Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I learned a lot from it. I'm glad you addressed such things as blade drift, corner cutting techniques and blade tension. These are all things that bedevil beginners.
I really enjoyed this video just now. Not only does your expertise in scroll sawing shine, but also your teaching skills, especially the clarity in your explanations. Thanks so much!!
Thank you. Your comment is much appreciated! You may find other projects of interest on my channel. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
I have zero experience with Proxxon. I have not seen one. Briefly looking at their website I get the impression they are geared toward miniature work and smaller machines. Previously I had a couple of Delta scroll saws, which were adequate. Now I have a 16” Excalibur scroll saw and I am very impressed with the solidness, quality construction and performance. I strongly recommend a machine that uses standard 5” plain end blades. Stay away from pin type (cross pin) blades. I hope that helps.
The blade needs to be square to the table and as tight as possible without breaking. If it is too loose it will deflect all over the place. If you push too hard it will get hot, burn the wood and/or break. You may screw up a few pieces before you get the tension and feed rate correct. Try different blades. Different people have success with different blades. Try different saw speeds. Practice makes perfect. Wrap it with packing tape - you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes. Have fun!
Wow Ronald this is stunning wouldn't have believed you could make something like this if I hadn't seen it for myself, your video is very inspirational thank you
I started making a chess set tonight that are very similar to what you are doing here. It is so satisfying popping out the finished product out of the middle.
Thanks for this excellent video. Also thanks for the little written advices, they are very helpful. For me as a beginner it was just also a lesson. Thank you.
Beautiful workmanship, and an excellent example of both art, and Patience! The obvious choice is Basswood as you point out, and I think that is what I would use when I try these, (hang the expense :) Thanks for sharing this.
Awesome video!! I just made my first floating media stand last weekend and finally stained it today and now you made me want to buy a scroll saw and do some more woodworking! Thank you
Thanks for the info! I made 1 and the blade wasn't square, so it crumbled when I tried to pull it out. I just made another with the adjustments and your other advice, it came out really good! Thanks again.
A good saw certainly helps but I started doing these on a relatively inexpensive Delta scroll saw. An on/off dead man floor foot switch has also helped a lot so I can stop cutting whenever I want. Go to my video on the 3D Reindeer Ornament and follow the link in the description for the pattern. Enlarge it a bit bigger to begin with … good practice. Thanks for watching.
I reassembled the leavings of a rook chess piece I made and have been slowly filling it with left over epoxy. With any luck ill have a multicolored epoxy replica of the original.
Personally I have never needed anything deeper than 16 inch. They are all the same saw... just different depths. The 20 and 30 inch models probably have better balance on the workbench or worktable due to the much larger and heavier scroll saw table. I have mine fastened to the workbench.
Hello Ronald. Thank you for this informative and creative video on scrolling. Through the law of permutation I suppose the possibilitie are just about endless. The patterns you used are quite delicate, which is nice because it's always interesting when there's a lot less wood in the end than there was at the start ! Nice volume too when working "in the square", just like working in the round in carving. I enjoyed your site. All the best. P.s. mine's a Hegner - excellent.
First, the blade needs to be square with the table. The wood blank is not very wide, so making the inside cuts first helps to hold the pattern square to the saw blade. Then, after making the first outside cut on one side, the blank is retaped to try to hold everything square while the other outside cut is made. Very important to let the blade do the cutting and allow the action of the teeth to clear the sawdust... do not push the blank trying to speed up the process. Probably the best lesson in doing all of this is your first few attempts when the cutting process will possibly result in the blade wandering and spoiling the ornament. Then the whole thing will become quite clear. Have fun. Mistakes are part of the learning process. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going! Ron
Thank you. Helps a lot. Sugestion: Would be very interesting and useful if you can build up a kind of table, showing your experience about type of blade versus type of material versus speed. And keep up the good work. Best regards, Hamilton
Information on the pattern book by Diana Thompson is given in the first 5 seconds of the video. Do a Google search to find the availability in your area.
The pattern book by Diana Thompson is detailed in the first 5 seconds of the video and also listed in the video description. Thanks for watching! Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
Ron Walters, how do you feel bout the EX-16? Is it sufficient for your needs or would the 20" model be superior? Does the Ex-16 have all the features of the EX-20 & EX-30? Thank you
I want this pattern so bad, I've got the wood (plenty of it) but I don't have the cash to buy the book and I can't find it at the library. This would be a great Christmas gift I could make for the family.
Polyurethane with a small brush. May want to thin the polyurethane a little and plan on at least 2 maybe 3 coats. Sand off the roughness (gently) between coats.
just starting out and could only find poplar in a perfect square blank. never cut on hardwoods before any tips on how to not take 3 days to make an ornament?
It will be difficult to find suitable square stock at a lumber yard and if it is not perfectly square the 3D cut will not work. The wood needs free of knots and cracks. After wrapping with packing tape and drilling holes, it should only take 15 or 20 minutes to cut the first one. Then there is some sanding required. Make sure the saw blade is square to the table. Have fun!
If it took that long to cut one hole you were probably also burning the wood and burning the blade. Wrap the wood with a couple layers clear packing tape (it lubricates the blade). The correct blade helps and a single blade should last several ornaments. Pine can be used or sugar pine. Basswood cuts very easy but is expensive. Do not force the blade, let the blade do the cutting. I do not know where you live. Use the blade recommended in the video. Also good are Scroll Reverse and Ultra Reverse from Flying Dutchman scroll saw blades. mikesworkshop.com/collections/blades After some practice it should take 20 minutes to cut out the entire ornament.
Never... they do not produce a smooth edge. Did you watch the video? Around 2:10 I show what blade I am using. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron
vtxrider1800r I have not tried Poplar. Some say Poplar (depending on what is being sold) may be softer than pine. Basswood cuts nicely but it is expensive. I have had good results with a clear, straight grain, piece of pine 2x4 with no sap. Whatever you cut, be sure to wrap it with clear packing tape which will make the cutting easier (it lubricates the blade).
Ronald Walters I've been using poplar for one dimensional scroll work and had good luck with it. Cuts easier and pretty cheap. a 1 1/2 square by 3 feet is $5 at the big at HD. I've been using the tape and it does what you said. They are different fun to make.
Ron I will have to give this a try for sure. I have the 21" Excalibur and love it. Is there anywhere in Canada you can buy Flying Dutchman Blades? Very nice work.
hi im a total newbe to scroll saw ilove the chrismas orniments and have tried to make them without much success .no mater what blade i use or how gentle i am the blade always drifts of so the bottom is different from the top. any advice would be appreciated thank you
Pretty much everything you need to know is shown in these videos: Christmas 3D Reindeer Ornament - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw Christmas 3D Wood Ornaments - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw Christmas 3D Gingerbread Man Wood Ornament - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw And even this one will give you more information about cutting on a scroll saw: Cutting Wood Gear & Clock Wheel Teeth The wood block needs to be absolutely square. The scroll saw table must be absolutely square to the blade. A sloppy (loose) or worn out scroll saw is not going to give good results. Your choice of wood can make a difference. Pine, with straight grain and no knots or splits, is fairly soft. Basswood is much easier to cut but is expensive. Oak or other hardwoods is probably a poor choice. There can be pieces of wood with hidden flaws, cracks or sap pockets that can spoil your project. The pattern must be attached square to the wood blank. Wrap the entire blank with two layers of packing tape... the glue on the tape lubricates the saw blade. Check a practice cut with a small square. If the face of the cut is not square to the top and bottom faces you need to find the problem. Keep the blade exactly in (or on) the pattern line. If you wander back and forth from the line, it will spoil your project. Let the blade do the cutting. The blade must be given time to clear the sawdust from the cut. If you force the blade too quickly, sawdust packs up in the cut the can (and will) overheat the blade and force the saw blade off track and will spoil your project. A dull blade will overheat. Overheating usually changes the color of the blade... will soften the metal and will lead to the blade bending out of shape and/or breaking... spoiling your project. Saw blade tension is important and is something you will just need to learn by doing. It is a find line between a blade being tight enough and too tight. Too tight and it can break prematurely. Too loose and the blade can wander and spoil your project. Keep fingers away from the blade and always be prepared for the blade to break. A broken blade can grab the blank and slam it up and down on the scroll saw table and can spoil your project. I usually show tips and tricks and what blade are being used throughout the videos so pay attention. The correct blade to use is a matter of trial and error and finding one that works for you. If your saw has variable speeds, try slowing it down Doubtful someone will get it right in the first couple of tries. Practice makes perfect. Keep trying and have fun! Thanks for watching! Ron
Jonas4747 I looked around and could not find one of these patterns. I think the wood for these were 1-1/2" square. The size can vary with the different patterns so it would be best to wait until you get the book and after you make photocopies of the patterns (some copy machines can distort dimensions). Have fun!
Ich kann bei Laubsägearbeiten schauen wo ich will, überall wird 20-30 mm Holz ge- schnitten wie Balsa. Was ist das für ein Holz? und wo ist es in Deutschland er hältlich? Kann mir jemand helfen? Ich wäre froh und dankbar.
Philippos Constantinou Depends on your experience tightening the blade, the quality of the blade and some on luck. Some blades may last 2 or 3 ornaments. Some only last one ornament. Some blades break in the first minute. But generally the blades will last longer than you may expect. You want to replace a blade if it starts cutting too slow or if it gets blue from the heat - replace it before it breaks as breaking in the middle of a cut could break the ornament.
This information was clearly given @ 2:06 to 2:16 in the video. Scroll Reverse FD-SR No. 5 Another good blade Ultra Reverse FD-UR No. 5 from Flying Dutchman Scroll Saw Blades - Google it.
For the patterns? Any stick glue or spray adhesive. Then wrap the whole thing in clear packing tape. The tape adhesive lubricates the blade and makes cutting easier.
If anyone could answer this , it would be much appreciated. Their was a ornament I believe the same woman the gentlemen mentioned in this video. But one ornament was made from cutting it out of a block but your ornament fits in a two sided box from the same block you cutter the ornament out of. . The box protects the ornament.
You could do that with one of these ornaments. The "scrap" sides are generally pretty flimsy and have packing tape all over them but you could save them for that. I prefer having a dedicated sturdy box just for these ornaments and you can always wrap them with the smaller bubble wrap or soft foam packing material. Thanks for watching. Ron
OK... I am showing you the box you refer to @ 4:00 and @ 4:10 . Sometimes if you are lucky the ornament can be removed easily. Then I usually break apart the box @ 5:15 and make additional "flat ornaments" by sanding the waste flat. But then as shown @ 9:30 the box may need to be broken away to avoid breaking the ornament when it is being difficult to removed it from the block/box. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
Sorry, I do not sell these and I cannot supply the patterns. You would need to purchase the book of patterns and make them yourself. Or you could try drawing a similar pattern yourself. Thank you for watching!
Did you watch the video? Watch again and pay attention the to text @2:06 Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron
I just subscribed to your channel. I also have an Excalibur 16 and it's the best saw I have ever used in 15 years of scrolling. Are you cutting that pine in real time? I can't go that fast on compound cuttings. Great channel Ron. I plan on catching up on the videos I missed. Al
+oldman719 At the beginning of the scroll saw cutting I note that all scroll saw cuts shown 2.5 times actual speed. If I don't speed it up a little and edit out parts, people would fall asleep during the video. Thanks for watching!
Information on the pattern book by Diana Thompson is given in the first 5 seconds of the video. Do a Google search to find the availability in your area.
+Isabelle Fliegler The Scroll Saw being used in this video is the Excalibur 16". Very nice machine and the best I have used. Canadian Company, made in Taiwan, very well made high quality saw.
What a fantastic result. The word that springs to mind is "elegant".
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I learned a lot from it. I'm glad you addressed such things as blade drift, corner cutting techniques and blade tension. These are all things that bedevil beginners.
I really enjoyed this video just now. Not only does your expertise in scroll sawing shine, but also your teaching skills, especially the clarity in your explanations. Thanks so much!!
Thank you. Your comment is much appreciated!
You may find other projects of interest on my channel.
Please subscribe.
That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
I love watching you cut this beautiful ornament
I have zero experience with Proxxon. I have not seen one. Briefly looking at their website I get the impression they are geared toward miniature work and smaller machines. Previously I had a couple of Delta scroll saws, which were adequate. Now I have a 16” Excalibur scroll saw and I am very impressed with the solidness, quality construction and performance. I strongly recommend a machine that uses standard 5” plain end blades. Stay away from pin type (cross pin) blades. I hope that helps.
Oh my goodness! Gorgeous! I better get started right now, to get some done by Christmas... I only have 7 months!! :) Thanks for a great tutorial!
I am looking forward to trying these as soon as I can.
Thanks Ron for turning me on to this!
The blade needs to be square to the table and as tight as possible without breaking. If it is too loose it will deflect all over the place. If you push too hard it will get hot, burn the wood and/or break. You may screw up a few pieces before you get the tension and feed rate correct. Try different blades. Different people have success with different blades. Try different saw speeds. Practice makes perfect. Wrap it with packing tape - you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes. Have fun!
Wow Ronald this is stunning wouldn't have believed you could make something like this if I hadn't seen it for myself, your video is very inspirational thank you
Enjoy your presentations and videography. The tips you pass on are very helpful. Thank you.
I started making a chess set tonight that are very similar to what you are doing here. It is so satisfying popping out the finished product out of the middle.
Hey Ronald, thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent tutorial on 3-D scrolling projects
Glad it was helpful! Please subscribe. Ron
Making flat ornaments from the scrap pieces is genius! Great work. Subscribed :)
Thanks for this excellent video. Also thanks for the little written advices, they are very helpful. For me as a beginner it was just also a lesson. Thank you.
Beautiful workmanship, and an excellent example of both art, and Patience!
The obvious choice is Basswood as you point out, and I think that is what I would use when I try these, (hang the expense :) Thanks for sharing this.
Awesome video!! I just made my first floating media stand last weekend and finally stained it today and now you made me want to buy a scroll saw and do some more woodworking! Thank you
Astounding work, sir. I salute you.
Thanks for the info! I made 1 and the blade wasn't square, so it crumbled when I tried to pull it out. I just made another with the adjustments and your other advice, it came out really good! Thanks again.
Cracking video, lovely workmanship and very wise words!!
Ud! Es increible..gracias por excelente trabajo y por mostrarnos la forma de hacerlo.
Thank you, Ron!
Very nice how-to.
I shall give it a try.
Blade description is given at 2:09 Flying Dutchman Scroll Reverse FD SR No. 5
0.037" x 0.015" 13 TPI / 7 Rev Teeth
A good saw certainly helps but I started doing these on a relatively inexpensive Delta scroll saw. An on/off dead man floor foot switch has also helped a lot so I can stop cutting whenever I want. Go to my video on the 3D Reindeer Ornament and follow the link in the description for the pattern. Enlarge it a bit bigger to begin with … good practice. Thanks for watching.
Beautiful ornaments Have to get a scrollsaw someday.
Thank you so much! Great video! I’m a fan. Subscriber 💯
Save the block and glue the 3 sides back in to have a storage block to protect the ornament the other 11 months OR for safe shipping!
I reassembled the leavings of a rook chess piece I made and have been slowly filling it with left over epoxy. With any luck ill have a multicolored epoxy replica of the original.
1áá
Personally I have never needed anything deeper than 16 inch. They are all the same saw... just different depths. The 20 and 30 inch models probably have better balance on the workbench or worktable due to the much larger and heavier scroll saw table. I have mine fastened to the workbench.
Hello Ronald. Thank you for this informative and creative video on scrolling. Through the law of permutation I suppose the possibilitie are just about endless. The patterns you used are quite delicate, which is nice because it's always interesting when there's a lot less wood in the end than there was at the start ! Nice volume too when working "in the square", just like working in the round in carving. I enjoyed your site. All the best. P.s. mine's a Hegner - excellent.
Very nice artwork from great artist, just amazing
Thx
Thank you for explaining the process so well. Can you explain why you did not cut the outer shape first. Only asking as I am new to scroll saw work.
First, the blade needs to be square with the table. The wood blank is not very wide, so making the inside cuts first helps to hold the pattern square to the saw blade. Then, after making the first outside cut on one side, the blank is retaped to try to hold everything square while the other outside cut is made. Very important to let the blade do the cutting and allow the action of the teeth to clear the sawdust... do not push the blank trying to speed up the process. Probably the best lesson in doing all of this is your first few attempts when the cutting process will possibly result in the blade wandering and spoiling the ornament. Then the whole thing will become quite clear. Have fun. Mistakes are part of the learning process.
Thanks for watching.
Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going!
Ron
Thank you. Helps a lot.
Sugestion: Would be very interesting and useful if you can build up a kind of table, showing your experience about type of blade versus type of material versus speed.
And keep up the good work.
Best regards,
Hamilton
Most interesting. I want to add my to do list. New to scrool saw at free Library in my area! I would be o pround. I woul buy bass wood.
It takes a bit of practice and patience but you can do it.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Very nice. Thank you for sharing your experience!!
Thanks for the email Ron. I ordered the blade and he is sending them out on Monday. Still with you could buy them in Canada.
Wow 😮wow 😮wow that's amazing.
Information on the pattern book by Diana Thompson is given in the first 5 seconds of the video. Do a Google search to find the availability in your area.
Very nice work !!! thank you for the sharing !
Wow that as we call it over the pond is the Dogs Bollocks, Fantastic work and tutoring. Can you tell me where I can get the templates from ??
The pattern book by Diana Thompson is detailed in the first 5 seconds of the video and also listed in the video description.
Thanks for watching! Please subscribe.
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thank you.
una pequeña obra de arte felicidades
un... believable... very nice!
Beautiful work sir, and great tips too!
Thank you for a super informative video, I am new to scrolling and that was like a master class thank you once again.
Bravo!!! Super!!!
I got the book! Is it better to have a small blade (like you have) under higher tension or lower tension?
When I was watching one of sgood's youtube presentations, he showed how to make a wood clamp for holding 3D peices when doing the second cut!
Génial !!!
Ron Walters, how do you feel bout the EX-16?
Is it sufficient for your needs or would the 20" model be superior?
Does the Ex-16 have all the features of the EX-20 & EX-30?
Thank you
Desde chile, hermoso trabajo, felicitaciones...
I want this pattern so bad, I've got the wood (plenty of it) but I don't have the cash to buy the book and I can't find it at the library. This would be a great Christmas gift I could make for the family.
Incredible
Que buen trabajo, es usted muy hábil !
I congratulate you for such excellent work. Could you tell me the make and model of the saw you use? thanks
Beautiful
Magnifique !
Excelente trabajo amigo que bien.
How did you varnish it did you use a tiny brush with polyurethane or did you spray it??
Polyurethane with a small brush. May want to thin the polyurethane a little and plan on at least 2 maybe 3 coats. Sand off the roughness (gently) between coats.
Thanks! Just curious ... what make/model of scroll saw are you using?
thanks for the video Ron Swanson
just starting out and could only find poplar in a perfect square blank. never cut on hardwoods before any tips on how to not take 3 days to make an ornament?
It will be difficult to find suitable square stock at a lumber yard and if it is not perfectly square the 3D cut will not work. The wood needs free of knots and cracks. After wrapping with packing tape and drilling holes, it should only take 15 or 20 minutes to cut the first one. Then there is some sanding required. Make sure the saw blade is square to the table. Have fun!
Ronald Walters ok thank you for the tips it took about an hour to cut my first hole I think it was the wood I will need to try and cut some myself.
If it took that long to cut one hole you were probably also burning the wood and burning the blade. Wrap the wood with a couple layers clear packing tape (it lubricates the blade). The correct blade helps and a single blade should last several ornaments. Pine can be used or sugar pine. Basswood cuts very easy but is expensive. Do not force the blade, let the blade do the cutting. I do not know where you live. Use the blade recommended in the video. Also good are Scroll Reverse and Ultra Reverse from Flying Dutchman scroll saw blades. mikesworkshop.com/collections/blades After some practice it should take 20 minutes to cut out the entire ornament.
I am wanting to do this. Do you use the round blade that does back cuts and front?
Never... they do not produce a smooth edge.
Did you watch the video? Around 2:10 I show what blade I am using.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Started to do this out of poplar wood after watching your videos. Would Bass wood be easier then Poplar?
vtxrider1800r I have not tried Poplar. Some say Poplar (depending on what is being sold) may be softer than pine. Basswood cuts nicely but it is expensive. I have had good results with a clear, straight grain, piece of pine 2x4 with no sap. Whatever you cut, be sure to wrap it with clear packing tape which will make the cutting easier (it lubricates the blade).
Ronald Walters I've been using poplar for one dimensional scroll work and had good luck with it. Cuts easier and pretty cheap. a 1 1/2 square by 3 feet is $5 at the big at HD. I've been using the tape and it does what you said. They are different fun to make.
Nice work.
Ron I will have to give this a try for sure. I have the 21" Excalibur and love it. Is there anywhere in Canada you can buy Flying Dutchman Blades? Very nice work.
WOW that is beautiful Great work
Cheers
Albert
Very beautiful. Congratulations!
Where can I find the designs to make these jewels of wood?
hi im a total newbe to scroll saw ilove the chrismas orniments and have tried to make them without much success .no mater what blade i use or how gentle i am the blade always drifts of so the bottom is different from the top. any advice would be appreciated thank you
Pretty much everything you need to know is shown in these videos:
Christmas 3D Reindeer Ornament - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw
Christmas 3D Wood Ornaments - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw
Christmas 3D Gingerbread Man Wood Ornament - Compound Cuts on the Scroll Saw
And even this one will give you more information about cutting on a scroll saw:
Cutting Wood Gear & Clock Wheel Teeth
The wood block needs to be absolutely square.
The scroll saw table must be absolutely square to the blade.
A sloppy (loose) or worn out scroll saw is not going to give good results.
Your choice of wood can make a difference. Pine, with straight grain and no knots or splits, is fairly soft. Basswood is much easier to cut but is expensive. Oak or other hardwoods is probably a poor choice.
There can be pieces of wood with hidden flaws, cracks or sap pockets that can spoil your project.
The pattern must be attached square to the wood blank.
Wrap the entire blank with two layers of packing tape... the glue on the tape lubricates the saw blade.
Check a practice cut with a small square. If the face of the cut is not square to the top and bottom faces you need to find the problem.
Keep the blade exactly in (or on) the pattern line. If you wander back and forth from the line, it will spoil your project.
Let the blade do the cutting. The blade must be given time to clear the sawdust from the cut. If you force the blade too quickly, sawdust packs up in the cut the can (and will) overheat the blade and force the saw blade off track and will spoil your project.
A dull blade will overheat. Overheating usually changes the color of the blade... will soften the metal and will lead to the blade bending out of shape and/or breaking... spoiling your project.
Saw blade tension is important and is something you will just need to learn by doing. It is a find line between a blade being tight enough and too tight. Too tight and it can break prematurely. Too loose and the blade can wander and spoil your project. Keep fingers away from the blade and always be prepared for the blade to break. A broken blade can grab the blank and slam it up and down on the scroll saw table and can spoil your project.
I usually show tips and tricks and what blade are being used throughout the videos so pay attention.
The correct blade to use is a matter of trial and error and finding one that works for you.
If your saw has variable speeds, try slowing it down
Doubtful someone will get it right in the first couple of tries. Practice makes perfect.
Keep trying and have fun!
Thanks for watching! Ron
Very inspiring thank you
Pretty cool
OH MY GOSH! that is AMAZING!!
COOL!
really cool.
just ordered the book!
what size do you Need to cut the Wood??
please answer.
thank you
Jonas4747 I looked around and could not find one of these patterns. I think the wood for these were 1-1/2" square. The size can vary with the different patterns so it would be best to wait until you get the book and after you make photocopies of the patterns (some copy machines can distort dimensions). Have fun!
Thank you for the quick answer.
Not all blades are created equal. Occasionally you'll find one that breaks almost immediately... try again.
Hermoso trabajo!!!
Ah, I wish I was that good on the scroll saw!
16” Excalibur
Great video
Ich kann bei Laubsägearbeiten schauen wo ich will, überall wird 20-30 mm Holz ge-
schnitten wie Balsa. Was ist das für ein Holz? und wo ist es in Deutschland er
hältlich? Kann mir jemand helfen? Ich wäre froh und dankbar.
Good work
How many blades you need to cut the pine and finish the ornament?
Philippos Constantinou Depends on your experience tightening the blade, the quality of the blade and some on luck. Some blades may last 2 or 3 ornaments. Some only last one ornament. Some blades break in the first minute. But generally the blades will last longer than you may expect. You want to replace a blade if it starts cutting too slow or if it gets blue from the heat - replace it before it breaks as breaking in the middle of a cut could break the ornament.
Is it that I have a cheep saw, if I don’t have the guard down. It jumps all over the place.
COOOOL !!!
Ron, what blade are you using?
Thanks
Can you tell me the name of your blade? and where can I bought it? tank you so much. your work is amazing
This information was clearly given @ 2:06 to 2:16 in the video. Scroll Reverse FD-SR No. 5 Another good blade Ultra Reverse FD-UR No. 5
from Flying Dutchman Scroll Saw Blades - Google it.
meraviglioso...
nice work! what glue do u use?
For the patterns? Any stick glue or spray adhesive. Then wrap the whole thing in clear packing tape. The tape adhesive lubricates the blade and makes cutting easier.
Wunderschön!
great video ..... hope to see more stuff :D
If anyone could answer this , it would be much appreciated. Their was a ornament I believe the same woman the gentlemen mentioned in this video. But one ornament was made from cutting it out of a block but your ornament fits in a two sided box from the same block you cutter the ornament out of. . The box protects the ornament.
You could do that with one of these ornaments. The "scrap" sides are generally pretty flimsy and have packing tape all over them but you could save them for that. I prefer having a dedicated sturdy box just for these ornaments and you can always wrap them with the smaller bubble wrap or soft foam packing material. Thanks for watching. Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 I would like to see video of someone showing how one is made. Then the people you make the ornament for will have a box to it in
OK... I am showing you the box you refer to @ 4:00 and @ 4:10 . Sometimes if you are lucky the ornament can be removed easily. Then I usually break apart the box @ 5:15 and make additional "flat ornaments" by sanding the waste flat. But then as shown @ 9:30 the box may need to be broken away to avoid breaking the ornament when it is being difficult to removed it from the block/box.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Bellissimi. Posso sapere la marca e modello del traforo? Grazie
amazing!!!
Amigo vivo en colombia como hago para comprar la revista christmas ornaments
Sorry, I do not sell these and I cannot supply the patterns. You would need to purchase the book of patterns and make them yourself. Or you could try drawing a similar pattern yourself. Thank you for watching!
What blade do you use.
Did you watch the video? Watch again and pay attention the to text @2:06
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
That's so cool..
In this video - Excalibur 16 inch.
Outstanding! I subscribed...
I just subscribed to your channel. I also have an Excalibur 16 and it's the best saw I have ever used in 15 years of scrolling.
Are you cutting that pine in real time? I can't go that fast on compound cuttings.
Great channel Ron. I plan on catching up on the videos I missed.
Al
+oldman719 At the beginning of the scroll saw cutting I note that all scroll saw cuts shown 2.5 times actual speed. If I don't speed it up a little and edit out parts, people would fall asleep during the video. Thanks for watching!
Great video Ronald, very nice,
Samples, where can I get it?
Hello, Magyarországról, Europe
Information on the pattern book by Diana Thompson is given in the first 5 seconds of the video. Do a Google search to find the availability in your area.
Did you post the plans? where we can download?
Philippos Constantinou Copyrighted material. Full information on the pattern book is given in the first 5 seconds of the video.
Bonjour, quelle machine à chantourner pourriez-vous conseiller ? Merci
+Isabelle Fliegler The Scroll Saw being used in this video is the Excalibur 16". Very nice machine and the best I have used. Canadian Company, made in Taiwan, very well made high quality saw.
Wow these take some real concentration I guess