3:45 If you have two rails, you can connect both of them, then cut the splinter guard of the freshly acquired rail to the end pushing your saw onto the second rail, then reattach/switch rails so the first becomes the second, and continue pushing your saw from the now first rail to the now second one, thus cutting off the previously non-cuttable start of splinter guard.
You’re dead right, at 5:50 I do exactly that. But I did also make the point that it really doesn’t matter if you don’t. I leave my untrimmed bits on rails all the time.
Thanks Karl, this is all useful information, I've recently bought the Makita mains saw with 1m & 1.5m rails, realising now it would probably have been better buying two at 1,5m for a 2.44m cut !
You’ll be fine with what you’ve got and a little care when you move the rail down the sheet to finish the cut. I did say I might make a video about that and a few people have asked and I might do that. Me and a friend were discussing that last week and we both agreed that joining bars lead to you constantly checking the combined rail is straight every time you move it. Anyway thanks for then comment.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thanks Karl, I may buy another 1.5m rail when funds allow, as I'd like to experiment with a crosscut set-up like Peter Millard uses with the 1m rail anyway !
I have your depth marker and the screw port cover. Bought them two days after picking up my makita saw. Then added a piece of tape with metric conversions for fraction values. Wish there was an inch scale upgrade for the saws depth gauge.
Hi, do you still make the depth markers for the makita saws along with the blade width markers for waste side cuts, I can’t see them in the shop. Thanks
Yes, absolutely. You need to go to my website at www.strawbyte.com/merchandise - you'll find both items there. They were also directly linked in the description. I am wondering if folk are being confused by the TH-cam store shelf below the video. TH-cam doesn't allow off-platform products to be listed. Anyway thanks for commenting.
I watched your original video and bought the dust cover before I started using my saw. This might be mentioned elsewhere, but the Cams for adjusting the play on a Makita saw do wear out. After about 3 years mine need replacing. They are cheap and very easy to replace.
Hi Nick. And you’re right they do and I did film a bit where I mentioned it. But the sequence showing the cams on 3 saws ended up replacing it. I will return to this because it’s a key differentiator between branded tools and generic tools. You can get the spares for main brands.
Hi Nick. And you’re right they do and I did film a bit where I mentioned it. But the sequence showing the cams on 3 saws ended up replacing it. I will return to this because it’s a key differentiator between branded tools and generic tools. You can get the spares for main brands.
How do you find the festool joining bars with the Makita rails? I found they work perfectly on my festool rails but need overtightening on Makita rails leaving dents where the grub screws are
To be completely honest I paid £120 with £15 delivery. I was a bit too casual on screen recalling the price from memory. But yes when I saw Elsons price I couldn’t part with my money fast enough.
You certainly can and actually I did want to film and feature that hack, but it didn’t work out as neat as I managed before and I went with replacing the strip instead. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I'm curious how to make the Makita track saw cut the splinter guard so that the saw doesn't cut it more with deeper cuts. I'm new to track saws. I did an initial splinter guard cut at ~25mm depth (for 18mm material). But then, when I was cutting 40+mm material, the splinter guard was cut shorter. So now, for 18mm material, I can't use a splinter guard to align the track. I think it has to do with toe-in alignment, which The Tall Carpenter explained in his video. Depending on the depth of the cut, the front of the blade would be closer or farther from the splinter guard 🤷♂ I'm looking forward to the next track saw videos :) It would be great if you could explain how to make accurate cuts with a Makita track saw.
Thanks for the comment. I'm intrigued by this toe-in amount which is often discussed in forums and am going to look into this further. I have a couple of ideas in mind for an accuracy video to share some thoughts on this. I get questions all the time about my guides and their accuracy, but often respond with a point about consistency being more important than high levels of accuracy. Anyway, I will bear new owners in mind as I sketch that out.
Very good Karl! Everyone needs to revisit tracksaws every now and then... 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter. I appreciate the comment. More to come…. 😀
Yes Peter, you really should be posting more content on tracksaws, I feel you're letting the side down Lol ! 😉
@@andyc972 Just you wait and see… 🤔😆
3:45 If you have two rails, you can connect both of them, then cut the splinter guard of the freshly acquired rail to the end pushing your saw onto the second rail, then reattach/switch rails so the first becomes the second, and continue pushing your saw from the now first rail to the now second one, thus cutting off the previously non-cuttable start of splinter guard.
You’re dead right, at 5:50 I do exactly that. But I did also make the point that it really doesn’t matter if you don’t. I leave my untrimmed bits on rails all the time.
I use your waste side jig and the depth stop jig every time I use my Makita saw. Great vid too 👍
@@ploppythekangaroo hey! Thanks for letting me know and I’m glad you enjoyed the video.
Nice to see you back Karl.thanks for the video I've just bought the Evolution track saw
Thanks. Evolution have some good stuff now.
Karl--I have several of your track saw spacing jigs and they are great. Thank you for that! This was a helpful video as well.
Hey Roger. I thought I recognised the name. Thanks for the feedback and comment.
Great to see you on YT again Karl👍
Thanks 👍
Karl, Good to see you back again. Worthwhile watching thank you.
Thanks. I’m aiming for some more regular content in the coming weeks. K.
An excellent presentation. I have a 2.7m festool track turning up this Monday so this has been quite useful
I’ll let you know a little secret, I trimmed 200mm off the end off that rail so I could get it to fit in my shed racking. Thanks for the comment. K n
Thanks Karl, this is all useful information, I've recently bought the Makita mains saw with 1m & 1.5m rails, realising now it would probably have been better buying two at 1,5m for a 2.44m cut !
You’ll be fine with what you’ve got and a little care when you move the rail down the sheet to finish the cut. I did say I might make a video about that and a few people have asked and I might do that. Me and a friend were discussing that last week and we both agreed that joining bars lead to you constantly checking the combined rail is straight every time you move it. Anyway thanks for then comment.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop Thanks Karl, I may buy another 1.5m rail when funds allow, as I'd like to experiment with a crosscut set-up like Peter Millard uses with the 1m rail anyway !
Really great idea. Im on a Bosch rail and would love something like that as its a bit of guess work getting the depth just right.
Thanks for the comment. And a few folk have mentioned that about Bosch before.
Great video, thanks for the advice.
You’re welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
I have your depth marker and the screw port cover. Bought them two days after picking up my makita saw. Then added a piece of tape with metric conversions for fraction values. Wish there was an inch scale upgrade for the saws depth gauge.
It’s odd that Makita didn’t have an imperial graduated saw for the US market like other brands. Thanks for the comment.
Hi, do you still make the depth markers for the makita saws along with the blade width markers for waste side cuts, I can’t see them in the shop. Thanks
Yes, absolutely. You need to go to my website at www.strawbyte.com/merchandise - you'll find both items there. They were also directly linked in the description.
I am wondering if folk are being confused by the TH-cam store shelf below the video. TH-cam doesn't allow off-platform products to be listed. Anyway thanks for commenting.
I watched your original video and bought the dust cover before I started using my saw. This might be mentioned elsewhere, but the Cams for adjusting the play on a Makita saw do wear out. After about 3 years mine need replacing. They are cheap and very easy to replace.
Hi Nick. And you’re right they do and I did film a bit where I mentioned it. But the sequence showing the cams on 3 saws ended up replacing it. I will return to this because it’s a key differentiator between branded tools and generic tools. You can get the spares for main brands.
Hi Nick. And you’re right they do and I did film a bit where I mentioned it. But the sequence showing the cams on 3 saws ended up replacing it. I will return to this because it’s a key differentiator between branded tools and generic tools. You can get the spares for main brands.
How do you find the festool joining bars with the Makita rails? I found they work perfectly on my festool rails but need overtightening on Makita rails leaving dents where the grub screws are
Hi. I’ve found them ok. I am very conscious to not over tighten the one on the underside too much.
Karl is back, nice to see, will you be going to the Harrogate show this weekend matey ?
Yes. I’ll be there on Sunday morning.
Nice video. Strange that you don’t have the best plunge saw, the 36v Hikoki.
I know, some might say I have too many already! Thanks for the comment.
That's a great price, I've only seen it at about £300 before I think.
To be completely honest I paid £120 with £15 delivery. I was a bit too casual on screen recalling the price from memory. But yes when I saw Elsons price I couldn’t part with my money fast enough.
I just visited your website, I think you may want to update your depth stop listing to make it clear its at revision 9.
Hey thanks for pointing that out - a wee glitch with the update I made this afternoon.
When I go to your store I only see t-shirts , how do I get to order your depth jig ? Thanks
It sounds like you’re in the TH-cam store which only has t-shirts. Go to WWW. STRAWBYTE.COM.
Hola donde puedo encontrar pieza esa que se pone en tope de profundidad
www.strawbyte.com
You can get more life out your splinter guard by removing it and glue it a little bit shifted and than trim again.
You certainly can and actually I did want to film and feature that hack, but it didn’t work out as neat as I managed before and I went with replacing the strip instead. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! I'm curious how to make the Makita track saw cut the splinter guard so that the saw doesn't cut it more with deeper cuts.
I'm new to track saws. I did an initial splinter guard cut at ~25mm depth (for 18mm material). But then, when I was cutting 40+mm material, the splinter guard was cut shorter. So now, for 18mm material, I can't use a splinter guard to align the track. I think it has to do with toe-in alignment, which The Tall Carpenter explained in his video. Depending on the depth of the cut, the front of the blade would be closer or farther from the splinter guard 🤷♂
I'm looking forward to the next track saw videos :) It would be great if you could explain how to make accurate cuts with a Makita track saw.
Thanks for the comment. I'm intrigued by this toe-in amount which is often discussed in forums and am going to look into this further. I have a couple of ideas in mind for an accuracy video to share some thoughts on this. I get questions all the time about my guides and their accuracy, but often respond with a point about consistency being more important than high levels of accuracy. Anyway, I will bear new owners in mind as I sketch that out.
Festool splinter guard is 3 times the cost of makita. Who would have thought? 🙄
💰💰💰
Iv got a smart car lol
You’ll need a 1m or 1.4m rail then. 😁
Really wanted to watch this, but you were shilling too much for Strawbyte. I have a real job.
@@themeat5053 oh well never mind. Move on then…