As an avid audio enthusiast (Masters in Acoustical Engineering from Purdue), life long wood worker, and (as of last week) MECP Master certified car audio tech nerd, I have to say you do some of the cleanest and most professional builds I have ever seen. I have had the pleasure to have worked with an extremely wide variety of audio nerds. Your designs are well thought out, well explained, and very well executed. Thank you sharing your time and knowledge with us TH-camrs.
@@arnoldsalazar5851 as the spl levels go up, for a given mass (volume) of air, it has to move faster and you are trading off port noise vs diameter. If the cross section is too small you will hear the air rushing through the port.
I build boxes also, I haven't started making any of my videos for TH-cam yet, but I need to. one thing for sure is I wish I had all the knowledge that you guys have when it comes to making and designing my boxes for my builds. I just finished a 6th order bandpass that I originally made to be a 4th order but I had to tweak a few dimensions and ended up with a 6th order for a single 8" Fosgate P2D2 dvc that sounds pretty amazing. but I wish I understood all of what you guys now and implicate in your builds.
I built a similar designed 6th order for a Sundown U-18. Total volume is almost 10cu ft. Tuned to 24 and 51 Hz. It’s sounds amazing and crushes the lows!
That thing turned out great. Building one of those is one of my bucket list items. Thanks for the inspiration and the real-world confirmation that 6th order is the way to go for the best balance of SQ & SPL
This is so beautiful. WOW. I've never seen a real 6th order bandpass box before. Interestingly, I don't believe most people are actually running 3,000 watts to any subwoofers. If you do the math, 3,000 watts at 13 volts is actually 230 amps. If you consider the diameter of the copper windings, they aren't big enough to support 230 amps. If you applied 230 amps to 2 ohms, it would blow up the voice coil instantly. Sound is an AC sine wave and sine waves cannot easily pass current through an electrical coil, due to the impedance (AC resistance) created by the AC frequency. "AC impedance" is why you can plug a transformer straight into the wall socket without it exploding, the transformer winding blocks current from passing through it, acting as a choke filter. The 2 ohm load on paper, is actually hundreds of ohms in operation, which is why the speaker doesn't actually see 230 amps unless you run the subwoofer below the audible level.
I have to disagree. I think you are comparing two different electrical systems. A home's electrical system is averaging 110/120 volts which doesn't require much amperage to achieve 1,000 watts. 120 Volts system only need 8.33 amperes to produce 1,000 watts. Whereas a car audio system is a 12 - 14 volt system, requiring around 71.5 amperes @14 volts to produce 1,000 watts. The voice coil is a lot more copper than most people realize, which is needed to maintain it's thermal tolerance and impedance rating. The voice coil does build resistance as it moves, as you stated, but no where near 'hundreds of ohms'. We in this industry have measuring tools to monitor these things. But great discussion; I like it.
Lol, I see we have a summer child. These subs really are taking that much power, but they arent doing it for a very extended amount of time. For heat to build, it needs more than just exposure, it needs exposure over time. If you only had exposure for a few milliseconds, it's going to build a lot less heat than exposure over multiple seconds or minutes. These subs are playing music, and as we know, it's not a constant tone, it's also not a DC output. This is an AC output. The sub goes back and forth, meaning the polarity switches over a frequency.
Finally!!! Lol, I have a single 12" Sundown Xv.3 and I have talked with a few different people and although a 4th order would be good, I've been told a 6th order will give me a much wider bandwidth for my truck. Now, my truck build has been everywhere from starting with a couple shallow mount subs under the backseat to gutting the back of my F150 XLT SuperCab and extensive sound deadener, electrical is solid starting with the Brand X 320amp alt and the Big 3-4 upgrade going to a D3400 under the hood back to an XP2000 and an XP3000 with the option of putting my other D3400 in cab, but I've decided to keep the 2nd D3400 in my daily driver that houses a single 12" U D1 8layer recone and a 2.5cuft enclosure, but back to truck. I had originally planned doing a blow-thru with 6 U's, or a triple enclosure as I have 3 all rebuilt motor up hardware and all, or a 4th order build with 4 U's. Got to thinking about it after I traded my SAV2 12'S for the new Xv.3 12 and it's seen only clean power and an hr at that. So, grounds got plenty 1 bed ground (changing to frame) so it's 3 frame grounds passenger side and 3 driver side for if I convert to Lithium once I understand it more. Anyways, I'd like to give it a shot building a 6th order enclosure for this beast of a sub that's itching to make some good sound. Thanx for reading and maaan I would be so grateful for any other advice or help. Right now I've got some birch veneer 3/4" which I'd like to double up everything so if the baffles 1.5" I'd like it to be 3" or is that all overkill? I'm about to get a good router and table, but have basically everything else accept a good circle jig I think it's called for the router. Please and Thank you for this video, VERY INFORMATIVE!!!
Also, I didn't mention what I had for an amp. Currently I only have a Taramps smart 5k Bass and so it definitely doesn't starve for voltage at all. I'm running 2 of the U's inverted in a TruSpec reinforced prefab that gave me a little bit more space just so I had sounds for the winter. And anything I do I tune it properly with the dd1+ I picked up. The Amp has a brand new output board side and Tiffany rca inputs since the second I finally opened and put it in a yr later there was a loud bang shutting off which I thought destroyed my newly reconed subs but thank God it didn't. I'd love to get a solid Korean board amp for this build and the RMS is conservatively rated at 2k, which anybody that has Sundown products knows they can handle way more with proper power and tuning. I'm looking for a good 6-8k amp for the future 2nd Xv.3 or whatever I jump up into next. Lots of work to do cosmetically to truck so this season it'll be the single Xv.3 12. Thanx!!!
The most important tip or suggestion that I can give you when building a sixth order band pass is to not oversize your ports. I personally like to build parallel 6 to order bandpass but I see that most people on TH-cam build series six order bandpass. Whichever one you choose just be mindful that the larger your cabin space, in relation to the manufacturer's specification, the smaller you should make your ports. And the smaller you make your cabinet space, in relation to the manufacturer specification, the larger you can make your ports. Cone control is what you're trying to achieve.
@BudgetBassHead I would be exceptionally grateful if you would like to say MAKE THAT CALL FOR ME! I am a hell of a student when it comes to anything car audio as it has been my passion since I was 14 and almost 3 years ago now is when it was reignited in a very serious manner!!!! A guy/buddy I have known now for 3 years is big in the SPL game, MECA judge and gives out some nasty demo's! I have learned so much from self taught ambition and with this specifically I would be honored to take whatever suggestions, tips, help, etc. as I want this Xv.3 12 to bang in the truck and I know it will, but other than "messing around" with sub box pro I've never truly built my very own masterpiece although handy with paint, wood, and making things look decent a direct front to back top to bottom build this will be my 1st so I expect to have 2 crap and 1 beauty being 3rd times the charm, lol. No, I will take GREAT PRIDE in this and it will allow me to get my wheels done again, myself and bed sprayed, undercoating and leveling kit for now. I'm tight on bread, but I always pull things together when need be. Hit me up when able to, Thank you very much big bruh!
Sorry for this very long comment, but I want you to ask something, but first I explained my - let's call it "situation". Btw, really good explaination of your project - how it works, and / or why you made this box like you made, and the result is MEGA in my opinion. I agree with you on that idea what you explained / showed about the simulator and designer softwares / tools (WinISD + SketchUp) even in your previous videos - it is highly recomended to use these to make a proper a parallel 6th order bandpass box, because they are maybe the most accurate / correct free tools for this, expecially the WinISD. Btw, I figured out something at parallel 6th order bandpasses - I explain it somewhere below, even I made a "test-project" for this, but first to simulation / designer tools. Nowdays there exists many other, even free + online + all-in-one + very easy to use subwoofer box designer tools, some with their own speaker database. One of those tools is speakerboxlite.com website / service. Using just only this one tool I made for my Monacor SP-8/150PRO woofer closed and vented boxes - they were sounding / working OK - so, I can say, this tool is likely usable for these types of boxes. I tried to design for this woofer (and for some other woofers too) 4th order bandpass boxes with speakerboxlite - I not built them, but the accurateness of the simulation results were likely comparable / as accurate as at closed and at vented boxes - so I can say, this tool is usable to design 4th order bandpasses too. On the other hand, I dont know why, but in speakerboxlite the driver's movement is comparable with the WinISD's results if I use the woofer's RMS power in WinISD, but 2-2.5x the RMS power in speakerboxlite - every other graph seems to be OK / similar. But when it comes to simulate 6th order boxes with normal net volume chambers and tuning frequencies - like at the box in your video, the driver's movement in speakerboxlite's simulations (Cone displacement graph) is totally wrong even at the woofer's RMS power level, in WinISD is OK - magenta and light blue lines in the test project below - I dont know why, every other graph seems to be similar to WinISD's... So, thanks to this issue in speakerboxlite, at parallel 6th order bandpasses I figured out something what works in the same way in WinISD too: at a standard 2:1 or 3:1 ratio bandpass boxes if the low-chamber have relatively small net volume too + is tuned very low, and the high-chamber is tuned super-high (200+, or 300+ Hz): the low-chamber works like a widerange but not loud ported box (I call it as "active chamber" because just only this will sound), and the high-chamber acts like just only a driver movement controller (I call it as "passive chamber"). In this case in my opinion it is OK to have such a high tuning frequency for the high-chamber, because on a sub nobody will play so high frequencies like these. Then, if we decrease the high-chamber's net volume and / or tuning frequency, the driver starts to move more at higher frequencies like the low-chamber's tuning frequency - overpasses the X-max even on RMS power, so be careful. The other thing is that the group delay increases maybe because of the reduced driver movement. See the red and green lines in graphs in the test project below: red - an active chamber like a vented box, green - the same active chamber with a 300+ Hz tuned high-chamber. If we have a little higher tuning frequency for active chamber, then we can decrease the passive chamber's tuning frequecy at around 150 Hz without passing over the X-max - the driver's movement increases a little bit at higher bass, the group delay increases too, but it can give few dB (or at least few tents of dB) almost on whole soundrange - in my case between 37 and 88 Hz. In graphs: blue - an active chamber like a vented box, yellow - the same active chamber with a 150+ Hz tuned high-chamber. Here is the test project: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/afd0a02cacbb92016973ec9ae019af467233ae54597180a4d0f9514dc82f2a5e/tab-info I designed the whole 6th order box by the yellow lines to show that it is buildable with relatively acceptable outer dimensions. My question: the theory what I explained thanks to that issue, in your opinion is OK, or it is totally wrong?
That box is amazing, looks awesome. When I started car audio I would often wing it with my ports and they would suck. Definitely going to check out those tools!
Can you go into a little more detail about the removable lid to maintain the subwoofer? How many screws did you use on that? What did you use to seal that portion?
Ohhhh thisss is what those HUGE PA subs use, I couldn't figure out why some of those enclosures had 2 ports and no access to the woofer(s). this makes sense now lol. Although, for my bedroom studio, I think I can probably get away with a pair of rear firing ported enclosures and be fine. These videos are hella informative :)
The things you stumble onto on youtube. Something sparked some nostalgia and I was reminiscing about my old 6th order I build when I was a kid. I loved the video! Clean, clear and to the point. Lots of good info in there. Make me want to go start messing with car audio again(I still have a old Phoenix Gold MS275 somewhere in the garage I could dig out...). Adding my sub and off to look through your posted videos!
Very nice.... great job at explaining. 6th orders are awesome. I’m working on a fiberglass 6th for 2 vvx 8s. It’s awesome when you get to the point to understand this stuff enough to build your own. Again I think you are on point. I’m just doing 8s to save space but also to demo and show people what a couple $90 8s can do on music. You know I was thinking maybe when or if you can get around to it... start thinking about 8s and do videos just like you have with the 12s. Skar has a lot now... plus there’s other brands that have killer 8s... they’re usually cheaper than 12s and depending on the box you can still get it to hit lows like 30hz. I just think there’s lots of good reasons why the 8s are a good size to experiment with. I need a practical set up for the most part so I’m always trying to figure out how to get as much as I can out of a system without taking up much space. Working at the hot rod shop was challenging as f!,,, had to keep it small but mean as possible. Thinking along the lines of budget, space, weight, output, and quality.... Skar has a bunch of different levels and options for different applications. Most old dudes that thought they didn’t want a sub... they got a demo and guess what? Most of them got one along with the door speakers and sound deadening. I’ve only heard ix 8s and vvx 8s. I think I watched a video back a couple years ago you had on ix 8. Lot of people argue over if the vvx or ma 8 is better. The vd is shallow but 400w I think. The sdr 8 and svr 8 would be good to test out for budget friendly but decent output. The svr has a bigger coil than the zvx 8 I think. But zvx has like double the rms. The new evl everyone is curious about. You do such a good job man I just think it’d be an awesome series. Thanks for the frequent video posting and quality thorough explanations.
Thanks for the input. You doing like you know your stuff 👍 I do have an 8 inch series in works. So stay tuned. I already got the MA-8 and the ZVX-8 The EVL-8 would be a great addition.
Nice clean work +1 Advice: when you design box for automobile you should consider low frequency rise effect +6 to +12 db at low frwquency starting around 50hz also called frequency resonance . next time dont wory about Wisd graph tune up to 60-80hz +3db.. your vehicle take over and equalize the low part
I prefer the graph for 60 Hz. It looks like it rolls off too early for my liking on 50 Hz but whatever your application is it might be just right. You can also play around with chamber sizes to manipulate sensitivity increases. So if the response going up 4-6 dB is too much, you can shrink the chamber.
Just a heads up if you're going to use plywood over MDF, you're going to want to use marine grade plywood. It's put together better than your standard Home Depot construction grade ply. Also ply is not acoustically dead which is why MDF is generally used over ply, strength be damned. But using marine grade Will eliminate some of the other issues that come into play with using ply. Love your channel BTW, really good stuff. 👍
@@BudgetBassHead mr Bass i am here in the caribbean Trinidad to be Precise i would like to see you analyze the Death box by Decware. its supposed to be a Tuneable 4th order box that can be tuned to your specific car.. it allows you to max out your sub. check it out here www.decware.com/newsite/DBK10II.html
Wow. That is a good design/build & video (even if at one point I would have lost the flapping fabrics in the ports as they distract from actual good listening once the visual proof of concept is done for visual purposes). I am glad to see that some good designers are going for dual vented bandpass enclosure designs (what is now more widely simply called 6th order bandpass designs). Back in the '90s, i was running a lab in acoustics and psychoacoustics in Calgary. A teen (the son of a colleague) came to ask me if i could do something for his car audio. He has a big american one and he said he would gladly remove the back seat to make space for any design i could come up with. I had some experimental drivers i did not care for much ( they were not up to snuf for the home music design i was working on) but i could easily recycle them for his car needs. Long story short: i ended up designing a twin isobaric dual vented bandpass sub for the kid. I gave him the four 8" drivers, the x-over specs and cabinet design (a multiple ply monster to hold such acoustic power at bay) and sent him off to play with it all. A few weeks later, he came back with all smiles. I asked him if he was really happy with the sound and if it played loud enough for him? His response, all while grinning, was that everything in and around his car wold shake and he liked that very much! I obviously had a kid more interested in bragging rights than music listening... And to think i keep asking people to turn down the volume to better listen to the music. :) Also, still in the 90’s, I have designed some cool sub-sat budget sound system for home music listening, also going for a dual vented bandpass “stereo” (2ch) subwoofer using small but potent 4.5” drivers. Upon having some reviewers listening, that little 30 to 80hz +/- 1.5db (F3 at 27hz & F10 at about 24hz) mini monster of a sub was way too often mistaken for a 12 inch driven unit. :) Considering the manufacturing target costs of doing things right with relatively modestly priced but good and well selected drivers, I was rather pleased with such “compliments” as you can imagine. Anyways, wishing you and all your viewers a good 2021. Stay Safe & Stay Smart. M :)
Excellent comment. I have also played around with smaller drivers for compact/impactful sound results. It is very satisfying to achieve a great result with such a small footprint. Thanks for sharing; your history and insight is much appreciated on this channel.
I'm in the process of doing a center console box in a quad cab using 1. 8in JL w6 was thinking about a 6th order box cause of the size constraints. It's a sq build not crazy. Just great sound
I loved my 6th order I had with 2 tezla 12s 2.0,but now I got l7 15 any idea what the best box for this sun ,it's going in a hhr delivery,and I still have plan to add 1 more oh and right now it powered by Zeus elite 3350.1
Looking to rehash my utility setup. Currently running 4 way active front stage plus sub 12" Want to put the 12 in this design and add 4x 8" in the rear quarters (2+2) Thanks for some direction....
"I am a Brazilian, a fan of your content. Could you give me a little guidance? Would the calculation of the front and rear chambers be added to the area of each labyrinth? Should I calculate the ft3 of the surface of the speaker to the output of the labyrinth duct? I apologize, I am using a translator! Thank you very much!"
Love the channel. Always straight forward, real time information. I'm about to rebuild my ported wall build and I want to do a 6th, but you dont see many parallel 6th order builds. What do you think about Parallel 6th's compared to a series 6th?
@@BudgetBassHead Brother, can you give enclosure and ports measurements of this 6th order Bandpass, front chamber 1cubic feet and rear chamber 2.2cubic feet, 12mm MDF enough ? Mounting baffle 12mm + 12mm, ok ?
Hello, I would like to know if it is possible for you to help me obtain the measurements of a 6th gen box for 2 pairs of mid bass tuned at 32hz and 74hz (PRV 8MB450-4 v2)
I have calculate with hornresp and get very low frequencies to almost 10 hz with a visaton wsp26s. it will not go higher because of peaking, so setup for 30 hz is not possible, I get only subfrequencies from 10 to 90 hz within 3dB
Should the port areas be the same for both chambers? Or should there be a certain amount of square inches of Port area per cubic feet of box space, making the two ports different sizes?
Funny I came across this exact video as I have been thinking of going with a Skar VXF 12 and was wondering if I can get great output and SQ! Thanks so much for this! My only question is if it's possible to fit this into my vehicle without taking up too much space (Honda CR-V)?
Dude, I give up! Looking that is. I have been looking for this small size subwoofer for awhile. Everyone has the same thing that is mostly wrong for me and my application. Which is a small 2 speaker + 1 subwoofer system for my office/ hobby room built within a larger shop with all my necessary tools for my hobbies. I have the large sound I built. Now I want the small great soung. The 4" sub-encloser that sounds great is my next problem. You just gave me the beginning of solving that problem. I want strictly sub. Suggest to me which box and how many watts to achieve great low sound at low to medium volume . Thanks poppa Keith. 62 yes old
It depends on what you're using it for. The sixth daughter bandpass is my go-to. It has great bandwidth and it's efficient. But I only suggested if you are trying to listen to a broad genre of music. If you only listening to movies then I would say a simple ported enclosure tune as low as possible will be your best bet.
Great science video Mr. I have an H2 Hummer and want to feel the sound pressure of deep bass. I'm not looking for competition but want to feel the bass pressure not just hear it. This is the equipment I am thinking of getting. Subwoofer = Skar Audio VXF-12 D2 12" 3000 Watt Max 1500 Watts RMS Power Dual 2 Ohm Amp = Sundown Audio SFB-1500D Monoblock Amplifier 1500 Watts RMS Box = ported Box. Maybe i can future-proof and get Sundown Audio SFB-5000D Monoblock Amplifier 3200 Watts RMS. If I plan to get a second subwoofer later on. What do you think? Will one 12-inch at 1200 to 1500 watts give me the Bass pressure I want to feel? or 1 15" ported box or 1 bandpass box like yours.. lol... the list goes on lots of options
Amazing job. Do you sell custom box in France 😂? I have a ts wx300 a pioneer and its ok but dosent catch low frequency as i would 😅. I will sell it for a better quality sound . Thank you for all these informations
Completely obscure question, but I'm nutty and just _gotta_ know: What would happen if you drilled a hole in your baffle? I assume it'd take the point of port tuning away, but could that also bring with it some efficiency between the frequency tunings? Kind-of like making the whole enclosure tuned for the sum of the two? 🤔
This is the best video I have seen regarding this. I have a serious question if you can. Can a sixth order box also be isobaric for 2 - 2007 Kicker 15" cvr?
Of course. But those subs seems efficient enough to not need it. Isobaric was a thing back in the day when subwoofers had tiny magnets and not a lot of motor force. But try it out and let us know how it comes out. 🤘
How far in are the baffles located? I'm trying to make this box but can't see, to find that info and seem s like it's an important thing to know so the chambers are of appropriate size etc. Thanks a bunch for the box plans!
Would these dimensions work well with an American Bass HD10D1 sub?... obviously cutting a smaller mounting hole for the sub, but would the tuning still be the same?
I just put those values into win iAd and it's saying the port for the 2.2 chamber should be 59" long but I see that yours is much shorter.....am I doing something wrong? I'm looking into building this box and just wanted to verify everything before putting the cash and time into it. Thanks a million.
What app used for the sweep? And man I'll never let anyone talk me out of not building a 6th order I had one before and I want another one but with today's technology I know it will sound amazing
Does it matter all that much if my ports are different sizes? Also, I've never calculated box volume separately from port volume. Where and what info did you get to lead you to calculating them separately? I've designed a 6th order and it'd be extremely difficult to get the ports the same width/height in both chambers.
Awesome build man, I wish I had the skills to build a box like that for my AB xfl, then I need to build a side ported box for my audiobahn immortal 15, quad coils running it on a hybrid rockford bd1000p running it at .5 ohm and it gets down in a crappy Pyle wood box it came in ,
can you help me with some measurements for my single 15 audio pipe bdc4 to build one of these ?! plz like as big as the box should be in total and the squares on the inside which one should be bigger I know I’m axing for a lot, but I figured that’s all I need cause you would know this space i need for the right air
Im trying to use the winisd pro to get the specs for the box for the sundown sa 15. It doesnt seem to have that brand nor the skar audio subs that you use.
I'm currently running my vxf 12 in a ported box built to spec. I'd really love to build this same box to get that bandwidth, is there anyway you could send me the blueprints to build it? Also, I just pre ordered the peerless by tymphany STW-350F 15 so I'm excited for that to come in the mail! I'm currently in the process of upgrading my electrical system before I try powering that sub. Planning on using the new Wolfram full bridge 8000.1 amp, should be good for 3,200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms 😬 I'd also like to build a sealed box like the one you made as well. Love the videos man very informative
As an avid audio enthusiast (Masters in Acoustical Engineering from Purdue), life long wood worker, and (as of last week) MECP Master certified car audio tech nerd, I have to say you do some of the cleanest and most professional builds I have ever seen. I have had the pleasure to have worked with an extremely wide variety of audio nerds. Your designs are well thought out, well explained, and very well executed. Thank you sharing your time and knowledge with us TH-camrs.
I do have a question though, do you think the ports are to narrow?? Only 1.5 inches.. just curious. Thank you
@@arnoldsalazar5851 as the spl levels go up, for a given mass (volume) of air, it has to move faster and you are trading off port noise vs diameter. If the cross section is too small you will hear the air rushing through the port.
I build boxes also, I haven't started making any of my videos for TH-cam yet, but I need to. one thing for sure is I wish I had all the knowledge that you guys have when it comes to making and designing my boxes for my builds. I just finished a 6th order bandpass that I originally made to be a 4th order but I had to tweak a few dimensions and ended up with a 6th order for a single 8" Fosgate P2D2 dvc that sounds pretty amazing. but I wish I understood all of what you guys now and implicate in your builds.
who cares
I can't seem to get my vxf 15 to load in winISD do you know how to fix this?
I built a similar designed 6th order for a Sundown U-18. Total volume is almost 10cu ft. Tuned to 24 and 51 Hz. It’s sounds amazing and crushes the lows!
🤟
10 cf total? What was the Cf ratio , I'm doing two 18" Teams right now
I made my first box on 32Hz after watching your video, it has been running for 2 years and is best for spl teaching.thankiu from punjab
That thing turned out great. Building one of those is one of my bucket list items. Thanks for the inspiration and the real-world confirmation that 6th order is the way to go for the best balance of SQ & SPL
This is so beautiful. WOW. I've never seen a real 6th order bandpass box before. Interestingly, I don't believe most people are actually running 3,000 watts to any subwoofers. If you do the math, 3,000 watts at 13 volts is actually 230 amps. If you consider the diameter of the copper windings, they aren't big enough to support 230 amps. If you applied 230 amps to 2 ohms, it would blow up the voice coil instantly. Sound is an AC sine wave and sine waves cannot easily pass current through an electrical coil, due to the impedance (AC resistance) created by the AC frequency. "AC impedance" is why you can plug a transformer straight into the wall socket without it exploding, the transformer winding blocks current from passing through it, acting as a choke filter. The 2 ohm load on paper, is actually hundreds of ohms in operation, which is why the speaker doesn't actually see 230 amps unless you run the subwoofer below the audible level.
I have to disagree. I think you are comparing two different electrical systems. A home's electrical system is averaging 110/120 volts which doesn't require much amperage to achieve 1,000 watts. 120 Volts system only need 8.33 amperes to produce 1,000 watts. Whereas a car audio system is a 12 - 14 volt system, requiring around 71.5 amperes @14 volts to produce 1,000 watts. The voice coil is a lot more copper than most people realize, which is needed to maintain it's thermal tolerance and impedance rating. The voice coil does build resistance as it moves, as you stated, but no where near 'hundreds of ohms'. We in this industry have measuring tools to monitor these things. But great discussion; I like it.
Lol, I see we have a summer child. These subs really are taking that much power, but they arent doing it for a very extended amount of time. For heat to build, it needs more than just exposure, it needs exposure over time. If you only had exposure for a few milliseconds, it's going to build a lot less heat than exposure over multiple seconds or minutes. These subs are playing music, and as we know, it's not a constant tone, it's also not a DC output. This is an AC output. The sub goes back and forth, meaning the polarity switches over a frequency.
Awesome way to show what bassheads need to know, thanks
These builds from Budge are always fun
Finally!!! Lol, I have a single 12" Sundown Xv.3 and I have talked with a few different people and although a 4th order would be good, I've been told a 6th order will give me a much wider bandwidth for my truck. Now, my truck build has been everywhere from starting with a couple shallow mount subs under the backseat to gutting the back of my F150 XLT SuperCab and extensive sound deadener, electrical is solid starting with the Brand X 320amp alt and the Big 3-4 upgrade going to a D3400 under the hood back to an XP2000 and an XP3000 with the option of putting my other D3400 in cab, but I've decided to keep the 2nd D3400 in my daily driver that houses a single 12" U D1 8layer recone and a 2.5cuft enclosure, but back to truck. I had originally planned doing a blow-thru with 6 U's, or a triple enclosure as I have 3 all rebuilt motor up hardware and all, or a 4th order build with 4 U's. Got to thinking about it after I traded my SAV2 12'S for the new Xv.3 12 and it's seen only clean power and an hr at that. So, grounds got plenty 1 bed ground (changing to frame) so it's 3 frame grounds passenger side and 3 driver side for if I convert to Lithium once I understand it more. Anyways, I'd like to give it a shot building a 6th order enclosure for this beast of a sub that's itching to make some good sound. Thanx for reading and maaan I would be so grateful for any other advice or help. Right now I've got some birch veneer 3/4" which I'd like to double up everything so if the baffles 1.5" I'd like it to be 3" or is that all overkill? I'm about to get a good router and table, but have basically everything else accept a good circle jig I think it's called for the router. Please and Thank you for this video, VERY INFORMATIVE!!!
Also, I didn't mention what I had for an amp. Currently I only have a Taramps smart 5k Bass and so it definitely doesn't starve for voltage at all. I'm running 2 of the U's inverted in a TruSpec reinforced prefab that gave me a little bit more space just so I had sounds for the winter. And anything I do I tune it properly with the dd1+ I picked up. The Amp has a brand new output board side and Tiffany rca inputs since the second I finally opened and put it in a yr later there was a loud bang shutting off which I thought destroyed my newly reconed subs but thank God it didn't. I'd love to get a solid Korean board amp for this build and the RMS is conservatively rated at 2k, which anybody that has Sundown products knows they can handle way more with proper power and tuning. I'm looking for a good 6-8k amp for the future 2nd Xv.3 or whatever I jump up into next. Lots of work to do cosmetically to truck so this season it'll be the single Xv.3 12. Thanx!!!
The most important tip or suggestion that I can give you when building a sixth order band pass is to not oversize your ports. I personally like to build parallel 6 to order bandpass but I see that most people on TH-cam build series six order bandpass. Whichever one you choose just be mindful that the larger your cabin space, in relation to the manufacturer's specification, the smaller you should make your ports. And the smaller you make your cabinet space, in relation to the manufacturer specification, the larger you can make your ports. Cone control is what you're trying to achieve.
@BudgetBassHead I would be exceptionally grateful if you would like to say MAKE THAT CALL FOR ME! I am a hell of a student when it comes to anything car audio as it has been my passion since I was 14 and almost 3 years ago now is when it was reignited in a very serious manner!!!! A guy/buddy I have known now for 3 years is big in the SPL game, MECA judge and gives out some nasty demo's! I have learned so much from self taught ambition and with this specifically I would be honored to take whatever suggestions, tips, help, etc. as I want this Xv.3 12 to bang in the truck and I know it will, but other than "messing around" with sub box pro I've never truly built my very own masterpiece although handy with paint, wood, and making things look decent a direct front to back top to bottom build this will be my 1st so I expect to have 2 crap and 1 beauty being 3rd times the charm, lol. No, I will take GREAT PRIDE in this and it will allow me to get my wheels done again, myself and bed sprayed, undercoating and leveling kit for now. I'm tight on bread, but I always pull things together when need be. Hit me up when able to, Thank you very much big bruh!
Sorry for this very long comment, but I want you to ask something, but first I explained my - let's call it "situation". Btw, really good explaination of your project - how it works, and / or why you made this box like you made, and the result is MEGA in my opinion. I agree with you on that idea what you explained / showed about the simulator and designer softwares / tools (WinISD + SketchUp) even in your previous videos - it is highly recomended to use these to make a proper a parallel 6th order bandpass box, because they are maybe the most accurate / correct free tools for this, expecially the WinISD. Btw, I figured out something at parallel 6th order bandpasses - I explain it somewhere below, even I made a "test-project" for this, but first to simulation / designer tools.
Nowdays there exists many other, even free + online + all-in-one + very easy to use subwoofer box designer tools, some with their own speaker database. One of those tools is speakerboxlite.com website / service. Using just only this one tool I made for my Monacor SP-8/150PRO woofer closed and vented boxes - they were sounding / working OK - so, I can say, this tool is likely usable for these types of boxes. I tried to design for this woofer (and for some other woofers too) 4th order bandpass boxes with speakerboxlite - I not built them, but the accurateness of the simulation results were likely comparable / as accurate as at closed and at vented boxes - so I can say, this tool is usable to design 4th order bandpasses too. On the other hand, I dont know why, but in speakerboxlite the driver's movement is comparable with the WinISD's results if I use the woofer's RMS power in WinISD, but 2-2.5x the RMS power in speakerboxlite - every other graph seems to be OK / similar.
But when it comes to simulate 6th order boxes with normal net volume chambers and tuning frequencies - like at the box in your video, the driver's movement in speakerboxlite's simulations (Cone displacement graph) is totally wrong even at the woofer's RMS power level, in WinISD is OK - magenta and light blue lines in the test project below - I dont know why, every other graph seems to be similar to WinISD's...
So, thanks to this issue in speakerboxlite, at parallel 6th order bandpasses I figured out something what works in the same way in WinISD too: at a standard 2:1 or 3:1 ratio bandpass boxes if the low-chamber have relatively small net volume too + is tuned very low, and the high-chamber is tuned super-high (200+, or 300+ Hz): the low-chamber works like a widerange but not loud ported box (I call it as "active chamber" because just only this will sound), and the high-chamber acts like just only a driver movement controller (I call it as "passive chamber"). In this case in my opinion it is OK to have such a high tuning frequency for the high-chamber, because on a sub nobody will play so high frequencies like these. Then, if we decrease the high-chamber's net volume and / or tuning frequency, the driver starts to move more at higher frequencies like the low-chamber's tuning frequency - overpasses the X-max even on RMS power, so be careful. The other thing is that the group delay increases maybe because of the reduced driver movement. See the red and green lines in graphs in the test project below: red - an active chamber like a vented box, green - the same active chamber with a 300+ Hz tuned high-chamber.
If we have a little higher tuning frequency for active chamber, then we can decrease the passive chamber's tuning frequecy at around 150 Hz without passing over the X-max - the driver's movement increases a little bit at higher bass, the group delay increases too, but it can give few dB (or at least few tents of dB) almost on whole soundrange - in my case between 37 and 88 Hz. In graphs: blue - an active chamber like a vented box, yellow - the same active chamber with a 150+ Hz tuned high-chamber.
Here is the test project: speakerboxlite.com/project-info/afd0a02cacbb92016973ec9ae019af467233ae54597180a4d0f9514dc82f2a5e/tab-info
I designed the whole 6th order box by the yellow lines to show that it is buildable with relatively acceptable outer dimensions. My question: the theory what I explained thanks to that issue, in your opinion is OK, or it is totally wrong?
That box is amazing, looks awesome. When I started car audio I would often wing it with my ports and they would suck. Definitely going to check out those tools!
Hey bro man I wanna tell you I been watching your videos for a while now. Your awesome please keep up the great content I really do appreciate it
Thanks. That means more than you may know 👍
Skullcandy buds are hitting hard! I love the range of lows this box is producing.
i have the same but i got them free with my crushers anc haha
Can you go into a little more detail about the removable lid to maintain the subwoofer? How many screws did you use on that? What did you use to seal that portion?
the infrasonics in my headset were bananas!! that shark fin was swimmin'!
Ohhhh thisss is what those HUGE PA subs use, I couldn't figure out why some of those enclosures had 2 ports and no access to the woofer(s). this makes sense now lol. Although, for my bedroom studio, I think I can probably get away with a pair of rear firing ported enclosures and be fine. These videos are hella informative :)
incase anyone is watching in '22, use cutlist optimizer to plan out your cuts. Really saves material.
props on the very well done video. I like your format. nice to see all the specs scrolling on the side. thanks for the content you're putting out.
Thanks for the compliment ✌️
The things you stumble onto on youtube. Something sparked some nostalgia and I was reminiscing about my old 6th order I build when I was a kid. I loved the video! Clean, clear and to the point. Lots of good info in there. Make me want to go start messing with car audio again(I still have a old Phoenix Gold MS275 somewhere in the garage I could dig out...). Adding my sub and off to look through your posted videos!
Very nice.... great job at explaining. 6th orders are awesome. I’m working on a fiberglass 6th for 2 vvx 8s. It’s awesome when you get to the point to understand this stuff enough to build your own. Again I think you are on point. I’m just doing 8s to save space but also to demo and show people what a couple $90 8s can do on music. You know I was thinking maybe when or if you can get around to it... start thinking about 8s and do videos just like you have with the 12s. Skar has a lot now... plus there’s other brands that have killer 8s... they’re usually cheaper than 12s and depending on the box you can still get it to hit lows like 30hz. I just think there’s lots of good reasons why the 8s are a good size to experiment with. I need a practical set up for the most part so I’m always trying to figure out how to get as much as I can out of a system without taking up much space. Working at the hot rod shop was challenging as f!,,, had to keep it small but mean as possible. Thinking along the lines of budget, space, weight, output, and quality.... Skar has a bunch of different levels and options for different applications. Most old dudes that thought they didn’t want a sub... they got a demo and guess what? Most of them got one along with the door speakers and sound deadening. I’ve only heard ix 8s and vvx 8s. I think I watched a video back a couple years ago you had on ix 8. Lot of people argue over if the vvx or ma 8 is better. The vd is shallow but 400w I think. The sdr 8 and svr 8 would be good to test out for budget friendly but decent output. The svr has a bigger coil than the zvx 8 I think. But zvx has like double the rms. The new evl everyone is curious about. You do such a good job man I just think it’d be an awesome series. Thanks for the frequent video posting and quality thorough explanations.
Thanks for the input. You doing like you know your stuff 👍 I do have an 8 inch series in works. So stay tuned. I already got the MA-8 and the ZVX-8 The EVL-8 would be a great addition.
Nice clean work +1
Advice:
when you design box for automobile you should consider low frequency rise effect +6 to +12 db at low frwquency starting around 50hz also called frequency resonance .
next time dont wory about Wisd graph tune up to 60-80hz +3db.. your vehicle take over and equalize the low part
I prefer the graph for 60 Hz. It looks like it rolls off too early for my liking on 50 Hz but whatever your application is it might be just right. You can also play around with chamber sizes to manipulate sensitivity increases. So if the response going up 4-6 dB is too much, you can shrink the chamber.
Just a heads up if you're going to use plywood over MDF, you're going to want to use marine grade plywood. It's put together better than your standard Home Depot construction grade ply. Also ply is not acoustically dead which is why MDF is generally used over ply, strength be damned. But using marine grade Will eliminate some of the other issues that come into play with using ply.
Love your channel BTW, really good stuff. 👍
I just found your channel yesterday, I love it. Any chance of doing a winisd tutorial video?
If more people request it.. sure 👍
I second that
What's a winisd??...
Speaker box designing software.
@@BudgetBassHead mr Bass i am here in the caribbean Trinidad to be Precise i would like to see you analyze the Death box by Decware. its supposed to be a Tuneable 4th order box that can be tuned to your specific car.. it allows you to max out your sub.
check it out here www.decware.com/newsite/DBK10II.html
I love these videos. you've inspired me to build some boxes. I have two 6.5s I'd love to throw in a band pass
this was the video i needed to see... the performance of the dual chambers separately...
I had seal box 2 12s 25 years ago and it was loudest in town. Just one schanider amp runing 6s 6’9s and two 12s
Wow.
That is a good design/build & video (even if at one point I would have lost the flapping fabrics in the ports as they distract from actual good listening once the visual proof of concept is done for visual purposes).
I am glad to see that some good designers are going for dual vented bandpass enclosure designs (what is now more widely simply called 6th order bandpass designs).
Back in the '90s, i was running a lab in acoustics and psychoacoustics in Calgary.
A teen (the son of a colleague) came to ask me if i could do something for his car audio.
He has a big american one and he said he would gladly remove the back seat to make space for any design i could come up with. I had some experimental drivers i did not care for much ( they were not up to snuf for the home music design i was working on) but i could easily recycle them for his car needs. Long story short: i ended up designing a twin isobaric dual vented bandpass sub for the kid. I gave him the four 8" drivers, the x-over specs and cabinet design (a multiple ply monster to hold such acoustic power at bay) and sent him off to play with it all. A few weeks later, he came back with all smiles. I asked him if he was really happy with the sound and if it played loud enough for him? His response, all while grinning, was that everything in and around his car wold shake and he liked that very much! I obviously had a kid more interested in bragging rights than music listening... And to think i keep asking people to turn down the volume to better listen to the music. :)
Also, still in the 90’s, I have designed some cool sub-sat budget sound system for home music listening, also going for a dual vented bandpass “stereo” (2ch) subwoofer using small but potent 4.5” drivers. Upon having some reviewers listening, that little 30 to 80hz +/- 1.5db (F3 at 27hz & F10 at about 24hz) mini monster of a sub was way too often mistaken for a 12 inch driven unit. :)
Considering the manufacturing target costs of doing things right with relatively modestly priced but good and well selected drivers, I was rather pleased with such “compliments” as you can imagine.
Anyways, wishing you and all your viewers a good 2021.
Stay Safe & Stay Smart.
M :)
Excellent comment. I have also played around with smaller drivers for compact/impactful sound results. It is very satisfying to achieve a great result with such a small footprint. Thanks for sharing; your history and insight is much appreciated on this channel.
I'm in the process of doing a center console box in a quad cab using 1. 8in JL w6 was thinking about a 6th order box cause of the size constraints. It's a sq build not crazy. Just great sound
Agree.... best of both worlds.
Yep. I love'em.
Really good. Smooth bass - strong.. Considering making this but I got 12'' Eminence rubber surround so not sure if I can calculate it properly 😌
Wow it hits at such a wide range of frequencies. 30 50 seems like a great tuning
Yep. I love it. 😁
That thing sounds good. Great build bro.
Thanks 👍
Hello was wondering if you could get back to me about designing 6th order box for myself? I don't have the software you have to do it. Thanks
My ideal build would be a sixth order with a 12, a pair of 6.5 for the mid bass, and a good pair of components to make up a 4 way system.
Sounds unique
I loved my 6th order I had with 2 tezla 12s 2.0,but now I got l7 15 any idea what the best box for this sun ,it's going in a hhr delivery,and I still have plan to add 1 more oh and right now it powered by Zeus elite 3350.1
HELL YEAH!! Glad we on the same page. So 40ish max Hz
Yes we are
Looking to rehash my utility setup. Currently running 4 way active front stage plus sub 12"
Want to put the 12 in this design and add 4x 8" in the rear quarters (2+2)
Thanks for some direction....
What do you recommend for more musical, like stuff with guitars 🎸 and vocals?
Beautiful looking box
Just found u today pimp, your very informative, and to spec, thank u brother 🙏 definitely subscribing,
Thanks for the support 💯
"I am a Brazilian, a fan of your content. Could you give me a little guidance?
Would the calculation of the front and rear chambers be added to the area of each labyrinth? Should I calculate the ft3 of the surface of the speaker to the output of the labyrinth duct? I apologize, I am using a translator! Thank you very much!"
Love the channel. Always straight forward, real time information. I'm about to rebuild my ported wall build and I want to do a 6th, but you dont see many parallel 6th order builds. What do you think about Parallel 6th's compared to a series 6th?
I've only built series 6 order bass reflex I've never built a series bandpass. But I would assume that the outcome would be the same
@@BudgetBassHead Thanks.
@@BudgetBassHead Brother, can you give enclosure and ports measurements of this 6th order Bandpass, front chamber 1cubic feet and rear chamber 2.2cubic feet, 12mm MDF enough ? Mounting baffle 12mm + 12mm, ok ?
Very nice!! Thinking I'll take a shoot at a 6th order!!
Let us know how it turns out
@@BudgetBassHead will do!!!
@@danielanderson8001 did you ever end up making the box?
@@gagedoble2843 not yet but I'm going to get to it soon! Got my sub so bout ready
Hello, I would like to know if it is possible for you to help me obtain the measurements of a 6th gen box for 2 pairs of mid bass tuned at 32hz and 74hz (PRV 8MB450-4 v2)
Thanks very accurate guide. Really Appreciate the 3d 10/10
Glad it was helpful!
What app were you using to do frequency sweep
Nice !! How would the EVL perform in that box ?? Don’t they use similar airspace??
I have no doubt it would sound good
Question, can you use plexiglass on your builds? (To showcase speaker) Or do you not recommend it? Just curious. Thanks for sharing!
Only if it is thick enough. The plexiglass in this video is for demo purposes only
I have calculate with hornresp and get very low frequencies to almost 10 hz with a visaton wsp26s. it will not go higher because of peaking, so setup for 30 hz is not possible, I get only subfrequencies from 10 to 90 hz within 3dB
How much would you charge to design a 6th order band pass for a sundown NSV4 12? I am looking to building one to fit in the trunk of my Sonata.
I bought Sony XS-NW12002 , can I use this type of box? Please suggest me bro!!
Should the port areas be the same for both chambers? Or should there be a certain amount of square inches of Port area per cubic feet of box space, making the two ports different sizes?
That sounds good the way it should
So..a 6Th Order 15inch driver @ 30hz and 90hz? Your thoughts?
Funny I came across this exact video as I have been thinking of going with a Skar VXF 12 and was wondering if I can get great output and SQ! Thanks so much for this! My only question is if it's possible to fit this into my vehicle without taking up too much space (Honda CR-V)?
i was thinking of making one of theese just with isobaric drivers to hopefullt fit it in a smaller spot
Dude, I give up! Looking that is. I have been looking for this small size subwoofer for awhile. Everyone has the same thing that is mostly wrong for me and my application. Which is a small 2 speaker + 1 subwoofer system for my office/ hobby room built within a larger shop with all my necessary tools for my hobbies. I have the large sound I built. Now I want the small great soung. The 4" sub-encloser that sounds great is my next problem. You just gave me the beginning of solving that problem. I want strictly sub. Suggest to me which box and how many watts to achieve great low sound at low to medium volume . Thanks poppa Keith. 62 yes old
It depends on what you're using it for. The sixth daughter bandpass is my go-to. It has great bandwidth and it's efficient. But I only suggested if you are trying to listen to a broad genre of music. If you only listening to movies then I would say a simple ported enclosure tune as low as possible will be your best bet.
Can you please give me the baffle placement measurement. Thank you
I subbed. You're cool. Box looked really well put together.
Great science video Mr. I have an H2 Hummer and want to feel the sound pressure of deep bass. I'm not looking for competition but want to feel the bass pressure not just hear it.
This is the equipment I am thinking of getting.
Subwoofer = Skar Audio VXF-12 D2 12" 3000 Watt Max 1500 Watts RMS Power Dual 2 Ohm
Amp = Sundown Audio SFB-1500D Monoblock Amplifier 1500 Watts RMS
Box = ported Box.
Maybe i can future-proof and get Sundown Audio SFB-5000D Monoblock Amplifier 3200 Watts RMS.
If I plan to get a second subwoofer later on.
What do you think? Will one 12-inch at 1200 to 1500 watts give me the Bass pressure I want to feel?
or 1 15" ported box or 1 bandpass box like yours.. lol... the list goes on lots of options
Hello. I enjoy the build design that you share. What advice would you have for a 4 12 6th order bandpass.
As long as you have the space for it, the only question would be series or parallel config. Go for it!
AWESOME BUILD!!! Do you have any plans for 8" jl w7 6th order bandpass?
Mr BudgetBassHead, I have a question. Do you build and sell your boxes?
Not any more
@@BudgetBassHead do you have any old boxes you'd be willing to let go of??...
How you doing my brother? I would like to know how much do you charge to design a dual 12" 6th order enclosure for a toyota corolla?
Checkout My Top 5 of 2020: th-cam.com/video/TWno63VeQbM/w-d-xo.html
How can i contact you? I would like some more detail information if possible. I'm building a box for four 12's and I want it to be right
Do you build boxes?
@@rizzrizz2291 did he ever contact you?
@@Bezzle. Hell Nawl
Would u be able to put a better picture of the cut out sheet on here?
Maybe in part 2
Amazing job. Do you sell custom box in France 😂? I have a ts wx300 a pioneer and its ok but dosent catch low frequency as i would 😅. I will sell it for a better quality sound . Thank you for all these informations
This helps a lot, thanks😄
You're welcome.
Completely obscure question, but I'm nutty and just _gotta_ know:
What would happen if you drilled a hole in your baffle? I assume it'd take the point of port tuning away, but could that also bring with it some efficiency between the frequency tunings? Kind-of like making the whole enclosure tuned for the sum of the two? 🤔
What you said...😉
This is the best video I have seen regarding this. I have a serious question if you can. Can a sixth order box also be isobaric for 2 - 2007 Kicker 15" cvr?
Of course. But those subs seems efficient enough to not need it. Isobaric was a thing back in the day when subwoofers had tiny magnets and not a lot of motor force. But try it out and let us know how it comes out. 🤘
How far in are the baffles located? I'm trying to make this box but can't see, to find that info and seem s like it's an important thing to know so the chambers are of appropriate size etc. Thanks a bunch for the box plans!
can u do one for two skar zvx 4 oder pls
thanks! this guy is awesome...!
Should I just enlarge everything by 3 inches
Would these dimensions work well with an American Bass HD10D1 sub?... obviously cutting a smaller mounting hole for the sub, but would the tuning still be the same?
When the youtube commercial jumps in and it nearly blows your speakers
I just put those values into win iAd and it's saying the port for the 2.2 chamber should be 59" long but I see that yours is much shorter.....am I doing something wrong? I'm looking into building this box and just wanted to verify everything before putting the cash and time into it. Thanks a million.
Challenge accepted bro!
What app used for the sweep? And man I'll never let anyone talk me out of not building a 6th order I had one before and I want another one but with today's technology I know it will sound amazing
Awesome build. Did sketch up automatically make the cut sheets?
sir, is this a design box? can I use bass boosted or hard kicks? can it also be outdoors?
Great video bro...
💯
will the sub and box handle your 4000 watts?
I haven't tried that yet.
how come you don't have a duel 6 order bandpass box design?
You sound exactly like Steve Harvey bro lol
Can you use a piece of lexan for the lid? And would you use some sort of gasket material on the lexan?
IT has to be very thick though
Hey bro is there a difference in performance between parallel port and series ported bandpass
Hello, I´ve heard that cones life reduces when you use these boxes due to inside pressure, tell me please is that true?
I want to make this but for the vxf 15 what would be the measurements
Does it matter all that much if my ports are different sizes? Also, I've never calculated box volume separately from port volume. Where and what info did you get to lead you to calculating them separately? I've designed a 6th order and it'd be extremely difficult to get the ports the same width/height in both chambers.
I would like to know the dimensions for a 10 Nep advanced
Awesome build man, I wish I had the skills to build a box like that for my AB xfl, then I need to build a side ported box for my audiobahn immortal 15, quad coils running it on a hybrid rockford bd1000p running it at .5 ohm and it gets down in a crappy Pyle wood box it came in ,
Thanks for the compliment 🤟
Is it hard to drill the sub in, thanks for the video.
It can be quite challenging. But using a template makes it easier 😉
can you help me with some measurements for my single 15 audio pipe bdc4 to build one of these ?! plz like as big as the box should be in total and the squares on the inside which one should be bigger I know I’m axing for a lot, but I figured that’s all I need cause you would know this space i need for the right air
I need a 6th for my DD508 badly!!!
is really FREE dual tunes? get from 20 to 60hz on a single woofer?
Hey, just curious. While box software did you use to design your box?
win-isd pro
Im trying to use the winisd pro to get the specs for the box for the sundown sa 15. It doesnt seem to have that brand nor the skar audio subs that you use.
I'm currently running my vxf 12 in a ported box built to spec. I'd really love to build this same box to get that bandwidth, is there anyway you could send me the blueprints to build it? Also, I just pre ordered the peerless by tymphany STW-350F 15 so I'm excited for that to come in the mail! I'm currently in the process of upgrading my electrical system before I try powering that sub. Planning on using the new Wolfram full bridge 8000.1 amp, should be good for 3,200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms 😬 I'd also like to build a sealed box like the one you made as well. Love the videos man very informative
When I use Win-iSD my output lines are off the charts, would you know commonly made mistakes in using this?
You can manually adjust those numbers in settings