Why don't more people do this...?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2023
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or... you can just buy a mac... 🤷♂
Or a Windows Gaming laptop :D
I guess you could if you enjoy trash
Ewww.
It is not possible to buy a mac. To buy one would mean that you own it - and no one owns a mac. They're just allowed to use it by the true owner - Apple.
Pin of something
Looking at everything, I actually understand why people don't do this.
Between all the CNC, expensive cooling solutions and general impracticality...it makes sense why nobody does this 😂
@@Zyncra cnc isn't at all necessary for this. It's a quality of life thing that if you have you can use, but anything here could be done with any typical tools someone with a home would have. You might need to buy a file.
Nah you could do this on the cheap. He's very restrictive on his intake but you could absolutely fully air cool a drawer-mounted PC with the latest TDP monstrosities by creating any kind of air tunnel. Heck, you could use tubing and dump the hot air outside or in your shower if you wanted. As long as you go with jank there's always a solution. Try to purchase your way to a proper solution and shy of rack mounting you're only going to run into more issues
yea same here and I have built probably a dozen computers or more…
i dont either. It's actually stupid. and a complete waste of time.
"I don't know why more people don't do this?" $3,000 on hardline fittings and parts later... I kid Zac. This looks great! If I had the means and money, I'd do something like this myself.
Just get a better job! ez! /s
Why "kid" this clown??? ALMOST NOBODY HAS THE TIME OR MONEY TO DO ANY OF THIS!!! This CLOWN is as BAD AS LINUS! Which is WHY he is HEMORRHAGING VIEWERS just like LTT!
You forgot, ''buy a CNC router''
Honestly, my first hard line water cooled setup was made out of 1/2" copper pipe from the big box home improvement store. it was cheaper than the hard tubing costs through newegg. Also, I feel better about sweating the pipe than bending some plastic. I also bough a small pump off of amazon. It was usable but it was loud in comparison to a D5 water cooling pump. The most expensive bit is getting a good cpu and gpu block.
yes the $10k CNC. Then a few other woodworking tools for at least $50k.
1. do not use a saw on the plastic tubes, it can cause micro cracks all the way down the tubes. Use a pipe/tubing cutter
2. if you run a tube and use an Apex Fillport you can have a high side fill port right above the res (Alphacool makes them)
3. if you want to spend the time you can build a custom wire harness
yea about 1 ... make sure it's a high quality tube cutter, if it's a cheap one meant for flexi tubes you'll end up with a oval tube if you use it on PETG...also if you use it on acrylic it'll shatter...kinda only use that on PMMA to be safe as it doesn't shatter and is strong enough to resist becoming an oval.
also is everybody okay with just jamming a tube in there? cause there's kinda O rings in the fitting that wile not the only seal is a extra seal you probably don't want to mangle with a sharp corner >.>
step 1 soften the edges with a regular deburr tool, or sand paper, or use a tube specific debur tool on a power drill.
step 2 apply some soapy water to the end to lubricate it and slightly twist upon pushing it in, should go in pretty easy and it won't mangle half - 2/3rds of the O-rings on your fittings >.>
addendum to 1, Alphacool sells a pull saw tube cutting kit, EKWB sells a tiny metal saw tube cutting kit, it's fine to cut tubes if your cracking the tubes from one end to the other your doing something horribly wrong...or working with strait up acrylic which seems annoying.
1. No. If you use a pipe tubing cutter, you still run the risk of cracking the tube. Literally every pipe cutter cuts them by applying pressure against the tube/pipe. I've seen more hardline tubing crack from that than I ever have from a saw.
a fine hacksaw is perfectly fine.
He'll find out when it starts to leak.
Any cutter is bad if not used properly, it's enough to have a small hand saw or whatyacall it, similar to what he used in the video too and apply less pressure while cutting also spraying it with water while cutting helps. You don't rush and yank around with this type of cut and you will be fine.
As a woodworker who recently got into PC building, I've always thought "why don't I just build my own case?" Your channel is so cool! Perfect blend of tech and woodworking, and the production is next level. Very well done!!
When you use solid wood, the wood will likely warp from the temperature differences. Also, a metal case can remove up to 50% of the heat inside the case (for a typical fan-cooled desktop system). You will need a better and more elaborate cooling system.
Back in the days I built two class A monoblock amplifiers out of wood (and electronic components). 150W of heat, when idle, per unit. I started by designing the (passive) cooling system first.
Bruh use aluminum metal sheet,
You've probably thought of this, but when benchmarking, try flipping your fans around to pull cool air in the front of the case, and all of the radiator fans blow out the back, and see if it helps with thermals. This way you don't get radiator-heated air inside the drawer, and bonus: you don't have hot air blowing at you out the front of the PC this summer! You have more than enough fans at the back to keep up with (slightly) warmer air coming from inside the drawer over the big radiator. I'm jealous of the woodworking shop! haha
Needs to modify the front fascia to have more perforation for better airflow. Those tiny slits wont suffice for that radiator.
I'll probably try it at some point, but my logic was that I want the radiator to have access to the coolest air possible. That prioritizes the main heat generating components. Honestly i dont think it would change much in either direction though. My coolant temps barely even get into the 40s when the machine is going full tilt.
@@ZacBuilds Any heat that gets picked up by the rest of the system on its way through the enclosure will be minimal, compared to what the radiator kicks out. There'll be plenty of heat capacity left for the radiators to work and the fans at the front have to do less work exhausting all that heat out of the case. Additionally, you'll make better use of the fans because that shroud on the one side of the radiator is designed to ensure a gap between the fins and the fan blades, so you lessen the dead zone where the fan hub is. When fans push through a radiator, the middle of the fan blocks airflow. Temperature differences are minimal, but the bonus is that by drawing air through the front of the case, you can easily filter that intake and access the filter for easy cleaning.
Not trying to be rude its absolutely WILD he went through all that work just to plumb the heat BACK into the wooden box. Christ. Looks really great though.
@@StuTubed 100% agree with this product would be cool to see benchmarks
your system and setup is one of a kind to see you design your desk, speakers, and everything that is craft made I am a big fan of.
As someone that has done both hard and soft tubing, I prefer soft. That's simply because I'm often getting into the pc to swap out parts and perform maintenance. I find it's a hell of a lot easier to work around soft tubing, being able to move it around, to get to things and apply new paste.
Also the first time I tried to do hard tubing I made it way too overly complex with the angles and bends. Ended up wasting huge swathes of the stuff.
i agree. Hard tube looks nice, but soft tube is way easier - plus, and this my be bs, i feel like the connection on a soft tube is more reliable, at least more user friendly than hard tube.
To me hardline feels like a commitment to never touching the inside of the PC again (at least until you're ready to rip everything out and start a fresh build in that case)
@@MarcusTheDorkus ehh, i wouldn't go that far at all. hardline is a significant upfront commitment, but once all is said and done, assuming you actually take time to plan your routing, its not bad to work around. the connection points around "GOOD" fittings are very reliable and slight bumps and nudges are inconsequential. just be sure everything is seated well before putting pressure back into the system.
Ive had a hardline pc for over 8 years now and i do general maintenance on it every 2-3 months or so, i.e. dusting, cleaning, etc and annual fluid flushes. i also have a very complex routing including 2 same side port rads, cpu, gpu, mobo and ram in a previous iteration (yes i know its stupid but i was a 16 year old with a slightly too well paying job).
It is 100% true that softline has a stronger connection than hardline tubing as the soft fittings actually bite into the tubing locking it down as opposed to a squeeze friction mount, but ive moved my pc without draining it well over a dozen times without any problems to date.
@@bottlecapog8404 I've been building loops since 2003, and hardline is awful. I did it once in 2012 with acrylic tubing and I will never do it again, and I don't understand why so many people would ever build another hardline loop after doing it once. Any polymer based hardline will slowly leech plasticizers into the coolant if you don't stay on top of religiously changing it out, otherwise you get build ups in the turbulent areas of your radiator and blocks which is a nightmare to completely clean. Hardline also drastically lowers the maximum safe coolant temp which means you need more radiator area or more noise to keep coolant temp from exceeding ~40C, and if you don't keep the coolant temp as low as possible the thermal expansion/contraction of the tubing dries out the o-rings in fittings and joints and will eventually cause them to leak. It's nothing but headaches and all for a subjective improvement in aesthetic.
Does not make-a-sense.
Since that misadventure, I will only run EPDM 7/16" ID soft tubing with 1/2" barbs and tube clamps, with a t-line and no reservoir (reservoirs encourage microbial growth and it slows flowrates), and I run automotive coolant at a 10/90 ratio to distilled water. That setup means the only maintenance my loops ever see is an occasional dusting out of the radiator every 8 months or so.. or if coolant temp is up a bit because I forgot to dust it out, otherwise I don't open my loops for several years at a time. Once they're built, I don't want to think about them again. The longest stretch I've ran a sealed loop with automotive coolant and EPDM is 8 years, and when I finally overhauled it, all the components still looked new inside.
Hey Zac, cool build. I also like the fact, that you're talking about problems that you have after finishing the job and also brainstorm possible solutions. Keep on going.
For your internal cable cover panels: Model a shallow recess into the flat front surface that can then accept another material. Metal, carbon fiber, wood, etc. It could be a nice little inlay panel.
Awesome desk if you run into thermal issues later you could improve airflow by cutting vent slots on the side of the cabinet maybe angled to blow toward the back so it doesn't blow directly on you. Alternatively you could cut a vent hole into the lower drawer space and corresponding hole in the back panel allowing air to flow through and out the back.
This has to be one of the best in desk pc designs i've seen so far. Didn't see the video from 2 years ago but the upgrades made it *chef's kiss* loved the bulkhead for the transition between hard to soft tube. I'm in no way a expert but yeah you may want to be a tad careful with the soft tube moving not sure if they are built to the same spec automotive tubing or even hydraulic line that is made to bend a lot so adding a support structure maybe a good idea, also would probably help extend the life of the quick disconnects, not sure what standard they are built to.
Great video. Watercooling your components does not void your hardware warranty unless you break it during the disassembly or reassembly process though 👍
@@danstiurca7963 Those stickers are not legit. Removing or damaging that sticker cannot and does not void your warranty in the United States-It is against the law for a company to enforce this.
I've noticed he says this when he opens up his electronics. Not sure if it's just a joke.
@@danstiurca7963 It does make sense, you are allowed to open and tinker around with anything you purchase. You own it. That being said, if you damage it, the company is very unlikely to repair it for you. They can see what is accidental damage and what is a warranty defect.
@@danstiurca7963it makes sense cause its working. on people like you. who dont know the law and that the sticker is unenforceable and you can sue them and easily win. However they will likely cave and fulfill the warranty before that happens. and no no warranty is void if the sticker is tampered with in any way unless what you did actually did cause it to break. Which THAT makes sense.
the sticker is completely legal. they can (for some reason) put it there to scare you. they cannot however void your warranty on the grounds "he tampered with the sticker therefore warranty void" as it is not a valid legal argument that a court will uphold.
Great build. Really love the clean aesthetic and look of the system as a whole. I would caution bending the 12vhp connector to the graphics card. If not fully seated the connector can be a major issue whether its the Nvidia adapter variant or a direct line to the PSU like yours. They have melted and burned up routinely when first released and people weren't aware of the cable limitations. Cable mod makes a 90 degree adapter that solves the problem though and looks way cleaner. Being so close to the edge of the sled, it wouldn't be a bad 40 dollar investment to keep that cable from getting pinched and possibly causing a very bad, 450 watt fire hazard.
Thanks for the concern! I've seen all of those videos so I was pretty cautious when using the 12vhp connector. The bend isn't that severe coming off the GPU and I made sure it was in the nice and tight.
@@ZacBuilds you could actually use a Riser Cable for the GPU that way you can place the GPU however you like (maybe even as a Cable cover just in case your 3D printed cable cover doesnt take cover from friendly fire) anyways awsome build i hope for more!
i often wonder how to do this and its nice to see someone go the distance. looks really cool, great work.
Just some advice: orientate your fans so they're pulling air through the radiator, rather than pushing, as they currently are. Having your fans pull air makes maintanance much easier, as you don't have to take the fans off to clean the radiator. Either that, or get a dust filter.
I was going to post same thing...except add the front fans need to be reversed too. As of video this system will be pushing the hot air from rad into PC space...then front fans will be pulling the hot air out and blasting it at user.
but then arent you pulling some warm or hot air through the rad?
@@nednerB107 Not if he installs the fans on the desk side. If he just flipped them, then the bigger issue would be lack of airflow, not heat.
if possible do a push pull config for more performance and you can keep the rpms on the fans lower
and youre blowing youre now warm air over your pc, turn the fans around...
Great job. Glad you chose to use frosted hard line tubes, they look beautiful!
You need a grounding wire to connect to one of the standoffs for esd. Cases normally do this automatically by connecting to the screw of the power supply.
I don't believe that is part of the modern day ATX standard. It was in the old AT and baby AT stardards though. I've used many a ATX motherboard on top of a cardboard box, none of them have complained.
@@sparkyenergia The mounting screws (from the case to the mobo) are the Ground. HOWEVER I do agree that as long as you do not have a "peak" in your current (usually after an outage) you'll be fine.
This is absolutely epic, thanks for sharing. I am also exceptionally jealous of your workshop, assume this is part of your work? New to the channel definitely going to check out more of your content.
i love this! nearly every piece of furniture in my place... i made. those heavy duty, full extension drawer slides are the best! i have them everywhere. my computer desk, monitor mount, keyboard shelf & computers are all wall mounted & each piece is it's own module that can be easily lifted off for service or upgrade. someday when i grow up [that's a joke], i'd like to have a shop as spacious as yours!
If you wanted to clean up the fan setup, I'd recommend some of the Lian Li Uni fans. I think you'd basically need 3 cables for all 9 of your fans.
yep you can even get it to only 1 cable for all 9 with the v2
That's an expensive solution for something better cable routing can acheive for next to nothing. 11 lian li fans will cost $350 while something like decent arctics will be barely over $70. An extra $280 to get rid of cables that will never be seen has a debatable cost/benefit.
@@jmwilsoNDBuilding a computer into a desk with $300 worth of materials, $500 in watercooling parts, and $4000+ in tools also has little to no tangible benefit over spending $200 on a case and air cooler (total), but here we are.
@@tyrdchaos All of those compnents you mentioned added value. There's value in the pc and loop components as they contribute to things like his video editing in a way that adds productivity and more $, there's value in the materials of the desk as it's a more reliable and lasting piece of furniture as well as a video opportunity. His tools do the same thing. Your lian li fans provide 0 extra value.
@@jmwilsoND and building the PC into a desk also provides zero value over using a case. I just don't get your point. The "value" you talk about is subjective and has no objective basis. It seems to me you have little to no experience buidling a computer. The number of cables you have to manage can be frustrating if there are a lot, especially when you have to do maintenance, such as cleaning the rad, cleaning the fans, replacing fans, etc.
So the value resides in ease of maintenace and management. Saying something provides no value when the total cost of that thing is literally less than 15% of the overall cost of the build. He spent $1500 on a graphics card that provides almost no value over a 4070 TI (half the price). Like, your takes seem to make no sense in comparison to the overall build. And again, I stated the value, which is to clean the literal rats nest of cables zip tied to the side of the radiator.
The value of this build is around hiding the PC and making the whole setup look clean. There is no actual value in the build outside of that. The temps are higher than they would be a similarly configured computer case.
so cool when carpenter guy and computer nerd come together
This was awesome, man! Great to see you finally watercool that rig of yours!
Awesome job bro...Keep up the good work, people can learn so much from you, thanks.
I use a pipe cutter for tubes. Primochill also do a deburring tool for drills that is super useful! Love the video btw.
Neat! I had no idea, I'll pick one of those up for my water cooling build
pipe cutters will work on PETG tubes but will shatter acrylic, so, use where it makes sense :)
Oh and anyone using PETG should be burned at the stake, this thing is for plastic bottles :P
Amazing build, just noticed you may be new to water cooling, just a heads-up on a few things. You will need to clean your water cooling loop every year or so and have some kind of bacteria inhibitor in your loop to prevent algae and other bacteria from growing in your loop. You can also install a drain port at the lowest part of your loop to make it easier to drain your loop in the future. You could also have a flow indicator in your loop to see if the pump is working and coolant is flowing in your loop as you went with frosted hard tube. Must say though, that desk does look amazing, and maybe you could try relocating the power button to a small whiteboard piece of wood that you could place on your desk to turn on your PC, almost like the start button in a car, then you don't need to open the PC drawer all the time, just a suggestion though. Love your videos, waiting impatiently for the next one.
Thank you! I appreciate the info I'll definitely keep that stuff in mind. I love the idea of a start button up top, but it would have to be something custom. Honestly I rarely ever use the power button. Just wiggle the mouse and it boots up. Still I like the idea.
You don't have to clean the loop every year, especially not with a hardline build. Just use a ethylene glycol based coolant (assuming the tube isn't PETG). I have a custom loop that hasn't been apart in 6-7 years and has never been fully cleaned and runs opaque dye, and it still works 100% fine. Cools nearly as well as it did day 1 once I clean the dust out of the radiators.
It has had the fluid changed 2-3x simply due to the dye fading (about every 2 years), but that was simply via the method of opening the drain slightly and cycling through 6-7 gallons of distilled then adding new dye, never taking anything apart or even draining/re-bleeding it.
Cleaning is really only needed if you use soft tubing as the plasticizer leeches out over time and gums up the blocks. Dye doesn't do this really, especially not clear dyes, it gets blamed for plasticizers problems. It can also be needed if you let the system run with just pure distilled and heat up for a long period of time, THEN it will grow shit in it, but if you use proper coolant from day 1 this won't happen.
@@JathraDH Does putting a silver coil in the reservoir still work if you're using regular distilled water? That's how it was when I water cooled my PCs and never had a buildup problem (I didn't use hardline tubing though)
@@ccricers Silver kill coils are really not advised as biocide because they completely screw your galvanic balance.
For metals in contact with any type of electrically conductive fluid you really ideally don't want more than a 0.15 galvanic spread, the higher the spread the more the galvanic anode (highest anodic index metal) will corrode and deposit itself onto the rest of the loop.
This is why the entire industry moved away from aluminum blocks because it has a galvanic index of 0.95 making it basically the highest metal in the loop and what gets corroded first, the blocks were literally getting destroyed by this.
Silver has a index of 0.15 making it basically the low point of your spread, but most components in a loop these days are nickel (0.30) copper (0.35) and brass (0.40-0.45).
As you can see, if you stick with only nickel/copper/brass you have a spread of 0.30 > 0.45 keeping it within the 0.15 range.
If you throw silver in there however then your spread is 0.15 > 0.45 which is a 0.3 range and it will quickly corrode the highest metal without corrosion inhibitor.
However, there is one other metal in your loop which is almost always overlooked, and that's tin/lead from the solder in your radiators. Tin is 0.65 and lead is 0.70.
So realistically even with nickel/copper/brass you are looking more at a 0.3 -> 0.7 spread of 0.4, but with silver in the mix it gets far worse being 0.15 -> 0.7 0.55 spread which is quite bad.
On top of this the anodic metal is literally the thing holding your radiators together and keeping it from leaking.
This is why you really WANT to use ethylene glycol because it is a strong corrosion inhibitor and also a good biocide, well its bio-neutral but it still prevents growth.
We have a GIANT industry in the world which deals specifically with water cooling car engines, and they all use radiator fluid which is literally just ethylene glycol. They probably know what the hell they are doing.
People who refuse to use it because its slightly poorer heat capacity/transfer really are just shooting themselves in the foot, its used world wide in radiator systems for a reason.
I always see this comment for custom loops. My Corsair AIO has been going for 10 years on my 2600k at 4.5ghz and zero issue. Do the AIO get out of needing maintenance in some way? Could you just get a holder to put an AIO onto a GPU and then never need to clean either loop?
I, very much, LOVED the build.. You earned my subscription.. I as a retired master carpenter & computer tech, love the combo of tech and woodcraft..
Also something you might want to consider, since you added nice RGB Lighting, why not on the inside wall of the desk, cut out an add a window, so it can be on display.. That in itself would be an awesome build..
Thank you for sharing..
Very cool! I enjoy your mix of woodworking and tech.
As a real viewer, I can confirm I like it when Zac goes HARD
In what sense?
@@smashyrashy It is an adult joke
That's the best kind of joke 😀
"I don't understand why more people don't do this", he says, as he installs $1000+ worth of water cooling onto a $1500 PC. Gee, I wonder why. Nevermind the amount of work it takes to do this, the amount of work to troubleshoot a custom water loop, or how much harder it is to perform maintenance on a system with rigid tubing.
The GPU and CPU by themselves is roughly 1,800$ USD, + Motherboard - 2,100$ + DDR5 - 2,250 + SSD - 2,500 + 850/1000w PSU = (approximated) 26 / 2,700$ BEFORE all of the water cooling stuff. If you're a PC enthusiast like myself, like Zac and like many many other hardworking people; chances are you enjoy the build process, the equipment itself and the end result enough to put the effort in. If you don't care or don't enjoy it, then don't build PCs. 🤷 If you want something in your system bad enough and you're genuinely passionate about the hobby and your gear, you'll save money to make things happen, regardless of how long it may take you. Zac's just fortunate he gets to do things like this for a living.
I would say most expensive part of the build was woodwork.
Great video as always! I've had 2 water pumps die on me. Just be aware that if your pump ever dies (and it will), you'll need to drain the system again, and it usually happens at a time when you the your PC the most.
Funny I've yet to have one die on me personally and only 1 for any client and that's over decades
Hell I have one that's been running 24/7 for over 14 years now (with only a very few stops for power issues or upgrades of that sys)
Amazing build mate. One thing id advise for complete ease of access, is flipping the fans on the 1080 rafiator. At the moment, all the dust will sit between the fans and rafiator surface, but flipping the fans means the dust will sit on the opposite side of the radiator, meaning a quick vaccuum with a soft attachment, removes months and months of dust build up in literally 30 seconds. I found this exact situation when i built my pc and now in my 011 dynamic, where i have my corsair QL120 fans intaking on the motherboard tray in front of the 360mm radiator, i just remove the solid side panel and quickly hoover the radiator and all dust is removed :)😊
Very nice build! Beautiful integration into the desk.
I loved this video, since it really reminded me about my first experience with watercooling. Would be nice to see you do a collab with LinusTechTips and show when how to properly make a nice wooden desk with some integrated stuff. Theirs are always so janky and "low" craftsmanship.
I'd love to work with them, but I don't think they'd give me the time of day 😂
Awesome! you earned a subscriber. I built my own custom PC as well, it is a desktop unit and I learned so much doing it. Didn't have all of the tools I needed, but I think it came out alright. Awesome work and a great performing PC!
loved that. Best bit was all the leaks at the end, you could have tested it using a air pressure gauge leak tester back at the workshop. Personally i do what you did and hope for the best lol.
Would be cool if places like Home Depot or Lowe's has a workshop area that people that don't have a workshop can use/rent.
See if there is a makers pace near you!
One suggestion I'd make is to ground the motherboard to the power supply by running a wire from the motherboard standoff to the shell of the power supply. In a regular PC case, the motherboard would ground through the metal case to the power supply and then out through the power supply cable, but in wooden PC case or frame that doesn't happen.
I love this idea. Will definitely implement.
*DON"T*
There are ALREADY ground wires from the power supply to the motherboard.
You WILL create a ground loop and PROBABLY MORE ISSUES with your bad idea.
all modern cases are painted or coated with something preventing electrical current passing through the screws they are not made out of metal for grounding purposes they are made out of metal for other reasons like rigidity cost of material thickness of material while still being rigid etc.
@@bricefleckenstein9666 GROUND LOOPS are NOT WHAT YOU THINK THEY ARE, they are mainly a problem with ANALOG AUDIO, ANTENNA, SIGNAL WIRES, and very infrequently AC POWER - but they are almost never a problem in low-voltage DC POWER.
Personally I would ground the PSU with the Mobo simply because both are designed and anticipating to be grounded to each other.
@@cannaroe1213 If you look carefully, that MB has isolation on the screw holes so it doesn't actually connect to the case.
And since the PSU mount HOLES already connect it to the case, why be redundant?
BTW - Ground Loops can happen in ANY electrical/electronic device with any sort of a feedback loop, modern power supplies often have "sense" wires as part of the ATX connector to extend the voltage regulation outside of the case of the PSU itself.
Thus possibility of a ground loop when you ground at multiple points.
I use rack-mount server cases.
Wire management - pvc slotted duct comes in various colors, depth/width and slot sizes - panduit is a good brand.
The cables can enter and exit via the slots while the cover hides all the mess. Used in electrical wiring control panels and the larger variant in data cabling patch panels.
Look up "Umbilical Cable Management" / "Cable-Snake Cube" regarding your wire chain.
Nice build. You should mount a power button on the underside of the desk with some slack on the wire so you don't need to open the drawer to turn the computer on. For the GPU, you could get a vertical mounting bracket, which would also hide a lot of that wiring.
4:14: "I don't understand why more people don't do this"
Me: $$$$
I can say that one nice thing about water cooling is that there's a decent chunk of it that is arguably a one-time expense. For example, you don't usually have any reason to replace radiators or pumps between builds. Of course, large changes in the build parameters (e.g., the case) can dictate whether that's necessary. Albeit, that may also suggest going with parts that have a bit better compatibility. An example of that is if your larger case says it can fit a 420mm radiator (3x140mm), consider going with a 360mm (3x120mm) instead. It will likely have worse performance, but it should be more compatible with other cases. CPU blocks can often be used between different sockets, but they may require different mounting hardware (e.g., Intel LGA-115x blocks usually require some minor accessories to support LGA-1700). Unfortunately, GPU water blocks tend to be a one-and-done as blocks are rarely compatible between dissimilar GPUs.
Although, even with all of that, I don't water cool all of my computers. Why not? It isn't the cost... it's the hassle. I use water cooling to build very quiet computers and it isn't uncommon to run into situations where you can install your parts, but the layout just doesn't allow for great tubing runs. Recently, I actually switched one computer from water back to air, and let me tell you... it was *NICE* to have such an easy build for once. I do kind of enjoy the puzzle aspect of figuring out how to manage a good water-cooled build, but there are times where I just have too much other things to do to spend it trying to get a build setup.
Oh, and one other thing... if you aren't as careful about the layout, you can end up looking to spend extra money on angled adapters for your fittings. One goal that I've had recently is to avoid the glut of angled adapters that I used to use and just use longer runs... or finally stop wimping out and use hardline tubing. 😋
Amazing project and execution! Good job!
Thank you!
Man, awesome build. It is something that I would love to build myself. The only thing I would change for now is that air holes in the wood. I would open it more to look like a wood mesh to improve airflow. But its awesome the way it is already. Congratulations.
I really love your work. I highly recommend that you basically create an aluminum "case" that acts as a buffer between your computer and the wood. This will reduce the interference your computer creates with your wifi access point, and other electronics in your house. (nothing to do with heat.)
When you are doing upgrades it would be fun to see you move the radiator somewhere remote to dump the waste heat into something useful, or just outside when you don't want it heating up your room
Water cooling isn't heating up his room any more than air cooling. So there is no need to dump the air outside the room.
Just google LTT swimming pool 😅
regarding the cable management what you want to try is either some cablemod or even better make some custom cables yourself. The advantage is that you can get the length you need to root your cables exactly where you want and as flat as you need (aka through some grooves on the back of the motherboard panel. The watercooling is obviously the only reasonable choice for such a build. Good job.
best desk pc ive seen so far! thing is amazing!
DONT EVER DO THAT AGAIN
WHAT YOU DID at 21:41 wiggiling the GPU
DONT DONT DONT !!!! YOU CAN SHORT IT AND KILL IT TO THE POINT OF NO RETURN !!
( NEVER wiggle any plugged and powered component EVER EVER )
# I AM speaking from experience.
As for the the GPU sagging, you should fix it RIGHT NOW, you will end up bending something due to the weight + gravity and fuck knows what will die due to that.
introducing water to several hundred dollars or thousands of electronics just goes against conventional wisdom.
Expensive electronics have been water cooled for many decades. I expect all high performance/high dollar electronics to be water cooled if possible.
@@CraigOpie With all that sad, it still goes against conventional wisdom.
Water cooling has been a safe and reliable go to for pc builders for a long time. I still go with air cooling because it has better gpu temperatures for gaming but if I was building a heavy cpu work machine I'd go with liquid
Conventional wisdom says buy pre-built PC. Which is what I'd recommend. And I build my PCs as a hobby. Very, very expensive hobby.
@@Shini1984 huh?
Beautiful computer you assembled there. Man, those temps are amazing.
love how you mixed some woodworking with pc building super cool
Spectacular design and workmanship. I love it!
Thanks man!
Awesome build. For your next attempt at a custom loop, you should consider pressure testing the system eliminate the risk of fluid/coolant leaking over your components. Just a thought. Again, awesome job.
You probably already thought of this and chose not to, but if you moved the power button to another location you wouldn't have to worry about the constant opening and closing with the wires. Sick project, new subscriber now!
And I thought this couldn't get any better. Love this. GG.
Great job! Great looking piece of work you done there!
Really clever idea to give more space. Well done. I could be the owner of a tiny home soon. So these ideas may help with a recreational workstation and occasional gaming rig.
18:50 AMEN! They also place the PC case on the desk, so it may glow more than the display next to it.
As a trim carpenter I cut off PVC with a pull saw all the time. On the drill press. Get yourself a drill press clamp for stabilizing those smaller pieces.
Nice job! Take my like. Edge banding makes such a HUGE difference and people don't realize how easy it is done and it's not that expensive. I screwed up assembling a cabinet and left the unfinished edge to the front (and I had used wood glue so disassembling it was impossible. Just a strip of edge band, some stain and utility knife to trim and it looks perfect.
Very nice build. On the cable management subject, especially for the fans on your radiator, I'd look into fans that link together. Lian Li has a bunch of models at this point, as they were first to market, but there are a bunch of brands that do it now. And dropping from 9/18 cables to 3/6 is a huge improvement in cable management annoyances. And since they use a controller box, you could have that mounted in the back near your radiator and have a single cable to manage to your motherboard. You could also wire your front fans with the same type of fans, reducing the cables from the front as well.
That setup is insane!!
Awesome project, loved your idea, but if you have suficient space, i would consider moving the fans to the interior pulling air from the case ( and the other drawer on the side) through the radiator, so in the outsite you have only a plain surface that would be easier to clean
Thats a beautiful melding of tech and woodworking.
this is some genius work here
This is insanely nice.
Love your setup, I wish I could do the same to my laptop, it runs even hotter, lol. Also, that mic setup is pretty awesome! Anker seems to fly under the radar compared to other brands and I'm not sure why, because their audio products are great! I'm wearing my Liberty Air II Pros right now! (not paid to say that, I really do recommend their stuff tho)
I like raw plywood edges.
I also use fans that daisy chain to make cable management easier
Bro that is badass 😊 love your design
I sat through the entire ad spot and well thats only happened once before with the Mars Shark Speaker i need get me one of these thank you for actually having ad spots worth seeing and biying instead of scam nobility titles or ball trimmers 🙏
You can leak test the loop with an air pressure pump btw. EK sells one. It’s a bit easier to manage.
Hi Zac, love your videos! I also bult my own pc desk with the buil inside the drawer. My build is full ATX though and I rotated the mobo 90 degrees so I have the connections at the top, no gpu sag since it basically hangs vertically from the top and even if it's air cooled it doesn't overheat because the front fans push fresh air directly into its fans.
Luv the wooden frame at the back.
Been watercooling since 1998. we had to make our own blocks from 2"copper endcaps., buy liang pups from industrial supply, and copper Honda accord heater cores for 120mmx2 radiators. 1998 ypung Pawan. I remember EK posting their VERY first block design ... We also had triple stage phase change coolers in 2003 ish.
I've always liked my PCs out of sight. In one home office, I kept my PC towers in a closet, and drilled a hole through the wall to run the cabling over to my desk. I ran a power button all the way over to the desk as well and it was awesome. Totally silent and a super clean setup as I hid all the wiring. Then when I moved and no longer had the closet, I build the PC into the desk itself. NOTHING as complicated as your setup, but honestly it doesn't need to be. Yours is an extreme setup. Mine, was hidden behind a door- a super clean look. When you opened the door, the motherboard was mounted to the side walls of the interior desk. I then literally hung the SSDs and made a spot for the PSU. I had holes drilled in the back for vents. I always used it with the door closed and the PC was silent and completely out of sight. I only gave it up when I realized I didn't need even that much of a PC anymore. (I now rock a two Mini PCs and a Mac Mini, along with my laptops, all mounted under the desk.)
i gotta say that sponsor spot, was the first one i actually rewound to check out instead of trying to skip, once i saw the case you charge them in. lol cool stuff!
that radiator panel is totally overkill :D i love it.
Btw regarding the fans on your radiator panel. There are other brand of fans which connect together without excess wires. So it vastly reduces the wires your have there.
I am stunned by this video. It makes me feel like I am a kindergartner. Even reading the comments below makes me feel like I do not know anything. I looked at all of your previous videos and I did not see any about you specifically. What is your background ? It appears to me that you are an engineer, builder, craftsman and so many other things. How did you come to do all of these things ? What made you decide to make a youtube channel ? This was very impressive to me. Beautiful work. You have another subscriber for life my friend. Looking forward to the next video and also slowly going through all of your previous videos.
I don't do any woodworking, but am addicted to your builds.
I love diy for all. Nice work!
this was a cool build. I wonder if you put the power switch and front iso under the desk would that help instead of using a track. I really love the over all look of your build.
A pull saw sounds smart! I used a band saw to cut my hard tubing and it wasn't too clean and def needed cleanup after.
Absolutely awesome. Never seen anything like this. Hands down the coolest PC build ive seen yet.
This is interesting: I had some time ago thought about using drawer slides for a couple of ideas, mounted side-by-side horizontally (or "floor-mounted"). But I then considered that the bearings were not designed to be used in that orientation.
It seems you have done just that, which makes me reconsider provided weight is not an issue.
This is a Really Cool Project.
Leak testing individual components before building out the loop is also a very good idea. You would have found your pinched O-ring in the res without risking additional liquid close by the exposed computer equipment. Still, I absolutely love the hard tubes. I never went down that path, I was content to just stick with soft flexible tube.
It's always comforting to hear Canadian raising in TH-cam videos
This is my first time seeing your channel and I subscribed immediately. I am not much of a gamer (Just one game on Steam, plus Mario Kart on Project 64), but I love neat hardware and this is neat hardware! When I saw all those fans, I was concerned about noise, but you reported on that, and it is super quiet! Well done.
Damn you got some good kit. Most of us can just watch and dream of such a "Cool" build.
Exelent project and execution. Love it!
If you mount the powerswitch and some additional USB connectors to a popp out on your desk, you dont even have to open the drawer once (except maybe for cleaning the system once a year).
If you want to power it on, popp the thing up, press the button push it down afterwards. If you need to connect your phone or any other temporary usb device popp it up and plug it in.
Really like the design, I've been wanting to do something similar for a long while when i get the money to finally build my first pc but a lot has to fall into place before i can get to the point of being able to build my pc
Holy radiator from cooling heaven!
For future projects there are pressure gateges you can us to test for leakes befor putting any liquit into the loop
Well, I pretty much have done something very similar, but without spending hours of time. I also have a enclosed desk cabinet, but I put a full Coolermaster tower inside it. I converted a 3090 to water cooling, got simple EKWB flex tube and ran it out the back of the case and the back of the cabinet to an external Koolance all in one unit (radiator, pump and fan). I did cut two holes in the front of cabinet for 120mm fans and a big exhaust 140mm in the back pushing hot air out. CPU has a 3 fan radiator water cooled mounted to top of coolermaster case. CPU's are not too bad with heat in the cabinet....it is the GPU's that are nasty hot.
What I did on an old mod was reuse dust filter mesh from a laptop to make it look more clean and actually serve as a dust filter. Goes a long way for little mods.
well done, bud i love the build.
Working with wood is so cool! You inspire me, now i want to build things with wood XD
You could also use a pressure test kit.. saves using any paper towel and locate a leak without expensive replacement of parts.
Another good idea to leak test prior to powering on the computer is to run an external power supply only to the pump, with just a paper clip you can short the 2 pins on the PSU you normally short with the power signal on the motherboard from your power button. I run 24 hours usually on the pump alone before powering on the computer. This also lets air bubbles out of the loop so you can bleed and top off