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@@المخترععودةالكاطع Yes, you will need!

@@المخترععودةالكاطع sorry, small correction. I thought you were talking about the UV laser where protection glasses are a must. If your UV light has its own UV light shield, then you don't really need glasses. If you have an open UV light, and you use it a lot, then using UV protection glasses would be a good idea. Generally I don't use UV glasses during the UV curing process, as my lights are shielded.

@@ForOurGood Thank for your answer

@@muhammadkhali5 You should be able to use with any digital pin on the Arduino Uno. Just change the defines to point to the digital pin you are using. Thanks for the question!

@@RNDHVAC what is the size of your display?

@@ForOurGood 20 x4 sir

At 33:56 I define the numbers of rows as "DISP_ITEMS_ROWS = 3", if you change this to be "1" it should scroll in a single row (but I have not tested it). Good luck with your project, and please watch the video carefully and try to understand the best you can, if you can understand it well, then it should be easy enough to modify this code to fit most display style requirements.

@@ForOurGood I've tried that it worked but i also wanted to place my menu in the 4th row i have change things and it keep start in second row how do i change that

@@RNDHVAC Ok, so I understand you have got the single row scrolling menu working on the second row, but you want it on the 4th. The "menuItemPrintable" routine not only returns a positive state if the item is to be printed, but it is also responsible for locating the cursor. So the easiest way to push it down would be to add "+2" to the calculation for the Y-pos in the "lcd.setCursor" routine. Ideally you would be better adding a define for this offset value, and then adding this define value as opposed to hard coding the offset value.

@@enkidu9989 think I have seen that before. I think they lay down a tape, laser cut around the pads, remove the unwanted tape, spray the paint and let it dry, and then use something to dissolve the tape... Do a search on TH-cam and you will find it. I think it was something like that.

@@enkidu9989 There are literally endless ways to do this, and I have been told by others that they do the mask just as you mentioned here, so I guess that works too. This is actually an early episode in my PCB series, if you are interested in seeing how the development process progressed, then I suggest you keep watching the series in order. If you just want to see where I am at now, then skip to my most recent episode in the series. The most recent version of my process actually gives some impressive results, especially if you consider where I started with all this. Even so, I still have a few new things I want to try, not sure if it will be better than what I am already doing, but you won't know if you never try! Good luck with your PCB making process, and thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

TH-cam is god of killing peoples motivation to actually make videos like this.. take a month to make a video that gets a few hundred views.. you get the idea.. I have always said this is by design, TH-cam does this so people make them free content, then those people disappear, and because there will always be the next sucker ready to waste their time for the unobtainable TH-cam success, TH-cam always wins... Anyway, it is what it is, I am having a small hiatus while a restore a motorcycle, and there is no way I am making a video about that for noone to watch.. but I will likely be back with something later in the year (after I somewhat forget what a total waste of time making these videos are) Thanks for the nice comment however!

@@ForOurGood you know I was searching for a in-depth technical video like your for ever. All the search results are from big time TH-camrs with millions of view that are absolute garbage. Only reason I found you because I set my search filters to long form over 20min vid. Your pcbs, 3d designing and methodology of approach for problem solving is better than I have ever seen and strongly believe should be something that they should teach in school. Also over complicating/ astronomically over engineering very simple things is very close to my heart as that’s my exact approach. (Built a soldering station that can calibrate and save multiple irons with varying characteristics and automagic self calibration. Running on a stm32h7 lol) only ever use one iron. Your pcbs are hand down the best I have ever seen. I am absolutely following on your foot steps. Also just binged the entirety of 60 vids. Hope soon people finds you and your channel blows up. Your video quality is superb. In every aspects.

@@eross21 The brand of the green UV resin is "WNB". You can find it on Ali-Express. It is shiny after removing the silkscreen, but after UV exposure it goes a little matt. I think it looks pretty good, better than shiny.

@@Lew114 Not, not for this method. Generally I try to avoid interrupts, using them only when they are absolutely necessary.

@@zacharyreed8523 Thanks for watching and thanks for your questions. 1) The great thing about this menu structure is that there really are not any limitations. If you want to start the application at the operating screen, then just set the menu start point to be the operating screen. You can then just have a button to go to the settings list page (for example). Please see EP6 where I do exactly that for a similar application. 2) I have a number of videos showing how to do just this, so please check them ALL out ;-) 3) I demonstrate how to do this in EP4, EP6 & EP7 (in different flavours) If you watch EP11 of my mini-lathe series, you can see where I use this exact menu structure for a complex graphics display. Unfortunately I have not had the time to do a video on graphics displays, but it is much the same as for the LCD displays (once you get it to the stage of printing text to the screen that is).

@@ProactiveExcellence thanks for watching and thanks for the question. Actually it features in a couple of my later videos, check them out if you're interested.

Thanks for taking time to leave the info for everyone. Actually I made this video before I really started using the ESP32, so I didn't know about the special issues. However on my latest Menu coding video I had a viewer ask me about using it with ESP32, so I tried it, and noticed the special adaptations needed for the EEPROM. I also have a community post about this.. maybe I will add a pinned comment in this video later to point people to that info too.

Oh, and on the Serial.Printf point, yes I am aware of this function, seems like 101 type of an item for anyone learning C properly (admittedly I never learnt C properly). But in Arduinoland, the implementation is patchy, inconsistent, and in some cases takes up too much memory if you include it in the compile options. I did actually mess around with it for a while, but in the end I found it too frustrating to use. My objective is always to try to keep the code clean, but it's also to try and keep the code as easily transportable as possible between different microcontrollers, and by doing so improving reusability. So for now I live a coding life without adequate access to Serial.PrintF.. If I was only using ESP32 however, I likely would be saying something different.

@@TeslaFactory Actually it's my most viewed video, so I guess it is a good fit for some people. But taking over 2-years just to get 20K views, plainly indicates that other similar videos must do a far better job for a wider audience. It is what it is! Anyway, I'm always happy to hear that it was useful to someone. So thanks for taking the time to comment!

@@stephanc7192 Hey thanks! I am glad you found it useful 😃

@@Segphalt if that's a real 3W optical power laser, it should be enough to remove the resin. Maybe a little weak to cut the board, but you could do that a different way.

@@jaggerneill1404 Check my newest video for more insights. There is never a "final" solution of course. I will continually try to find ways to improve my methods, or even try totally different methods. Thanks for the comment!

I am sure there are many videos on TH-cam featuring various different methods for this, there are about 5 videos on the topic on my channel alone! Check them out if you are interested. Thanks for the comment.

@@ForOurGood I will watch all your videos. About to try and do this myself. I'm trying the CNC method. Using the silk screen to apply the ink and a laser printer to create a mask for the UV light. Via's will use rivets for double sided boards. After the uncured ink is removed from the pads. Then tinning liquid on the pads only. Just trying to avoid all the chemicals if I can. This is being tried at home. All your's and others videos are making this possible.

@@GodKitty677 Good luck!

Thanks so much 🙏

Originally when I first started this series I did give it serious thought, but did not follow through in the end. Without a doubt, it would save some time assuming the relationship would reliably remain precisely locked. But, likely just adjusting the height of the spindle in the mount will knock this out of whack (I use the CNC for various things, not just making PCB's). Physically having them both mounted at the same time will also likely affect the physics of the CNC3018, and that may affect the precision, and naturally the usable range will be reduced, and then we also have a risk of precision errors in the lead screw affecting the result (as we would be working in different areas of the lead screw for laser vs spindle) Phew.. actually there were more concerns than I remembered, some of them likely are not a concern at all, but only testing would confirm that. Anyway, I really like the idea of making the reference marker for a given job, so I would be making that in any case. This provides a way to precisely recover the position should your controller lose its marbles or something else that causes you to lose position. It also provides a way to check with confidence that your alignment is correct, before you start doing the actual work.. so peace of mind and all that. Actually the alignment process is not the difficult part, really it is physically fiddling around, swapping between laser and spindle, that would be the primary benefit of having them co-mounted. Sorry for the waffling! 😁

Yep, the devil's in the details as they say. Some people will think video goes into too much detail, but I know from experience, that it is hard to put this puzzle together when your starting from zero. BTW: The track is squiggly to tune it to an exact length because.. nah.. just kidding, actually the resistor is at a weird angle and I wanted to leave room for the ground plane to sneak through.. sadly I am still a nube when it comes to KiCad, and could not figure out how to freely set the angle of the track to match with the resistor.. Do you know how?? Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Glad you liked it, and thanks for taking the time to leave the comment.

I am glad you liked the video, it seems that you are one of the few people who noticed I turned the ads off.. weird. I did a lot of testing in an earlier video in my series, check that out if you missed it, and thankfully found this green resin burns extremely reliably. But you are correct however, burning anything very shiny, glossy or translucent will not burn with this laser. In this case, using a dark coating or sanding the surface is the only way to get a reliable burn. I have not had trouble with burning normal white paper however, so I don't think the colour is the main problem, more so the reflectivity or transparency appears to be the culprit. I have not tested burning white UV resin yet, but I do plan to try to do that in the future. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment and leaving some suggestions, people sharing their experiences have helped me a lot with this project.

Hi there! Thanks for your question. This is something I purchased from Amazon, it is a credit card sized device intended to be used to measure cracks in concrete. I am not sure if Amazon sells this in other countries. It works ok, but at the smaller sizes, the print is not so clean, and it's hard to measure with. I would actually prefer to find something better. There are a lot of episodes about this PCB making process on this channel, check them out if you have the time.

You're very welcome!

Actually, I tried a couple of others that people suggested, but ended up sticking with UGS for now, it's actually not all that bad taking everything into account. Maybe if I get motivated I will try some others at some point in the future.

Thanks for the comment! I am glad to hear the video might be of some help. Good luck with your rebuild!

Actually I use self-ground HSS but a lot, because they give a better finish and often better form factor. You can see them in use in some later videos. But, I still use those cheap carbide inserts too when I am being lazy, the finish is a compromise, but they are pretty convenient.

Never too late to learn if you have an interest.

Don't get me started.....

Unfortunately the yellow ABS I had would not print the center bit, so this is what you get. Thankfully I am the only person who uses this, and my human instincts just have me fist slamming the button in emergencies, I don't seem to have much time to check the colour in such cases.

Didn't notice I was going the wrong way, usually I am pretty careful about that. Thankfully it worked out ok.

Glad you liked it, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!

Thanks for watching and thanks for the nag! BTW: How did you find this video?

@@ForOurGood Hackaday of course! :)

@@youtubasoarus I never even knew... Thanks for letting me know!

I can pretty conclusively say that acceleration does not play a notable role when using this process. I was in fact worried about that given the CNC3018 with its cheap lead screw accelerates pretty slowly. Undoubtably there is minor affect, but it is not noticeable from my experience. The key issues about clearing the resin from the pads without burning them off the board, comes down to a very simple calculation. That is how much “heat over time” you inject into the pad, and how much “heat over time” the pad can dissipate. If you add far more heat than the pad can dissipate in a given timeframe, then that will result in enough heat build up to eventually burn the substrate (And on top of all that, of course you’ll always need enough laser power to clear the resin). The best solution I have found is to use active cooling, such as air-assist, by doing that you can stop the pad from building up too much heat, meaning you can get away with a much higher power level that allows you to clear all pads with a single power setting. If you do not have air-assist, then the only other option is to break up the pads into different groups/jobs, applying an appropriate power level, depending on how well you expect them to be able to dissipate/cope with heat. Naturally this requires experience and good judgement to get this right, that is why I recommend air-assist as demonstrated in this video. Thanks for your comment and I hope you enjoy the video.

​@@ForOurGoodif so then that's very different from my result. I got full blast of air assist on all the time but can still see very clearly that the corners will get burned much more than s straight line. There are some settings to help even out the laser power but then it will reduce the power by a lot and still somehow doesn't get that consistency. There is one more thing is that if I don't align the laser well enough and some how burn into the resin area beneath then 100% guarantee that the pads will peel off. Those got me so frustrated with the laser so I developed my own process using printed light mask to cure the solder mask. I've been having consistent results since then and much simpler process and less tedious. Hopefully I can share it some days but I'm quite lazy with making videos and busy with out projects also. But I'm very glad that you succeed with your process. I hope more people will get into this so someone will try to fix FlatCAM. 😅

@@TinNguyen-uu2tr If the acceleration is that slow, then there must be a problem with your settings of your CNC (mine is 500mm/sec/sec for all axis) Also, using good FlatCAM settings is pretty critical, and that's why I discussed in detail in this video. Finally, maintaining perfect alignment is also critical, which is why I came up with the new alignment method which is working very good (alignment pins just don't provide enough precision). Finally, you can't have the laser set too hot, there is a limit to how much air assist can help. In any case, I am glad you came up with a process that is working for you, I am very much looking forward to your video 👍😁

After seeing the great results of the silkscreen, I also had various ideas about how I could apply this for different purposes, maybe even trying to set the positive etch pattern with it. Setting the resin around the pads should also be plausible. Naturally, I would need to switch to the 10sec Mechanic resin for everything, and of course this is going to mean much much longer jobs (although it may be possible for it to be faster if the resin is not a couple of years old, like mine is). Then there is the question as to if the result would be cleaner using an expose method vs the burn method, and how reliable/consistent that might be given the expose method is a little more finicky, compared to burn method that just works and gives a consistent result every single time. For a silkscreen, +/- 10% thickness variation does not make a big difference, just as long as you can get it to stick, but a for a etch resist or pad clearing operation, this could be a real problem when working with small stuff. I also have other ideas about ways to clear the pads by laying something down in advance that could easily be removed later, along with any resin on top, but this has not progress beyond the thinking stage at this time, I generally think this might be a non-starter. For now, I am super happy with the results I am getting with the current process, and I probably make it look harder to do than it actually is, this is mainly because I had a lot of bad experiences before finally getting to the point where it actually works well. I still have a few improvements to my process in mind, but mostly minor tweaks to materials, tools and methods. Even so, I think at some point I will experiment with the resin expose method more, at least to test my assumptions, and see if this might actually be something practical/possible/worthwhile to do more with. As for the oven, I did actually think about doing something like that for this video, but in the end, I deemed it not a pressing concern, that old Panasonic clothes iron is doing what I need it to do for now. Maybe one day!

@@ForOurGood Cool, I figured you'd likely at least thought about it. Btw, what power is your laser? I've got a dinky little 5w laser that is essentially useless for anything other than marking things or exposing resin, and I really need to find a better one.

The laser I am using is a “LaserTree Gold 450nm 40W-Pro 12V 20mm Fixed Focus Laser”, apparently it puts out less than 10 watts of optical power in reality. I highly recommend getting one with an air assist nozzle.

@@ForOurGood Cheers, I'll have a look for a similar unit.

Hi Giovanni, I am sorry you have some trouble, that is a part of learning, but please be assurred that many other people have confirmed the menu works fine. I don't release the code intentionally, to increase the chance you will learn more by doing, and solving the problems yourself. I suggest you follow the video step by step, confirming that the results you are getting at each step exactly match what I am demonstrating, and if at any point it does not match, then focus on that area, and see if you can solve the problem. Writing code is not always fun, but it can be rewarding when you understand and get things to work as you expected. Good luck!

Just in case you are not taking the piss, and simply missed the section, I do talk about this at 2:24:30 Glad you liked the video! 😁 I am feeling pretty buggered after making that one.

@ForOurGood I managed to comment just before I got to you mentioning liquid tin, so that’s on me for jumping the gun. 🤦🏼‍♂️ no piss was harmed in the making of my comment. 😜

@ForOurGood I’m not surprised you are exhausted after that movie length video, I felt tired after making my latest 15 minute video. 🤦🏼‍♂️

@@ForOurGood I just got to the end, your silk screen imo looks better than the manufactured PCB silk screen. Iirc the cheaper boards use inkjet printing.

Btw, you should submit this to hackaday if you haven’t, always pcb makers lurking there :)

The title is unlikely to help much, at best my videos top out at about 20K after a few years, worst cast a couple of hundred views. Basically, TH-cam does not promote my videos in any sensible way, I laugh when I see my videos continuously recommended on things like Polish Opera videos, then TH-cam Studio gives advice that the poor click rate is because my thumbnails suck... yeah right.. The conspiracy theorist in me makes me want to say this is because I disabled ads for all my videos, but TH-cam says its policy is that this makes no difference, so it likely is because my videos are not so great after all. Anyway, impressions for this video have already dropped to zero after 5 days. (Rant over). BTW, I originally got interested again in making PCB’s when I saw a Wegstr video, and was fully expecting to be milling PCB’s, and in my second episode made a sincere effort to do just that. But milling PCB’s on my 3018 just was just not doing it for me, so I quickly decided to try a different path. Again, likely due to some bias, I really like this process, and at least comes to etching an amazing result, it’s just so damn reliable and stupid proof. Once you take the mechanical interaction out between the CNC and the PCB, it totally transforms what a cheap CNC is capable of delivering. As a contrast, a Wegstr PCB mill is selling for $3.7K shipped, for me that does not seem like the typical DIY’er spend, maybe it is ok for some people. Let me know how you go with the silkscreen, and thanks for the comment!

@@robindebreuil Thanks for the advice, but I am not so good at self-promotion, I just throw it out there and see what happens. I don’t even bother doing the obligatory beg for likes or subscriptions in my videos anymore.

@@ForOurGood Ha yeah, right there with you, promotion is unpleasant work. The Wegstr machine seems amazing, but yeah, different thing. I’m working towards a small dedicated machine for simple PCBs. There are so many ways to remove copper, it makes for an interesting obsession. Very inspired by your dedication to the craft here, thanks for sharing it in such a detailed manner.

Yeah, sorry for the long video, but it seems tutorials do much better if they are not split up. Even so, I am glad you found it interesting. I did actually try using plastic sheet, but I could not get a clean cut... more of a melty twisty result... I didn't use matte black paint, but I did try a matt black paint pen if I remember correctly. The feature size also is a challenge, with a paper label I could barely eek out the 0.2mm width required for the QFN20 package, so I sort of came to the conclusion that trying to do that with plastic sheet would simply be futile. What sort of resolution are you getting? Do you know what type fo plastic the sheet is made of? Currently, I am usually only doing one or two PCB's with a given stencil, so it is not really a big deal if it is not reusable (of course that would be nice if it was reusable). What is more of a concern, is getting the correct thickness (currently good), nice clean edges (currently not great), smooth surface (currently not really), required resolution (currently passable) and relatively sturdy (currently sturdy enough for a couple of uses, but not really sturdy as such) In know the locating of the stencil, is doable without an adhesive backing, have seen this in another persons video, so I am not super worried about that aspect either way. Thanks for taking the time to comment and provide some info too!

Just noticed your "mouse-bites" point, not sure why I missed it first read, but I will try to keep that in mind, thanks! As for amount of hours in production.. yep, don't want to think about it much, especially because I already know the video will not really get that many views. But they say, about an hour per minute, is what it takes just to properly edit a TH-cam video.... but that excludes everything else

@@ForOurGood The first plastic stencil I made was from the diffuser sheet from a cracked LCD monitor. Since then I have used old school transparency sheets made for laser printers. I found two lower power cuts are better than one high power. Also I cut the outline only and not the field area.

@@mitchellhw2006 Got it, thanks! I will see if I can find something similar and give it a go. I actually used to use those laser printer transparencies back in the 90's when I was making PCB's back then, I guess it makes sense that they are somewhat heat tolerant.

You can find the code as a response to one of the older comments below! Hope that helps.

@@ForOurGood Thank you, it must have been a syntax error. question, how can i get the program to do something base on the screen option it landed...i'm rather new to this. so how would the program know the choice the user made..i want to be able to execute code based on let's say the submenu choice 1?

Sorry, I don't think I have a helpful answer to this question. For the very basics, maybe some other channels have a better video, there are also many other good resources available out there to learn from. I hope you succeed in what you are trying to do!

There are plenty of resources out there if you want to learn electronic. You don’t need to learn absolutely everything to be able to start making your own PCB’s. Start small, learn the very basics, and do some testing to see if what you learnt makes sense with the results you get. Each small piece of knowledge is a building block you can use to improve your skills as you go, and in this way, it is very similar to learning writing code. I started writing code at the age of 12, but I did not start doing anything with electronics until age 17, but learning code helps you with structural thinking, and that helped allot when learning electronics. Good luck!

Seems I am a little late to the game with regards to pre-baking UV resin before exposure, but it does not exactly seem to be common practice either. Actually, just yesterday I noticed on an Ali-Express store with the Mechanic UV resin, a set on instructions indicating both pre & post baking as a part of the process (the instructions are really not that clear however, and they talk about baking times of 50~60mins for each, which seems excessive). Unfortunately, I see no such similar instruction for the green WNB UV resin I am using. I also didn’t see a specific improvement in curing time with the Mechanic UV resin after baking, even though the viewer who commented indicated instant curing was achievable. The clear benefit I did get was a quality improvement, which in that case is the most critical thing anyway. It is possible that either my testing was not thorough enough, or my UV resin has just aged poorly (it is about 2 years old, and Mechanic UV resin is stated as a 12-month shelf life) Even so, I was already thinking to give pre-baking a try with my green WNB UV resin, so I will likely do that next time, and see how it affects the curing time (30mins is way too long). Don’t think I will be hitting with a heat gun however, that would likely disturb the finish, so I will probably try the hotplate, basically using a similar method to what I am already doing with the Mechanic UV resin. Would be nice to get the time to less than 15mins in total, otherwise it is probably not worth the extra messing around. Thanks for the comment!

The process is actually relatively cheap, considering the end results that can be achieved. If you are smart with the purchases, I expect you could get started for around about $300USD. You also need to keep in mind that the CNC is a multi-functional device, and you can use it for things beyond just making simple PCB’s. Thanks for the comment!