Gunsmiths Workbench - Don't Wreck Your Grandad's Old Rifle Finish !!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- New to finishing rifle stocks? Practice your finish on cheap furniture first !
Tru-Oil, Danish Oil, Linseed Oil
I am a certified and practicing gunsmith, doing so as a hobby, and these videos are for entertainment and educational purposes only.Gunsmithing and restoring old firearms is a lot of fun and challenging. It can also be dangerous to you or bystanders if proper function checks and safety protocols are not followed. Please seek out a professional gunsmith in your area if you are unsure of anything related to your firearms. Stay safe kids.
All Good In The Wood - Audionautix
Nice work! May I recommend General Finishes Arm R Seal. It applies and functions like tru-oil as you build up the layers but it ultimately more durable. It comes in larger quantities (1qt. minimum) but if priced by cost per ounce it costs less. It can also be tinted and will work with stains. Try tinting it with dye and the color will penetrate the wood much deeper than stain will. Stain on top of dyed wood will hold the color for a very long time.
Those two stocks you said were boy scout drill rifles look almost identical to J.C. Higgins Model 103.13 22 stocks.
Thank you for this! Great advice on practicing on something that’s not a family heirloom. I just finished “practicing” refinishing an H&R Topper I’ve had since I was 8yo in prep to refinish 3 Superposed’s. Glad I did. Made so many mistakes I started over and restripped that H&R 4 times before it didn’t look terrible. Learned a lot. Biggest mistake I made was not confirming the type of wood and applying a coat of sealer before applying stain on the first go around. Result was a blotchy disaster that was very hard to correct. I’d love to see how you matched the stock and forend that were different shades. Thanks again!
I did the same thing with a new sealer a couple years ago. It went on and immediately started to harden, and turned a really nice stock into a blotchy run filled glob. I had to re-strip and start all over and threw that sealer in the shitcan. Never use a new product on a treasured gun stock.
I have a Investarms hawken muzzleloader. When attempting to remove the high gloss finish nothing would cut it until I tried a heat gun.
Thank you for this video. I need to utilize this knowledge.
Nice job on that first one, That looked like a Stevens 250 which is what I'm currently working. Thanks!
Man after my own heart! Subbed, keep up the good work and the content mate.
I'm a big fan of pure Tung oil for stock finish
Nice! I got an old husqvarna stock that someone used varnish on that is gone in some places. I am thinking of removing the varnish and using something like true oil. Got any advice on how I should proceed? thanks!
A friend of mine had me refinish a H&R Topper a while back that was in the same state. I stripped the old finish of, lightly sanded in stages from 220 to 400 grit, and applied several coats of Truoil (wet sanding with 600 grit between coats). SG came out looking great, friend couldn't believe it was the same SG.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations Ok! So do I understand this correctly that you sand off the varnish? Thanks!
@@carlfolmer no sir, I use this product first
www.lowes.com/pd/CitriStrip-Stripping-Gel-1-QT/1000567963
Acetone and 0000 steelwood and rub and rub and rub some more . Take your time.and do it right . Take it down to bare wood and finish it off with a dozen very light well rubbed coat or Truoil
I notice all your finishes are "blonde". I suggest making a traditional gun "Red Oil". It is easy. Order some powdered Alkanet root. Put it in a jar. Pour Boiled linseed oil over it. Shake it daily for six months. Pour off the now blood-red stain. Repeat to make more. Finish the stock however you like. The traditional way would be with an oil-wax finish. But once the stain is in the wood and hardened, finish it however you like.
Remember, factory gun finishes are whatever makes a good-selling gun efficiently. They are not whatever makes the gun last longer.
Need an oil finish and too incompetent to do it myself. You have a contact for your services?
Have you an ithaca double bbl. Flues 12ga stock?
Have you tried to redoing checkering on a Remington 1100? If so, how did you do it? Can’t figure out how to do the “dot” checkering
Dot checkering is made by impressing a steel shape onto a steamed piece of wood. You have two options. 1 sharpen a steel rod tip in a diamond shape and gently tap into each and every existing dot. (very, very time consuming), 2 lightly sand the pressed checkering and go over the pattern with standard checkering tools. Both will require alot of time and patience.
I have a Remington model 31 shotgun and I'd like to strip the buttstock what do you recommend
Couple of things. Do the buttstock and the forend at the same time so the finish matches. Use Citristrip to remove all the old finish. Sand to 400 in stages...220,320,400. Apply several coats of Truoil waiting 2 days between coats.
@@pachuagfirearmsrestorations ty