Make sure you add a little plate onto the trailing arm where the bump stop hits so it dosnt slide off the edge of the tube bending the additional structure you made or have the trailing arm hit where you don't want it too, If it is like tube trailing arm for Baja vw beetles you will want a little platewhere the bushing hits.
And you have to account for flex as well. A hard hit that pushes the suspension all the way down might also bend the framework so it misses the point it contacts in unloaded state.
@@butchs.4239 Some primers far as i know collect moisture, so just prime and put on some color as protection. Can always come back later and give it more detailed paintjob after its properly tested.
I hope there are times that you stand back from your creations and have them blow your own mind. You are very talented and should be very proud of yourself. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This build has the potential to be THE best build on TH-cam. Still typical of a RBW build in that it’s probably 30 to 40% heavier than needed based on an unfounded idea of what’s needed for strength.
Loving this build! Traditional Crosskarts don't have bumpers so I say go without one until you crash and wreck the A arms. Then maybe consider a crash guard XD
I’ve been paying attention to when you have the suspension at full extension to full compression. It appears this might be the best suspension set-up to date. For example, say you have 100” of wheel travel. With you in the buggy, gear, fuel, the suspension should compress about 25”-35”. You want 25-35% of the wheel travel for “Rider Sag”. I’m interested to see how the rear-end will react to sway?
No need to apologise for wanting to do things right. The amount of time and effort (not least money) you've put into this project is immense. Can't wait to see the videos of it in action. :)
Great progress, keep it up! Make sure to add pins to the nuts that are holding the wheel hubs together, those nylon nuts will harden and start to open themselves, killing the bearings early. :)
Man I’m blown away you didn’t paint the frame while it was apart. I hope I’m missing something but I just can’t imagine why you wouldn’t at least a clear coat on it. These buggy is my favorite build of yours and is one of the best buggy’s on TH-cam so I’m not mocking you at all the opposite actually.
You are amazing Chris! You seem to challenge yourself with each new build to make something bigger better than the one before, Your comment in the blooper section of stupidly over complicated is a good reminder of the old KISS principal, if you are out bush having fun on your own, far from your transport, and that complicated part breaks down, how do you "Heath Robinson" it back together to get yourself moving again? I think from now on mate you better include a mandatory tool box on all your machines. Mate the seat tilt forward and have a toolbox /bag there. I look forward to each one of your videos Chris it is a Shame that you and Ethan (GHPC) live so far apart 2 joint projects between you both would be awesome. I don't mind if you double the length of the videos, just saying grin 😁 You need a videographer and editor so you can keep working! (I would volunteer but the commute from Western Australia would be a killer!) Tony from Western Australia
Not to pick anything apart but the jam nut on the chain tensioners should be on the inside so they can’t loosen up. Idk if you fixed that later but just a thought. Love the build by the way. It looks cool.
when you've finished reassembling it, testing it, stripping it, painting it and reassembling it again. you should try building a 1/3 midget (1/2 way between a little 1/4 midget and a 2/4 (TQ) midget. but with a 750cc engine and take on GrindHard Plumbing Co's sprint car in a head to head on a dirt oval (keep it simple, small and light)
this thing is gonna look so cool. cant wait to see the final result! and bump stops need flat surfaces! lol im sure you already knew that though but just incase.
To put the bearings back into the case, get yourself some "Assembly Goo" or just thick grease if you can't be bothered. It will hold all the needles in place while you assemble. They actually make this stuff specifically for transmissions so it won't hurt anything for sure. I use it on lots of stuff. I like the green stuff as it is quite thick. You can get a tub on Amazon for $12 or so. Well worth it.
Very talented young engineer tbf love yours and the rest of the other channels/ you tubers vids eg ghp moto mule cars and cams and probs more I’ve missed
You should mount the bump stops a couple of inches below the target upward spot. The stops are going to compress and if you have them at the limit of upward travel it'll result in hyper-extending the suspension.
Blue loctite on stuff that needs to come off more easily for repair. Red Loctite for stuff that needs to be more permanent. This build is coming along quite nicely. Cannot wait to see it hit the trails.
I was thinking the same thing but figured he’s not done with the welder yet and like all his other builds he runs them at least once before deciding that he’s done welding and ready for paint which inevitably means he’ll end up grinding paint off to weld something later.
@@3GingerCats He does but it not like the paint is gonna be perfect. I would paint not and just touch up as needed if there was a change. Hell all the carts I have dont i just cover the engine and paint it. LOL Im to lazy.
This gets asked every build, and every build he explains that he wants to thoroughly test the machine before he commits to painting it. I guess that he sees painting as the final step in a finished machine, regardless of the efficiency in the process.
i love the body design its seems just right like a cockpit however that rear end i can just tell is going to be either a problem OR high maintenance torsional
I would suggest using castellated nuts and cotter pins on your frame bolts, suspension and axle nuts. If not, at least use safety wire on the critical points.
Looks great .you should build one out of a razor RZR 4x4 like one that was recked ..that would be awesome..but cool your work is amazing and keep up the great videos.
I was wondering if you had tried raising and lowering each back wheel with the chains on and the wheels and tires on it? I had thought of this same type of independent rear suspension on a project of mine but assumed i would need a differential to keep it from binding up if it landed more on one side without being able to spin the other tire with the solid axle doing both sides?
Get some dyneema rope for that winch, lot lighter and just nicer to use. also somewhat safer. Even the cheap generic stuff off ebay is good. got some real cheap stuff and it was strong enough to winch a fully loaded 60 series landcruiser out of some real bad situations, and if you do manage to snap it, its easy as to fix, you can do it in the field with no tools for a quick fix or to do it properly you just need heat-shrink and a lighter/heat source. after using the rope, I'll never go back to that awful steel cable. plus it does not rust and you can clean it in a bucket of soapy water.
Add a zerk fitting to the hubs, that way you can easily pack the bearings without having to physically takevthe apart and pack them because that is a pita.
Have you ever considered spray welding your frames? I know you’ve said you wanted to tig them to look super professional and since that’d take too long spray welding might be better since it looks cleaner and is stronger than short circuit and doesn’t take forever like tig, just an idea. Love the buggy builds faint wait for the next grave ninja video!
He always disassembles and paints as the final step in the build, partly so that he can test the machine first and partly because that's just how he likes to do things.
Where you have your pivot point for the rear trailing arms, did you think about using a torsion bar for a bug at all? Maybe another build, but just a question.
Make sure you add a little plate onto the trailing arm where the bump stop hits so it dosnt slide off the edge of the tube bending the additional structure you made or have the trailing arm hit where you don't want it too, If it is like tube trailing arm for Baja vw beetles you will want a little platewhere the bushing hits.
And you have to account for flex as well. A hard hit that pushes the suspension all the way down might also bend the framework so it misses the point it contacts in unloaded state.
Was thinking the same! A small metal plate to meet the bump stop!
th-cam.com/video/_sx6oN_77uY/w-d-xo.html
Best looking build yet
agreed! aesthetically way better than the last buggy build.
Jes and that rubber rings against the barings are gone get destroyd fast
The cinematography with this video and seeing your prowess as a builder as its progressed is amazing
All your work is amazing but this definitely looks like its shaping up to be your best yet. Keep on truckin dude
When the video "ends" three minutes early, you know there's goodies at the end.
To protect bearings I always use Nilos rings. Very cheap, strong and effective!
I don’t envy you having to completely disassemble that thing AGAIN when you paint it! DAMN!
I would have painted it while it was apart already🤣
I think the same ! haha
At least a primer/sealer so it's doesn't rust over the winter while he's finalizing things/working on the other builds.
@@butchs.4239 Some primers far as i know collect moisture, so just prime and put on some color as protection. Can always come back later and give it more detailed paintjob after its properly tested.
This build looks cool. Keep up with the good work 👏🏻
I hope there are times that you stand back from your creations and have them blow your own mind. You are very talented and should be very proud of yourself. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is seriously my favorite build so far! This is gonna be an amazing machine!
Need to be able to give 2 thumbs up. Awesome work. Can't wait to see it full send!
Your skills have improved so much, such high quality workmanship. Keep up the great work
We need 1hr long vids man !!! The longer the better
Bumper is a lot easier to replace then control arms and frame sections, I would highly recommend one.
This build has the potential to be THE best build on TH-cam.
Still typical of a RBW build in that it’s probably 30 to 40% heavier than needed based on an unfounded idea of what’s needed for strength.
I cannot wait to see this build in action, I have a feeling its going to peel your eyelids off when you send it.
Thats one thing I like about your builds you show clips of mishaps.
Loving this build! Traditional Crosskarts don't have bumpers so I say go without one until you crash and wreck the A arms. Then maybe consider a crash guard XD
I’ve been paying attention to when you have the suspension at full extension to full compression. It appears this might be the best suspension set-up to date. For example, say you have 100” of wheel travel. With you in the buggy, gear, fuel, the suspension should compress about 25”-35”. You want 25-35% of the wheel travel for “Rider Sag”.
I’m interested to see how the rear-end will react to sway?
@dylan zrim, I question the rear trailing arms too, but we’re gonna find out! I think body roll
Ins going to be an issue too.
No need to apologise for wanting to do things right. The amount of time and effort (not least money) you've put into this project is immense. Can't wait to see the videos of it in action. :)
Great progress, keep it up! Make sure to add pins to the nuts that are holding the wheel hubs together, those nylon nuts will harden and start to open themselves, killing the bearings early. :)
hello bro greetings from Indonesia. always an inspiration
Content and build quality is just getting better
I love what you do it’s so inspiring and I could see the hard work you put in to your videos for all of us tanks keep on grinding
I helped you in the trail Nov 7th I'm the kid with the ttr230 we pulled you out with the honda quad and there was the rzr too
Thanks for yet another great building video from you Chris. 👍😁
Man I’m blown away you didn’t paint the frame while it was apart. I hope I’m missing something but I just can’t imagine why you wouldn’t at least a clear coat on it. These buggy is my favorite build of yours and is one of the best buggy’s on TH-cam so I’m not mocking you at all the opposite actually.
Great build keep up the awesome videos totally enjoy time lapse and soundtrack
love the outtakes at the end😂
Great video! Alas, I'm glad you didn't have your hand under that sprocket too!
I've never laughed so hard at one of your bloopers. The way that rod went airborne was comical. .............😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
Yeah, Chris was glad it missed his hand, I was thinking he was lucky his knee wasn't an inch closer, we'd have heard some bleeps there for sure.
I know your a metal guy, but that's why i always use a 2X4 or 2X6 more surface area and more stable...
Lucky it was comical, could have hit him in the head or eye, then it would have been another story...
I'd love to see it painted in a red and blue scheme or a red white and blue scheme murica lol either way I cant wait to see this bald eagle fly!
I am curious to see how well the rear suspension and drive components are going to perform together. Your most interesting build yet!
You are amazing Chris!
You seem to challenge yourself with each new build to make something bigger better than the one before,
Your comment in the blooper section of stupidly over complicated is a good reminder of the old KISS principal, if you are out bush having fun on your own, far from your transport, and that complicated part breaks down, how do you "Heath Robinson" it back together to get yourself moving again?
I think from now on mate you better include a mandatory tool box on all your machines.
Mate the seat tilt forward and have a toolbox /bag there.
I look forward to each one of
your videos Chris it is a Shame that you and Ethan (GHPC) live so far apart 2 joint projects between you both would be awesome.
I don't mind if you double the length of the videos, just saying grin 😁
You need a videographer and editor so you can keep working!
(I would volunteer but the commute from Western Australia would be a killer!)
Tony from Western Australia
Fantástico como sempre!!!
Me arrepiou vendo aquela barra de ferro voando apos eu lado!!!Não queremos que se machuque!!!
João Carlos - Brasil
Working working WORKING RESPECT
Not to pick anything apart but the jam nut on the chain tensioners should be on the inside so they can’t loosen up. Idk if you fixed that later but just a thought. Love the build by the way. It looks cool.
when you've finished reassembling it, testing it, stripping it, painting it and reassembling it again. you should try building a 1/3 midget (1/2 way between a little 1/4 midget and a 2/4 (TQ) midget. but with a 750cc engine and take on GrindHard Plumbing Co's sprint car in a head to head on a dirt oval (keep it simple, small and light)
It will be interesting to see how the “twin-chain drive” will work
Love watching this stuff! Keep the great content coming.
Put a cotter pin through the axle nuts. I wouldn’t rely on just nylock to hold the wheels on
Long time viewer here. I came at 10k subs. Glad to see you doing well. Great job
Hands down the best build yet highly anticipated ride video!!! Great work Chris!!
this thing is gonna look so cool. cant wait to see the final result! and bump stops need flat surfaces! lol im sure you already knew that though but just incase.
You should get it powder coated 🔥🔥😍😍
To put the bearings back into the case, get yourself some "Assembly Goo" or just thick grease if you can't be bothered. It will hold all the needles in place while you assemble. They actually make this stuff specifically for transmissions so it won't hurt anything for sure. I use it on lots of stuff.
I like the green stuff as it is quite thick. You can get a tub on Amazon for $12 or so. Well worth it.
Make sure You pack those bearings before you ride this thing.
Very talented young engineer tbf love yours and the rest of the other channels/ you tubers vids eg ghp moto mule cars and cams and probs more I’ve missed
Can't wait to see this thing rip Bro you gotta go full send on this build You can do it 😁 Awesome build RBW 🔥👍✌️
Oh men i love your channel and your projects.. i hope wish have a railbuggy some day!!
Yea looks good but I was wondering how much welding wire you go throw on the buggie
Very cool looking!!! Great job!!
You should mount the bump stops a couple of inches below the target upward spot. The stops are going to compress and if you have them at the limit of upward travel it'll result in hyper-extending the suspension.
Need to add a cup on the trailing arm for the bumpstop to have more surface area to land on, looks like it may deflect on a full compression
I love this build so much! 🤤
You should also put in limiter straps. So the suspension doesn't extend to far
Blue loctite on stuff that needs to come off more easily for repair. Red Loctite for stuff that needs to be more permanent.
This build is coming along quite nicely. Cannot wait to see it hit the trails.
No paint on this project seems like the best time for paint would have been when u had it apart
I was thinking the same thing but figured he’s not done with the welder yet and like all his other builds he runs them at least once before deciding that he’s done welding and ready for paint which inevitably means he’ll end up grinding paint off to weld something later.
@@Crewsy He always tests them out before stripping them again and painting
@@3GingerCats He does but it not like the paint is gonna be perfect. I would paint not and just touch up as needed if there was a change. Hell all the carts I have dont i just cover the engine and paint it. LOL Im to lazy.
This gets asked every build, and every build he explains that he wants to thoroughly test the machine before he commits to painting it. I guess that he sees painting as the final step in a finished machine, regardless of the efficiency in the process.
Splendid content and production.
How about less triangulated tube/box section frame and use metal panels to stiffen up the chassis...?
i love the body design its seems just right like a cockpit however that rear end i can just tell is going to be either a problem OR high maintenance
torsional
So exited man long time in the making lets go!
Make a couple of L-profiles from copper plate, and use them between vise jaws and bolt threads. So you do not break threads from the bolt.
excelent.. everythink you do it self...👍👍👍
keep in mind that bump stops will squish like 1 inch when hit, so make sure you added extra gap, before the arm hits what ever object is in the way
I would suggest using castellated nuts and cotter pins on your frame bolts, suspension and axle nuts. If not, at least use safety wire on the critical points.
U should use that seal design on ur rear axles for your lathe
Really would be cool to see you and Vasily builds do a collaboration.
Vasily is amazing, one of my favs
@17:41
He was worried about his hand not realizing how close he came to talking like Pee Wee Herman.
🤣😂🤣😂
When you are done with the CBR 1000rr you should do a crossover episode with Cars and Cameras with their 1000cc Trophy Truck!
The Harbor Freight winches are great winches.
When paint time comes, hes gonna disassemble and assemble that again. Maaan building is a lot of work and tiring. But, its super duper fun.😂
Awesome build! And keep on
Body panels would be dope on this
Looks great .you should build one out of a razor RZR 4x4 like one that was recked ..that would be awesome..but cool your work is amazing and keep up the great videos.
Maybe put a plate for that bump stop to hit. I’d worry the tube might tweak right past that urethane.
I was wondering if you had tried raising and lowering each back wheel with the chains on and the wheels and tires on it? I had thought of this same type of independent rear suspension on a project of mine but assumed i would need a differential to keep it from binding up if it landed more on one side without being able to spin the other tire with the solid axle doing both sides?
Get some dyneema rope for that winch, lot lighter and just nicer to use. also somewhat safer.
Even the cheap generic stuff off ebay is good. got some real cheap stuff and it was strong enough to winch a fully loaded 60 series landcruiser out of some real bad situations, and if you do manage to snap it, its easy as to fix, you can do it in the field with no tools for a quick fix or to do it properly you just need heat-shrink and a lighter/heat source.
after using the rope, I'll never go back to that awful steel cable. plus it does not rust and you can clean it in a bucket of soapy water.
If you're using regular ball bearings in the trailing arm hubs you really need to add a spacer/sleeve over the axle in between the bearings
Add a zerk fitting to the hubs, that way you can easily pack the bearings without having to physically takevthe apart and pack them because that is a pita.
Have you ever considered spray welding your frames? I know you’ve said you wanted to tig them to look super professional and since that’d take too long spray welding might be better since it looks cleaner and is stronger than short circuit and doesn’t take forever like tig, just an idea. Love the buggy builds faint wait for the next grave ninja video!
Best B-Reel to date.. Lucky your fingers and face were clear.. 🤣
Good job it looks good
Love your work! 👍
What size tubing did you use for this build?
Did you add a round pad for the bump stop to land on? Without it, it may squish to one side and fail to work...
damn you really test the duty cycle of your machine... I had a 180 and it would constantly go into limp mode.
you should probably consider making a roll/swaybar since the suspension is very tall and soft to prevent massive bodyroll
I would’ve been tempted to paint it before re-assembly
I was thinking the same thing.
He always disassembles and paints as the final step in the build, partly so that he can test the machine first and partly because that's just how he likes to do things.
18:42 I some how quote that often.
Alot of off road recovery companies use Badlands because they're alot more sturdy and Alot more dependable than any other.
hi ther you are doing a DAMN fine work/fabrication i hope you send it realy good when finish :D
Where you have your pivot point for the rear trailing arms, did you think about using a torsion bar for a bug at all? Maybe another build, but just a question.
The pivot point is also the drive shaft...
@@lennym1273 thanks for the reply
Good work as usual. Did you take into account the smoosh of the bump stop?
brute force, if it ain't workin', it's because you ain't usin' 'nough of it !
Is a Lincoln 140 weld oak a good welder? I’m thinking of getting one to do at home projects ?
wow it's weri good!
I wonder if those chain tensioners will need stop nuts
I think everyone watching at the end was thinking, we know what's happening next with the jack and rod, the look of oh bleep on your face said it all.
Note to self: make sure jack shaft is easy to install and remove.
Paint? or powder coat?