Yes these are only small tips. However, I'm extremely grateful for your insight and experience regarding this tool as in my opinion this knowledge is absolutely crucial. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Great video - straightforward and useful. The marks on the track sound like one of those common sense ideas that should make it into future tracks, so we get them out of the box - you should submit it as a feature request. Thanks for the tips.
Hi Ravi. I look at things in a technical way, and any little things I can do to make things easier to use and more efficient seem worthwhile.🤩 Thanks for watching and your comment.👍 Cheers
Brilliant! Never really considered why the end of the cut - and the beginning - seems to dog leg ever so slightly. Of course, when you point it out, it is very obvious. the 2 points of contact are a good way of minimising any variation due to distortion of the track and/or the saw base. However, if only one of them is in contact with the track, well... Thanks for sharing something so obvious, but overlooked by many of us.
Just a side note to this I found that the Freud blade from screwy which is 1.7 mm does not bend unlike the Makita blade which comes with the unit which I found holy useless.... I suggest swapping to a thicker blade that doesn't bend in your hand when you take it out of the packet and you'll find that your cuts are a straight line . (I am mostly cutting through 18mm chipboard over 580 mm distamce
And the moral of the story is always look at the all aspects of your tools and know there full capabilities and there down sides because they all have them, great vid mr Tall 👍
This is an excellent setup video! Thank you. My corded 6000 came out of the box about 1.5mm toe Out. I did the test you did and the back of the blade clearly was closer to the cut. I loosened the 4 base screws and put the sole plate with a toe in like you describe. The cutting is now as I expected, dead straight and very clean.
As always - thank you so much Del for making yet another deeply informative video. I’ve got a makita track and plunge saw - I took the “plunge” Ho ho- having been very unhappy with the cuts I got with my makita circular saw using a makita plastic sled and metal bar thing that converts it for use on the track - which is just too bendy - and it produced non straight inconsistent cuts. The 36v lxt plunge saw is cracking and a step change in precision - however I’ve noticed that it sometimes starts to bind right at the end of the cut at the end of the board, and I couldn’t work out why but presumed I was being undisciplined with how I was pushing it, or the track somehow was bending over the end . No !!!! It’s what you’ve just pointed out - when an eccentric cam goes off the end. It’s so obvious now you’re pointed it out - and I just hadn’t worked it out. I feel so stupid !!! Thanks so much - this will allow me to cut right to the ends of boards properly ! You stand out again and again as being so knowledgable and experienced, pointing out things that other TH-camrs I suspect don’t even know, but are so valuable. Thank you.
I purchased the Makita cordless brushless 36V track saw two Years ago. It has proved to be a great bit of kit. I had a Bosch 110V corded track saw prior to the Makita. That was a great workshop saw but I needed the portability and flexibility of a cordless track saw. I sold the Bosch and bought the Makita and I've been very happy with it. I bought two 1.4m tracks and joined them permanently with the joining kit. I have a slot in the back of my van for it. It just fits, the van is a 2007 Toyota Hiace L.W.B. I also purchased a shorter 1m track for shorter cuts. I find the supplied narrow kerf blade has a tendency to deflect a bit if one is taking a narrow sliver off the end of a sheet. I might swap it out for a full kerf Freud Diablo or a full kerf Festool blade. The anti-tilt feature on the Makita is a great idea and I don't think any other T.S on the market has it. The scoring cut feature is brilliant as well and correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is exclusive to the Makita as well. There are only two negatives I have found with it. It is slightly under powered for hardwoods and better quality softwoods. It struggles with the likes of trimming solid doors, fire doors etc. The dept of cut is a bit limited as well. That said with two fully charged 6ah batteries and a sharp blade one can do a lot with this saw. On heavier cuts I use two passes to get through the material. I'm keeping my eyes open for a new 40V track saw from Makita, 🔨🔨 🇮🇪
I made an octagon dining table using 2 1/4” thick rock maple that had been stored for over 40 years. I used the 36 volt Makita track saw. Their 28 tooth blade does a great job of ripping hardwood. As for trimming a little of the end of sheet goods, it’s always better to cut with any blade cutting with material on both sides of even if it’s only a 1/16” on the outside.
Hi Bradley. I hope those little tips help. I've just fitting my first kitchen using this saw and track and its a real game changer for cutting down end panels. 😎 Cheers.
Those bosses or lands set in from end of base allow a full millimeter of play side to side when one is out of channel which I noticed when I first cut my splinter guard & messed up both ends. When cutting splinter guard most people use scoring depth or a little more. That makes those locating lands go beyond the track ends even more because only a short section of blade is sticking out. To trim a new splinter guard I use 2 attached tracks & leap frog them to to cleanly cut splinter guard end to end. In cutting wood if you run the blade deeper it allows cutting longer lengths without side to side slop & the need for longer or paired rails.
Hi Don🖐Great observation and you are spot on with what you say👍I've found, with use, that the splinter guard get cut back a little further than the blade path anyway, and I have to allow this when lining up the track on my marks. Maybe it's time to replace the splinter guard🤔Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Thank you so much for this video... I never knew that you could adjust across a lateral plane. Off now just recalibrated it and I used the scribe cut facility to ensure that my back cuts are good and also the forward cut was cutting up into the rubber. That way my waste side cuts and my keeps cuts are perfect. It's like using a brand new blade again. 👌
Hi Tall carpenter (even though I might be even taller). I like your videos. I run Festool, but the few Makita things I own have not been disappointing. Track saws are amazing and I bought my first Festool some 20 years ago (when they were the only one on the market). Since then my biggest revelation has been getting a 2700mm rail. I can cut full sheets without the problems you address in this video. Might be a bit long to haul around, but I do most shop work these days. Connecting the rails works, but not nearly as good. Another game changer is the HKC 55 FSK 420 (tracksaw/plungesaw mounted on its own small rail) Like having a mitresaw at the end of your arms. Perfect for making angled or 90 cut since the angle of the rail is easily adjustable.
Hi there my fellow tall carpenter.🖐 I can absolutely see how the 2.7m rail would be super useful, and I'd love to get one. The only problem is it wont fit in the back of my van and I don't want to start cutting the bulkhead to pass it through.😬 I just had a quick look at the saw you mentioned and it looks really cool. (expensive though). I've got a similar, (poor mans), set up with a short length of track and a track adapter fitted to my Makita dhs680. Works really well on joists and bigger rafter plumb cuts.😁 Thanks for watching and your great comment.😎 Cheers.
I just ordered the corded version with the 1400mm track. I like your tip to mark the extremes of the track where the saw track alignment points lose contact. I’ll definitely look at longer tracks if I need to break down full size 2400x1200 boards. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Hi John. Like me, you'll wonder how you managed with it once you've had it a while🙄 A longer track would make cutting down 8x4's much quicker than doing a double hit with a shorter rail😬 I just cant fit a 3m track in my van😥 Great comment and thanks for watching😎
Another great video. I’ve got the 110v makita plungesaw but ordered the 36v body only version as my opinion theses tracksaws are a game changer on site work there awesome tools
Hi Neil. To be honest I feel like a bit of a donkey not getting one of these saws sooner.😣 I've got chippie mates who've been using them for years, and they've always told me how great they are.😎 I'm slowly becoming less of a dinosaur.😜 Thanks for watching.
Hello Tall Carpenter, If you extend the track either with a longer one ,or as I do join two together, so they extend before and after the material to be cut problem solved. Its a problem that if the saw is used as designed does not exist . I found your findings on the saw alignment very interesting Keep up the good work
Assembly instructions were a little unclear for a couple of items. It works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh though, easy to set up and use. If the instructions were better I would have given it 5 stars.
I bought the corded version a month ago and just received the guide track which I bought separately. I was testing my saw last night and was wondering about the slop you get at the ends. I haven't used it yet, when I saw that slop I was wondering how to avoid that when I trim my splinter strip. This video helped me to understand how to deal with this. The other advice was great also. Thank you,
@@kizzjd9578 Hi there. A lot of people have reported difficulties in lining two of these rails up to get a nice straight cut.😩 I've not tried to so cant really comment.😁 Cheers
I was realy thinking of getting one . But I decided on the dhs900 . 36 v 235 mm blade . Tilts to 60 degs . It’s base fits on the track . Awesome saw . Very heavy but glides easy on track
Good tip. Explains why the replacement splinter guard on my Titan has not trimmed straight and is off the first few inches. Will run the rail with a replaced guard after an existing rail next time.
@@kizzjd9578 Hi there. No, there is 4 little screws in the base plate that you loosen to adjust the toe. The back only needs to be out a tiny amount though. (a couple of thicknesses of paper).👍 Cheers.
Hi Tony. I always want to try and get best out of my tools to help me do the best job possible. The details in this video are only small, are still relevant. Thanks for watching and your comment. 😉Cheers.
The next investment is the 3m rail which makes whole sheet cutting so easy. You can also cut a 1.5m rail into say 900 and 600 and you have a whole assortment of rail lengths to hand for different size pieces.
Hi Richard. You're absolutely right.😎 I have been gifted a 1.4m rail which I'm going to cut down to maybe 1m. (so will have a 1.5 and 1m). I would buy a 3m track tomorrow, but its too long to fit in the van.😬 I was using the saw and rail yesterday while kitchen fitting, and I still feel such a donkey for not getting one years ago.🙈 Thanks for your comment.👍
@@elliottgeorge5850 Hi there🖐I actually just push my 1.5m rail along when cutting 8foot sheets, but it's not ideal as the slight toe in on the blade leaves a small step in the cut when re plunge on the 2nd pass😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@elliottgeorge5850 It depends what you want to use it for🤔I use a normal circular saw with a rail adapter, but it very '1st fix' as you have to pull the blade guard back and then plunge the saw👍The dedicated plunge saw is very much '2nd fix' producing excellent cuts in board materials👊Cheers Del
The second part of your video i thought was very clever, not sure how you learned about the slight toe in angle of the blade to saw shoe but thats very important to understand about the saw. I saw another youtuber who was doing a video about alternative saw blades he was trying on his Makita track saw because his was always burning the wood. 90% chance that his toe in is too much and is binding in the wood. Maybe you could do another video on how to adjust this.......Thank you so much.
Hi there🖐I've always known about toeing a saw blade in at the front to reduce chip out at the back of the cut, but the key to this in these track saws is how much toe in, and crucially, how to check it🤔 The way I show how I check this in the video just seemed logical👊I will do another video just focusing on this and how to set it correctly👍Thanks for your great comment and for watching 😎Cheers Del
Hi there. I actually think its a bit less than 0.5 degrees. Toeing the blade in at the front, (or more actually, out at the back), stops the rear of the blade spoiling the cut as it travels downwards through the material.😃 And you are quite right, that a plunge cut is actually out of line with the guide/track but only by a tiny amount.👍 Great comment and a good eye for that detail.👊Cheers.
This video was so helpful! I was just about to send back my saw and/or TSO rail square because I couldn’t get square plunge cuts. I had no idea about the toe-in. Thank you!!!
Great review. One other significant issue - if either guide is allowed to drop out at the beginning or end of a cut - is that the slop in tracking will butcher the accuracy of the rubber splinter guard-guide, which impairs its major function of lining-up to your mark at each end.
Quite true Peter, and this will be damage the splinter guard significantly if the blade is all the way out😖 Another reason to keep it in the guides👍 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎
Great question.. I just purchased the makita track saw .. anxiously waiting for delivery.. I thought the same would possibly damage the rubber track .. do u find that u need to buy the 39 inch track along with 55 inch ?
@@scottbertrand2057 Hi Scott. I just have the 1.5m track (59")and find this is all I need for cutting down 8'x4' sheets and also door bottoms etc😎 Cheers and all the best with your new saw👊
@@thetallcarpenter since u have a track saw .. do u think I should have purchased a battery or corded saw? I ordered a corded on that in can operate it with a vacuum switch..
@@scottbertrand2057 Hi Scott. I don't think there is any right or wrong with corded/cordless. I have a remote switch on my extractor hose, but the Makita chip thing works even better😎 Cheers
Great video. When I'm using my Makita track saw with the tracks it's leaving burn marks on 12mm thick MDF (the blade is sharp and clean). On the off chance it is the toe-in you mentioned how would I adjust this?
Hi Lestyn. There is 4 cross head screws in the base that you loosen to adjust saw body on the base. Adjust it so the front of the blade is very slightly further in than the back. You can check if its right by plunging the saw in mid way down a board and then replunge the saw further back up the same cut line and bring it down to where the rear of the first cut was. You should see a tiny step in the two cuts the same as in the video.👍 Look from 4:51 onwards and specifically 6:37.
Hi Geir🖐 Yes, there are little marks on the saw blade cover, but these only signify where the blade is at full depth relative to the saw body and not the track👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
that toe-in stuff somehow does not sit well with me, because even a minimal misalignment as you've shown would mean the cut leaves a slightly concave edge (or at least not square) and the resulting cerf is wider than the blade. I'm not a pro, but something like that does not sound right at all. am i wrong?
Hi there🖐You are correct on that, if you plunge the blade in/down, and move the saw forward, technically, the part of that initial cut will not be in the same line as the direction of the saws travel. However, this is so minimal as to be non relevant to the accuracy of the cut for its intended purpose. You are also correct in your assessment of the kerfs potential to be wider than the blade, but it's more the case that the blade, very slightly, binds at the rear, downwards, part of its rotation against the 'waste' side of the material, which is preferable to catching the 'good' side of the material causing break out on the bottom face of the material. (effectively, the rear rotation of the blade does not touch the cut edge of the front part of the cut, which is why it leaves it so clean) Hope that makes sense and thanks for your great comment 👍 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter heh, ok, i was secondguessing myself about that for a while, thanks for confirmation. 😁 Also I see how that's preferable vs.teeth marks on the workpiece side. You are right. There's a method to everything 👍 Oh, it slipped my mind in the first comment, but big thanks for your vid! I learned there's one more variable to consider when I'll start obsessing about squareness again (next cabinet i guess) 😁😅
very useful information mate and good video. subbed. quick question my saw is cutting too close to the track only have about .5mm left on the rubber is it the 2 alan key screws that adjust to push the blade away abit? thanks
Hi there🖐5mm is plenty far enough away from the track, and I think mine is only half that👊The only way to adjust the saw body on the base is by the 4 cross head screw in the underside of the base plate, but be careful, as this can affect the blades toe in which can cause problems when cutting👍Cheers Del
@@ChefsHatPk Ah, OK, then, yes, that is very close. Out of curiosity, I will check my saw, a see I there is any other way of moving the blade relative to the saw👍
Is it worth buying the DSP600 instead of the SP6000J if I plan to use the DSP600 with standard 2mm blades? Standard blades are cheaper and more readily available, but will the DSP600 handle them well? I assume many people face this dilemma due to the expensive and thin blades required for the DSP600. What is your opinion on the blades for the DSP600 and SP6000J?
Hi there🖐Great question, and although I DO run wider kerf blades in my Flexvolt 190mm circular saw, I haven't considered it in my battery track saw🤔The thin kerfs are only on these cordless machines to improve run time, and apart from shortening battery time, I can't see why a thicker kerf blade could not be used. What you would need to do though, is reset the saw body a little further out on the saws base so you don't cut off all the anti splinter part👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Do you think there's no issue with using a standard blade from the SP6000J, which has a thickness of around 2-2.4mm, instead of the atypical, thin 1.4mm blade (designed for the DSP600) in the DSP600 saw? The only concern would be the guide rail and trimming the splinter guard? If I cut the splinter guard with a thicker 2-2.4mm blade, will there be a gap between the splinter guard and the thin 1.4mm blade? Is that the main issue? If I use only the thicker blades (2-2.4mm) from the beginning and don't use the thin blades at all, there shouldn't be a problem, right?
It looks like there is about 4 inches of excess length where the saw is fully seated before dropping out, on either side. I'm assuming thats the 7 inch difference for the standard 48 inch plywood in thr US, so the 55 inch rail can give you a perfect 48 inch cut
Hi Old King Crow🖐This is a 1.5 meter rail which is about 300mm longer than a standard 4ft wide board(8x4 in metric is 1220mm x 2440mm) This gives you around 300mm(or 12 inches) to play with😲. The track I was given though, is exactly the length you described at 1.4 meters leaving only it, as you say, around 7/8" longer👍Thanks watching 🤩 Cheers Del
I'm surprised this is not considered as a fundamental flaw in the track saw design. If it's normal to have the blade pointing inwards, that means the cut will never be square. The bottom tip of the blade will have a slight less toe in compared to the top end of the cut. This will cause the cut to be slightly beveled. I'd choose chipping every day of the week over sacrificing squareness. I would love to hear your thoughts on that.
Hi there🖐 I understand the technicality of what you are saying ,and based on the the circumference of the saw blade, you are correct. However, the amount that the cut would be out of square would be almost immeasurable and within the context of timber material, more or less irrelevant. Toeing the blade in slightly, not only reduces chipping but also prevents the rear of the blade binding/burning👍Great comment😎Cheers Del
Interesting you should say that, here's my experience from Australia. I bought my cordless makita tracksaw specifically to join hardwood timber slabs into outdoor tables for a mate who has a beachfront cafe. 35mm was the approx thickness, so probably not the best application for the saw, however it did the job fine. Nice straight 2.6 metre cuts thanks to the long track I bought with the saw. When I went to test clamp the join (1 join only, natural edge each side) there was almost noticeable angle to the join. Long story short, my mate got me to keep the 2 outdoor tables on that angle so the rain would run off easily, and on the inside table I reversed the cut so the join balanced out. But surprised as hell my brand new just out of the box tracksaw didn't cut square.
I don’t think the squareness is as insignificant as most people think. I did that math and half a millimeter toe could actually result in a 1 degree bevel. This defies the purpose of using the track saw as a jointer. I found that get best way to deal with this situation is to flip every other board in the glue up and it will be perfectly flat. Don’t forget to mark the cut side. I hope this helps.
@@fusionlabs6215 I guess you're right, because when butting 2 boards together that have been cut from the same side, the 'angle' left by the blades toeing in will be double🤔
Do you have any helpful hints for getting the blade to cut at 90? Putting a square on the blade doesn't do it for me. I've had the saw on the track and a square on a piece of ply and it shows it being at 90 but when I cut 2 pieces I get a gap when I flip one piece over. There are the 2 set screws in the bottom of the base that I've adjusted and I guess I just need to creep up on 90. But how do you get BOTH set screws dialed in to the same setting?
Hi there Boran. My saw is brand new, and was cutting perfectly at 90 degrees, so I can't offer any advice on setting this up. It sounds like you're almost there though, and I will, (out of interest), have a little look at mine and see what I can see. 👍 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Did you cut 2 narrow strips of wood and check that way? And can you imagine how to get both set screws set equally? If you think of a way let me know. Thus far I haven't found anything on YT or the regular interwebs. :-/
@@ThekiBoran Hi Boran. I didn't check the way you describe, I simply cut a piece of 18mm MDF and screwed at right angles to another piece, and checked it for square. (which it was). I'll check the way you suggest as well and come back to you if I find out anything. Cheers.
I have the same problem. For the set screws, lower them to just below where they stick up. Press a small flat metal disk (galvo, socket back box tab) onto the top of the thread and raise the screws until they stop against the metal. Now turn each screw by the exact same number or turns or part turns.
Hi Rowan🖐That's a tricky one to answer. The 680 with an adapter is a very poor relation to the dedicated, Makita track saw, and I only use mine for rougher, 1st fix cuts👍BUT, the dedicated track saw is a big investment for a more casual user🤔Cheers Del
I dont really understand the toe in. I get that it can reduce tear out from the rear of the blade, but ive found it sort of makes the initial shallow pass useless. As when you make a deeper cut, the front of the blade takes off more material anyway, as opposed to the centre of the blade on the shallow cut. Also, if following the recommendation of having the teeth slightly coming through the other side when cutting, the top of the material is being cut by the front of the blade whereas the bottom of the material is being cut by the center of the blade. It must throw it out of square ever so slightly surely?
Hi there🖐Everything you say is 'theoretically' correct👍but in reality, timber isn't that precise a material, so the way we set these saws up, overall, gives the best cuts😎Thanks for watching and your comment 🤩Cheers Del
Well done, good information. One question, I’ve just unboxed mine and did a dry run and you answered much of my concerns. Is the .5° offset built into the adjusting screws?
The next time you do kitchen that has laminate worktops to cut and install could you do a quick video on tips when using the plunge saw to cut them? I've got the corded makita but it always seems leave small chips in the laminate which is annoying. Cutting the worktops upside down helps to reduce chipping but makes it awkward in some cases. I've seen the newer makita efficut blade for the plunge saw so I will try swapping the blade out for a perfect cut. Thanks for the tips 👍
Hi there. I don't do many laminate worktops but will definitely do a video on fitting them the next time I do. I usually just plunge a regular circular saw down into the worktops when cutting out sinks/hobs and finish into the corners with a jigsaw. There is a small amount of chipping but never enough to show once the sink/hob is fitted.👊 Thanks for your comment.
Hi Del, you will start to wonder how did you ever survive without a track saw, they are game changers. I have the same saw and when it came to change the blade I put in a Freud, it cuts beautifully, better than the Makita supplied from new IMO.
@@johnrevell273 Thanks for the tip on the Freud blade John, as I agree that the one supplied isn't the greatest.😬 Your right about the saw as well. Id already be lost without it.🤩 Thanks for your comment.😎
Join two 1.4 mtrs together for longer planks and boards. You can buy a 3 mtr track. It works perfectly. When not in use you need to store it flat on a table so it doesn't bend
Have you thought about trying out anti friction tape, I’ve seen other TH-camrs do it on the Accucut from Kreg to take the play out. Got some of that tape on the way and will let you know how it works out.
Hi Tall Carpenter, Perhaps you might have insight into the following issue I am having. I have the corded version. When I plunge about 2.5cm in or less it does not cut fully to the end of the rubber edge guide - there is a fraction of material that still remains (about half a milimetre). When I plunge fully in, (5.5cm) it cuts right up until the edge which is perfect. I prefer not to make full plunges every-time for thinner stock. There is no side to side movement on the track. The blade to the base plate is perfect 90. Any ideas?
@@thetallcarpenter Hi Del, Thank you for replying. I was actually doing some more testing on 16mm melamine. If I make a normal cut (about 20mm of blade on the depth setting) it leaves a fraction of material behind. If I do the exact same cut full depth into the same piece of melamine (5.5cm) if cleans the material up, leaving no gap (flush with the splinter guard and perfect. Ive tested this by beveling the saw too. Same result. I only get a perfectly clean cut, flush with the splinterguard if I use the depth setting at 5.5cm. I hope this makes sense... It may just be the stock blade?
@@blakemartin2481 Hi Blake. I get you now, and it's not something I can advise on as I've not had my saw long. I will, however, keep an eye out for what you are finding, as I have found a few other little things about this saw that are not quite right and need looking at👍Cheers Del
Yes I believe it probably is cut speed. I don’t get it every time . I have 8 coming up and know I have a lot to come off the lip edges. I will obviously be starting with a new blade on the track saw. It’s just a pain when you do get the blade burn as it’s hard to get out. I may try cutting in two passes to reduce the weight of the final cut. Thoughts???
Has anyone had any issue with getting square cuts? I have had issues with getting the saw to cut perfectly 90. It is driving me nuts. I know there is a set screw on the bottom for calibration but still haven't been able to get it taken care of. Anyone have any tips or videos to help?
Hi Matthew. Its not something I've come across, and maybe someone reading these comments might be able to help🤞 I'm actually going to do a dedicated track saw setting video, and will definitely have a look at this particular setting😎
@@thetallcarpenter yes hopefully someone sees this and can give me some advice lol. My friend told me his friend had the same issue with the makita saw and that's why he switched to festool. So I guess I am not the only one who has had this issue. But hopefully i can get it figured out. awesome thank you. I'll be looking forward to that video.
But one more significant issue I guess plunge saw faulty as even adjusted narrow washers didn't help me to align into rails. So caused cutting rubber line. I refer to makita sorting as under warranty
So, when first cutting the splinter guard,, a small amount will be left over on either end, because of not pushing the saw to the very end. So, looks like buying another track to connect, is the only accurate way to finish trimming the splinter rail.
Hi there. Ultimately, if you're not going to push the saw past the point that it comes out of the rail, then it wouldn't ultimately matter if the splinter guard was completely cut or not.👍 Thanks for your comment. 😎
Hi there🖐The 1.5m track is perfect for cutting 4ft/1.2m wide boards as long as you get it in the right position👍I would like to get a 3m long one, but I wouldn't be able to fit it in my van😵Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
My makita track adjustments keep coming loose as I use the saw they turn every so slightly and they are hard to turn so they are tight the saw itself has seen very little use I’ve looked at the festool adjustment much better design I am ashamed of makita they seem to miss the perfect tool design just by that much all the time and all my makita tracks everyone of them is a different width from lot to lot makes me angry !
Hi PB🖐Its not good to hear that you're adjusters keep loosening😬and I can imagine it very irritating🙄Fingers crossed, mine are OK, and I,ve also noticed that both my Makita tracks are very slightly different🤨Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
Yes these are only small tips. However, I'm extremely grateful for your insight and experience regarding this tool as in my opinion this knowledge is absolutely crucial. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Hi there🖐I appreciate your comment 😊 and thanks for watching🤩Cheers Del
Great video - straightforward and useful. The marks on the track sound like one of those common sense ideas that should make it into future tracks, so we get them out of the box - you should submit it as a feature request. Thanks for the tips.
Hi Ravi. I look at things in a technical way, and any little things I can do to make things easier to use and more efficient seem worthwhile.🤩 Thanks for watching and your comment.👍 Cheers
Brilliant! Never really considered why the end of the cut - and the beginning - seems to dog leg ever so slightly. Of course, when you point it out, it is very obvious. the 2 points of contact are a good way of minimising any variation due to distortion of the track and/or the saw base. However, if only one of them is in contact with the track, well...
Thanks for sharing something so obvious, but overlooked by many of us.
Hi there. A lot of things are not obvious until someone points them out.😜 Thanks for watching and your comment.😎 Cheers
Just a side note to this I found that the Freud blade from screwy which is 1.7 mm does not bend unlike the Makita blade which comes with the unit which I found holy useless.... I suggest swapping to a thicker blade that doesn't bend in your hand when you take it out of the packet and you'll find that your cuts are a straight line . (I am mostly cutting through 18mm chipboard over 580 mm distamce
This is an excellent example for why it's good to have a track that is long enough to do a proper cut.
Hi Boran. You're exactly right. 👍 Thanks for watching and your comment. 😎
Get 3 m track you wouldn't regret it
@@ralphgoudswaard3298
I've got festool tracks, 3000mm, 1800mm and I think it's a 1200mm.
And the moral of the story is always look at the all aspects of your tools and know there full capabilities and there down sides because they all have them, great vid mr Tall 👍
Hi Jim. I'm quits a logical guy, and it seems sense to know your kit to get the best out of it.🤩 Great comment.👍
This is an excellent setup video! Thank you. My corded 6000 came out of the box about 1.5mm toe Out. I did the test you did and the back of the blade clearly was closer to the cut. I loosened the 4 base screws and put the sole plate with a toe in like you describe. The cutting is now as I expected, dead straight and very clean.
Hi Edward. That great to hear you've got your saw set up spot on👍 I'm loving mine and wouldn't be without now😎 Cheers
Wish someone could do a video on this mine is cutting the splinter guard more everytime very annoying
@@TSMATTYC17 when i got mine i didnt check by making a test cut, the saw was toed in the wrong way as described in main comment here.
How did you align the toe in?
Super tips and explanations. Just bought a Makita TS and will be marking the track to avoid over runs as advised. Many thanks.
Hi Hanzon🖐I definitely find knowing where the saw is relative to the edge of the board really helpful 😀 Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
I’ve just got my first makita track saw, so great info cheers :)
Hi there🖐Ah, you are experiencing that lovely 'new tool' feeling🤩All tge best with it👍Cheers Del
Great video and very useful tips that can be overlooked or not even considered. Thanks
Cheers bud🤩and thanks for watching 😎
As always - thank you so much Del for making yet another deeply informative video. I’ve got a makita track and plunge saw -
I took the “plunge” Ho ho- having been very unhappy with the cuts I got with my makita circular saw using a makita plastic sled and metal bar thing that converts it for use on the track - which is just too bendy - and it produced non straight inconsistent cuts. The 36v lxt plunge saw is cracking and a step change in precision - however I’ve noticed that it sometimes starts to bind right at the end of the cut at the end of the board, and I couldn’t work out why but presumed I was being undisciplined with how I was pushing it, or the track somehow was bending over the end . No !!!! It’s what you’ve just pointed out - when an eccentric cam goes off the end. It’s so obvious now you’re pointed it out - and I just hadn’t worked it out. I feel so stupid !!! Thanks so much - this will allow me to cut right to the ends of boards properly !
You stand out again and again as being so knowledgable and experienced, pointing out things that other TH-camrs I suspect don’t even know, but are so valuable. Thank you.
Hi JH🖐I'm glad my video helped you reach plunge saw perfection in your cuts🤩and thanks for watching and leaving such a lovely comment🤗Cheers Del
I purchased the Makita cordless brushless 36V track saw two Years ago. It has proved to be a great bit of kit. I had a Bosch 110V corded track saw prior to the Makita. That was a great workshop saw but I needed the portability and flexibility of a cordless track saw. I sold the Bosch and bought the Makita and I've been very happy with it. I bought two 1.4m tracks and joined them permanently with the joining kit. I have a slot in the back of my van for it. It just fits, the van is a 2007 Toyota Hiace L.W.B. I also purchased a shorter 1m track for shorter cuts. I find the supplied narrow kerf blade has a tendency to deflect a bit if one is taking a narrow sliver off the end of a sheet. I might swap it out for a full kerf Freud Diablo or a full kerf Festool blade. The anti-tilt feature on the Makita is a great idea and I don't think any other T.S on the market has it. The scoring cut feature is brilliant as well and correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is exclusive to the Makita as well. There are only two negatives I have found with it. It is slightly under powered for hardwoods and better quality softwoods. It struggles with the likes of trimming solid doors, fire doors etc. The dept of cut is a bit limited as well. That said with two fully charged 6ah batteries and a sharp blade one can do a lot with this saw. On heavier cuts I use two passes to get through the material. I'm keeping my eyes open for a new 40V track saw from Makita, 🔨🔨 🇮🇪
Hi TN. That's a great review mate, and although it's still early days for me with saw, I can't disagree with any of what you've written. 😎 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter Cheers T.C, 👍 😁 🔨 🇮🇪
@@Toyotaamazon80series 👍
I made an octagon dining table using 2 1/4” thick rock maple that had been stored for over 40 years. I used the 36 volt Makita track saw. Their 28 tooth blade does a great job of ripping hardwood. As for trimming a little of the end of sheet goods, it’s always better to cut with any blade cutting with material on both sides of even if it’s only a 1/16” on the outside.
I just picked up a Makita yesterday. Very helpful tips. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Bradley. I hope those little tips help. I've just fitting my first kitchen using this saw and track and its a real game changer for cutting down end panels. 😎 Cheers.
Those bosses or lands set in from end of base allow a full millimeter of play side to side when one is out of channel which I noticed when I first cut my splinter guard & messed up both ends. When cutting splinter guard most people use scoring depth or a little more. That makes those locating lands go beyond the track ends even more because only a short section of blade is sticking out. To trim a new splinter guard I use 2 attached tracks & leap frog them to to cleanly cut splinter guard end to end. In cutting wood if you run the blade deeper it allows cutting longer lengths without side to side slop & the need for longer or paired rails.
Hi Don🖐Great observation and you are spot on with what you say👍I've found, with use, that the splinter guard get cut back a little further than the blade path anyway, and I have to allow this when lining up the track on my marks. Maybe it's time to replace the splinter guard🤔Great comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I've messed up two dplinter guards. So annoyed with myself
Thank you so much for this video... I never knew that you could adjust across a lateral plane. Off now just recalibrated it and I used the scribe cut facility to ensure that my back cuts are good and also the forward cut was cutting up into the rubber. That way my waste side cuts and my keeps cuts are perfect. It's like using a brand new blade again.
👌
That's brilliant that my video has helped you get your saw back on track😉and cutting like new👊Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Hi Tall carpenter (even though I might be even taller). I like your videos. I run Festool, but the few Makita things I own have not been disappointing. Track saws are amazing and I bought my first Festool some 20 years ago (when they were the only one on the market). Since then my biggest revelation has been getting a 2700mm rail. I can cut full sheets without the problems you address in this video. Might be a bit long to haul around, but I do most shop work these days. Connecting the rails works, but not nearly as good. Another game changer is the HKC 55 FSK 420 (tracksaw/plungesaw mounted on its own small rail) Like having a mitresaw at the end of your arms. Perfect for making angled or 90 cut since the angle of the rail is easily adjustable.
Hi there my fellow tall carpenter.🖐 I can absolutely see how the 2.7m rail would be super useful, and I'd love to get one. The only problem is it wont fit in the back of my van and I don't want to start cutting the bulkhead to pass it through.😬 I just had a quick look at the saw you mentioned and it looks really cool. (expensive though). I've got a similar, (poor mans), set up with a short length of track and a track adapter fitted to my Makita dhs680. Works really well on joists and bigger rafter plumb cuts.😁 Thanks for watching and your great comment.😎 Cheers.
I think Festool saw base doesn’t have the problem of losing contact with guide channel at beginning & end of rail noted in this video.
Thanks for the tips. I didn't know about the toe-in set up.
Hi there. The toe in is to reduce break out to the underside of the work peice from the rear of the blade on its down stroke. Thanks for watching. 😎
I just ordered the corded version with the 1400mm track. I like your tip to mark the extremes of the track where the saw track alignment points lose contact. I’ll definitely look at longer tracks if I need to break down full size 2400x1200 boards. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Hi John. Like me, you'll wonder how you managed with it once you've had it a while🙄 A longer track would make cutting down 8x4's much quicker than doing a double hit with a shorter rail😬 I just cant fit a 3m track in my van😥 Great comment and thanks for watching😎
Another great video. I’ve got the 110v makita plungesaw but ordered the 36v body only version as my opinion theses tracksaws are a game changer on site work there awesome tools
Hi Neil. To be honest I feel like a bit of a donkey not getting one of these saws sooner.😣 I've got chippie mates who've been using them for years, and they've always told me how great they are.😎 I'm slowly becoming less of a dinosaur.😜 Thanks for watching.
Hello Tall Carpenter, If you extend the track either with a longer one ,or as I do join two together, so they extend before and after the material to be cut problem solved. Its a problem that if the saw is used as designed does not exist . I found your findings on the saw alignment very interesting Keep up the good work
Hi Anthony🖐You're right bud, and I find the marks useful when cutting 4 foot wide sheets👍Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Assembly instructions were a little unclear for a couple of items. It works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh though, easy to set up and use. If the instructions were better I would have given it 5 stars.
That's what my wife says😵Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
A very educational video and learned a lot about track saw..
That's great Josehmaru👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Nice things to know and appreciate your teaching
My pleasure🫡and thanks for your comment 🤩 Cheers Del
I bought the corded version a month ago and just received the guide track which I bought separately. I was testing my saw last night and was wondering about the slop you get at the ends. I haven't used it yet, when I saw that slop I was wondering how to avoid that when I trim my splinter strip. This video helped me to understand how to deal with this. The other advice was great also. Thank you,
Hi there. That's great that my video helped.🤩 I've been getting on great with the saw, and can't believe I've been so long getting one.🤪 Cheers.
Join another track to cut right to the end.
@@kizzjd9578 Hi there. A lot of people have reported difficulties in lining two of these rails up to get a nice straight cut.😩 I've not tried to so cant really comment.😁 Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter use the tso grc. They automatically align the tracks when tightened.
@@kizzjd9578 👍😎
Never noticed this before will check next time I use my festool one had it 10 years as well.
Every day is a school day spesh what you big guy.
Appreciate your comment Dez.😎 Cheers
I was realy thinking of getting one . But I decided on the dhs900 . 36 v 235 mm blade . Tilts to 60 degs . It’s base fits on the track . Awesome saw . Very heavy but glides easy on track
Hi Terry. Got a couple of pals who run the same set up as you. Its a very flexible option.😃 Thanks for you comment.👍
Thanks a lot for these very udefull tips and insights 🙂
My pleasure Immanuel🤩Cheers Del
Great, thanks for video as I used first time today, unsuccessfully set
Glad the video helped Tomas👊Cheers Del
Great video. The markings are a great tip. Better safe than sorry.
Hi there🖐Those marks just give me one less thing to have to think about when I cutting wider boards👊Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
Love this saw my brother looks at me like I’m crazy every time I bring it out
He just doesn't understand Bob😲Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
very smart way of doing things!
Cheers RZ🤩
Good tip. Explains why the replacement splinter guard on my Titan has not trimmed straight and is off the first few inches. Will run the rail with a replaced guard after an existing rail next time.
Hi there. The toe in only has to he small just enough to stop the rear of the blade spoiling the cut. Thanks for watching and your comment. 😎
@@thetallcarpenter do you adjust the toe in by the track tightness thumb screws?
@@kizzjd9578 Hi there. No, there is 4 little screws in the base plate that you loosen to adjust the toe. The back only needs to be out a tiny amount though. (a couple of thicknesses of paper).👍 Cheers.
excellent tips and insight. Thanks for sharing
Hi Tony. I always want to try and get best out of my tools to help me do the best job possible. The details in this video are only small, are still relevant. Thanks for watching and your comment. 😉Cheers.
Excellent tips, thank you 👍
Thanks Jindrich🤩Cheers Del
The next investment is the 3m rail which makes whole sheet cutting so easy. You can also cut a 1.5m rail into say 900 and 600 and you have a whole assortment of rail lengths to hand for different size pieces.
Hi Richard. You're absolutely right.😎 I have been gifted a 1.4m rail which I'm going to cut down to maybe 1m. (so will have a 1.5 and 1m). I would buy a 3m track tomorrow, but its too long to fit in the van.😬 I was using the saw and rail yesterday while kitchen fitting, and I still feel such a donkey for not getting one years ago.🙈 Thanks for your comment.👍
Good idea, thanks.
@@bartbug1 Cheers bud. 🍻
@@elliottgeorge5850 Hi there🖐I actually just push my 1.5m rail along when cutting 8foot sheets, but it's not ideal as the slight toe in on the blade leaves a small step in the cut when re plunge on the 2nd pass😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@elliottgeorge5850 It depends what you want to use it for🤔I use a normal circular saw with a rail adapter, but it very '1st fix' as you have to pull the blade guard back and then plunge the saw👍The dedicated plunge saw is very much '2nd fix' producing excellent cuts in board materials👊Cheers Del
The second part of your video i thought was very clever, not sure how you learned about the slight toe in angle of the blade to saw shoe but thats very important to understand about the saw. I saw another youtuber who was doing a video about alternative saw blades he was trying on his Makita track saw because his was always burning the wood. 90% chance that his toe in is too much and is binding in the wood. Maybe you could do another video on how to adjust this.......Thank you so much.
Hi there🖐I've always known about toeing a saw blade in at the front to reduce chip out at the back of the cut, but the key to this in these track saws is how much toe in, and crucially, how to check it🤔 The way I show how I check this in the video just seemed logical👊I will do another video just focusing on this and how to set it correctly👍Thanks for your great comment and for watching 😎Cheers Del
Nice tip 👍🏽. Appreciate it.
My pleasure🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
nice I'm getting the dsp601zj once its back in stock and they were some handy tips
Its a great saw. 👍 Thanks for watching. 😎
very interesting, Thank you for the video.
Hi there. You're welcome🤩 Thanks for watching😎
Excellent video mate
Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hey - I thought I would let you know that your video got a mention in one on my channel where I trim the splinter guard on a 3m rail.
Hi there🖐That's awesome bud🤩I'm gonna check it out🤓Cheers Del
What’s the reason behind having the 0.5 deg. toe in on the frontside? I would think that would screw with things when having to make plunge cuts.
Hi there. I actually think its a bit less than 0.5 degrees. Toeing the blade in at the front, (or more actually, out at the back), stops the rear of the blade spoiling the cut as it travels downwards through the material.😃 And you are quite right, that a plunge cut is actually out of line with the guide/track but only by a tiny amount.👍 Great comment and a good eye for that detail.👊Cheers.
This video was so helpful! I was just about to send back my saw and/or TSO rail square because I couldn’t get square plunge cuts. I had no idea about the toe-in. Thank you!!!
Good strong machine, i like the cut
It's been great so far bud🤞Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I am thinking to buy HS004G😊
What you call toe in, is actually adjustable. There are four screws in the base to do that.
Hi Greg. You're quite right.🤩. And if mine every needs adjustment I'll probably do a video.😎. Thanks for comment.
I just adjusted mine from 1.5mm toe out to about 0.1mm toe in. It couldn’t cut 1” chipboard without bogging down, now it cuts like it should!
@@EdwardT9curious about how you went about adjusting the saw. I'm considering switching to Festool if this is doesn't get resolved.
@@fusionlabs6215 I believe I loosened the 4 screws on the baseplate and realigned the track grooves with the blade then retightened the screws.
Great review. One other significant issue - if either guide is allowed to drop out at the beginning or end of a cut - is that the slop in tracking will butcher the accuracy of the rubber splinter guard-guide, which impairs its major function of lining-up to your mark at each end.
Quite true Peter, and this will be damage the splinter guard significantly if the blade is all the way out😖 Another reason to keep it in the guides👍 Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎
Great question.. I just purchased the makita track saw .. anxiously waiting for delivery.. I thought the same would possibly damage the rubber track .. do u find that u need to buy the 39 inch track along with 55 inch ?
@@scottbertrand2057 Hi Scott. I just have the 1.5m track (59")and find this is all I need for cutting down 8'x4' sheets and also door bottoms etc😎 Cheers and all the best with your new saw👊
@@thetallcarpenter since u have a track saw .. do u think I should have purchased a battery or corded saw? I ordered a corded on that in can operate it with a vacuum switch..
@@scottbertrand2057 Hi Scott. I don't think there is any right or wrong with corded/cordless. I have a remote switch on my extractor hose, but the Makita chip thing works even better😎 Cheers
Makita's track saw, I think with the kunlun tooth diamond saw blade, the cutting effect will be better
Hi there🖐I've never seen that blade, but will check them out👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter You can go to my home page, there is a video about this saw blade. Your experience is definitely different.
Great video, thanks
Cheers Michael.😎
Hi, a video explaining how to adjust toe in or out would be most useful
Hi Chris🖐When my saw needs adjusting, I'll be sure to make a video👊Cheers Del
Great video. When I'm using my Makita track saw with the tracks it's leaving burn marks on 12mm thick MDF (the blade is sharp and clean). On the off chance it is the toe-in you mentioned how would I adjust this?
Hi Lestyn. There is 4 cross head screws in the base that you loosen to adjust saw body on the base. Adjust it so the front of the blade is very slightly further in than the back. You can check if its right by plunging the saw in mid way down a board and then replunge the saw further back up the same cut line and bring it down to where the rear of the first cut was. You should see a tiny step in the two cuts the same as in the video.👍 Look from 4:51 onwards and specifically 6:37.
@@thetallcarpenter Brilliant. Thank you.
@@iestynjones5796 👍😎
Top tip thanks mate.
Cheers mate. 😎 Thanks for watching. 👍
Great videos thumbs up from me
Thumbs up backatcha Jack.👍 Thanks for watching and your nice comment.😎Cheers
Great idea with the marks on the track, but dosent the resess on the base indicate back and front of the blade fully plunged?
Hi Geir🖐 Yes, there are little marks on the saw blade cover, but these only signify where the blade is at full depth relative to the saw body and not the track👍Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Can we correct the half degree toe in angle? Mine is burning wood on non-motor side
Hi there🖐Adjustment is made via the 4 black headed screws in the base plate👍Cheers Del
that toe-in stuff somehow does not sit well with me, because even a minimal misalignment as you've shown would mean the cut leaves a slightly concave edge (or at least not square) and the resulting cerf is wider than the blade. I'm not a pro, but something like that does not sound right at all. am i wrong?
Hi there🖐You are correct on that, if you plunge the blade in/down, and move the saw forward, technically, the part of that initial cut will not be in the same line as the direction of the saws travel. However, this is so minimal as to be non relevant to the accuracy of the cut for its intended purpose. You are also correct in your assessment of the kerfs potential to be wider than the blade, but it's more the case that the blade, very slightly, binds at the rear, downwards, part of its rotation against the 'waste' side of the material, which is preferable to catching the 'good' side of the material causing break out on the bottom face of the material. (effectively, the rear rotation of the blade does not touch the cut edge of the front part of the cut, which is why it leaves it so clean) Hope that makes sense and thanks for your great comment 👍 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter heh, ok, i was secondguessing myself about that for a while, thanks for confirmation. 😁 Also I see how that's preferable vs.teeth marks on the workpiece side. You are right. There's a method to everything 👍
Oh, it slipped my mind in the first comment, but big thanks for your vid! I learned there's one more variable to consider when I'll start obsessing about squareness again (next cabinet i guess) 😁😅
@zoladkow It's hard if you like to be super accurate with your joints, and I can definitely relate to your desire to get things 'perfect'🤓
very useful information mate and good video. subbed. quick question my saw is cutting too close to the track only have about .5mm left on the rubber is it the 2 alan key screws that adjust to push the blade away abit? thanks
Hi there🖐5mm is plenty far enough away from the track, and I think mine is only half that👊The only way to adjust the saw body on the base is by the 4 cross head screw in the underside of the base plate, but be careful, as this can affect the blades toe in which can cause problems when cutting👍Cheers Del
Thanks for subscribing🤩
@@thetallcarpenter sorry i should have put the 0 in there i meant 0.5mm
@@ChefsHatPk Ah, OK, then, yes, that is very close. Out of curiosity, I will check my saw, a see I there is any other way of moving the blade relative to the saw👍
@@thetallcarpenter thanks mate that would be incredible!
Is it worth buying the DSP600 instead of the SP6000J if I plan to use the DSP600 with standard 2mm blades? Standard blades are cheaper and more readily available, but will the DSP600 handle them well? I assume many people face this dilemma due to the expensive and thin blades required for the DSP600. What is your opinion on the blades for the DSP600 and SP6000J?
Hi there🖐Great question, and although I DO run wider kerf blades in my Flexvolt 190mm circular saw, I haven't considered it in my battery track saw🤔The thin kerfs are only on these cordless machines to improve run time, and apart from shortening battery time, I can't see why a thicker kerf blade could not be used. What you would need to do though, is reset the saw body a little further out on the saws base so you don't cut off all the anti splinter part👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Do you think there's no issue with using a standard blade from the SP6000J, which has a thickness of around 2-2.4mm, instead of the atypical, thin 1.4mm blade (designed for the DSP600) in the DSP600 saw? The only concern would be the guide rail and trimming the splinter guard? If I cut the splinter guard with a thicker 2-2.4mm blade, will there be a gap between the splinter guard and the thin 1.4mm blade? Is that the main issue? If I use only the thicker blades (2-2.4mm) from the beginning and don't use the thin blades at all, there shouldn't be a problem, right?
how do you adjust the toe in? My saw binds and I have to keep lifting it a re-plunging it to get through my cut
Hi there. If you turn the saw upside down, you will see 4 cross head screws in the base. Loosen theses slightly, adjust the toe, and then retighten 👍
Outstanding
Cheers Keith😎Thanks for watching 👍Cheers Del
It looks like there is about 4 inches of excess length where the saw is fully seated before dropping out, on either side.
I'm assuming thats the 7 inch difference for the standard 48 inch plywood in thr US, so the 55 inch rail can give you a perfect 48 inch cut
Hi Old King Crow🖐This is a 1.5 meter rail which is about 300mm longer than a standard 4ft wide board(8x4 in metric is 1220mm x 2440mm) This gives you around 300mm(or 12 inches) to play with😲. The track I was given though, is exactly the length you described at 1.4 meters leaving only it, as you say, around 7/8" longer👍Thanks watching 🤩 Cheers Del
I'm surprised this is not considered as a fundamental flaw in the track saw design. If it's normal to have the blade pointing inwards, that means the cut will never be square. The bottom tip of the blade will have a slight less toe in compared to the top end of the cut. This will cause the cut to be slightly beveled.
I'd choose chipping every day of the week over sacrificing squareness. I would love to hear your thoughts on that.
Hi there🖐 I understand the technicality of what you are saying ,and based on the the circumference of the saw blade, you are correct. However, the amount that the cut would be out of square would be almost immeasurable and within the context of timber material, more or less irrelevant. Toeing the blade in slightly, not only reduces chipping but also prevents the rear of the blade binding/burning👍Great comment😎Cheers Del
Interesting you should say that, here's my experience from Australia.
I bought my cordless makita tracksaw specifically to join hardwood timber slabs into outdoor tables for a mate who has a beachfront cafe.
35mm was the approx thickness, so probably not the best application for the saw, however it did the job fine. Nice straight 2.6 metre cuts thanks to the long track I bought with the saw.
When I went to test clamp the join (1 join only, natural edge each side) there was almost noticeable angle to the join.
Long story short, my mate got me to keep the 2 outdoor tables on that angle so the rain would run off easily, and on the inside table I reversed the cut so the join balanced out.
But surprised as hell my brand new just out of the box tracksaw didn't cut square.
I don’t think the squareness is as insignificant as most people think. I did that math and half a millimeter toe could actually result in a 1 degree bevel. This defies the purpose of using the track saw as a jointer. I found that get best way to deal with this situation is to flip every other board in the glue up and it will be perfectly flat. Don’t forget to mark the cut side. I hope this helps.
@@fusionlabs6215 Yep. That's what I did on the indoor table. But you're correct, it's certainly not insignificant on thicker material.
@@fusionlabs6215 I guess you're right, because when butting 2 boards together that have been cut from the same side, the 'angle' left by the blades toeing in will be double🤔
Any tips for getting it back to 90 degrees, or bang on zero…. Find it really fiddly.
Hi Jack🖐I haven't had any reason to adjust mine yer, but I'll definitely do a video as and when I do👍Cheers Del
Do you have any helpful hints for getting the blade to cut at 90? Putting a square on the blade doesn't do it for me. I've had the saw on the track and a square on a piece of ply and it shows it being at 90 but when I cut 2 pieces I get a gap when I flip one piece over. There are the 2 set screws in the bottom of the base that I've adjusted and I guess I just need to creep up on 90. But how do you get BOTH set screws dialed in to the same setting?
Hi there Boran. My saw is brand new, and was cutting perfectly at 90 degrees, so I can't offer any advice on setting this up. It sounds like you're almost there though, and I will, (out of interest), have a little look at mine and see what I can see. 👍 Cheers.
@@thetallcarpenter
Did you cut 2 narrow strips of wood and check that way? And can you imagine how to get both set screws set equally? If you think of a way let me know. Thus far I haven't found anything on YT or the regular interwebs. :-/
@@ThekiBoran Hi Boran. I didn't check the way you describe, I simply cut a piece of 18mm MDF and screwed at right angles to another piece, and checked it for square. (which it was). I'll check the way you suggest as well and come back to you if I find out anything. Cheers.
I have the same problem. For the set screws, lower them to just below where they stick up. Press a small flat metal disk (galvo, socket back box tab) onto the top of the thread and raise the screws until they stop against the metal. Now turn each screw by the exact same number or turns or part turns.
@@edgilligan8506
I'll give that a try as I had to break out my 5,000lbs TS75. The makita it nice and light and I really like the scoring knob.
Helpful, thanks
Thanks for your comment Chris.👍
As a DIY'er, is it worth buying one of these over a DHS680Z+adapter?
Hi Rowan🖐That's a tricky one to answer. The 680 with an adapter is a very poor relation to the dedicated, Makita track saw, and I only use mine for rougher, 1st fix cuts👍BUT, the dedicated track saw is a big investment for a more casual user🤔Cheers Del
I dont really understand the toe in. I get that it can reduce tear out from the rear of the blade, but ive found it sort of makes the initial shallow pass useless. As when you make a deeper cut, the front of the blade takes off more material anyway, as opposed to the centre of the blade on the shallow cut.
Also, if following the recommendation of having the teeth slightly coming through the other side when cutting, the top of the material is being cut by the front of the blade whereas the bottom of the material is being cut by the center of the blade. It must throw it out of square ever so slightly surely?
Hi there🖐Everything you say is 'theoretically' correct👍but in reality, timber isn't that precise a material, so the way we set these saws up, overall, gives the best cuts😎Thanks for watching and your comment 🤩Cheers Del
Have you found that on a max depth plunge the blade isn’t at 90°?
Hi there🖐I found the Makita blade that came on the saw does wander from 90° so I just use a better quality, slightly thicker kerf one👍Cheers Del
Well done, good information. One question, I’ve just unboxed mine and did a dry run and you answered much of my concerns. Is the .5° offset built into the adjusting screws?
Hi there🖐I don't think the 'toe' is built into the adjusters/groove in the base, its adjustment is in the 4 screws that fix it to the saw👍Cheers Del
The next time you do kitchen that has laminate worktops to cut and install could you do a quick video on tips when using the plunge saw to cut them? I've got the corded makita but it always seems leave small chips in the laminate which is annoying. Cutting the worktops upside down helps to reduce chipping but makes it awkward in some cases. I've seen the newer makita efficut blade for the plunge saw so I will try swapping the blade out for a perfect cut. Thanks for the tips 👍
Hi there. I don't do many laminate worktops but will definitely do a video on fitting them the next time I do. I usually just plunge a regular circular saw down into the worktops when cutting out sinks/hobs and finish into the corners with a jigsaw. There is a small amount of chipping but never enough to show once the sink/hob is fitted.👊 Thanks for your comment.
Sticking some masking tape on the face side will help prevent splintering.
@@johnrevell273 Thanks for adding this tip John.🤩
Hi Del, you will start to wonder how did you ever survive without a track saw, they are game changers. I have the same saw and when it came to change the blade I put in a Freud, it cuts beautifully, better than the Makita supplied from new IMO.
@@johnrevell273 Thanks for the tip on the Freud blade John, as I agree that the one supplied isn't the greatest.😬 Your right about the saw as well. Id already be lost without it.🤩 Thanks for your comment.😎
Join two 1.4 mtrs together for longer planks and boards. You can buy a 3 mtr track. It works perfectly. When not in use you need to store it flat on a table so it doesn't bend
Hi Neil🖐I've heard a few guys say it's tricky to get 2 rails lined up🤔
@@thetallcarpenter no not with the Makita tracks
@@neilarmitage6632 Interesting🤔as I occasionally need to cut 8x4 sheets, so joining 2 together would be a good idea👊
@@thetallcarpenter you can get a 3 mtr Makita track
You can get a 3 mtr Makita track
How often do you replace the teal anti friction strips? Im getting sawtoothing and I can't workout what it is
Hi there. I've only had the saw and track a few months so cant comment on your issue I'm afraid.😬 What is, 'sawtoothing'?.
@@thetallcarpenter You might have to google sawtoothing. It's a common term but it's kind of like steps in the cut off.
@@kizzjd9578 Will do mate.👍 Cheers.
Have you thought about trying out anti friction tape, I’ve seen other TH-camrs do it on the Accucut from Kreg to take the play out. Got some of that tape on the way and will let you know how it works out.
Hi Derek🖐I've not used any of the anti friction tape you mention bud, but I will be interested to hear what you think of it🤩Cheers Del
How do you tune the blade so that it's perfect 90?
Hi Ash🖐To adjust the blade to 90° there is usually a grub screw in the saw base that you screw in or out until the blade is exactly 90°👍Cheers Del
Hi Tall Carpenter,
Perhaps you might have insight into the following issue I am having. I have the corded version.
When I plunge about 2.5cm in or less it does not cut fully to the end of the rubber edge guide - there is a fraction of material that still remains (about half a milimetre). When I plunge fully in, (5.5cm) it cuts right up until the edge which is perfect. I prefer not to make full plunges every-time for thinner stock.
There is no side to side movement on the track. The blade to the base plate is perfect 90.
Any ideas?
Hi Blake. I sorry but I cant get my head around what you're describing🤔 Is this happening when you get to the end of the cut? Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Hi Del, Thank you for replying.
I was actually doing some more testing on 16mm melamine. If I make a normal cut (about 20mm of blade on the depth setting) it leaves a fraction of material behind. If I do the exact same cut full depth into the same piece of melamine (5.5cm) if cleans the material up, leaving no gap (flush with the splinter guard and perfect. Ive tested this by beveling the saw too. Same result. I only get a perfectly clean cut, flush with the splinterguard if I use the depth setting at 5.5cm. I hope this makes sense...
It may just be the stock blade?
@@blakemartin2481 Hi Blake. I get you now, and it's not something I can advise on as I've not had my saw long. I will, however, keep an eye out for what you are finding, as I have found a few other little things about this saw that are not quite right and need looking at👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Thanks Del, I look forward to a follow-up video. Keep well.
@@blakemartin2481 😎👍
Hi Del, just picking your brains mate if you don’t mind.
Do you have any tips for preventing blade burn when cutting lead edge of oak doors?
Hi Paul🖐 Is it burning when you stop pushing the saw, or all the way along🤔
Yes I believe it probably is cut speed. I don’t get it every time . I have 8 coming up and know I have a lot to come off the lip edges. I will obviously be starting with a new blade on the track saw. It’s just a pain when you do get the blade burn as it’s hard to get out. I may try cutting in two passes to reduce the weight of the final cut. Thoughts???
@@paulyoull5472 Hi Paul. Yeah, I would try cutting in a couple of passes as that will reduce stress on the blade👍
Has anyone had any issue with getting square cuts? I have had issues with getting the saw to cut perfectly 90. It is driving me nuts. I know there is a set screw on the bottom for calibration but still haven't been able to get it taken care of. Anyone have any tips or videos to help?
Hi Matthew. Its not something I've come across, and maybe someone reading these comments might be able to help🤞 I'm actually going to do a dedicated track saw setting video, and will definitely have a look at this particular setting😎
@@thetallcarpenter yes hopefully someone sees this and can give me some advice lol.
My friend told me his friend had the same issue with the makita saw and that's why he switched to festool. So I guess I am not the only one who has had this issue. But hopefully i can get it figured out.
awesome thank you. I'll be looking forward to that video.
But one more significant issue I guess plunge saw faulty as even adjusted narrow washers didn't help me to align into rails. So caused cutting rubber line. I refer to makita sorting as under warranty
Hi Tomas🖐Sounds like a more serious problem with your saw😬Cheers Del
So, when first cutting the splinter guard,, a small amount will be left over on either end, because of not pushing the saw to the very end. So, looks like buying another track to connect,
is the only accurate way to finish trimming the splinter rail.
Hi there. Ultimately, if you're not going to push the saw past the point that it comes out of the rail, then it wouldn't ultimately matter if the splinter guard was completely cut or not.👍 Thanks for your comment. 😎
Thanks
My pleasure Jim👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Having a lot of problems with the 45 degree cut
That's sounds a pain Robert. 😢 What's the issue?.
your right eye is the dominant eye.
Buy an additional piece of track to ensure you get overhang on a full sheet. No worries
Hi there🖐The 1.5m track is perfect for cutting 4ft/1.2m wide boards as long as you get it in the right position👍I would like to get a 3m long one, but I wouldn't be able to fit it in my van😵Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
My makita track adjustments keep coming loose as I use the saw they turn every so slightly and they are hard to turn so they are tight the saw itself has seen very little use I’ve looked at the festool adjustment much better design I am ashamed of makita they seem to miss the perfect tool design just by that much all the time and all my makita tracks everyone of them is a different width from lot to lot makes me angry !
Hi PB🖐Its not good to hear that you're adjusters keep loosening😬and I can imagine it very irritating🙄Fingers crossed, mine are OK, and I,ve also noticed that both my Makita tracks are very slightly different🤨Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
I dont know why the hell the manufacturers dont make longer ttacks to address this problem
Hi there🖐I guess they provide track joiners so you can make a track to suit your needs🤔Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
you're plunging way too deep!
Hi there. Yes I know, but I set the saw at its maximum depth as this gives the blades maximum offset.👍 Thanks for your comment.
That's what she said...