Gunpla for beginners Pt 3 (Panel Lining)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- We go over how to sinply panel line your kit to bring out its details. In this one we will be using Gundam fine tip panel lining marks that you can pick up at just about any hobby shop. For updates on coming videos and wip projects follow me on twitter. link bellow.
Twitter: / kyletoon1
Your videos are incredibly easy to follow and comprehensive. I appreciate all your hard work.
Thank you. I'm glad you like the content. I try to make things as simple and straightforward as possible for people.
I’m new to the hobby and yes he does.
GM01 (Black)
blue & dark color parts
GM02 (Gray)
white & light gray color parts
GM03 (Brown)
red, orange, & yellow color parts
Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color definitely makes things a little more complicated for beginners. So I would suggest the regular Gundam Markers for panel lining.
Another quick tip is that less is more in this situation. You don't necessarily want to have super thick & bold panel lines on your kit.
@xxnike0629xx surely you copy pasted from other Gunpla sites ...
@xxnike0629xx have you even tried panel lining? LUL
This is like peering into an alternate timeline where Bob Ross built cool robots. Good stuff
I know right? His voice is so soothing and friendly.
So, the bit about Tamiya panel liner is a bit of a wives' tale. If enamel wash pools inside of snapped together parts, it can't dry properly, and make the plastic very brittle (this impacts both PS and ABS plastic). Moreover, ABS plastic is much more prone to damage than PS plastic is with enamel wash. I myself panel line on bare plastic with Tamiya panel liner, but I do them on the sprues, and only on PS plastic. I've never had a problem. And, you can clean it up easily with Zippo fluid that you can buy at any gas station or smoke shop.
Trust me, if you use enamel wash as panel liner smartly, the payoff is much better than markers ever could be. Just make sure you use that stuff in a well ventilated area, or wear an N95 mask or something, those fumes are toxic.
Oh one more thing, you can tell what material the sprues are made of in the instruction manual, and the sprues themselves are also clearly marked with the material as well.
Your voice is so relaxing and the pace of these videos is very reassuring. I thought I was going so slow
I'm glad you enjoy the videos and they are of some help to you. And when it comes to building, you build how you like. I don't ever rush, takes the joy out of it for me. So just take your time and enjoy the build.
This video answered every question I had about using the enamel panel liner but not fully painting. Awesome, subscribed :)
I like your style of videos! Thanks for the guides!
I have never done the eraser method before. Think I I should try that method next I finish my kit.
The regular Gundam Markers are pretty good. There are also ink markers that work like the Tamiya stuff does (without weakening the plastic) that are fantastic, highly recommend.
What are the ink markers called?
Thanks for sharing. Highly appreciated. 😊
great video, very helpful and also borderline ASMR lol. you have an awesome voice!
2:30 So I was a bit confused about the things you said a little after the time stamp.
I’m a beginner, and I’m planning on panel lining one of my kits soon. I aim to panel line with some fine tip Gundam markers, use isopropyl alcohol & q-tips to clean, then apply top coat right afterwards once everything is dry.
Is that a reasonable way to approach this?
I'm a beginner as well, but that's pretty much what I got from it. The Isopropyl Alcohol is a good cleaning method as long as you haven't already painted or clear coated your kit since the alcohol will eat away at it. However, you can clear coat the kit after the alcohol has fully dried.
Sorry to be that much of a bother... I have read some comments about the Tamiya Accent Color, and I have like seven different shades of it (black/grey/brown) and also a lot of Gundam markers, metallic ones, real touch, pour types and even some that are thinner which can work out great. The problem is I usually had the advise to go on with the Tamiya since markers were like... newbie stuff, and I already built several MS and have quite a taste for mechas now. The thing is I usually cut the pieces, clean them, aply then the pannel lining in each one of them already and THEN I assembly it (unless I want to fix a seamline that has pannel lining across it, then I do it first, use the chisel a bit and then I pour the ink). I thought it was all fine until I shattered some of my Dagger L pieces and I love my grunt suits, which had me mad as hell. It seemed to be all because of the Tamiya AC. I like to have such a small brush to apply carefully the ink, and I always try not to pour too much, but damn I read somewhere it could be a danger to the plastic and... it seems so. So I guess I'm glad you cover that on the beggining. It was strange to me at first but I think I got it the hard way. My HG is worthless now, I can safe like half of it but the rest will have to be worked again from scratch because too many parts presented cracks, even the visor, when assembled, started to turn white and foggy...
I don't want to fuck up my model kits, but I also want to make them look as good as I can. Would you say, use the markers the same you did with the Gouf and use the Tamiya only for painted builds? Because as sure as I was I feel somewhat lost. I wouldn't be encouraging Tamiya with bear plastic so much as I've seen given these results. I mean, is there something wrong with me? Lol... Thank you as usual, for real. Greetings from Spain.
I prefer tamiya accents as well. If you want to use it on a non painted kit you are going to have to clear coat it first atleast. You will want to use a gloss clear coat first so the tamiya ac runs smoothly and this will give you the protective barrier for the plastic. Then you can just give it a quick coat of flat clear coat to get rid of the glossy look. Plus this will protect your panel lining and any sticker decals if you use them.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 Yes, I use decals for sure. I just thought I knew A BIT about this world and everyone tells to apply the Tamiya in the bear plastic as if it could cost some trouble but... like, come on you know? It never happens. Yet my Dagger is aaall shattered and broken because I never coated anything beween the Tamiya AC and the bear plastic. In fact, I used to work with both markers and the Accent Colors swapping thinners and all but with no problem. NOW I SEE. God...
Do you have to dry off the alcohol once you have the desired look you want for your panel?
Awesome vid
once again thank you and God bless. I hope and pray things are well! Dont forget to get some daily reading of the Bible in!
hi there , i need some advice. im planning on using panel liner for my rg hi nu. should i top coat it first and then panel line it. and after im done with panel lining and decals , do i top coat it again?
I'm a beginner, and I don't plan on painting my kit. I just got tamiya enamel panel liners + enamel thinner. To confirm, first I need to clear coat the build, and second panel line?
Yes
Great video. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your channel. Sub’d.
Have you panel lined while the part is still on the runner?…I’ve seen videos on that technique to, does it make any difference?
😊👍
so if i want to paint my gunpla i should paint, top coat then panel line with markers?
If you plan to paint then yes. Paint then clear coat with gloss, and if you are painting I would use tamiya panel accent to panel line with and enamel thinner to clean it up instead of the markers. Panel lining markers are good for unpainted kits but if you are going to paint I would use the tamiya stuff.
Is the kit a HG or MG kit ?
It's the hg prototype gouf (devestator type) from the origin line. It's an awesome kit and I highly recommend it.
@@whiskeredgundam7765 I have it on preorder.
Instead of cotton swabs i like to use a microfiber cloth around my finger
Do you let the ink totally dry before you clean it up ?
Yes, but it doesn't take long to dry.