Changing Discovery 1 Rear Springs and Sway Bar Ball Joints | 4K
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- In today's video, we are changing out the rear springs in our 1998 Land Rover Discovery 1 NAS, along with the sway bar ball joints. We had recently added new pieces as part of our overland build and found the old factory springs too tired to be up to the challenge, not only were they sagging, the Disco was also listing to one side pretty bad.
Terrafirma TF023V Springs - alnk.to/cHGSBIU
Sway Bar Ball Joints, Pair with Bushings - www.britishpar...
All Tools Used In Process - www.amazon.com...
CHECK OUT OUR MERCH STORE - www.2ndhandover...
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Ready for this adventure to be completed. These videos have been super helpful, especially that front end. Passenger side was a journey (Didnt have the correct tools). Got the drivers front end done without even taking the wheel off. So its definitely a practice. Currently doing the 2" Terrafirma lift, new shocks, springs, and shock towers on the front completed, and new shocks and springs on rear today and tomorrow. Its a 95 D1 152,000miles. Her parts are pretty secured. So the sawzall has been my best friend. My boyfriend got excited and cut the Shock Mount Bolt out, so replacing that as well. I have great plans for this Disco. She shall climb mountains and be the camping adventure traveler of our dreams. Thanks for the BPU link, why do they have everything we want/need for the Disco
Thank you friend!!!
Looking sharp. I love the 2” lift route when it comes to multi purpose vehicles and have always thought Defenders and Discos looked spot on.
Thanks! She definitely does look good standing taller! Can’t wait to get the fronts in!
D2s came with a rubberized spring seat which can be used on bot top and bottom of those springs; adds a tiny bit of lift while also softening and quieting the ride a bit.
Nice channel, thanks for showing the fixes you doing by yourself.
If you looking for a nice rust protective paint, ZRC galvilite.
If you put on bare metal it keeps the rust monster away.
I used in a coastal area with high humidity and warm weather.
Some parts i used it on are allready 6yrs out in the elements with only 2 coats of this stuff on it.
Will definitely look into it, thank you so much!
Well done, old disco work 👍
Thank you!
Looking good for next weekend's camping trip.
Thanks buddy! Had some issues though that I’m gonna have to get handled by Thursday! Why the hell is it I’m always working on this thing up to the last minute before every trip? Lol!
I was looking forward to this video! Great tips thank you
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching!
Been there done that on my former 110 Land Rover. It is exactly the same as the disco. Looking under there,one of your future videos is going to be on how to rust proof under the disco. Great video , I enjoyed watching you do it...and no swearing...lol.
It was definitely a lot less frustrating, so my potty mouth was in check, for sure!
Matt, be aware you are may well need to secure that spring up top as it will pop out on big axle articulation and momentum that overcomes the sway-bar. If you are really unlucky spring will dig into your tyre…
The longer droop from the damper mount will allow it to drop too far for the spring length. I had custom 2” longer springs same ride height, lowered damper mounts and even then I’d pop a spring out. In RTV trials we use hose clamps to keep the top of the spring in (also really chunky zip-ties work) and even then I’d bust em. That is why there are those cone spring re-locator things. Personally I’d be worried how easy they went in!
Also be careful about those TF dampers, our basic research (about 8 yr ago) suggested that they don’t have huge travel so you can seriously top-out and snap the top mount off. The problem with damper measurements is that they are all different. I’ve just spent ages trying to replace my old deCarbon dampers I had custom back in 2002 that I snapped the top mount off recently (slight rust in the weld). The only dampers I can find that offer the same travel and closed length are Fox Perf IFP 2.0 +2. Our measurements ages ago on the TF dampers suggested you needed their +2 to get the same travel as standard yet they were longer closed so hit the top hard and so need longer bump stops dropping the mounts make it worse. I just want you to know so you can check yourself, to be safe. YMMV.
PS not hating on the TF specifically. I just cut open a yellow damper (not identifiable but seemed to have a green undercoat and maybe a elliptical badge) and was disappointed at the minimal shims and thick for compression and rebound. Got to cut open the broken deCarbon next (very carefully due to gas pressure)…
Boy, you couldn’t have been more right, Gavin. We snapped the top half off of the right rear shock on the way into camp last night. Took the shock off and then managed to cam the sway bar ball joints right back into the springs so far I had to pull over, jack her up and pry them outta the spring and disconnect the sway bar for the trip home. I’m ordering standard too shock mounts first thing in the morning and reaching out to a certain vendor in the morning to see if they want to stand behind the shocks they sold me. I didn’t even put this lowered mounts on for the added droop, I was in a hurry to take the Disco on a trip earlier this summer and snapped the OEM swapping to the TF shocks. Pretty frustrating!
@@MattKester sorry to hear that, I hoped to save you the boingy trip home. I used to destroy oem [woodhead, made 20 miles from me back then] on a regular basis on my disco when full articulation on trials. LR dealer laughed in my face when I asked for warranty as I’d used it off-road. Ended up buying some deCarbon std length and 7 years later it was still on them. Bought deCarbon special ones for the 90 in 2002 and only broke one last month,due to rust on the top mount to shaft weakening it. DeCarbon were bought out and seemed to have withered away under Delphi.That and always using SuperPro bushes.
Mate of mine was designing a special so we had the CAD kinematic models so lots of measurements. We were surprised at the variance between manufacturers.
Interested to see if the vendor will do anything. I spoke to the Fox importer here in the UK and he made it clear no warranty if I used them in competition even slow, careful trials. He even said that for the performance series ifp shock rear they use a different bushing than Fox supply. We had issues years ago with procomp busting the loop off at the weld too. Rancho had issues too. Hard bushes at the top and bottom don’t allow enough flex so strain the top & bottom so one breaks.
I dig the channel, you may want to pick up a set of extended brake lines. Keep it up sir
I hear you on those brake lines. Gonna try to get a set ordered next week.
@@MattKester I like your channel and would like to support you. I have a mixed set of extended brake lines my d1 also is taller in the rear then front.. I can send you and mark what they are just need to know your address. It will be full set of rovertym (circa 2011) half rear set of Goodrich. ( Rears only +2) all braided stainless. Both never been used. Let me know.
Miles, we'd love to have them and make a install video with them! Thank you so much for the support, it means a lot! Our Mailing address is as follows:
2nd Hand Overland
3120 W Carefree Highway
STE 1 #133
Phoenix, AZ 85086
First, next time you need to knock loose a ball joint, bolt (or whatever), but need to protect the threads, simply put the nut back on a few turns by hand and hit that with the hammer. Saves the threads and rarely causes any harm to the nut, which is usually easily replaced anyway, if need be.
Also, since you are doing the front springs soon, be aware that the fronts are not interchangeable... There's a right (passenger in the US) side spring and a left (driver) side. If you mix them up, the car will lean to one side, much as you described. (Don't ask me how I know.)
I replaced all my badly sagging OEM springs at about 40K miles many years with Old Man Emu (OME) medium rate. They worked great until I had to tow a trailer with a relatively heavy tongue weight (2x or 3x what the Disco is rated for).
I added some inflatable boosters inside the rear springs and they work great. I leave them around 5 psi when not towing and inflate to around 30 psi when towing and/or hauling a heavy load. Those aren't something I'd install if planning extreme off-roadng, but my Disco is more of a work truck.
BTW, I've got some 85K or more miles on a set of Bilstiens... Those are still working, but probably due for a replacement soon. I was considering the Terrafirma, would be interested to hear what you think of them and will look to see if you've done a video.
P.S. British Parts Utah is a very good source. I've used them for years and they usually beat all the other Rover specialists' prices. They offer both aftermarket and BPU even manage some discount on OEM Rover parts.
Still always shop around... For example, I got Timken wheel bearings from Rock Auto (currently $11 a set, which is far less than any of the Rover specialists charge for the exact same part).
The terrafirmas already crapped out, I don't recommend them. Genuine Land Rover, OME or Bilstein.
Fed. Make sure her D1 gets a wash and polish and take some pictures dude ? Might see an image of your missus rig in the next Britpart accessory catalogue ! V
I enjoyed this even tough I don’t own a Land Rover. After looking at several Discoverys recently, my wife decided , unanimously, that I don’t need one !☹️ I think I’ll go get her Wrangler dirty. Maybe then she’ll change her mind!👍
Now if it would only rain.🧐
She might be onto something! It’ll probably be harder to find time for her if you’re wrenching on an old Rover all the time! Lol
Fyi watch out for the brake soft line at the rear axle. Looks like it got stretched pretty good.
Interestingly enough, the brake wasn’t what failed on the trail this weekend, it was the dang shock!
@@MattKester dang
I hope this is as easy on my 00' Disco2
It's about as easy, but you might need to use a bottle jack between the frame and axle to push them apart. The lift springs on the D2 are taller than factory ones. Also, disconnect shocks and sway bar.
I hope it is for you. I'd definitely take Fitz Venture's word for, I've seen his rig and know what he's been through with it!