Great tip on checking the circuit on a vehicle!! I'm going to have to make one of those loops, it will make it soooo much easier than trying to squeeze the clamp into tight spaces to get around the wire. Overall, very helpful video.
Very useful. I picked up two good things from this. Resistance check a fuse rather than continuity. That makes a lot of sense, that may have caught me out in the past. The fuse loop, how bloody useful is that! I am not the only one in the comments to mention it. I have only just learned of AC/DC clamp meters, a video on "Britannica Restoration" showed how useful they are on vehicles. This is the first video I have seen of yours, subbed on the back of it. You make it easy for none professionals to follow.
Good job! I thought I was watching my normal electronics content, and when I looked for more videos from this channel I didn't know so well, I learned it was you! Excellent job! 😀 Well done!! 😄
Hi @@Fee.1 this is where capacitive and inductive loads draw more current at switch on. Capacitive, where the potential difference (voltage) in the capacitor differs from the supplied voltage at the instance of switch on, therefore causing current to flow into the capacitor. And inductive where there is no initial magnetic field initially that builds quickly with high initial current. Motors have an opposing magnetic force to the inductor (motor coil) that resists magnetic forces in the coil, thereby causing movement of either the coil or magnet (connected to rotor). Where Motors tend to demand 3 to 5 times more current to get them moving. Just off the top of my head, but hope that helps, that's how I think of it anyway. I'm receptive to feedback 😀
Neil Devonshire - Dev255 so, here’s my question. How many AC + DC current clamp meters do you have that measure inrush? Whatever the answer. Can you please try to see if/which of them even allow you to use the inrush mode with DC current? And of those that do, if any, how do the results look
@@Fee.1 I like the question, a Fluke 381 multimeter could read Inrush (surge) current (See www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/clamp-meters/how-and-why-to-measure-inrush-current). To see the current waveform, you could use a low resistance high Wattage resistor (0.1 ohms) in series with the inductive load and measure the voltage across the resistor on a storage oscilloscope. This will be a voltage proportional to the current (mostly, although even wire is reactive) where you would then be able to see the current drawn at any given moment and then calculate it using ohms law. Unfortunately, my meters don't read inrush :-(
Of those two meters, the non clamp meter has a much higher safety rating than the clamp meter. I own an almost identical DC clamp meter (it's a Uni-T but branded Tenma, painted orange and sold through CPC/Farnell) and am always quite reluctant to use it on anything mains. Uni-T are not known for making meters with the best Cat ratings! Often the fuses on a 1000V meter are only 250V fuses for instance, not exactly confidence inspiring. For higher energy stuff (distribution boards, anything with high voltage batteries or capacitors) I use a CEM 9929 meter (again sold through CPC under their own brand but it's the same as an Amecal or Extech) and an RS Pro 156B clamp (which is an Appa/Amprobe/Seaward). The clamp has the huge advantage of showing both AC and DC power (not just current), logging and it will put a graph on your phone. It's 5 times the price of the Uni-T but it's 5 times the meter.
Very nice video, I am a beginner and have a basic multimeter which measures V, A (dc only) and other basic things. I noticed that it doesn't have a A (ac) mode so I am thinking to buy another multimeter probably with a clamp as it seems to be lot easier, I will use it to measure house appliances power consumption to plan for better power savings, Any suggestions, Indian standard power is 220v and I dont need any heavy duty or super accurate device, so I am planning to get a cheap one (as i am a student and dont earn).
Hi, If you are just measuring mains current, pretty much any clamp meter would be able to read it regardless of the voltage, where thes UT204A that I use also measures DC current (handy for vehicles). The clamp meter is the safest option if you are just starting out measuring mains current and most cheap clamp meters will work well. Just remember that in order to measure current, you need to only clamp one individual wire (live or neutral) as if you clamp around both it will cancel itself out. I hope that helps
After seeing this video i am after the clamp meter.. Is UT204+ is good to buy over multimeter ?? I need both ac dc to check the power and also to test the components.. what do u suggest for me ? Planning to buy uni-t UT204+ clamp meter .. my one of friend had bought sunshine DT-17N for mobile repairing course and he says me to go for multimeter..
Hi, my apologies for the late reply, we have just moved house. The UT204+ is a good meter that will measure both AC and DC current, although has an accuracy of +/- 2.5%, where a multimeter is much more accurate as it is part of the circuit. There are positive and negative points for both, where the multimeter is more accurate, it can't read high currents, has to be put in the circuit and its fuse is easily blown with over current. The clamp meter is better for quick readings where you don't have to turn off equipment, is much safer, can read higher values and doesn't require additional leads to be connected, although if you need accurate readings then the multimeter is best. I prefer having both with me so I have the best of both worlds. I hope that helps.
Hi again@@Fee.1, sorry just spotted your other messages, I have a couple of current projects that I'm working on, just click/tap my icon for all my other videos on my TH-cam channel 👍
Neil, I would like a power supply unit somewhat similar to the one in your video, I don't need anything high tech so very much budget range would be fine, can you recommend something for me please. Cheers and thanks.
Hi, I would recommend Duratool for budget range, they sell them at CPC, here is the search I did cpc.farnell.com/w/c/test-equipment/bench-power-supplies-sources-loads/bench-top-power-supplies/prl/results?sort=P_PRICE If your budget can stretch a little further, this one should work well for most needs cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03234/power-supply-1ch-30v-5a-adjustable/dp/IN08001 Mine cost over £100 from Maplin Electronics many years ago and has worked well throughout. I hope that helps.
Hi Fee, yes here is a 1 day link discord.gg/JVbnjD server named Dev255, others can join too if they like, there is only me and a couple of my Patrons on it at the moment as I am fairly new to it. Thank you, I like to put across my own experiences 😀
Like others I have now learned to trust resistance as opposed to continuity when fuse testing. Next I plan to make fuse test leads for both standard and mini fuses, great idea. Can I ask what gauge of cable you used for your fuse test leads ? I'm just starting out learning to use DMM's, this was so very helpful, and I really appreciate the safety tips. If you were to recommend an ac\dc clamp meter today what would you suggest at around the £80 mark, I fully understand if you prefer not to answer that question. Liked and subscribed, and thank you.
Hi, I would recommend 12 or even 10 AWG due to the lower resistance and greater current carrying capabilities, 12 for 20A and 10 for 30A. To be fair, they are all fairly accurate and useable where I would always go either Fluke or Uni T, although Fluke are more expensive, therefore the UT204R comes in at 72.90 from Tester.co.uk. Thank you for your like and subscription
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Hi Neil, I decided upon the Uni-T ut210e clamp meter, at £42.00 I was able to save a wee bit of money for other electrical equipment, hopefully it will do all that I need it to.
My unit 203+ isnt measuring any amps till 0.2 ampere on AC. After that it is giving results. On DC it is working fine even on low amps. Plz suggest me solution, i bought it new
The specifications in the manual shows the 40A range reading 0.01A so I don't know why this happens to yours. First, try the advice in the Manual as follows: - Hold the Meter tight, do not release. The Hall components are very sensitive not only to the magnet but also to heat and machines reaction force. Any shock will cause a change in reading in the short time. Follow the below procedure to measure more precise current: l. Hold the Meter tight and press the lever to open the transformer jaw. Center the conductor within the transformer jaws, then release the Meter slowly until the transformer jaw is completely closed. Make sure the conductor to be tested is placed at the center of the transformer jaw, otherwise it will cause +1.0% deviation based on the stated accuracy. 2. Remove the transformer jaw. 3. Press REL(Delta) to display zero. 4. Repeat the above 1. procedure. 5. The obtained reading will be more precise. I haven't got any AC circuits to test mine below 200mA at the moment, plus mine is a UT204A. If the above doesn't work the next step could be to contact Uni-T or your supplier. You may have a faulty one. Hopefully, this will give you a way forward.
Hi, its been very reliable for nearly 10 years, although a component failed in it a few months back that I had to replace (mains ferrite core). I bought my PSU from Maplin so may not be available now. I'd recommend something like this: - cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03234/power-supply-1ch-30v-5a-adjustable/dp/IN0800162?mckv=s2kH73Uow_dc|pcrid|224684760605|kword||match||plid||slid||product|IN08001|pgrid|42524690290|ptaid|aud-575645359148:pla-759994800392|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=CjwKCAiA44LzBRB-EiwA-jJipH8scAOeEfHXICHHJNATOkhHfE7uNgbLOL5R6-Ik51ai0rELDHCOYRoCAc4QAvD_BwE
I believe multimeters have more features and have been around for a lot longer, clamp meters were probably dedicated pieces of current measuring kit that had extras added to them such as capacitance, voltage, temp, etc. I prefer to have both on me if doing a task
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Do that make the clamp meters less accurate or anything, as it is originally a current measuring instrument? Thankyou anyways.
@@tubfragr2270 I find my multimeter is more accurate, especially if you need to measure a few mA's, but you do have to break the circuit and it only measures up to 10A. My clamp meter is a fairly entry level one where you can get decent accuracy by spending a bit more. The clamp meter uses a hall effect sensor for DC current and this can be affected by other nearby currents. I would therefore recommend the multimeter for small current measurements and the clamp meter for larger measurements. It's worth noting that if you want to measure DC currents with a clamp meter, then you have to buy a clamp meter with DC current range as most are only AC capable. Hope that helps.
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer I do find the current offerings of clamp multimeters more complete and useful esp. with the more expensive true rms ones. But I think that its still also cumbersome to use because you would still need to isolate the Line and Nuetral out to clamp it.which means that you most likely need to carry around a special test receptacles to test appliances with removable plugs or break open the cabinet of whatever appliances you need to take measurement to access its inlet terminal eg. an installed ac unit
Great tip on checking the circuit on a vehicle!! I'm going to have to make one of those loops, it will make it soooo much easier than trying to squeeze the clamp into tight spaces to get around the wire. Overall, very helpful video.
Thank you, glad you liked the video and hope it helps you. 😀👍
Good video for those who do not have a lot of experience with multimeters and clamp meters. Well done, Neil.
Thank you Fred 👍
Very useful.
I picked up two good things from this.
Resistance check a fuse rather than continuity. That makes a lot of sense, that may have caught me out in the past.
The fuse loop, how bloody useful is that! I am not the only one in the comments to mention it.
I have only just learned of AC/DC clamp meters, a video on "Britannica Restoration" showed how useful they are on vehicles.
This is the first video I have seen of yours, subbed on the back of it. You make it easy for none professionals to follow.
Thank you, glad you found it useful, the fuse loop really helps you see the meter while switching circuits on in a car. Cheers for the sub
Good job! I thought I was watching my normal electronics content, and when I looked for more videos from this channel I didn't know so well, I learned it was you!
Excellent job! 😀 Well done!! 😄
Thank you, I am thinking of the next one to do, have you any suggestions on content?
Neil Devonshire - Dev255 i do. How familiar are you win inrush current
Hi @@Fee.1 this is where capacitive and inductive loads draw more current at switch on. Capacitive, where the potential difference (voltage) in the capacitor differs from the supplied voltage at the instance of switch on, therefore causing current to flow into the capacitor. And inductive where there is no initial magnetic field initially that builds quickly with high initial current. Motors have an opposing magnetic force to the inductor (motor coil) that resists magnetic forces in the coil, thereby causing movement of either the coil or magnet (connected to rotor). Where Motors tend to demand 3 to 5 times more current to get them moving. Just off the top of my head, but hope that helps, that's how I think of it anyway. I'm receptive to feedback 😀
Neil Devonshire - Dev255 so, here’s my question. How many AC + DC current clamp meters do you have that measure inrush? Whatever the answer. Can you please try to see if/which of them even allow you to use the inrush mode with DC current? And of those that do, if any, how do the results look
@@Fee.1 I like the question, a Fluke 381 multimeter could read Inrush (surge) current (See www.fluke.com/en-gb/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/clamp-meters/how-and-why-to-measure-inrush-current). To see the current waveform, you could use a low resistance high Wattage resistor (0.1 ohms) in series with the inductive load and measure the voltage across the resistor on a storage oscilloscope. This will be a voltage proportional to the current (mostly, although even wire is reactive) where you would then be able to see the current drawn at any given moment and then calculate it using ohms law. Unfortunately, my meters don't read inrush :-(
What a great video. Very easy explained
Thank you.
Love the fuse test tip
Thank you, I hope it comes in useful for you.
Of those two meters, the non clamp meter has a much higher safety rating than the clamp meter.
I own an almost identical DC clamp meter (it's a Uni-T but branded Tenma, painted orange and sold through CPC/Farnell) and am always quite reluctant to use it on anything mains. Uni-T are not known for making meters with the best Cat ratings! Often the fuses on a 1000V meter are only 250V fuses for instance, not exactly confidence inspiring.
For higher energy stuff (distribution boards, anything with high voltage batteries or capacitors) I use a CEM 9929 meter (again sold through CPC under their own brand but it's the same as an Amecal or Extech) and an RS Pro 156B clamp (which is an Appa/Amprobe/Seaward). The clamp has the huge advantage of showing both AC and DC power (not just current), logging and it will put a graph on your phone. It's 5 times the price of the Uni-T but it's 5 times the meter.
Hi Tom, that's handy info for the phone logging type, I may look into that one, helps with mare hands free operation.
great video. excellent accompaniment and methodically arranged logic. Cheers and thanks!
Thank you GJ 🙂
Excellent, thanks for posting
You're welcome, more coming soon, hopefully one a week, life permitting
Thanks for a very concise explanation
No dramas, glad you liked it.
Very helpful video - thanks
Thank you for your comment 👍
Very nice video,
I am a beginner and have a basic multimeter which measures V, A (dc only) and other basic things.
I noticed that it doesn't have a A (ac) mode so I am thinking to buy another multimeter probably with a clamp as it seems to be lot easier, I will use it to measure house appliances power consumption to plan for better power savings,
Any suggestions, Indian standard power is 220v and I dont need any heavy duty or super accurate device, so I am planning to get a cheap one (as i am a student and dont earn).
Hi,
If you are just measuring mains current, pretty much any clamp meter would be able to read it regardless of the voltage, where thes UT204A that I use also measures DC current (handy for vehicles). The clamp meter is the safest option if you are just starting out measuring mains current and most cheap clamp meters will work well. Just remember that in order to measure current, you need to only clamp one individual wire (live or neutral) as if you clamp around both it will cancel itself out. I hope that helps
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer thankyou for reply, really helpful. 🙂
That was a very good video 👍 thanks
You're welcome 👍
Very interesting video!
Thank you, I tried to cover the safety aspects too, something that can get missed
After seeing this video i am after the clamp meter.. Is UT204+ is good to buy over multimeter ?? I need both ac dc to check the power and also to test the components.. what do u suggest for me ?
Planning to buy uni-t UT204+ clamp meter .. my one of friend had bought sunshine DT-17N for mobile repairing course and he says me to go for multimeter..
Hi, my apologies for the late reply, we have just moved house. The UT204+ is a good meter that will measure both AC and DC current, although has an accuracy of +/- 2.5%, where a multimeter is much more accurate as it is part of the circuit. There are positive and negative points for both, where the multimeter is more accurate, it can't read high currents, has to be put in the circuit and its fuse is easily blown with over current. The clamp meter is better for quick readings where you don't have to turn off equipment, is much safer, can read higher values and doesn't require additional leads to be connected, although if you need accurate readings then the multimeter is best. I prefer having both with me so I have the best of both worlds. I hope that helps.
DL 49 all you could need . Got mine free from a misguided tech left it at my house , called no answer ..
Misguided.
Any update on the car project? Great video!
Thank you, yes I am currently manually milling out some parts on the dining room table :-)
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer 😂😂Can't wait to watch a video on that. Good luck!!
joao homer was there ever a video? What was he making? For what car?
Hi again@@Fee.1, sorry just spotted your other messages, I have a couple of current projects that I'm working on, just click/tap my icon for all my other videos on my TH-cam channel 👍
Neil, I would like a power supply unit somewhat similar to the one in your video, I don't need anything high tech so very much budget range would be fine, can you recommend something for me please.
Cheers and thanks.
Hi, I would recommend Duratool for budget range, they sell them at CPC, here is the search I did cpc.farnell.com/w/c/test-equipment/bench-power-supplies-sources-loads/bench-top-power-supplies/prl/results?sort=P_PRICE
If your budget can stretch a little further, this one should work well for most needs cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03234/power-supply-1ch-30v-5a-adjustable/dp/IN08001
Mine cost over £100 from Maplin Electronics many years ago and has worked well throughout.
I hope that helps.
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Many thanks Neil 👍
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Much appreciated Neil, 👍
Do you have a discord? Thanks for the video, it was nice to see something that wasn’t a rehash
Hi Fee, yes here is a 1 day link discord.gg/JVbnjD server named Dev255, others can join too if they like, there is only me and a couple of my Patrons on it at the moment as I am fairly new to it. Thank you, I like to put across my own experiences 😀
Ty for sharing
Your welcome 👍
Quick question what type of clamp meter is the one in this specific video
Hi Albert, it's an AC and DC type clamp meter, a lot of clamp meters won't measure DC so you'll need to specify this if you need one to measure DC
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer oh okay and yes I would need one that measures both AC and DC
Like others I have now learned to trust resistance as opposed to continuity when fuse testing.
Next I plan to make fuse test leads for both standard and mini fuses, great idea.
Can I ask what gauge of cable you used for your fuse test leads ?
I'm just starting out learning to use DMM's, this was so very helpful, and I really appreciate the safety tips.
If you were to recommend an ac\dc clamp meter today what would you suggest at around the £80 mark, I fully understand if you prefer not to answer that question.
Liked and subscribed, and thank you.
Hi, I would recommend 12 or even 10 AWG due to the lower resistance and greater current carrying capabilities, 12 for 20A and 10 for 30A.
To be fair, they are all fairly accurate and useable where I would always go either Fluke or Uni T, although Fluke are more expensive, therefore the UT204R comes in at 72.90 from Tester.co.uk.
Thank you for your like and subscription
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Hi Neil, I decided upon the Uni-T ut210e clamp meter, at £42.00 I was able to save a wee bit of money for other electrical equipment, hopefully it will do all that I need it to.
@@rorymax4904 Glad to hear you got one at a good price.
My unit 203+ isnt measuring any amps till 0.2 ampere on AC. After that it is giving results. On DC it is working fine even on low amps.
Plz suggest me solution, i bought it new
The specifications in the manual shows the 40A range reading 0.01A so I don't know why this happens to yours.
First, try the advice in the Manual as follows: -
Hold the Meter tight, do not release. The Hall components are very sensitive not only to the magnet but also to heat and machines reaction force. Any shock will cause a change in reading in the short time. Follow the below procedure to measure more precise current:
l. Hold the Meter tight and press the lever to open the transformer jaw. Center the conductor within the transformer jaws, then release the Meter slowly until the transformer jaw is completely closed. Make sure the conductor to be tested is placed at the center of the transformer jaw, otherwise it will cause +1.0% deviation based on the stated accuracy.
2. Remove the transformer jaw.
3. Press REL(Delta) to display zero.
4. Repeat the above 1. procedure.
5. The obtained reading will be more precise.
I haven't got any AC circuits to test mine below 200mA at the moment, plus mine is a UT204A.
If the above doesn't work the next step could be to contact Uni-T or your supplier. You may have a faulty one.
Hopefully, this will give you a way forward.
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer thanks sir for your detailed reply. i tried it, but no vain. may be it is faulty. no sensitive at all for low AC amps.
@@awishhamza6368 it may be worth asking the company for their advice in measuring below 200mA, they may help you further.
No problem, good luck.
is your lab psu good? could you share a link
Hi, its been very reliable for nearly 10 years, although a component failed in it a few months back that I had to replace (mains ferrite core). I bought my PSU from Maplin so may not be available now. I'd recommend something like this: -
cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03234/power-supply-1ch-30v-5a-adjustable/dp/IN0800162?mckv=s2kH73Uow_dc|pcrid|224684760605|kword||match||plid||slid||product|IN08001|pgrid|42524690290|ptaid|aud-575645359148:pla-759994800392|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=CjwKCAiA44LzBRB-EiwA-jJipH8scAOeEfHXICHHJNATOkhHfE7uNgbLOL5R6-Ik51ai0rELDHCOYRoCAc4QAvD_BwE
If clamp meter is better, then why does normal digital meters exist when clamp meters are way more safe and easy to use.
I believe multimeters have more features and have been around for a lot longer, clamp meters were probably dedicated pieces of current measuring kit that had extras added to them such as capacitance, voltage, temp, etc. I prefer to have both on me if doing a task
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer Do that make the clamp meters less accurate or anything, as it is originally a current measuring instrument? Thankyou anyways.
@@tubfragr2270 I find my multimeter is more accurate, especially if you need to measure a few mA's, but you do have to break the circuit and it only measures up to 10A. My clamp meter is a fairly entry level one where you can get decent accuracy by spending a bit more. The clamp meter uses a hall effect sensor for DC current and this can be affected by other nearby currents. I would therefore recommend the multimeter for small current measurements and the clamp meter for larger measurements. It's worth noting that if you want to measure DC currents with a clamp meter, then you have to buy a clamp meter with DC current range as most are only AC capable. Hope that helps.
@@TheSolarPoweredEngineer I do find the current offerings of clamp multimeters more complete and useful esp. with the more expensive true rms ones. But I think that its still also cumbersome to use because you would still need to isolate the Line and Nuetral out to clamp it.which means that you most likely need to carry around a special test receptacles to test appliances with removable plugs or break open the cabinet of whatever appliances you need to take measurement to access its inlet terminal eg. an installed ac unit