I would just like to say I’ve watched all the PCB videos, and also the CNC upgrade videos and really enjoyed them. I find it a shame that other TH-camrs get more views than your videos, given the lengths you go to, to deliver your content. I just want you to know that I really appreciate your content, and I’m quite sure others that watch your content feel the same. Thank You!
Well thanks for spending your time to check all those videos out, and for the supportive comment. I do know that there are a handful of viewers, like yourself, who are actively interested in seeing the content I make, and I do appreciate that. To be honest, if that wasn't the case, I probably would have given up making videos long ago. So thanks to you guys too! 👍
Good build. I thought of something similar when building a small cnc machine and sourced a long shank er11 collet (from ebay). This shank was 20mm diameter and 200mm long so by machining the long shank could remove the need to join a collet stub to a machined shaft as you did; though your solution worked well. I didn't build the spindle and purchased an off-the-shelf product from ebay.... Keep the videos coming.
I didn't know there was such a thing, interesting. Actually, when I first stumbled with the runout issue, I was thinking it might have been better to machine the chuck geometry directly into my shaft. But actually, I think the final solution I made was the safer bet, and allows me to adjust out any errors, or simply replace the chuck should I need too. I really don't blame you for not making your own, clearly I was putting it off myself, and I am surprised myself, by managing to push it over the line. If it is any good or not is still TBC however, I have some doubts honestly, and wonder if I should have just bought something off the shelf. But the mini lathe brushless motor implementation surprised me in the end, so hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised with the spindle once I start pushing it hard too. Let's wait and see! Thanks for the comment 👍
That is really good! I have seen the Carvera and other ones that use a brushless motor, but with a belt system. I have RC motors here, one day have to try something with 3d Printed parts. For you think you have a great setup there, with the brushless ESC it opens up some cool options like RPM monitoring or RPM auto control.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, one day I will eventually get around to building my own ESC to drive this motor, and I will surely be adding the features as you suggest.
Very good indeed, I wouldn’t have expected the heat to be an issue even without the fan unless you are planning to mill some heavy duty stock which I’m guessing your not but a nice addition anyway. I dont have a thermal camera so can’t measure my brushless motor temp on my 3018 but am guessing it gets quite a bit hotter than your build so I think you made a good choice. As ever extremely professional looking and as always inspiring for others too looking to build and improve their own machines. Enjoy your break well deserved and totally understand the more relaxed release schedule.
Thanks for the comment! I also expect the fan is not all that critical for the way I will typically use the spindle, but it just felt wrong not having any cooling solution. And while I do not expect I will be milling metal stock often, I definitely intend to give a try with this new CNC and spindle configuration, at least to understand what it is capable of. You never know, if it can actually do the job, I might even use it more for such jobs.
@@ForOurGood it should certainly be up to the task of milling aluminium to a very good finish i would think. Looking forward to seeing your result in the future. Thank you for the videos
Next time you need to grease a bearing, put a good sized glob of grease in a plastic bag then drop the bearing in . Twist the bag shut, making a point to let air escape. Then go back and forth in each hand squeezing the grease through the bearings and keeper. It’ll feel like you squeezing a stress ball. After a few good cycles of squeezing you’ll have a property packed bearing. You can use this technique for any type of roller bearing. I was wondering, would it be better to use an angular or tapered roller bearing as the thrust bearing? Great video, thanks for the time and hard work
Thanks for the comment, I’ll keep the bearing grease packing method in mind. The spindle could be running at speeds of up to 17K rpm with the right power supply, so I am not sure if having all the addition surface contact area and extra spinning mass of the rollers would be better than ball bearings. For sure they would hold up better under heavy drilling loads, but nothing like that will happen with my little CNC. But I don’t have any mechanical engineering qualifications or anything, and I am mostly guessing with this stuff, so I could be wrong!
Love the build but the only thing i'm screaming at my monitor about is you putting a gloved hand in the lathe there. Difference between getting cut and losing your hand if the glove gets caught is pretty big. Happens in a blink of an eye. Getting a little too comfortable around the spinning bits and they are not our friends. Machines don't care. I know it's a nag, but safety up bro. Just subbed and looking forward to the rest of your videos! Brilliant mod with the boroscope cam on the boring bar. Haven't seen that before.
Nice work! Really impressive engineering. I wonder if you would get better cooling if you resin printed a small fan and attached it to the top (back) of the motor to blow air through the motor windings etc?
That actually was my original plan, similar to what I did with my mini-lathe, but two things changed my mind. This first was that, different to my mini-lathe motor, this motor does not have vents on the shaft side of the motor, so there's actually no way to create any meaningful air-flow through the motor with a fan. The second thing was that, by using the thermal camera, I could see the outer case was not even getting hot when running, only the mount plate and internal core were heating up, so creating airflow on the outer case is also basically pointless. That's why I decided to try to cool by sucking heat away via the motor mount plate, and it seems effective, and even cools when the motor is slow or stopped. I believe there is enough cooling there for my application, and if it is not I will likely just try a more effective fan or heatsink. Thanks for the comment!
@@ForOurGood really good points, however if the fan was a little larger diameter than the motor body, you would get airflow around the case. I was thinking a shrouded fan would be ideal - I had something similar on my old 500 watt spindle drawing hot air up and away from the motor. I think it may be visible in an older video (it’s green). I FDM printed it and then balanced it with side cutters. 🤣
@@Cybernetic_Systems You make me laugh, I actually scribbled a ducted fan design and was going to build that before I changed my mind. But honestly, I think what I implemented is a more direct and simple way to draw the heat away from the core itself. Imagine you had a shroud, it might work ok, but that core is still going to have a lot of latent heat when you stop the motor, and it is all going to be bottled up in that shroud without any cooling. Anyway, I am really interested in trying this solution, and see how effective it is. The thermal camera does not lie. 😎 BTW: check a later episode of my mini lathe series to see the fan design I finally used there, with that design it seems to work pretty good.
@@ForOurGood hehe, I do recall the lathe motor cooling, it cooled your ESC stack too and looked really really good. Btw is 40c a concern for brushless motors? I admit I don’t have any direct experience with them.
@@Cybernetic_Systems 40degC at the core?? Nah, I don't think that is going to be a problem. I play with radio controlled cars, and those brushless motors can get super hot, often too hot to touch, must be north of 70degC on the outer case, and they seem to cope okay. In the video I was probably not clear, I was not worried about the 42degC temperature as such, I was worried about how quickly it took to get that hot, and how slow it was to cool down. Without any active cooling the trend did not look so good, and it clearly was not losing much heat naturally.
Hey great videos you make, me and other electronics engineering students are trying your methods. I just wanted to ask if you had any trouble with clearing the soldermask from the pads, because I tried many settings but solder doesen't stick to the pads, not even clearing with IPA or acetone. I had to polish with a dremel and polishing paste.
The simple answer is YES, I have had a lot of trouble clearing the pads. In my earlier episodes of the PCB series, I show a method where I use metal polish and a toothbrush to bring the pads to a shine. Even so, this method is not perfect, and I still had various problems with the whole pad clearing issue. But I have some good news, I have finally perfected this method, so your question is timed well. I am currently editing a video, which I will release in a week or so, that will revisit the entire PCB process, which includes a perfected method to clear the pads. I hope you and your fellow electronic students will find it useful!
@@hilfsbereit1437 Actually, I like the look of the 3020-PRO MAX V2, the one with the linear rails on the X-axis. But Genmitsu is selling it for $500USD, which is not exactly cheap, but the value is likely there with all the new hardware. Maybe it can be found on sale somewhere at a lower price. I am happy you have found the videos useful, and thanks for the comment!
I was not planning too. There is no way I could mill a PCB better than what I could make with the laser + etch process. But you never know, I might try it again one day, just out of curiosity.
I would just like to say I’ve watched all the PCB videos, and also the CNC upgrade videos and really enjoyed them. I find it a shame that other TH-camrs get more views than your videos, given the lengths you go to, to deliver your content. I just want you to know that I really appreciate your content, and I’m quite sure others that watch your content feel the same. Thank You!
Well thanks for spending your time to check all those videos out, and for the supportive comment.
I do know that there are a handful of viewers, like yourself, who are actively interested in seeing the content I make, and I do appreciate that.
To be honest, if that wasn't the case, I probably would have given up making videos long ago. So thanks to you guys too! 👍
Good build. I thought of something similar when building a small cnc machine and sourced a long shank er11 collet (from ebay). This shank was 20mm diameter and 200mm long so by machining the long shank could remove the need to join a collet stub to a machined shaft as you did; though your solution worked well. I didn't build the spindle and purchased an off-the-shelf product from ebay....
Keep the videos coming.
I didn't know there was such a thing, interesting.
Actually, when I first stumbled with the runout issue, I was thinking it might have been better to machine the chuck geometry directly into my shaft. But actually, I think the final solution I made was the safer bet, and allows me to adjust out any errors, or simply replace the chuck should I need too.
I really don't blame you for not making your own, clearly I was putting it off myself, and I am surprised myself, by managing to push it over the line.
If it is any good or not is still TBC however, I have some doubts honestly, and wonder if I should have just bought something off the shelf. But the mini lathe brushless motor implementation surprised me in the end, so hopefully I will be pleasantly surprised with the spindle once I start pushing it hard too.
Let's wait and see! Thanks for the comment 👍
That is really good!
I have seen the Carvera and other ones that use a brushless motor, but with a belt system.
I have RC motors here, one day have to try something with 3d Printed parts.
For you think you have a great setup there, with the brushless ESC it opens up some cool options
like RPM monitoring or RPM auto control.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, one day I will eventually get around to building my own ESC to drive this motor, and I will surely be adding the features as you suggest.
Very good indeed, I wouldn’t have expected the heat to be an issue even without the fan unless you are planning to mill some heavy duty stock which I’m guessing your not but a nice addition anyway. I dont have a thermal camera so can’t measure my brushless motor temp on my 3018 but am guessing it gets quite a bit hotter than your build so I think you made a good choice. As ever extremely professional looking and as always inspiring for others too looking to build and improve their own machines. Enjoy your break well deserved and totally understand the more
relaxed release schedule.
Thanks for the comment!
I also expect the fan is not all that critical for the way I will typically use the spindle, but it just felt wrong not having any cooling solution. And while I do not expect I will be milling metal stock often, I definitely intend to give a try with this new CNC and spindle configuration, at least to understand what it is capable of. You never know, if it can actually do the job, I might even use it more for such jobs.
@@ForOurGood it should certainly be up
to the task of milling aluminium to a very good finish i would think. Looking forward to seeing your result in the future. Thank you for the videos
Next time you need to grease a bearing, put a good sized glob of grease in a plastic bag then drop the bearing in . Twist the bag shut, making a point to let air escape. Then go back and forth in each hand squeezing the grease through the bearings and keeper. It’ll feel like you squeezing a stress ball. After a few good cycles of squeezing you’ll have a property packed bearing. You can use this technique for any type of roller bearing.
I was wondering, would it be better to use an angular or tapered roller bearing as the thrust bearing?
Great video, thanks for the time and hard work
Thanks for the comment, I’ll keep the bearing grease packing method in mind.
The spindle could be running at speeds of up to 17K rpm with the right power supply, so I am not sure if having all the addition surface contact area and extra spinning mass of the rollers would be better than ball bearings. For sure they would hold up better under heavy drilling loads, but nothing like that will happen with my little CNC. But I don’t have any mechanical engineering qualifications or anything, and I am mostly guessing with this stuff, so I could be wrong!
Love the build but the only thing i'm screaming at my monitor about is you putting a gloved hand in the lathe there. Difference between getting cut and losing your hand if the glove gets caught is pretty big. Happens in a blink of an eye. Getting a little too comfortable around the spinning bits and they are not our friends. Machines don't care. I know it's a nag, but safety up bro. Just subbed and looking forward to the rest of your videos! Brilliant mod with the boroscope cam on the boring bar. Haven't seen that before.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the nag! BTW: How did you find this video?
@@ForOurGood Hackaday of course! :)
@@youtubasoarus I never even knew... Thanks for letting me know!
Nice work! Really impressive engineering. I wonder if you would get better cooling if you resin printed a small fan and attached it to the top (back) of the motor to blow air through the motor windings etc?
That actually was my original plan, similar to what I did with my mini-lathe, but two things changed my mind. This first was that, different to my mini-lathe motor, this motor does not have vents on the shaft side of the motor, so there's actually no way to create any meaningful air-flow through the motor with a fan. The second thing was that, by using the thermal camera, I could see the outer case was not even getting hot when running, only the mount plate and internal core were heating up, so creating airflow on the outer case is also basically pointless. That's why I decided to try to cool by sucking heat away via the motor mount plate, and it seems effective, and even cools when the motor is slow or stopped. I believe there is enough cooling there for my application, and if it is not I will likely just try a more effective fan or heatsink. Thanks for the comment!
@@ForOurGood really good points, however if the fan was a little larger diameter than the motor body, you would get airflow around the case. I was thinking a shrouded fan would be ideal - I had something similar on my old 500 watt spindle drawing hot air up and away from the motor. I think it may be visible in an older video (it’s green). I FDM printed it and then balanced it with side cutters. 🤣
@@Cybernetic_Systems You make me laugh, I actually scribbled a ducted fan design and was going to build that before I changed my mind. But honestly, I think what I implemented is a more direct and simple way to draw the heat away from the core itself. Imagine you had a shroud, it might work ok, but that core is still going to have a lot of latent heat when you stop the motor, and it is all going to be bottled up in that shroud without any cooling. Anyway, I am really interested in trying this solution, and see how effective it is. The thermal camera does not lie. 😎 BTW: check a later episode of my mini lathe series to see the fan design I finally used there, with that design it seems to work pretty good.
@@ForOurGood hehe, I do recall the lathe motor cooling, it cooled your ESC stack too and looked really really good. Btw is 40c a concern for brushless motors? I admit I don’t have any direct experience with them.
@@Cybernetic_Systems 40degC at the core?? Nah, I don't think that is going to be a problem. I play with radio controlled cars, and those brushless motors can get super hot, often too hot to touch, must be north of 70degC on the outer case, and they seem to cope okay. In the video I was probably not clear, I was not worried about the 42degC temperature as such, I was worried about how quickly it took to get that hot, and how slow it was to cool down. Without any active cooling the trend did not look so good, and it clearly was not losing much heat naturally.
This is realy great
Hey great videos you make, me and other electronics engineering students are trying your methods. I just wanted to ask if you had any trouble with clearing the soldermask from the pads, because I tried many settings but solder doesen't stick to the pads, not even clearing with IPA or acetone. I had to polish with a dremel and polishing paste.
The simple answer is YES, I have had a lot of trouble clearing the pads.
In my earlier episodes of the PCB series, I show a method where I use metal polish and a toothbrush to bring the pads to a shine. Even so, this method is not perfect, and I still had various problems with the whole pad clearing issue.
But I have some good news, I have finally perfected this method, so your question is timed well. I am currently editing a video, which I will release in a week or so, that will revisit the entire PCB process, which includes a perfected method to clear the pads. I hope you and your fellow electronic students will find it useful!
Hello, i have the next question. Is the new 3018 pro Max for your opinion better?
I can many learn from you Videos. May thanks😊
@@hilfsbereit1437 Actually, I like the look of the 3020-PRO MAX V2, the one with the linear rails on the X-axis. But Genmitsu is selling it for $500USD, which is not exactly cheap, but the value is likely there with all the new hardware. Maybe it can be found on sale somewhere at a lower price.
I am happy you have found the videos useful, and thanks for the comment!
Are you going to try milling pcbs again?
I was not planning too. There is no way I could mill a PCB better than what I could make with the laser + etch process. But you never know, I might try it again one day, just out of curiosity.
Nice !!!