Making Tongue and Grooves | The Toolbox Project #7
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video, I'm going to show you how to cut the tongue and groove base that will make up the bottom of the toolbox. I actually made an error with this stage so be sure to watch all the way through to the end to see how you can avoid doing the same!
As always, if you need more information on this stage or would like to know how to do this by hand, take a look at the supporting resources below.
If you'd like to know more about this series and the Free Online Woodworking School in general. Go and have a look at the full lesson here:
freeonlinewood...
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SUPPORTING MATERIAL FOR THE LESSON
Cutting Grooves by Hand
► freeonlinewood...
Cutting Rebates by Hand
► freeonlinewood...
My Router Table (Highly Recommended)
► kit.co/MattEst...
► Review: • UJK Router Table Unbox...
My Router
► kit.co/MattEst...
► Review: • BOSCH GMF1600 Router R...
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SUPPORTING MATERIAL FOR THE PROJECT
See all the FREE lessons for this project here:
► freeonlinewood...
Learn more about the Free Online Woodworking School:
► freeonlinewood...
Optional Plans:
► mattestlea.com...
Pre-Planed Project Packs:
► www.mattestlea...
(Perfect for those who don't have access to machinery!)
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SUPPORT THE FREE ONLINE WOODWORKING SCHOOL
With your help we can help keep this channel running and keep the content free. Your donations will help fund new tools, equipment and cover our overheads to keep producing more high quality content in the future.
Donate Here:
► freeonlinewood...
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SOCIAL MEDIA
► Instagram: / mattestleafurniture
► Facebook: / mattestleafurniture
► Twitter: / mattestlea
► Patreon: / mattestlea
► Pinterest: / estleafurniture
► LinkedIn: / matt-estl. .
See what tools we use on the Free Online Woodworking School here:
► kit.com/MattEs...
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WHAT IS THE FREE ONLINE WOODWORKING SCHOOL?
When designing the online course, Matt wanted to make it as close as possible to his own experience learning at Rycotewood Furniture Centre in Oxford. Primarily, by providing a structured course that anyone can follow, without having to find their own way through an arbitrary list of videos on TH-cam.
Want to build this project yourself? Consider grabbing a project pack from our store! 🪚
mattestlea.com/projectpacks 💥
These are pre-machined packs that we process in bulk, meaning we can offer them at an affordable price while still maintaining the accuracy and quality we're known for.
You'll also find material for all the other projects we have taught such as: 👇
The Dovetail Box Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKcVjT6S-0fHGoyH4y7W6riT.html
The Cabinet Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKeNp1Uz0VK0mGbBSCq918w9.html
The Shaker Table Project: th-cam.com/play/PLJZTXsmiGZKfk3NW1gcpTRlIAnr1WvksQ.html
Finally, don't forget to use the links in the description if you want to purchase one of the tools/consumables I recommend in these videos. Most of the time, this allows us to get a small commision from the sale at no extra cost to you and is what helps us continue to post these videos for free. Thank you in advance! :)
Great educational video again Matt. You explain the process and the techniques so well. I've learned a lot. Thank you.
Veritas makes a shaker router bit designed by Chris Becksvort. It allows you to raise the panel on a router table. Shakers used a 60 degree angle to establish a shadow line. It allows for expansion and offers a neat attractive shadow line.
Great video series, Matt. Thanks a lot… I’m not sure if I understood your drawing right, but why do I have to account for 2 mm expansion and contraction room for each tongue and groove board? When the expansion and contraction is a percentage of the width of a board shouldn’t it be the same as on the top? This would be the 4 mm divided by four (or five, I’m really confused right now 😂). Which in the end should lead to a fit with less wiggle room...
you do such a good job.
Matt from the future 😄
@4:38 - 112 not 102 haha!
Another great video Matt, Beautiful as always! ♥️
Great video!
It presumably does matter which end component you cut the groove / tongue on as you allowed one to be wider to start with so that the visual width once the tongue is cut is consistent with the other components
@20:25 and there’s another ding in the marking gauge wheel. 🤣
Mine has one of those. The wheels are super brittle and I drop things... a lot.
Matt, Have you ever used ‘space balls’ in grooves like cabinet makers do?
When I worked in the cabinet industry, we used space balls as a dodge. Flat sawn timber expands in two different direction differently. So in the axis of no expansion, with the grain, you don’t need space balls. If your panel slides left and right in the axis of max expansion, simply center the panel and pin it with a tiny wood dowel. I go at it from the inside and barely penetrate the panel into the other side but thru it. These are 1/8 in pins/dowels. This allows the panel to expand evenly on both sides keeping the reveal constant. If you use balls and force the joint to tight, the structure can fail when things get humid. So in short if I need to make 300 doors in one day, I will use balls. Otherwise no balls.
Instead of the false fence approach, you could have also mentioned using a coping sled.
Why do you need 8mm clearance on the base but only 4mm on the lid
I was wondering that too. Is there a reason you can’t just do a solid panel base in the same way the lid was done?