
It never ceases to amaze me the number of folks that watch this wonderful content,but cannot be bothered to leave a "Like" in appreciation...Really??!!
Thanks for sharing, Tony!! Memphis, Tn😊
@@markturner5996 apparently if you watch on a TV you can't (or it's harder?) to click the like button? Something like that, never tried it as I always watch on a tablet or occasionally a laptop.
When watching on tv,I use Roku,which does allow. Phone,tablet,laptop will also allow. These guys work hard to make this content- is is really nice if we make sure they get the credit they deserve!! THX😊
You're a good guy Mark 👍
Ppl will watch hours worth on the regular and not like or comment. When I realized that I started doing both. Why not help the ppl you enjoy watching. Ppl do strange strange things
“There’s a lot of work on that door” is an understatement.!! Great work 😃👍
Buying and replacing a door is easy. This is pure skill and craftsmanship.
Lovin' this little Corolla fabrication.
My long gone '78 900cc wouldn't ever keep up with Crusty here but what a great car that was.
I am speechless. The struggles to work on that door and at every turn you had an answer. Fantastic video keeping it real. Thanks, Tony.
Its So Beautiful now, I would be afraid of racing it!. Solid work Tony Love it. One of My Favorites Love Crusty!
I'm working on a 1970 Datsun Roadster and had the same problem working a quarter panel. Like you said the metal is so thin it it moves all over the place, got it fairly straight but had to put on more filler than I wanted but a magnet sticks to in so that is how it will be. Thanks for all the videos I have learned a lot from you.
That Datsun metal though!! I’ve wrapped turkeys in thicker metal :) :)
It’s an absolute pleasure to watch you work. You’re an artist.
Another great job Fitz. I was streching a door w/clamps & porto power,salesman showed me how as little .005 feeler gauge would warp a panel he was right I didn't want to believe it.Keep up the good work.Thomas Edison said "Our greatest weakness lies in giving up.The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time". Thats what I get watching you work Thank you. Again Enoch approved
Absolute great work rebuilding that side door. Very educational Tony. Thank you the tips were good
Pretty sure you may have watched another Canadian fella ( Carter auto restyling) who gets good results with the inch at a time technique. He also uses “ nothing fancy “. Lots of great content out there coming out of Canada 👍🏻
Im
Also enjoying real world D D Speed shop ….. FITZEE is my hero for teaching us the cut and butt !!!
29:40 - i have used worn out 80 or 120 flap discs ….. to create heat and works a bit to shrink …. Along with cooling with a wet rag ….
@@lawncuttingplusdeltaoutstanding 👍
I've tried that also, worked great👌
Lot's of rust in Canada, we have a lot of practice
@@hickeyskustomresto cool man …. Good to see the car culture lives all over the world 🌎 👍🏻💪🏻
Yee I can !!!
This is exactly what I need on a bloody cold day on the central coast of NSW
Great job Tony!!! With all the time you put into the rust repair/fabrication; Crusty's body is probably worth $10,000
Hey Tony, thanks to your hundreds of door bottoms I've been able to do two!. And they turned out pretty darn good!😊 Thanks for the "tips"!
Hi Tony, thanks for showing us how it can go wrong and how to fix it back up again!
Cheers 👍💪✌
I love that you tell us about problems you run into and how much time you spend fixing them. It helps me feel a bit better about the problems I run into and how much time I spend working them out. Your comment about spending a whole day on that one section was particularly enlightening.
Shrinking: I saw someone DIYing a shrinking disk from a stainless steel pot lid ... These should be available at your place ... ;-) ... And the tips were great ...
Great Tony!👍welldone.i struggled more or less the same way on an old Fiat Panda door,and i could really feel the same "pain"mean wile🤣🤣
I understand your frustration with the warp-age on the door. I tried to put rear wheel arches on my 2003 Chev truck. I warped the bed from the front of the arch all the way to the tail light. There was no room to dolly the panel because of the truck fender and the box are only 4" space. I have spent my spare time this summer straightening the box. A lot of first on this project. I had never Mig welded sheet metal, I watched you make your own patch panels, so I made my own wheel arch replacement, and then I ran into the inner fender. The only metal I had to make patch panels from was a 55 gal. drum that I cut open and planished it on the floor. Turns out that metal was not quite as thick as the truck body. My weld turned out terrible. What a summer this has been. Thank you for posting such detailed videos on how to doo body work.
This is a tough project. These doors are very susceptible to the heat. You did a great job of not only completing it but describing all the issues and the solutions for solving them. Tremendous.
I love Crusty!
You should now call it " WASCRUSTY " great job Tony.
great job, thanks for sharing . I like the idea of leaving the hood... leave the passenger fender too !
What a miraculous transformation. Great job Tony!
Yep, just as you said, "priceless'. Thank you Tony
You have the patience of a saint, but it looks great now.😊
I think the problem with the drop in the center of the door after the first patch was due to shrinkage around the weld. Some time planishing the weld with a hammer and dolly would likely have relieved the stress. Thanks for sharing your progress.
Those small pieces to do the door skin corners is exactly what I did on my 64 Corvair truck a few years ago, rebuilding the entire bottom edge. I did similar for the inside and outside rocker, plus that lip where the door sill goes. (top of the rocker / inside floor) Little did I know, that's exactly what a professional would do. Glad I am in good company!
That was a learning experience on that door. My mom had a 72 Corolla and I remember pulling a dent out with a plunger on it. Great little car. I called it the flying shoe box, because it would have crumbled like it in an accident. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
You do great work Tony I once watched a Scottish master do body work he did cut and butt but used a torch with a small tip and oxygen acetylene set at 5 on ace and 15 on the oxygen used old school steel rod and he'd cut out the rust and make a piece to fit in the hole and weld it in and he'd use a damp sponge to cool down the area and after he hit it with his little air grinder you couldn't even tell there he fixed the area best autobody guy I ever met and I've met alot of good body men
As always another informative video. I really enjoy watching you work. I ordered the saw you previewed and it didn't take no tie to get here. I'm pleased with it so far. Thank you.
Well Tony, I've found that as soon as I think I have it figured out, wrong! It still amazes me how much shrinkage the welds cause. Sometimes I'll dolly it before I grind to get the warpage out. For me, it's better to dolly short lengths at a time. I've never done 24g and don't want to. Thanks for the knowledge!😊
Beautiful work, surprised you didn't start in the middle of the patch panel above the ridge, then finish the end welds. As you said, a priceless repair. Regardless, excellent work!
Amazing Tony!! I've got a couple rusty doors on my '66 Fairlane that have me intimidated. I found a couple of reproduction doors, but now you've inspired me to maybe try the fix the bottoms of the originals. Thanks for sharing!!
@@hughblack3456 if you can get reproduction doors you have nothing to loose by trying to fix the old ones. If you stuff it up, buy the replacements. It's when you can't get replacements that it gets awkward. You really don't want to ruin those irreplaceable doors then 😀
That Carter guy finally got a shrinking disc! He was impressed. They are simple and amazing! You need to try one.
I have to say that the pride you put in your work really shows and the teaching you do really helps me be a better weekend warrior to do things I don’t know much about Thank you for doing your videos the way you do.
Dunno what time it is there on the east coast but here in BC its 12:37 am. Boy oh boy now i gotta stay up for another hour. Worth it.
I always save those old bed rails for stuff! Like you said nothing too important or structural but I’ve used them for legs on homemade wood stoves and making brackets for things and all sorts of stuff 👍
Fitzee, I learn so much from you! I'm restoring a 1971 Super Beetle. I didn't know diddly before I took on the project other than what I learned on TH-cam. I'm just an elementary school teacher who loves to poke around with her car. I have watched 1000s of videos regarding all aspects of the restoration and your videos are by far the most helpful in the area of body repair! I have 702 subscribers, the last I checked and, whenever I do stuff I learned from you I'll give you credit! Also, I just love your cute cat cameos at the end of all your videos! Thank you from The Old Bat!
Tony,
Without fail, i always learn with each of your videos. File them away in my hind brain.
Keep it up.
Once again thank you Tony! Even though I found a replacement door for my 71 Catalina project, I wanted to repair the existing one. Now I've got my dose of courage!
I absolutely love the foolishness of it all. Thanks for all the knowledge. You’ve given me the confidence to tackle a major project of my own.
Excellent finish, great job, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Great work as always. There are new tips in every video. Your top of my list to watch when a new video comes out!
Great work fitzee as always I must say that square stock sure came in handy....💯🙂👍🙏🏁
Another great video, I like them all. I vote to do the hood ,make the whole car look fantastic. Your videos tell the story of the car better than a rusty hood. Glad that inspector peanut approved 😊 you may want to look into propane torch ,or Mapp gas torch that hooks to the small bottles with a hose and you have a torch handle on the end that is adjustable. Some plumbers use them . I have one that will heat to 3600 max . The bottles are readily available, and disposable. I looked on Amazon there around 40.dollars us for the torch . Might come in handy for shinking .
I feel your pain and frustration on that panel, I fought with a lower panel on my 55 chev. It pulled in all along the weld and I tried everything, like you, and finally gave up and re-skined the whole door, but luckily for me there are tons of replacements for those. I can see you've done a ton of these doors by how great this one turned out.
Thanks Fitzee for all the good enfo i
just did the door bottoms on my 69 f250 ford thanks for the help.
Love watching you work on this car.
Ahh fitzee, I had the exact same problem 2 weeks ago with a bloody Dastun 260z rear door, which done the same thing to me, it took me 2 afternoons to fix it, I have been panelbeating for 30 years now, so don't worry about it mate, we all make mistakes, bloody cars,, he he, keep up the good work mate, from NZ.
Ray Shelien sells the best shrinking discs. Trevor from England does a lot of heat shrinking with a mapp gas on a propane torch!
Excellent extreme door repair!! You are wonderful at this stuff!!
Another great job.Keep doing it your way.
Sorry, I love the long videos. Could watch you solve problems all day.
Omg tony, that was tons of work, but you got it done. I can't wait to see crusty all complete and running. Great job tony
Lots of good tips here today Fitzee! Thanks!
Nice work, I enjoy seeing how you make what seems impossible, possible!
I’ve watched all of your vids more than once. Fitzee you’re the man 😀👍
You have amazing patience with thin metal, im frustrated just watching,, lol,, beautiful work Tony and I love the way you piece that together, looking forward to the primer on the rest of it
Tony the good part of all that thin sheet metal is the weight savings that will allow you faster ET’s on the track. 😉
The shrinking disc from everything I have seen, works. A 7" disc will build more heat than the smaller disc. Wray Schelin sells the best ones and they have a curve on the edge making them safer. He instructs everyone to use a magic marker for the area needing heat to make the disc glide a little better. I have purchased the smaller disc because I did not have a 7" grinder at the time. I now own one and may purchase the larger disc. I have 2 fenders to work on for my '56 Chevy and one of them is decent but the other needs the brace and has a rust hole at the rear bottom plus a bunch of small dents all over it. I believe a shrinking disc will benefit me to get it smoother after hammer and dolly and maybe even a bullseye pick. I will be doing my first cut and butt on the hole in the fender, it just seems line the perfect place to use this process. Check out Wray's videos on using the shrinking discs. Oil canning come out easily with one and no torch is needed. The disc will make the metal hot so you have to learn possibly a new technique if working with bare hands. I bet for the thin metal, if you have a propane torch, it would also be another method. If PhD's were awarded for rust repair, I think you would be one of the few to get one. Love how you tackle something that intimidates so much and just work your way through it. I much appreciate your videos.
Master class. Thank you for the video.
Tony I for one love these longer videos the most. I just wanted you to know
Awesome work . Your a true craftsman. Thanks for enlightening us .
Tony after watching you fight with this door I don’t feel so bad! I’ve been reworking a rear door of a 55 Chevy 4 door. It’s been a nightmare! I have now one high spot in the middle of the door. I’m thinking of splitting it and hammering, and dolling down! Then welding it back together! Thanks the tips were good! “Until next time “
What a job, Great work Tony!!
“Friggin” ain’t a swear word, even on a Sunday! Anyway, thanks for the video. I love learning from mistakes … other people’s mistakes!
What a fight. Great job!
This is just what I needed to brighten my day. Great job!
Bot.
A master class. If only I had built my door bottom on the truck instead of the bench based on one measurement. Lessons learned
One door nicely saved.
Hell of a lot of work but well worth it. Great video Tony.
Comment + comment + comment = a happy algorithm . Thanks for sharing 👍
Just amazing Tony , Thanks for taking me along !
Boy, that's a real test of patience!
Master Classes in rust repair. 👍
That was quite an operation and you did it well 👍👍
Amazing work! I did some successful sheet metal shrinking recently with a mapp gas torch. You would just need to set the door upright because the mapp torch will not work well pointed down.
Great success Tony. Beautiful craftmanship.
Well done man! I've learned a lot of cool ideas from you and I'm grateful!
Yes. You definitely are the king at this
Hi Tony,
Beautiful craftsmanship, as usual 😍😍😍😍...
At 42:12 till 42:35 you just know that the door will end up being perfect!!! Why?
Because even with all the holes, seals, lower skin and glass missing or not installed, the door actually keeps the noise levels low when it is closed!!! 😃 😄 😆 😅 😂 🤣 😜...
"Check it out"...
Congratulations on this new milestone.
Well well, inspector Peanut was very pleased as well at the end!
I'm speechless !! Here in Germany we say, i was a can. Thin metal you know!
I'm sorry Tony, but Inspector Peanut won't allow you to leave a rusty hood and it will yet again be fantastic content
We have a rusted out Toyota Corona that's used for storing "junk" at the moment. The four doors are pretty well had it, but interestingly, that door handle surround is good on all four doors. I hadn't even thought about it until after your last video when you made that new section for around the door handle.
I bet you've never made as many templates in your life as what you've made when working on Crusty. I remember you saying in the past that you don't make templates! Times have changed and now they are needed.
Fitzee you never cease to amaze me.
Absolutely magical work there Tony . 👌
Another awesome video, loved every second of it
Amazing amount of work and a great result as always, even if the cat doesn't appreciate it.
I always pick up those bed frames! The newer( last 35 years or so) are cheap steel with lots of garbage in them but older stuff from like 50 years ago or older are actually good steel. I like them for battery boxes and for bracing inside a cab or car when cutting the floor out or channeling the body. The best part is they are free!
You're lucky those pieces of bed rail are straight. I've got several bed rails and they are all bowed.
Hi Tony. When you started on that door, it was more hole than door. It has had an amazing transformation! I don't see any reason why you would have to change the name from "Crusty", even if there wasn't a spot of rust left on it. The name reflects where the car started out at. It's up to you, of course, but I would leave the name. Good thing Peanut gave the job a final "cat scan"!
Such a brilliant build its nice to see something built with skills and brains instead of bought and bolted on 👌 this is almost to nice to race now Tony after all the work you’ve put it better put a carpet and a comfy seat in it daily it 😂😂 ( I was joking of course lol )
you are amazing... i learn something every time i watch you
Great lessons. Thank you.
I don't know if you will see this because I'm watching this video a day late.
I'm working on my 69 Dodge truck, I cut out the rusty door corners and have patch panels welded in. The back side of the door metal was rusty, and it was a pain trying to weld. I blew a bunch of holes, some parts welded well but some were a pain. I solved the issue by using coat hanger in the holes, I placed the arc on the hanger, and it melted into the door, Wala ... Success. I can't do any hammer and dolly work, because the inside is not accessible, no cut and but for the same reason. I do have body filler, so I'm good to go.
Fantastic work Tony.
Awesome work Tony!