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@@trhosking the clamps are long, thick and cut with a slot to ensure the clamping force is relatively flat (see episode 2 for more info). Possibly the slots could be a little deeper, but over it does the job good enough for this application. Your point however is very much valid, the way the clamping force is applied is important! Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for your comment and query. I don't think you will get the required precision using belts, I am using basic leadscrews purchased from Ali-Express with 2mm pitch and 4mm lead, they work well with good precision up to speeds of 500mm/min. Please see other videos on my channel for more information.

@@witawat I think I cover this is this video, as well as earlier videos. The only "chemicals" I use is generic 99% IPA as well as generic Ferric Chloride. This stuff is typically produced and branded locally in each individual country, so the local Japanese brand I am currently using is likely not useful information for the bulk of viewers (I don't even remember the brand I am currently using). Typically just buy this stuff from Amazon or other similar sites. I am not sure if that answers your question, so if you need more information then could you be a little more specific? Thanks for the question!

UV Color and 1:20:50 What TURBO ?

@witawat Green "WNB" UV resin and White "Mechanic" both purchased from AliExpress. The Turbo is a simple CA glue (super glue) accelerator, it is a local Japanese brand, but you should be able to find something similar locally.

Happy New Year to you! Hope you have a wonderful 2025!🎊 Really disappointing to hear I spent all those hours making this video, only to have it be a total waste of your time.... Hopefully you will find a better channel that fits with what you need. 👍 Wishing you all the best with your CNC endeavours 😊

@@thomasschmidt5546 I am so glad you liked it! If you're interested, check my more recent videos about major upgrades to my CNC. Thanks for watching!

@@Edmorbus Thanks for the query, but I am very sorry to say, that I don't have any mechanism setup to share files. The design of the switch mounts are actually pretty simple though, and if you are not familiar with 3D design software it would be a great chance to learn. Thanks for watching!

@@TankTurk Great video, I honestly found it very interesting. Using the brayer actually gives a much better result than I was expecting, so even if just for comparison I will likely give it a go at some point. Thanks for sharing, and I was also humbled to see your effort in making your own UV box using some inspiration from my design, I never thought I would see something like that. I also reckon your video production is just fine the way it is, nice and straight forward so don't change a thing, it will be interesting to see what you make next! 👍

@@ForOurGood, thanks for your kind comment. I did write a reply earlier but it seems to have vanished! LOL I do like your UV box so had to replicate it. It took me a few goes printing it but got there in the end. My PCB doesn't look as nice as yours but it works so I'm happy Yeah, try out the brayer and let me know how you get on. I am going to make a PCB next using what I learned from you. I might make a video of it but not sure yet. Thanks again for your excellent videos

@@TankTurk don't know where the original comment went, seems TH-cam has eaten it.. happen sometimes. It was not in quarantine, so I guess it will remain a mystery.

i had a similar problem...

@@bikeradam if it is still of use to you, you can find the full listing for the code in the response of one of the comments below. Apologies for wasting 12 or so hours of your time, and seemingly the 60 or so hours for me making this video for you, but it was my first attempt at making a video like this, so it probably was unlikely to be perfect, and I am happy to admit it is not (even though I tried my best!). Hopefully there will be other channels out there that will provide a better fit for what you want to achieve, seems there are hundreds of channels out there teaching this stuff, and all for free! (It's a great time to learn code it seems) No matter what thanks for taking the time to leave some feedback! ❤️

@@dianchaowang The global root_Pos is intentionally used to return the root menu pointer back to where it was. It is not actually necessary, but it was my intended behaviour in this case. Thanks for the comment 🙂

@@ForOurGood BTW, you video is super! I learned a lot. Keep up the good work!😁

@stephenhumble7627 It's a interesting idea! I have a nice Makita orbital sander, maybe I should stick a board on there and give it a try ;-) Actually, if you watch my later videos, you will see I have switched to using a silkscreen technique, which actually is easy enough to do, and gives an excellent result, so at the moment I am not feeling motivated to start a new round of experiments to re-solve an already solved problem. Even so, thanks for the idea, I will definitely keep it in mind. I have seen people spin coating for semiconductor making stuff, so I suspect if I need to get a super thin layer, then spin + vibrate would likely be the way to go!

@@TankTurk Mine is set at a height of 30mm, and it seems to work ok with fairly even exposure.. though it is not particularly fast with the green WNB resin still taking about 30mins to fully cure. I think I did some basic tests to determine this height, but it wasn't particularly thorough.. possibly a different height could have been better.. but then there is the matter of heat buildup in a confined space.. Not sure if that helps, but there you go! Thanks for the question 👍.

@@TankTurk I meant 30mm.. sorry about that

@@ForOurGood, thanks for your prompt reply. I ordered the same as yours but the 100W one, it'll be delivered today. I'll start at 30mm and do some tests

​@@ForOurGood, Hi, me again. Just thought I'd give an update. I tested it and it seems 30mm is just the right height. It took 10 minutes for the ink to cure fully. I use a brayer to spread the ink, it goes on evenly and very thin. I'm thinking that the ink being so thin it's probably better as it can be burned easier and maybe even with faster speed. I'll try it and see how that works out.

@TankTurk Wow, that's interesting, I had never thought to use a roller to apply the UV resin. You should do a quick video on it and share the process and results. I have found that having good thickness consistency is really important for this process, so as long as you have that it should be good. The thinner the better also is the way to go, but I am sure there is a natural limit to that rule however. Good progress, it will be interesting to see your final results.

@@TankTurk Well I am so happy to hear that this video was finally useful to someone in a comprehensive manner.. I had half given up on it. Thanks for taking the time to let me know, and hope you have a wonderful festive season too! BTW: in the end, how did you (re?)discover this video?

@@ForOurGood, I was searching how to make a PCB with a Diode laser. After watching a few, your video popped up. I was a bit reluctant to watch it as it's almost 3 hours long but I am really glad I did. I still need to practice and dial in my laser but last nights tests turned out good so I have high hopes of producing some good looking PCBs, at least a lot better than what I have been producing till now. Thanks again

@@fooballers7883 Happy to hear it was useful for you! And thanks for leaving the comment 🙂

@@retu191057 Actually, I don't know for sure (since I don't own one), but If the laser wavelength is close enough to what the UV resin requires to cure, and you can throttle the laser power low enough, then I don't see any reason as to why it wouldn't work. Give it a try and let us all know! Thanks for the question.

As the display is updating twice when the incorrect change happens, the action must be a combination of 2 loops, each time triggering the "PressButton" class "Repeated()" function, causing and add or subtract to happend twice. The problem is likely because of some typo in this function (see @26:54), the button state is either not being set correctly, or being checked correctly, resulting in the double trigger (likely you are not clearing the "WasDown" flag in the first "if" section @27:42). Take a close look at this function and see if you can understand what is going on, and ultimately fix the problem. It could also be useful to check the earlier episode where I talk about this function in more detail (though it is modified a little in this new episode). Good luck!

@ Thank you for your explanation and quick response. I will immediately work on fixing the code and will update you once it functions as expected.

No, I am sorry, I have no plans at this time to go through this particular project in a video. Even so, many of the lessons are based on code taken from this application.

After doing some quick searches I found that to use the digital input pull up resistor, you just have to connect the button to a pin and then to the ground, so the grey wires, as well as that black jumper connected to the short blue and red wires are not included in the setup right? The diagram should clear up my misunderstandings haha

@@neutzche @1:37 there is a pretty clear shot of the wiring.. I left some other unrelated junk on this breadboard that might be a bit confusing. But yes, as you have already figured out, each digital input is configured to use the internal pull-up (discussed a@7:20), so the circuit is just 4 switches, switching to ground, each connected to a digital input, and nothing else!.. now I'm pretty sure I don't need to make a diagram for that. Good Luck!

@@ForOurGood Got it! Thanks for the prompt response. I'm currently following through the video and got to the part testing the down button. I probably made a mistake when following along because mine won't work, it's quite a headache to find what I missed haha! Cool stuff tho!

@@neutzche We intend to please! My assumption is that most people will make mistakes.. mistakes and thinking about how things work is a very important part of the learning process. Hope you can figure it out!!!

@@ForOurGood yeah, for some reason, the down button won't detect when I press it haha already checked the pin assignments, they seem to be in order, so it's either there's some improper connection somewhere or I have faulty buttons or board haha I dunno. I tried switching my board but the other one I got shows Access is denied when I tried to upload the code.

As a general rule I don’t give direct feedback or provide viewers with specific code for their projects, because that would become too overwhelming. However, I can provide you with some advice, and hopefully point you in the right direction. The first golden tip I can provide (from suffering a lot of pain myself), is that AVOID USING FLOATS wherever possible, they are totally broken in Arduino and give inconsistent and confusing results. Now with that out of the way, what I recommend you do is work in whole numbers that are a multiple of a fraction, for example the value could represent a quantity of a thousandths. To give yourself an appropriate range, you will want to use a big integer for this, signed or unsigned depending upon your requirement, for example a int64 or a unit64, but it could be smaller variable type too. A int64 has a max value of 9,223,372,036,854,775,807, so even if you used a billionth fraction representation, that still gives you a max whole number value of 9,223,372,036 with huge fractional precision. Where ever possible you will manipulate the value in its native form, but taking into account its fractional nature. Finally, only in cases where it is absolutely necessary to use the value as a float, at that point in the code covert the value back to a float using something like “float(myValue/1000)”. Hope that helps, and thanks for the question!

@@ForOurGood Thanks for the advice. I will see if I can alter it and use to represent 1000ths rather than floats.

@@Pete-pp7kt actually probably needs to be "float(myValue)/1000" at the final use point. My brain was not working..

Please check EP4 where I discuss this in detail.

You're very welcome!

@@makeryourself4435 I will check it out! Thanks.

@@makeryourself4435 I did some research on this topic, and it would require me to actually pay someone to translate my videos.. and as my hundreds of hours of work making these lessons is already completely charity, it is impossible for me to spend out of pocket to add extra language tracks.. I am sorry. The good news is you can still use the automatically generated subtitles in your preferred language, and even though it is not great, it is better than nothing. I do have many non-English speaking viewers who have found this series useful, so hopefully that is the same for you. In any case, thank you for bringing it to my attention, at least I am now aware of the capability and how to use it.

@@Pete-pp7kt Great to hear you could get it to work, well done! Actually, I have a couple of different episodes that cover how to use this menu system with an LCD display. But if you don't want to wade through the various videos, then just skip to episode 7, this has a pretty good overall demonstration on how to do this, along with some nice improvements to the system. Thanks for the question and comment!

@@ForOurGood I have watched part of episode 7, and it seems really interesting. It's definately on my watchlist. I understand the basics of lcd.setCursor, lcd.print, etc.. The problem I'm having is writing the code to scroll through the root menu, and 8 subMenu's on a 20,4 LCD.

@Pete-pp7kt I can assure you that EP7 will have everything you are looking for. Good luck!

@@Pete-pp7kt Hi Pete, I'm actually working on a project involving stepper motors and plan to make a menu system control like you did. Can I ask how you were able to apply a control system with your stepper motor? Is it to set certain parameters like speed, acceleration, rotation, steps? I currently have a stepper motor controlled by an a4988 driver and was wondering how I could implement this menu with controlling the parameters for the stepper motor.

@@neutzche Hi. In EP7, ForOurGood does an exceptional job on showing how to create a menu system where you can adjust the various paramaters. It's hands down the best menu program I have come across and I used it as a template for my menu sustem. Definately worth your time to watch it. I'm still working on my program, such as trying to figure out how to use a push button to run the program. My program starts with an if statement and counter, so the standard "if(digitalRead(buttonPin) == LOW)" does not work as the loop only runs once. Please keep in mind that I can very new to arduino and programing, so my code is very rudimentary at best. There are definately better ways at doing this, I just haven't figured it out yet. Here is a small excerpt. #include <TMC2209.h> // stepper motor driver #include <AccelStepperWithDistance.h> #define DIR_PIN 4 #define STEP_PIN 5 #define EN_PIN 6 #define MS1 9 // for Microstepping #define MS2 10 // for Microstepping AccelStepperWithDistance stepper(AccelStepperWithDistance::DRIVER, STEP_PIN, DIR_PIN); float distance = 1.25; // How far you want the stepper motor to move (i.e. 1.25mm). // Note: For whole numbers I use "int" and for decimal numbers I use "float". void setup() { pinMode (EN_PIN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite (EN_PIN, LOW); //LOW = my motor is powered, HIGH = motor not powered and rotates freely pinMode (MS1, OUTPUT); pinMode (MS2, OUTPUT); digitalWrite (MS1, LOW); digitalWrite (MS2, LOW); // My stepper motor is 200 steps per revolution at 1.8 degrees per step // 1/8 Microstep MS1=Low, MS2=LOW 200 x 8 = 1600 steps //1/16 Microstep MS1=HIGH, MS2=HIGH 200 x 16 = 3200 steps //1/32 Microstep MS1=HIGH, MS2=LOW 200 x 32 = 6400 steps //1/64 Microstep MS1=LOW, MS2=HIGH 200 x 64 = 12800 steps stepper.setSpeed(500); stepper.setMaxSpeed(1000); stepper.setAcceleration(500); stepper.setStepsPerRotation(1600); // For 1/8 microstepping stepper.setDistancePerRotation(1.25); // I used a dial indicator to measure how far my rail moved per revolution } void loop() { stepper.runRelative(distance); stepper.run(); delay(1000); } Hope this helps. Pete

This is a pretty old video, so back then Platform IO on VSC was not available. I did try a plugin for VS.net, but it was not so good, so I just stuck to programming in vanilla Arduino IDE.. which was not fun. However, a year or so ago I made the switch to PIO on VSC and never looked back, I even made a video on the topic in my Arduino Tutorial Playlist. I am happy to hear you found the video interesting, and of course thanks for leaving a comment!

Sorry mate, not sharing the code, and not simply making it easy as a copy & paste, is my intended method of teaching. Seems a lot of people like it and have had success, but some people don't like it (i.e. this video is not for those people). Ultimately it takes me at least 50 times longer to make these videos compared to the time taken to write the actual code, so I don't think it is such a big ask that people type this in themselves should they be seriously interested in learning how to code. Thanks for the comment!

@@Pete-pp7kt I am glad you like the lesson, hopefully you will find some of the later episodes useful too. I had to laugh however, the last comment I got (EP3) was telling me about how the teaching method is not so good, and how to improve it. Of course I always pay attention to any feedback and try to keep it in mind, even if I don't initially agree with it (all feedback is welcome!). But ultimately I think for the most part, it's just impossible to be all things to all people, so of course the way I do the lesson will work for some people, but not for others. Coding can be fun and very rewarding, so I wish you the best with your endeavours to learn. Thanks for the comment!

@@georgelghita3049 not offended at all, and thanks for the comment and feedback. But be aware it is actually really difficult to make these videos so they work well as a teaching tool, it can actually take 1 to 2 weeks of grinding work just to make one video, and I know they are not perfect nor work for everyone, but in general I get positive feedback, and most people deal the bits that aren't so well explained. I am sure there are many other videos out there too, and some likely a better fit for some people. If you are continuing to watch mine, I can only suggest you pause and review as need be, and keep checking the result you get matches the results I show at every step of the way. (And of course try to understand what is going on, this is a learning by doing approach) As for likes, I am not so worried about such things anymore, it will be what it is I guess, and that's just fine. I will definitely try to improve if I can for future video, but undoubtedly mistakes will always be made..

@@hilfsbereit1437 Actually, I like the look of the 3020-PRO MAX V2, the one with the linear rails on the X-axis. But Genmitsu is selling it for $500USD, which is not exactly cheap, but the value is likely there with all the new hardware. Maybe it can be found on sale somewhere at a lower price. I am happy you have found the videos useful, and thanks for the comment!

The laser I am using is a LaserTree Gold 450nm 40W-Pro 12V 20mm Fixed Focus Laser, apparently the optical power is in reality less than 10 watts, but still that works fine for me. I do show all the items I use in this video, and also many of my earlier videos too, please check them out for the all details. Thanks for leaving a comment!

@@viktorhugo8252 In episode 6 of this series, I do demonstrate how you can navigate a settings menu with only 4 buttons. It's using an older version of this code, but you could still implement that concept with this newer code too. Of course 6 buttons will always be easier to code and easier for the user. Thanks for the question!

@@blabby102 20 years ago I used to mainly get stuff from Akihabara, but now it's only useful for heatsink, cable ties and cable. Actually, there are a one or two new hobby component stores there now, but it's basically repackaged stuff from China, and since Ali-Express is cheaper, and delivery very fast, that's where I get most of my stuff from now too. RS Components, Mouser and Farnell are all good for getting IC's that are the real deal, but it's never all that cheap, but for some types of chips it's the only way to go (buy Western brand IC's from Ali-Express at your peril... 99% are fake and either barely work or don't work) For raw stock materials, originally I was getting stuff mainly from SuperViva Home, but actually what they have for machining stock is either not so great, or over priced. Tokyo Hands also used to have a good line up for stock, but they're even more expensive. I have also used some online Japanese stores to get aluminium stock in the past, places like Misumi, prices are not bad, but the shipping can be costly, so it's only practical if you need a heap of stuff. For smaller stock or plate materials, Amazon Japan is always a good place to check. Generally I always check Amazon for a wide range of stuff, sometimes it is surprising what they sell, and some good pricing too. However, I got lucky a year or so ago, and stumbled on a physical store that exclusively deals with selling stock materials, thier prices is very reasonable, and they can get almost anything, and as I can pick it up at the store there is no shipping charges, even for small orders. The stores name is ㈱西山商店, typically they only deal as a wholesaler selling to other companies, but even, so they have been very helpful with selling me what I need, and currently is my go to place for raw stock materials. Glad you found the video useful, good luck with your PCB making, and thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!

200w sounds about right for the original mini-lathe motor.. pretty gutless. For the new motor it seems I get around 500w peak in practical use, seems the ways/toolpost setup can't cope with much beyond that. Anyway, the mini-lathe has transformed from something that was somewhat annoying to use, to something I am happy to use.

@@ahmatzainulm3500 You are very welcome. And thanks for watching!

@@المخترععودةالكاطع Yes, you will need!

@@المخترععودةالكاطع sorry, small correction. I thought you were talking about the UV laser where protection glasses are a must. If your UV light has its own UV light shield, then you don't really need glasses. If you have an open UV light, and you use it a lot, then using UV protection glasses would be a good idea. Generally I don't use UV glasses during the UV curing process, as my lights are shielded.

@@ForOurGood Thank for your answer

@@muhammadkhali5 You should be able to use with any digital pin on the Arduino Uno. Just change the defines to point to the digital pin you are using. Thanks for the question!

@@RNDHVAC what is the size of your display?

@@ForOurGood 20 x4 sir

At 33:56 I define the numbers of rows as "DISP_ITEMS_ROWS = 3", if you change this to be "1" it should scroll in a single row (but I have not tested it). Good luck with your project, and please watch the video carefully and try to understand the best you can, if you can understand it well, then it should be easy enough to modify this code to fit most display style requirements.

@@ForOurGood I've tried that it worked but i also wanted to place my menu in the 4th row i have change things and it keep start in second row how do i change that

@@RNDHVAC Ok, so I understand you have got the single row scrolling menu working on the second row, but you want it on the 4th. The "menuItemPrintable" routine not only returns a positive state if the item is to be printed, but it is also responsible for locating the cursor. So the easiest way to push it down would be to add "+2" to the calculation for the Y-pos in the "lcd.setCursor" routine. Ideally you would be better adding a define for this offset value, and then adding this define value as opposed to hard coding the offset value.

@@enkidu9989 think I have seen that before. I think they lay down a tape, laser cut around the pads, remove the unwanted tape, spray the paint and let it dry, and then use something to dissolve the tape... Do a search on TH-cam and you will find it. I think it was something like that.

@@enkidu9989 There are literally endless ways to do this, and I have been told by others that they do the mask just as you mentioned here, so I guess that works too. This is actually an early episode in my PCB series, if you are interested in seeing how the development process progressed, then I suggest you keep watching the series in order. If you just want to see where I am at now, then skip to my most recent episode in the series. The most recent version of my process actually gives some impressive results, especially if you consider where I started with all this. Even so, I still have a few new things I want to try, not sure if it will be better than what I am already doing, but you won't know if you never try! Good luck with your PCB making process, and thanks for watching and leaving a comment!

TH-cam is god of killing peoples motivation to actually make videos like this.. take a month to make a video that gets a few hundred views.. you get the idea.. I have always said this is by design, TH-cam does this so people make them free content, then those people disappear, and because there will always be the next sucker ready to waste their time for the unobtainable TH-cam success, TH-cam always wins... Anyway, it is what it is, I am having a small hiatus while a restore a motorcycle, and there is no way I am making a video about that for noone to watch.. but I will likely be back with something later in the year (after I somewhat forget what a total waste of time making these videos are) Thanks for the nice comment however!

@@ForOurGood you know I was searching for a in-depth technical video like your for ever. All the search results are from big time TH-camrs with millions of view that are absolute garbage. Only reason I found you because I set my search filters to long form over 20min vid. Your pcbs, 3d designing and methodology of approach for problem solving is better than I have ever seen and strongly believe should be something that they should teach in school. Also over complicating/ astronomically over engineering very simple things is very close to my heart as that’s my exact approach. (Built a soldering station that can calibrate and save multiple irons with varying characteristics and automagic self calibration. Running on a stm32h7 lol) only ever use one iron. Your pcbs are hand down the best I have ever seen. I am absolutely following on your foot steps. Also just binged the entirety of 60 vids. Hope soon people finds you and your channel blows up. Your video quality is superb. In every aspects.

@@eross21 The brand of the green UV resin is "WNB". You can find it on Ali-Express. It is shiny after removing the silkscreen, but after UV exposure it goes a little matt. I think it looks pretty good, better than shiny.

@@Lew114 Not, not for this method. Generally I try to avoid interrupts, using them only when they are absolutely necessary.

@@zacharyreed8523 Thanks for watching and thanks for your questions. 1) The great thing about this menu structure is that there really are not any limitations. If you want to start the application at the operating screen, then just set the menu start point to be the operating screen. You can then just have a button to go to the settings list page (for example). Please see EP6 where I do exactly that for a similar application. 2) I have a number of videos showing how to do just this, so please check them ALL out ;-) 3) I demonstrate how to do this in EP4, EP6 & EP7 (in different flavours) If you watch EP11 of my mini-lathe series, you can see where I use this exact menu structure for a complex graphics display. Unfortunately I have not had the time to do a video on graphics displays, but it is much the same as for the LCD displays (once you get it to the stage of printing text to the screen that is).

@@ProactiveExcellence thanks for watching and thanks for the question. Actually it features in a couple of my later videos, check them out if you're interested.

Thanks for taking time to leave the info for everyone. Actually I made this video before I really started using the ESP32, so I didn't know about the special issues. However on my latest Menu coding video I had a viewer ask me about using it with ESP32, so I tried it, and noticed the special adaptations needed for the EEPROM. I also have a community post about this.. maybe I will add a pinned comment in this video later to point people to that info too.

Oh, and on the Serial.Printf point, yes I am aware of this function, seems like 101 type of an item for anyone learning C properly (admittedly I never learnt C properly). But in Arduinoland, the implementation is patchy, inconsistent, and in some cases takes up too much memory if you include it in the compile options. I did actually mess around with it for a while, but in the end I found it too frustrating to use. My objective is always to try to keep the code clean, but it's also to try and keep the code as easily transportable as possible between different microcontrollers, and by doing so improving reusability. So for now I live a coding life without adequate access to Serial.PrintF.. If I was only using ESP32 however, I likely would be saying something different.

@@TeslaFactory Actually it's my most viewed video, so I guess it is a good fit for some people. But taking over 2-years just to get 20K views, plainly indicates that other similar videos must do a far better job for a wider audience. It is what it is! Anyway, I'm always happy to hear that it was useful to someone. So thanks for taking the time to comment!

@@stephanc7192 Hey thanks! I am glad you found it useful 😃

@@Segphalt if that's a real 3W optical power laser, it should be enough to remove the resin. Maybe a little weak to cut the board, but you could do that a different way.