Using the angle iron with the welding clamps to straighten out imperfections @20.20 was great! I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos - thank you, it is truly appreciated!
These videos are amazing! I want to just say thank you. Just getting into body work they're very helpful. You don't just say do this, come back and it's done. You actually show us how you're doing it.
This is gonna be one of your videos that gets a lot of views I think. There’s a lot of trucks that need this same thing done to them and you explained everything very well 👍
Nice!!! I learned that lesson the hard way putting cab corners in my 63 Chevy. Just replace what needs to be replaced. But when you are starting out you make those mistakes. Thanks for taking us along!!!
So many think it is easy. Just do this or that all good. They do not understand true craftsmanship takes hard work and an understanding of the material you are working with. I do enjoy you always showing the good the bad and the ugly and the only way to get to the good is do the work. 40 plus years a journeyman specializing in custom work and I enjoy watching another tell em like it is. Shut up and do the work.
Great video on a relevant subject for anyone going through a restoration or rust repair. Watching/listening in my shop on a cool evening wearing my Fitzee’s Fabrication hoodie!
I’ve been doing some sheet metal replacement on my 1995 Jeep YJ fenders. It looks good once the body filler is sanded down to shape, but the metal work is a far cry from what is done on this channel. This takes a lot of skill to do the truly good work!
I can sit and watch you weld all day long fitzee. I miss seeing you weld with the old 140 mig welder. I saw you weld up a whole rear axle with that little work horse welder. Sad to see thet inverter welder you are using but I live with it.
I am just about to fix a wheel arch and was contemplating how much of it to use. I did use the complete panel on the previous side. I was already thinking maybe just part of it would be enough. Thanks very much as I will now only use whats needed and save a load of work.
Good morning Tony. Another great video. I have basically the same repair on my "63" Falcon. But I'll probably end up making my own repair panel. I haven't been able to locate a repair panel for the right rear wheel well. However, after watching your channel for several years now I feel confident that I'll be able to accomplish the task at hand. Thank you Tony. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
I learned so much from you. I think you have an advantage being left handed when using the grinder. i’m right handed and the sparks fly up in my face. I don’t feel comfortable when I turn the machine around because I like to use the handle
Wish this video was out when I put on the replacement quarter panel and the inner wheel well was rusted out this would have been a great help thumbs up 👍
Awesome work Tony! I'm really happy to see the struggles you go through from time to time. It helps me not get frustrated when I run into the same problems.
Hi! Great video as always! Some people are welding straight pieces of metal onto the face of the fender(angles or thicker metals) to keep the metal straight while welding. And if you want to further fix that you would need a puller(but that is another level).
I was wondering how thin that patch panel was going to be and thinking it's likely to be a lot thinner than the original panel. Might have been better to make the patch panel from 18 gauge to match the original panel which is likely 18 gauge.
Great information, especially for my nephew. He is working on a 87 Chevy 4x4 that has a little rust here and there. I just clued him in to your channel. Hopefully, he will find it as informative and entertaining as I do. Thanks for the help.
Thank you for the great tips and explaing everything so well. Im really learning a lot from your videos. I really like your explaination and methods of using patience and showing that even with patience, your metal will still do some wonky things. Thanks again!
Another great vid from da metal whisperer!!! I would luv for you for you to do a custom build ( combining two cabs making a four-door). I’ve seen a few channels doing this, BUT, none explain the steps/ techniques on doing work , like you do!!!!!!!! I have many of your vids saved and pages of notes to reference back! One day , after my 65 c-10 build I want to attempt making a four door 60-69 c-10 cab. Keep up the awesome content 🎉
Awsome great tips again.Love the honestly. Some people skip showing any difficulty .Because they are being a showoff. Im fixing up my mk 2 daimler.I found your cut and but really helpfull.
Likely an old Labrador forestry or wildlife truck. I had to do the front fenders on one back in the day that was rust free...but both fenders were completely cracked in two by the vibrations of the rough roads it was used on! Looked like they had been cut with a zip wheel! Wild what vibration can do to metal.
The upper crease in the repair panel is there for shipping purposes. It keeps the panel from bending. It is not meant to be installed with the upoer crease intact.
Completely agree, only replace what needs replacing, anything more is that much extra work. And the point is to save the vehicle, not replace everything but the firewall.
Ive gotta say, you sure have some finesse with that death wheel sir. Many a video ive seen you cuttin away with slim margins and you never seem to hack into somthing you didnt intend to. Im sure most of us know how grabby and un wieldly they can be at times. Anyway, the tips were good. As always 🍻
Nice tips! I used a very low cuted down part of a rear fender edge in the past on my Volvo 142, much more less work. We had always thin cotton gloves to isolate from the plate when feeling dents in the body factory at Saab
@fitzeesfabrications I was very young, like 20, the boss said we should use gloves to fel any defects on the bodys at the control station a pro like you I think can feel anyway
I’ve got a cross Canada catalog that my father used to order all his shops replacement panels from and I’ve compared the catalog price from 1989 and the prices are within $20 since then. Yet I can’t find rockers and cab corners for a 2017 Ram crew cab. That’s why I love my 87 Scottsdale short bed fleet side
I’ve done a bunch of 90s ford pickup cab corners and rockers that have rusted out. The replacement rockers are generally pretty decent but I don’t think I ever seen a replacement cab corner that fits right, the body line never matches up right so I always cut it in under that lower body line if I can and just use the bottom bit of the patch corner.
Another great "how to" piece! With the top edge shrinkage problem would temporarily welding a flat piece parallel to & just above the belt line, at right angles to the surface of the wing work to hold the surface flat until the patch is welded in?
That’s a great idea why put the whole panel in when you can just fix the spot that is bad. Less filler less welding, and less finishing work and you get a nicer finish. Very good video on fixing a small area. Later
41:00 - Was the warpage was much more than expected? I didn't see that coming until you put a straight edge on it. Is there anything else you could have done differently to prevent that? You mentioned the welding wire.
Tony I have a question, if you had tacked a piece of angle above the body line to hold it in place to prevent it from pulling down then welded in the patch panel then removed the piece of angle would that have stopped it from pulling down or would that just create another problem with the body line?
I thought about doing that after the fact. But I was not expecting it to happen there. But because it was damage above the live it affect how it took the heat. Think the angle iron would of helped alot
Here's an idea. What if you had tacked a piece of heavy metal just above the line before you started fitting the patch panel. That might have reduced the panel bowing inwards. You would have had access under the panel through the hole. Then cut if off when the welding is finished. What do you think? Would that have worked?
I had an 85 Chevy square body and I remember the factory body panels were about 1/8 inch thick or so, including the box inside and out. The patch panels were always very thin and cheap.
For those low spots.. Wouldn't it be possible to use the pop can technique? I don't remember the correct name but esencially you heat up the spot with a torch and cool it fast around so that the surrounds stretch, and the center would raise without the ability to contract back low as much. I'm not too sure if this is the correct way about it, but I had an ich to mention it, cause I don't recall seeing you do it. Assuming you're going to see this comment anyway.. Greetings from the other side of the globe
Im just getting ready to do some patch panels... fingers crossed, it will be mostly simple.. Big question, I bought a full fender for my Monte Carlo because of the sculpted sides... how much of it should I use? Is it easier to just line it up with the trunk and use the whole fender? (the body is badly rotted around the dog leg and the wheel well. Let know your thoughts please... I don't want to get crazy, but I don't want to have to do a lot of filling either... Your videos ALWAYS come in handy... thank you..
Scratch panels for quarters sometimes are better to use whole panel. Look closely at scrip and see if it looks same as factory. I like to find a edge to go to and come back a half inch and cut and butt it there. Those panel usually rap inside the door and up over the top lip of quarter. I don't use those overlaps as the edges are never same as factory
Fitzee, if you tacked a piece of angle just above the ridge would that keep it from dropping as you weld it or would it just drop once you cut the angle free?
Enjoyed your approach as always. However, I’d like to see how you’d have tackled the filler work after. For example, would you have used some fibre glass on the weld lines? How would you have built up the filler and how far into the surrounding panel would you have tried to blend it? My welding is fine, my filler work is crap!🤣
You blend till it's straight or till you can't see it. That's why some guys use a long board on flat panels. It's almost impossible to get things flat for any distance with a DA sander.
@ I must too much time on my hands. Another idea. On a long mid panel patch repair could you bend a flange at the weld seam to give it warp resistance? If it clears on the inside.
I just thought of an interesting analogy for this - just because you're OFFERED many dishes at a buffet, is it truly NECESSARY to eat ALL of them? Imagine how you would feel - heavy, bloated, possibly with an upset stomach. But if you were to only to take what was necessary, you would feel much better overall.
Newer panels are more expensive, because of two options. One, most repairs on newer cars are done in body shops through insurance... since insurance is paying for the repairs on newer cars, they shaft them on the price. Same as going to the hospital.. The other option is that they are still paying for the moulds to stamp the newer car parts, so the price is higher...
Using the angle iron with the welding clamps to straighten out imperfections @20.20 was great! I learn something new every time I watch one of your videos - thank you, it is truly appreciated!
Tony is a genius.
Wish I had done that one door ago
He's an artist/magician😅.
These videos are amazing! I want to just say thank you. Just getting into body work they're very helpful. You don't just say do this, come back and it's done. You actually show us how you're doing it.
This is gonna be one of your videos that gets a lot of views I think. There’s a lot of trucks that need this same thing done to them and you explained everything very well 👍
Nice!!! I learned that lesson the hard way putting cab corners in my 63 Chevy. Just replace what needs to be replaced. But when you are starting out you make those mistakes. Thanks for taking us along!!!
So many think it is easy. Just do this or that all good. They do not understand true craftsmanship takes hard work and an understanding of the material you are working with. I do enjoy you always showing the good the bad and the ugly and the only way to get to the good is do the work. 40 plus years a journeyman specializing in custom work and I enjoy watching another tell em like it is. Shut up and do the work.
Great video on a relevant subject for anyone going through a restoration or rust repair. Watching/listening in my shop on a cool evening wearing my Fitzee’s Fabrication hoodie!
I’ve been doing some sheet metal replacement on my 1995 Jeep YJ fenders. It looks good once the body filler is sanded down to shape, but the metal work is a far cry from what is done on this channel. This takes a lot of skill to do the truly good work!
I like the lack of intro and music. Getting right to it, very nice
I can sit and watch you weld all day long fitzee. I miss seeing you weld with the old 140 mig welder. I saw you weld up a whole rear axle with that little work horse welder. Sad to see thet inverter welder you are using but I live with it.
Thanks, Tony! You have given me the confidence to do my first sheet metal truck repairs
I am just about to fix a wheel arch and was contemplating how much of it to use. I did use the complete panel on the previous side. I was already thinking maybe just part of it would be enough. Thanks very much as I will now only use whats needed and save a load of work.
Good morning Tony. Another great video. I have basically the same repair on my "63" Falcon. But I'll probably end up making my own repair panel. I haven't been able to locate a repair panel for the right rear wheel well. However, after watching your channel for several years now I feel confident that I'll be able to accomplish the task at hand. Thank you Tony. God bless and have a wonderful day. 👍👍🙂
I've learned sooo much from you , if I can just remember just half of it I'll be fortunate , Thank you Tony !
I learned so much from you. I think you have an advantage being left handed when using the grinder. i’m right handed and the sparks fly up in my face. I don’t feel comfortable when I turn the machine around because I like to use the handle
There's nothing wrong with a little filler. Looks great Fitzee 👍 it last longer than most of us.
I love watching this stuff. I learn every video. Thank you Tony
10:00 Crusty sighting
Always learn something watching your channels
Thanks for the video and nice thought to include your shop buddy. I think it's good not to take ourselves too seriously 😅
Wish this video was out when I put on the replacement quarter panel and the inner wheel well was rusted out this would have been a great help thumbs up 👍
Always learn some thing from your vids. Thanks Tony 😁
Awesome work Tony! I'm really happy to see the struggles you go through from time to time. It helps me not get frustrated when I run into the same problems.
Love the dent puller!!❤❤❤. As ever Tony you make it look effortless. JOE
Another Good one! I always seem to learn a little something! WOW! I almost missed the cat at the last few seconds!
Hi! Great video as always! Some people are welding straight pieces of metal onto the face of the fender(angles or thicker metals) to keep the metal straight while welding. And if you want to further fix that you would need a puller(but that is another level).
Always a pleasure to watch Fitzee .
I was wondering how thin that patch panel was going to be and thinking it's likely to be a lot thinner than the original panel. Might have been better to make the patch panel from 18 gauge to match the original panel which is likely 18 gauge.
Great information, especially for my nephew. He is working on a 87 Chevy 4x4 that has a little rust here and there. I just clued him in to your channel. Hopefully, he will find it as informative and entertaining as I do. Thanks for the help.
Good informational video. I have one of these square body trucks with major rust repair. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the great tips and explaing everything so well. Im really learning a lot from your videos. I really like your explaination and methods of using patience and showing that even with patience, your metal will still do some wonky things. Thanks again!
Thanks! Love the metal work stuff with simple tools I do like when you get into the mechanical also.
Thank you
awesome video great work i learn so much too watching you work
41:00 thanks for showing the panel dip.. I’ve spent hours trying to finish it perfect (and never done it) glad to know how a pro with a mig does it ❤
Fitzee, thanks for the videos, I've found them helpful and motivating, I have a 76 chevy blazer that has a lot of rust and this is very helpful!
Always enjoy your videos. Thanks!
thanks for sharing your tips and tricks
Super useful great tips, very helpful to see it done by Mr F the angle Iron to help get rid of dent was great for all use DIY folks. 😅
Another great vid from da metal whisperer!!!
I would luv for you for you to do a custom build ( combining two cabs making a four-door). I’ve seen a few channels doing this, BUT, none explain the steps/ techniques on doing work , like you do!!!!!!!! I have many of your vids saved and pages of notes to reference back! One day , after my 65 c-10 build I want to attempt making a four door 60-69 c-10 cab.
Keep up the awesome content 🎉
Looks nice, you took a mess and made it solid.
The black marker and scribe is ingenious 👍
Nice clean job on an old square body fender
Another professional job done.
Awsome great tips again.Love the honestly.
Some people skip showing any difficulty .Because they are being a showoff.
Im fixing up my mk 2 daimler.I found your cut and but really helpfull.
Never thought that panel would be that far off . Almost as easy to make it from scratch ? Not . Well great work great job keep warm , thanks
Likely an old Labrador forestry or wildlife truck. I had to do the front fenders on one back in the day that was rust free...but both fenders were completely cracked in two by the vibrations of the rough roads it was used on! Looked like they had been cut with a zip wheel! Wild what vibration can do to metal.
Great video tony you need to show a video with some body work fillers on a flat panel like that square body if it was kinda waves
I don't recall seeing Tony do any bondo work on customer pieces but I am sure he does that stuff on his own vehicles.
Can't wait to see the Toyota on the drag strip
The upper crease in the repair panel is there for shipping purposes. It keeps the panel from bending. It is not meant to be installed with the upoer crease intact.
you are good man wish I would like to be like you one day. your cool man
Tony , a great safety tip i've noticed, you always cut or grind outside your body line, 👍
Being left handed does that but I don't like being in line of fire.
Excellent tutorial, as usual.
Great job very good lesson
Completely agree, only replace what needs replacing, anything more is that much extra work. And the point is to save the vehicle, not replace everything but the firewall.
Ive gotta say, you sure have some finesse with that death wheel sir. Many a video ive seen you cuttin away with slim margins and you never seem to hack into somthing you didnt intend to.
Im sure most of us know how grabby and un wieldly they can be at times.
Anyway, the tips were good. As always 🍻
Nice tips! I used a very low cuted down part of a rear fender edge in the past on my Volvo 142, much more less work.
We had always thin cotton gloves to isolate from the plate when feeling dents in the body factory at Saab
I used the cotton glove trick for many years. Hard to tell the edge of the filler from metal. The gloves did wonders for that.
@fitzeesfabrications I was very young, like 20, the boss said we should use gloves to fel any defects on the bodys at the control station a pro like you I think can feel anyway
The smaller patch panel that is used, means less heat and warpage too.
Keeping it real thanks Fitzy
Great video learned a lot ty
I’ve got a cross Canada catalog that my father used to order all his shops replacement panels from and I’ve compared the catalog price from 1989 and the prices are within $20 since then. Yet I can’t find rockers and cab corners for a 2017 Ram crew cab. That’s why I love my 87 Scottsdale short bed fleet side
Love your videos Fitz!
Thank you Toney. Good job and good tips.
Thanks Fitzee. The tips were great as always.
I’ve done a bunch of 90s ford pickup cab corners and rockers that have rusted out. The replacement rockers are generally pretty decent but I don’t think I ever seen a replacement cab corner that fits right, the body line never matches up right so I always cut it in under that lower body line if I can and just use the bottom bit of the patch corner.
Thank you Fitzee!!
Another great "how to" piece!
With the top edge shrinkage problem would temporarily welding a flat piece parallel to & just above the belt line, at right angles to the surface of the wing work to hold the surface flat until the patch is welded in?
Yes that would of worked if I had to tell myself it would of had troubles there. But didn't know till after.
Good job Fitzee.
That’s a great idea why put the whole panel in when you can just fix the spot that is bad. Less filler less welding, and less finishing work and you get a nicer finish. Very good video on fixing a small area. Later
You are the Professor.
Of course the tips were good. Liked the C-clamp/angle iron tool.
Plus, you still have the rest of that panel for another wheel arch patch.
Man keep grinding youlllll need to start over
41:00 - Was the warpage was much more than expected? I didn't see that coming until you put a straight edge on it. Is there anything else you could have done differently to prevent that? You mentioned the welding wire.
Master class on patch panels!!!
NICE WORK! The newer thinner panels are so much harder to work with.
Great! Cheers from Vancouver 😊
Tony I have a question, if you had tacked a piece of angle above the body line to hold it in place to prevent it from pulling down then welded in the patch panel then removed the piece of angle would that have stopped it from pulling down or would that just create another problem with the body line?
I thought about doing that after the fact. But I was not expecting it to happen there. But because it was damage above the live it affect how it took the heat. Think the angle iron would of helped alot
Looks great Tony
You da man 😜👍
Here's an idea. What if you had tacked a piece of heavy metal just above the line before you started fitting the patch panel. That might have reduced the panel bowing inwards. You would have had access under the panel through the hole. Then cut if off when the welding is finished. What do you think? Would that have worked?
Nice work as always Fitzee!
I had an 85 Chevy square body and I remember the factory body panels were about 1/8 inch thick or so, including the box inside and out. The patch panels were always very thin and cheap.
Nice work Tony
Great information Tony 😊
I feel like you were fighting this one a bit… I’m thinking you must be due a holiday mate 😎
Look at Tony using them fancy coach-builder tools like a slapper!
@T3glider ya using it the right way too!! Hahaha
Wish you were my neighbor.
For those low spots.. Wouldn't it be possible to use the pop can technique? I don't remember the correct name but esencially you heat up the spot with a torch and cool it fast around so that the surrounds stretch, and the center would raise without the ability to contract back low as much. I'm not too sure if this is the correct way about it, but I had an ich to mention it, cause I don't recall seeing you do it. Assuming you're going to see this comment anyway.. Greetings from the other side of the globe
as always great useful information! Fitzee
Im just getting ready to do some patch panels... fingers crossed, it will be mostly simple.. Big question, I bought a full fender for my Monte Carlo because of the sculpted sides... how much of it should I use? Is it easier to just line it up with the trunk and use the whole fender? (the body is badly rotted around the dog leg and the wheel well. Let know your thoughts please... I don't want to get crazy, but I don't want to have to do a lot of filling either... Your videos ALWAYS come in handy... thank you..
Scratch panels for quarters sometimes are better to use whole panel. Look closely at scrip and see if it looks same as factory. I like to find a edge to go to and come back a half inch and cut and butt it there. Those panel usually rap inside the door and up over the top lip of quarter. I don't use those overlaps as the edges are never same as factory
Fitzee, if you tacked a piece of angle just above the ridge would that keep it from dropping as you weld it or would it just drop once you cut the angle free?
Enjoyed your approach as always. However, I’d like to see how you’d have tackled the filler work after. For example, would you have used some fibre glass on the weld lines? How would you have built up the filler and how far into the surrounding panel would you have tried to blend it? My welding is fine, my filler work is crap!🤣
You blend till it's straight or till you can't see it. That's why some guys use a long board on flat panels. It's almost impossible to get things flat for any distance with a DA sander.
What thickness cut off wheels do you use for your cut and butt sir?
Thanks Tony, it's good in my eyes. Hi to Peanuts too.
👍💪✌
If you put a wedge under the crease while welding would it help the drop?
It might. Was thinking after if I welded the angle iron to the edge might work too.
@@fitzeesfabrications I just said something like that in a comment while watching the video before I saw your comment!
@ I must too much time on my hands. Another idea. On a long mid panel patch repair could you bend a flange at the weld seam to give it warp resistance? If it clears on the inside.
@@mikeman230 It might help, but probably not thick enough to help much.
Tony if you welded across the top first would that have eliminated the warpage?
@davehogan4776 I don't think so. That spot was going be trouble where it was damaged
I just thought of an interesting analogy for this - just because you're OFFERED many dishes at a buffet, is it truly NECESSARY to eat ALL of them? Imagine how you would feel - heavy, bloated, possibly with an upset stomach. But if you were to only to take what was necessary, you would feel much better overall.
Newer panels are more expensive, because of two options.
One, most repairs on newer cars are done in body shops through insurance... since insurance is paying for the repairs on newer cars, they shaft them on the price. Same as going to the hospital..
The other option is that they are still paying for the moulds to stamp the newer car parts, so the price is higher...
How come you didn't have to take the coating off the new panel?
It's only a cheap paint. No build to it. Easy to weld
😊🙏🏼 @@fitzeesfabrications
New wide screen video format?
Have been using the angle iron vice grip straightening for years. Brilliant minds think alike.
Did you give up on using the Walter flex cuts?
Yes. I finally found a24 fiber disk that does a good job.
Daily driver thats why i flange patch thin stuff is tricky ford's with rust inhibitor or aluminized steel just like potatoe chips 😮😢
Yes 🙌 👍👍👍👍