This is actually the best guide I've ever found, especially the wiring. You keep it simple but still detailed. I made a 4 × 4 macropad with this guide, Thanks a lot dude. Cheers!
Your video should be blowed up. Just came back to here after 5 months haha. Ur doing is on the toppest level and ceiling of playing custom diy keyboard
Thank you! I appreciate it! I’ve not posted any new videos in about a year now unfortunately. I’m working on something cool now though hopefully out within a few weeks 👌
Nice, the custom labels on the keycaps look awesome! One note for who isn't too comfortable with soldering: 1) Practice a little before; 2) You need to be careful when pre-applying solder as it can lead to "cold joints" and therefore possible intermittant connections, so don't do it unless absolutely necessary and, if you do, don't stay too long on the joints with the iron. Also, it's a good idea to add some rosin flux when needed.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the build! I wasn’t aware that cold joints were a thing, but thanks for letting me know I’ll definitely keep it in mind for later projects 😊
Thanks man! Yeah it’s suprisingly easy to work with. Honestly before starting this project I didn’t even know how easy the process actually was, but things aren’t always as complicated as they seem, most things often turns out to be a lot less complicated that they appear at first.
Thank you! I’ve actually got it written down already in my «future projects» idea list, but unfortunately it’s been a little quiet on the DIYing haven’t really found the time due to a lot of factors the last 6 months, but hopefully I’ll be «back in business» once the summer is over 😁 I actually have a new «cube 2.0» build printable on the ender 3 ready for test prints which I actually designed like 5 months ago just haven’t gotten around to do it😅
@@makerunit youtu.be/xEGrtR2ưnTY this listed a bit of part need for the mouse but not 100% … tell me or i tell u here if 1 of us founded any knowledgeable video about the mouse
Hi, do you mean the spacebar stabilizer doesn’t fit? It’s not designed for a «standard» size stabilizer so you have to manually bend the stabilizer metal rod with some pliers to match the space between the two holes. Sorry if I misunderstood your question, please let me know if there was a different issue.
@@makerunit i bend it like in the video but for some reason the actual keycap dosnt fit in the 60mm is to much longer and it cross the space of the actual keycap, iand i print it without modify his size, pliz help: C
@@alexandragamer9130 Oh. I see what you mean when I look at the file, the keycap does not match the holes. Very strange that it's been 3 years and not a single person has mentioned this issue. I'll try to fix it and send you the updated file. Sorry! I think it's easiest to re-print the keycap to fit the chassis, as it's much smaller!
Thank you! Yeah definitely some improvements to be done for my next one 😁 for example angling the keys slightly towards the person typing would be a good starting point, I must admit it’s a little awkward to write on the way it is 😃
This is probably the easiest guide I've seen. Once I have some time I'll have to give it a try, though without 3D printing as I don't have one. You might want to update the QMK link. Looks like they removed the beta subdomain.
Yeah this project was mainly intended for me to just learn the mechanics of making a working keyboard from scratch (everything but the switches). 😀 (my first ever keyboard build)
@@makerunit Really cool man I recently made my first custom keyboard and next week I’m going to make another one soon also your content is great! I didn’t make my own case on my keyboard but that’s because I don’t have a 3d printer and I can’t afford one. It’s cool how you Hotwire the switches though I don’t know how to do that.
@@makerunit i Also used the gateron yellows for my keyboard but I recommend tactile for typing on your next build. I love the tecsee purple pandas, they are great for gaming and typing. I really recommend them
Thank you! Honestly, it’s more for the learning experience I would say, just understanding how it all works. One advantage with hand-wiring is you could make custom unconventional keyboard sizes and shapes without having to order a new PCB for every attempt. But this one specifically was intended also for me to learn how it’s done, gave me great understanding of exactly how keyboards work which I never new before.
I start from handwired too in mechanical keyboard. And since I learn how to make pcb, never going back to handwired again. You should learn to make keyboard pcb, it is easy. Nice keycaps and case btw.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve thought about it but as this was my very first mechanical keyboard I’ve ever owned I thought I’d try handwiring first. There may be more keyboards coming up in the future, then I’d think about trying pcb maybe! 👍😃
As long as the amount of digital pins are enough to cover all the rows and columns it should work, but the controller may not fit in the holder I designed, so you may need to make a custom microcontroller holder piece.
you could have inserted the illuminated elements of the calibrator and instead of painting and sanding, it would shine nicely with a transparent insert
You just need to imagine a grid draw lines so that one row(horizontal) and one column (vertical)connects to each switch. Then you need to write down that grid so that you can replicate it in the QMK firmware if making custom firmware. If not, I feel the video explains is pretty good, better than I can with text at least😊
Thanks for the video! Now create a tutorial for a Commodore 64 keyboard which are difficult to recreate using normal PC keyboards because they have additional keys!
The pro micro (atmeta32u4) is getting a bit long in the tooth. It's also a bit expensive. The new RPi Pico is only 4 bucks, the wireless version is $6. QMK runs on it, and now that the bluetooth support has been added to the C lib, you can even build a wireless keyboard using it. The Pico has much more IO pins than the pro micro, so even a 104 key version is within it's grasp, not to mention RGB lighting support.
I used a gray colored PLA filament for the frame and white PLA for the keycaps. All the post processing I did was shown in the video, the only surfaces I «finished» were the actual key caps after applying paint to each letter and symbol.
Thank you! I mean you might but I can’t say for sure as I have never worked with the Pi Pico. I’m still learning this kind of stuff myself as I go so haven’t gotten there yet unfortunately to be able to answer you on that. But the micro controller holder in my specific design is specifically intended for the Arduino Pro Micro. If you look through the kbfirmware website there’s a dropdown menu i believe of supported micro controllers.
I’m not sure if I understand the question correctly, but are you asking if it works with a turkish keyboard layout? If that’s it then I’m not sure as I’m unfortunately not familiar with the turkish layout 🙂 let me know if I misunderstood the question
I split my 60% kb in half and all switches are fine and case can be fixed, but pcb is broken. So I will do this for fun with it and cuse I can costumize key layers
Excellent video, if it's not too much trouble I would like to know if you have the stl file model of the stabilizers you used. as much as possible. thanks crack
Hi! Thank you! Unfortunately the Stabilizers were not printed but bought on amazon. I’m not sure if they’re still available, but you may get away with another type and bend the stabilizer bars to fit possibly but I can’t guarantee 😅
It’s kind of a hard question to answer as I did a little bit at a time in between when I had free time so I don’t have an exact number I’m sorry. So all I can say is somewhere between like 5-15 hrs…
Im working on the same project, but planning on using an adafruit neokey 5x6, and joining multiple together. I am not very good at soldering so I see this as an easier alternative. This doing the matrix for me, would you know how these matrixs can be attached together?
Given the digital pins of 18 on the pro micro, the theoretical max keys would be 9 by 9 rows which is 81 keys but this would make for a square keyboard, or very confusing wiring schematics to make it work. Lets say you’d make a 5 row keyboard, you could support up to 13 keys per row. (Only 65 keys) A 4 row keyboard would support up to 14 keys per row. (Only 48 keys) 6 row keyboard would support 12 keys per row. (72 keys) etc. You get the idea, the closer the row and column number are to 9 on each side the more keys. The less rows lower than 9, the less total keys. I hope this made sense…
I have an Adventurer 3 printer but its not wide enough to fit the bottom plate. Do I have any options? I assume that I can't really just scale it down to fit my printer since everything won't fit... :(
Hey, scaling isn’t really an option unfortunately as this will not leave enough room for the switches. They are already a very tight fit as it is now. The best option for you would probably be to split the model and print it perhaps in 4 pieces then glue together and maybe finish with some sandpaper. This would’t look as clean but may be the best option for your print volume unfortunately… I hope you find a solution!
Maybe that’s another project for the future, I’ve got a few projects waiting now to finish 😊 I’ve actually never tried a ortholinear keyboard, are there any benefits to this opposed to using a regular layout?
@@makerunit The first benefit that comes to my head is that if you work with numbers you can program a calculator layer. it's way better than crunching numbers on a staggered keyboard. in my keyboard it works just like on your mobile phone, if I press a key I get a calculator layer for one keypress, because I maybe want to just press a symbol, but if I press it twice I get locked on that layer, in case I want to type a long number.
@@ShadowFandub I believe it’s got 18 pins for keys (I’m using 17 of them, all exept TX1) which allows for a maximum of 81 keys possible if using 9 rows by 9 columns. But really depends on the amount of rows vs amount of columns you’re using. An example is: 5 rows, 13 columns which allows for 5 times 13 keys which is 65 keys. 6 rows 12 keys can do 72 keys for example. I hope my explaination was good enough 😊
It’s a nice first try. On the next one, think about angling the board to about 6 degrees to make for a much more natural and comfortable typing experience.
Thank you! Yeah that would probably be an improvement, I was afraid the keyboard would be way to thick angling it slightly, I’ll definitely keep it in mind for next attempt in the future 😁
Yeah I agree, especially the spacebar sounds quite bad. I had to manually bend the metal bar to the correct size for this spacebar as it wasn’t a conventional size for the space.
Hi, it depends on where you live and the availability of the parts needed. All parts are listed in the description so you can see there approximately how much each part costs. 🙂
I’m sure someone has made one but maybe not so many videos about it, would be super fun project in the future and a lot of fun to make a wooden keyboard! About this specific design I’d say it should be possible if you hollow out the inside with a router and then laser cut the keycaps perhaps. Just keep in mind the little tab where the switches click into it’s only around 1mm at the thinnest so careful with the wood there. What about trying some wooden frame and 3D printing only the plate for the switches? I’d love to see your result one day if you ever make one! 😊
Listening to this almost two years later... Yes I was sick when recording the voiceover... but that didn't stop me!😀
This is actually the best guide I've ever found, especially the wiring. You keep it simple but still detailed.
I made a 4 × 4 macropad with this guide, Thanks a lot dude.
Cheers!
Thank you so much! I’m really glad to hear that you found the video helpful! 👍😁
Your video should be blowed up. Just came back to here after 5 months haha. Ur doing is on the toppest level and ceiling of playing custom diy keyboard
Thank you! I appreciate it! I’ve not posted any new videos in about a year now unfortunately. I’m working on something cool now though hopefully out within a few weeks 👌
The chocolate bar looks amazing!
Yeah thanks! I nailed that chocolate bar look right?
@@makerunit I'm surprised and proud that you got what I meant and yes, you nailed it
@@janmagtoast haha! Next time I’ll put some more thought into ergonomics 🤣
Great guide! I was surprised to learn how relatively simple the wiring is! Thanks for explaining it in such detail.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Nice, the custom labels on the keycaps look awesome!
One note for who isn't too comfortable with soldering:
1) Practice a little before;
2) You need to be careful when pre-applying solder as it can lead to "cold joints" and therefore possible intermittant connections, so don't do it unless absolutely necessary and, if you do, don't stay too long on the joints with the iron. Also, it's a good idea to add some rosin flux when needed.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the build!
I wasn’t aware that cold joints were a thing, but thanks for letting me know I’ll definitely keep it in mind for later projects 😊
You deserve wayyy more subs. Pretty badass for a 3d printed keyboard.
Thank you so much! 😊 I’m glad you liked it!
Man, you are THE GOAT! I didn't know you could use QMK to flash a handwired keyboard like that, I thought only the fancy PCBs worked with it.
Thanks man! Yeah it’s suprisingly easy to work with. Honestly before starting this project I didn’t even know how easy the process actually was, but things aren’t always as complicated as they seem, most things often turns out to be a lot less complicated that they appear at first.
Awesome guide and great video quality. You'll get thousands of subs in the next years if you keep this quality.
Thank you so much Rodolfo 😊
Ohhh the way he said Nozzle made my day😍
Nozzle 😉
Really cool. U r the one i been looking for. Do u ever imagine oneday ull do a gaming mouse custom for u entirely from scratch
Thank you! I’ve actually got it written down already in my «future projects» idea list, but unfortunately it’s been a little quiet on the DIYing haven’t really found the time due to a lot of factors the last 6 months, but hopefully I’ll be «back in business» once the summer is over 😁 I actually have a new «cube 2.0» build printable on the ender 3 ready for test prints which I actually designed like 5 months ago just haven’t gotten around to do it😅
@@makerunit youtu.be/xEGrtR2ưnTY this listed a bit of part need for the mouse but not 100% … tell me or i tell u here if 1 of us founded any knowledgeable video about the mouse
th-cam.com/video/xEGrtR2wnTY/w-d-xo.html
the first link get glitched out
I have a problem with the space bar, it is more tha 60 mm and it dosnt fit it the case actully qnq i dont know what to do
Hi, do you mean the spacebar stabilizer doesn’t fit? It’s not designed for a «standard» size stabilizer so you have to manually bend the stabilizer metal rod with some pliers to match the space between the two holes.
Sorry if I misunderstood your question, please let me know if there was a different issue.
@@makerunit i bend it like in the video but for some reason the actual keycap dosnt fit in the 60mm is to much longer and it cross the space of the actual keycap, iand i print it without modify his size, pliz help: C
@@alexandragamer9130 Oh. I see what you mean when I look at the file, the keycap does not match the holes. Very strange that it's been 3 years and not a single person has mentioned this issue. I'll try to fix it and send you the updated file. Sorry! I think it's easiest to re-print the keycap to fit the chassis, as it's much smaller!
@@makerunit thanks You soooooo much 💗💗💗
@@alexandragamer9130 can you message me on Printables? That way I’ll have a place to send the file when it’s corrected.
for sure i will do this project , and just enjoyed watching this amazing work.
Awesome! I’m glad you liked it, let me know if you encounter any issues and I’d be happy to assist 🙂
Epic keeb.
The keycaps though look a little hand drawn/bold
Great job, all considered!
Thank you! Yeah definitely some improvements to be done for my next one 😁 for example angling the keys slightly towards the person typing would be a good starting point, I must admit it’s a little awkward to write on the way it is 😃
This is probably the easiest guide I've seen. Once I have some time I'll have to give it a try, though without 3D printing as I don't have one. You might want to update the QMK link. Looks like they removed the beta subdomain.
such an underrated channel. good luck for your future brother
Thank you! I appreciate your positive feedback! 😊
I think I would've filled it with foam due to it being hollow for the most part. Great build overall!
That’s a good idea to fight the hollow sound definitely. I’ll keep that in mind for next time 👍😊 thanks!
Cool but I need a shift on each side
Yeah this project was mainly intended for me to just learn the mechanics of making a working keyboard from scratch (everything but the switches). 😀 (my first ever keyboard build)
@@makerunit Really cool man I recently made my first custom keyboard and next week I’m going to make another one soon also your content is great! I didn’t make my own case on my keyboard but that’s because I don’t have a 3d printer and I can’t afford one. It’s cool how you Hotwire the switches though I don’t know how to do that.
@@FinnSpins_ before making this even I didn’t know how keyboards actually were put together so it was a fun learning experience for me also!
@@makerunit i Also used the gateron yellows for my keyboard but I recommend tactile for typing on your next build. I love the tecsee purple pandas, they are great for gaming and typing. I really recommend them
Cool build! I was wondering what are the advantage of doing the wiring instead of buying a cheap PCB though.
Thank you! Honestly, it’s more for the learning experience I would say, just understanding how it all works.
One advantage with hand-wiring is you could make custom unconventional keyboard sizes and shapes without having to order a new PCB for every attempt.
But this one specifically was intended also for me to learn how it’s done, gave me great understanding of exactly how keyboards work which I never new before.
@@makerunit oh that’s nice! Thanks for the answer.
Thanks so much, it filled in a lot of gaps. I hope to make one soon,
.
Awesome! I’m glad you found my video helpful!
I start from handwired too in mechanical keyboard. And since I learn how to make pcb, never going back to handwired again. You should learn to make keyboard pcb, it is easy. Nice keycaps and case btw.
Thanks! Yeah I’ve thought about it but as this was my very first mechanical keyboard I’ve ever owned I thought I’d try handwiring first. There may be more keyboards coming up in the future, then I’d think about trying pcb maybe! 👍😃
fantastic work! i can't wait to print my own now that the weather is cooling down. keep up the great videos!
Thank you! 😊 let me know if you encounter any issues and I’d be happy to help any way I can!
Great video. Very well explained. Thanks
Thanks! I tried my best to explain it how I’d prefer to get it explained, and I’m happy you enjoyed it!
Can you use a teensy 2.0 with this keyboard?
As long as the amount of digital pins are enough to cover all the rows and columns it should work, but the controller may not fit in the holder I designed, so you may need to make a custom microcontroller holder piece.
So much good information! Thank you so much!
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful!
Is there also a 60 case of this model ?
Unfortunately I’ve only made this one model of the keyboard.
you could have inserted the illuminated elements of the calibrator and instead of painting and sanding, it would shine nicely with a transparent insert
That’s a possibility definitely 😊
How do you know where to wire the rows and columns ?
You just need to imagine a grid draw lines so that one row(horizontal) and one column (vertical)connects to each switch. Then you need to write down that grid so that you can replicate it in the QMK firmware if making custom firmware. If not, I feel the video explains is pretty good, better than I can with text at least😊
Thanks for the video! Now create a tutorial for a Commodore 64 keyboard which are difficult to recreate using normal PC keyboards because they have additional keys!
Additional keys is usually not a problem when making a custom layout 😁
The pro micro (atmeta32u4) is getting a bit long in the tooth. It's also a bit expensive. The new RPi Pico is only 4 bucks, the wireless version is $6. QMK runs on it, and now that the bluetooth support has been added to the C lib, you can even build a wireless keyboard using it. The Pico has much more IO pins than the pro micro, so even a 104 key version is within it's grasp, not to mention RGB lighting support.
Aha! Thanks for letting me know. I don’t think this was available at the time of making this. (I think)
What material filament did you use? Did you have to do any post processing to get a better finish?
I used a gray colored PLA filament for the frame and white PLA for the keycaps. All the post processing I did was shown in the video, the only surfaces I «finished» were the actual key caps after applying paint to each letter and symbol.
excellent video! could i use a Raspberry Pi Pico as a controller?
Thank you! I mean you might but I can’t say for sure as I have never worked with the Pi Pico. I’m still learning this kind of stuff myself as I go so haven’t gotten there yet unfortunately to be able to answer you on that. But the micro controller holder in my specific design is specifically intended for the Arduino Pro Micro. If you look through the kbfirmware website there’s a dropdown menu i believe of supported micro controllers.
What can I do if the keyboard doesn't fit on my 3d printer?
I’d say use a software to cut the part in half, some slicers also have the option to split bigger parts which you can then glue later.
@@makerunit thanks
Hi! I was just wondering if this project will be the same if I used turkish Q aswell?
I’m not sure if I understand the question correctly, but are you asking if it works with a turkish keyboard layout? If that’s it then I’m not sure as I’m unfortunately not familiar with the turkish layout 🙂 let me know if I misunderstood the question
Awesome as always
Thank you Jamie! 😊
I split my 60% kb in half and all switches are fine and case can be fixed, but pcb is broken.
So I will do this for fun with it and cuse I can costumize key layers
Cool! Looking forward to hearing how it goes! 😊 always fun customizing stuff!
@@makerunit thanks, Ill update you when I have done it, I'll start next month
@@AlmostBrokeLbs Awesome! 😊
Excellent video, if it's not too much trouble I would like to know if you have the stl file model of the stabilizers you used. as much as possible. thanks crack
Hi! Thank you! Unfortunately the Stabilizers were not printed but bought on amazon. I’m not sure if they’re still available, but you may get away with another type and bend the stabilizer bars to fit possibly but I can’t guarantee 😅
@@makerunit Gracias bro
I Love your videos man 😍😍
Thank you! 😊
How long did it take to take all the measurements and have the design ready?
It’s kind of a hard question to answer as I did a little bit at a time in between when I had free time so I don’t have an exact number I’m sorry. So all I can say is somewhere between like 5-15 hrs…
im gonna print this butt gonna make it a lil slimmer thansk for the files
Oh yeah this one turned out a little thicker than first anticipated.😅
Great work!
Thank you! 😊
Lovely video, 11 minutes and here's everything you need to know about building your own mechanical keyboard.
Thank you! I tried to be as thorough as possible 😊 all this applies to any keyboard you’d wanna make 😊
Im working on the same project, but planning on using an adafruit neokey 5x6, and joining multiple together. I am not very good at soldering so I see this as an easier alternative. This doing the matrix for me, would you know how these matrixs can be attached together?
Hey, sorry for the late response, unfortunately I don’t have much experience with joining two separate boards. 😢
@@makerunit Your video has been very helpful, do you know what to do if I was to have 14 cols instead of 13?
Great guide!!!! Thanks!!!!
Thank you! 😊
How many keys can the arduino support ?
Given the digital pins of 18 on the pro micro, the theoretical max keys would be 9 by 9 rows which is 81 keys but this would make for a square keyboard, or very confusing wiring schematics to make it work.
Lets say you’d make a 5 row keyboard, you could support up to 13 keys per row. (Only 65 keys)
A 4 row keyboard would support up to 14 keys per row. (Only 48 keys)
6 row keyboard would support 12 keys per row. (72 keys) etc.
You get the idea, the closer the row and column number are to 9 on each side the more keys. The less rows lower than 9, the less total keys.
I hope this made sense…
I have an Adventurer 3 printer but its not wide enough to fit the bottom plate. Do I have any options? I assume that I can't really just scale it down to fit my printer since everything won't fit... :(
Hey, scaling isn’t really an option unfortunately as this will not leave enough room for the switches. They are already a very tight fit as it is now.
The best option for you would probably be to split the model and print it perhaps in 4 pieces then glue together and maybe finish with some sandpaper. This would’t look as clean but may be the best option for your print volume unfortunately… I hope you find a solution!
Hey could you handwire a 40% ortholinear?
Maybe that’s another project for the future, I’ve got a few projects waiting now to finish 😊 I’ve actually never tried a ortholinear keyboard, are there any benefits to this opposed to using a regular layout?
@@makerunit The first benefit that comes to my head is that if you work with numbers you can program a calculator layer. it's way better than crunching numbers on a staggered keyboard. in my keyboard it works just like on your mobile phone, if I press a key I get a calculator layer for one keypress, because I maybe want to just press a symbol, but if I press it twice I get locked on that layer, in case I want to type a long number.
@@alpacamale2909 ah yeah I see that’d be useful in many scenarios. Maybe I’ll give it a shot one day! 😊
Wow 👏
Great channel
Thank you! I really appreciate it! 😊 don’t hesitate to suggest some new challenges for me to try out I’m always open to new ideas 😊
I love it! Great job
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it! 😊
@@makerunit What is the max keys? 60?
@@ShadowFandub there is room for 48 keys total 😊
@@makerunit i mean, the pro micro can use 60 keys?
@@ShadowFandub I believe it’s got 18 pins for keys (I’m using 17 of them, all exept TX1) which allows for a maximum of 81 keys possible if using 9 rows by 9 columns. But really depends on the amount of rows vs amount of columns you’re using.
An example is: 5 rows, 13 columns which allows for 5 times 13 keys which is 65 keys.
6 rows 12 keys can do 72 keys for example.
I hope my explaination was good enough 😊
It’s a nice first try. On the next one, think about angling the board to about 6 degrees to make for a much more natural and comfortable typing experience.
Thank you! Yeah that would probably be an improvement, I was afraid the keyboard would be way to thick angling it slightly, I’ll definitely keep it in mind for next attempt in the future 😁
Alternatively, get some of those cabinet door dampeners and stick them to the back corners to raise it a little
DIY Endgame :D
sounds kinda cursed, also try lubricating your stabiliser wires, just the parts that go into the stabilisers, this reduces rattle.
Yeah I agree, especially the spacebar sounds quite bad. I had to manually bend the metal bar to the correct size for this spacebar as it wasn’t a conventional size for the space.
@@makerunit oh, right, so u maybe made it, say 1.9-1.8u instead of the 2u stabiliser you're using
@@EasonTek yeah I don’t have the exact size but yeah 👍
What's the cost of making
Hi, it depends on where you live and the availability of the parts needed. All parts are listed in the description so you can see there approximately how much each part costs. 🙂
The key honks killed me 🤣
Then how did you write this comment? 🕵️🧐
Im thinking of making one out of ply wood and cut with a laser. I do wonder, if anyone has made one before? Can’t find any one YT here…
I’m sure someone has made one but maybe not so many videos about it, would be super fun project in the future and a lot of fun to make a wooden keyboard!
About this specific design I’d say it should be possible if you hollow out the inside with a router and then laser cut the keycaps perhaps. Just keep in mind the little tab where the switches click into it’s only around 1mm at the thinnest so careful with the wood there. What about trying some wooden frame and 3D printing only the plate for the switches? I’d love to see your result one day if you ever make one! 😊
Pleas sand it
I’ll try to get a better finish next time 🙂
send it to chyrosran22... (ask for return though)
I mean I’m happy with the result! But if its THAT good, I’m not sure, maybe my next keyboard will do! 😂