It's interesting working with new materials, for the strengthening of thme rear fuselage I used an old car aerial, this was good because it tapered towards the rear end. I mounted my rudder and elevator servos right at the rear end which saved worrying about long push rods, but there's so many ways to build these aeroplanes there isn't a right or wrong way 👍🙂
It is different and also fun. But balsa is still the best for me ;) The aerial is a good idea. I have some old radio aerial lying around waiting to be repurposed ;) Thx for keeping up the inspiration!
Actually there are usually a few "wrong ways" Cliff. I do think that our mate might be using 1 of them here. I may be wrong (often am! 😉) but our experience with these is to put the tail servos at the rear end. Even with a very light build you are usually struggling to get the COG far enough back. Also bamboo skewers are probably a better bet as fuse strengthening rods - and you can overlap/splice them to go along the fuselage curve better. (Suit the builder's usual preference for wood also. 😊) Best practice is to chose your components, check and mark the COG on the glider in stock form, dump the bolt/ball bearings, tape your bits to the frame, check the balance and move things about to get the COG back towards the marked points. 1 motor (on a tractor) just has to go way out the front (2 smaller motors on the wings are almost certainly going to cause less imbalance than 1 larger motor hanging way out from the nose! Also the smaller ESCs required can be embedded in the wings - run cooler there.) After that move down through the lower weight components, removing foam and reinforcing the remnant foam as he has done. (But again bamboo is generally stronger and more flexible for the weight than balsa.) You can keep shifting the tail servos as you go - they have a big effect because of their distance from the COG. If you can manage it the battery is best fitted in at as near to the COG as possible - allows for different size/weight batteries without disturbing the COG position too much. As suggested on an earlier video the light build by "Wedkarski Kanal" @Peterek1977 would be a good starting point - no carbon reinforcing at all! Then your mate bobflyman's designs and later "Bavarian RC"'s beautiful twin hotrod build. Actually these Dutch guys have some really strange (and FAST) adaptions. 😄 www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/playtive-xl-glider-lidl.252224/page-5
@@theoztreecrasher2647 Wow a lot of topics! Servos in the tail: I followed the Barron's guidance. I also did not want to weaken the tail. The bamboo skewers --> great idea (and cheaper). CoG, I was trying to build as close to the CoG as I could to reduce need for weight. You might well be right that it can end up nose heavy. And yes, I forgot to mark the CoG before disassembling it. I am toying with the idea of smaller motors and ESCs to go multimotor some day. Any recommendations are welcome! Thank you for all the great points as always!
If you have a 6 channel receiver. You dont need a Y cable. Plug one servo in the ail channel and the other in aux or gear channel. Then use the mixer in the transmitter.
That does indeed sound logical now that you say it. I would need to learn how to do all the configuration (which is part of the challenge) but it would save clutter and weight. Thx for the tip!
It's interesting working with new materials, for the strengthening of thme rear fuselage I used an old car aerial, this was good because it tapered towards the rear end. I mounted my rudder and elevator servos right at the rear end which saved worrying about long push rods, but there's so many ways to build these aeroplanes there isn't a right or wrong way 👍🙂
It is different and also fun. But balsa is still the best for me ;) The aerial is a good idea. I have some old radio aerial lying around waiting to be repurposed ;)
Thx for keeping up the inspiration!
Actually there are usually a few "wrong ways" Cliff. I do think that our mate might be using 1 of them here. I may be wrong (often am! 😉) but our experience with these is to put the tail servos at the rear end. Even with a very light build you are usually struggling to get the COG far enough back. Also bamboo skewers are probably a better bet as fuse strengthening rods - and you can overlap/splice them to go along the fuselage curve better. (Suit the builder's usual preference for wood also. 😊)
Best practice is to chose your components, check and mark the COG on the glider in stock form, dump the bolt/ball bearings, tape your bits to the frame, check the balance and move things about to get the COG back towards the marked points. 1 motor (on a tractor) just has to go way out the front (2 smaller motors on the wings are almost certainly going to cause less imbalance than 1 larger motor hanging way out from the nose! Also the smaller ESCs required can be embedded in the wings - run cooler there.) After that move down through the lower weight components, removing foam and reinforcing the remnant foam as he has done. (But again bamboo is generally stronger and more flexible for the weight than balsa.) You can keep shifting the tail servos as you go - they have a big effect because of their distance from the COG.
If you can manage it the battery is best fitted in at as near to the COG as possible - allows for different size/weight batteries without disturbing the COG position too much.
As suggested on an earlier video the light build by "Wedkarski Kanal" @Peterek1977 would be a good starting point - no carbon reinforcing at all! Then your mate bobflyman's designs and later "Bavarian RC"'s beautiful twin hotrod build. Actually these Dutch guys have some really strange (and FAST) adaptions. 😄
www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/playtive-xl-glider-lidl.252224/page-5
@@theoztreecrasher2647 Wow a lot of topics!
Servos in the tail: I followed the Barron's guidance. I also did not want to weaken the tail.
The bamboo skewers --> great idea (and cheaper).
CoG, I was trying to build as close to the CoG as I could to reduce need for weight. You might well be right that it can end up nose heavy. And yes, I forgot to mark the CoG before disassembling it.
I am toying with the idea of smaller motors and ESCs to go multimotor some day. Any recommendations are welcome!
Thank you for all the great points as always!
Tape 1 of your antennas along the fuselage and 1 along the wing then use your Tx antenna fairly horizontal. Should give you pretty good reception.
That is a very good point. It would get them out of the servos and improve reception!
If you have a 6 channel receiver. You dont need a Y cable. Plug one servo in the ail channel and the other in aux or gear channel. Then use the mixer in the transmitter.
That does indeed sound logical now that you say it. I would need to learn how to do all the configuration (which is part of the challenge) but it would save clutter and weight. Thx for the tip!
Its easy with the tx16.
Здравствуйте. Вы можете рекомендовать магазин, где можно купить такой планер?
Eta Lidl. Mezinarodne Nemecky magazin. Toze lidl online. cnacu6a!
That’s an awfully big motor and ESC. I know you’ve heard this from me a lot, but You need to save that setup for a much larger model.