The day you sell and no longer make videos featuring your Honda Odyssey is a day I will cry. Changed both back and front brakes & rotors yesterday and these videos made the job happen. Thanks a million.
This is a great video. I used your video to do the front brakes a few months ago. One thing I wanted to add that may be common sense for most,,but I am new at this, is that the parking brake needs to be released to remove the rotors. The new floor jack I bought said to put the parking brake on so I did. That kept the rotors in place no matter how hard I whacked them with a hammer, I even tried the screw tip someone mentioned below and that is when I realized the parking brake was still on.
Thank you! Your videos for the front and rear breaks helped me change breaks and rotors for the first time. Your videos gave me enough confidence to do the breaks on the vehicle that carries my entire family. Thank you, again!
Excellent tutorial - thanks ! I was wondering why the rotor was not coming off, till I realized I had the parking brake on :-) One safety tip I have found very useful is, if you use only side jack stands (like I do), use the parking brake to stabilize the vehicle against unwanted movements, but don't forget to release it when getting the rotor off.
I chock the front wheels so it wont roll forward, I release the jack put pump it up again as a backup. Useful tip on the parking brake. I figure that out myself but could have done with it sooner. Like Dustin, I was hammering on that thing!
I might add that if you are having trouble removing the rotors (as I did) there are two small threaded holes in the rotor. Place a bolt in each hole and gradually tighten each one and the rotor should pop off. Love these Hondas. Thanks for a great video with no air compressors or radio in the background!
Nice call. Those two holes are called jack pin screw holes. Gradually tighten means to tighten one screw a turn and then the other screw a turn. Repeat alternately turning the two screws until the rotor pops loose.
@@dylanshabtai4554 M8 x 1.25, they are all over the car especially under the hood. Be aware, the end of the bolt threads might get mushed while pressing the rotor off. So if you take bolts from under the hood to use as rotor jack screws, take ones that are not critical engine bolts. Best thing is grab some loose ones from the junkyard and keep them with your brake tools. Stay gold.
To anyone watching do yourself a big favor and pull the slide pins clean and thoroughly but lightly lube with sil glide.dont just poke at them and call it good. Careful with the rubber seal, use two hands one to hold the seal and the other to wiggle out the pin.spray the hole with brake clean and dry with compressed air or a qtip etc.wipe and inspect pin and hole for wear and grease well. Inspect seal and reassemble. Very important step on disk brakes with floating calipers.rears last a long time and grease will cook off and then they freeze and ruin everything. The longevity of rear pads makes this step a must.Also I strongly recommend sil glide as a brake lube it won't harden like some other brands even in hot climates and is a proven non petroleum brake lube safe for the seals etc.most high volume shops and dealerships use it to avoid problems. High performance stuff you can step up to cerami glide.never use petroleum ie wheel bearing grease. Only use brake grease on brakes and stick with sil glide.
Thanks so much! I hadn't changed brakes for over 2 decades. Your instructions were a huge help! 4:50 I need to remember the brake grease. 9:30 transfer metal plates over
THank you! Every year I come back here to refresh my knowledge how to replace rotors on my 2007 Odyssey :) Surprisingly such a simple and quick job! Thank you!
Bought the Brakemotive parts for front and rear. Your procedure is very clear and helpful. My only problem was the retaining clips included with rotors and pads. Wasted over 30 minutes with those totally crap clips. Cleaned up the original clips and job was completed quickly by reinstalling the old clips. My box of front and rear rotors and brake pads had no “breakin instructions”, so your final comment was very useful.
The only thing I would add to this great tutorial is this: At 1:40, use a 17 mm spanner to hold plunger boots when removing the 12mm caliper bolts. Said spanner is used at 11:30 when reinstalling caliper. If you don't there is a chance you can twist/tear the plunger boots. Great Job on the video. Thanks
man.. you just made my day.. I've been doing my own brake jobs using a c clamp to compress the caliper piston for the last 20 years.. didn't know this little tool existed.. .. especially since the C Clamp works great in almost all brake jobs.. however you usually have to find a spot on the back of the caliper in line with the piston to ensure the piston is pressed straight in.. This tool avoids that and compresses the piston exactly how it's supposed to be. It's in my cart now. :)
OMg dude! Yesterday I just watched your video on the rear view camera,... and you did this video too! THANK YOU! You rule, you rule, your rule!!!! All I need is to be pointed in the right direction and project are pretty easy for me. ...and you did all the hard work for me ahead of time. Awesome! You have no idea how thankful I am for this.
Nice video, but a couple of errors in procedure: 1. When removing caliper slide pin bolts, use a 17 mm wrench to hold the pin from turning which damages the rubber boots. 2. When installing the caliper pins, NEVER tighten, torque, or hammer the pin backing bolts as done in this video. Use a 17 mm open wrench to hold them and torque the retaining bolt to spec. (See Honda Service Manual)
Thanks for letting us know that the retaining screws are unnecessary. I've spent way too much time getting those off in the past. From now on I'm drilling the heads off!
Very helpful video - thanks! I was sailing along with this project until I ran into the stuck-screw issue. I solved it with a shot of PB Blaster and waiting 30 minutes for it to work its magic.
Thanks for making this video. made my life easier today. those darn rotor screws didnt though. brand new impact screwdriver and it shattered one of the bits. but ended up drilling out that one, rest came out easy enough.
Top notch video start to finish. Useful tips throughout. Saved me a bundle of cash doing it myself v having to take it in, wait, pay %150 premium on parts...
Great video which captures the details very well. Great job explaining. Thank you for putting this up. I have a 2005 Odyssey that I am getting ready to do brakes on, and your video made this pretty straight forward.
Appreciate the helpful video. You state to reuse the shim on the inner pad, and that the other pad does not require a shim. But the Btakemotive76 ceramic pads come with the "dual layer shim" as part of the package - on both the inner and outer pads. So, I will be shimming both the inner and outer pads with the shims supplied by Brakemotive76.
Rotor hold down screws are soft. If they deform or dont come out after 2-3 tries, drill their heads off. Use a drill bit just a little smaller than the screw head. Saves a lot of time and saves your screwdriver bits. You can leave the stub of the screw in the hub, even if it sticks out. Stay gold.
One note this video was missing that really screwed me up... disengage your parking brake. This video didn't mention it and I broke a pin hammering it while the drum was holding it in place.
Very nicely done video: good camera positioning, narration, and editing. I'm about to do this on mine. In all the years I've done brake jobs on my other cars, I didn't realize that you can separate the caliper and its frame. Then the job is much easier. Easier to to compress the piston with that tool and easier to load the pads. Thanks for the tip!
For my 2012 Odyssey. This is an OUTSTANDING and PROFESSIONAL instructional video!!! Thank you. I truly appreciated the straight forward, by-the-numbers method of teaching which covered everything I needed to get the job done right, the first time, with no unnecessary commentary. Great camera positions and lighting. Thanks again so much & keep up the quality videos! Have you considered doing a parking brake shoe replacement video? I'd love to see your recommendations. Cheers!
+OCregulator Really appreciate the wonderful comment. Parking brakes should last the life of the car as it's never driven while engaged. It's just to hold the car when parked. But if you have to change it, it's same as changing drum brakes. Parking brake is essentially drum brakes.
always feel intimidated when wanted to change brakes. This video provided excellent instruction. Will attempt DIY on my car in the next couple K miles. Thanks for the video. Subscribed.
Great tutorial. Definitely stripped away the mystery of the job. I've got the same model Odyssey, so it was great to find a specialized "how to." Ended up drilling out the factory screws on the front, but the rear must've had some anti-seize or something. Almost bought the Brakemotive rotors, but after some reading on the subject felt that, while they look cool, the drilled and slotted design raises safety concerns I'm not prepared to deal with. Went with some Rockauto rotors with the same PowerStop ceramic pads. Many thanks!
Thanks man! You are the reason why I love my 2005 Honda Odyssey! anytime I need to modify or repair something on it, you've already done it! Thanks again! R.
Just one correction, the tourque specs for the rear caliper pins are 16 ft lbs. You should not tighten them as much as you did. Otherwise great video! Remember to release the parking break to get the rotor off!
@@dial2fast but if you don't know this needs to be (as most people who are watching this video) you could really screw up while trying to remove the rotor. It was really frustrating....
Nice video, clear instructions with good video and audio. However you did not adjust the park brake shoes after the install. With the rotor sliding on that easy I would guess they are backed off along way??
This is really a great tutorial. I have question. In the rear caliper you used sil glyde while the front caliper (in another tutorial) you used the break grease. Any explanation?
Something I do when replacing brake pads is to Squirt a little WD-40 under the puck boot. Although the boot is there the outer puck will still get dry. I do not have to worry about it getting into the brake fluid because there is an o-ring on the puck to prevent this which will get dry over time.
Thank you for the quick reply! I have to do front and back on my 2011_Honda Pilot and I will go with this eBay seller.Thank you for your great videos and helping us youtubers save money!
Wonderful instructions! Always simple, straight forward and down to very details...Appreciate it, bro! Just curious, have you ever tried to replace the front wheel bearings for the Odyssey? I know this is not a simple work. It involves a lot of heavy-duty tools to take off the bad bearings and to install the good ones.
You forgot to mention that if the new rotor was hard to instal they should check the parking brakes adjustment if the previous rotor had been resurfaced they would be expanded too far for the new rotor. Also since the rotor was out to inspect e-brake shoe conditions for fairly even wear, and clean them out.
Why do you add a shim on the inside pad if you already have a shim on the new pad? I change the rear brakes last week and it seems that whatever shims were there were completely rusted out... I'm trying to figure out whether I need to add a shim to the already existing shim on my replacement pads?
My pads didn't come with the "Brake Pad Break-In Procedure". Therefore, I assume because this is 8yrs later that they've improved the manufacturing process so that is no longer required or because the Duralast brand I bought doesn't require it?
When installing the brakes I see that they are contact with that rotors immediately. So when I free hand slim the rotors I can sort of hear them touching the break pad. Is that normal?
Hey what happens if i installed the inner brake pads on the opposite side and now the wear indicator is not on top instead of the bottom but it is on the inner side of the wheel
Another note.. if the 2 screws seisze from head, which happened to me, it is easier to remove the 2 screws that hold disk in place applying 2 wheel lug nuts, applying the emregency pedal brake, and removing the two messed up screws with reversible bit. After removing 2 screws, remove wheel lug nuts, then release emergency brake. Disk should be easy to remove.
Great Video, thanks. One thing to mention though, you'll need to use the parking brake to stop the rear wheels from spinning while removing the lug nuts. You'll need to release the parking brake to get the rear rotors off as the parking brake works similar to a drum brake by gripping the inside of the rotor.
I saw lots of videos that changing the rear brakes and rotors but I don’t see people mention that you have to release the emergency brake or foot brake! Otherwise you will have a hard time to remove the rotors !
Awesome video. I just wanted to know how the rotors worked out for you over the long hall. Personally, I have been extremely disappointed by the OEM rotors as they keep warping. You replay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Great video! I bought 2 full sets of front+rear rotors and pads from Brakemotive76 for 2010 Honda Odyssey and 2005 Toyota Corolla. I replaced the ones on my 2010 Odyssey (front and rear) following your video together with Haynes repair guide book. Overall, everything seems to be working OK but I do have 2 questions that I hope you can help with: 1) The two slide pins in the caliper are slightly different - one with a straight end and the other one with a small rubber busing, close to the tip of the pin. I do not recall if they are the same length or not and was wondering if it matters which one should go on top or bottom of the caliper? 2) The first time I installed the brakes, I made a mistake and installed the outer pad the wrong way (the side with the shim was touching the rotor )... I drove the car for about 1 mile before I realized I made a mistake. I removed the tires and found the error, repeated the entire process by cleaning the entire assembly and re-installed it correctly this time around. The brakes seem to be working fine, I drove ~250 miles so far but do see a groove around the top top of the rotor (which I think was caused by that first mistake). Please advise if I should take the rotor for machining or replace it or just leave it. I can also send you a picture of the rotor if needed.
1) if your slide pin has one with a rubber end and the other doesn't, they are designed to reduce vibration during braking. Depending on the car, I am not sure which one goes on top and which one goes at the bottom. Perhaps search for info on the internet. 2) With the rotor have a groove, you can take it apart and check both rotors and pads to see if there is something causing this problem. If they are fairly new, then you can try to take it to a shop to get the rotors machined. Otherwise, just drive it till you need to replace it next time (assuming the brake works fine). Keep in mind machining rotors will make it thinner and greater chance to rotor warping on some vehicles.
Sorry for the late response. Drill the screw out with a new/sharp 1/4" drill bit and spray some lubricant on the bit. Drill in the middle of the head and straight through it.
i took my cap off the master cylinder when i compressed the drivers caliper piston. I put the cap back on the master cylinder to get the other rotor turned. When I came back I forgot to take the cap off the master cylinder before I compressed the last caliper piston. Will this cause damage ? Master cylinder isn't all the way full.
No damage if you did not remove the cap. The only reason some people remove the cap is just in case the fluid will overflow when you compress the piston.
Donald Murray if the "clamp" you are talking about is the one to compress the caliper piston you can get it at most tool stores like Harbour Freight or Northen Tools. m.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-piston-compressor-68973.html
Really nice video. I've watched several for the Odyssey and yours is the cleanest and most logical. Other guys seem a little more sloppy or winging it. Really excited to do my first brake job and after watching, I think it will be easy! I had read some DIYs on the internet but nothing like a good video....I guess a video is worth 1000 pictures on a DIY! Question - I assume on our Odysseys that the rear caliper piston is not threaded? I was reading something for Accords where someone was saying their rear pistons were threaded and they were trying to compress rather than "retract by turning". It appears you just compressed but I wanted to be sure. Also, I have a C-clamp already. Any reason I need to buy the piston retractor tool that you use in the video or does a c-clamp work equally well? Thanks
Some Hondas have a screw in piston, but on this generation of Ody, its a regular piston you can just push in. I used a C clamp for many years and you can too. Sometimes some specialty tools make the job a bit easier. Have fun with your
the screw in piston retraction is only for brakes with the parking brake mechanism incorporated as part of the disc brake; on this one with the separate drum brake, it's a simple piston setup with no screwing around needed.
One more question regarding the manual impact driver - I have bought a Makita Impact Driver (after damaging the first 2 rotor screws without an impact driver of course...), which has been doing great. I was wondering if I would ever need the manual one in addition to what I already have. In other words, should I also buy the manual one (available for ~$14 from Home Depot)? Thanks again!
Thanks for showing the video, I have a question first I'm going to changed to whole breaks front and rear. I did bought the rotor and the break pads, I noticed the rear pads are larger than the front pads, did the company send the wrong pads? please reply thnks.
The rear pads are not suppose to be larger than the front. Are you sure you are not looking at it wrong where those supposedly rear pads are actually for the front.
It's good practice to, yes. If they are still moving freely you may not have issues, but I prefer to do so every time I change the pads, since it could be a long time until the brakes are serviced again. This is one of the reasons I do my own brakes, as many shops will skip extra steps like that or won't adequately lubricate certain parts.
Hey, great video! Too bad I didn't watch it all before doing the brakes :( I forgot to remove those shims from the old pads and add them to the new pads - should I leave them like this or take everything off and put those?
Thanks again. Mind doing a video of how to adjust the parking brake primarily the foot brake height? Also when doing the rear brakes, you have to leave the parking brake disengaged right?
I haven't really looked into the parking brake adjustment on this Odyssey. Typically, there are 2 adjustments. A nut adjustment right behind the foot brake to adjust tension. Then the rear brake hole I showed in the vid is to also adjust how close the pads to the rotors. Typically you don't need to adjust that since you don't drive with the ebrake on. And 'yes' you disengage the parking brake when removing the rear rotors.
what do you think of the FRONT+REAR DRILLED SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS AND 8 CERAMIC PADS from Breakmotive? The price is right just looking for a review from a reliable source...
These brakes worked fine for several years, but i have since changed them to Centric brakes. Here is the newer video for this install th-cam.com/video/WYKlvq8YdpU/w-d-xo.html
Hello, am Lanre; and I was wondering what type of rotor/brake pad do you sue for your Honda odyssey. The reason for my question is bcos my 2009 odyssey always seem to only do well with OEM only. Any after market brake pad or rotor make it squeak. Now every time a brake it make a hard/tough sound. HELPPPPPPPPPPP PLSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Perfect. No music, no shakey camera, no ego and no BS talk. Great video. Thx,
Thanks for your comment. Glad you like the video!
The day you sell and no longer make videos featuring your Honda Odyssey is a day I will cry. Changed both back and front brakes & rotors yesterday and these videos made the job happen. Thanks a million.
Technology is a beautiful thing
This is a great video. I used your video to do the front brakes a few months ago. One thing I wanted to add that may be common sense for most,,but I am new at this, is that the parking brake needs to be released to remove the rotors. The new floor jack I bought said to put the parking brake on so I did. That kept the rotors in place no matter how hard I whacked them with a hammer, I even tried the screw tip someone mentioned below and that is when I realized the parking brake was still on.
Thank you! Your videos for the front and rear breaks helped me change breaks and rotors for the first time. Your videos gave me enough confidence to do the breaks on the vehicle that carries my entire family. Thank you, again!
+Josh Duncan Very happy to have helped. Best of all, you did the job yourself. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent tutorial - thanks !
I was wondering why the rotor was not coming off, till I realized I had the parking brake on :-)
One safety tip I have found very useful is, if you use only side jack stands (like I do), use the parking brake to stabilize the vehicle against unwanted movements, but don't forget to release it when getting the rotor off.
I was wailing on my rotor trying to get it off. Parking brake was still on. Thank you!
I chock the front wheels so it wont roll forward, I release the jack put pump it up again as a backup. Useful tip on the parking brake. I figure that out myself but could have done with it sooner. Like Dustin, I was hammering on that thing!
I might add that if you are having trouble removing the rotors (as I did) there are two small threaded holes in the rotor. Place a bolt in each hole and gradually tighten each one and the rotor should pop off. Love these Hondas. Thanks for a great video with no air compressors or radio in the background!
Nice call. Those two holes are called jack pin screw holes. Gradually tighten means to tighten one screw a turn and then the other screw a turn. Repeat alternately turning the two screws until the rotor pops loose.
What size are those bolts?
@@dylanshabtai4554 M8 x 1.25, they are all over the car especially under the hood. Be aware, the end of the bolt threads might get mushed while pressing the rotor off. So if you take bolts from under the hood to use as rotor jack screws, take ones that are not critical engine bolts. Best thing is grab some loose ones from the junkyard and keep them with your brake tools.
Stay gold.
To anyone watching do yourself a big favor and pull the slide pins clean and thoroughly but lightly lube with sil glide.dont just poke at them and call it good. Careful with the rubber seal, use two hands one to hold the seal and the other to wiggle out the pin.spray the hole with brake clean and dry with compressed air or a qtip etc.wipe and inspect pin and hole for wear and grease well. Inspect seal and reassemble. Very important step on disk brakes with floating calipers.rears last a long time and grease will cook off and then they freeze and ruin everything. The longevity of rear pads makes this step a must.Also I strongly recommend sil glide as a brake lube it won't harden like some other brands even in hot climates and is a proven non petroleum brake lube safe for the seals etc.most high volume shops and dealerships use it to avoid problems. High performance stuff you can step up to cerami glide.never use petroleum ie wheel bearing grease. Only use brake grease on brakes and stick with sil glide.
Very helpful- thanks
Thanks so much! I hadn't changed brakes for over 2 decades. Your instructions were a huge help! 4:50 I need to remember the brake grease. 9:30 transfer metal plates over
That's a happy kid singing in the background. Well done dad.
THank you! Every year I come back here to refresh my knowledge how to replace rotors on my 2007 Odyssey :) Surprisingly such a simple and quick job! Thank you!
I am glad my video is helpful to you. Have a great week!
Bought the Brakemotive parts for front and rear. Your procedure is very clear and helpful. My only problem was the retaining clips included with rotors and pads. Wasted over 30 minutes with those totally crap clips. Cleaned up the original clips and job was completed quickly by reinstalling the old clips. My box of front and rear rotors and brake pads had no “breakin instructions”, so your final comment was very useful.
The only thing I would add to this great tutorial is this: At 1:40, use a 17 mm spanner to hold plunger boots when removing the 12mm caliper bolts. Said spanner is used at 11:30 when reinstalling caliper. If you don't there is a chance you can twist/tear the plunger boots. Great Job on the video. Thanks
+Ron Dalton Really appreciate your comment.
Finally... A good DIY on 3rd gen Ody brakes!
Thanks for your comment!
man.. you just made my day.. I've been doing my own brake jobs using a c clamp to compress the caliper piston for the last 20 years.. didn't know this little tool existed.. .. especially since the C Clamp works great in almost all brake jobs.. however you usually have to find a spot on the back of the caliper in line with the piston to ensure the piston is pressed straight in..
This tool avoids that and compresses the piston exactly how it's supposed to be. It's in my cart now. :)
Make more videos dude. You actually explain stuff as you go through and i only needed to watch this once
Glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for your comment!
OMg dude! Yesterday I just watched your video on the rear view camera,... and you did this video too! THANK YOU! You rule, you rule, your rule!!!!
All I need is to be pointed in the right direction and project are pretty easy for me. ...and you did all the hard work for me ahead of time. Awesome! You have no idea how thankful I am for this.
+Philip Rode Well, I am glad you find my videos helpful. Don't forget to sub...have a great day!
Nice video, but a couple of errors in procedure: 1. When removing caliper slide pin bolts, use a 17 mm wrench to hold the pin from turning which damages the rubber boots. 2. When installing the caliper pins, NEVER tighten, torque, or hammer the pin backing bolts as done in this video. Use a 17 mm open wrench to hold them and torque the retaining bolt to spec. (See Honda Service Manual)
Thanks for letting us know that the retaining screws are unnecessary. I've spent way too much time getting those off in the past. From now on I'm drilling the heads off!
Very helpful video - thanks! I was sailing along with this project until I ran into the stuck-screw issue. I solved it with a shot of PB Blaster and waiting 30 minutes for it to work its magic.
Very good to hear!
Thanks man! Your videos are incredibly professional and helpful.
Thanks for making this video. made my life easier today. those darn rotor screws didnt though. brand new impact screwdriver and it shattered one of the bits. but ended up drilling out that one, rest came out easy enough.
Top notch video start to finish. Useful tips throughout. Saved me a bundle of cash doing it myself v having to take it in, wait, pay %150 premium on parts...
Great video which captures the details very well. Great job explaining. Thank you for putting this up. I have a 2005 Odyssey that I am getting ready to do brakes on, and your video made this pretty straight forward.
+MrSoulMonk Thanks for your comment!
Very clear instructions. I was able to do this myself with your help! Thanks very much!
+James O'Donohue Thanks for sharing!
@@dial2fast 98ii33ji9j
Appreciate the helpful video. You state to reuse the shim on the inner pad, and that the other pad does not require a shim. But the Btakemotive76 ceramic pads come with the "dual layer shim" as part of the package - on both the inner and outer pads. So, I will be shimming both the inner and outer pads with the shims supplied by Brakemotive76.
Rotor hold down screws are soft. If they deform or dont come out after 2-3 tries, drill their heads off. Use a drill bit just a little smaller than the screw head. Saves a lot of time and saves your screwdriver bits. You can leave the stub of the screw in the hub, even if it sticks out.
Stay gold.
One note this video was missing that really screwed me up... disengage your parking brake. This video didn't mention it and I broke a pin hammering it while the drum was holding it in place.
Lazaro Perez thanks for that
Good reminder, thanks.
I always make that mistake of hammering without checking the emergency brake but not this time!
Same here. Very frustrating...
Very nicely done video: good camera positioning, narration, and editing. I'm about to do this on mine. In all the years I've done brake jobs on my other cars, I didn't realize that you can separate the caliper and its frame. Then the job is much easier. Easier to to compress the piston with that tool and easier to load the pads. Thanks for the tip!
Glad my video was helpful. Thanks for your comment!
Just bought the impact screw driver! Work perfect 👌 !
For my 2012 Odyssey. This is an OUTSTANDING and PROFESSIONAL instructional video!!! Thank you. I truly appreciated the straight forward, by-the-numbers method of
teaching which covered everything I needed to get the job done right,
the first time, with no unnecessary commentary. Great camera positions
and lighting. Thanks again so much & keep
up the quality videos! Have you considered doing a parking brake shoe replacement video? I'd love to see your recommendations. Cheers!
+OCregulator Really appreciate the wonderful comment. Parking brakes should last the life of the car as it's never driven while engaged. It's just to hold the car when parked. But if you have to change it, it's same as changing drum brakes. Parking brake is essentially drum brakes.
so basically just like the front ones....Great videos, need more!
Yes most disk brakes are like this.
dial2fast don't get me wrong, great channel....great videos..
Thank you for the descriptive video. I’ll be doing this project today on the wifey’s Ody.
always feel intimidated when wanted to change brakes. This video provided excellent instruction. Will attempt DIY on my car in the next couple K miles. Thanks for the video. Subscribed.
Nam Nguyen Thanks for your comment and subscribing!
Thanks! All done! Got to use my Old Milwaukee corded impact today.
Thanks for the detailed video. Changed the brakes out without issue!
Very good to hear!
Great tutorial. Definitely stripped away the mystery of the job. I've got the same model Odyssey, so it was great to find a specialized "how to." Ended up drilling out the factory screws on the front, but the rear must've had some anti-seize or something. Almost bought the Brakemotive rotors, but after some reading on the subject felt that, while they look cool, the drilled and slotted design raises safety concerns I'm not prepared to deal with. Went with some Rockauto rotors with the same PowerStop ceramic pads. Many thanks!
+Jonathan Drake Thank you for sharing!
Great video. I too ended up drilling out the factory screws on my 2006 Odyssey, thanks to this video, I was comfortable doing that.
awesome thanks for the video now I know the steps to get the job done you just saved us a pretty penny having taking our van to the dealer
Thanks man! You are the reason why I love my 2005 Honda Odyssey! anytime I need to modify or repair something on it, you've already done it! Thanks again! R.
Just one correction, the tourque specs for the rear caliper pins are 16 ft lbs. You should not tighten them as much as you did. Otherwise great video! Remember to release the parking break to get the rotor off!
Thanks for doing video. It helped a bunch. Really made things pretty easy.
Mike Sobetski Glad my video was helpful!
Great video sir, thank you for sharing your expertise with others, I gotta tackle this same job tomorrow.
Thanks for the video. The only hiccup I encountered with mine was the removal of the rotors. If the e-brake is on you cannot remove the rotors.
scrtchmstj I am glad you got it figured out. Thanks for your comment!
@@dial2fast but if you don't know this needs to be (as most people who are watching this video) you could really screw up while trying to remove the rotor. It was really frustrating....
Nice video, clear instructions with good video and audio. However you did not adjust the park brake shoes after the install. With the rotor sliding on that easy I would guess they are backed off along way??
This is really a great tutorial. I have question. In the rear caliper you used sil glyde while the front caliper (in another tutorial) you used the break grease. Any explanation?
Something I do when replacing brake pads is to Squirt a little WD-40 under the puck boot. Although the boot is there the outer puck will still get dry. I do not have to worry about it getting into the brake fluid because there is an o-ring on the puck to prevent this which will get dry over time.
Thank you for the quick reply! I have to do front and back on my 2011_Honda Pilot and I will go with this eBay seller.Thank you for your great videos and helping us youtubers save money!
Thank you so much for this excellent video. I was able to do the whole job in an hour. Great stuff -- thanks for making.
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND SHARE WHAT YOU KNOW WITH US. YOU REALLY DID A GOOD JOB. WITH IT. I RATE YOUR VIDEO FROM 1 TO 10. A 10
Thanks for your comment!
Good job. See my comments on his other video "Honda Odyssey Front Brake Rotors & Pads Install 2005 - 2010"
I followed all the steps and i even tried some things u mentioned in the video for the front and the pads r just not coming off. Any suggestions?
thanks learn alot from a first timer
Thanks for your comment!
Great video. Very professional. Thanks!
Good video, narration very good, which is hard to find with all the crappy broken english automated speaking computer videos on youtube.
Excellent instructions.
good video well explained thanks it served me a lot congratulations
Thanks for your comment!
Wonderful instructions! Always simple, straight forward and down to very details...Appreciate it, bro!
Just curious, have you ever tried to replace the front wheel bearings for the Odyssey? I know this is not a simple work. It involves a lot of heavy-duty tools to take off the bad bearings and to install the good ones.
No I have not
Also, doesn't the rubber gasket on the piston get ruined with break cleaner?
Missed a step. Did not lubricate the two guide piston cylinders.
You forgot to mention that if the new rotor was hard to instal they should check the parking brakes adjustment if the previous rotor had been resurfaced they would be expanded too far for the new rotor. Also since the rotor was out to inspect e-brake shoe conditions for fairly even wear, and clean them out.
Why do you add a shim on the inside pad if you already have a shim on the new pad? I change the rear brakes last week and it seems that whatever shims were there were completely rusted out... I'm trying to figure out whether I need to add a shim to the already existing shim on my replacement pads?
Could you guys confirm those numbers?
Front brakes:
Caliper bracket to hub: 101 lbf-ft
Caliper sliding pins: 37 lbf-ft
Rear brakes:
Caliper bracket to hub: 65 lbf-ft
Caliper sliding pins: 16 lbf-ft
My pads didn't come with the "Brake Pad Break-In Procedure". Therefore, I assume because this is 8yrs later that they've improved the manufacturing process so that is no longer required or because the Duralast brand I bought doesn't require it?
Yes some brake pads don't need break in. Just install and start driving.
forgot, will you keep that van for a long time or to the ground, you must be a patient person and mechanic?
Thank You
That help me alot to do my car brakes
When installing the brakes I see that they are contact with that rotors immediately. So when I free hand slim the rotors I can sort of hear them touching the break pad. Is that normal?
Please do a good review video on this upgrade. Is it worth it?
Excellent. Thank you.
Hey what happens if i installed the inner brake pads on the opposite side and now the wear indicator is not on top instead of the bottom but it is on the inner side of the wheel
Another note.. if the 2 screws seisze from head, which happened to me, it is easier to remove the 2 screws that hold disk in place applying 2 wheel lug nuts, applying the emregency pedal brake, and removing the two messed up screws with reversible bit. After removing 2 screws, remove wheel lug nuts, then release emergency brake. Disk should be easy to remove.
Thank you. Very helpful.
I Usually Don't Clean The Brake Hardware I Replace Every Time I Change The Pads.
Thanks so much great Video....!
Great Video, thanks. One thing to mention though, you'll need to use the parking brake to stop the rear wheels from spinning while removing the lug nuts. You'll need to release the parking brake to get the rear rotors off as the parking brake works similar to a drum brake by gripping the inside of the rotor.
Best practice is to loosen the lug nuts before jacking up the vehicle while the tires are on the ground. No need to set the parking brake at all.
Not if you have an impact.
@@overclockxp best suggestion!
I saw lots of videos that changing the rear brakes and rotors but I don’t see people mention that you have to release the emergency brake or foot brake! Otherwise you will have a hard time to remove the rotors !
Great video. Thanks a lot.
Awesome video. I just wanted to know how the rotors worked out for you over the long hall. Personally, I have been extremely disappointed by the OEM rotors as they keep warping. You replay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The OEM rotors/pads are awful. They warp and noisy. I run these Brakemotive setup on both my cars for the past 5-6 years, no problem.
Thank you for the response. I'll give them a shot....
I am about to install OEM rotors I got at Autozone. Should I exchange them for a different kind? I would buy online but need them now.
Great video thank you
Great video! I bought 2 full sets of front+rear rotors and pads from Brakemotive76 for 2010 Honda Odyssey and 2005 Toyota Corolla. I replaced the ones on my 2010 Odyssey (front and rear) following your video together with Haynes repair guide book.
Overall, everything seems to be working OK but I do have 2 questions that I hope you can help with:
1) The two slide pins in the caliper are slightly different - one with a straight end and the other one with a small rubber busing, close to the tip of the pin. I do not recall if they are the same length or not and was wondering if it matters which one should go on top or bottom of the caliper?
2) The first time I installed the brakes, I made a mistake and installed the outer pad the wrong way (the side with the shim was touching the rotor )... I drove the car for about 1 mile before I realized I made a mistake. I removed the tires and found the error, repeated the entire process by cleaning the entire assembly and re-installed it correctly this time around. The brakes seem to be working fine, I drove ~250 miles so far but do see a groove around the top top of the rotor (which I think was caused by that first mistake). Please advise if I should take the rotor for machining or replace it or just leave it. I can also send you a picture of the rotor if needed.
1) if your slide pin has one with a rubber end and the other doesn't, they are designed to reduce vibration during braking. Depending on the car, I am not sure which one goes on top and which one goes at the bottom. Perhaps search for info on the internet.
2) With the rotor have a groove, you can take it apart and check both rotors and pads to see if there is something causing this problem. If they are fairly new, then you can try to take it to a shop to get the rotors machined. Otherwise, just drive it till you need to replace it next time (assuming the brake works fine). Keep in mind machining rotors will make it thinner and greater chance to rotor warping on some vehicles.
Wow!!!!! great video. You are good instructor.. Thanks
Thanks for your comment
Thank you very much.
Hello, ho do I safely drill out those 2 Phillips Screws at home if they are rusted ?
What tools?
Please let me know.
Thanks.
Sorry for the late response. Drill the screw out with a new/sharp 1/4" drill bit and spray some lubricant on the bit. Drill in the middle of the head and straight through it.
i took my cap off the master cylinder when i compressed the drivers caliper piston. I put the cap back on the master cylinder to get the other rotor turned. When I came back I forgot to take the cap off the master cylinder before I compressed the last caliper piston. Will this cause damage ? Master cylinder isn't all the way full.
No damage if you did not remove the cap. The only reason some people remove the cap is just in case the fluid will overflow when you compress the piston.
Wow, l install the same rotors and original Honda brakes from eBay, but what the name of that small clamp u using and where can I purchase it. Thanks.
Donald Murray if the "clamp" you are talking about is the one to compress the caliper piston you can get it at most tool stores like Harbour Freight or Northen Tools. m.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-piston-compressor-68973.html
I used normal C clamp from home Depot, I think it was 6/7 bucks. Worked like a charm
Really nice video. I've watched several for the Odyssey and yours is the cleanest and most logical. Other guys seem a little more sloppy or winging it. Really excited to do my first brake job and after watching, I think it will be easy! I had read some DIYs on the internet but nothing like a good video....I guess a video is worth 1000 pictures on a DIY!
Question - I assume on our Odysseys that the rear caliper piston is not threaded? I was reading something for Accords where someone was saying their rear pistons were threaded and they were trying to compress rather than "retract by turning". It appears you just compressed but I wanted to be sure. Also, I have a C-clamp already. Any reason I need to buy the piston retractor tool that you use in the video or does a c-clamp work equally well?
Thanks
Some Hondas have a screw in piston, but on this generation of Ody, its a regular piston you can just push in. I used a C clamp for many years and you can too. Sometimes some specialty tools make the job a bit easier. Have fun with your
the screw in piston retraction is only for brakes with the parking brake mechanism incorporated as part of the disc brake; on this one with the separate drum brake, it's a simple piston setup with no screwing around needed.
Great video!
One more question regarding the manual impact driver - I have bought a Makita Impact Driver (after damaging the first 2 rotor screws without an impact driver of course...), which has been doing great. I was wondering if I would ever need the manual one in addition to what I already have. In other words, should I also buy the manual one (available for ~$14 from Home Depot)?
Thanks again!
I use the harbor freight impact driver (manual). A regular power type impact driver will do almost nothing to loosen the screws if they are stuck.
Thanks for showing the video, I have a question first I'm going to changed to whole breaks front and rear. I did bought the rotor and the break pads, I noticed the rear pads are larger than the front pads, did the company send the wrong pads? please reply thnks.
The rear pads are not suppose to be larger than the front. Are you sure you are not looking at it wrong where those supposedly rear pads are actually for the front.
Thanks again dial2fast..
Excellent thank you
So you don’t have to bleed the brakes when you replace the pads and rotors?
You don't have to unless you have air in the line, or the fluid is very old and needs to be changed, or you just want to.
Don't you have to grease the slide pins?
It's good practice to, yes. If they are still moving freely you may not have issues, but I prefer to do so every time I change the pads, since it could be a long time until the brakes are serviced again. This is one of the reasons I do my own brakes, as many shops will skip extra steps like that or won't adequately lubricate certain parts.
Hey, great video! Too bad I didn't watch it all before doing the brakes :( I forgot to remove those shims from the old pads and add them to the new pads - should I leave them like this or take everything off and put those?
i did the same thing yesterday. was hoping for an answer as well
Great video !!!!!
Hello I have a question do you know how pound ir ft I torque tight spark plug honda odyssey 06
Thanks again. Mind doing a video of how to adjust the parking brake primarily the foot brake height? Also when doing the rear brakes, you have to leave the parking brake disengaged right?
I haven't really looked into the parking brake adjustment on this Odyssey. Typically, there are 2 adjustments. A nut adjustment right behind the foot brake to adjust tension. Then the rear brake hole I showed in the vid is to also adjust how close the pads to the rotors. Typically you don't need to adjust that since you don't drive with the ebrake on. And 'yes' you disengage the parking brake when removing the rear rotors.
Thanks for the video! Any chance u could post the ebay link where you bought the pads/rotors set?
Search for Ebay seller Brakemotive76
Great Video! Thanks. Do you know if it's the same for a 2013 Odyssey?
Yes, pretty much the same.
what do you think of the FRONT+REAR DRILLED SLOTTED BRAKE ROTORS AND 8 CERAMIC PADS from Breakmotive? The price is right just looking for a review from a reliable source...
they're good brakes but the Problem I had with them I would glaze them but I drive hard so yeah
How have the brakes been? Are they worth the extra money? Any issue braking on snow/ice vs stock brakes? Thank you!
These brakes worked fine for several years, but i have since changed them to Centric brakes. Here is the newer video for this install th-cam.com/video/WYKlvq8YdpU/w-d-xo.html
At 3:57, when you take the rotor off, there are brake shoes there, not brake pads.... what up with that??? What does that vehicle have.... David P.
Your rear brake has both a disc brake and drum brake combo. The drum brake is your parking brake.
Hello, am Lanre; and I was wondering what type of rotor/brake pad do you sue for your Honda odyssey. The reason for my question is bcos my 2009 odyssey always seem to only do well with OEM only. Any after market brake pad or rotor make it squeak.
Now every time a brake it make a hard/tough sound. HELPPPPPPPPPPP PLSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
See parts link in description.