How To Thread A Blank With Your Mandrel

[@masjabrikdiy8422]

hello friends greetings healthy and successful always. thank you for sharing knowledge and always faithfully watching your latest stuff I like your ideas👍👍

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you very much!!

[@glencrandall7051]

Another good piece of information for bottle stopper turning. thanks Carl. Have a great day.

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you Glen! Have a great day!

[@buzzgreen20]

Thanks Carl!

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you Bill!

[@JakeThompson]

Great video Carl!!

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you buddy!!

[@JordanWoodwerx]

All great tips Mr. Carl! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Than k you Bruce :)

[@trurex007lee7]

Very helpful Carl! I’ll try this technique next time.

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you Lee, I glad it helped.

[@LewisKauffman]

Thanks!!

[@charleskallay5484]

Hi Carl, Don't eliminate all the noise. I'm new to turning so the noises that are happening to you, tell me what to expect and what's normal or not.

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Hey Charles, sorry for the late reply! Good to know! I'll leave the sounds in :)

[@bradbyers7505]

I use Ruth's mandrels, stoppers and inserts. I can't figure out why the inserts are so hard to get precisely at a right angle to the surface of the wood blank. I have inserted them with an arbor press, with the tailstock of the lathe, and with the mandrel and a mallet. Everything looks true and square as the blank is screwed on the mandrel, but after I turn and finish the blank the base of the stopper or opener doesn't mate up perfectly to the wood. I have tried making the surface slightly concave, and that helps sometimes. Could it be the glue causes the insert to be slightly cocked as it cures? I am going to try the forstner bit technique tomorrow.

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Hey Brad, I use the forstner bit and the 7/16 stub drill bit, and press them in so there's very little glue to move around. Let me know how that works.

[@prspastor]

Thanks Carl!

[@nilesbottlestoppers]

Thank you!