Quick clarification: In this video, I mentioned that HSS (High-Speed Steel) is out of the equation, which isn’t entirely accurate. HSS is still widely used, especially in drills and other tools, and performs well in many applications. However, carbide is a "newer" technology designed to handle higher speeds and tougher materials, like steel, more efficiently. If I had to choose between the two for cutting steel, carbide would be my pick for its speed and durability. That said, now that I’m a bit older and wiser (haha), I plan to make an updated video in the future to share what I’ve learned and provide even better insights. Stay tuned, and thanks for your understanding!
Before matriculating university, I spent over 20 years in tool rooms mold rooms and tool and die Never saw a carbide end mill. HSS is perfectly fine for all alloys of steel just not pre-hardened. If there is a down side to it, it is that you have to go slower and pay more attention to coolant. In fact on mills such as the one you have there Carbide is probably the wrong choice almost all the time because your bearings are old and small and worn and not rigid enough to provide the ridigity carbide needs. So you are probably getting half the expected life of a carbide end mill.
I agree with you wholeheartedly. HSS has been around forever and precedes carbide by probably 50 years. Carbide is great on tool steel or stainless steel parts but for mild low carbon steel HSS is more than adequate especially if you use a good coolant system since heat is what kills any mill tool.
If your machine isn't clapped out, carbide can be more economical than hss in the long run. You also have the option of not using coolant at all with carbide. I actually climb with carbide on my Bridgeport for finish cuts. It can be done.
@@professorjim6874 "rigibility" I gotta keep that one. At first I laughed at him, but it's grown on me. My 47 Horse Tractor has great rigibility. try to move that boulder, the rigibility will amaze you. The pastor has a character of momentous rigibility.
Also to add, when slot cutting, use a 2, 3, or 5 flute. Never a 4 flute, unless you can accept it to cut oversized. But then the deeper the slot, other issues can come up. But to use an under size cutter, ruff and finish to size if is critical.
@ I hope you and your family have a great holiday season as well bud. I will be watching ALL of your videos because I’m really impressed by the way you teach. I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge.
I’ve been using high-speed steel and mills on Steel for 40 years. You just need to get your speed and depth of cut correct. A little cutting oil won’t hurt. Of the three carbide end Mills, I think you chose the wrong one. I would’ve gone with the larger one. The larger end mill would have been more rigid and all-around more useful if you were only going to buy one.
There is a time and place for climb milling, it definitely serves a purpose, and HSS can be used to cut steel, it just doesn’t stay as sharp as long...
I actually climb cut on anything, from the clapped out minimill at work and a equally clapped out 40 taper knee mill, to the brand spanking new 50 taper big boy box way horizontal universal manual mill (with a universal huron head attachment, a +-45° table, a universal angle rotary/dividing/differential indexing/helical milling head-tailstock attachment along the dreams of finding the elusive vertical slotting head attachment...universal af in general) and the VMC of course. On manual machines I can do some pretty fine work on steel with quality HSS-E tools, but when it comes to VMC work (even if it's just a one off prototype/jig/fixture/mold/die/stamp) I cringe whenever I as much as touch an HSS tool that isn't a tap or a countersink (not a chamfering tool though) on the bench
@@Sketch1994 Im pretty new to machining, maybe 6 months or so running a VF2 doing job shop work and i just noticed that ive never had problems neccasarily climb cutting when cleaning up stock, on ABS it seems to make a big difference or else it will be very hairy, also i find it confusing how its called conventional milling vs just calling it climb cutting vs, well not climb cutting?
Thanks for making these videos, I am sort of stuck at a job where we do make some custom parts and the lead machine shop guy quit and left me to figure it out.
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 your explanation of what you were doing and the difference between the the different cutting techniques I now know what was happening as my cuts weren't very good. I have subscribed and look forward to watching your channel again thank you very much, John
If you really want to learn, and get some extremely high quality information, tips and techniques, I suggest searching for and checking out the channel of Joe Pieczynski ...your welcome.
if you have coolant on directly on a HSS endmill and lower the speed a little bit and take smaller cuts you can cut cut steel no problem (not hardened steel tho) and carbide is always better but cost more
On CNC machines, I conventional mill for roughing and climb mill for a nice smooth finish. You can climb mill on a CNC because of the zero backlash ball screws these machines have.
if you have coolant on directly on a HSS endmill and lower the speed a little bit and take smaller cuts you can cut cut steel no problem (not hardened steel tho)
Yeah, we use HSS mills almost exclusively to cut aluminum, Hot rolled and cold rolled steel, etc without many issues. Then again my company provides unlimited end mills, so if we bust one, we have access to more.
I wouldn't know any better about use cases of HSS since I'm fairly new to machining (which is why I'm here) but "ridgeability" is what sealed the deal for me. Can't take someone seriously when they can't even say a simple word like rigidity.
@@madaxe79 HSS will cut steel fine. Obviously it will dull faster than with aluminum but I've milled 4140 with HSS just fine and the cutter wasn't (noticeably) duller
I’d like to correct you. Not all but many older machines “if” the gibs and ways are in good condition and you have a good table and you have sufficient HP, you can climb mill which I personally did myself for over 30 years as an application specialist for a major carbide end mill company. (Which is better and preferred ) on most all carbide end mills. Conventional cutting will prematurely wear your end mill out because of the rubbing from a zero chip thickness to a very heavy chip throwing all the heat on the tool and dulling the tool quickly. Climb milling puts all the heat into the chip so less heat is at the edge of the tool and less wear and tear on your tools. The part will be barely warm to the touch. The proper SFPM-surface feet per minute and CPT-chip load per tooth is required for a given material. This will help the performance of the tool in a given material.
interesting, I have been told by some people to "always climb mill" even on a manual machine, but my old mentor said conventional milling is the way you do it. I always have better results like that anyway!
If the machine is ball screw clim cutting is the way to go and all cnc machines are ball screw. Some manual machines are just screw and nuts and it has lots of backlash, so it’s better to use conventional.
Depends on the machine, with old machines which has a lot of slop in each axis, conventional, because it won't pull the part on the end mill If the machine isn't a half dead one, and can do movements without slop, then climb Climb cut has an advantage because the edges on the tool won't rub on the piece, increasing tool life, and if I'm right it needs less power from the spindle as well, but it needs a rigid machine, otherwise the tool will destroy itself
I just retired from 40 years in the shop. Imho there are not any firm rules as there are a bunch of variables to consider. As one poster mentioned yes, climb cutting can be difficult and even disastrous on a machine with a large amount of backlash. Climb cut will often give the better surface finish. One thing I have done on a loose machine is to remove bulk material cutting conventional and if a climb cut is desired tighten the table lock slightly on the axis you are cutting on to help the cutter not grab the work. Its worth it to take some time and adjust as much backlash as you can out of your machine. In machining experience is golden so get in there and do it. Be prepared to pop a few cutters but that is how it goes.
You say "steel" like I say "Stihl" lol The reason I find that humorous is I only just recently learned I've been pronouncing Stihl wrong my whole life.. 😂😅
I have to disagree on the point of choosing the .5 over the .75 because of price. If you can't afford it don't buy one, but if you can afford a .75 carbide FEM and it makes sense in your application, use it. With proper use it will last a long time and you will be able to hog through much more material than the .5 FEM. While it is much more expensive, if you're using proper feed rates then it should be able to make you much more money than you spent in the time saved cutting your material while lasting a long time.
Thanks for the video. Is there a reference, or cheat sheet to show spindle speeds and feed rates for various types of steel/aluminum and various types of mills? I’m milling 17-4 stainless with a carbide 5 flute end mill. Also, how do you know how deep of a cut you can take? Thanks again.
What is the difference of HSE and HSS end mills? I bought 2 HSE 2-flute end mills and it can not flatten a pre-drilled hole and its sharp points will wear out as soon as it touches the work piece; also its cheaper for only $18.40. Then we bought HSS Co. no 8; its points do not dull fast unless you made a mistake while setting it. I just wanna know the difference of the 2. Thank you!
That hss roughing endmill would've taken all your extra material in one pass. You just have to keep the cutter cool with some kind of cutting fluid. Those teeth on roughing endmills (aka turbo mills) greatly reduce the amount of power needed to take the same cut with a regular endmill. Also it's Rigidity not rigibility. We also use conventional milling on manual machines because of feed screw backlash not lack of rigidity. If anything, most of the manual machines I have used are MORE rigid than a lot of CNCs
how do you actually do a perfect feed rate on a manual mill once you have worked out the feed rate for your tool? got my RPM set for my two tooth carbide end mill with 260mm per min travel.. but how do i actually put that into practice? new to machining here )
Really need more info but in short, if hand cranking, then it really comes down to feel with experience. If you have / are using a power feed, then you can get really close with a stopwatch / timer and adjust the power feed speed till you get what you want, then make your cut(s)... Just take your desired feed, then divide it by 6 and mark off the distance that you get (rounding to nearest .5 (or even whole number) if you get a decimal will get you close enough 99% of the time) and then adjust the power feed until your mill travers's that distance in 10 seconds. Unless your using less than 3mm (1/8") endmills, I wouldn't worry about the feed error from rounding, or just always round down so to reduce chip load rather than rounding up and increasing chip load. For example, lets say that you needed a feed of 300mm/min, just divide that by 6 thus getting 50, so mark of a 50mm distance and adjust the feed until you cover that 50mm distance in exactly (or as close to) 10 seconds time. If you have a DRO, then its even easier since you can start the feed and the stopwatch at the same time and kick the feed off when you hit 10sec, and see how much the DRO said you moved, then adjust the speed unitl the DRO is as close to the target number as you can get (i.e., 50mm in this example). *EDIT:* Rereading an older post because of a "Like" popping up and I realized I had an error in my time vs. distance math.. Was thinking of the 10 second interval and accidentally said to divide by 10 which it really should be 6 to arrive at the distance per 10 seconds.
Video is good, narration fine, but for the next may I suggest some fact checking? Some of what you said is in fact incorrect which is rather annoying for those of us who know.
If you don't say what is wrong you are not helping, you are just trying to look smart. If there is a problem in a educational video, you should say what is wrong.
@@marianogarabato1111I’m still new to machining but the depth of cut seems like too much and climb cutting is very common for general, small, nicely finished parts
The answer to your question is an easy one: the cheapest. Having taught machining for 25 years and just retired. I can tell you that if you give them the really good one that sets your back 40 $50 in your budget, you will have wasted your money, let them burn up and run backwards and crash the cheap cutters firstand don’t let them think it’s OK
That's a great point! I agree, most people learn by doing, if not all people. I like to watch a few videos first or educate in some form or fashion but in this trade you really LEARN by DOING. No harm in youtube university now and again haha, thanks for the input!
"RIGIBILITY". Can't find it in any dictionary online. Perhaps rigidity would be a better choice............but all things being considered I don't believe I will be subscribing to listen to this drivel. No donut for you........
Using this type of machine you are prone to side mill using an end mill. They do not call them END mill for nothing. You should plunge cut an end mill and just light finish side climb mill. That way you only have to sharpen the bottom . End mill last much longer and less time grinding just the bottom.
you need to know who is watching. hss was made for steel, even for stainless. you cannot order people to throw it away and choose the 3x-5x more expensive option just because it is not used in the industry.
not TRUE,, in regards to the "climb cut" ..the climb cut works well for holding size and finish ..for instance..cutting a keyway ...use a SMALLER THAN REQUIRED dia. end mill to rough the keyway.. then remove the remainder of the width .by removing the SAME AMOUNT of material from EACH SIDE of the slot ..
Id say its probably time to go ahead and take a refresher course so you can get some of yer facts straight, bud. Maybe your local community college might be a good place for something like that? 🤔 P.S. ...was that Rigi-BILITY?? Could you please explain to me the definition of Rigibility? I do love learning new words, and I'd like to add it to my vocabulary, just want to be certain I've got the correct definition, ya know? So that I'm not using it out of context... Hafta admit it does have a certain ring to it. Rigibility. Hehehehe. 😆😳
Yeah mistakes were made when I said that. I was young back then (now I get back pain when I sneeze too hard haha) ! A revamped video will be made in the near future. Thanks again for watching, and tell your boss to get you some carbide too haha
Climb cuttings on a lead screw machine can problematic. A CNC mill has a ball screw, so it will not walk the cutter across the cut like a typical manual mill like a Bridgeport with a standard lead screw. Many reasons why to climb cut, and only a few reasons to conventional cut . Climb cut 99% to 100% of the time if possible on a CNC. Conventional cutting on a BP, because you really have no choice.(Lead screw, no ball screw) Just one example: Conventional cutting pulls the cutter into the work, (cutting more than you want) and pulls the parts out of a vice. Climb cutting pushes the cutter away, and the part down into the vice. Climb cut leaves a better finish and longer tool life Hard materials sometimes need to be conventional cut. And so on,,,,,,
Quick clarification: In this video, I mentioned that HSS (High-Speed Steel) is out of the equation, which isn’t entirely accurate. HSS is still widely used, especially in drills and other tools, and performs well in many applications. However, carbide is a "newer" technology designed to handle higher speeds and tougher materials, like steel, more efficiently. If I had to choose between the two for cutting steel, carbide would be my pick for its speed and durability.
That said, now that I’m a bit older and wiser (haha), I plan to make an updated video in the future to share what I’ve learned and provide even better insights. Stay tuned, and thanks for your understanding!
Before matriculating university, I spent over 20 years in tool rooms mold rooms and tool and die Never saw a carbide end mill. HSS is perfectly fine for all alloys of steel just not pre-hardened. If there is a down side to it, it is that you have to go slower and pay more attention to coolant. In fact on mills such as the one you have there Carbide is probably the wrong choice almost all the time because your bearings are old and small and worn and not rigid enough to provide the ridigity carbide needs. So you are probably getting half the expected life of a carbide end mill.
And it's a universal mill with literally 7 different linear and rotary manual axes, so just doesn't have the... "rigibility" to use only carbide.
I agree with you wholeheartedly. HSS has been around forever and precedes carbide by probably 50 years. Carbide is great on tool steel or stainless steel parts but for mild low carbon steel HSS is more than adequate especially if you use a good coolant system since heat is what kills any mill tool.
Facts.
If your machine isn't clapped out, carbide can be more economical than hss in the long run. You also have the option of not using coolant at all with carbide. I actually climb with carbide on my Bridgeport for finish cuts. It can be done.
@@professorjim6874 "rigibility" I gotta keep that one. At first I laughed at him, but it's grown on me. My 47 Horse Tractor has great rigibility. try to move that boulder, the rigibility will amaze you. The pastor has a character of momentous rigibility.
The explanation of climb cutting vs. conventional cutting was very good. The explanation of how to do the finish cuts was incomprehensible.
Ong. I don't even know what a depth mike is lmao
I’m new at this milling work, and this is very much knowledgeable for me to learn, thank you for this informative experience..
This is the first time climb cutting and conventional has made sense to me. Thank you 🙏
Also to add, when slot cutting, use a 2, 3, or 5 flute.
Never a 4 flute, unless you can accept it to cut oversized.
But then the deeper the slot, other issues can come up.
But to use an under size cutter, ruff and finish to size if is critical.
Awesome video !! Thank you for sharing. Finally someone that actually teaches a beginner trying to learn.
@@haroldmoore3544 thanks! I made this a while ago so hopefully my future videos will expand and clarify even more. Have a great holiday!
@ I hope you and your family have a great holiday season as well bud. I will be watching ALL of your videos because I’m really impressed by the way you teach. I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge.
I climb cut the final .010 or so. Chip load is small, finish is better. But never for roughing!
I’ve been using high-speed steel and mills on Steel for 40 years. You just need to get your speed and depth of cut correct. A little cutting oil won’t hurt. Of the three carbide end Mills, I think you chose the wrong one. I would’ve gone with the larger one. The larger end mill would have been more rigid and all-around more useful if you were only going to buy one.
55 Years for me using HSS.
There is a time and place for climb milling, it definitely serves a purpose, and HSS can be used to cut steel, it just doesn’t stay as sharp as long...
I actually climb cut on anything, from the clapped out minimill at work and a equally clapped out 40 taper knee mill, to the brand spanking new 50 taper big boy box way horizontal universal manual mill (with a universal huron head attachment, a +-45° table, a universal angle rotary/dividing/differential indexing/helical milling head-tailstock attachment along the dreams of finding the elusive vertical slotting head attachment...universal af in general) and the VMC of course. On manual machines I can do some pretty fine work on steel with quality HSS-E tools, but when it comes to VMC work (even if it's just a one off prototype/jig/fixture/mold/die/stamp) I cringe whenever I as much as touch an HSS tool that isn't a tap or a countersink (not a chamfering tool though) on the bench
@@Sketch1994 Im pretty new to machining, maybe 6 months or so running a VF2 doing job shop work and i just noticed that ive never had problems neccasarily climb cutting when cleaning up stock, on ABS it seems to make a big difference or else it will be very hairy, also i find it confusing how its called conventional milling vs just calling it climb cutting vs, well not climb cutting?
@@carsonp.7009 Technically it's upmilling and downmilling
@@Sketch1994 the more you know
Thanks for making these videos, I am sort of stuck at a job where we do make some custom parts and the lead machine shop guy quit and left me to figure it out.
Same position, dude, hopefully youre makin it!
G'day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 your explanation of what you were doing and the difference between the the different cutting techniques I now know what was happening as my cuts weren't very good. I have subscribed and look forward to watching your channel again thank you very much, John
If you really want to learn, and get some extremely high quality information, tips and techniques, I suggest searching for and checking out the channel of
Joe Pieczynski
...your welcome.
if you have coolant on directly on a HSS endmill and lower the speed a little bit and take smaller cuts you can cut cut steel no problem (not hardened steel tho) and carbide is always better but cost more
HSS is perfectly fine to use in mild steel.
Yes I dunno where this guy got this.
I have had bad luck with HSS in steel
Some shops will fire you for using carbide on unhardened steel lol.
Your description of climb cutting was backwards
Very descriptive and clear explanation.
Thank You!
Thank you from a newbie!
Rigibility... gonna have to start using that
Dude this video is perfect.
Very Good!
Thank You!
Glad I could help!
Strange opinion on hss tools
Fkng outstanding! Thank you so much for these tutorials!🙏👍👍👍👍👍
On CNC machines, I conventional mill for roughing and climb mill for a nice smooth finish. You can climb mill on a CNC because of the zero backlash ball screws these machines have.
Interesting and informative. Thanks.
Very informative, thank you !
Very good!
simple & clear.
Imagine if we could cut steel with hss. But I guess that is simply not possible
Don't know if you're being sarcastic or not but you definitely can cut mild steel with hss end mills. Just run slower and use oil.
@@AK99581 He is
if you have coolant on directly on a HSS endmill and lower the speed a little bit and take smaller cuts you can cut cut steel no problem (not hardened steel tho)
@@AK99581 most certainly sarcastic
"rigibility" haha Got it!
HAHAHAHAHAHA Rigibility
He said it more than once
@@professorjim6874 Say it with me "RIGIBILITY"
He is a dipshit
@@Raul28153 hi we are a manufacturer of cutting tools is ther any requirement kindly contact me
Thanks for your Knowledge , very helpful for a newbe.
Great job on the video
HSS mills are almost free compared to carbide tools, and can be used for most materials if you calculate the cutting data..
Yeah, we use HSS mills almost exclusively to cut aluminum, Hot rolled and cold rolled steel, etc without many issues. Then again my company provides unlimited end mills, so if we bust one, we have access to more.
How much do you value your time?
You lost me at high speed steel not being able to cut steel.
I think it was more of a: HSS will cut steel, but it's not ideal as it will dull quickly.
And "ridgeabuility"
@@sparksmobilerepair4025 rigidity
I wouldn't know any better about use cases of HSS since I'm fairly new to machining (which is why I'm here) but "ridgeability" is what sealed the deal for me. Can't take someone seriously when they can't even say a simple word like rigidity.
@@madaxe79 HSS will cut steel fine. Obviously it will dull faster than with aluminum but I've milled 4140 with HSS just fine and the cutter wasn't (noticeably) duller
Wow!! Been using high speed steel to machine steel like forever. Who ever told you that? How long have you been doing machine work, jeez dude.
I’d like to correct you. Not all but many older machines “if” the gibs and ways are in good condition and you have a good table and you have sufficient HP, you can climb mill which I personally did myself for over 30 years as an application specialist for a major carbide end mill company. (Which is better and preferred ) on most all carbide end mills. Conventional cutting will prematurely wear your end mill out because of the rubbing from a zero chip thickness to a very heavy chip throwing all the heat on the tool and dulling the tool quickly. Climb milling puts all the heat into the chip so less heat is at the edge of the tool and less wear and tear on your tools. The part will be barely warm to the touch. The proper SFPM-surface feet per minute and CPT-chip load per tooth is required for a given material. This will help the performance of the tool in a given material.
interesting, I have been told by some people to "always climb mill" even on a manual machine, but my old mentor said conventional milling is the way you do it. I always have better results like that anyway!
If the machine is ball screw clim cutting is the way to go and all cnc machines are ball screw. Some manual machines are just screw and nuts and it has lots of backlash, so it’s better to use conventional.
Depends on the machine, with old machines which has a lot of slop in each axis, conventional, because it won't pull the part on the end mill
If the machine isn't a half dead one, and can do movements without slop, then climb
Climb cut has an advantage because the edges on the tool won't rub on the piece, increasing tool life, and if I'm right it needs less power from the spindle as well, but it needs a rigid machine, otherwise the tool will destroy itself
I just retired from 40 years in the shop. Imho there are not any firm rules as there are a bunch of variables to consider. As one poster mentioned yes, climb cutting can be difficult and even disastrous on a machine with a large amount of backlash. Climb cut will often give the better surface finish. One thing I have done on a loose machine is to remove bulk material cutting conventional and if a climb cut is desired tighten the table lock slightly on the axis you are cutting on to help the cutter not grab the work. Its worth it to take some time and adjust as much backlash as you can out of your machine. In machining experience is golden so get in there and do it. Be prepared to pop a few cutters but that is how it goes.
Conventional mill on a manual if you’re taking any type of meaningful cut. Climb cut at your peril!
You say "steel" like I say "Stihl" lol
The reason I find that humorous is I only just recently learned I've been pronouncing Stihl wrong my whole life.. 😂😅
I have to disagree on the point of choosing the .5 over the .75 because of price. If you can't afford it don't buy one, but if you can afford a .75 carbide FEM and it makes sense in your application, use it. With proper use it will last a long time and you will be able to hog through much more material than the .5 FEM. While it is much more expensive, if you're using proper feed rates then it should be able to make you much more money than you spent in the time saved cutting your material while lasting a long time.
The smaller cutter you can spin a bit faster and keeping chip load the same if you can will give a little more feed ability
Why not use hss on steel? Mine never dull, but i also run way lower speeds, like 240 or 100 rpm. I get really good finishes also.
Thank you so much it makes sense
High speed steel is Ok to use on mild steel. It's widely used in industry 😊
@@paulturner7054 agreed!
Thanks for the video. Is there a reference, or cheat sheet to show spindle speeds and feed rates for various types of steel/aluminum and various types of mills? I’m milling 17-4 stainless with a carbide 5 flute end mill. Also, how do you know how deep of a cut you can take? Thanks again.
zeus book. Little pocket book full of machining information
Which Brand End mill do you use?
Nice presentation
What brand and model is the endmill you are using in this vid?
wrong speed or feed if chip colour change hot. make bit sharp to dull fast.
What is the difference of HSE and HSS end mills? I bought 2 HSE 2-flute end mills and it can not flatten a pre-drilled hole and its sharp points will wear out as soon as it touches the work piece; also its cheaper for only $18.40. Then we bought HSS Co. no 8; its points do not dull fast unless you made a mistake while setting it. I just wanna know the difference of the 2. Thank you!
That hss roughing endmill would've taken all your extra material in one pass. You just have to keep the cutter cool with some kind of cutting fluid. Those teeth on roughing endmills (aka turbo mills) greatly reduce the amount of power needed to take the same cut with a regular endmill. Also it's Rigidity not rigibility. We also use conventional milling on manual machines because of feed screw backlash not lack of rigidity. If anything, most of the manual machines I have used are MORE rigid than a lot of CNCs
As a beginner I came here because I was experiencing issues climb cutting just as you described
Awesome! We will be re making and enhancing videos covering more. Hope our channel helped you out!
Rigidity!!!!!! No such word as rigability 😂😂
I love using HSS on cold rolled steel.
HSS is no good for steel!! Bullshit mate!! Every standard drill bit is made from HSS so how are they able to drill through it?..
you can climb cut with a conventional machine (not a small mill but the bigger ones no problem)
For mild steel you should us HSS
how do you actually do a perfect feed rate on a manual mill once you have worked out the feed rate for your tool? got my RPM set for my two tooth carbide end mill with 260mm per min travel.. but how do i actually put that into practice? new to machining here )
Really need more info but in short, if hand cranking, then it really comes down to feel with experience. If you have / are using a power feed, then you can get really close with a stopwatch / timer and adjust the power feed speed till you get what you want, then make your cut(s)... Just take your desired feed, then divide it by 6 and mark off the distance that you get (rounding to nearest .5 (or even whole number) if you get a decimal will get you close enough 99% of the time) and then adjust the power feed until your mill travers's that distance in 10 seconds. Unless your using less than 3mm (1/8") endmills, I wouldn't worry about the feed error from rounding, or just always round down so to reduce chip load rather than rounding up and increasing chip load.
For example, lets say that you needed a feed of 300mm/min, just divide that by 6 thus getting 50, so mark of a 50mm distance and adjust the feed until you cover that 50mm distance in exactly (or as close to) 10 seconds time. If you have a DRO, then its even easier since you can start the feed and the stopwatch at the same time and kick the feed off when you hit 10sec, and see how much the DRO said you moved, then adjust the speed unitl the DRO is as close to the target number as you can get (i.e., 50mm in this example).
*EDIT:* Rereading an older post because of a "Like" popping up and I realized I had an error in my time vs. distance math.. Was thinking of the 10 second interval and accidentally said to divide by 10 which it really should be 6 to arrive at the distance per 10 seconds.
"rig-ability", I'm going to start saying that now instead of rigidity.
A bit like "concentral"
Thank you very much
THANK YOU !
next time i have some high speed still ill get me some carbide to cut that still
Carbide...is the best option for any ..cuz involves HSM...different cuttings conditions😅..except Titanium
Video is good, narration fine, but for the next may I suggest some fact checking? Some of what you said is in fact incorrect which is rather annoying for those of us who know.
You are correct.. he hasn’t had enough “playing time in the field” to know what he’s talking about..
If you don't say what is wrong you are not helping, you are just trying to look smart. If there is a problem in a educational video, you should say what is wrong.
@@marianogarabato1111I’m still new to machining but the depth of cut seems like too much and climb cutting is very common for general, small, nicely finished parts
Right im an amateur but i know hss is ok for mild steel
Thank You
Oh... okay.. you Are a student..no worries.
Climbing or conventional?
The answer to your question is an easy one: the cheapest. Having taught machining for 25 years and just retired. I can tell you that if you give them the really good one that sets your back 40 $50 in your budget, you will have wasted your money, let them burn up and run backwards and crash the cheap cutters firstand don’t let them think it’s OK
That's a great point! I agree, most people learn by doing, if not all people. I like to watch a few videos first or educate in some form or fashion but in this trade you really LEARN by DOING. No harm in youtube university now and again haha, thanks for the input!
Congrats on retirement btw!
Why didn't you mention what speeds you're running. Let alone for carbide
Nice buddy
@ 3:00...."Rigibility"?? B'lieve you mean Rigidity
"RIGIBILITY". Can't find it in any dictionary online. Perhaps rigidity would be a better choice............but all things being considered I don't believe I will be subscribing to listen to this drivel. No donut for you........
Using this type of machine you are prone to side mill using an end mill. They do not call them END mill for nothing. You should plunge cut an end mill and just light finish side climb mill. That way you only have to sharpen the bottom . End mill last much longer and less time grinding just the bottom.
Perhaps he said rigid ability
If you can’t measure closer than .005” with calipers you really need to replace your calipers.
you need to know who is watching. hss was made for steel, even for stainless. you cannot order people to throw it away and choose the 3x-5x more expensive option just because it is not used in the industry.
Carbide doesnt last long in worn out machines anyway.
full package seny
when did people start using the word "whenever" to mean "when"? Like nails on a chalkboard.
You should binge watch Blondiehacks, Mr. Pete, and Joe Pie videos before you put out another one.
Picky but "rigidity" instead of "rigability"
not TRUE,, in regards to the "climb cut" ..the climb cut works well for holding size and finish ..for instance..cutting a keyway ...use a SMALLER THAN REQUIRED dia. end mill to rough the keyway.. then remove the remainder of the width .by removing the SAME AMOUNT of material from EACH SIDE of the slot ..
STEEEEEEL, not STILL.
not an ideal presentation ... but ..it does include some basics ..
rigidity not rigibility
Id say its probably time to go ahead and take a refresher course so you can get some of yer facts straight, bud. Maybe your local community college might be a good place for something like that? 🤔
P.S.
...was that Rigi-BILITY?? Could you please explain to me the definition of Rigibility? I do love learning new words, and I'd like to add it to my vocabulary, just want to be certain I've got the correct definition, ya know? So that I'm not using it out of context... Hafta admit it does have a certain ring to it. Rigibility.
Hehehehe. 😆😳
High speed still
Rigeability? You mean Rigidity or stfiffness
I just cut steel with hss, weird. I do it everyday
Yeah mistakes were made when I said that. I was young back then (now I get back pain when I sneeze too hard haha) ! A revamped video will be made in the near future. Thanks again for watching, and tell your boss to get you some carbide too haha
When touching off your tool,
make sure your quill is up.
- well-manicured facial hair tool-guy
I don't know what your rubbing, but it ain't that block of material.😂
hahaha nice
“RIDGIBILTY”. Really?
"Rigibility" isn't a word, try rigidness instead.
You lost me on regrind...of course, they are used...
Climb cuttings on a lead screw machine can problematic.
A CNC mill has a ball screw, so it will not walk the cutter across the cut like a typical manual mill like a Bridgeport with a standard lead screw.
Many reasons why to climb cut, and only a few reasons to conventional cut .
Climb cut 99% to 100% of the time if possible on a CNC.
Conventional cutting on a BP, because you really have no choice.(Lead screw, no ball screw)
Just one example:
Conventional cutting pulls the cutter into the work, (cutting more than you want) and pulls the parts out of a vice.
Climb cutting pushes the cutter away, and the part down into the vice.
Climb cut leaves a better finish and longer tool life
Hard materials sometimes need to be conventional cut.
And so on,,,,,,
Rigidity not rigibility? Not a word.
Its rigidity. Not rigability. You made that up
Correct you are! Words not as easy as cut metal 🤣
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
can you redo in English we went metric in 1965
Rigability. Where did you find that word.
@@chrishill6276 on the shop floor 🤣. Good thing I don’t teach grammar!
your use of the word "ridgability" is bothering me. if you cant use the correct technical terms why would anyone trust your information?
면 되게 깨끗하다
Interpretation: If you are very clean. ???
As someone whose native language isn't english, please stop saying still when you mean steel.
The guy clearly has a southern accent
50 thouuu
Wtf is still?