Thank you for your video. As a mobile mechanic who is an ASE certified master with 45 plus years experience even I haven't seen everything. It is very helpful to have these videos to have an idea of what I'm going against before I get there.
Thanks for showing the part#'s for the solenoids and seals. I destroyed my seal getting it off then called the dealer to see if they had one. The guy at the dealership told me "there are no gaskets or seals for the VCT solenoid." I tried to explain it to him and he just got more adamant that there's no such thing. So I re-watched you video and wrote down the part number. Now the same guy is going to have two VCT seals ready for me to pick up tomorrow.
Thanks, Greg. I ran for a couple months without the bad solenoid connected and finally replaced today. It was fairly easy to replace. I was scared to death of dropping the screw, but no problem. I'll replace the other one soon.
FYI You will not be able to remove the VCT on a 2009 F150 unless you remove the valve cover. The hole diameter in the valve cover is a lot smaller allowing no room to remove the screw holding the solenoid in place.
Thank you so much for doing both sides! Have an 08 F150 having the same ignition issues. Spent about an hour googling and searching to find the position for bank 2 and nothing was giving the correct spot. Thank you for the video.
@thomasknight3975 Depending on which side needs changed, yes. I believe the driver side, which would be bank 2, requires the valve cover to be removed, along with the power steering reservoir, the oil dipstick will have to be unbolted and moved along with removing all the spark plug coils and unplugging fuel injectors. It's like an hours worth of work for a quick parts change. It will be really annoying.
2010 4.6. Thanks for the video, I was hopeful, but no go on this truck. Had to remove the valve covers. There just wasn’t enough room to either get onto the T27 torx head or remove the solenoid through the hole in the valve covers. Just take your time and don’t rush it. It was a full day job for me …mister slow … but got ‘er done ✔️
Was looking to see if I could change solenoid(s) in my 2005 transmission and came across this vid. Not only helpful, but must give a KC born and raised thumbs up!
I just watched your video and I was shocked that its such an easy repair as it is, the dealership told me another version like tearing it all apart, but of course they wanted 600.00 for replacing the 2 solenoids. I have a 2010 F150 Raptor 5.4 engine and its problem is bad idling but one it get rolling its ok, so now I know that your fix is gonna be my fix.. Thanks a MILLION.. Awesome Regards JIMMY..
***** Jimmy... Be sure to check closely. I've been informed in the comments here that it changed somewhere around 08... You may need to pop the valve covers off. Not a huge deal, but more involved than what I show in this vid.
Major asterisk on this one. This procedure only works on 2004-2006. 2007+ has a smaller hole and the seal is inside, so you MUST remove the valve covers to replace the VCT solenoid.
Yes these video's piss me off because they are very misleading. I destroyed my seal on my 2009 just to realize that I cannot get it out without removing valve covers. Not exactly what you want to deal with in 6 degree weather but these idiots don't know what they are talking about. I have not found a single auction on ebay that sells the right kit or a single video on youtube that breaks down the GIGANTIC differences between the newer and older 5.4's.
@@adriannyasia well crap... did you have a vid of it? i need to do both of mine and was sport of excited that i could just do it top side (08 Expedition)... thanks for the heads up comment!
Earl Glase th-cam.com/video/rIJH7do9S14/w-d-xo.html Best I could do. Keep in mind, you can remove the computer on the firewall closest to the passenger side.
SOB I have a 2010 and could not get my tool to go in on the screw... That was after I had to track down a ling enough tool. Now, I am realizing that the covers absolutely have to come off.... Dang man... This sucks because I thought it would be a very easy repair job. Now I'm looking at a whole day wasted and more work ahead. I might have been better to take it to a shop for reallllzzzz ... Good video by the way but very misleading as to all makes and years.
Inspect before pulling seals there are 2 different types of seals for these the 5.4 engines 07 and 08 have smaller seals without tabs and have no room to get tools by or even get the tab with screw through if you could loosen it . This means remove the valve cover .
Thanks for this video. My 08 f150 has been doing this intermittently for awhile now and I couldn't figure out what was causing this until today when I cleared a TDC code for a misfire on #5 cylinder and then drove to the parts store with the OBD2 still connected watching for the I/M codes to clear. When I pulled into the Advance Auto parking lot the truck deiseled and a potential code for P0022 lit up. It never actually threw the TDC code, but finally I know what causes it and you did a great job showing how to easily fix it
I'm checking on a rough idling problem for my wife's Expedition. That's how I stumbled on your video. I AUTOMATICALLY subscribed to your channel because of your Royals hat!! Thanks for the great video and go Kansas City!!!
This method only works on 2004-2007 early build models, 2007 late build to 2014 you MUST remove the valve cover because the hole in the VC is a lot smaller...
Good video. Im in australia. The seals are $40$ each down here. Ouch. I worked out how to remove seals without wrecking them. Best to for me to use a t27 long torque screw driver just in case the tape fails. My luck. Tape would fail!! Vct solinoid are $300 each down here. Double Ouch.
I have a 2007 Mark LT, it would make sense to pull the valve covers before anything to look at the cam bearings. The timing chain tensioners had a bad seal design and they were plastic which in itself does not guarantee problems, once the seals blow out on the mounting surface, the oil to the top end starves, if only cam phaser noise occurs and not ruined cam bearings and cam, you got lucky, then remove the timing cover and replace the tensioners and guides with your choice of iron tensioners or plastic with a better seal, chains etc and yes the phaser solenoids and possibly the phasers themselves if they got beat up bad by now. Hopefully the guides are not broken yet with the parts in the oil pan as that has happened to people. Mine started making noise at a bit over 70k miles and started getting horrible gas mileage (was not great to begin with) and sometimes stumbles after a long run on the freeway when coming to a stop. Backing a boat into the yard is the worst time for this to happen as throttle is required to clear it up requiring even more careful skill than just backing the boat into the yard without hitting something. I have to say, the engine after solenoid change in the background still sounded like a diesel to me. These engines should be so quiet you might not know your engine is running if someone near you is making noise without looking at the tach or hitting the pedal while in gear. If you go in with the idea that the front cover and valve covers need to come off, then you will have peace of mind when it is over and you know all your timing components are in 100% top condition. If the cams and bearing surfaces ARE scored, new heads is all I can say unless metal shavings got circulated into the oil system then yank the engine. The cam chain tensioners leaking WILL starve the top end to some degree and the oil pressure light only tells you if the crankshaft is starving, not the top end so you will likely never see a warning about oil.
I just changed these on my 04 f150 with 5.4 .. very easy but a little nerve wracking. I ordered a 6” t-handle Torx and the only problem I encountered with it was it bumped up against the bracket for the power steering reservoir so I had to take it slow And reposition it every 3/4 revolution. Also one of the original screens had fallen out when I took the one off the passenger side , luckily it fell outside the motor!
My dealer wants $675 to replace both solenoids...I told them what they can do with that...your vid is awesome....I was going to remove the valve covers, but I think I`ll try your way first..thx a lot.
I'm from Overland Park, I have a issue with my 1997 5.4 triton engine and saw this great idea, once I figure out how to diagnose it, before I attemt that. Thanks 👍😁
i followed the instructions in the video but the hole in the valve cover was smaller than that shown in the video. the old VVT would not come out forcing the removal of the valve cover. what should have been made known up front is that there are 2 different sizes of holes in the valve cover. after i opened the replacement VVT i discovered there are 2 different size gaskets also.
This is a good video but I have a 2007 and you have to take the valve covers off. The seals are different and the hole alignment is as well. you cant safely get a tool in to remove the vvt. It wasn't hard just took a little longer. I removed all the coil packs but thats it. I only lifted the valve cover enough to reome and install the old one.
I just wanted to reach out and say 'Thank you' for posting this video. I had to replace both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition. This video made it easy (except for those damn seals...those were a bugger). Thanks Greg!
I was already going to do the timing on my truck had the valve covers off figured id just change these real quick cause its right on top... dropped the bit down the front cover hahaha.
Hi Greg---This is truly a good video. As clear as possible on the camera work. Hard to shoot down in that hole. I tackled this this morning. Started with passenger side. No problems. Driver side was doing ok except that little bolt acts like it was put on with an impact wrench. I have a 12" torx I am using. I wish I had a T handle long torx. So I had to leave it...put new seal on it. LOL... Do you have any ideas, any suggestions what you'd do in this circumstance? Surely don't want to break bolt off...just break it loose. Thanks a million if you get time with an idea. Jesus bless.
Unfortunately a dealer or shop won't usually do it this way or if they do they'll still charge by the way Ford says and that's by pulling off the valve covers so instead of charging for a 1 hour job they can charge people for a 3 hour job at 150 hr
I've got an '09 F150 with a 5.4L in it. The solenoids are the same part number but the seals are different. On yours it apears that you have more room on one side of the solenoid allowing you to be able to get a wrench in there. I do not. I don't think I can get to the screw on the solenoid without taking the valve covers off. I'm pissed. :(
That is awesome man, thank you so much for this video. I was thinking it was hard to fix this issue. So these older gunked up designs can cause the diesel sound most of us hear? I will be doing this fix real soon, considering how easy you made it look!
This "diesel" sound is actually caused by the cam phaser's, typically the drivers side bank is worse, but on my 2004 F150 XLT 5.4L, I will be replacing both to avoid having to do this again for the other side. I may replace the VCT Solenoid too, knowing that Ford has made an upgraded part... Good video though, really helpful for people replacing the VCT.
I really couldn't tell you because mine has sounded like this every since I bought it which was about 1yr ago. the solenoids stopped the loud chatter clicking sound. and I changed the fuel pressure sensor which stopped it from cutting off when backing up and rough idle. truck runs very smooth now but still sounds like a quiet diesel.
I had my 08 f150 at the shop for diagnosis n the dude says I need a new engine. He said that's why the p00022 and p00018 code is coming from. That's not true tho. That's just a quick way to get sells and to break my heart. Lol. You just fixed mine tho. Thanks
I just wanted to say thank you so much for this video I just bought a truck yesterday 2004 F150 5.4 3 valve my truck sounds exactly like the truck on this video I'm going to give it a shot because I was pretty upset when I heard the noise I'll keep you posted let you know if it works I'm ordering the parts today again thank you thank you thank you you rock!
07 and up you have to pull valve cover! That stupid seal is different. Also if you take valve cover off you can stuff rags in timing chain housing. Be sure to blow dirt off top before removing.
Wait a minute VCT solinoids are only on 2004 and up 3 valve engines with cam phasers. 94-2003 were 2 valve engines. The knock can be many things. The 04 + have cam phaser that knock.
@Greg's Garage did this repair last long term? I've read they will be quiet for a while, then go right back to ticking because the problem is really low oil pressure, etc.
Great video! Did you have any codes? What lead you to replacing the solenoids instead of the cam phasers? From what I can tell, a failed phaser will generate a diesel or clacking/knocking sound at hot idle, similar to what you described.
On the 2008 expedition 5.4L, the seal is much smaller diameter. I carved the valve cover to allow tool access and again to allow extracting the wider coil area along with the tool (a much thinner T-handle torx wrench). But then I had forgotten about the screw tab. The solenoid with it's tab will NOT pass through the hole. Valve cover removal is required. What a pisser that Ford made a design change that accomplishes nothing but making it more difficult to service. My dealer wouldn't touch the job without also replacing phasers and chain tensioners. They want $2600. I think I'll be removing the valve covers myself.
I did what you were doing and took it one step further by making the egg shape in the hole to allow the bolt to pass through. Put cloth or rag in the hole to keep out shavings. Took about 2 hours to do both sides. It can be done easily if you take the time to fix fords piss poor design.
Awww man I was waiting to hear the engine run after the fix but you skipped that part. But anyways, great vid my 04' Lariat sounds like a Diesel engine at idle and my check engine light comes on after 30 mins of driving so now I know how to change the solenoids. Thanks alot👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yes there are 2 different types of seals for these the 5.4 engines 07 and 08 have smaller seals without tabs and have no room to get tools by or even get the tab with screw through if you could loosen it . This means remove the valve cover .
Hi, I am from Black Lake Saskatchewan Canada. I have same problem to my engine. This will help me a lot to fix it good.. but my motor is from 2008. I hope I don't break the seal. I found a solenoid from old motor that people took out a motor and left it outside. I will let you know when I replace it. Later.
My 05 Mercury cuts out, idol is off. I've recently replaced plugs and coils. Was going to replace injectors. I came across this video. Sounds like my 4.6 is in need of this repair.
+ILLBOY83 Might want to check your Throttle Body. Ford made a change to the DBW in which your 2005 has. You might need to replace the entire throttle body, with the updated idle air control and tps sensor. Thats what I did with my 2006.
+ILLBOY83 Might want to check your Throttle Body. Ford made a change to the DBW in which your 2005 has. You might need to replace the entire throttle body, with the updated idle air control and tps sensor. Thats what I did with my 2006.
King Daniel u right u Need to do one more thing if u found the gides broken u have to remove the oil pan to celan the oil pick up cuz all the pcs are holding the oil Some people think that the oil pump is not working right wrong oil pan has to come out
That's a nice tip...So did they fix the rattle.?..'cos they're valve timing altering solenoids...I've only messed with one modular Ford engine (full rebuild) and I remember the primary timing chain and guides and tentioner being an issue...That would be a tricky repair in the car..I'd pull the engine for that one.
I have seen several of these tutorials, all have said "just unscrew and pull it out." I found the hole is too small to remove the part through ,unless you break the valve cover- one man did. Also what kind of a mechanic only has one pair of pliers?
Specificity would help. The part you showed for the solenoid seal, does not fit. Evidently I have to take off the valve cover. Went from a 1 week wait for parts, so I could take to an auto repair shop as was not a 1 hour project I as a none mechanic could do. Ford F150 2007 Lariat.
Hi i just came across your video and i need to do these on my F150. I was wanting to ask you if I can do it like this on my 2010 F150 FX4 5.4 triton? Asking before i start doing it makes a differencein the amount of time its going to take me. Thank ya for any help @GregsGarage
Does the 2001 F150 (built 2000) 4.6 V8 have the VCT? Mine doesn't look like this. There is no plug etc like this in the top of the valve cover on either side.
is it just me or is it still not making the same noise as before? its quieter in the end yes but if i shut my truck off for 45 min and start it its a bit quieter too because the oil is cooler. my truck makes the exact same noise as the beginning of the video.
well to be honest, with the research i've been doing it seems that if the truck makes a knocking sound when its cold (aside from the first 30 seconds of start), then its your timing chain guides failing or failed. but if its quiet till it gets hot then your chain guides are fine and insead its your cam phasers. And unless your truck makes the knock AND runs like a bag of crap, the VCT soleniods are fine. The knocking is strictly the cam phasers if your truck runs fine and just makes a knocking noise. Hope this helps anyone.
Thanks for the video. Replaced both mine in a F150 2005 5.4 liter. Solved the problem. Great video loved the detail. Any thoughts or ideas on replacing the spark plugs on the same model and year? I hear the a pain in the ass.
I have a video on how to remove the plugs after they break! I hope you don't have to watch that one. It's a horrible job, but totally do-able if one does break. There are a handful of good vids on how to get them out without breaking them. Some guys suggest warming up the engine before removal. Everyone suggests spraying carb cleaner into the holes after you crack them loose to help remove the carbon that causes them to stick and break off. Also taking them out with an impact wrench seems to be the magic to get them out without getting stuck.
If your truck is an 07 or newer this work work. You HAVE to remove the Rocker covers to remove the VCT. I saw your video and was pumped to get get going, only to find out that it wont work with my 07 5.4.
Any advice on how to get it out of an 08 5.4 with the smaller hole without removing the valve cover? It's almost impossible to get my valve cover off but I need this changed and the ruck back on the road. Any ideas? Thank you.
Does this video work for any 5.4L? Thinking about changing these solenoids on a 2008 Lincoln Navigator. If it’s this easy, I’ll give it a go. Nice thorough video.
Thanks for the video and the info. I just bought the timing chain kit and an oil pump from advanced along w/ an oil pump because my oil pressure was almost nothing when idling hot and sounding like a Diesel...lol. I didn't pick up my parts yet and am sure I can return them. Should I replace them anyway or just try this first? Thanks again, peace!
Forget that I'm not going through all this, only Ford makes shit this complicated and time consuming. I rather drive mines off a bridge and get the insurance money..
Thank you for this video I have the same problem I replace o2, censors and drove the tuck hrs later check engine light came on and it was telling me the o2 again Truck would turn off after it worm up and it sounded like a diesel I just wanted to say that you for a good video
hey bro I would appreciate if you reply me back I had the same problem with my truck I bought it use it and it sounds like diesel and I've been wondering what it is I will like to know if you really fixing it replacing that Thank you bro.
Hey bro my hole problem was my air flow censor Once I change it I've never had other problems a nap air flow censor will activate many different codes Start by replacing the air flow censor and let me know good luck and write back to see if it worked for you thanks
this does not work for 2007 and up! thanks for video because even though I had to remove the valve covers this fixed my problem!!! thanks but valve cover comes off on 2007 f150 and is a big job!!!
I wish I had read all the comments before trying this on my 2010 and tearing up the seal! Has anyone found a work around instead of pulling the valve covers? Flexible shaft torque? This video should be pulled or the years amended.
Thanks for this video. Does the notch on that ring at the top move? My notch is not on the same side as the bolt. Mine is on the left top side when looking at it at the same direction. I have the 5.4L on an 09 expedition. Is there any reason why that would be different?
I have a 97 5.4L and I don't have one disable. Everyone shows the ones that are visible. Do I not have any? Would be nice to know with out doing research.
A client of mine has brought a 2006 F-150 that has thrown a bunch of codes...8 to be precise. I've replaced both cam sensors, tps, all 4 o2 sensors, fuel pump, and fuel lines. Truck will not stay running period. Has a bit of a knock at the beginning when it does decide to start, but will not stay running for any longer than 10-15 seconds and when it is running, it runs extremely rough. I'm wondering if the VCT solenoids would cause this?
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Thank you for your video. As a mobile mechanic who is an ASE certified master with 45 plus years experience even I haven't seen everything. It is very helpful to have these videos to have an idea of what I'm going against before I get there.
Thanks for showing the part#'s for the solenoids and seals. I destroyed my seal getting it off then called the dealer to see if they had one. The guy at the dealership told me "there are no gaskets or seals for the VCT solenoid." I tried to explain it to him and he just got more adamant that there's no such thing. So I re-watched you video and wrote down the part number. Now the same guy is going to have two VCT seals ready for me to pick up tomorrow.
Truck all of the sudden barely running after stopping at a stop sign. Replaced both sides and runs great again. Thank you
Thanks, Greg. I ran for a couple months without the bad solenoid connected and finally replaced today. It was fairly easy to replace. I was scared to death of dropping the screw, but no problem. I'll replace the other one soon.
FYI You will not be able to remove the VCT on a 2009 F150 unless you remove the valve cover. The hole diameter in the valve cover is a lot smaller allowing no room to remove the screw holding the solenoid in place.
I just now saw this🤦♂️🤣 question out of curiosity…is it only the 09??
This information is 8 years old but still great I'm fixing to replace mine so I'm thankful for the info!!!
crap... what about expedition?!
Thank you so much for doing both sides! Have an 08 F150 having the same ignition issues. Spent about an hour googling and searching to find the position for bank 2 and nothing was giving the correct spot. Thank you for the video.
Did you have to pull your valve cover? On my 2008 I'm having full my valve cover
@thomasknight3975 Depending on which side needs changed, yes. I believe the driver side, which would be bank 2, requires the valve cover to be removed, along with the power steering reservoir, the oil dipstick will have to be unbolted and moved along with removing all the spark plug coils and unplugging fuel injectors. It's like an hours worth of work for a quick parts change. It will be really annoying.
Glad I saw this video! Another video was showing you needed to remove the valve covers and this made it look much easier! Thanks!
Has a engine light on for cam actuators but I’ve had them unhooked and it runs fine. 4x4 works great.
I got it bro good job nephew
For what engine
@@nonyaanon6801 5.4
Nice, clean, straight forward, from a 30yr + certified mech to you...good job!
2010 4.6. Thanks for the video, I was hopeful, but no go on this truck. Had to remove the valve covers. There just wasn’t enough room to either get onto the T27 torx head or remove the solenoid through the hole in the valve covers. Just take your time and don’t rush it. It was a full day job for me …mister slow … but got ‘er done ✔️
Was looking to see if I could change solenoid(s) in my 2005 transmission and came across this vid. Not only helpful, but must give a KC born and raised thumbs up!
I just watched your video and I was shocked that its such an easy repair as it is, the dealership told me another version like tearing it all apart, but of course they wanted 600.00 for replacing the 2 solenoids. I have a 2010 F150 Raptor 5.4 engine and its problem is bad idling but one it get rolling its ok, so now I know that your fix is gonna be my fix.. Thanks a MILLION.. Awesome Regards JIMMY..
***** Jimmy... Be sure to check closely. I've been informed in the comments here that it changed somewhere around 08... You may need to pop the valve covers off. Not a huge deal, but more involved than what I show in this vid.
It changed after 06 and lucky me I have an 07 so instead of a simple fix like your video its a much more involved job .@@GregsGarage
Major asterisk on this one. This procedure only works on 2004-2006. 2007+ has a smaller hole and the seal is inside, so you MUST remove the valve covers to replace the VCT solenoid.
Right you are! I just did an 07. Definitely had to remove the valve covers. Not an easy task. Ill be posting up the vid soon
Yes these video's piss me off because they are very misleading. I destroyed my seal on my 2009 just to realize that I cannot get it out without removing valve covers. Not exactly what you want to deal with in 6 degree weather but these idiots don't know what they are talking about. I have not found a single auction on ebay that sells the right kit or a single video on youtube that breaks down the GIGANTIC differences between the newer and older 5.4's.
@@adriannyasia well crap... did you have a vid of it? i need to do both of mine and was sport of excited that i could just do it top side (08 Expedition)... thanks for the heads up comment!
Earl Glase th-cam.com/video/rIJH7do9S14/w-d-xo.html
Best I could do. Keep in mind, you can remove the computer on the firewall closest to the passenger side.
SOB I have a 2010 and could not get my tool to go in on the screw... That was after I had to track down a ling enough tool. Now, I am realizing that the covers absolutely have to come off.... Dang man... This sucks because I thought it would be a very easy repair job. Now I'm looking at a whole day wasted and more work ahead. I might have been better to take it to a shop for reallllzzzz ... Good video by the way but very misleading as to all makes and years.
Inspect before pulling seals there are 2 different types of seals for these the 5.4 engines 07 and 08 have smaller seals without tabs and have no room to get tools by or even get the tab with screw through if you could loosen it . This means remove the valve cover .
Wish I would have found this comment before I started ripping everything out of my truck. Now I am screwed. Easy my butt
My 05 has the same issue. Time to pull the valve covers.
Thank you so much for posting this. Greatly appreciate it.
-Poor College student
Thanks for this video. My 08 f150 has been doing this intermittently for awhile now and I couldn't figure out what was causing this until today when I cleared a TDC code for a misfire on #5 cylinder and then drove to the parts store with the OBD2 still connected watching for the I/M codes to clear. When I pulled into the Advance Auto parking lot the truck deiseled and a potential code for P0022 lit up. It never actually threw the TDC code, but finally I know what causes it and you did a great job showing how to easily fix it
I’m jealous of how easily you got that bank 2 deal out. Mine has been fighting me for hours.
I'm checking on a rough idling problem for my wife's Expedition. That's how I stumbled on your video. I AUTOMATICALLY subscribed to your channel because of your Royals hat!! Thanks for the great video and go Kansas City!!!
MAF sensor
This method only works on 2004-2007 early build models, 2007 late build to 2014 you MUST remove the valve cover because the hole in the VC is a lot smaller...
I have an 05 with the smaller seals.
Good video. Im in australia. The seals are $40$ each down here. Ouch. I worked out how to remove seals without wrecking them. Best to for me to use a t27 long torque screw driver just in case the tape fails. My luck. Tape would fail!! Vct solinoid are $300 each down here. Double Ouch.
I have a 2007 Mark LT, it would make sense to pull the valve covers before anything to look at the cam bearings. The timing chain tensioners had a bad seal design and they were plastic which in itself does not guarantee problems, once the seals blow out on the mounting surface, the oil to the top end starves, if only cam phaser noise occurs and not ruined cam bearings and cam, you got lucky, then remove the timing cover and replace the tensioners and guides with your choice of iron tensioners or plastic with a better seal, chains etc and yes the phaser solenoids and possibly the phasers themselves if they got beat up bad by now. Hopefully the guides are not broken yet with the parts in the oil pan as that has happened to people. Mine started making noise at a bit over 70k miles and started getting horrible gas mileage (was not great to begin with) and sometimes stumbles after a long run on the freeway when coming to a stop. Backing a boat into the yard is the worst time for this to happen as throttle is required to clear it up requiring even more careful skill than just backing the boat into the yard without hitting something.
I have to say, the engine after solenoid change in the background still sounded like a diesel to me. These engines should be so quiet you might not know your engine is running if someone near you is making noise without looking at the tach or hitting the pedal while in gear. If you go in with the idea that the front cover and valve covers need to come off, then you will have peace of mind when it is over and you know all your timing components are in 100% top condition. If the cams and bearing surfaces ARE scored, new heads is all I can say unless metal shavings got circulated into the oil system then yank the engine. The cam chain tensioners leaking WILL starve the top end to some degree and the oil pressure light only tells you if the crankshaft is starving, not the top end so you will likely never see a warning about oil.
I just changed these on my 04 f150 with 5.4 .. very easy but a little nerve wracking. I ordered a 6” t-handle Torx and the only problem I encountered with it was it bumped up against the bracket for the power steering reservoir so I had to take it slow And reposition it every 3/4 revolution. Also one of the original screens had fallen out when I took the one off the passenger side , luckily it fell outside the motor!
4.6 & 5.4 didn’t hit the F150 until ‘97.
Thank you for the info. This will help me with my 06 5.4L F150
My dealer wants $675 to replace both solenoids...I told them what they can do with that...your vid is awesome....I was going to remove the valve covers, but I think I`ll try your way first..thx a lot.
I'm from Overland Park, I have a issue with my 1997 5.4 triton engine and saw this great idea, once I figure out how to diagnose it, before I attemt that. Thanks 👍😁
I have a 97 as well and I don't see them any where. Nothing like the video. They aren't there.
Thanks. I just bought a 2006 f250 for $950. Having those same symptoms. Will try it.
Did it work?
i followed the instructions in the video but the hole in the valve cover was smaller than that shown in the video. the old VVT would not come out forcing the removal of the valve cover. what should have been made known up front is that there are 2 different sizes of holes in the valve cover. after i opened the replacement VVT i discovered there are 2 different size gaskets also.
Absolutely.
Hey Greg. Thanks for posting this vid. I replaced my 5.4L VCT's and used video for reference. You saved me some money by helping me DIY.
shawn bebout did it fix your knock noise
This is a good video but I have a 2007 and you have to take the valve covers off. The seals are different and the hole alignment is as well. you cant safely get a tool in to remove the vvt. It wasn't hard just took a little longer. I removed all the coil packs but thats it. I only lifted the valve cover enough to reome and install the old one.
I just wanted to reach out and say 'Thank you' for posting this video. I had to replace both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition. This video made it easy (except for those damn seals...those were a bugger). Thanks Greg!
I'm thinking this is my problem on my 08 F150 but Rick below says that this method is not usable.
It isn't clear if this fixed the issue , He doesn't show the engine noise after the repair in the same way he did before repair
MistuhMatt LP
thx for your Video! just replaced the VCT's in my 06 F150 and she's good as new!
Scott Brown did it stop the knock noise at idle?
I was already going to do the timing on my truck had the valve covers off figured id just change these real quick cause its right on top... dropped the bit down the front cover hahaha.
I wanted to hear how the car sounds after you finish the job.
yeah wondering if to am wondering if it did anything at all? would like to hear it run while hot.
I change this part and bought from eBay and the check engine light is saying the same thing what to do know
u did hear it.. it was in the background... it did nothing to fix the motor.. thats why he didnt film it..
Hi Greg---This is truly a good video. As clear as possible on the camera work. Hard to shoot down in that hole.
I tackled this this morning. Started with passenger side. No problems.
Driver side was doing ok except that little bolt acts like it was put on with an impact wrench. I have a 12" torx I am using. I wish I had a
T handle long torx. So I had to leave it...put new seal on it. LOL... Do you have any ideas, any suggestions what you'd do in this circumstance? Surely don't want to break bolt off...just break it loose. Thanks a million if you get time with an idea. Jesus bless.
Put your torque solidly and whack it with hammer several times! Should brake it loose, may you have luck!!
I don’t understand the 261 👎 the man did a great job on this video 💯
thank u so much.. this is assuredly what is wrong with my 2010 f 150
Thank you for the breakdown, my local repair shop was doing this for me & I wanted to see what it consisted of.
Unfortunately a dealer or shop won't usually do it this way or if they do they'll still charge by the way Ford says and that's by pulling off the valve covers so instead of charging for a 1 hour job they can charge people for a 3 hour job at 150 hr
I've got an '09 F150 with a 5.4L in it. The solenoids are the same part number but the seals are different. On yours it apears that you have more room on one side of the solenoid allowing you to be able to get a wrench in there. I do not. I don't think I can get to the screw on the solenoid without taking the valve covers off. I'm pissed. :(
Megan Clark
07 and up requires removal of the valve covers as the hole is smaller and it prevents pulling the valve thru.
Megan Clark took me all day and a 6 pack to do left bank
that is 100 percent fucking right
That is awesome man, thank you so much for this video. I was thinking it was hard to fix this issue. So these older gunked up designs can cause the diesel sound most of us hear? I will be doing this fix real soon, considering how easy you made it look!
Charles Holden did you ever touch it? I heard the best thing to do was leave them the f alone haha
This "diesel" sound is actually caused by the cam phaser's, typically the drivers side bank is worse, but on my 2004 F150 XLT 5.4L, I will be replacing both to avoid having to do this again for the other side. I may replace the VCT Solenoid too, knowing that Ford has made an upgraded part... Good video though, really helpful for people replacing the VCT.
I really couldn't tell you because mine has sounded like this every since I bought it which was about 1yr ago. the solenoids stopped the loud chatter clicking sound. and I changed the fuel pressure sensor which stopped it from cutting off when backing up and rough idle. truck runs very smooth now but still sounds like a quiet diesel.
I had my 08 f150 at the shop for diagnosis n the dude says I need a new engine. He said that's why the p00022 and p00018 code is coming from. That's not true tho. That's just a quick way to get sells and to break my heart. Lol. You just fixed mine tho. Thanks
Awesome, sounds like a gas burner now, love the 45 min jobs, sounds much better. That truck is going to be a 500K mile runner when your done...
LOL. I hope it makes it to 200k. Then I'll be looking to down grade to a 40 year old machine.
I just wanted to say thank you so much for this video I just bought a truck yesterday 2004 F150 5.4 3 valve my truck sounds exactly like the truck on this video I'm going to give it a shot because I was pretty upset when I heard the noise I'll keep you posted let you know if it works I'm ordering the parts today again thank you thank you thank you you rock!
Well??
Runs like a top =)
Well after I did a full timing job 🙃
This video was very helpful but on my 2009 I had to pull the valve cover, the hole where the solenoid goes is too small to pull the solenoid out.
07 and up you have to pull valve cover! That stupid seal is different. Also if you take valve cover off you can stuff rags in timing chain housing. Be sure to blow dirt off top before removing.
Wait a minute VCT solinoids are only on 2004 and up 3 valve engines with cam phasers. 94-2003 were 2 valve engines. The knock can be many things. The 04 + have cam phaser that knock.
Some Australian fords had them starting in 2002.
What year truck is that you're working on? Rwd or 4x4 ...thanks for sharing Greg.👍😀 OH and did the older truck (97) come with two vct solenoid ?
Thank you. It is a lot eaiser seeing hands on than trying to read manuel
+Roxy Werner That's EXACTLY why I do these vids. I'm glad it helped!
Good advice on taping tools together just wish I would have gotten it a couple weeks ago.
Good video, and your right that couldn't have gone any better.. the taping tools is a great tip..
@Greg's Garage did this repair last long term? I've read they will be quiet for a while, then go right back to ticking because the problem is really low oil pressure, etc.
Great video! Did you have any codes? What lead you to replacing the solenoids instead of the cam phasers? From what I can tell, a failed phaser will generate a diesel or clacking/knocking sound at hot idle, similar to what you described.
No codes. The knocking lead me to some research... This seemed like it would be the easiest first shot at fixing it and it worked.
On the 2008 expedition 5.4L, the seal is much smaller diameter. I carved the valve cover to allow tool access and again to allow extracting the wider coil area along with the tool (a much thinner T-handle torx wrench). But then I had forgotten about the screw tab. The solenoid with it's tab will NOT pass through the hole. Valve cover removal is required. What a pisser that Ford made a design change that accomplishes nothing but making it more difficult to service. My dealer wouldn't touch the job without also replacing phasers and chain tensioners. They want $2600. I think I'll be removing the valve covers myself.
I did what you were doing and took it one step further by making the egg shape in the hole to allow the bolt to pass through. Put cloth or rag in the hole to keep out shavings. Took about 2 hours to do both sides. It can be done easily if you take the time to fix fords piss poor design.
The rubber seal will fill the void and keeps oil from splashing out.
Awww man I was waiting to hear the engine run after the fix but you skipped that part. But anyways, great vid my 04' Lariat sounds like a Diesel engine at idle and my check engine light comes on after 30 mins of driving so now I know how to change the solenoids. Thanks alot👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Long Time No See From.........Glad your back
Almost. I have an 08 and there's not actually enough clearance in the valve cover opening to get the solenoid out. "Missed it by that much."
Yes there are 2 different types of seals for these the 5.4 engines 07 and 08 have smaller seals without tabs and have no room to get tools by or even get the tab with screw through if you could loosen it . This means remove the valve cover .
The 2009 and 10’s are a completely different story as the valve covers have to come off to change these after the redesign.
Hi, I am from Black Lake Saskatchewan Canada. I have same problem to my engine. This will help me a lot to fix it good.. but my motor is from 2008. I hope I don't break the seal. I found a solenoid from old motor that people took out a motor and left it outside.
I will let you know when I replace it. Later.
Hi, you should correct the heading. VCT started in 2004, not 1994. Also, thanks for the good video.
If you have a 07 - 09 5.4L f150 then you will need to remove the valve cover on the passenger side. The driver side you can follow his instructions.
new hat....nice repair. i showed my gf this vid. now she knows why i buy masking tape when its on sale....
Thanks for the heads up Greg. Sandys got a 06 Lincoln 4.6. I think as long as she keeps me and Ryan out of it. It will run alright.lol
It will probably have the same issue at some point. Be sure to hop on it right away if it does. Happens almost overnight.
My 05 Mercury cuts out, idol is off.
I've recently replaced plugs and coils. Was going to replace injectors. I came across this video. Sounds like my 4.6 is in need of this repair.
+ILLBOY83 Might want to check your Throttle Body. Ford made a change to the DBW in which your 2005 has. You might need to replace the entire throttle body, with the updated idle air control and tps sensor. Thats what I did with my 2006.
+ILLBOY83 Might want to check your Throttle Body. Ford made a change to the DBW in which your 2005 has. You might need to replace the entire throttle body, with the updated idle air control and tps sensor. Thats what I did with my 2006.
does a 01 expedition vin w have a vvt solenoid if so where is it located mines is a 4.6l v8 2valve
Yes, that's phaser rattle. New timing components and an oil pump. VCT solenoid will not fix the oil pressure issue.
King Daniel u right u Need to do one more thing if u found the gides broken u have to remove the oil pan to celan the oil pick up cuz all the pcs are holding the oil Some people think that the oil pump is not working right wrong oil pan has to come out
Great repair Greg! That is one more thing off the todo..list!!! CJ
Thanks CJ. I think the truck will be good for awhile now. Fingers crossed.
That's a nice tip...So did they fix the rattle.?..'cos they're valve timing altering solenoids...I've only messed with one modular Ford engine (full rebuild) and I remember the primary timing chain and guides and tentioner being an issue...That would be a tricky repair in the car..I'd pull the engine for that one.
cool video! about to do the same with my truck. you make my life easier. thanks..
I have seen several of these tutorials, all have said "just unscrew and pull it out." I found the hole is too small to remove the part through ,unless you break the valve cover- one man did. Also what kind of a mechanic only has one pair of pliers?
Here is the problem.....it's a 5.4........
Nice fix!! The Royals better bring it tonight or we are going to be REAL Nervous....
They need to kick it into high gear!
hi Greg, is the oil important for VCT? i have to use a 5w-20 in my ford escape 2005 with 146k miles o can I use 20w-50? thanks
Do not use a thicker oil. You might as well throw a wrench in there. There's a reason for the thin oil.
Fuel mileage in the lower stated
Specificity would help. The part you showed for the solenoid seal, does not fit. Evidently I have to take off the valve cover. Went from a 1 week wait for parts, so I could take to an auto repair shop as was not a 1 hour project I as a none mechanic could do. Ford F150 2007 Lariat.
Greg, EXACTLY what I needed for my 2007 FX4. Thanks!
***** Hell yeah man! That's exactly why I make these videos. To pass on the little tips I know about.
did u have to take off your valve covers to change them? kus someone told me that they changed some thing between 06 and 07 models
I don't know which year they changed the valve cover design, but yes, some models after 2005 need to remove the valve covers.
@@GregsGarage i have a 2008 fx4 5.4 valve covers need to come off.
Hi i just came across your video and i need to do these on my F150. I was wanting to ask you if I can do it like this on my 2010 F150 FX4 5.4 triton? Asking before i start doing it makes a differencein the amount of time its going to take me. Thank ya for any help @GregsGarage
Won't work with a 2010 F150 V8 5.4L 3V Engine. The hole isn't big enough to get the VCT solenoid out. I had to take the valve covers off. :(
Thanks for this awesome video I’ll be tackling this tomorow....
Does the 2001 F150 (built 2000) 4.6 V8 have the VCT? Mine doesn't look like this. There is no plug etc like this in the top of the valve cover on either side.
negative, ford adopted stupid concept in 04, modified parts in 2010, still stupid concept, see video on locking stupid phasers
is it just me or is it still not making the same noise as before? its quieter in the end yes but if i shut my truck off for 45 min and start it its a bit quieter too because the oil is cooler. my truck makes the exact same noise as the beginning of the video.
+xX “That Guy Kevin” Xx You're spot on... I let it go too long and the phasers are shot. That repair is on my list of todos.
well to be honest, with the research i've been doing it seems that if the truck makes a knocking sound when its cold (aside from the first 30 seconds of start), then its your timing chain guides failing or failed. but if its quiet till it gets hot then your chain guides are fine and insead its your cam phasers. And unless your truck makes the knock AND runs like a bag of crap, the VCT soleniods are fine. The knocking is strictly the cam phasers if your truck runs fine and just makes a knocking noise. Hope this helps anyone.
Good info Kevin!
I have a 2000 ford expedition xlt 4.6 do they also have vct solenoids.
I believe so. Not sure if they have the same issue though.
Thanks for the video. Replaced both mine in a F150 2005 5.4 liter. Solved the problem. Great video loved the detail. Any thoughts or ideas on replacing the spark plugs on the same model and year? I hear the a pain in the ass.
I have a video on how to remove the plugs after they break! I hope you don't have to watch that one. It's a horrible job, but totally do-able if one does break. There are a handful of good vids on how to get them out without breaking them. Some guys suggest warming up the engine before removal. Everyone suggests spraying carb cleaner into the holes after you crack them loose to help remove the carbon that causes them to stick and break off. Also taking them out with an impact wrench seems to be the magic to get them out without getting stuck.
If your truck is an 07 or newer this work work. You HAVE to remove the Rocker covers to remove the VCT. I saw your video and was pumped to get get going, only to find out that it wont work with my 07 5.4.
yea, u can sneak in there only on 04-06 models
Any advice on how to get it out of an 08 5.4 with the smaller hole without removing the valve cover? It's almost impossible to get my valve cover off but I need this changed and the ruck back on the road. Any ideas? Thank you.
Was your video on a 4.6L or the larger V-8 and is there a difference because I have been told my 4.6 VCT solenoids are under the valve covers?
Does this video work for any 5.4L? Thinking about changing these solenoids on a 2008 Lincoln Navigator. If it’s this easy, I’ll give it a go. Nice thorough video.
Thanks for the video and the info. I just bought the timing chain kit and an oil pump from advanced along w/ an oil pump because my oil pressure was almost nothing when idling hot and sounding like a Diesel...lol. I didn't pick up my parts yet and am sure I can return them. Should I replace them anyway or just try this first? Thanks again, peace!
Nicely done Greg!
Thanks Tom.
Forget that I'm not going through all this, only Ford makes shit this complicated and time consuming. I rather drive mines off a bridge and get the insurance money..
Thank you for this video I have the same problem
I replace o2, censors and drove the tuck hrs later check engine light came on and it was telling me the o2 again
Truck would turn off after it worm up and it sounded like a diesel
I just wanted to say that you for a good video
hey bro I would appreciate if you reply me back I had the same problem with my truck I bought it use it and it sounds like diesel and I've been wondering what it is I will like to know if you really fixing it replacing that Thank you bro.
Hey bro my hole problem was my air flow censor
Once I change it I've never had other problems a nap air flow censor will activate many different codes
Start by replacing the air flow censor and let me know good luck and write back to see if it worked for you thanks
this does not work for 2007 and up! thanks for video because even though I had to remove the valve covers this fixed my problem!!! thanks but valve cover comes off on 2007 f150 and is a big job!!!
how long was it making the noise?
I wish I had read all the comments before trying this on my 2010 and tearing up the seal! Has anyone found a work around instead of pulling the valve covers? Flexible shaft torque? This video should be pulled or the years amended.
GLAD TO ANNOUNCE MY GROWLING BUZZING NOISE WAS FIXED AND COVERED UNDER POWER TRAIN WARRANTY
Awesome!
great video, i have question. what year is this expedition? I'm hearing that it might not be possible on my 2010 due to a design change
Good video. But what side would be bank 1?
Thanks for this video. Does the notch on that ring at the top move? My notch is not on the same side as the bolt. Mine is on the left top side when looking at it at the same direction. I have the 5.4L on an 09 expedition. Is there any reason why that would be different?
I have a 97 5.4L and I don't have one disable. Everyone shows the ones that are visible. Do I not have any? Would be nice to know with out doing research.
A client of mine has brought a 2006 F-150 that has thrown a bunch of codes...8 to be precise. I've replaced both cam sensors, tps, all 4 o2 sensors, fuel pump, and fuel lines. Truck will not stay running period. Has a bit of a knock at the beginning when it does decide to start, but will not stay running for any longer than 10-15 seconds and when it is running, it runs extremely rough. I'm wondering if the VCT solenoids would cause this?
I got a camshaft position sensor bank 1 engine light on replaced both of them already someone said I need to replace camshaft actuator
Thanks for the video. Does the listed parts work for a 2001 F150 with 5.4L engine? Amazon says the part is for 2005 and beyond.