It is true RMS. I measured the voltage on my modified sine wave inverter and it showed the correct value. My other non true RMS meters give a false lower reading due to the non pure sine wave. I bought one for work as it means I no longer need to carry a separate dmm, volt stick, clamp meter and digital thermometer. Now I will have all four in my pocket and no more having to look for a 9v battery as all my other meters take 9v ones. I bought mine after seeing TRX bench's review, but good to see this one is positive too.
theres no fuse because its clamp meter and they don't allow huge currents through the probes. clam meters are handy as hell to have. just make sure when you buy yours that it measures both AC & DC currents before you order "LIKE ME" so im looking for a new that will do both currents... still, the one i have is great and i use it more than my other meters just because of that handy nice bag it comes with. mine is a MUST-TOOL MT666 but i thought it was their other model that did what i wanted.. ALWAYS READ THE STATS : (
Just paid $38 bucks American for this thing on Amazon. Well worth the money!! I added the "better" lead set for another $13. I guess based on your tear down though, one would want to consider fused leads.
One of the best reviews I have spent time on... KAIWEETS HT206D had to zoom on video to see that~? - the 'beauty of these things'... is that they generally do not give super accurate Amps readings(clamp) - they normally do not read Amps lower than 40 or 50 and some of them 60... You did show that it will read low Amps , that is a plus and why I am still looking at reviews, this is a major point in my purchasing(provided all the rest is also up to snuff)
Very good and descriptive video with clear explanation of all the test results. Thanks for your time . I’m happy I bought one even before I saw this video. All the best to you
19:07 one of the best reasons to buy a clamp meter and why they are so handy... I'm a little disappointed you didn't mention which meter had the better clamping force...🤣🤣🤣 All in all not a terrible meter. Great video as always!!!
I recently purchased this clamp-on meter. I perform calibration & repair on a wide range general purpose (GPETE) test equipment as well as Special Purpose Test Equipment (SPETRL). In the process of checking the accuracy against FLUKE equipment of the same qualifications, it either meets or exceeds their specs for quite a bit less money. I'm not sure if this will take the same punishment as a FLUKE, but for the home or general bench technician, it is well worth the money.
I find the best test of the thermometer is to put it in the freezer and close the door. It will give you a general Idea if your freezer or refrigerator works and is cooling properly. Mine might say -2 and the freezer is actually-3 on my fluke. Big deal it’s working. Close enough for me. I also use paired it up with an ac line splitter so I don’t have to dissemble appliances to isolate the wires. I check If something sounds like it’s failing. Works great for that. You are braver than me. No way I’m checking 600 volts AC with it though. Every homeowner should have one. Just for general voltage checks before you electrocute yourself.
Ice bath temperature reference is a standard for temperature measurement evaluation. It should be pure ish water and ice, and the mixture rapidly stirred to maintain equilibrium.
Excellent review. I basically do electrical work and am looking for a very reliable NCV meter. I have a couple of the handheld pen type detectors but have been let down several times when the unit turned on and went off and I relied on the reading. I am stuck between the UNI T 210 and the Kaiweets 206. Can you please let me know which of these would you recommend. The Kaiweets has a dedicated NCV button which is driving me towards it apart from a very long warranty. However if the UNI T is more reliable then would go there. Thanks.
At the price point, either are decent meters. The Kaiweets can clamp around larger conductors, if that is important to you. On the other hand, the UNI-T is smaller and takes up less space in your tool kit (and is pretty much pocket sized).
Fun stuff. I've had a rash of meters just going bad over the last year. My fluke won't change from DC to AC and the screen is dying. The switches are going wonky on my big Centech. I'm definitely in the market. I've never seen that "universal" looking 220v plug before. If I've seen that "plus" looking plate before, it's been a long time. It would be handy to have a set of those. I'm going to keep an eye out.
My only clamp meter is a cheap little thing like this, handy for quick tests and troubleshooting household electrics / appliances. Lacks DC Amps though, so currently (ho ho) having to introduce a probe meter into circuit for those measurements. Think it's time to choose the next addition to my modest test gear collection. Thank you for the excuse. 😁
Do you work for one of the cell phone carriers? The battery banks and copper busses/thick wiring reminds me of central hub...the name escapes me. I used to draft construction drawings of cell tower sites.
Typically ice bath is used as a 0 Deg C calibration test point. Put a goodly amount of ice in the water using an insulated container and stir vigorously to maintain equilibrium.
I’m guessing that the video clip right after the one you shot in the battery room, is from the inverter room. But where in the UPS installation were you able to measure the 107.1A/600V-AC? The only guess I can come up with, is that you measured the utility power right before it enters the main switch for the battery charging system. (While recharging the batteries.) But I don’t know much about Canadian electrical power distribution system, except for typical residential areas.. Would you (or anyone else who knows) mind elaborating? ALSO! Thanks for this video, I appreciate your down-to-earth demo & comparison style. (☺️It’s simple, to the point, and easy to understand.) 🎉 Happy New Year! 73’ de OZ2BO (Vejle, Denmark🇩🇰)
That was the generator transfer panel. It's about the only place I could get that close with relative safety. That is essentially the main utility feed near the building power entrance. At that point, it's 3 phase 600 volts. Relatively common for large commercial and smaller industrial installations. Further inside the facility there are transformers that bring it down to either 208V 3phase, or the more common 120/240 volts that is usual in North America.
hello, I have an ammeter similar to the one that the diode scale is beeping directly, could you give me a tip on which component could be the defect, I did not find the electrical schematic of it.
Great video.. i think you missed one important and very easy to test feature.. the response time of the beep on the continuity tester. Nothing drives me more nuts than a tester that beeps 1 or 2 seconds after probe makes contact. It makes you wonder if there's a loose wire or fautly solder joint somewhere.. Also here's a tip, test the thermo ccouples with water and ice and also at boiling... that way you get 0°C and 100°C
@@pileofstuff Hmm, it would be listed in the manual or stamped on the unit if it were. So I guess we could assume it’s not. Great video otherwise, keep up the good work. Mahalo
@@pileofstuff I found a couple of surprisingly easy ways of testing for RMS vs. non-RMS (at least when it comes to voltage) on Dave Jones’ EEVBLOG forum: www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/how-can-i-test-if-a-dmm-is-reading-in-true-rms/ (I think this would be an interesting experiment to make a video about. 😏)
You must have big pants to fit the balls you have to plug a Chinese meter into 600V directly! I really liked my Kaiweets meter(s) but I would be clenching hard even plugging a Fluke into 600v!
It is true RMS. I measured the voltage on my modified sine wave inverter and it showed the correct value. My other non true RMS meters give a false lower reading due to the non pure sine wave.
I bought one for work as it means I no longer need to carry a separate dmm, volt stick, clamp meter and digital thermometer. Now I will have all four in my pocket and no more having to look for a 9v battery as all my other meters take 9v ones. I bought mine after seeing TRX bench's review, but good to see this one is positive too.
theres no fuse because its clamp meter and they don't allow huge currents through the probes. clam meters are handy as hell to have. just make sure when you buy yours that it measures both AC & DC currents before you order "LIKE ME" so im looking for a new that will do both currents... still, the one i have is great and i use it more than my other meters just because of that handy nice bag it comes with. mine is a MUST-TOOL MT666 but i thought it was their other model that did what i wanted..
ALWAYS READ THE STATS : (
Just paid $38 bucks American for this thing on Amazon. Well worth the money!! I added the "better" lead set for another $13. I guess based on your tear down though, one would want to consider fused leads.
One of the best reviews I have spent time on... KAIWEETS HT206D had to zoom on video to see that~?
- the 'beauty of these things'... is that they generally do not give super accurate Amps readings(clamp)
- they normally do not read Amps lower than 40 or 50 and some of them 60... You did show that it will read low Amps , that is a plus and why I am still looking at reviews, this is a major point in my purchasing(provided all the rest is also up to snuff)
Very good and descriptive video with clear explanation of all the test results. Thanks for your time . I’m happy I bought one even before I saw this video. All the best to you
I just order one Il recive it on saturday...I like all the accessories I hope I dont regret buying it...
Some people say clamp meter don't need fuse, well off course it does since nowadays clamp meter built in capacitance mode.
19:07 one of the best reasons to buy a clamp meter and why they are so handy... I'm a little disappointed you didn't mention which meter had the better clamping force...🤣🤣🤣
All in all not a terrible meter. Great video as always!!!
I recently purchased this clamp-on meter. I perform calibration & repair on a wide range general purpose (GPETE) test equipment as well as Special Purpose Test Equipment (SPETRL).
In the process of checking the accuracy against FLUKE equipment of the same qualifications, it either meets or exceeds their specs for quite a bit less money. I'm not sure if this will take the same punishment as a FLUKE, but for the home or general bench technician, it is well worth the money.
That is what i have found with most of the Kaiweets meters. Solid accuracy, but not nescessarily "industrial strength" mechanically.
I find the best test of the thermometer is to put it in the freezer and close the door. It will give you a general Idea if your freezer or refrigerator works and is cooling properly. Mine might say -2 and the freezer is actually-3 on my fluke. Big deal it’s working. Close enough for me. I also use paired it up with an ac line splitter so I don’t have to dissemble appliances to isolate the wires. I check If something sounds like it’s failing. Works great for that. You are braver than me. No way I’m checking 600 volts AC with it though. Every homeowner should have one. Just for general voltage checks before you electrocute yourself.
Note that I was using one hand only to hold both probes for that 600V test, and I wasn't touching anything else.
Ice bath temperature reference is a standard for temperature measurement evaluation. It should be pure ish water and ice, and the mixture rapidly stirred to maintain equilibrium.
Excellent review. I basically do electrical work and am looking for a very reliable NCV meter. I have a couple of the handheld pen type detectors but have been let down several times when the unit turned on and went off and I relied on the reading. I am stuck between the UNI T 210 and the Kaiweets 206. Can you please let me know which of these would you recommend. The Kaiweets has a dedicated NCV button which is driving me towards it apart from a very long warranty. However if the UNI T is more reliable then would go there. Thanks.
At the price point, either are decent meters.
The Kaiweets can clamp around larger conductors, if that is important to you.
On the other hand, the UNI-T is smaller and takes up less space in your tool kit (and is pretty much pocket sized).
Fun stuff. I've had a rash of meters just going bad over the last year. My fluke won't change from DC to AC and the screen is dying. The switches are going wonky on my big Centech. I'm definitely in the market.
I've never seen that "universal" looking 220v plug before. If I've seen that "plus" looking plate before, it's been a long time. It would be handy to have a set of those. I'm going to keep an eye out.
Kaiweets also produce a very good green laser system...and many other products too.
I bought HABOTEST HT206D @ 27$ it's the same as the Kaiweets HT206D. It's amazing meter for the money n it's damn accurate
Exactly what I was looking for, a comparison with the UT210E... THANK YOU!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for stopping by.
Hi what is the low pass filter for?
Great vid btw!
I just got one of these
Thanks just bought a kaiweet clamp meter27£ Amazon uk .need use on my vw t4 campervan and around house.great review bud 😀
My only clamp meter is a cheap little thing like this, handy for quick tests and troubleshooting household electrics / appliances. Lacks DC Amps though, so currently (ho ho) having to introduce a probe meter into circuit for those measurements. Think it's time to choose the next addition to my modest test gear collection. Thank you for the excuse. 😁
Do you work for one of the cell phone carriers? The battery banks and copper busses/thick wiring reminds me of central hub...the name escapes me. I used to draft construction drawings of cell tower sites.
Boiling water should be a reasonable test point for the temp.
Have to be distilled water and factor in local atmospheric pressure.
A blob of liquid solder would produce a more stable reading than touching the probe to the soldering iron body.
Typically ice bath is used as a 0 Deg C calibration test point. Put a goodly amount of ice in the water using an insulated container and stir vigorously to maintain equilibrium.
Excellent review - I've been considering this meter, especially for automotive use.
thanks for share, which one would you perfer UNI-T or Kaiweets &why
Hi! All brands and models vary in measurements? can you test other brands? Greetings from Brazil!
On sale right now! 43 and change plus 20% off!
Not a bad meter for the homeowner. Not many lower cost clamp meters read both AC & DC currents via the clamp.
That DC clamp is what first caught my attention.
@@pileofstuff At that price point, I may get one to keep with my tools for the car.
You are the best! Thank you for your awesome show!
Might want to include the model number somewhere, because they have more than one..
Clamp meters don't need a fuse.
Don't forget it also has test leads.
@@jefftremblay3707 You can't use the test leads to measure current so no fuse required.
Probably No fuse as you don't measure amps with the leads.
13:00 You could take a rental body temp knowing it should be 98.6° f. It’s probably the same, even up there in Canada. Eh?
I’m guessing that the video clip right after the one you shot in the battery room, is from the inverter room. But where in the UPS installation were you able to measure the 107.1A/600V-AC?
The only guess I can come up with, is that you measured the utility power right before it enters the main switch for the battery charging system. (While recharging the batteries.)
But I don’t know much about Canadian electrical power distribution system, except for typical residential areas..
Would you (or anyone else who knows) mind elaborating?
ALSO!
Thanks for this video, I appreciate your down-to-earth demo & comparison style. (☺️It’s simple, to the point, and easy to understand.)
🎉 Happy New Year!
73’ de OZ2BO
(Vejle, Denmark🇩🇰)
That was the generator transfer panel. It's about the only place I could get that close with relative safety.
That is essentially the main utility feed near the building power entrance.
At that point, it's 3 phase 600 volts. Relatively common for large commercial and smaller industrial installations.
Further inside the facility there are transformers that bring it down to either 208V 3phase, or the more common 120/240 volts that is usual in North America.
24A @ 250V, holy cow! That's the rating of the feed to this apartment....
Not a bad diy meter, shame about the plastic case a few drop tests would be good say from 5-6 feet onto hard surface:-) Higher if you like
hello, I have an ammeter similar to the one that the diode scale is beeping directly, could you give me a tip on which component could be the defect, I did not find the electrical schematic of it.
I haven't found a schematic either.
They are rare to find these days.
Thanks. Good job 👌
Здравствуйте,можете замерить этими клещами пусковой ток автомобиля (на горячем двигателе)в режиме T-RMS (INRUSH)?
Yes, this meter has large enough capacity and has a peak hold mode.
@@pileofstuff вы можете продемонстрировать пиковый ток запуска бензинового двигателя?
It looks like all Kaiweets multimeters are rebranded Habotest. This HT206D is for sale on Ali for C$35.80.
Yeah those do look suspiciously similar. I wonder who is actually the original?
@@pileofstuff www.habo-test.com/aboutus.html
@@pileofstuff The meter naming says it all. Prefix "HT" is for Habotest, they are the OEM I think.
Nice review Thank you!!
Not a bad Meter for home use
Great video.. i think you missed one important and very easy to test feature.. the response time of the beep on the continuity tester. Nothing drives me more nuts than a tester that beeps 1 or 2 seconds after probe makes contact. It makes you wonder if there's a loose wire or fautly solder joint somewhere.. Also here's a tip, test the thermo ccouples with water and ice and also at boiling... that way you get 0°C and 100°C
True. It is something I do these days when looking at a new meter - this video is 2 years old.
@@pileofstuff super! Will check out your channel more
Curious about the stout. What drinking temperature does the companies serving suggestions say?
The "experts" say 12-13C, so I'm pretty close on this one!
Not that I'm an expert - just an enthusiast.
True RMS?
Not sure if I could verify that with the tools I have available.
@@pileofstuff Hmm, it would be listed in the manual or stamped on the unit if it were. So I guess we could assume it’s not. Great video otherwise, keep up the good work. Mahalo
@@greggascoigne941 Even if it was listed in the manual, I'm not always willing to fully trust the claims of these inexpensive brands.
@@pileofstuff I found a couple of surprisingly easy ways of testing for RMS vs. non-RMS (at least when it comes to voltage) on Dave Jones’ EEVBLOG forum: www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/how-can-i-test-if-a-dmm-is-reading-in-true-rms/
(I think this would be an interesting experiment to make a video about. 😏)
@@greggascoigne941 it is True RMS, I have the meter. It states T-RMS just above the screen.
You must have big pants to fit the balls you have to plug a Chinese meter into 600V directly! I really liked my Kaiweets meter(s) but I would be clenching hard even plugging a Fluke into 600v!
Just need quality probes and know what you're doing 🙃
Beauty eh
Or £32 = not bad.
🌹