Paint Your Staircase in Minutes with HVLP - You Won't Believe What Happens Next!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey there, Pro and semi pro painters & DIYers!
Want to know how to turn a boring old wooden staircase into a show-stopping statement piece? Don't waste your time with a brush - get yourself a HVLP sprayer and let me show you how it's done!
Spraying a staircase might sound daunting, but trust me, it's easier than you think. And not only will you save time by using a sprayer, but you can also charge more for the job because the finish is so much better. Cha-ching!
Just imagine how long it would take you to paint multiple coats by hand with a brush. Ugh, no thanks! With a sprayer, you'll get a flawless finish in no time. And the best part? You don't have to charge less just because you finished the job faster. Your time is valuable, and so is your expertise!
Oh, and if you're wondering how to clean out your HVLP sprayer, don't worry - I've got you covered. Just skip ahead to about 26 minutes into my video and I'll show you everything you need to know.
So what are you waiting for? Say goodbye to brush marks and hello to a stunning new staircase with the power of a HVLP sprayer!
Those who use Amazon, link to the QT5 suctioncup gun 240v HVLP (110v & other options are available too, please check what suits you best).
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The wood looked so much better.
Great video nonetheless.
I like the way you present and explain things
Thanks Phil, useful recap on everything 👍🏻 think your flies were undone during the cleaning up video 😉🤣
They are overalls!
Watch the video in me testing out my new 495st sprayer... All explained there. An in other vids lol
Hey Phil another cracking video and great info Keep up the good work have learned loads from your tips on spraying 👍
Good to hear
The great thin about bin is the drying time in my opinion. Great product
And stops Knotts :)
But not suitable for outside, only spot priming on Knotts.
Another great video Phill and find it gives me the confidence to get into spraying more , I went to college over 40 yrs ago and the whole priming before you fill thing is one of the things that has stuck in my mind and I always do ,and like you really annoys me when I see people filling first ,
it's the blind leading the blind social media 'painters'.. I use the term very loosely! lol
Super. That’s exactly I wanted to watch and learn. Thanks for that video.
Flying low pal. I always do that too😅 im sure it's a painters trousers thing😂 bice one Phil.
The word is overalls for a reason.... Jeans are underneath :)
Great video Phil as always.👍 I remember back when I started in 1986 the company I worked for done glazing also , my job would of been to prime bare areas on the window rebates with knotting before putty was pressed in with your thumb , no silicone in them days , same on new mahogany windows , always sealed before putty , fill , etc. I had the fuji 5 before with remote pot , I used 2 whip hoses for the remote pot , one going in , one going out , made it more flexible. Little kitchen pot scrubber brushes are great for cleaning remote pots. I've the Gentilin now with PPS I use mostly for stairs , also drape the bottom row of stairs with plastic film keeps them dust free until you get to them while spraying upstairs. Definitely more control with hvlp as opposed to airless. The extractor fan with ducting is great also , I made up a filter to place in front of it , although I'm gonna make a newer box version 4 sided idea soon. It's not Atex rated , there alot pricier , but I've used spraying bin an survived. Happy New year and look forward to more videos for 2022 . Cheers
Good call on sheeting over
I finds.. start at the top.
And fall out, dust off and. Alight sand and come and spray it when the top has dried off.
Handrails I'll come back to. Light sand. Wipe over with damp cloth then a quick wet coat... Come up lovey.
Customer said on Friday shed never seen a finish like it.
I said it's what you're paying for . And my kit is over £2k if you add it all up that I'm using for spraying.. hvlp and the airless... As done the panels airless this week too. Pix on Instagram of that.
You need to spend on equipment to get the best finishes don't you.
:)
Is that your WRC?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I was the Co Driver on that day S11 WRC , Donegal Harvest Rally 2006 .
th-cam.com/video/AIGADubX8to/w-d-xo.html
@@navigators11 have you seen you in ScoobyNet?
Great video Phil, beats brushing spindles for sure.
No fatty edges creeping around.
Love it make sense mate looks affective too keep up the good videos 🤙🏿👌🏿
Thanks, will do!
Nice work Phil getting better every new video keep going and your subs will go mental best regards IFin
Thanks, just trying to helpand need more ppl to view, that way the word is spread and more ppl can see how things should/can be done.
Hi there brother of the brush frm New Zealand great video keep up the gd wrk and yes yr right about filling always prime first it gives the filler something to bind onto😊
Welcome. Yes. We're singing from the same hymn sheet ;)
hi phil since watching you' re video on pressure pot im tempted to getting one i bet it saves so much time from topping up your suction pot or gravity pot awesome video as always 👍
Thanks.
It's not that... It's the fact you can put the gun in any direction... Up down, left and right without the put underneath the gun to worry about... Gives you a lot more manouverbility ... Great for kitchens and furniture.... And yes... It holds more paint.
Oh... You may nee to thin the paint a little more using the remote pot.
Definitely not boring watching you spray , especially for us beginners .
Bit slower would be nice 😂great work
TNX... speeded some bits up to save a few mins of your life you'll not get back.
You can't cram a load of info into 11mins when you're trying to explain it though.... watch it in bite sized chunks :)
Brilliant video Phil👌🏻 your smashing it 👍🏻
Brilliant video. Think qtech say not to submerge the gun but I did the same
It's only water lol
Hi Phil, great video very informative.
Phil, I couldn't help but notice that at 30:43, prior to flushing the fluid line and gun out, you removed and cleaned the needle. Then, after flushing the line and the fluid pathway inside of the gun, you removed the nozzle then cleaned it. Wouldn't it have made more sense to flush first, then remove the needle, aircap and diffuser, then the nozzle - and then clean those parts? The way you did it, you inserted a clean needle into a dirty nozzle, negating much of the needle cleaning effort you'd done in the first place. BTW, great pro tip about applying Vaseline to the various parts.
Thanks for watching it all the way through... 4p towards that porcshe lol
The reason I clean off the needle part way through is mainly so I'm not trying to wash it all out with paint that might be stuck/dried on the needle. If I know that's clean, one less thing to worry about.
At the end you see I strip it all down and Vaseline it all back together.
It's a bit like cleaning an airless set up, I quickly whip out and clean the filters once I've started to get clean water through, so I'm not pushing paint water through that's being caused by paint stuck in the filters... If you know they are clean and clear, the only paint to be washed out comes off the inner part of the hoses.
Clean out though how you feel best works for you. Hvlp is so easy to clean and strip down when needed.
Nice one happy New Year
and to you too ;)
Great Vid and very informative many thanks, I see you use the red devil caulk def recommend, as to your furniture filler Phil which could you recommend, I use repair care but very expensive.
Hi, Yes the Red Devil OneTime Caulk is very good. I use the Helmi Furniture filler, you may need to do two fills on some holes though. I don't use RC for filling like this, it would be two pack on bigger screw heads if needed. I found with RC that it didn't sand down well. Have you tried TimbaBuild? That does rub down a bit easier. Timba Build also do a fine finish filler, when you need to skim wood imperfections out.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Many thanks Phil👍👍
Hi Phil - recently found your channel. Lots of great info. New to spraying mostly done airless after doing a course. Just bought a Graco 9.5 pro. Have a staircase to do. Looking forward to it, video has really helped. Wondering do you thin down the bin?
BIN doesn't really need thinning for hvlp use meths or get some nail polish remover, acetone , if it gets thick or to clean.
Hi Phil - recently found your channel. Lots of great info. New to spraying mostly done airless after doing a course. Just bought a Graco 9.5 pro. Have a staircase to do. Looking forward to it, video has really helped. Wondering do you thin down the bin and by how much?
great, how did you search for me??
BIN... it's like watr, no need to thin, Rember .. use it.. do light coats, don't try and get it covering in one go.. that's where ppl make the mistakes ;)
One nice light even coat, is rally enough, then build up from that with your undercoat ;)
Do they make the Qtec 5 with a silencer? its awfuly loud! NIce work Big man 🙂
LoL
Shows th boss you're working hard lol
Hi Phil, Thanks for another good video. I've invested in an appollo power 5. Haven't used it enough. Struggled with the pressure pot getting a decent amount of paint through, think I didn't thin the paint enough. Could you do a video on thinning paint. I don't understand the plastic cups with the info on the side. I worry about thinning it too much. Cheers Bob.
The remote pot. Yes needs thinning more that when on suction cup.
Thinning. Depends on paint and it thickness.
Add water to an amount of paint you'll use... The the whole paint tin.
Mix and if it runs off nicely into the paint without sitting on the surface.. you're about right.
What needle you using?
A 1.8 is good if the paint is thicker... Luke using All coat Exterior.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks Phil I haven't got a 1.8 but have got 2.0, 1.5 so guessing 2.0 would be OK.
Great video Phil. What quick dry furniture filler do you use mate?
Hemli filler, or red devil caulk for small stuff/angles.. One Time fine surface filler also.
Phil how would you spray these spindles if the there was carpet and decent walls? Or would you just paint them using brush or roller? Seems tricky to cover up area's otherwise?
You'll do it before walls are finished.
Tape and cover tye carpet as you would anyway. Carpet protector on a roll on the stairs and the bits up to the stringing, you tape the last bit. Don't over think it.
Hi phil great videos, im just starting out, i have not bought a spray gun kit yet but was wondering would an HVLP kit or Airless kit to start with, also is it possible to use a spray gun kit in someones home who is living in the house, or would it have to be unoccupied etc, no carpets etc. Those stair spindles did look nice, and the time saved instead of painting them by hand. Could you also recommend a good reliable brand Graco, wagner, etc?
I dont want to spend fortunes as i dont know how much use it will get, do you spray walls and ceilings or roller? Is it only possible to use a sprayer, if the house is empty??? Sorry for all the questions keep the videos going mate. Thanks Kevin
Hi, Both play their part.
Airless is great, HVLP is too, but you cant do large wall/ceilings etc with HVLP, its more for fin work, kitchen/cabinets etc, woodwork, .finer finish and easier control.
Airless, I also use on woodwork too. With the right tip an pressure control you can reduce overspray.
So when I'm in a house someone lives in.. carpets down etc. Tape up well, cover floors like you would anyway.. and learn how to use the machines.
When you see TikTok and Insta.. and you see people covered in overspray.... they are doing it wrong.
2 tips for you.
Spend what you can afford... buy cheap pay twice!!
Go to someone who knows what they are selling, they will advise whats best for you.
Have you seen the vids of the set ups I have?
the airless graco GXff is a good little all rounder.
I work in empty and lived in houses, you will still weigh up what you can use where, sometimes it's not worth getting a sprayer out ;)
But don't think you can't use a sprayer all the time!!
customer had a right go at me for painting before filling etc , said i was doing it wrong I said no that's how you do it .. finished up walking away from job .. better things to do with my time lol
Clowns.
Knot, prime, fill then UC and then top coat.
Sand in-between.. and bare showing.. spot prime again before the UC stage.
It's all back to basics isn't it.
Hi Phil
Great video , love your work.
May I ask do you worry about the fumes coming off the bin primer.. as it's a bit flammable if so how do you deal with fumes.
And I'm thinking of trying out the intact range on my hvlp, do you have any comments?
All the best 👍
evening. TNX :) LIKE, SHARE.. smash that BELL ;)
I used INTACT 40 when it first came out, virtually the day after it was released, I used HVLP... never had any problems with it.. I used it over Otex Akva, as it was going on previously Oil eggshell.
BIN. with my mask I don't smell any fumes.... check my vids out on my mask ;)
Once you've sprayed the BIN, get doors any windows open, to let anything out. I don't have them open when spraying as not to blow dust everywhere. I want to buy an extractor and slinky hose tube to help ventilate rooms on some job, just I've not got around to looking into it yet.
Might be worth looking into for you if it helps?
What do you prefer spraying banisters and stairways with - HVLP or Airless ?
Hvlp give you more control. Airless.. is quicker
nice one
Thanks
Have you done a video talking through the difference between hvlp and airless and when you would chose one over the other? Cheers
hi, not sure i have, I may mention the use of a sprayer on the video using it. Where you wondering what to buy? what would you mainly be doing?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hello, Phil. I already have and use a graco 395 which is great but it seems like overkill sometimes. For example, spraying a couple of radiators or a bit of woodwork. I also think that sometimes it is probably putting out more material than I might want - like with spindles or if I wanted to do UPVC. In those case I wonder if hvlp is a better choice. Any thoughts you have would be much appreciated.
@@xxnonstopdancingxx yeah, you won't use airless for uPVC, you want a hvlp gun.
for the odd radiator... have you looked at that cheap £40 hvlp I tested a while back?
HVLP would also be good for your staircase work too.
Airless is best for large areas and using more thicker paint/emulsion
Hvlp... more control and for finish work.
you can use airless for woodwork etc.. its getting the right paint.. spray tip and filters... also practice ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator cheers, yep I saw the cheap £40 HVLP video. Cheap stuff has it’s place. I think I just need to pull the trigger so to speak and buy HVLP to compliment what I have… but what to go for. This morning I won job with 20 column radiators over Easter weekend so whatever I use it will get a good workout.
Im painting quite a bit of MDF recently. I ran into the issue that after undercoat I do fill nail holes sand it a little and it looks great but after I spray top those nail holes comes back. It looks like Mdf absorbs water sweels a bit and those filled ploces dont.. And those holes need filling again.. A do use water based primer and top coat with airless. How can I avoid this?
Hi, a good question.
Prime the MDF first.. fill and caulk.. then re spray it all with an Uc... or a 2nd coat of wat you primed it all with.
What filler have you need using?
A light weight filler, like Red Devil OneTime filler.. (or Wickes own brand if you're in the UK) is ideal for the small nail heads.. dries quick too.
I've found no need to use a 2pac filler.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I do use" red devil one time"as well. 😀And use 2pack filler for the face side like for instance where the shaker panels meet it hides the joint better from my experience. Other fillers work fine but after after Mdf get moisture from next coat those filled places come up. Barely noticeable, but they are usually there.. I might just try to spray BIN as a base coat, I should prevent Mdf from absorbing moisture from upcoming coats.. Hopefully..
Hello Phil, great video, I'm looking to spray a previously painted staircase. Would I have to completely remove the old paint or would keying it up be sufficient. Also what would be the best paint to use in that situation.
Love watching your videos (more hvlp spraying plz)
Hi, I love ppl loving the videos :D tnx.
Give it all a good clean down and sand. no need to remove the paint if its a sound surface you'll be fine, dust it down well... you can clean it with sugar soap and water if it's really dirty etc.
I'd use a grip/adhesive primer like Tikkurila Otex Akav (water based first) then you can go over with Tikkurilla Helmi 30 or Everal Aqua 40 (eggshell/satin finishes).
Or you could just use an all in one paint....
Bedec MSP is soft satin
or
AllCoat Exterior satin.
Both will go over previously painted wood no problem.... its an Undercoat and top coat.. all in one.
All spray well.
Hav eyou seen my airless spraying video yet?
If your careful... Could you do all this with a wagner 150
that's an airless, yes you could, but you'd need the right spray tip small enough and the correct filter. have you watched my airless spray videos yet?
At about 6.40 Phil you said you could use coverstain but BIN will also cover these knots… you saying Coverstain WON’T cover the knots ?
Correct. Coverstain isn't for knots... But can be used as a primer.
You'd have to go around the knots first, with Knotting. Or chance it they won't come through.
Hey Phil, what are your thoughts on stage 5 vs compressor? And will a pressure pot help spray paint with less watering down?
I sprayed some helmi 30 recently and not happy with the finish, i had to do 20% water instead of the recommended 10% to get it to spray well (compressor setup)
Ooooh. 6million dollar question.
Stage 5 is a small easier to move around unit than a compressor.. unless you buy a small one, but make sure it's powerful enough.
Hvlp... Needs thinning... Remote pot... I think you need enough thinning to get it up and through the paint pipe.
Watch my video on spraying radiators and also the velux.... I use the remote pot on those videos
Newd work for paint
What size tip did you use on the Eve ral aqua Phil and Was it thinned at all
The 1.5 needle tip is fine. With hvlp you need to thin the paint.. so add a bit at a time so that it's sprays right... Too thick and it will spray a bit splattery.
How to approach . . . get someone else to do it! Great video.
That's the plan!
Hi Phil, I understand caulk is flexible, but dry paint isn't, or is it? Does dry paint not crack with any timber or caulk movement?
I had that done on my wardrobe shaker door, used flexible caulk. However a few weeks later cracks developed in paint on several places around the panel where caulk is. Cracks are in the paint, caulking around the panel is still good. I used 2k poly. Any thoughts?
my thoughts may be to ask... were the original doors, with a centre panel that was 'loose' as in a floating panel to allow movement of the panel in it's surrounding frame? maybe caulking that meant it can't now now like it did before?
some doors like that don't need to be caulked.
what's the paint you used? cellulose I take it?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thank you. Good thinking about the panel. I just presumed it was glued in, there was no movement in it...if I remember correctly 😳
The paint was seherwin williams 2k polyurethane, got lovely finish with it, this does dry very hard I think. See I did not know about caulking but the line between the panel and door did not look good after spraying another door I used for practice. So it was suggested I try caulking it. Now dont get me wrong, they still look great, which is why those few cracks are annoying I guess.
How could I have it done otherwise, the gap wouldnt be a problem if paint line was "clean"?
@@bluewanderer9903 hmmm was the caulk an interior exterior flexible one? I find that's better and caulk and paint the day after.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator not sure if it was exterior, it was suggested to me as good furrniture caulk and I did not buy it as it was given to me free brand new unopened, white tube said professional on it, paintable. I found it easy to use, clean spread.
I will be doing the other bedroom in a few weeks and I will try what you said there.
Thank you 👍
Hi,phil iv only got a airless sprayer, wot tip would u recommend for woodwork for a fine finish.cheers mate 👍
ooooh, I've a vid on that somewhere lol
keep it simple... anything like the gold tritech 210, 310 fine finish tips.. and correct gun filter! (red with tritech).
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator excellent thankyou, keeps the vids coming...
How much BIN would you have used on that?
can't remember now, no more than a litre.... no more than 2.
Hi Phil, In reality how much spray “dust” settling is generated in spraying a staircase indoors with a HPLP. Ie
how much masking out is necessary other than to protect from direct jets of spray. I realise there is going to be an element down the hall corridor for instance but would it be a nightmare to clean up, would it percolate through to other rooms. I come from a car spraying, compressor background (many many years ago) and if I was to spray indoors with cellulose for instance the whole house would be absolutely covered.
I would appreciate your assessment based your expertise and experience.
I thought I was just going to spray kitchen units but because of your videos I’m thinking of a load of other uses.
Thanks Man. 👍
Phil what is the face mask you’re using? How long do the filters last ? TIA
th-cam.com/video/as2HCZoznII/w-d-xo.html
Here you go
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator many thanks 🙏
Phil, nice vid - I'd be keen to get your advice based on what i've seen... I'm looking to spray (airless) a stair case, spindles and bannisters with ONE Tikkurilla paint, and then give the treads and risers a final spray with a water-based poly for durability (polyvine). I've been suggested to use Betolux for stairs AND Helmi for spindles and bannisters BUT I'm trying to save on masking and effort by using ONE paint for everything and applying a hard wearing top coat to the stairs (it will also have a stair runner once done)
What would you suggest? Thank you!
Hi.
You don't need two lots of paint.
I've done a staircase in the last month using my GXff and a 208 ff tip. All in Tikkurila Everal Aqua 40... and the lower staircase will be next week (as it's a two story house, done in sections.. working from top to bottom.
That staircase you see on this vid with the HVLP.. all everal aqua 40.. on the treads and risers too... carpet runner went up the middle.
You don't need to be using anything any different on the treads/risers.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for the reply. That was my thinking exactly, one paint and I'll finish with a poly for extra durability
There are painted walls to spray over as well but I've seen some mixed issues with Optiva 5; hey ho, I'll keep looking. Cheers
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I've bought a wagner pp90 and I'm trying to spray woodwork with 208ff tip with 123plus and I'm getting spitting and tails galore. Need to spray a big staircase with it but i can't get it not to run? Any help?
BIN primer is incredible stuff but stinks to high heaven, headache inducing.
mask ;) like breathing fresh air :)
Is this louder than a super silent compressor? I mainly need a system to paint furniture.
The HVLP QT5 is quite noisy with the some of the turbine.. you get used to it though.
All this gun sprays is for contractor painters when the house is in built progress
Customer living in this house.... The other video on spraying staircase I use airless... Customer living in that. I've done my own house staircase too.
do you get a lot of paint floating in air around area when spraying with this gun?
only if the fan is too wode and you're spraying through the gap, but control of the fan width and air flow you can keep down the overspray