This video is great! The cadence of your instructions, the step-by-step breakdown, and providing a detailed "why" behind adjusting the preload are all extremely helpful. Thank you! Just subscribed! 🙏🙏
Wow, finally somebody on TH-cam who actually explains this in an understandable way. Thank you so much for this 🙏 Been struggling with the preload on my GT, not knowing how to measure it correctly and what the percentages are for a good adjustment. Will do this next weekend and hope for improvements in handling. Thanks again.
@Paul Musiclist Thanks for the awesome comment. I'm glad the video helped. On my INT650 I ended up putting the preload one notch above the softest setting. This put my static sag right at 8.5mm with one line under full on the fuel gauge. The bike is comfortable over large bumps now and the steering is much better. I had a major oversteer on the softest setting. 3rd notch handles even better but is noticeably bumpy at steady slower speeds. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 what is your weight? I'm hoping I don't have to do the trial and error method and just set the preload exactly like someone who weighs about the same as I do! I'm around 88 to 89 kgs geared up.
I appreciate how clear and concise you are in explaining things. Unfortunately I don’t completely understand the measurement part, the millimeters etc. But that’s OK that’s my responsibility, I’ll get someone to help me figure it out. Thank you very much for this information, you are one of the few people (TH-camrs) that I truly enjoy learning from. Keep posting, please.
@Michelle Friend Thanks for the comment. I'll try to simplify it for you. The weight of the bike and the weight of the rider compresses the shocks.(makes them shorter) You measure how much the shock compresses from fully extended in millimeters. This is called the sag. So, I am trying to get the free sag, in millimeters, to equal 10% of the shocks rated travel. (88mm shock travel x 10%= 8.8mm) And the rider sag to equal 30% of the shocks rated travel. (88mm shock travel x 30%=26.4mm) To adjust this you tighten or loosen the preload until the sag measurement is where you want it. Tightening the preload raises the spring seat, which raises the spring tension, and this raises the height of the bike. (less sag) Loosening the preload lowers the spring seat, which lowers the spring tension, and the height of the bike. (more sag) I hope this helps. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Man, that is the cleanest and smartest looking Interceptor I've ever seen. My compliments to you on both your bike and this very simple to understand way of setting up the rear shocks. You've helped me out a lot, and I sincerely thank you for that. I've just subscribed and look forward to more of your vids. Great stuff!!
@rover100bunson Thanks for the comment. Glad you like the video. I had to figure something out since I don't have a helper most days. I thought this video might help other people working alone. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Thanks. I see a lot of videos of people upgrading front and back suspension on the INT. I’m curious how much of a difference that makes. It’s not cheap and just want to know before I do it.
While adjusting the rear shocks will have a small but noticeable affect on the front fork rake angle that rake angle is easy enough brought back to where it was prior to adjusting the rear shocks (or greater or less if that's what you want) by sliding the fork tubes in the triple clamp e.g. lowering the rear increases fork rake angle (makes the bike more directionally stable), the agile nature of the bike can be restored by sliding the forks up into the triple clamp (lowering the front of the bike). My experience with the Royal Enfield 650 is fitting 30mm shorter rear shocks makes the bike much less nervous (which I like), restoring the rake angle by lowing the front gets the handling back to where it was before the rear shocks were replaced with shorter ones.
@Dogphlap Thanks for the comment. I don't want the bike lower. With my height, too low is uncomfortable for me. The affect from the fork angle on my bike was very noticeable. Lowest preload setting in back doesn't work for me either. I had to take the preload up to the third notch to get the sag right for my weight. Wow. What a difference. The bike responds incredibly well and the major bumps don't kill my back anymore. Before, the rear would sit bad when accelerating from a stop and that would drift me left or right. It takes off straight as an arrow now. It also had a pretty significant oversteer. Barely pushing the bars in a long curve would take me over way too far. I set the sag to Ohlins recommendations and the bike is smoother than ever. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the reply. I'm very short. If you raise the rear of the bike, raising the front by adjusting the fork position in the triple clamps is limited to another 10mm before the top of the forks is flush with the top clamp casting (at least it was on my bike when I received it from the dealer). Still even just 10mm will change the handling a lot.
Been wondering how to do this solo, thanks! I like your videos and am interested to see where you take your Interceptor. I've done a fair few mods to mine. I even compete in state drag racing championships on it. You should check out Revelry Racing's 965cc Royal Enfield GT drag bike. It's pretty cool! Cheers!
@Neo Anderson I'm glad to hear the video helped. That's cool about the GT drag bike. I'll check it out. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 sorry, bit lazy of me not to leave a link. First one is a video shot by Royal Enfield Australia, 2nd is a sequence of still shots taken later, after 'RevElation' was painted. th-cam.com/video/C9l1nbyU-6s/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/i6Vq1IQSy_c/w-d-xo.html Keep up the good work!
Hey, thanks for this. I have the same YSS setup as you, and after installation, I thought my preload was way too hard. I followed the method you showed in the video and my rider sag is just over 50% of travel - meaning I need to increase the pre-load! That doesn’t seem right. Are you sure the recommendation from race teams isn’t just meant for the track- a perfectly smooth surface with no pot holes or speed bumps?
@Nick Collyer Thanks for the comment. The setup I show is a recommended way for street and track. Lots of people do it this way. You could change settings for each (track and street) but the adjustments wouldn't be huge. You're talking millimeters different. If you like the suspension the way it is don't mess with it. I like a stiffer suspension that feels smooth and isn't mushy. I'm also looking for the best handling, with no under or over steer (preload has a big affect on this). 50% rider sag is a bit much. That means the shocks are already at 50% of the full travel just when you sit on the bike. If you really get on the throttle the suspension is gonna sit more and if you hit a good bump the shocks might bottom out. You never want the shocks to bottom out. That's how they get damaged. Also, just because race tracks look perfectly smooth, they're not. Some tracks are better than others but they all have their flaws. Coming over a fast hill into a transition to flat makes the suspension sink a lot more than you'd think too. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 i’ll have to do it again - I suspect it’s my measurements that are the problem, not your recommendations 🤣 i’m not a heavy guy - about 160 pounds - so something’s not rite
@morri03 Sorry for the late reply. I ended up putting the preload one notch up from the softest setting and the static sag is right at 8.5mm with one line under full on the fuel gauge. I was going for something close to 8.8mm so this is perfect. For the rider sag I am right at 26mm when I'm close to the tank. A very slight movement back on the seat put me at 26.5mm. I was shooting for 26.4 so again it's right on. The bike handles unbelievably well now. I did put the preload on the 3rd notch just to see the difference. It actually handled a little better than the 2nd notch but it had a bit of a bounce to it. Probably a great track setup but I like the 2nd notch for the street. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
If I remember it correctly you can put 200kg/440 lb on this bike. As rider with passenger and luggage I should almost reach the maximum. Does this mean I could also just simply go for the highest setting in pre load or is my logic flawed?
@- waz - Actually, the max payload (including rider) is 187kg/412 lb. The highest preload setting changes a lot more than just the stiffness of the spring. It will have a big affect on handling. Cornering, and over/under steering will be different on each setting. I can't say use the highest setting and everything will be good. I'd be lying. You would need to go through and find a comfortable setting for yourself. Highest setting might still be too stiff with max payload. I'm not sure. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
@@my-enfield612 thank you for your feedback. I am still on the default setting since I am fairly new to motorcycles an my RE 650 is my first bike. So I am unsure what would be the best setting; trying to improve it and not make it worse. Then I guess I just start with 50% and increase it step by step.
You are a natural born teacher, bro
Damn.. This is one of the simplest and most understandable videos about preload adjustment I've come across.
Thank you so much.
This video is great!
The cadence of your instructions, the step-by-step breakdown, and providing a detailed "why" behind adjusting the preload are all extremely helpful.
Thank you! Just subscribed!
🙏🙏
Wow, finally somebody on TH-cam who actually explains this in an understandable way. Thank you so much for this 🙏 Been struggling with the preload on my GT, not knowing how to measure it correctly and what the percentages are for a good adjustment. Will do this next weekend and hope for improvements in handling.
Thanks again.
@Paul Musiclist Thanks for the awesome comment. I'm glad the video helped. On my INT650 I ended up putting the preload one notch above the softest setting. This put my static sag right at 8.5mm with one line under full on the fuel gauge. The bike is comfortable over large bumps now and the steering is much better. I had a major oversteer on the softest setting. 3rd notch handles even better but is noticeably bumpy at steady slower speeds. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 what is your weight? I'm hoping I don't have to do the trial and error method and just set the preload exactly like someone who weighs about the same as I do! I'm around 88 to 89 kgs geared up.
@@banestock Thanks for the comment. I weigh 155 pounds. The setting I used might be a little soft for your weight. Thanks for watching.
Excellent explanation! Thank you 🙌
Clear and concise. The string measuring method is pure genius! Good work!
I appreciate how clear and concise you are in explaining things. Unfortunately I don’t completely understand the measurement part, the millimeters etc. But that’s OK that’s my responsibility, I’ll get someone to help me figure it out. Thank you very much for this information, you are one of the few people (TH-camrs) that I truly enjoy learning from. Keep posting, please.
@Michelle Friend Thanks for the comment. I'll try to simplify it for you. The weight of the bike and the weight of the rider compresses the shocks.(makes them shorter) You measure how much the shock compresses from fully extended in millimeters. This is called the sag. So, I am trying to get the free sag, in millimeters, to equal 10% of the shocks rated travel. (88mm shock travel x 10%= 8.8mm) And the rider sag to equal 30% of the shocks rated travel. (88mm shock travel x 30%=26.4mm) To adjust this you tighten or loosen the preload until the sag measurement is where you want it. Tightening the preload raises the spring seat, which raises the spring tension, and this raises the height of the bike. (less sag) Loosening the preload lowers the spring seat, which lowers the spring tension, and the height of the bike. (more sag) I hope this helps. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 yes it does. Thank you for taking the time to break it into simpler terms.
@@my-enfield612 so good. thanks!
Man, that is the cleanest and smartest looking Interceptor I've ever seen. My compliments to you on both your bike and this very simple to understand way of setting up the rear shocks. You've helped me out a lot, and I sincerely thank you for that. I've just subscribed and look forward to more of your vids. Great stuff!!
The cleanest Interceptor ever
@guri131 Thank you very much. I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching.
Wow! Impressive knowledge, explanation and demonstration. Thank you, sir!
Thank you for the clarity! This helps so much, and great measuring technique
nicely presented and intelligent way of setting up, thanks
@rover100bunson Thanks for the comment. Glad you like the video. I had to figure something out since I don't have a helper most days. I thought this video might help other people working alone. Thanks for watching.
Very good system for solo adjustments
easy and quick way to do it yourself thanks
Excellent !
Great video thanks for shining the light on the dark art of suspension set up 👍
@Richard Whittle I'm glad you like the video. Hope it helps. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 👍
Thanks a ton
Great video!
Excellent and informative video, thank you.
@vsoflondon Thank you very much. I'm glad you like the video. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Genius!!!
Great video! Thanks.
I see a lot of videos of people upgrading front and back suspension on the INT. I’m curious how much of a difference that makes. It’s not cheap and just want to know before I do it.
Cheers!
@Chris Pulman Thank you. I appreciate the comments. Thanks again for watching.
While adjusting the rear shocks will have a small but noticeable affect on the front fork rake angle that rake angle is easy enough brought back to where it was prior to adjusting the rear shocks (or greater or less if that's what you want) by sliding the fork tubes in the triple clamp e.g. lowering the rear increases fork rake angle (makes the bike more directionally stable), the agile nature of the bike can be restored by sliding the forks up into the triple clamp (lowering the front of the bike). My experience with the Royal Enfield 650 is fitting 30mm shorter rear shocks makes the bike much less nervous (which I like), restoring the rake angle by lowing the front gets the handling back to where it was before the rear shocks were replaced with shorter ones.
@Dogphlap Thanks for the comment. I don't want the bike lower. With my height, too low is uncomfortable for me. The affect from the fork angle on my bike was very noticeable. Lowest preload setting in back doesn't work for me either. I had to take the preload up to the third notch to get the sag right for my weight. Wow. What a difference. The bike responds incredibly well and the major bumps don't kill my back anymore. Before, the rear would sit bad when accelerating from a stop and that would drift me left or right. It takes off straight as an arrow now. It also had a pretty significant oversteer. Barely pushing the bars in a long curve would take me over way too far. I set the sag to Ohlins recommendations and the bike is smoother than ever. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the reply.
I'm very short.
If you raise the rear of the bike, raising the front by adjusting the fork position in the triple clamps is limited to another 10mm before the top of the forks is flush with the top clamp casting (at least it was on my bike when I received it from the dealer). Still even just 10mm will change the handling a lot.
Been wondering how to do this solo, thanks!
I like your videos and am interested to see where you take your Interceptor. I've done a fair few mods to mine. I even compete in state drag racing championships on it. You should check out Revelry Racing's 965cc Royal Enfield GT drag bike. It's pretty cool!
Cheers!
@Neo Anderson I'm glad to hear the video helped. That's cool about the GT drag bike. I'll check it out. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 sorry, bit lazy of me not to leave a link. First one is a video shot by Royal Enfield Australia, 2nd is a sequence of still shots taken later, after 'RevElation' was painted.
th-cam.com/video/C9l1nbyU-6s/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/i6Vq1IQSy_c/w-d-xo.html
Keep up the good work!
3:57 - You seem to have your feet on the ground and therefore taking some weight off the bike. Does that matter? Cheers
Hi, what's happening with the engine mods ???
Thanks for the video, how heavy are you?
@hao huynh I weigh 155 lbs. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Hey, thanks for this. I have the same YSS setup as you, and after installation, I thought my preload was way too hard. I followed the method you showed in the video and my rider sag is just over 50% of travel - meaning I need to increase the pre-load! That doesn’t seem right. Are you sure the recommendation from race teams isn’t just meant for the track- a perfectly smooth surface with no pot holes or speed bumps?
@Nick Collyer Thanks for the comment. The setup I show is a recommended way for street and track. Lots of people do it this way. You could change settings for each (track and street) but the adjustments wouldn't be huge. You're talking millimeters different. If you like the suspension the way it is don't mess with it. I like a stiffer suspension that feels smooth and isn't mushy. I'm also looking for the best handling, with no under or over steer (preload has a big affect on this). 50% rider sag is a bit much. That means the shocks are already at 50% of the full travel just when you sit on the bike. If you really get on the throttle the suspension is gonna sit more and if you hit a good bump the shocks might bottom out. You never want the shocks to bottom out. That's how they get damaged. Also, just because race tracks look perfectly smooth, they're not. Some tracks are better than others but they all have their flaws. Coming over a fast hill into a transition to flat makes the suspension sink a lot more than you'd think too. Thanks again for the comment and thanks for watching.
@@my-enfield612 i’ll have to do it again - I suspect it’s my measurements that are the problem, not your recommendations 🤣 i’m not a heavy guy - about 160 pounds - so something’s not rite
So what did you end up for preload for correct static sag? How much fuel did you have on board?
@morri03 Sorry for the late reply. I ended up putting the preload one notch up from the softest setting and the static sag is right at 8.5mm with one line under full on the fuel gauge. I was going for something close to 8.8mm so this is perfect. For the rider sag I am right at 26mm when I'm close to the tank. A very slight movement back on the seat put me at 26.5mm. I was shooting for 26.4 so again it's right on. The bike handles unbelievably well now. I did put the preload on the 3rd notch just to see the difference. It actually handled a little better than the 2nd notch but it had a bit of a bounce to it. Probably a great track setup but I like the 2nd notch for the street. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
If I remember it correctly you can put 200kg/440 lb on this bike. As rider with passenger and luggage I should almost reach the maximum. Does this mean I could also just simply go for the highest setting in pre load or is my logic flawed?
@- waz - Actually, the max payload (including rider) is 187kg/412 lb. The highest preload setting changes a lot more than just the stiffness of the spring. It will have a big affect on handling. Cornering, and over/under steering will be different on each setting. I can't say use the highest setting and everything will be good. I'd be lying. You would need to go through and find a comfortable setting for yourself. Highest setting might still be too stiff with max payload. I'm not sure. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching
@@my-enfield612 thank you for your feedback. I am still on the default setting since I am fairly new to motorcycles an my RE 650 is my first bike. So I am unsure what would be the best setting; trying to improve it and not make it worse. Then I guess I just start with 50% and increase it step by step.
i did not understand what u said in the last :/ it would be better if u show the marking. whats 30% 🙄
Haha same! My brain went to mush. I'm terrible at math tho
I keep listening to the doom and gloom but nothing is happening