If it's slow, there's something wrong with it. The optional 225 Slant Six, as opposed to the 198 Slant six, was designed for full size cars, and is no slouch, expecially in a lighweight compact car.
People ignorantly overuse the word underpowered when the engine clearly has no damage after 50 years. The correct word would be overworked and that would apply to the newer cars with engines that self destruct at 80k miles. These mopar A-bodies were the most reliable American cars ever made and I was a teenager when this car was new.
If it does not have one, you can get a used 2 barrel intake manifold and the appropriate 2 barrel carburetor to add about 15-20 horsepower. It was a factory option. The rear axle has an economy ratio, 2.72 I believe, but you can switch it to a 3.23 if you want a bit more acceleration.
@@ChadsGarage1 the 2 bbl. carb and rear axle ratio switch will give you the most performance for the money and effort. We have been through this with a 1973 Plymouth Duster. Headers are fine if you want to spend the money on a new exhaust.
I've owned a ton of '67-'76 A-bodies. Words of advice, 1st things to do - 1) carry a spare ballast resistor 2) carry a spare electronic ignition box 3) replace the instrument cluster voltage regulator with an electronic one (Real Time Engineering) 4) replace the wiper pivot seals 5) replace distributor shaft nylon gear piece 7) probably the baby 7.25" rear axle, change the gear oil out, use synthetic (it doesn't hold a lot of lube) I have an "End run" '76 Valiant V8 sedan. HD cooling, HD suspension, PS cooler (S21 firm-feel), trans cooler, certified speedo (A51package), total "Plain Jane" in beige splendor. Vinyl interior, map light, passenger side mirror and carpet, 2.76 SG axle, & that's it's option list. Added? 15" x 7" cop wheels with AMC 'Volcano" centers & running 60-series black wall Bridgestones, swapped on the 12" rotors & calipers from a '76 Charger Daytona (Cordoba), US Car Tools chassis stiffening kit, slight cam, Edelbrock intake, TQ carb, TBC headers and a Pypes 2.5" dual exhaust with an X-cross over, trunk popper from an '80 Aspen cop car, and some Bergman Auto Craft suspension, brake & steering upgrades. It is one of my favorite cars to drive around in
I just replaced my ECM and ballast resistor. Lol. I definitely plan on keeping one of each in the glove compartment. I’ll keep all the other stuff in mind. Just getting started with this thing. It’s got some potential if I don’t trade it off first.
Shame I can't send you pictures of my '76 Valiant sedan. You'd dying laughing once you saw all it's got hidden in it- it is purpose-built in all it's "Sahara Beige" glory. I also have a '69 Swinger that was crudely converted to a 383 car in about '78 down in Central Texas, we are working on that car (which sat for 40+ years) right now@@ChadsGarage1
Yeah that’s definitely something to consider. I don’t have the ability to leave stuff alone so I’m gonna have to look into that. Saw a video of a nasty sounding slant six the other day. #goals!
I remember these cars back in my neighborhood. Every family had one - and they were all painted brown!
This one will not be like those lol.
Mine is "Sahara Beige" and my '69 Swinger is R4 red w/ a white rump stripe
Love Plymouths/Valiants! My ‘66 Valiant is off getting all the upgrades. I miss driving it around town nearly every day.
Look forward to following this project
If it's slow, there's something wrong with it. The optional 225 Slant Six, as opposed to the 198 Slant six, was designed for full size cars, and is no slouch, expecially in a lighweight compact car.
I’m sure it has a lot to do with the carb needing rebuilt.
People ignorantly overuse the word underpowered when the engine clearly has no damage after 50 years. The correct word would be overworked and that would apply to the newer cars with engines that self destruct at 80k miles. These mopar A-bodies were the most reliable American cars ever made and I was a teenager when this car was new.
If it does not have one, you can get a used 2 barrel intake manifold and the appropriate 2 barrel carburetor to add about 15-20 horsepower. It was a factory option. The rear axle has an economy ratio, 2.72 I believe, but you can switch it to a 3.23 if you want a bit more acceleration.
I was thinking headers also.
@@ChadsGarage1 the 2 bbl. carb and rear axle ratio switch will give you the most performance for the money and effort. We have been through this with a 1973 Plymouth Duster. Headers are fine if you want to spend the money on a new exhaust.
Those cars looked old when they were brand new.....but I like it now 😂
Lmao!!! I know it!! I actually tried to get a Yugo last week!!!!!!
I've owned a ton of '67-'76 A-bodies. Words of advice, 1st things to do - 1) carry a spare ballast resistor 2) carry a spare electronic ignition box 3) replace the instrument cluster voltage regulator with an electronic one (Real Time Engineering) 4) replace the wiper pivot seals 5) replace distributor shaft nylon gear piece 7) probably the baby 7.25" rear axle, change the gear oil out, use synthetic (it doesn't hold a lot of lube)
I have an "End run" '76 Valiant V8 sedan. HD cooling, HD suspension, PS cooler (S21 firm-feel), trans cooler, certified speedo (A51package), total "Plain Jane" in beige splendor. Vinyl interior, map light, passenger side mirror and carpet, 2.76 SG axle, & that's it's option list. Added? 15" x 7" cop wheels with AMC 'Volcano" centers & running 60-series black wall Bridgestones, swapped on the 12" rotors & calipers from a '76 Charger Daytona (Cordoba), US Car Tools chassis stiffening kit, slight cam, Edelbrock intake, TQ carb, TBC headers and a Pypes 2.5" dual exhaust with an X-cross over, trunk popper from an '80 Aspen cop car, and some Bergman Auto Craft suspension, brake & steering upgrades. It is one of my favorite cars to drive around in
I just replaced my ECM and ballast resistor. Lol. I definitely plan on keeping one of each in the glove compartment. I’ll keep all the other stuff in mind. Just getting started with this thing. It’s got some potential if I don’t trade it off first.
Shame I can't send you pictures of my '76 Valiant sedan. You'd dying laughing once you saw all it's got hidden in it- it is purpose-built in all it's "Sahara Beige" glory. I also have a '69 Swinger that was crudely converted to a 383 car in about '78 down in Central Texas, we are working on that car (which sat for 40+ years) right now@@ChadsGarage1
@@olikat8 you can send to my email. Chadsdiygarage71@gmail.com
Will do@@ChadsGarage1
The Jack bottle is a keeper 👏
It’s a cool touch!
This should be a cool project!!!
Yeah it’s gonna be a lot of fun!!
thats pretty cool ride
Thanks buddy!
I think it’s a cute car. You need to keep the steering wheel. 😉
It’s staying.
It's not a classic. It's a curiosity from the Malaise era.
I’ll fix that.
I just bought this last weekend like this exact car
The car???
Congrats!!
@@ChadsGarage1 yeah it’s in my garage
That’s awesome!!
@@ChadsGarage1 do you have any idea why when you move the carb it runs better
Hop up the slant six and do something different ( Four barrel a cam and a split header for true dual exhaust)
Yeah that’s definitely something to consider. I don’t have the ability to leave stuff alone so I’m gonna have to look into that. Saw a video of a nasty sounding slant six the other day. #goals!
Very cool! Keep it low!!
lol. No
Call me crazy but I like the Teal color.
It’s gotta go……
awe snap!
lol. You know how I roll……
Hell cat motor 😊
Now you’re talking!
1:00 Why do people say new to me? No one is going to think it's a brand new car. That phrase just seems unnecessary.
That lets people know that I just got it. Got it?
@@ChadsGarage1 Just say new, they'll understand.