Exactly same problem I’m having will try your fix . I had an idea it might’ve been the plug as the gauge went back up when I tapped the face of the cluster. Much appreciated for your video. You just confirmed that what I thought it was is most likely the plug. Again thanks for posting your video 👋
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
You most likely did not fix the actual issue. As you already found out, the issue is indeed related to the connector, but as you already replaced the plug with the female crimp contacts, the issue has to lie in the other side of the connection, the socket. While the pins inside the socket will not really wear, their solder joints on the PCB often crack over time. I think the reason why this occurs especially often with the air pressure gauge is that one of the pins for this air pressure sensor is located in the corner of the connector, where the quality of the solder joints (from the factory) does not seem very good. So if this issue returns, you will have to disassemble the instrument cluster and resolder the pins of the connector (the solder joints are covered in conformal coating though, which makes it a bit more difficult).
Thank you for your comment. It’s been a few months now and I haven’t had the issue yet and hopefully stays that way but thanks for pointing out where the exact issue is and makes the air pressure gauge to drop. If it starts happening again I will follow your instructions and hopefully i can fix it permanently.
After doing a lot of lookups and research online when this issue started for me, this video and comment helped me narrow how to fix this issue. I drive a 2007 Volvo D12. Steps I took to fix mine: 1. Swapped primary and secondary sensor. The issue stayed so I knew it wasn't the sensor. 2. Checked for continuity from the sensor plug to the green (B) connector behind the dashboard/Instrument cluster. It was fine. So I knew it wasn't the wires. 3. Opened the instrument cluster, took everything off to get to the PCB board. Found that one of the sensor wire goes to the pin at the corner of the connector (confirms what @lennart22 posted). I had looked up the wiring diagram online. 4. Took a sharp pointed soldering iron and heated the joint enough for the soldering lead to melt and harden again. I did not add or remove any soldering lead, just a reheat. As an extra measure, I did the same thing to the pin joint of the second wire for the sensor on the PCB. The lines on the PCB are very thin, hence me using a very sharp tip soldering iron so I did not mess up anything else. It has been 3 weeks now and no more issue. I hope this helps someone.
@@07VolvoD12Do you recall which pins are for the air gauge? Top row? Bottom row? Passenger side? Driver side? 1st pin, second pin? If not, where can I find the wiring diagram? I have same problem and the circuit board repair guy was not able to find the problem.
I have the same problem I have to try next week,my gauge plays or stuck frozen but nothing wrong no check lights on I driving like this almost 1 months
Having this problem and switched out sensor and gauge cluster out of my other truck, same only 9 vin numbers apart same thing reads really hight and then drops to zero. I will try this and comment. Lots of people having the same issue with no fix
Dude, you just explained exactly what’s going on with me. So glad you made this video. I hope I could easily resolve it now. Do you have a part number on that?
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
Is it still working? I have the same issue and did almost everything aside from the cluster and connector. Just started a few days ago. Hit the dash and it works for a minute then goes out again.
Followed your instruction. So far has worked. Thanks!
I am glad!
It’s been almost a year now. Ever happened again? Thanks a lot for sharing your experience!
Didn’t have this issue again since then! Please read the other comments from others as well, as it might help you further with the issue.
Good luck
Glad you found the problem bud. Surely it can be so frustrating. Peace out ✌️
Exactly same problem I’m having will try your fix . I had an idea it might’ve been the plug as the gauge went back up when I tapped the face of the cluster. Much appreciated for your video. You just confirmed that what I thought it was is most likely the plug. Again thanks for posting your video 👋
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
You most likely did not fix the actual issue. As you already found out, the issue is indeed related to the connector, but as you already replaced the plug with the female crimp contacts, the issue has to lie in the other side of the connection, the socket. While the pins inside the socket will not really wear, their solder joints on the PCB often crack over time. I think the reason why this occurs especially often with the air pressure gauge is that one of the pins for this air pressure sensor is located in the corner of the connector, where the quality of the solder joints (from the factory) does not seem very good. So if this issue returns, you will have to disassemble the instrument cluster and resolder the pins of the connector (the solder joints are covered in conformal coating though, which makes it a bit more difficult).
Thank you for your comment.
It’s been a few months now and I haven’t had the issue yet and hopefully stays that way but thanks for pointing out where the exact issue is and makes the air pressure gauge to drop. If it starts happening again I will follow your instructions and hopefully i can fix it permanently.
After doing a lot of lookups and research online when this issue started for me, this video and comment helped me narrow how to fix this issue. I drive a 2007 Volvo D12.
Steps I took to fix mine:
1. Swapped primary and secondary sensor. The issue stayed so I knew it wasn't the sensor.
2. Checked for continuity from the sensor plug to the green (B) connector behind the dashboard/Instrument cluster. It was fine. So I knew it wasn't the wires.
3. Opened the instrument cluster, took everything off to get to the PCB board. Found that one of the sensor wire goes to the pin at the corner of the connector (confirms what @lennart22 posted). I had looked up the wiring diagram online.
4. Took a sharp pointed soldering iron and heated the joint enough for the soldering lead to melt and harden again. I did not add or remove any soldering lead, just a reheat. As an extra measure, I did the same thing to the pin joint of the second wire for the sensor on the PCB.
The lines on the PCB are very thin, hence me using a very sharp tip soldering iron so I did not mess up anything else.
It has been 3 weeks now and no more issue. I hope this helps someone.
Thank you for your detailed comment! This will help a lot to a lots of drivers out there. Simple fix and yet dealer will charge thousands $!
@@07VolvoD12Do you recall which pins are for the air gauge? Top row? Bottom row? Passenger side? Driver side? 1st pin, second pin? If not, where can I find the wiring diagram? I have same problem and the circuit board repair guy was not able to find the problem.
I have the same problem I have to try next week,my gauge plays or stuck frozen but nothing wrong no check lights on I driving like this almost 1 months
Hi. Having same issues with my d13 volvo..will definitely try it out..thanks
Good job !! Thanks
Thanks buddy .. it worked !
Nice!
Having this problem and switched out sensor and gauge cluster out of my other truck, same only 9 vin numbers apart same thing reads really hight and then drops to zero. I will try this and comment. Lots of people having the same issue with no fix
Dude, you just explained exactly what’s going on with me. So glad you made this video. I hope I could easily resolve it now. Do you have a part number on that?
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
Thanks, I'll try it. Same issue as you
Thank you it helping me very much
Can you tell me the location of that plug. I have the same problem
You will have to remove the cluster panel and you will see it. There should be three, it's the green one.
Is it still working? I have the same issue and did almost everything aside from the cluster and connector. Just started a few days ago. Hit the dash and it works for a minute then goes out again.
I have a 18 Volvo vnl 780. My cluster speed gauge is not working today. Drives fine just don’t show the speed 😂