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Liri Ves
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2021
วีดีโอ
Air pressure gauge issue - Volvo D13
มุมมอง 4.9Kปีที่แล้ว
Volvo D13, check engine light, SPN 411 FMI 7, SPN 4752 FMI 7
มุมมอง 46K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Loss of power, hesitant on acceleration and check engine light on. Two codes: SPN 411 FMI 7 SPN 4752 FMI 7 For the repair all there was needed is brake cleaner and a paper clip! Fixed and no more issues after I cleaned those two sensors
Followed your instruction. So far has worked. Thanks!
I am glad!
I have the same problem I have to try next week,my gauge plays or stuck frozen but nothing wrong no check lights on I driving like this almost 1 months
Good job !! Thanks
Thank you it helping me very much
Thanks buddy .. it worked !
Nice!
Than you for information it was helpful.
Having this problem and switched out sensor and gauge cluster out of my other truck, same only 9 vin numbers apart same thing reads really hight and then drops to zero. I will try this and comment. Lots of people having the same issue with no fix
Dude, you just explained exactly what’s going on with me. So glad you made this video. I hope I could easily resolve it now. Do you have a part number on that?
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
I have a 18 Volvo vnl 780. My cluster speed gauge is not working today. Drives fine just don’t show the speed 😂
Exactly same problem I’m having will try your fix . I had an idea it might’ve been the plug as the gauge went back up when I tapped the face of the cluster. Much appreciated for your video. You just confirmed that what I thought it was is most likely the plug. Again thanks for posting your video 👋
I just fixed mine by using the zip tie anchor above the plug. Ran a zip tie through the anchor around the plug (not the wires) lifted the plug and tightened the zip tie. I changed the sensor then sent my dash to a local circuit repair guy who found no problem with the circuits. So it is the pin on the bottom left (driver side) of the plug in the corner.
It’s been almost a year now. Ever happened again? Thanks a lot for sharing your experience!
Didn’t have this issue again since then! Please read the other comments from others as well, as it might help you further with the issue. Good luck
Thanks for the video. Hopefully this helps me
Glad it helped! Best of luck
Hi. Having same issues with my d13 volvo..will definitely try it out..thanks
Thanks, I'll try it. Same issue as you
Can you tell me the location of that plug. I have the same problem
You will have to remove the cluster panel and you will see it. There should be three, it's the green one.
Is it still working? I have the same issue and did almost everything aside from the cluster and connector. Just started a few days ago. Hit the dash and it works for a minute then goes out again.
You most likely did not fix the actual issue. As you already found out, the issue is indeed related to the connector, but as you already replaced the plug with the female crimp contacts, the issue has to lie in the other side of the connection, the socket. While the pins inside the socket will not really wear, their solder joints on the PCB often crack over time. I think the reason why this occurs especially often with the air pressure gauge is that one of the pins for this air pressure sensor is located in the corner of the connector, where the quality of the solder joints (from the factory) does not seem very good. So if this issue returns, you will have to disassemble the instrument cluster and resolder the pins of the connector (the solder joints are covered in conformal coating though, which makes it a bit more difficult).
Thank you for your comment. It’s been a few months now and I haven’t had the issue yet and hopefully stays that way but thanks for pointing out where the exact issue is and makes the air pressure gauge to drop. If it starts happening again I will follow your instructions and hopefully i can fix it permanently.
After doing a lot of lookups and research online when this issue started for me, this video and comment helped me narrow how to fix this issue. I drive a 2007 Volvo D12. Steps I took to fix mine: 1. Swapped primary and secondary sensor. The issue stayed so I knew it wasn't the sensor. 2. Checked for continuity from the sensor plug to the green (B) connector behind the dashboard/Instrument cluster. It was fine. So I knew it wasn't the wires. 3. Opened the instrument cluster, took everything off to get to the PCB board. Found that one of the sensor wire goes to the pin at the corner of the connector (confirms what @lennart22 posted). I had looked up the wiring diagram online. 4. Took a sharp pointed soldering iron and heated the joint enough for the soldering lead to melt and harden again. I did not add or remove any soldering lead, just a reheat. As an extra measure, I did the same thing to the pin joint of the second wire for the sensor on the PCB. The lines on the PCB are very thin, hence me using a very sharp tip soldering iron so I did not mess up anything else. It has been 3 weeks now and no more issue. I hope this helps someone.
Thank you for your detailed comment! This will help a lot to a lots of drivers out there. Simple fix and yet dealer will charge thousands $!
@@07VolvoD12Do you recall which pins are for the air gauge? Top row? Bottom row? Passenger side? Driver side? 1st pin, second pin? If not, where can I find the wiring diagram? I have same problem and the circuit board repair guy was not able to find the problem.
Glad you found the problem bud. Surely it can be so frustrating. Peace out ✌️
Thank you…!
Brother, I got the same issues with these codes. I got spn 411 and 611 came up yesterday
I think you solved my problem thanks.
What are the sensors called or I would like to service it ?
Thanks Liri 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
I’m so glad I run into your video 😅 definitely help me with my headache and wallet. Thank you.
You should not use brakleen to clean EGR tubing, the residue left behind from brakleen will cause soot to accumulate faster leading to repeat failures, carb cleaner is what most OEMs recommended.
I have seen a same comment on some other videos but not sure if its from you or someone els and its actually the opposite of that! The Carb cleaner and Brake cleaner have same exact ingredients except the brake cleaner has methanol which helps the liquid to evaporate fast and leave no residue behind. Carb cleaner does leave a bit of an oily residue behind. The only time i don't use brake cleaner is when the part has rubber or plastic because the methanol intends to swell those parts and they deteriorate after a while other than that always brake cleaner and never had any problems.
Thank you very much for this video
Thank you same problem.
Having the same issue.... thank you
Good video, very Informative
Hello I have a volvo d 13 2013 I have 2 codes spn 637 fmi 3 and spn 4752 fmi the problem in my truck is hard to start the engine eny of this codes influence to the engine start.
If I were you in your situation I would start by replacing the crankshaft position sensor and delta pressure sensor as it’s easy to do and not very expensive and hopefully that fixes the problem! After that I would take it to the mechanic as it might be the injectors. Good luck man
Good video
Hey buddy, did you have frequent regents also?!
Yes I did as the sensor wasn’t recording the right amount of flow which caused the regen not being completed. I hope this helps, since I posted this video I didn’t have this issue again.
Thank so much for doing this. I’m having the same issue and This video really helps 👍👍👏👏
Hey man my truck is a 2012. It was running fine with check engine on. I went on vacation for a week and when I try to start it the lights would come on, but it won’t crank at all. The only message i get it Maintenance required vehicle Ecu. And j1939 Communication error with Engine ECU. Please help me out with this if you have any idea what could it be.
I am sorry to hear that. I never have experienced your issue in the past and I don’t want to give you any miss information! I would recommend you researching your code and see what info you can find. If I were you I would contact a shop and have them check it out if you can’t find any info about the code you getting. I am sorry I couldn’t be helpful and best of luck to you. Keep us updated please
@@lirives7660 thank you very much
Hey i have a 2012 vnl. Its not doing anything when i try to crank it. Its giving me this message along with check engine light. J1939 communication error with engine ECU. Any idea what could it be?
Possibly turn off the battery switch then back on. Typically that error message is a ground issue. Clean all the battery terminals, clean the connecting bars, check the buss fuse on the large battery cable, check the fusible link large negative cable that attaches to the frame, check the ground connections at the pass thru on the firewall. You'll find some upper right drivers side and more below that area to the left. Check the connections at the starter. Clean them all with sandpaper and put it all back together and hopefully you should be good to go.
Hi there I was having the same problem and by replacing with the new ignition switch the problem is gone. Easy and simple fix. ✌️✌️
👍👍👍😀
Good job!!
Nice video
Thank you
Having same problem right now
Hopefully you get the issue solved. I didn’t have this problem again since I posted this video and hopefully it stays that way! Good luck
Thanks