Two things that could be improved upon, first mill in the other direction so the chips fly away from you and second lower the knee a small amount when returning to the starting point so you don't drag the inserts over the face of the part, this adds wear to the inserts and gives you a bad finish, also let the back end of the cutter clear the part before ending the cut or you will get the radius lines going in two different direction and the flatness will not be as good.
One fundamental of face milling & most milling operations is to cut from right to left so the chips fly towards the machine and not towards the operator, colleagues and all over the rest of the shop floor. If you use the tangential milling approach, any thickness part edge can be cut with a huge cutter without vibration
Its the same equations as an endmill, you just treat each insert as a flute and you treat the total diameter as cutter diameter. rpm= (SFM(that inserts are rated for)x3.82)/diameter feed = rpm x chip load x # of flutes SFM and chip load for given insert can be found on manufacturers website. These #'s are for CNC machining, manual you'll need to drop the numbers quite a bit depending on machine and go by feel.
@@surfnbird6480 It depends on the machine and how rigid it is. The only thing I can say is manual machines are always going to be significantly lower rpms and half is a good starting point. Depending on the operation maybe more, you'd have to by feel and sound.
@@sammerriman2331 thx wasn't expecting a response so fast. Got 10 insert 6in face mill running on a Cincinnati Gilbert boring machine face mill is bolted to spindle . Also I'm a sheet metal guy thrown into the machine shop so learning on the fly. So thx for info, will try and play around with it a bit just feel like I'm going through inserts fast but maybe it's normal
YES, this is NOT a drill press, and a large cutter takes HEAVY cuts, so tighten everything down TIGHT, that is not moving during a cut, and with the quill up top there is less runout as the quill is collapsed fully, and you are raising on the solid column v ways, and their gibs, so a much more rigid and accurate depth adjust, as you are using a lead screw, not the rack of the quill.
@@pr00009 He's got a good point, thats how I was taught, I leave the face mill all the way up, lock in the stop collars, and lock the quill lock, and I ONLY use the knee to raise the part, you can control the knee to the thousandths and I just raise it a few notches each time for my spring and finish pass.
are the inserts in a face mill or shell mill set at different Z heights? like the inserts are designed to engage the material in a sequence right? the 2nd insert is sitting a hair under the 1st insert, then the 3rd is below the 2nd am I right?
No. Inserts are set to the same rotating plane. Some larger face mills have adjustments built into the insert pocket to allow you to dial in inserts if you damage the tool
1000 RPM is a happy compromise. Keep in mind that lower RPM your tooling last longer. Less tool changes, thus saving time. When in doubt, to slow is better than to fast.
I know its an old video, but as someone new to a new "hobbiest" - I sure appreciate you taking the time to make this. Cheers
That would be "hobbyist". Hobbiest means something like the most hobby. Only it doesn't.
Two things that could be improved upon, first mill in the other direction so the chips fly away from you and second lower the knee a small amount when returning to the starting point so you don't drag the inserts over the face of the part, this adds wear to the inserts and gives you a bad finish, also let the back end of the cutter clear the part before ending the cut or you will get the radius lines going in two different direction and the flatness will not be as good.
One fundamental of face milling & most milling operations is to cut from right to left so the chips fly towards the machine and not towards the operator, colleagues and all over the rest of the shop floor. If you use the tangential milling approach, any thickness part edge can be cut with a huge cutter without vibration
Thank You for this video, very informative.
Nice work and very informative. Very good education for us amateur engineers.
Very interesting. Thanks.
watching this vid was amazing
Great Video I am a 73 year old nebbie looking forward to all of the Tutorials. Do you ever do ant Tutorials on the Manual lathe
Can you do a video about how to do the spindle speed and feed calculations for a facemill?
Its the same equations as an endmill, you just treat each insert as a flute and you treat the total diameter as cutter diameter.
rpm= (SFM(that inserts are rated for)x3.82)/diameter
feed = rpm x chip load x # of flutes
SFM and chip load for given insert can be found on manufacturers website. These #'s are for CNC machining, manual you'll need to drop the numbers quite a bit depending on machine and go by feel.
@@sammerriman2331on a manual machine would you reduce by half so like 600rpm down to 300 or
@@surfnbird6480 It depends on the machine and how rigid it is. The only thing I can say is manual machines are always going to be significantly lower rpms and half is a good starting point. Depending on the operation maybe more, you'd have to by feel and sound.
@@sammerriman2331 thx wasn't expecting a response so fast.
Got 10 insert 6in face mill running on a Cincinnati Gilbert boring machine face mill is bolted to spindle .
Also I'm a sheet metal guy thrown into the machine shop so learning on the fly. So thx for info, will try and play around with it a bit just feel like I'm going through inserts fast but maybe it's normal
You can put some time card paper in the vise to grip the part more if needed. This is a trick taught to me by my tool maker boss from Austria
Nice! Ill add that to the arsenal of tricks.
That works good when holding 2 pieces allegedly the same size.
raising the knee is a new one for me. makes sense. a pretty knowledgable video
YES, this is NOT a drill press, and a large cutter takes HEAVY cuts, so tighten everything down TIGHT, that is not moving during a cut, and with the quill up top there is less runout as the quill is collapsed fully, and you are raising on the solid column v ways, and their gibs, so a much more rigid and accurate depth adjust, as you are using a lead screw, not the rack of the quill.
@@andyvan5692 will remember that one
@@pr00009 He's got a good point, thats how I was taught, I leave the face mill all the way up, lock in the stop collars, and lock the quill lock, and I ONLY use the knee to raise the part, you can control the knee to the thousandths and I just raise it a few notches each time for my spring and finish pass.
I thought using the knee for depth milling is not only the norm but necessary.
are the inserts in a face mill or shell mill set at different Z heights? like the inserts are designed to engage the material in a sequence right? the 2nd insert is sitting a hair under the 1st insert, then the 3rd is below the 2nd am I right?
No. Inserts are set to the same rotating plane. Some larger face mills have adjustments built into the insert pocket to allow you to dial in inserts if you damage the tool
What was your spindle speed (RPM)?
1000 RPM is a happy compromise. Keep in mind that lower RPM your tooling last longer. Less tool changes, thus saving time. When in doubt, to slow is better than to fast.
Lmao...I hope you asked the guy "Yo, what happened to 'Naw man, it'll be fine.'?".
Equally wrong is milling with the quill extended and/or unlocked.
Step aside sir. I'll show you how it's done.