Hi Bear. I made a loop as a shackle for a block out of 7/64". I read Samson's directions and watched your video-- very helpful-- and ended up combining techniques. Samson claims the rope is prone to break right at the abrupt transition without the taper. Anyway, evenly pull out threads at the end of the bury. The trick is to not cut any of the taper threads until you start the bury, then cut them as they enter. One advantage is that the bury is easy to attach to your fid wire and enter the core.
Thanks for the vid and for commenting on the crumb crunchers in the back ground ...almost now one ever does that ....anyway thanks for the refresher looking forward to use that t on my up coming hennessy ultralight. ..
I agree with Ted, tapered ends, maybe up to two inches, would improve the strength. It is also important how much line gets buried. My notes suggest 4.5" for 7/64 Amsteel Blue. Of course these details are only required if you want the loops to have the same weight rating as the line itself.
Yes, tapering the ends improves the strength, but it's marginal. Leaving them untapered is fine if you are happy to reduce the strength (by 30% maybe?). However, the depth of the bury is a different matter. If it is less than the required length, you won't just get a slight reduction in strength; the thing just won't hold at all. I'm not happy with this video. People use these loops for safety-critical applications, where a sudden failure can cause injury or death. This design has no brummel lock (he unties his initial brummel lock by the way he starts his bury from the same hole) and the buried tails are far too short.
You might check out "Nature Calls Backpacking" making loops and slings. He shows how to trim the ends of the cord by half which really makes it a whole lot easier to pull your cordage through itself. Your version of the continuous loop requires a longer bury for strength. His version uses a Brummel Lock, so the length of bury isn't critical. Another excellent channel. Blessings....
A knotted loop would have a breaking strength of 650+ kg. It would take about 20 seconds to tie a triple fisherman's. What's the approx. strength of this setup?
Hey there. Right now I'm using polyester covered dyneema AND prusik knots to adjust my hammock on my single suspension line. Thinking about switchig to 100% dyneema, but I'm afraid that the prusiks will slip due to the slipperey surface. Do they work for you without problems?
I found that the bury sometimes continious to be difficult, not only at the begining. It takes a lot of time, energy and patience to get the loop inside. You have an idea what I do wrong ?
The information in the video was excellent. However you might spend little time learning how to get what you are doing in camera range. Several times out of sight. Otherwise, good job.
I'm confused. You make a brummel lock, and then you untie that lock by burying the tail so that the tail no longer goes right through the cord but only goes into the core. Thus, as far as I can see, the only thing holding that loop together is the bury. A bury in Amsteel or similar needs about 60x the diameter or more, doesn't it? I'm not sure you have that. Regardless of the length of the bury, under no-load, the tails could slide out and the loop fall apart. This design COULD work, IF the bury were sufficiently long (60x or 72x the diameter, depending on who you talk to) AND IF the point where the two buries start were stitched so that it cannot creep apart. But as shown, ...unless I'm misinterpreting what I'm seeing and hearing on the video, this is not going to be a secure loop at all.
Paul Mackilligin unfortunately I would say you are right. I made some loops out of 3mm dyneema 8 in loop and buried each tail all the way to the other end of the loop. Held great until my kids were jumping in the hammock. My guess is the constant pressure and rapid release caused slippage. My kids weren’t too happy when they both fell to the ground. Also not much of a brummel lock because it cant lock a normal brummel lock does not come apart when the ends are pulled this does not do that.
@@jakobbasham5907 some lock stitches are needed to make this secure, because yes, intermittent loads will eventually shake it loose. The main strength of a splice comes from the bury. A brummel lock (which we don't have here) just only holds the buried tails in place. By itself, a brummel lock is not even as strong as a knot. Check out the Premium Ropes/Amsteel video on how to splice a continuous loop. Same technique, just add some lock stitches.
Hi Bear. I made a loop as a shackle for a block out of 7/64". I read Samson's directions and watched your video-- very helpful-- and ended up combining techniques. Samson claims the rope is prone to break right at the abrupt transition without the taper. Anyway, evenly pull out threads at the end of the bury. The trick is to not cut any of the taper threads until you start the bury, then cut them as they enter. One advantage is that the bury is easy to attach to your fid wire and enter the core.
So far you're the best video out there for showing/explaining how to make continuous loops. Thank You!
He might make it look easy but this design is a potential death trap. No brummel lock and insufficient depth of bury.
Thanks for the vid and for commenting on the crumb crunchers in the back ground ...almost now one ever does that ....anyway thanks for the refresher looking forward to use that t on my up coming hennessy ultralight. ..
Really like your tutorials on this kind of stuff. So easy to follow, great demo...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing that skill. Robert
Really cool. Thanks! You just got another follower!
I agree with Ted, tapered ends, maybe up to two inches, would improve the strength. It is also important how much line gets buried. My notes suggest 4.5" for 7/64 Amsteel Blue. Of course these details are only required if you want the loops to have the same weight rating as the line itself.
Yes, tapering the ends improves the strength, but it's marginal. Leaving them untapered is fine if you are happy to reduce the strength (by 30% maybe?).
However, the depth of the bury is a different matter. If it is less than the required length, you won't just get a slight reduction in strength; the thing just won't hold at all.
I'm not happy with this video. People use these loops for safety-critical applications, where a sudden failure can cause injury or death. This design has no brummel lock (he unties his initial brummel lock by the way he starts his bury from the same hole) and the buried tails are far too short.
.035 Stainless steel mig welding filler wire or 1/16 stainless steel TIG welding rod works great for me. Its slippery and clean
Great video. Worked like a charm.
You might check out "Nature Calls Backpacking" making loops and slings. He shows how to trim the ends of the cord by half which really makes it a whole lot easier to pull your cordage through itself. Your version of the continuous loop requires a longer bury for strength. His version uses a Brummel Lock, so the length of bury isn't critical. Another excellent channel. Blessings....
Great Detail on your techniques. Thanks for taking the time to share this . Cheers ;-))
excellent video thanks for sharing the skill regards dave
A knotted loop would have a breaking strength of 650+ kg. It would take about 20 seconds to tie a triple fisherman's. What's the approx. strength of this setup?
Awesome, thank you!
Hey there. Right now I'm using polyester covered dyneema AND prusik knots to adjust my hammock on my single suspension line. Thinking about switchig to 100% dyneema, but I'm afraid that the prusiks will slip due to the slipperey surface. Do they work for you without problems?
I found that the bury sometimes continious to be difficult, not only at the begining. It takes a lot of time, energy and patience to get the loop inside. You have an idea what I do wrong ?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Спасибо
The information in the video was excellent. However you might spend little time learning how to get what you are doing in camera range. Several times out of sight. Otherwise, good job.
Awsome!
Could you do it again, please?
Keeping all the action in the frame?
If you’d cut some strands out it’d be easier to pull through.
Thanks for the great vid
I'm confused. You make a brummel lock, and then you untie that lock by burying the tail so that the tail no longer goes right through the cord but only goes into the core. Thus, as far as I can see, the only thing holding that loop together is the bury. A bury in Amsteel or similar needs about 60x the diameter or more, doesn't it? I'm not sure you have that. Regardless of the length of the bury, under no-load, the tails could slide out and the loop fall apart.
This design COULD work, IF the bury were sufficiently long (60x or 72x the diameter, depending on who you talk to) AND IF the point where the two buries start were stitched so that it cannot creep apart. But as shown, ...unless I'm misinterpreting what I'm seeing and hearing on the video, this is not going to be a secure loop at all.
Paul Mackilligin unfortunately I would say you are right. I made some loops out of 3mm dyneema 8 in loop and buried each tail all the way to the other end of the loop. Held great until my kids were jumping in the hammock. My guess is the constant pressure and rapid release caused slippage. My kids weren’t too happy when they both fell to the ground. Also not much of a brummel lock because it cant lock a normal brummel lock does not come apart when the ends are pulled this does not do that.
@@jakobbasham5907 some lock stitches are needed to make this secure, because yes, intermittent loads will eventually shake it loose. The main strength of a splice comes from the bury. A brummel lock (which we don't have here) just only holds the buried tails in place. By itself, a brummel lock is not even as strong as a knot. Check out the Premium Ropes/Amsteel video on how to splice a continuous loop. Same technique, just add some lock stitches.
Very misleading no strenghts in loop no Brummel lock