My recommendation is to turn on all the hot sides of faucets for air flow instead of opening the t&p cause the t&p will most likely not seal correctly after it opens if it's a few years old. Now if you do open the t&p and it doesn't seal back up smack the handle toward the tank lightly with a hammer a couple times 70% of the time that'll stop it from leaking instead of replacing it. Also no need to turn the gas off in my opinion just turn it down to pilot. If it's electric cut the power at breaker for sure tho
That’s basically how I do it. Except I don’t usually do the whole turn the supply on then back off but I disconnect the hot side which acts like a finger on top of a straw , then release the t&p valve. Also helps to have a booster pump hooked up to it. Honestly I hardly ever drain them all the way just let em drain until light enough to haul away. Takes a while and I don’t like standing around. Just make sure to put a cap on the nipples on top and shut the valve at the bottom off, especially if your rig isn’t tall enough for it to be transported standing up or you will have a rusty lake
Never lift the pressure relief. It will never seal back and you'll be paying to have it replaced. Just open the hot water side of a faucet to bleed it.
@Jon Doe . No. It's not. It's there so your tank does not over pressure as the water heats up and expands. Even your owners manual says to not open it.
@@kenchiison4570ctually, the instruction manual to my Rheem water heater says to open it once a year to make sure it can move. Now I don't know what to do.
Yup lol a little trick I've picked up is smacking the handle of the t&p toward the tank a couple times LIGHTLY with a hammer or channel locks whatever you have around you and that usually will seal it back up
@@jake48396 I don’t mess around with T&P valves. If they are bad, then they are bad and I’ll replace them. They don’t cost a lot, maybe $20, and they are a pretty major safety feature that prevents your water heater from blowing up.
Don't open the t&p valve, you'll weaking it. Once ball valve is closed open hot side of faucets. When you turn the water back on to the heater leave them open a few seconds to drain any air pockets
That damn thing is always clogged. I do this annually and it's always clogged. I end up having to remove the top heating element and slowly drain using a wet dry vac. How about putting an access plug on the top of the tank where a hose can be put in the tank to drain it?
Don't turn your gas off - just turn your setting to "pilot" or "vacation" mode. If you turn off your gas, you will have to re-light your pilot lite. Then when you are done - just turn the setting back to where you had it.
Please if you see this respond asap My water is always low. I use cold water for everything. Showers and everything Family is staying at house. They want hot water (like normal folk) So I cranked it from literally like a level 2 to 10 That was yesterday Today it’s leaking at top and bottom slightly Is this due to pressure buildup? It never leaked in YEARS ever I haven’t turned temperature level it up in prob 4,5 years
As an actual plumber No that’s not correct at all actually it’s recommended to open the T&p valve once a year to ensure that it is working and not getting stuck. It’s a safety device. You need it to be able to open if pressure is to high or temperatures are to hot on the water. You always check the valve always. And if it gets stuck it takes damn 15 min to change one out and that’s with me taking my time
They don’t make them like they use to anymore. I have a Reliant. A replacement to my very first one. And flame shuts off way too often… oh well I’ll try flushing since I hear noises of possible build up
I see u not a plumber. There's a reason why they need to be flush. Let me tell u why so ur fault in the house don't get stock with minerals and have better flow. That's why.
"Make sure all the fixtures in the home are shut off." Do you mean we should close the shut-off valves to sinks, toilets, dishwasher, etc? Or is it enough to make sure the faucets are off and nobody is using water?
Yeah if you're real plumber you would know that the scam that fake plumbers use to make money you actually need a tool that stirs up all the sediment inside the water heater and then it's extracted. Just draining it with a garden hose doesn't do anything😂😂
Bro wtf. Not even close. Just valve off the heater and put a size 13 boot on the plastic drain valve.... no restriction means more flow meaning more time for beer drinking
My water heater went out last winter and my landlord fixed it. I now own the home and I’m paranoid it will go out again. Are there any parts that I should keep on hand that are “easy” to fix and install myself?
I would say a water heater element for a tank water heater but chances are if it’s electric it’s a 2 phase 240, so 120 watts to each element. The bottom one always goes out first. I wouldn’t mess with it if I where you unless you have a multimeter 240 is deadly just takes 1 oopsie
Holy crap, there's two of them
My recommendation is to turn on all the hot sides of faucets for air flow instead of opening the t&p cause the t&p will most likely not seal correctly after it opens if it's a few years old. Now if you do open the t&p and it doesn't seal back up smack the handle toward the tank lightly with a hammer a couple times 70% of the time that'll stop it from leaking instead of replacing it. Also no need to turn the gas off in my opinion just turn it down to pilot. If it's electric cut the power at breaker for sure tho
Well that answered my questions except... how often should I th8s be done??
100%
@@nbt3663 annually
@@RoroborTV thanks!
Thank you
I came here to write this
you guys need to chill. if someone were to hear me listening to this they'd think I was a pole smoker
This comment just made my day
@@joen4520 My wife thought I was watching queer eye for the straight guy 👀 🧐
Seriously though. This was a bit much
Lmao fr tho
@@jabroski69 quickly mentions something about his wife in his next comment. 💀
If youre just flushing it You dont have to do any of that. Just hook up a hose and let it run. Dont shut anything off.
That’s basically how I do it. Except I don’t usually do the whole turn the supply on then back off but I disconnect the hot side which acts like a finger on top of a straw , then release the t&p valve. Also helps to have a booster pump hooked up to it. Honestly I hardly ever drain them all the way just let em drain until light enough to haul away. Takes a while and I don’t like standing around. Just make sure to put a cap on the nipples on top and shut the valve at the bottom off, especially if your rig isn’t tall enough for it to be transported standing up or you will have a rusty lake
I hook up a little pump to the drain and open a faucet. Can drain the tank in about 5 minutes. Takes forever to let it gravity drain.
Never lift the pressure relief. It will never seal back and you'll be paying to have it replaced. Just open the hot water side of a faucet to bleed it.
Yeah I only lift it if I'm replacing the water heater. Otherwise I just crack a supply line open
That’s why it’s there…
@Jon Doe . No. It's not. It's there so your tank does not over pressure as the water heats up and expands. Even your owners manual says to not open it.
@@kenchiison4570ctually, the instruction manual to my Rheem water heater says to open it once a year to make sure it can move. Now I don't know what to do.
@@sparkyheberling6115 I wouldn't open it. Just open the hot side of the nearest water faucet like others have commented.
Open a faucet. Now that p&t valve is more likely to start dripping. Pump it out. It will be empty in 5 minutes.
And then replace the T and P because now drips after you touched
Yuuuup!
Or you can fiddle with cleaning it.
Yup lol a little trick I've picked up is smacking the handle of the t&p toward the tank a couple times LIGHTLY with a hammer or channel locks whatever you have around you and that usually will seal it back up
@@jake48396 I don’t mess around with T&P valves. If they are bad, then they are bad and I’ll replace them. They don’t cost a lot, maybe $20, and they are a pretty major safety feature that prevents your water heater from blowing up.
@@johne189 I typically find it you give it a little tap with a hammer it stops
YEP 😂
This is the only vid EVER that I just see that suggests the aid of turning the water actually on....to start draining. Bravo
First step unplug the recirculating pump !
And it’s okay, to open T & P relief valve, if leaks after your all done. “ Well it was due for a new one.
Good job twins thank you for honest and educational videos.👍
Our water heater is over 20 years old and has never had this procedure done before, nor has it had any problems despite having hard water.
I use a pump.
Love this! Keep up the energy! Thanks for teaching!!
Don't open the t&p valve, you'll weaking it. Once ball valve is closed open hot side of faucets. When you turn the water back on to the heater leave them open a few seconds to drain any air pockets
That damn thing is always clogged. I do this annually and it's always clogged. I end up having to remove the top heating element and slowly drain using a wet dry vac. How about putting an access plug on the top of the tank where a hose can be put in the tank to drain it?
Don't turn your gas off - just turn your setting to "pilot" or "vacation" mode. If you turn off your gas, you will have to re-light your pilot lite. Then when you are done - just turn the setting back to where you had it.
or if it is an electric water heater be sure to turn the power off
Why bleed all the water ? I only bleed it till it runs clean . Which is instant because I do it every spring
Do it under pressure. That’s how u do a flush instead of just draining. Sometimes the ports can get clogged with debris
You guys are awesome!! Happy new years to you and the fam!
Transfer pump will change your life.
While ignoring the back pitched flue..... good job sparky..
I use a transfer pump
Your flue pipe is running down hill. forget drain the tank, focus on the CO problem
We agree
Yepperoni
Please if you see this respond asap
My water is always low. I use cold water for everything. Showers and everything
Family is staying at house. They want hot water (like normal folk)
So I cranked it from literally like a level 2 to 10
That was yesterday
Today it’s leaking at top and bottom slightly
Is this due to pressure buildup?
It never leaked in YEARS ever
I haven’t turned temperature level it up in prob 4,5 years
If the pressure valve is stuck it probably built up pressure when you increased the temperature and the tank cracked. You'll need to replace it.
Anyone notice that improper pitch on the vent pipe? Also, after years, that relief valve will not seat if opened. Not recommended
If you drill a hole at the bottom it drains fast. Than screw in a tapcon with some Alex white caulking to seal
Never open the TMP because it might not seal properly afterwards. Then you will have to replace it or it might start leaking later.
As an actual plumber No that’s not correct at all actually it’s recommended to open the T&p valve once a year to ensure that it is working and not getting stuck. It’s a safety device. You need it to be able to open if pressure is to high or temperatures are to hot on the water. You always check the valve always. And if it gets stuck it takes damn 15 min to change one out and that’s with me taking my time
obviously you dont know much about them
Ummm re-circ line…..noticed it not being plugged in still might want to shut that ball valve off to isolate that line and then flush that tank…
Have never flushed my water heater. Still going strong after 23 years.
Change it yet
They don’t make them like they use to anymore. I have a Reliant. A replacement to my very first one. And flame shuts off way too often… oh well I’ll try flushing since I hear noises of possible build up
I see u not a plumber. There's a reason why they need to be flush. Let me tell u why so ur fault in the house don't get stock with minerals and have better flow. That's why.
OMG there is two of them
Did i see water leaking out the top of the shut off when he shut the water off!? Usually happens to me and I get more work from it! 🙌
That pressure relief valve will give someone a unpleasant surprise when it doesn't reset right
"Make sure all the fixtures in the home are shut off." Do you mean we should close the shut-off valves to sinks, toilets, dishwasher, etc?
Or is it enough to make sure the faucets are off and nobody is using water?
Yeah if you're real plumber you would know that the scam that fake plumbers use to make money you actually need a tool that stirs up all the sediment inside the water heater and then it's extracted. Just draining it with a garden hose doesn't do anything😂😂
Great! now you've got to replace the cold water shut-off cuz it's leaking.
A pro would use a transfer pump. open the union on the hot side or cut the tubing for air flow
there’s two of them??
So I guess the rec pump is gonna be burned up since you did not turn it off
Bingo
That’s how you sell the customer a new one.
We just going to ignore the importance of killing the power to the recirculating pump or insure the timer isnt set to kick on....
Some people need a whole ass rice bag at the end of the hose to capture all that sediment god damn why do I get all the lack of maintenance jobs
You can always take off the supply lines on top of the water heater
Pretty sure you dont meas w t+p valves
Is this the same channel of the guy saying “don’t” at home depo? How did I never realize it was 2 of u
We need to talk about that vent connector.
Lol
The sock trick is actually a pretty cool filter.
Thanks, cliff notes are all I need so this was perfect lmao
I ENDED UP DOING THAT WITH MY ELECTRIC HEATER, YOU NEVER TOLD ME TO TURN OFF THE POWER, WATER HEATER BURNED.
YOU OWE ME A WATER HEATER.
Unfortunately I don’t have a shutoff above my water heater, only a main shut off for all water. My jerry rigged my house before I bought it
Doing it that way doesn’t stir up any sediment inside so therefore you ain’t really helping it much
I saw Anuther video that a plumer said save your time and money and don't do this.
Open the t and p valve. Then go buy another one to install. Don’t open the t and p valve.
Don't forget step one.....turn off the water heater!
Exactly
Question is your brother the guys who does movie props you guys look very similar
Mario, Luigi is that you? 😂
How about turn the power off if its electric.
Take the drip leg off the relief valve and put an air compressor on there and it cuts the time tremendously
I run a transfer pump on the hose.
You said in another video to agitate the water yet you did not do that in this video
Now The t&p is leaking 🤦🏼
These guys need to just stop it.
Bro wtf. Not even close. Just valve off the heater and put a size 13 boot on the plastic drain valve.... no restriction means more flow meaning more time for beer drinking
We need to start doing videos like this.
Do good ones instead.
If you guys aint dressing up has mario and luigi for Halloween then your doing it all wrong
Do not touch you T and P. Ever
Every time you open the tmp you are damaging it. They break after being opened to many times
And turn off circulating pump
Oh schnapps!!!!
There's two of this guy!!!!!!
I think these guys like their BudLight
Wait, am I seeing double
Oh wow! There's two of you!!😮
Nice venting going downhill
Forgot a step .turn off the circuit breaker if it is an electric water heater
Unnecessary. Just attatch hose open the boiler drain. Water will replenish as it drains. No chance of running an element dry.
Oh no no😮
Now i know why his brother leans to the left.
he keeps stealing his brother's left sock.
Don't do it......dont do it...
Hey look at that, plumbers from my area. I’ve met a couple of their guys over the years.
How about the back pitched venting and it’s too close to combustibles
My water heater went out last winter and my landlord fixed it. I now own the home and I’m paranoid it will go out again. Are there any parts that I should keep on hand that are “easy” to fix and install myself?
I would say a water heater element for a tank water heater but chances are if it’s electric it’s a 2 phase 240, so 120 watts to each element. The bottom one always goes out first. I wouldn’t mess with it if I where you unless you have a multimeter 240 is deadly just takes 1 oopsie
Home warranty
@@thefarmingnurse overrated.
Aah, there is two of you😂😂
I have been beating the water heater for 25 minutes with the channel locks..but nothings happening.
Get a water hose and some knippex cobras
fix'd
Is it just me or was the ball valve spraying water when he turned it off at the very last second it's on the top of the valve
This is not how a pro would do it
Real plumbers use chanel locks not nipex
WrongI use a transfer pump with a 1/2 pex connection I remove supply line and stick 1/2 pex through nipple on top of water heater
I can never know which one is making the video
Is that liquid metal from Terminator 2 ?
Bet relief leaks now
So no one talking about how hot the water would be coming out that sock huh. Ok
They scared me
And when your T&P don't seat. You can a plumber
Never knew you can put a recruiting pump off the drain down valve
I wondered where the socks were going??
Thank you Mario Bro’s!
Go get another Bud light & relax Dualing Dylan’s. 👗 💐
The two demons that watch me sleep…
Buddy this ain’t gunna work in Florida , i see 5 year old heater got calcium up to the bottom element all the time
I definitely would be worried about your venting negative slope
That flue needs replacement!