So sick! I love seeing the fast progression with this car. In terms of aero considerations for the rear window, I’d recommend speaking to Andrew Brilliant. He made the aero package for Peter Ziele’s hill climb MR2 so must have a level of understanding about the nuances of the roof line. Alternatively, throw some cheap vortexes on the roof to see if that lowers the pressure against the rear window!
Great and crazy work as always. Love these type of intake/filter housings. The work on the Porsche is top notch as expected. Trying to understand aerodynamics is like going crazy. You think you figured it out and out comes a series of unexpected results
for some reason its rare to see build turbo cars with proper size airfilters. maybe ppl dont understand how much engines really need air at high loads and rpm. your setup is really well done and sized
Thank you. It’s why Japan always used to have the trend of metal intake pipes on their cars- The air filters they all used to run were so small and restrictive anything but metal would suck shut. It’s hard to fit a decent unrestricted air filter for big power in an engine bay, but people really should put more effort in to it as it’s holding a lot of cars back
Gopros do suck, you have to look at people like Whistlindiesel who just film on iphones and admit the quality is a lot better! One consideration for the rally/RX cars is that they expect to ingest a lot of dust so have relatively fine filters, and a lot of area to maintain the airflow and make it harder to block - you can go smaller with a typical oiled/foam performance filter. OEM airboxes can actually perform quite well - better even than some popular cold air intakes. Most people aren’t measuring differential pressure across the filter/intake though so have no idea. But I think your setup will probably be the god tier of ‘enough, cold’ air. Time to get the wool tufts out for the window vents and door intake - be interesting to see how well the air stays attached to the leading edge. Great work as always though 👍
Exactly. He does his on iPhones and I’ve only done mine on them for a few months. Only time bothered with GoPro is for on-in car stuff as a little easier to mount, but not much
Not sure how it is with plexiglass but when mounting regular windshield you need to use special primer that gets applied onto both the windshield and the metal
Stav, if you are wondering about where low and high pressure zone are, or the difference between two spots just get a magnehelic gauge (hope i got the word correctly) and it should help you get proper results/data for you to work with and further improve on your mad ideas.
Yeah I have an electronic manometer (basically same thing) which I was thinking of using to test stuff. I need to see if it can datalog with it though as can’t watch it while driving really!
Please do it cause I’m pretty sure the intake is in a Low pressure area. Or at least a very messy air flow area because of the wheel arches. Anyway, I’m also into that MASSIVE air box club !
Also I forgot, you might have the air flow coming from the bottom of the windshield (high pressure area) coming into the cabin via the ventilation system, and exiting through your rear vents.
@@PapotsGaragewas going to suggest this. @stav_tech maybe the wind you are feeling is the airflow going past your head from front of cabin out through the vents? Defo a lot of good suggestions here though and the wool idea should be a fairly quick and easy test to confirm direction of flow at those vents 👍🏻
Can you show the vent some more and explain what's going off with that or have I missed a video? You can tape 100mm of wool in places and watch how it behaves, to get a better understanding of how air is travelling around the car and vents. Obvs you've got a gopro so you can attach that to film the behaviour of the wool. You can also hot glue small sections of plastic to make vents/wings and change the air flow through pressure change. I know a guy who built a full body kit car and modified the body quite extensively. The front facing bonnet vent was pushing air out, not in as you'd expect. NOTE: He crashed that car doing tests with wool because he didn't have a camera and wasn't paying full attention in a beast of a car... Don't be that guy and use a camera 😂👍 Fucking awesome build, I'm going to copy you but I'll prob use soke random cheap platform for the drive train. Keep up the good work buddy 👍😎
Can’t get a cheaper and easier platform than a mk3 MR2 to 1.8T mid engine swap. Anything else will be way more money and work. Vent is shown/explained in the last vid a few days ago
Friday night until Sunday lunchtime is family time for me. I do wanna do that event tho. Its purely on road fuel and road tyres unlike most so it’s what it should be in my eyes for that.
@StavTech that's great performance on the 1.8t. It Totally surprised me how it comes on boost. I've been looking at Holsets and I have a HX35 10cm twin scroll for my OM606 with a modified injection pump. I want about 400hp at the wheels. Unfortunately the big HP turbos are eye wateringly expensive for diesel applications. I don't want to belch smoke everywhere (I live in Germany and Ze Germans, vud not like zat very much) while building boost hence the HX35.
Ok so, I have a 94 Integra GSR still naturally aspirated with what I’d call a “hot” air intake. Seeing your video has peaked my obsession with manufacturing a highly efficient ram air intake for the large manifold I am putting on the vehicle. To make things short I was originally going to look for a prime area to cut an air feed into the vehicle and pipe into the manifold but the air box had made me spiral a bit into Helmholtz resonance which I see is used often on bike intakes. Does the air box really hold any weight in power production and efficiency or is it mainly to quiet turbulence, making for less noise in your cabin? Cool car btw, I love purpose built vehicles which are driven often 👍🏽
For mine the job of the airbox (rather than just using the whole interior as the airbox as i originally did) was on hot days the interior wasn’t as cold as outside regardless, so the airbox is just more efficient. Potentially it might potentially have a secondary slight ram air effect at speed now it’s sealed but that would be a coincidence and not planned for. If you can put an open filter somewhere where it truly only takes in cold air, there’s no need for an airbox, which makes things way simpler
Pure show and shine car, air ride and Rotiforms next. Nah, road, half mile, mile, sprint events, and generally racing cunts. Unlikely track days as I always get bored after 10min on track.
I would personally have guessed the door being lower pressure than 1 atmos while driving at decent speeds. But you never know for sure unless you measure.
He finished it this afternoon, so probably in the next video. I’ve heard it though, no rasp which is awesome for a n/a performance exhaust, and not as loud as I expected either
At the risk of sounding like a noob, is the gauge showing 30psi at idle as it’s measuring atmospheric pressure? So assume under boost and the gauge shows 60+ psi that’s 30psi of boost
Car runs 30psi boost. That gauge is purely to check what the antilag is doing if I’m testing at a standstill. It’s in inches of Mercury absolute, so 30inhg is normal atmo pressure. For boost pressure I just look at the datalog after, too fast to look at even the rev counter when driving
That airbox looks like its taken from some sort of agricultural machine with 1000hp, like forage harvester or something like it :D Also ALS video when? Asking for a friend...
On your question regarding cameras, take a look at sony. It might cost you a bit more but they have some great options. Maybe pick up a used A6400 or an ZV-E10. or if your a big baller a ZV-E1
So sick! I love seeing the fast progression with this car.
In terms of aero considerations for the rear window, I’d recommend speaking to Andrew Brilliant. He made the aero package for Peter Ziele’s hill climb MR2 so must have a level of understanding about the nuances of the roof line. Alternatively, throw some cheap vortexes on the roof to see if that lowers the pressure against the rear window!
Your GoPro needs a CAI mate
It's insane what you've done , hats off to you mate
Thank you. I just think outside the box.
@@StavTech Thinking outside the box to put the box on the inside lol. Looks fucking killer.
Reminds me of the Merc you had with the turbo inside the car! Mental setup pal, keep it up 👍
That has to be the craziest dose i have ever heard 😂
Great and crazy work as always. Love these type of intake/filter housings.
The work on the Porsche is top notch as expected.
Trying to understand aerodynamics is like going crazy. You think you figured it out and out comes a series of unexpected results
for some reason its rare to see build turbo cars with proper size airfilters. maybe ppl dont understand how much engines really need air at high loads and rpm. your setup is really well done and sized
Thank you.
It’s why Japan always used to have the trend of metal intake pipes on their cars- The air filters they all used to run were so small and restrictive anything but metal would suck shut.
It’s hard to fit a decent unrestricted air filter for big power in an engine bay, but people really should put more effort in to it as it’s holding a lot of cars back
beautiful setup, proper racecar!
Mega ! Love that ! Remember talking to you about how to section the filter off but yeah never thought of that way.
Love it, keep it up!
that huge box looks awesome, bet ppl wonder that the hell is that 🤣
So, you going to have to draw air in from the rear window and test this then haha.
Love the sound this engine makes with your tune
Gopros do suck, you have to look at people like Whistlindiesel who just film on iphones and admit the quality is a lot better!
One consideration for the rally/RX cars is that they expect to ingest a lot of dust so have relatively fine filters, and a lot of area to maintain the airflow and make it harder to block - you can go smaller with a typical oiled/foam performance filter. OEM airboxes can actually perform quite well - better even than some popular cold air intakes. Most people aren’t measuring differential pressure across the filter/intake though so have no idea. But I think your setup will probably be the god tier of ‘enough, cold’ air.
Time to get the wool tufts out for the window vents and door intake - be interesting to see how well the air stays attached to the leading edge.
Great work as always though 👍
Exactly. He does his on iPhones and I’ve only done mine on them for a few months. Only time bothered with GoPro is for on-in car stuff as a little easier to mount, but not much
Gopro has always sucked compared to the alternatives but Gopro has much better marketing.
Not sure how it is with plexiglass but when mounting regular windshield you need to use special primer that gets applied onto both the windshield and the metal
Yeah I bet that was the issue
Stav, if you are wondering about where low and high pressure zone are, or the difference between two spots just get a magnehelic gauge (hope i got the word correctly) and it should help you get proper results/data for you to work with and further improve on your mad ideas.
Yeah I have an electronic manometer (basically same thing) which I was thinking of using to test stuff. I need to see if it can datalog with it though as can’t watch it while driving really!
Please do it cause I’m pretty sure the intake is in a Low pressure area. Or at least a very messy air flow area because of the wheel arches. Anyway, I’m also into that MASSIVE air box club !
Also I forgot, you might have the air flow coming from the bottom of the windshield (high pressure area) coming into the cabin via the ventilation system, and exiting through your rear vents.
@@PapotsGaragewas going to suggest this.
@stav_tech maybe the wind you are feeling is the airflow going past your head from front of cabin out through the vents?
Defo a lot of good suggestions here though and the wool idea should be a fairly quick and easy test to confirm direction of flow at those vents 👍🏻
Can you show the vent some more and explain what's going off with that or have I missed a video?
You can tape 100mm of wool in places and watch how it behaves, to get a better understanding of how air is travelling around the car and vents. Obvs you've got a gopro so you can attach that to film the behaviour of the wool.
You can also hot glue small sections of plastic to make vents/wings and change the air flow through pressure change.
I know a guy who built a full body kit car and modified the body quite extensively. The front facing bonnet vent was pushing air out, not in as you'd expect.
NOTE: He crashed that car doing tests with wool because he didn't have a camera and wasn't paying full attention in a beast of a car... Don't be that guy and use a camera 😂👍
Fucking awesome build, I'm going to copy you but I'll prob use soke random cheap platform for the drive train.
Keep up the good work buddy 👍😎
Can’t get a cheaper and easier platform than a mk3 MR2 to 1.8T mid engine swap. Anything else will be way more money and work.
Vent is shown/explained in the last vid a few days ago
Street weekend is on this weekend drag and drive at santa pod and melbourne raceway would be a cool event to take it too
Friday night until Sunday lunchtime is family time for me. I do wanna do that event tho. Its purely on road fuel and road tyres unlike most so it’s what it should be in my eyes for that.
Wicked car! Can you please remind me of your turbo? Is it a Holset HX40? If it is a holset, what spec is it? It comes on very strong!
Just a normal Holset HX40 16cm twin scroll. Cast wheel. 11 blade turbine. Nothing custom
@StavTech that's great performance on the 1.8t. It Totally surprised me how it comes on boost. I've been looking at Holsets and I have a HX35 10cm twin scroll for my OM606 with a modified injection pump. I want about 400hp at the wheels. Unfortunately the big HP turbos are eye wateringly expensive for diesel applications. I don't want to belch smoke everywhere (I live in Germany and Ze Germans, vud not like zat very much) while building boost hence the HX35.
Ok so, I have a 94 Integra GSR still naturally aspirated with what I’d call a “hot” air intake. Seeing your video has peaked my obsession with manufacturing a highly efficient ram air intake for the large manifold I am putting on the vehicle. To make things short I was originally going to look for a prime area to cut an air feed into the vehicle and pipe into the manifold but the air box had made me spiral a bit into Helmholtz resonance which I see is used often on bike intakes. Does the air box really hold any weight in power production and efficiency or is it mainly to quiet turbulence, making for less noise in your cabin?
Cool car btw, I love purpose built vehicles which are driven often 👍🏽
For mine the job of the airbox (rather than just using the whole interior as the airbox as i originally did) was on hot days the interior wasn’t as cold as outside regardless, so the airbox is just more efficient.
Potentially it might potentially have a secondary slight ram air effect at speed now it’s sealed but that would be a coincidence and not planned for.
If you can put an open filter somewhere where it truly only takes in cold air, there’s no need for an airbox, which makes things way simpler
What will you do with it when it's done? Trackdays or just road?
Pure show and shine car, air ride and Rotiforms next.
Nah, road, half mile, mile, sprint events, and generally racing cunts. Unlikely track days as I always get bored after 10min on track.
I would personally have guessed the door being lower pressure than 1 atmos while driving at decent speeds.
But you never know for sure unless you measure.
Was the R5 GTT airbox the inspiration for that one?
No, but that’s a good airbox as standard ones go
did you get any video of the Porsche exhaust
He finished it this afternoon, so probably in the next video. I’ve heard it though, no rasp which is awesome for a n/a performance exhaust, and not as loud as I expected either
At the risk of sounding like a noob, is the gauge showing 30psi at idle as it’s measuring atmospheric pressure? So assume under boost and the gauge shows 60+ psi that’s 30psi of boost
Car runs 30psi boost. That gauge is purely to check what the antilag is doing if I’m testing at a standstill. It’s in inches of Mercury absolute, so 30inhg is normal atmo pressure.
For boost pressure I just look at the datalog after, too fast to look at even the rev counter when driving
Pretty sure the gauge is in inches of Mercury
@@StavTech learned something new thanks for the info 👍
That airbox looks like its taken from some sort of agricultural machine with 1000hp, like forage harvester or something like it :D Also ALS video when? Asking for a friend...
It’s not from any engine or vehicle until now.
ALS video when I get the chance
Looks like commercial dust extraction ducting to me.
On your question regarding cameras, take a look at sony. It might cost you a bit more but they have some great options. Maybe pick up a used A6400 or an ZV-E10. or if your a big baller a ZV-E1
Trust me, I’m not a big baller. Just checked the cost of a used A6400, yeah nah, I’ll stick to what I got then 😂
@@StavTech Yeah maybe just use an iphone until you can justify the cost
@@scott7024 at that cost that will be never lol
Exhaust is mint so needs manifolds doing now
Yeah, the standard ones are a real let down now
is your gauge maxed out or is it just that stable
Maxed out. It doesn’t read very high. I purely use it when static testing or setting up the antilag. Aside from that I look at boost on the datalog.
What boost levels are you running in the car? I don't see many cars running 40 psi like my build so I'm always curious
I should clarify I don't see many 4cyl running over 20 psi unless extremely built
Do you have an other platform to comm on looks like your shop does custom stuff I need some certain things made I like your style
Gordon Murray’s the bloke speak to
I got a feeling he’s got better things to do than speak to me about my cheapy home brew car
Go Pro has gone to shit.
Other camera companie need to step up man
Thrust bearing nose
No
Its pronounced 'manifold', not 'header'. Get it right.
Eh? I say manifolds.