Dont know how old u are, but I remember soaking piston rubber w/brake fluid TOO! ALSO, I used to lubricate wrong clips TOO, until I saw Eric's too! U did an EXCELLENT JOB!! Better than ANY rebuilt u would BUY! Ur fortunate u have shop equipment. 😁
First let me say "BRAVO" 👏 The attention to detail is just perfect. I also heard about that trick with the brake hardware only being greased on the button from Southmainauto but no one else is doing it. I fallow Erick the car guy and he doesn't do it neither but I will definitely tried now. You have a new subscriber my friend and please do more rebuild jobs. Believe me. There isn't that many good videos about it out there.
Should have pushed the piston out most of the way before removing the brake hose. That saves having to scarf it up with plier jaws. And is much safer than using compressed air. In addition, it is good to flush out the dirty fluid in the caliper anyway so getting more fluid into the caliper and drained out is another good thing.
@yusuihang. Pistons that are stuck keep the piston from retracting which causes the brake pads and rotor to get extremely hot. That amount of stuck is far from enough to keep the piston so stuck that it can't be pumped out with the brake pedal. I have never found, in 53 years, a piston so stuck that it won't pump out.
@@yusuihang Even if the piston was seized, you can apply much more force with the brake fluid than you can with pliers or vise grips. Most brake systems will generate at least 1,000 psi. Most pistons have at least 1 square inch of area so that yields 1,000 lbs of force on the piston. Do you think you can pull with 1,000 lbs of force using pliers or even vise grips?
Shadowdog500 I will have to say these cars are so damn reliable man, like literally the car was not maintenaced for 10 years with my dad and it still drives like a dream.
Good job mate. How many people would just do the job, and move on??? Thanks for taking the time to record your version of events. I had to do rear pads on an '07 corolla, and without the 'tube, I would have stuffed up the rear caliper pistons. So this morning, I made a slave piston retraction tool, and got the job done. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. BTW, I wish I had a hoist in my shop !!!
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad this video was a help for you. Whenever I do something in my shop that I think would help others, or others would find interesting, I try to find time to make a video. TH-cam has helped a lot of us learn to do new things. Cheers! Chris
Out side of the caliper piston and pins, no need in greasing anything else. It's not gonna stay there long and a year later or less you'd never knew you even put it on there. Basic lithium grease on the pins and break fluid for the caliper piston seal is all you really need... all that specialty greases is a waste of money.
I will be doing this on 2nd generation Sienna using Toyotas oem kit which is excellent, though pricey but well worth it to me. Looking at the rubber boot installation I could not see clearly which side of the boot faces in and which side faces out. Looking at the new one on hand , I can see the brand name ( Aisin) and what looks like the part number inscribed on one of the folds on the boot. It would have been nice if you made mention of this , assuming your kit had similar markings. I guess I will have to look carefully on the one I will be removing so I get it right. Thanks for a great video overall.
@@shadowdog500 Hi, thanks for you reply. i am having trouble seeing a groove on my boot . The outermost "ring" has an upward taper so what I will do is try and remove the ring first upon dissasembly so the boot comes out whole. That way I can compare. I'll update when I am done. Regards
Got done with installing the oem caliper kit. The caliper boot is epdm rubber , mine was still in good shape , even after 18 years. The manufacturer is Aisin and all the markings including the part number and so on , face out when installing. Hope this helps.
All of them but only if you are willing to pay an hour and a half labor at $160 or so dollars + parts $40 or replace the caliper with an aftermarket one for half an hour labor at $54 and caliper for $80, so between the two, what would you pay for? I think it's a great idea if you are doing it yourself but if you have to pay someone, it makes no sense
Typical Harbor Freight! Sometimes you get a good one and sometimes you don’t. Mine has worked great. I don’t use the black end that was supposed to slip over the bleeder because it was too loose for me. The hose end works great over the bleeders by itself. Glad you like the video and the transformer blowing. Thanks, Chris
This was my job this weekend on a 09 mazda 6. I used compressed air (around 20psi) to get the pistons out (be careful), also it was bitch to get the dust boot and the piston all seated well. Once i found the trick though it took only minutes.
@@topfuelteddy I didn't see any 'trick' either. All I was was he put the piston all the way in first, lay the boot on it then pushed the boot in! But here's a trick I found yesterday from 2017. Seeing that's 5 years ago and I haven't seen it anywhere else and the guy claims to have invented it... Well, I'm surprised. It worked for me. There's no securing clip on this one though. th-cam.com/video/wvOpg7hASLs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your detailed and SO reasonable right minded video encouraging us all to be green. the 2nd "R" of Reduce > Reuse -> recycle. We too have a similar shop: hoist, lathes, etc. BUT....the TI ME ?? where to find it. Btw, about 8:45 onward, you were making me hungry the dinner plates upper right, and then, after watching carefully - Where's Bubby's "All You Can Eat" Texas BBQ ? ;-)
Lofts Sympatico I keep a stack of waxed paper plates in my shop just for working on small things that may try to roll away or may make a mess. After the job I throw the plate away. Same thing with the brown paper on my workbench. If I want a clean work-surface I just toss a new piece of brown paper on the bench. I don’t think that BBQ sign is associated with an actual Resturant. It says “ Bubba's all you can eat texas bbq, home of the world famous burnt everything”. Glad you liked the video! Chris
I found the workshop manual for my car and for three different models of the car it had three different instructions on what to put on the seal ring. One said silicone grease, one red rubber grease and the other just said brake fluid. I decided it really can't matter too much.
It does matter what you use. You need to use something that won’t swell the rubber seal and is compatible with the brake fluid. I think I mentioned that I did use break fluid in the past, and that it is an option. But the piston is much more difficult to push in with just brake fluid on it. I never heard of using silicone grease on the piston seal, but I do use it on the slide pins for decades.
Thank you for all the detailed information ! Is the Centric kit the same size as Oem ? I recently purchased Raybestos kit and it was smaller diameter than original ones that i had to return them and now going to order Centric kit. My caliper works fine i just want to replace ripped boot to avoid future failure.
They looked the same through the package, but I never opened the Centric one. If you would have asked two weeks ago I could have given you an answer, but I just got rid of the car along with all of the extra parts about two weeks ago so I have no way of doing a detailed comparison of the two. I thought the factory Toyota kit was well worth the extra money since it came with all of the parts and grease to rebuild the caliper and mount on both sides.The centric kit only came with the sealing rubber, the dust boot rubber, and the metal retainer clip. I also knew that the factory kit was a quality Toyota product which probably would have gone another 15 years. No telling how many years the centric kit would have lasted. Sorry I can’t help more. Chris
To avoid clamping brake hoses you can simply press the brake pedal and prop it against the front of the drivers seat with a stick, this will close off the fluid from the reservoir. Disconnect the battery or pull the brake light fuse first though to avoid draining the battery
Twig. Thanks for the tip. I am aware of that method and have used my spring loaded brake pedal depressor to do stuff like this in the past, but I still had to bock off the line to keep the fluid from slowly dripping out, so I just block the lines off now. I only pinch lines that I am going to replace, that is why I used the old piece of inter tube and a clamp to seal off the banjo fitting. I recently bought an OTC line plug set that I really like that seals off brake and fuel lines as well as banjo fittings without clamping the line. You can see the kit used in the brake video I did a couple weeks ago. Thanks, Chris
The only fluid that drains out is in the line going to the master cylinder (and it is unlikely that the whole length of that circuit will drain as air needs to get that far) but what is in the master cylinder reservoir stays in it as the return hole in it's bore is blocked by the piston.
Great video. I've done dozens of brake jobs over the years but I still like learning other peoples' tricks and tips and learning something new. What model year Corolla was this?
You're supposed to slide the dust boot to the bottom of the piston. You then install the dust boot into the lip of the caliper. Then you press the piston in all the way which will then allow the dust boot's other lip to slide into the groove of the piston.
@@shadowdog500Well, the way I described it was the way it said in the GM field service manual. Probably different manufacturers have their way of doing it. But the GM way, it went in real easy as some I see have to stuff the boot in with tools.
This video was just what I needed. I’m just waiting for my parts to come. I agree with getting all OEM parts from Toyota. I do have one question. If I don’t have a press to press in the boots like you did. Can I just hammer them in with the socket in place and tap with a hammer? Anyway thanks for the detailed video and Awesome work shop......Very neat and organized. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, you can use a hammer and a socket to put the boots in. Most people do it that way, I just happen to have a press. Thanks!
Luke Skywalker unfortunately I don’t. I found it online somewhere and printed it. I’m sure you can find it with google. My wife got a new car in the spring and we got rid of the Corolla. When we got rid of the car we got rid of everything that went to it, oil filters, parts, manuals, etc to help reduce the clutter in my shop,
I have a 2011 Corolla. After replacing the dust boot on the caliper with generic rebuild kit parts, I can't get the metal ring to seat. It goes in the groove partially, but I can't get it to fully seat in the groove like you did. So, I got a rebuilt caliper directly from Toyota dealer parts, and the metal ring isn't fully seated on it either. It's in the groove partially like yours first was (and like mine now is), but it's not seated like my original was - or like you did with yours. I pointed it out to the parts people at the dealer and they said it was fine, but I think they are guessing. So, I got a genuine Toyota rebuild kit and will try again. Any tips on getting that metal ring to fully seat? My car has been sitting a week while I struggle with that metal ring.
I hope you got it on! There was no trick to getting on. I don’t know what to say other than keep trying. My Corolla was a series 9 Corolla, your Corolla is a series 10 Corolla. Your car uses a different caliper than mine so there may be a difference.
I've never tried it myself, but I've heard an easy way to remove the piston is while it is still attached to the brake line and free from the rotor, pump the brakes and the fluid will push it out. But I'm nowhere close to an expert!
@@jacobhill70 ya, and some people do it this way. but once the piston pops out, you have to release the pedal and that causes negative suction and pulls air into the system. When you do it the more standard way you use a clamp on the brake line and gravity keeps the air out as well while you rebuild the piston. Once connected its an easy bleed to get the air out of the calipers.
I'm glad you liked the video. I do wear gloves occasionally if im going to get filthy. i don't wear them for stuff like this because my hands sweat and get like prunes if i wear them all day. We were also taught decades ago that gloves and rings catch on things and you can lose parts of your hand that way. It really bugs me when I see people wearing gloves around anything mechanical like bench grinders and stuff. Last week OutsideScrewball posted a video about his friend Chewey who was in his videos occasionally who got pulled into a lathe because he was wearing gloves. Never heard brake fluid was poison to skin so i just looked it up. its only a skin irritant, you have to drink it to get poisoned.
Steve, I cleaned the grease off of them with in my parts washer with PSC-1000 which is a really good parts washer fluid from Tractor Supply. After that I soaked them overnight in evapo-rust from Harbor Freight to get the coating of rust off of them. Thanks!!! Chris
You grabbed the piston "up here", but it does mean something: rust will start developing right from the scratched surface and in several years the piston will be done.
I did try to pull it using a strip of leather as soft jaws, but it wouldn't move. You can see the the strip of leather that I commonly use as soft jaws on my workbench behind the rag at 3:09. I have pulled really stuck pistons like this in the past with no long term negative affect. I guess time will tell but it has been two and a half years since I rebuilt the caliper with no problems. Chris
It is a Hoppes universal cleaning kit that can be found for about $15 in the sporting goods section at Walmart. (Walmart # 553910614) They come in handy in the shop. There are multiple size brushes in a good cleaning kit. Not sure what brush I grabbed.
I don’t know how much pitting you have. A new piston is usually around $15 and a rebuilt caliper can usually be had for under $40. If there is any doubt replace the caliper or the piston.
It is a craftsman brand prybar here is a set of three on amazon. Craftsman 3 Piece Curved Pry Bar Set With Strike Cap Handle www.amazon.com/dp/B01M31IT1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.LbeDbHCK6R2C I’m sure there are other brands of pry bars that work just as well. Chris
I'm now concerned that my piston took a significant amount of brute force with a hammer to get back into the caliper, whereas yours just slid in with thumb pressure...
Thanks! I would have loved to have it but for some reason I forgot to hit record. Here are clips from me using my Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder on my old Jeep Grand Cherokee. Connecting the bottle to the master cylinder of my jeep th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html Using the vacuum bleeder on the right rear caliper of my jeep in the same video. th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html Using vacuum bleeder on the front right caliper of my jeep in the same video. th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps. Chris
That is the grease that the factory calls for to be there so it is OK and must not react with the brake fluid or the rubber. The big thing is not to use any other type of grease or lubricant because it may interact with the brake fluid and it will swell up the seal over time. In the old days I always used brake fluid for lube when rebuilding the calipers, and it was always a lot more effort to assemble them. Now that I have the proper grease I plan on using it from now on. Chris
I usually buy the factory service manual when I get a new car. You can also look for the original paper manual for around a hundred or so on eBay. You can also look for free PDF copies online or you can look on eBay to get a copy on a cd or thumb drive for around fifteen or twenty dollars. I got rid of my old manual when I got rid of the car.
I do have a sandblasting cabinet. I actually prefer the overnight soak in evaporust and a quick scrub for stuff like this. I also wouldn’t want to point the blast nozzle into the bore of the caliper, so a quick once around with the dremel to clean the groove worked fine. Thanks, Chris
Nice video. But only a Carolla therefore a through away and not worthy of nicely painted calipers. Yet this is one pf the greatest of cars and can last you forever. Yet if this were a Maserati, Audi or some other absurd Euro money pit, i guess nice paint would be warranted. You will nor haxe those Euro cars typically very long because they will become totally impractical to keep going. So spend the time and money on the Corolla and powder coat the calipers. This car owes you nothing so give it a gift.
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Dont know how old u are, but I remember soaking piston rubber w/brake fluid TOO! ALSO, I used to lubricate wrong clips TOO, until I saw Eric's too! U did an EXCELLENT JOB!! Better than ANY rebuilt u would BUY! Ur fortunate u have shop equipment. 😁
Nice work. I just did this to our mighty '05 Corolla wagon today and your video was of assistance . Thumbs up ;)
Great job! Impressive tutorial and professional approach.
Sławomir Sitek Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad you liked the video. Chris
This is the most helpful video I could find.
Great job. I like your style of such detail work.
Thanks for the video, I went through 2 boots, and couldn't figure out how to install the dang boot and ring. So much easier
nice work, rebuilding my Honda calipers. Thanks for the info.
Oldie but a goodie! Thanks very much!
First let me say "BRAVO" 👏
The attention to detail is just perfect.
I also heard about that trick with the brake hardware only being greased on the button from Southmainauto but no one else is doing it.
I fallow Erick the car guy and he doesn't do it neither but I will definitely tried now.
You have a new subscriber my friend and please do more rebuild jobs. Believe me. There isn't that many good videos about it out there.
As an ex brake and clutch specialist from New Zealand, I totally endorse Mr Sitek's comments!!
Paul Armstrong Thanks!!! It means a lot getting a positive comment like yours from a professional. Chris
great video, very helpful
Yes thanks 😊 and great work
i am in the process of same thing,,good video
great job. I enjoyed the video very info thanks
yes, I like the bore brush!
Thanks great job.
Should have pushed the piston out most of the way before removing the brake hose. That saves having to scarf it up with plier jaws. And is much safer than using compressed air. In addition, it is good to flush out the dirty fluid in the caliper anyway so getting more fluid into the caliper and drained out is another good thing.
I agree. It's rediculous to skip the easy way to get the piston out which is pump it out with the brake pedal.
Wasn't the piston seized inside which prevented him from pumping the brakes to push piston out?
@@yusuihang You are replying to a 3 year old comment. I don’t remember the details from that long ago.
@yusuihang. Pistons that are stuck keep the piston from retracting which causes the brake pads and rotor to get extremely hot. That amount of stuck is far from enough to keep the piston so stuck that it can't be pumped out with the brake pedal. I have never found, in 53 years, a piston so stuck that it won't pump out.
@@yusuihang Even if the piston was seized, you can apply much more force with the brake fluid than you can with pliers or vise grips. Most brake systems will generate at least 1,000 psi. Most pistons have at least 1 square inch of area so that yields 1,000 lbs of force on the piston. Do you think you can pull with 1,000 lbs of force using pliers or even vise grips?
I have the same corolla and the same problem. Nice videos man.
Thanks! I hope this video was helpful to you. Chris
Shadowdog500 I will have to say these cars are so damn reliable man, like literally the car was not maintenaced for 10 years with my dad and it still drives like a dream.
have a hilux with a stuck calliper today .........will be getting a reman one as i need the pickup every day ............
Good tech!👍
Very useful information how to fix the brk
Nookaji Anusuri Thanks!! I’m glad you liked the video! Chris
Good job mate. How many people would just do the job, and move on??? Thanks for taking the time to record your version of events. I had to do rear pads on an '07 corolla, and without the 'tube, I would have stuffed up the rear caliper pistons. So this morning, I made a slave piston retraction tool, and got the job done. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. BTW, I wish I had a hoist in my shop !!!
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad this video was a help for you. Whenever I do something in my shop that I think would help others, or others would find interesting, I try to find time to make a video. TH-cam has helped a lot of us learn to do new things. Cheers! Chris
Out side of the caliper piston and pins, no need in greasing anything else. It's not gonna stay there long and a year later or less you'd never knew you even put it on there. Basic lithium grease on the pins and break fluid for the caliper piston seal is all you really need... all that specialty greases is a waste of money.
I will be doing this on 2nd generation Sienna using Toyotas oem kit which is excellent, though pricey but well worth it to me. Looking at the rubber boot installation I could not see clearly which side of the boot faces in and which side faces out. Looking at the new one on hand , I can see the brand name ( Aisin) and what looks like the part number inscribed on one of the folds on the boot. It would have been nice if you made mention of this , assuming your kit had similar markings. I guess I will have to look carefully on the one I will be removing so I get it right. Thanks for a great video overall.
I determined the orientation by looking for the groove that accepts the lock ring. That groove has to face out in order to install the lock ring.
@@shadowdog500 Hi, thanks for you reply. i am having trouble seeing a groove on my boot . The outermost "ring" has an upward taper so what I will do is try and remove the ring first upon dissasembly so the boot comes out whole. That way I can compare. I'll update when I am done. Regards
Got done with installing the oem caliper kit. The caliper boot is epdm rubber , mine was still in good shape , even after 18 years. The manufacturer is Aisin and all the markings including the part number and so on , face out when installing. Hope this helps.
How many paid mechanics in 100 would do a job like this with such care and attention to detail?
All of them but only if you are willing to pay an hour and a half labor at $160 or so dollars + parts $40 or replace the caliper with an aftermarket one for half an hour labor at $54 and caliper for $80, so between the two, what would you pay for? I think it's a great idea if you are doing it yourself but if you have to pay someone, it makes no sense
a tip : watch movies on kaldrostream. Been using them for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Christopher Asher Yup, I've been watching on kaldroStream for years myself :D
good job bro
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Thanks, I’m glad you liked the video and hope it was helpful for you. Chris
Nice shop
Thanks! That shop was a dream of mine for decades. Chris
My dream too :-)
20:39 exploding transformer
29:50 I bought that bleeder many years ago. it didnt work right out of the box. glad it works for you though
Typical Harbor Freight! Sometimes you get a good one and sometimes you don’t. Mine has worked great. I don’t use the black end that was supposed to slip over the bleeder because it was too loose for me. The hose end works great over the bleeders by itself. Glad you like the video and the transformer blowing. Thanks, Chris
Thanks man
When installing the dust boot which side goes into the bore? Square outside edge lip up or down?
THIS DUDE IS A G A N G S T A A A ! ! !
Hi scratches left after wire brush in seal grooves will not cause leak?
WFT is it with the front passenger side caliper on Toyotas? They always seem to go bad.
This was my job this weekend on a 09 mazda 6. I used compressed air (around 20psi) to get the pistons out (be careful), also it was bitch to get the dust boot and the piston all seated well. Once i found the trick though it took only minutes.
Can I ask , what was the trick ? I've got this job to do .
@@topfuelteddy I didn't see any 'trick' either. All I was was he put the piston all the way in first, lay the boot on it then pushed the boot in! But here's a trick I found yesterday from 2017. Seeing that's 5 years ago and I haven't seen it anywhere else and the guy claims to have invented it... Well, I'm surprised. It worked for me. There's no securing clip on this one though.
th-cam.com/video/wvOpg7hASLs/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your detailed and SO reasonable right minded video encouraging us all to be green. the 2nd "R" of Reduce > Reuse -> recycle. We too have a similar shop: hoist, lathes, etc. BUT....the TI ME ?? where to find it. Btw, about 8:45 onward, you were making me hungry the dinner plates upper right, and then, after watching carefully - Where's Bubby's "All You Can Eat" Texas BBQ ? ;-)
Lofts Sympatico I keep a stack of waxed paper plates in my shop just for working on small things that may try to roll away or may make a mess. After the job I throw the plate away. Same thing with the brown paper on my workbench. If I want a clean work-surface I just toss a new piece of brown paper on the bench. I don’t think that BBQ sign is associated with an actual Resturant. It says “ Bubba's all you can eat texas bbq, home of the world famous burnt everything”. Glad you liked the video! Chris
I found the workshop manual for my car and for three different models of the car it had three different instructions on what to put on the seal ring. One said silicone grease, one red rubber grease and the other just said brake fluid. I decided it really can't matter too much.
It does matter what you use. You need to use something that won’t swell the rubber seal and is compatible with the brake fluid. I think I mentioned that I did use break fluid in the past, and that it is an option. But the piston is much more difficult to push in with just brake fluid on it. I never heard of using silicone grease on the piston seal, but I do use it on the slide pins for decades.
@@shadowdog500 Oh yeah, I just meant it didn't really matter out of the three.
Can u pls post the link for procedure thanks
nice!!!
Thanks!
Nice lathe
Thanks!
There is problem with a side moving pins where black little rubbers are. Lower pins usually jams !
Thank you for all the detailed information !
Is the Centric kit the same size as Oem ? I recently purchased Raybestos kit and it was smaller diameter than original ones that i had to return them and now going to order Centric kit. My caliper works fine i just want to replace ripped boot to avoid future failure.
They looked the same through the package, but I never opened the Centric one. If you would have asked two weeks ago I could have given you an answer, but I just got rid of the car along with all of the extra parts about two weeks ago so I have no way of doing a detailed comparison of the two.
I thought the factory Toyota kit was well worth the extra money since it came with all of the parts and grease to rebuild the caliper and mount on both sides.The centric kit only came with the sealing rubber, the dust boot rubber, and the metal retainer clip.
I also knew that the factory kit was a quality Toyota product which probably would have gone another 15 years. No telling how many years the centric kit would have lasted. Sorry I can’t help more. Chris
Grease from Toyota
08887-01206 Rubber-G 100G
Seen on Amazon, but got it cheaper, along with the caliper Overhaul Kit online from a Toyota dealership.
That’s good to know. I bought mine at the local Toyota dealer. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Where do i get such manuals please help
To avoid clamping brake hoses you can simply press the brake pedal and prop it against the front of the drivers seat with a stick, this will close off the fluid from the reservoir.
Disconnect the battery or pull the brake light fuse first though to avoid draining the battery
Twig. Thanks for the tip. I am aware of that method and have used my spring loaded brake pedal depressor to do stuff like this in the past, but I still had to bock off the line to keep the fluid from slowly dripping out, so I just block the lines off now. I only pinch lines that I am going to replace, that is why I used the old piece of inter tube and a clamp to seal off the banjo fitting. I recently bought an OTC line plug set that I really like that seals off brake and fuel lines as well as banjo fittings without clamping the line. You can see the kit used in the brake video I did a couple weeks ago. Thanks, Chris
The only fluid that drains out is in the line going to the master cylinder (and it is unlikely that the whole length of that circuit will drain as air needs to get that far) but what is in the master cylinder reservoir stays in it as the return hole in it's bore is blocked by the piston.
Great video. I've done dozens of brake jobs over the years but I still like learning other peoples' tricks and tips and learning something new. What model year Corolla was this?
It was a 2003 Corolla.
You're supposed to slide the dust boot to the bottom of the piston. You then install the dust boot into the lip of the caliper. Then you press the piston in all the way which will then allow the dust boot's other lip to slide into the groove of the piston.
I’m sure your procedure will work, but the procedure I followed on the caliper rebuild is literally step-by-step from the factory service manual.
@@shadowdog500Well, the way I described it was the way it said in the GM field service manual. Probably different manufacturers have their way of doing it. But the GM way, it went in real easy as some I see have to stuff the boot in with tools.
This video was just what I needed. I’m just waiting for my parts to come. I agree with getting all OEM parts from Toyota. I do have one question. If I don’t have a press to press in the boots like you did. Can I just hammer them in with the socket in place and tap with a hammer?
Anyway thanks for the detailed video and Awesome work shop......Very neat and organized. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, you can use a hammer and a socket to put the boots in. Most people do it that way, I just happen to have a press. Thanks!
Shadowdog500 . Good to know and thanks for the quick reply to my question. 👍🏻
Shadowdog500 I hate to bother you. But do you happen to have a link to that pdf file of the caliper rebuild that you used in the video?
Luke Skywalker unfortunately I don’t. I found it online somewhere and printed it. I’m sure you can find it with google. My wife got a new car in the spring and we got rid of the Corolla. When we got rid of the car we got rid of everything that went to it, oil filters, parts, manuals, etc to help reduce the clutter in my shop,
I have a 2011 Corolla. After replacing the dust boot on the caliper with generic rebuild kit parts, I can't get the metal ring to seat. It goes in the groove partially, but I can't get it to fully seat in the groove like you did. So, I got a rebuilt caliper directly from Toyota dealer parts, and the metal ring isn't fully seated on it either. It's in the groove partially like yours first was (and like mine now is), but it's not seated like my original was - or like you did with yours. I pointed it out to the parts people at the dealer and they said it was fine, but I think they are guessing. So, I got a genuine Toyota rebuild kit and will try again. Any tips on getting that metal ring to fully seat? My car has been sitting a week while I struggle with that metal ring.
I hope you got it on! There was no trick to getting on. I don’t know what to say other than keep trying. My Corolla was a series 9 Corolla, your Corolla is a series 10 Corolla. Your car uses a different caliper than mine so there may be a difference.
I've never tried it myself, but I've heard an easy way to remove the piston is while it is still attached to the brake line and free from the rotor, pump the brakes and the fluid will push it out. But I'm nowhere close to an expert!
good way to get air in the line too
@@Hot-1LE How so? Genuine question, I'm not very experienced.
@@Hot-1LE Also, If you're removing the caliper, you'll need to bleed the lines anyways, right?
@@jacobhill70 ya, and some people do it this way. but once the piston pops out, you have to release the pedal and that causes negative suction and pulls air into the system. When you do it the more standard way you use a clamp on the brake line and gravity keeps the air out as well while you rebuild the piston. Once connected its an easy bleed to get the air out of the calipers.
Buttered TV that makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
I use the green synthetic brake caliper grease with the brush built into the cap. I hope it's as good as the pink grease.
Where can I find the document ?
Thanks for the great Video. I've seen other videos saying that brake fluid is poisonous for the skin, do you ever wear rubber globes ?
I'm glad you liked the video. I do wear gloves occasionally if im going to get filthy. i don't wear them for stuff like this because my hands sweat and get like prunes if i wear them all day. We were also taught decades ago that gloves and rings catch on things and you can lose parts of your hand that way. It really bugs me when I see people wearing gloves around anything mechanical like bench grinders and stuff. Last week OutsideScrewball posted a video about his friend Chewey who was in his videos occasionally who got pulled into a lathe because he was wearing gloves. Never heard brake fluid was poison to skin so i just looked it up. its only a skin irritant, you have to drink it to get poisoned.
great video!!! what king of liquid did you use to clean the caliper (on the boquet)
Steve, I cleaned the grease off of them with in my parts washer with PSC-1000 which is a really good parts washer fluid from Tractor Supply. After that I soaked them overnight in evapo-rust from Harbor Freight to get the coating of rust off of them. Thanks!!! Chris
Hi, can you share the papers the manual please
Can u give me the part no. For that red grease???
You grabbed the piston "up here", but it does mean something: rust will start developing right from the scratched surface and in several years the piston will be done.
I did try to pull it using a strip of leather as soft jaws, but it wouldn't move. You can see the the strip of leather that I commonly use as soft jaws on my workbench behind the rag at 3:09. I have pulled really stuck pistons like this in the past with no long term negative affect. I guess time will tell but it has been two and a half years since I rebuilt the caliper with no problems. Chris
Nice video... Like that impact air ratchet... What is it 1/2 or 3/8?
It’s a EARTHQUAKE 3/8 In. Impacting Air Ratchet Wrench from Harbor Freight. It sells for about eighty dollars before the twenty percent coupon.
What is the name of the brush to clean caliper holes?What size should I buy,and which web page,thank you.
It is a Hoppes universal cleaning kit that can be found for about $15 in the sporting goods section at Walmart. (Walmart # 553910614)
They come in handy in the shop. There are multiple size brushes in a good cleaning kit. Not sure what brush I grabbed.
I am in the process of doing this. How worried should I be I have some pitting on the piston?
I don’t know how much pitting you have. A new piston is usually around $15 and a rebuilt caliper can usually be had for under $40. If there is any doubt replace the caliper or the piston.
when you buy the caliper kits with Toyota, do you get it with its instructions ? thanks
The kit did not come with the instructions. The instructions are in the factory service manual.
The piston on my Subaru rear is not going into the caliper. Why not? I am pretty sure they are lined up.
get rid of your shnubary and get toyota . duh .
I wouldn’t use sil glyde on the pins
A mechanic quoted $450 for 1 wheel. The kit cost $11 on eBay + Fluid + delivery = $30
sorry , but do you by chance have a pn# for the toyota grease?
It’s Genuine Toyota Parts - Rubber-G 100G (08887-01206). Any Toyota dealership should have it for about ten bucks a tube.
would love to have a lift :)
1:49. What is the name of that tool? I have tried all vendors in Norway, Ebay and Amazon and cannot find a large flat headed screw driver.
It is a craftsman brand prybar here is a set of three on amazon. Craftsman 3 Piece Curved Pry Bar Set With Strike Cap Handle www.amazon.com/dp/B01M31IT1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.LbeDbHCK6R2C
I’m sure there are other brands of pry bars that work just as well. Chris
What’s the fluid in the bottle to clean the caliper?
The fluid I showed the carb soaking it was Evapo-Rust. It removes rust.
I'm now concerned that my piston took a significant amount of brute force with a hammer to get back into the caliper, whereas yours just slid in with thumb pressure...
what solution did you use for the rust to leave the caliper in the bucket
I used Evaporust. You can get it at a lot of places, but Harbor Freight usually has it at a good price. Chris
@@shadowdog500 thankyou, fren
Everything was awesome except I wanted to see the bleeding part of it
Thanks! I would have loved to have it but for some reason I forgot to hit record.
Here are clips from me using my Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder on my old Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Connecting the bottle to the master cylinder of my jeep th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html
Using the vacuum bleeder on the right rear caliper of my jeep in the same video. th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html
Using vacuum bleeder on the front right caliper of my jeep in the same video. th-cam.com/video/ueARRt51t1M/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps. Chris
Haven’t you just contaminated the brake fluid with greasing the bottom of the piston? Great video though.
That is the grease that the factory calls for to be there so it is OK and must not react with the brake fluid or the rubber. The big thing is not to use any other type of grease or lubricant because it may interact with the brake fluid and it will swell up the seal over time. In the old days I always used brake fluid for lube when rebuilding the calipers, and it was always a lot more effort to assemble them. Now that I have the proper grease I plan on using it from now on. Chris
What is the part number for the grease?
08887-01206 your local toyota dealer should carry it.
What repair manual are you using?
Factory service manual. Section 32 (brakes), page 25 (Overhaul front brakes)
Sir what web. That you can fine a manual repair like you have?
I usually buy the factory service manual when I get a new car. You can also look for the original paper manual for around a hundred or so on eBay.
You can also look for free PDF copies online or you can look on eBay to get a copy on a cd or thumb drive for around fifteen or twenty dollars. I got rid of my old manual when I got rid of the car.
@@shadowdog500 thank you sir
Do you have the part number for the overhaul kit
I believe it is 04479-02040. You should see the part number on the kit at around 10 minutes.
@@shadowdog500 thanks
You have an expensive lathe why not have a sandblasting cabinet, would be much faster cleaning up calipers.
I do have a sandblasting cabinet. I actually prefer the overnight soak in evaporust and a quick scrub for stuff like this. I also wouldn’t want to point the blast nozzle into the bore of the caliper, so a quick once around with the dremel to clean the groove worked fine. Thanks, Chris
Shit. I need to get ones for a Toyota Starlet. Fucken impossibrü.
And I have one of those rubber boots in the glovebox. Someone already went over the things.
Nice video. But only a Carolla therefore a through away and not worthy of nicely painted calipers. Yet this is one pf the greatest of cars and can last you forever. Yet if this were a Maserati, Audi or some other absurd Euro money pit, i guess nice paint would be warranted. You will nor haxe those Euro cars typically very long because they will become totally impractical to keep going. So spend the time and money on the Corolla and powder coat the calipers. This car owes you nothing so give it a gift.
Hot water.
Good info but does this guy put anyone else to sleep? lol.
Some motion sickness with how much he moves with the gopro on
extreme poor volume and long recording.
Too much talkating