Another great "How I Do it" Video! I Don't believe I have seen you do a recall video, so the fact that your work stands the test of time shows the armchair quarterbacks your method works just fine. Keep up the good work! thanks for taking us along for the ride!
It always slides under the mechanism board so you have to take it all the way back out again, hahaha Sometimes I can tilt the whole damn machine sideways on it's legs and shake it until the screw rolls out from under the mechanism board but only about half the time!
I agree, you should use both pads. The new "Stuff We Gotta Do" pad caricature is hilarious and captures the vibe of your channel. Nice nod to The Queen of Soul, Aretha Franklin. Rock Steady/Rock Steady/let's peek inside that backbox/and see how it is/move the probe from left to right.....
haha I've been listening to "Who's Zoomin' Who" lately that's one of the funniest songs of all time, it's just hilarious if you really get into the lyrics and figure out what she's talking about, it's like she's reminding people that when she was younger she was a pretty good lookin' woman :)
I think you need to use both pads. Awesome Mr. Kluge design for all and Minges for your U.K. viewers. Lol I can’t believe you are using that solder in this phase of the moon. 😜
Ron, I love your pinball, jukebox and arcade machine repair videos! I almost want to find on old, dilapidated Galaga machine and rehab it like you're doing with all the machines you feature on your channel.
Attract mode is the hardest on the bridge rectifier for the controlled lamps. If the attract is lighting a ton of lamps, the whole heatsink can get super hot especially if the game also has an aux lamp board. If you go into diagnostics where all the controlled lamps are off, the heatsink will totally cool off.
Appreciate your videos. Your channel has helped me tremendously with my first pinball machine. From reading schematics, cleaning and waxing the playfield, to rebuilding flippers, adjusting switches, cleaning up stepper units, etc etc ... I keep going back to rewatch old videos because I remember you talking about something I am troubleshooting. Again thanks and keep making videos and repairing these ol suckahs!
Thanks Jason we appreciate you watching! We're trying to help people get the guts to delve into repairing one, once you kind of work on them a little bit it's not that daunting. Thanks for watching!
You're thoughts are pretty good. If you are going to replace a diode in case it might fail, you should replace every chip on the MPU board and the like as well. If wear over time was an issue, chips would fail sooner as the are on a smaller scale. Don't fix what ain't broke. That solder you are using is absolutely fine and as long as the temp is enough to make a nice joint, your style is fine. I prefer using older solder. The new "Lead Free" solder is crap and is a lot harder to get nice joints with. These machines used solder with Lead in them when they were made, keep using the old solder on them :) They don't label capacitors like that GE one anymore. The Working Voltage is the Surge Voltage these days. New capacitors are not tolerant of over-voltage at all. I noticed that capacitor said 85 AMBIENT written on it. New caps are rated at 85 or 105 internal temperature, not ambient. Being 1977 it maybe needed replacing as it could have dried out a bit, but it would have been a good quality cap at the time. You've done another brilliant job on this machine :)
Thank you Brendan, that makes sense about the internal vs. ambient, it's neat seeing all this older stuff and how it differs from more modern parts.... I've heard the new solder is junk without the lead too :) Thanks for watching man, we appreciate you tuning in as always!
I love the pad with the vermin on it use that for what you have to do. The ruler would be great for measuring rubber rings around the posts. Both are great gifts Ron keep up the awesome work.
Great idea for the ruler! Ron, could you explain how to select and pickup the rubber from a machine? Buying pré-madré kit is great but once you have a few extras, I am not sure how to measure them. 😉
Could there possibly be a limited time, super duper, special edition run for a t-shirt of the scratch pad drawing in the not too distant future? Maybe a brother’s family photo on the back with all the relevant/corresponding websites and TH-cam channels?
We had a pig years ago called turbo...... Those things are stubborn!.... the amount of times the neighbors rang our doorbell saying that he escaped....countless times :P
Hi Ron, battery free video LOL. When people complain about what the joints look like on large through hole stuff it really is not critical at all. How many warranty return have you had by doing it that way? Most likely zero. Cheers.
I’ve never had a bad solder joint but yet people know better because somebody told them there are little leprechauns that will show up years down the road if you don’t do it their way
+85 °C? That's about the heat, we have at sauna here In Finland. And I've survived it many times. BTW. Six Million Dollar Man is very cool pinball of that era. It allows Six players instead four. I was learning my pinball skills with tables like Playboy and Harlem Globetrotters. The double flipper of the latter was pain In the ass, before I figured it out. 😁
took me months to solve the intermittent low voltage issues in my 68 mustang. advice from "online experts" said it's bad grounds and/or frayed & corroded wires i painstakingly checked every inch every wire entire car. turns out fuse holders were metal fatigued soft as butter
JOE"S CLASSIC, the Staedtler bendable rules will help you paint in the boundaries on the playfield without going over the boundary lines? I'm trying to look for something when painting on the playfield that the paint won't crossover the boundary lines to the other colors next to it which happens often. I'm not a great painter so its very sloppy looking, what can I use or do to prevent my repainting the playfield to not crossover the boundary lines to the other colors?
The US flag motif of the cabinet and playfield is a little strange, as the TV show didn't really have a particularly patriotic vibe (apart from the fact he was working for a US intelligence agency), or use such graphics in the credits. It's almost like they were leftover designs for the Evel Knievel machine. And, apart from the test flight crash in the credits, he rarely flew planes in the show. Also, by the time the machine was released, the show was off the air! Thanks for another fun video! I love how you make a point of showing the name on the notepad just to wink at the UK viewers. ;)
Retentioning fuse holders is often a temporary measure. Often corrosion is the main culprit. The holders get hot and because of that the tension goes out of the metal (try heating up a spring to see what happens) Always best to replace if they are really weak.
Opened up my radio cassette player the other day to fix The crackling sound issue and discovered on the board there was a capacitor that looked as if it would burst any second so I’ll have to change that out..never done it before don’t really know how to solder but will try anyway
You can do it man, the main trick is you're trying to heat up both at the same time, so just put the iron on the board right where it meets the cap leg, also sometimes it's easier to just add a little bit of solder to it, it reflows everything, and then you can pull the cap leg out while it's hot (if it's not bent into a hook)
Just a little advise. When you re-solder connections your are mixing old and new solder. Some solders don't mix well (leaded and lead free). And will cause the connection to break down over time. It's best to remove all the old solder and replace with new solder. If you're going to remove the old solder you may as well replace the old header. Love your channel.
He knows from the vintage that it was built with tin/lead, he is repairing with tin/lead so there is no problem. Trying to remove leaded solder and replace it with lead free is a fools errand, you will never remove all of the lead. If you are going to fix stuff that was built with tin/lead you need to repair it with tin/lead solder. The other way round can make more sense, if you want to use leaded solder to repair something that was originally built with lead-free.
@@petermichaelgreen I guess he had the old solder analyzed to be sure no one added lead-free solder in the last 30 years. There could also be other contaminants - battery acid, dirt, etc. that don’t mix well with new solder. It might be a fool's errand but I never re-solder without removing the old solder. And I never use lead-free solder. Aerospace and aviation will not allow the use of lead-free solder.
I say use the new pads because, a kludge or kluge is a workaround or quick-and-dirty solution that is clumsy, inelegant, inefficient, difficult to extend and hard to maintain. Kinda says it all eh? Or not, you could continue to be a minges! XD
Hey Ron Maybe you cam help im looking for the schematics for a 1973 Midway Duck Hunt! Do you know where i could find one? ive searched high and Low and nothing willing to pay!
I'd bet money you could get it from www.PBResource.com . They mainly do pinball but they carry schematics for gun games and as far as I know they have about everything.
If you click on our channel name and click videos, they were the videos uploaded in the days before and after this video they're all in order on the channel. There is also a playlist for these Six Million Dollar Man videos here: th-cam.com/video/P5pBLaKBRx8/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Hey, I got an atari san fran rush 2049 and I want to set up free play but I don't see a test mode button when I open the coin slot... the research i have done says it should be there... do I just need to buy one and install it or am I blind and it is hiding in there somewhere?
When you open the coin door inside the hole there should be 4 different buttons, on the left side of the cabinet behind that door.... it would be strange for them not to be there because they all had them and it would take a lot of trouble to remove them :) If yours are definitely gone you can make any button work but you'd have to figure out where the wiring is that is supposed to run to them. Open the door and look to the left about 6" back.
@@LyonsArcade can I get your email address to send you pictures of what I see? There is a metal piece there for it with clips and a label but the piece is not
With the grounds and 5v's going off the board, looping through from a connector and going back to the same board... What's that all about..? Any known benefits from doing so? Some sort of fail-safe, maybe..? You've mentioned this before a couple of times, but I can't get my head around why they're done this way...
We have all kind of decided that they did it that way because it was easier to jump it over a trace by doing that, LOL It doesn't work as a fail safe because that same connector has the source voltage on it (12 volts).... so if you remove that connector you remove the source and the output of the voltage (and nothing in the game will work with it unplugged)
Once you remove that board from the metal bracket, it would be a good idea to clean off the old dried out thermal paste from the bridge rectifiers, and apply some fresh compound.
I usually also replace the screws, when they get old they have rust on them (sometimes you can't see it) and they don't properly conduct heat, plus they may break the next time you take them off. Better safe than sorry, only takes a few seconds and doesn't cost much.
I fixed inoperable headlights on a series 3 Jaguar by retentioning the fuse holders of the same design. Good old Lucas. That's a whole other video series tho...
Love the Minges! Who doesn't? Both notepads are great!
Another great "How I Do it" Video! I Don't believe I have seen you do a recall video, so the fact that your work stands the test of time shows the armchair quarterbacks your method works just fine.
Keep up the good work! thanks for taking us along for the ride!
They still break sometimes later :)
Alternating Minge and Stuff to do sounds OK. Chapeau to Mr Klug for an awesome personalised headed paper, and thanks as always for doing the video.
Thanks for keeping me company while I played “where’d that screw get to?” for about an hour while fixing up a Gottlieb’s Free Fall.
It always slides under the mechanism board so you have to take it all the way back out again, hahaha Sometimes I can tilt the whole damn machine sideways on it's legs and shake it until the screw rolls out from under the mechanism board but only about half the time!
@@LyonsArcade That’s how they’ll find me. Crushed to death under a wedge head clutching a teenie weenie screw.
The evicted mouse on the Kluge stationary is a nice touch, too! lol
ROCK STEADY
Gentlemen, we can rebuild him. We have the technology.
like the side art on that one
Love that drawing. That's really flattering, you know.
It's pretty cool!
The solder is too thick and too thin, its got too much tin and not enough, also too old but not old enough :) lolz... so glad I found this channel.
Thanks for watching Peter, glad you enjoy it :)
Absolutely use both, the new one is good looking and neat, but Minges is legendary "old school". And thanx for an entertaining and edjucating video!!
Ron, thanks for another entertaining & informative video. My vote is to use both note pads.
Use em both ! Cheers.
I agree, you should use both pads. The new "Stuff We Gotta Do" pad caricature is hilarious and captures the vibe of your channel. Nice nod to The Queen of Soul, Aretha Franklin. Rock Steady/Rock Steady/let's peek inside that backbox/and see how it is/move the probe from left to right.....
haha I've been listening to "Who's Zoomin' Who" lately that's one of the funniest songs of all time, it's just hilarious if you really get into the lyrics and figure out what she's talking about, it's like she's reminding people that when she was younger she was a pretty good lookin' woman :)
@@LyonsArcade Right!
I think you need to use both pads. Awesome Mr. Kluge design for all and Minges for your U.K. viewers. Lol
I can’t believe you are using that solder in this phase of the moon. 😜
I like the notepads with the repair perthon on them!
"UF"?!?! What is this? "Microfarad" There it is! ha ha. I vote to use both scratch pads. That artwork is pretty good.
Ron, I love your pinball, jukebox and arcade machine repair videos! I almost want to find on old, dilapidated Galaga machine and rehab it like you're doing with all the machines you feature on your channel.
You should Rudy, if you can find one you can save!
Use both pads. Keep up the good videos!
Thanks Jamie we appreciate you hanging out with us!
Love your videos... Keep 'em coming!
Attract mode is the hardest on the bridge rectifier for the controlled lamps. If the attract is lighting a ton of lamps, the whole heatsink can get super hot especially if the game also has an aux lamp board. If you go into diagnostics where all the controlled lamps are off, the heatsink will totally cool off.
Appreciate your videos. Your channel has helped me tremendously with my first pinball machine. From reading schematics, cleaning and waxing the playfield, to rebuilding flippers, adjusting switches, cleaning up stepper units, etc etc ... I keep going back to rewatch old videos because I remember you talking about something I am troubleshooting. Again thanks and keep making videos and repairing these ol suckahs!
Thanks Jason we appreciate you watching! We're trying to help people get the guts to delve into repairing one, once you kind of work on them a little bit it's not that daunting. Thanks for watching!
You're thoughts are pretty good. If you are going to replace a diode in case it might fail, you should replace every chip on the MPU board and the like as well. If wear over time was an issue, chips would fail sooner as the are on a smaller scale. Don't fix what ain't broke.
That solder you are using is absolutely fine and as long as the temp is enough to make a nice joint, your style is fine. I prefer using older solder. The new "Lead Free" solder is crap and is a lot harder to get nice joints with. These machines used solder with Lead in them when they were made, keep using the old solder on them :)
They don't label capacitors like that GE one anymore. The Working Voltage is the Surge Voltage these days. New capacitors are not tolerant of over-voltage at all. I noticed that capacitor said 85 AMBIENT written on it. New caps are rated at 85 or 105 internal temperature, not ambient. Being 1977 it maybe needed replacing as it could have dried out a bit, but it would have been a good quality cap at the time.
You've done another brilliant job on this machine :)
Thank you Brendan, that makes sense about the internal vs. ambient, it's neat seeing all this older stuff and how it differs from more modern parts.... I've heard the new solder is junk without the lead too :) Thanks for watching man, we appreciate you tuning in as always!
I love the pad with the vermin on it use that for what you have to do. The ruler would be great for measuring rubber rings around the posts. Both are great gifts Ron keep up the awesome work.
Great idea for the ruler! Ron, could you explain how to select and pickup the rubber from a machine? Buying pré-madré kit is great but once you have a few extras, I am not sure how to measure them. 😉
Could there possibly be a limited time, super duper, special edition run for a t-shirt of the scratch pad drawing in the not too distant future? Maybe a brother’s family photo on the back with all the relevant/corresponding websites and TH-cam channels?
"Rock steady baby!" Already in anticipation of the next one :)
We had a pig years ago called turbo...... Those things are stubborn!.... the amount of times the neighbors rang our doorbell saying that he escaped....countless times :P
minges are great , go with that
Hi Ron, battery free video LOL. When people complain about what the joints look like on large through hole stuff it really is not critical at all. How many warranty return have you had by doing it that way? Most likely zero. Cheers.
I’ve never had a bad solder joint but yet people know better because somebody told them there are little leprechauns that will show up years down the road if you don’t do it their way
Yep for sure that flea market solder will cause problems.... JK thanks for another great video!
Yup they can’t resist
Yay. Part 2 of the repairs :). So excited to see this in working condition
I clicked on your Amazon link there's my royalty to this awesome channel :)
Thanks DJ!
+85 °C? That's about the heat, we have at sauna here In Finland. And I've survived it many times. BTW. Six Million Dollar Man is very cool pinball of that era. It allows Six players instead four. I was learning my pinball skills with tables like Playboy and Harlem Globetrotters. The double flipper of the latter was pain In the ass, before I figured it out. 😁
took me months to solve the intermittent low voltage issues in my 68 mustang. advice from "online experts" said it's bad grounds and/or frayed & corroded wires i painstakingly checked every inch every wire entire car. turns out fuse holders were metal fatigued soft as butter
Some times fuses that are that old will pop just from age.
Especially the spring looking type.
maybe that's what happened!
JOE"S CLASSIC, the Staedtler bendable rules will help you paint in the boundaries on the playfield without going over the boundary lines? I'm trying to look for something when painting on the playfield that the paint won't crossover the boundary lines to the other colors next to it which happens often. I'm not a great painter so its very sloppy looking, what can I use or do to prevent my repainting the playfield to not crossover the boundary lines to the other colors?
The US flag motif of the cabinet and playfield is a little strange, as the TV show didn't really have a particularly patriotic vibe (apart from the fact he was working for a US intelligence agency), or use such graphics in the credits. It's almost like they were leftover designs for the Evel Knievel machine. And, apart from the test flight crash in the credits, he rarely flew planes in the show.
Also, by the time the machine was released, the show was off the air!
Thanks for another fun video! I love how you make a point of showing the name on the notepad just to wink at the UK viewers. ;)
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Always the best policy.
Ain't that the truth!
Fancy tensioners! Can you buy those on amazon too? :-D
No but I can be rented out
@@LyonsArcade :D
The red rocker!
Retentioning fuse holders is often a temporary measure. Often corrosion is the main culprit. The holders get hot and because of that the tension goes out of the metal (try heating up a spring to see what happens) Always best to replace if they are really weak.
Opened up my radio cassette player the other day to fix The crackling sound issue and discovered on the board there was a capacitor that looked as if it would burst any second so I’ll have to change that out..never done it before don’t really know how to solder but will try anyway
You can do it man, the main trick is you're trying to heat up both at the same time, so just put the iron on the board right where it meets the cap leg, also sometimes it's easier to just add a little bit of solder to it, it reflows everything, and then you can pull the cap leg out while it's hot (if it's not bent into a hook)
Happy New Year. 🤙
Happy New Year X, thanks for hanging out with us!
That’s a space ship on the back glass of the notepad.
Just a little advise. When you re-solder connections your are mixing old and new solder. Some solders don't mix well (leaded and lead free). And will cause the connection to break down over time. It's best to remove all the old solder and replace with new solder. If you're going to remove the old solder you may as well replace the old header.
Love your channel.
No thanks
He knows from the vintage that it was built with tin/lead, he is repairing with tin/lead so there is no problem.
Trying to remove leaded solder and replace it with lead free is a fools errand, you will never remove all of the lead. If you are going to fix stuff that was built with tin/lead you need to repair it with tin/lead solder.
The other way round can make more sense, if you want to use leaded solder to repair something that was originally built with lead-free.
@@petermichaelgreen I guess he had the old solder analyzed to be sure no one added lead-free solder in the last 30 years.
There could also be other contaminants - battery acid, dirt, etc. that don’t mix well with new solder.
It might be a fool's errand but I never re-solder without removing the old solder. And I never use lead-free solder. Aerospace and aviation will not allow the use of lead-free solder.
did you redo the heat sink compound on rectifiers?
Oh of course also new screws, do you put new screws on yours?
I say use the new pads because, a kludge or kluge is a workaround or quick-and-dirty solution that is clumsy, inelegant, inefficient, difficult to extend and hard to maintain. Kinda says it all eh? Or not, you could continue to be a minges! XD
I prefer the Minge to the Kludge but I'm going to use both in reality, LOL
Should should use a combination of both of your scratch pads
I think that's what I'm going to do!
Hey Ron Maybe you cam help im looking for the schematics for a 1973 Midway Duck Hunt! Do you know where i could find one?
ive searched high and Low and nothing willing to pay!
I'd bet money you could get it from www.PBResource.com . They mainly do pinball but they carry schematics for gun games and as far as I know they have about everything.
@@LyonsArcade I will look and see i'll have to email them Thanks
Doctor Ron... First, do no harm, :)
How do I find the other videos in this series? Having trouble….
If you click on our channel name and click videos, they were the videos uploaded in the days before and after this video they're all in order on the channel. There is also a playlist for these Six Million Dollar Man videos here: th-cam.com/video/P5pBLaKBRx8/w-d-xo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
Hey, I got an atari san fran rush 2049 and I want to set up free play but I don't see a test mode button when I open the coin slot... the research i have done says it should be there... do I just need to buy one and install it or am I blind and it is hiding in there somewhere?
When you open the coin door inside the hole there should be 4 different buttons, on the left side of the cabinet behind that door.... it would be strange for them not to be there because they all had them and it would take a lot of trouble to remove them :) If yours are definitely gone you can make any button work but you'd have to figure out where the wiring is that is supposed to run to them. Open the door and look to the left about 6" back.
@@LyonsArcade can I get your email address to send you pictures of what I see? There is a metal piece there for it with clips and a label but the piece is not
I vote for the new note pad. Also minge is not so nice name for lady parts.
With the grounds and 5v's going off the board, looping through from a connector and going back to the same board... What's that all about..? Any known benefits from doing so? Some sort of fail-safe, maybe..? You've mentioned this before a couple of times, but I can't get my head around why they're done this way...
We have all kind of decided that they did it that way because it was easier to jump it over a trace by doing that, LOL
It doesn't work as a fail safe because that same connector has the source voltage on it (12 volts).... so if you remove that connector you remove the source and the output of the voltage (and nothing in the game will work with it unplugged)
I thought that you might look like a cross between joe dirt and macgruber
I'm old enough to know what the sound effect for the 6 million dollar man running.
It wasn't tooooooo long ago :)
I can make it.
But can't spell it out.
What words describe those noises?
Once you remove that board from the metal bracket, it would be a good idea to clean off the old dried out thermal paste from the bridge rectifiers, and apply some fresh compound.
I usually also replace the screws, when they get old they have rust on them (sometimes you can't see it) and they don't properly conduct heat, plus they may break the next time you take them off. Better safe than sorry, only takes a few seconds and doesn't cost much.
whats that sound at 31:30?
It's a frog
God damit, if you stop using the minge, this channel is on a downward spiral 🤣🤣🤣
First!
Yes you are!
@@LyonsArcade love the vids! Thanks again for you and Joe allowing me to film the last time In was in the store!
Second
Yes you are!
I fixed inoperable headlights on a series 3 Jaguar by retentioning the fuse holders of the same design. Good old Lucas. That's a whole other video series tho...