Lucifer is having trouble and we don't know why..
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
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Well... We’re pretty much stuck at the moment. The only thing left that we can do with the GT350 is send the injectors off to get flow tested before pulling the engine for further diagnosing. Hopefully we find something soon! 🤞
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First
I don’t know what the issue was precisely but I had the same problem on my car. When it rolled into boost between 5-6k it would just fall on its face and jerk like crazy but it would run great from 6-8.5k. I just yanked and replaced the whole pump so I could have faster command sequencing for fuel demand.
Might be a sensor so the car thinks car is in danger in yhe higher RPM due to the boost.
What I was thinking from the start is coil packs not being able to keep up so maybe try and find some coil pack upgrades
Looks like a sensor is losing signaling and catching up, with the turbo setup is the maf goofing up telling the ecm that it needs less fuel briefly?
I had a similar problem with my Camaro and it turned out to be a ground issue which is weird but turns out I needed and extra ground wire or one of my grounds were not properly grounded hope you read this and hope this helps
I was also gonna say this or maybe a battery voltage issue
Was thinking the same, being thats it rpm specific, the vibration there is jarring something into a bad connection.
Yeah that’s what I figured and the only way I figured out I had a bad ground was because I had a obd2 scanner connected while I was driving to read any issues and the problem would disappear and at first I was like WTF!!!! But than it hit me lol
I had a 2013 mustang 6 speed that had this issue as well
This needs to be seen
haha, remember when Gavin said "I want to keep this one stock to be my daily''... fun times
Last famous words
Lol “i just want a fun reliable daily”
I’m dead🤣🤣🤣🤣☠️☠️
66th like
And before that he said that satan will be a street car
You should check the voltage on the pumps, it could be that it needs another ground causing the pump to skip once it hits a certain rpm. It happened on a 335i I used to work on.
Another commenter commented this too, he had that problem with his Camaro, it could be from certain vibrations or something but i hope Gavin sees these comments
@@fedor5664 yeah it’s an simple issue that can cost a lot of money if not diagnosed. I hope he sees the comments before it gets to that point
Fuel pressure was normal
@@SuperCreativeLemon it’s not always gonna show a pressure drop. That’s what caught me. I kept a voltmeter on it while on the dyno and sure enough it was a voltage drop
It’s crazy how gavin literally gave us videos in his apartment complex to the point where he has a legit space for just him and his friends and a DYNO and y’all already know a hell lot more 🤦♂️ I know his mom and dad proud 🥲🙏
What he said
What he said
What he said
You really think you can tell the difference between a V6 and a V8? Ill give you 25 if you guess the sound of these engines th-cam.com/video/bf95yKD2feg/w-d-xo.html
Good luck!
When you sit down for a lunch and Gavin posts a new video 👌🏽
Same 👌
Right there with yuh haha
fr bro
When you sit down and use the toilet and watch the new video 🍑
For me it's dinner😂
Luciferrrrrr
Foooooord!
@@GETLITUP69 LMAO
Mustanggggg
Just a idea and hopefully it helps. If it's going lean at 6k rpm everytime. Maybe its the 3rd fuel pump coming on and causing the fuel issue by voltage drop or causing other pumps to suck air for a second when 3rd pump comes on..
@itsjusta6
i wonder if its running out of alternator and when those fuel pumps kick on it drags the whole system down slowing the injectors, spark, and how fast that pump gets going
Thats exactly what I thought the issue was as well
This could be a possibility
That or just a harness issue not allowing enough current or amperage on the injectors.
Only thing is is when it reaches high rpm the alternator should be getting the most power generated so im thinking more of the harness
@@Martinicheers coming from a car audio guy, alternators make peak power at around 1500 rpm, any higher than that it's not changing, but im sure with those pumps he's drawing easily another 100 amps at full tilt, idk what cooling fan changes he's made because I just don't remember, but thwy make racing specific alternators and I think it would benefit
Sitting here in labor and delivery waiting for my first born to get here, keep up the good work bud, love your videos!
Congratulations
Congrats man!
@@ghostk5763 thanks bub
@@BlurrrieMedia thanks bub
Congratulations
A video of Lucifer doing pull after pull. Now that's asmr
Sadly not healthy pulls
@@justinhailey1799 true but a pull is still a pull in my mind
Needs extra grounds, low voltage when the pumps come on
"The Majority of the car is just working on it, you don't even get to spend time with it" "IT WILL WORK THIS TIME MOM I PROMISE!"
Thats how it goes with a project car
Have you tried adding another “don’t lose sight” sticker?
that only adds 10hp it doesnt make it more reliable
Maybe try taking the piggyback you put it back out or at least disabling it. Could be having some correction over lambda which would give you that problem
This needs to get to the top
IDK man, a lean condition can be caused by a bad spark. I'm thinking spark plugs, coils, or other ignition problems. They said in the video if it were missing due to missed spark the sensor would read lean due to the excess fuel, which is just not true. The AFR sensor works by detecting the oxygen content of the air passing by. If there is a missed spark, unburnt fuel and oxygen pass by the AFR sensor which would then read lean (their exact scenario). With my 2013 turbo dodge dart, it would break up at high RPMs only under boost. Turned out it just needed a coil pack. I made another comment, hopefully, he sees one because this is a common misconception, but can cause massive headaches when troubleshooting.
Sadly, between a few of these pulls, we had actually disconnected the AMS entirely & still had the same issue ☹️
@@bocaj949 I was thinking it was still a spark issue too man.
Any possibility that of not enough grounds ?
Thank you for making this video you have made my day. Yesterday i was going to a car meet but i couldn't make it and im still a lil bit sad-mad. but seeing you push thru problems is giving me corage and i just wanna thank you. Hope you fix it.
After you relearned the CKP and CMP you might want to check too see if there was any resistance or continuity at either of the sensors? Voltage might still be okay but might wanna check on the resistance/continuity from the sensors and coming from the ECM itself. It’ll help you too see if there might be a faulty ground on one of those two sensors or from ECM.
Sounds like it may just be his ECU
can’t wait for lucifer to get back out there. one day at a time!!!
Have you tried looking at the cam and crank sensor signal while on the dyno to see if the signal drops off or spikes up? Just a thought as I’ve had an issuer before with a crank sensor where it makes the engine light flash at 3000 rpm but it’s fine at any other rpm 👌👍🏻
Jack stand go get your tool box!!! Wrong channel I know but how amazing would be if clettus and James came down and just find the issue no problem haha
Looking at how consistent it is it might be your ecu
A lean condition can be caused by a misfire due to a bad spark. The AFR sensor measures oxygen content and when you have a failed spark event unburnt oxygen and fuel both are shot out the tailpipe. Excess fuel doesn't affect the reading of the gauge, it's the unburnt oxygen. The problem is going to be spark-related if the injectors are confirmed fine (which IMO they should be).
at 10:00 you can hear them get it backwards
Have you guys checked for voltage drop? Both through the overall car and engine harness and to the ECU?
yea what he say
Good thinking. When does the third pump jump in?
@@ethansmith1726 haha.... 6k lmfao
Maybe have all 3 pumps run all the time just to see if it solves it. Not that they'll see this.
@@NefariousStrudel I thought they said in a previous video not too long ago that they ran all 3 pumps just to try it. It wasn't in an attempt to solve anything back when they did it, but I don't think that'd solve it.
A couple things to check. First off, log individual cylinder misfires. Narrow it down to which hole is misfiring.
Check all engine and chassis grounds, the ones from the engine to the ECU, and the battery to engine, engine to firewall, engine to chassis, fuel tank to chassis, etc. Check power cables for corrosion inside the insulated casings.
Lastly, do your homework and learn how to tune yourself inhouse.
I laughed at the "this is where all the TH-cam mechanics come out" lol
I don’t see any yet 😂
But good chance there will be 1 out of all of them will actually know something.
At first I thought injectors till it went rich then I was like uhhh... 🤣 but it still could be lol.
I saw this as I heard it fucking killed me made it 10x better 🤣🤣
@@2dazed685 ok well seeing your comment tell everybody here what you know then instead of being antagonistic and arrogant dude…
A couple of things come to mind from my Terminator days. Check the in tank hose that connects the fuel pumps to the hat. Especially with using E-85, you may be collapsing one of those lines (or a slice in a line). That would not be enough to drop fuel pressure, but you would lose volume, which would in turn lean it out. Next, go one step colder on the plugs and gap them at like 0.18"
4 issue you might be having. 1. Pull injectors and clean flow bench test them. 1. Check your Fuel filters for any issues. 3. You might be having failing coil packs as they usually start showing the symptoms you are seeing at high RPM's. 4. Check connections for the coil packs and harnesses/ grounds as others have mentioned. Bad grounds or lack of grounds with being 3 pumps can cause voltage draw on the system and show cut outs mid pull such as you are having. Also LUND should be able to narrow down issues as obviously you are having irregularities and breakup which you proven on the dyno and that correlates to the LOGS as well.. all those spikes would be recorded and they would see if Ignition/spark is being cut or not, if Fuel pressure is being lost by each cylinder as the temp in each cylinder should be going higher if it has fuel issues.
Check your grounds and whats the voltage at?
It's the variable intake and timing/valves. You're trying to force air in and shutting the door, there's a point where everything changes and you aren't letting it do it's job.
I was just sitting here bored, was like “someone upload” and then boom!
I think an oscilloscope would be a good purchase for this shop. That would allow you to continually watch voltage through things on the car such as ckp and cam position sensor as it's running on the dyno. You could also back probe the ecu on a run and watch that as other have stated it could be dropping voltage out of the ecu.
when i get the noti that a new itsjusta6 vid, my exitement goes so high
I love how some people actually try to help Gavin instead of giving advice that people that have even the slightest interest in cars know is just a stupid decision lmao
There’s no better way to sell car parts at Ac Delco than watching gavin need parts for his car
Hey mate, I understand your problems here. My Subaru Liberty 3.0RB when i did a twin turbo setup on it had the same issue after I twin turbo'ed it on E85, It ran perfectly fine for about 2 weeks til It suddenly started breaking up up top, then it got worse, I changed plugs to a smaller gap, no difference, changed coil packs, no change again, I found a slightly burnt injector wire, replaced the injectors, and the injector harness and it was all good, 120k kms later, its still chopping Evo's. I hope it's something simple like that, and not a major engine issue.
You and Doug do fantastic work, don't get discouraged.
Oh and check engine grounds, could have a grounding issue with the extra pumps.
Bad O2 sensor? 🤷🏽♂️
Edit: commented this before they swapped them...
You're on the right path with Cam phaser or timing out of sync. I personally think it's a phaser issue by the way it long cranks like no compression on multiple cylinders/one whole bank "timing off", then it starts making oil pressure "cam phaser can correct it's broken/improper timing" then it fires up. You hear it not making proper compression until roughly 35PSI of oil pressure, this leads me to believe it's a phaser issue or spun cam gear. it's like you hit a specific oil pressure, the phaser starts working, it sounds normal and it fires.
I dropped my dab torch at the same time the fire extinguisher fell and i thought it echoed in my house then i look and its the video 😂 im done smoking for the day 🤦
😂🤙
💀💀💀💀 That's why I just pack bowls in my bong or roll something up lmao
@@db_auto_photography4539 hell nah globs over anything
Ain't nothing scarier than dropping the torch LOL
10:26 what it’s like owning a coyote motor. Them LS things are like legos lol
Maybe grounds? I had a issue appearing just like your dyno graphs and resulted in a ground.
FUEL LINE. ONE OF THE TWO
I just wanna say that i absolutely LOVE that intro
There was an offhanded comment thrown around where you said you changed the plugs and it got better.
I'm no master mechanic but I'd put my money on electrical issues
Waiting for my 2019 to get to this Lucifer stage haha. Maybe slightly tuned down so it works
needs an ecu box, not a huge deal, some just dont like high power input while being vibrated. Literally buy one from a wrecker and reprogram it will solve all your issues, $300 4 bolts 2 plugs
Old guys like me will remember the Ford ads from the 70's and will get this comment: That's one of Ford's better ideas that didn't quite work out...
Ford had a better idea, but they kept it and didnt release it.
@@thebeardofgaming81 no way
haaaahaa nice
You really think you can tell the difference between a V6 and a V8? Ill give you 25 if you guess the sound of these engines th-cam.com/video/bf95yKD2feg/w-d-xo.html
Good luck!
@@ImAFanboy There are so many variables that come to play in this. You can have the same motor and use 5 different types of exhaust, and it would sound different every time. I can tell the difference with many of them with stock exhaust, only American and some foreign. I have not work on any exotics to know. Yeah, there is TH-cam, but thats a lot different than working on them for years.
All I hear is “job security”😂
Just give the car to KSR and they’ll get it perfect.
Wow that sucks! Hope you figure it out soon.
Knock knock...
Who’s there
“The 3rd engine “
Gavin- DUUUUUGGG she’s knockinnn again And it’s not Halloween 🎃
A drop in fuel pressure would indicate a flow issue to the injectors, a weird varience to AFR from a external working wideband indicates a fuel supply issue, if there isn't a surge in boost or a reduction in boost at the RPM range, then that won't be affecting AFR's. If we move up the line you could have a valve issue, either not letting enough fuel, or letting too much fuel in, but considering its a new engine and that would display as different issues too. At a certain RPM more voltage is required to allow spark plugs, injectors etc to fire, so what could be happening is your ground to power might not be 1:1, and there could be too much or too little resistance at that point thats causing the electronics to not be able to do what it's supposed to do. I would recommend to check all ground wires, battery terminals, check all injector and fuel pump wiring for continuity to rule out whether those are faulty, however what I recommend to everyone when I speak to them about engine works and electronic stuff is to when you've made massive changes, like more electronics etc, is to increase the gauage of the wiring used on both the power and ground wires. Its a tedious job, but considering the change in the tune did nothing and its happening now, I would suggest you might have some burnt out wires, either on the injector, fuel pump wiring side, could also be wiring to the coil packs. I believe strongly its a WIRING and ELECTRICAL issue rather than a mechanical issue. RPM based usually indicates an electrical problem due to interference in the wiring circuit.
Hello from Waco TX !!!!
👍🇨🇱
Wacko Texas. Hell yea brother.
Dallas ❤️
Could be something with the turbo compressor approaching the surge line momentarily. Maybe ramping up boost a bit differently would cure it? MAF volume may be something to watch over boost pressure.
heck yeah , our mans beard game is on point !
My buddy’s mustang had an issue at WOT and it was something to do with the throttle position sensor or whatever it’s actually called. Not saying that’s it but it’s worth a shot at this point
Who heard Street Speed say he might want to Race Gavin someday 🤔
Streetspeed would take a fat L
@@burgerbandit3646 🤣Gavin gets that stang running right Probably
@@taters7359 gavin will have 2 stangs to gap him twice
Check grounds and watch for a drop in volts. 6k seems to be where the 3rd pump kicks on. Fuel pressure seemed normal but those gauges are slow to respond to small dips.
Is there any chance the car may have a cracked intake manifold causing it to lean out?
90% sure It is not a mechanical issue. Try removing your ams system completly since it was working fine before. Its either a bug in the software // your ams system confusing the car. Or component related ( cracked spark plug, COP, injector, ground, etc...) keep up the good work !
From a ford tech
" Make it make 1300 horsepower they said" Nah bro you're the only one who said that hahaha I'm here for it though
I’m frustrated for you man. Super excited for “the black car” build though
You need to get PFI speed to come up there and hell you out, that man is a Genius! Or cleetus, bootsted bois, Kevin, I’m ready to see y’all in some videos together! So this is the best start!
Can really tell the hurt in Gavin voice like he’s starting give up on his car
Perfect timing for lunch 😂
I agree
Second that
For real! Just sat down with food
It’s 10:04 for me
@@HondaCivic-lj4ri 19:04 for me
Well, I would look at when that third fuel pump turns on and is casing flow issues without looking like it's terrible from the fuel pressure. I would also recommend hooking up an oscilloscope to fuel pressure and at least a coil to see what fuel pressure is at exact rpm, and it wouldn't hurt to hook it up to fuel injectors and see the current as they actuate.
You going to race street speed? That would be cool to see
Heard about that too with the Pocono event
6 dont like him
1. Check your wiring. Is something shorting due to vibration? 2. Check your fuel pump. Dirty gas maybe. Sock detached? Sock position.
I Think it’s time for a More updated Intro
I think they have to get the cars working first for a new intro. Like the truck, black car, camero, etc.
You will get a false lean with misfire. I would focus on spark more than anything else. I have had this problem on other E85 set ups. Better coils, tighter spark plug gaps and higher duty cycle on the coils is what fixed the problem I was having @itsjusta6
best timing cuz it’s lunch time 😀
A misfire reads lean on a wideband. NOT rich. Air gets used during combustion. The wideband reads the oxygen content only. If it is not used in combustion, it will be read by the wideband as a lean condition.
gavin bro, is it spinning on the dino cuz that might be the problem
Does it on the street too
So spark blow out actually causes a lean condition and depending on cam timing this can cause spark blow out. Also fuel volume does not equal fuel pressure. You can have a system that will struggle to maintain pressure but won’t supply the volume. I would say to look at all grounding and check the power source you are using for ams because alternator or power issues can cause this and also cause fuel delivery issues. Hope this helps
Am I tripping or do I remember him saying he’s doing a turbo 5.2 predator on the black car😅
If he is that thing is gonna be a beast. All day long 1100whp on a blower so it could easily make 1300whp + on a turbo
Yup, I think he said it on Shmee video some time ago.
Predator isn’t a 5.2 is it? I thought it was a 5.8 or something like that
@@tuckercobern8954 the trinity engine from the ‘13-14 shelby is the 5.8 you’re probably thinking of
@@tuckercobern8954 Predator is 5.2. It is quite noticeably different than Voodoo of course. Apart of the most obvious difference, which is the supercharger, it does not have flat plane crankshaft. 5th Gen Shelby GT500 had 5.8.
It’s most likely a ground issue on the injector harness. It’s probably causing noise within the circuit and causing the the voltage to fluctuate. Could explain how the afr went rich and then went at the same RPM on different pulls
Finally some content not another frs kit 🙄
Maybe try having the engine under cruise on the dyno and check the egt of each cylinder with an ir thermometer.
Likely an injector issue as many other TH-camrs have to regularly clean and flow test injectors with cars on E and that sit regularly.
An injector doesn't have to be fully dead or clogged, there's many failure modes and could be a sluggish solenoid or something. Who knows
Can we get a separate channel of Doug doing fitness videos hahaha.... but seriously I’d watch them 👍
🌈🌈🌈
I love seeing you guys get hung up on things like this i dont like that it drives yall insane but i like it because it reminds me how straight forward you are on TH-cam anyone else would’ve not made a video until they found the problem but you made the video more realistic by showing your struggles but I love the great work yall put into the cars and making videos if there is an award for TH-camr of the yeah they would owe you for the past three years and you would win again this year
Don't you have boost by speed set in it? Maybe it's the boost setting at 6k rpm...
They set it to just waste gates
injectors, inline fuel filter, fpr, voltage for fuel pumps (IE if you have a lot of bass in a car you need a second alternator, 3 giant fuel pumps will pull enough voltage to do this)
Check/monitor voltage at fuel pumps while doing dyno run, if using factory pump harness to run dual pumps you're probably having voltage drop at higher rpm/pump load. If so run a dedicated fuel pump relay/harness from the battery with larger gauge wiring, I have seen this issue before when upgrading fuel pump on factory pump harness.
Check the wiring. Maybe you have a ground issue or not enough power running. Doesn’t hurt to check
Take a scan tool and watch the live pids for the fuel pump and fuel pressure. Maybe the fuel pump is cutting out or has the power switch out. If the duty cycle on the pump is going in a static line this is possible, there are points in the duty cycle to turn off the pump in order to maintain pressure but not make too much pressure, could be that the duty cycle on the pump is hitting that point in the duty cycle and is cutting out
Pressure =/= flow. Check fuel filter(s). Have the injectors gone through. Could also be a bad ground in the injector harness.
Ford tech here also own boost car it is very possible you have some sort of pump problem. Sounds stupid but usually the pump will work to what looks fine but the actual flow of the pumps are not up to part. I would just check the flow of the all the pumps and make sure you do not have one fuel pump that is dropping flow rate. Which would give you a similar issue if the pump isn’t flowing correctly then it doesn’t matter how many times you command fuel it’s gonna drop off everytime. Considering you have triple pumps and you have two running and kicks in at higher rpm/boost try that.
I think it's a intermittent crank sync issue (the way it starts also shows this) being either crank sensor itself or crank/cam sync. Cam phasing could be very well part of it. It may not be getting what it's commanding at that RPM.
SORRY FOR THE CAPS BUT I WANT YOU TO SEE THIS. YOU NEED A EXTRA GROUND FOR ALL THE PUMPS SINCE YOU SAID THEY KICK ON AROUND 6000 RPM. CHECK THE FUSES AS WELL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't care if its being worked on or driven.😍 I'm just@6 or just happy to see a Ford again. 👍🏾💪🏾
Yea, condensation in intercooler built up from sitting, getting water pushed up to heater wire on maf, takeoff intake tube see if it's got water markes in it, or if there is a plug in intercooler , intercooler builds up allot of trash can even grow mold and funk,
Satans build:
5.2 from 2020 GT500
Twin turbo setup
Probably gonna be a fender dump or front bumper dump as Gavin said it’s not gonna have it’s corsa exhaust on it.
Probably gonna be a 1400-1500+ motor.
You need to have your motors built by the same builders that built the GT 500 motor in neighbor for cleetus. That thing is a beast and reliable
Cleetus was having this exact same issue with Leroy and it was the crank signal sensor. And they chased this issue for days too.
you should get sound padding for that wall to make the office a lil quieter
Wasn’t mustang lifestyle having this issue? His was voltage problems if I remember correctly, maybe have the battery tested and upgrade to an Agm battery and/or high output alternator to help with voltage.
Cant wait to see the TT Predator in the black car
Cant wait for the black stang to be back up and running🔥🔥
It could be an alternator because at 6000 RPMs it could be spiking up and voltage or the belt is slipping at low RPMs because all of the torque and then catch his grip at 6000 RPM and spikes is up the voltage making the injectors spray more you could try putting a voltage regulator something like that on the injectors and seeing if it spikes up Out of nowhere
At first glance with the info known it does not appear to be a tune or mechanical related issue. If the issue persists after various tune revisions and the motor is still healthy you have to consider other avenues where problems can arise. Given that it is such a consistent issue around 6k rpm you might wanna look at the electrical system overall. The hobbs switch turning on the third pump could be bringing the system voltage down just enough to change you injectors pulse width and the ecu isn't able to correct it fast enough giving you the lean spot. This may point to a bad alternator or a battery that isn't strong enough. An alternator issue is unlikely as if it was a bad alternator it would get worse as time progresses. Injector issues are also to be considered but you would see it throughout the whole map that its demanding more fuel than it used to if they were starting to clog up. Just my 2 cents
O2/ wide band do not monitor fuel only air, if you have a miss it will still go lean due to the air and fuel not burning but will only read air.
This is either a spark issue or ground issue. Check your spark plugs and plug gap, Could have a coil pack going out too. You're losing spark under heavy load. My turbo silverado had a similar issue.